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THE 

ANCIEiNT  CITIES  OF  THE  NEW  WORLD. 


'{;  *i 


DJiSIRI^:  CHARNAY. 


THE 


Ancient  Cities 


OF    THE 


NEW    WORLD. 


BEING 


From    1857-1882. 

BY 

DESIRE    CHARNAY. 

Mtiti)  numrrous  I-nustvattons. 

TRANSLATED  FROM  THE  FRENCH  I!Y 

J.   GONINO  AND   HELEN   S.   CONANT. 


\> 


LONDON:      CHAPMAN      AND      HALL, 

Limited. 
1887. 


CHARLES   DICKENS   AND   EVANS, 
CRYSTAL   I'ALACE   PRESS. 


TO 


MR.    PETER    LORILLARD. 


Sir, 

When  the  Minister  of  Public  Instruction  entrusted  me  with 
the  study  of  the  Ancient  American  Civilisations,  you  wished  to  become 
associated  with  my  labours  in  a  truly  munificent  spirit.  You  will 
find  in  the  following  pages  the  result  of  my  discoveries,  which,  you 
are  aware,  were  attended  with  perfect  success.  I  strove,  during  the 
progress  of  these  studies,  to  carry  out  the  programme  laid  down  by 
you  towards  the  reconstruction  of  civilisations  that  have  passed  away. 
I  think  I  have  succeeded  ;  and  I  hope  to  have  sufficiently  demonstrated 
that  these  civilisations  had  but  one  and  the  same  origin — that  they 
were  Toltec  and  comparatively  modern.  If  the  learned  world  shall 
confirm  my  theory,  and  success  crown  my  endeavours ;  if  it  shall  be 
found  that  I  have  solved  this  vexed  American  question,  so  hotly 
controverted    hitherto,  it  will   be  mainly  due  to  your   generous  support. 

Pray  accept   the  dedication    of  this  Work    as  a  token  of  my  deep 
gratitude. 

DESIRE    CHARNAY. 


TRANSLATORS'    NOTE. 


The  justification  for  having  ventured  to  correct  the  spelHng 
of  some  proper  names,  and  other  slight  emendations,  is  to  be 
found  in  the  Author's  Preface,  where  he  states  that  "  he  often 
trusted  an  uncertain  memory  for  his  quotations,  and  that  his  book 
was  written  between  two  expeditions."  There  is  more  :  it  was 
deemed  advisable,  to  suit  a  restless  and  exacting  generation,  to 
reduce  the  bulk  of  the  volume,  a  task  which  was  not  under- 
taken without  fear  and  trembling,  the  Translator  being  pain- 
fully conscious  of  shortcomings,  and  that  retrenchment  may 
have  been  where  it  should  rather  have  expanded,  and  expanded 
where  it  should  have  retrenched. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  ORIGINAL  EDITION. 


The  first  notice  upon  this  work  appeared  in  the  Noj^tk  American 
Review,  the  energetic  Editor  of  which  (Mr.  A.  Th.  Rice)  wished 
to  be  before  all  his  contemporaries  in  giving  his  subscribers  an 
aperqiL  of  my  labours.  Unfortunately  for  them  that  publication 
contained  my  impressions  of  the  moment,  just  as  I  dotted 
them  down,  which,  as  a  natural  consequence,  had  to  be  modified 
pari  passu  with  my  discoveries,  whilst  my  quotations,  owing  to 
an  uncertain  memory,  were  not  much  to  offer  readers  of  such 
intrinsic  merit,  A  second  publication  followed  in  the  Tour 
du  Monde,  but  although  better  thought  out  than  the  first,  even 
that  was  too  hastily  written  to  do  justice  to  the  magnificent 
collection  I  now  present  to  the  public,  in  which  the  entire 
design  I  had  at  heart  is  revealed ;  and  If  the  account  of  my 
discoveries,  the  issue  which  naturally  follows,  the  theory  I  wish 
to  establish,  are  still  couched  in  language  which  may  appear 
crude  and  incomplete,  I  ask  the  indulgence  of  my  readers  on 
the  plea  that  this  edition  received  the  last  touch  between  two 
expeditions.  On  the  other  hand  the  subject  is  so  vast,  that 
I  only  aimed  at  giving  a  broad  outline,  hoping  for  greater 
leisure   at  some  future  time. 

My   wish   has   been  so   to   write    as   to   be    easily  understood 
by   all ;    to   this   end    I    have  given    my  book    the    dual    form    of 


xii  Preface. 

a  journal  as  well  as  a  scientific  account :  in  it  I  recount  the 
history  of  a  civilisation  which  has  long  passed  away,  which 
is  hardly  known,  or  rather  which  has  been  systematically  mis- 
understood and  misrepresented.  My  explorations  led  me  to 
the  uplands  of  Mexico,  the  first  establishments  of  the  civilising 
race,  and  enabled  me  to  trace  the  Toltecs  step  by  step  to  their 
highest  development  in  the  various  regions  of  Central  America, 
and  not  unfrequently  to  give  a  certain  date,  to  re-establish 
historical  truth.  There  is  nothing  very  extraordinary  in  this 
reconstruction,  which,  at  first  beautifully  simple,  became  com- 
plicated with  the  countless  contradictory  accounts  which  have 
been  published  in  regard  to  it.  In  the  hands  of  the  Spanish 
padres,  origins,  however  obscure,  were  made  to  agree  with  the 
Biblical  narrative  both  in  their  ponderous  commentaries  and 
their  ridiculous  systems,  which,  starting  with  the  confusion  of 
tongues,  travelled  on  to  the  lost  tribes  of  Israel,  ending  with 
the  legend  which  ascribes  to  St.  Thomas  the  apostleship  of 
America.  Modern  historians  have  not  been  much  better  in 
this  respect,  and  the  last  century  has  produced  a  stupendous 
amount  of  the  most  extraordinary  publications,  forming  an  in- 
extricable labyrinth,  of  which  the  immense  compilation  of  Bancroft 
may  serve  as  an  example. 

The  cause  of  this  confusion  is  twofold  :  first  and  foremost, 
the  destruction  of  nearly  all  the  Indian  documents  by  the 
conquerors  ;  and  secondly,  the  small  degree  of  interest  they  felt 
for  anything  that  dated  before  their  advent.  The  first  accounts, 
such  as  Ixtlilxochitl's  for  instance,  were  written  from  narratives 
more  or  less  trustworthy,  delivered  from  memory  by  the  natives, 
in  which,  as  might  be  expected,  the  most  incoherent  traditions 
are  mixed  up  with  certain  historical  facts,  without  discrimination 
or  the  slightest  spirit  of  criticism  ;  for  science  is  but  of  yesterday, 
and  archaeology,  anthropology,  and  philology  were  as  yet  unknown. 


Preface.  xiii 

This  explains  why,  if  we  except  those  things  which  fell  under 
their  personal  observation,  later  historians  are  so  infinitely 
superior  to  the  ancient. 

Up  to  the  present  day  authentic  documents  have  been 
wanting  ;  for  without  any  fault  or  demerit  on  the  part  of  the 
explorers,  their  drawings  of  monuments,  however  carefully  done, 
could  not  cope  with  modern  photographs  and  squeezes.  On  the 
other  hand,  each  traveller  writing,  it  is  true,  from  actual  ob- 
servation, but  confining  himself  to  one  district,  could  only  describe 
a  few  of  the  principal  ruins,  so  that  his  theory  respecting  them 
was  untenable  when  compared  or  applied  to  the  ruins  of  the 
whole  country.  Thus  it  came  to  pass  that  the  various  epochs 
of  American  civilisation  were  dealt  with  as  so  many  distinct 
civilisations,  producing  the  utmost  confusion.  Whereas  a  sound 
study  of  American  civilisation  should  set  aside  preconceived 
opinions  and  commentaries,  and  confine  itself  to  its  monuments, 
original  documents,  and  such  passages  in  ancient  writers  de- 
scriptive or  explanatory  of  the  end  and  object  of  these  monuments, 
not  neglecting  the  powerful  aid  of  photography  and  squeezes  ; 
when  a  judicious  and  intelligent  comparison  of  the  relation  these 
monuments  bear  to  one  another,  must  soon  force  the  conviction 
that,  whatever  the  time  which  divides  them  or  the  difference  in 
their  details,  they  belong  to  one  and  the  same  civilisation,  and 
that  of  comparatively   recent  date — namely  the   Toltec. 

We  shall  leave  the  question  of  first  origins  as  being  unnecessary 
for  our  purpose  ;  as  also  traditions,  prehistoric  legends,  language, 
and  religion,  confining  ourselves  to  what  may  be  termed  history  ; 
that  is,  beginning  with  the  arrival  of  the  cultured  Toltecs  in 
Mexico.  We  shall  note  their  establishment  in  the  valley  of 
Tula,  their  development  on  the  high  plateaux,  the  disruption  of 
their  empire;  how  they  transmitted  their  industries  and  mechanical 
arts   to    the  people    who   succeeded   them ;    and   lasdy,    we    shall 


xiv  Preface. 

follow  them  in  their  exodus  and  find  the  traces  of  their  civi- 
lisation everywhere  on  their  passage  and  in  the  regions  of 
Central  America. 

With  regard  to  my  theory  on  the  relatively  recent  period  of 
American  civilisation  and  its  Toltec  origin,  I  am  far  from  being 
the  first  in  upholding  it,  since  Stephens  and  Humboldt  affirmed 
it  some  fifty  years  ago,  whilst  all  the  ancient  chroniclers  implied 
it.  Is  ancient  Egypt  less  interesting  because  her  MSS.  are  now 
read  and  her  origin  known  ?  Why  then  should  the  people  who 
raised  the  American  monuments  be  less  deserving  of  our  regard, 
because  they  built  them  ten  centuries  sooner  or  ten  centuries 
later  ?  Does  it  alter  the  character  of  the  monuments,  or  destroy 
an   art    unknown  to   us   hitherto  ? 

The  question  of  first  origins  has  always  seemed  to  me 
an  idle  pursuit  ;  and  if  the  evolutionist  doctrine  is  true,  a 
perfect  moral  microscope  would  be  required  to  reach  the 
remote  past  of  man,  whose  countless  generations,  scattered 
in  every  clime,  go  back  to  the  dark  period  when  our  rude 
progenitors  were  hardly  distinguished  from  the  brute  creation. 
Will  it  ever  be  possible  to  penetrate  beyond  ?  Besides,  our 
ancestors  have  nothing  in  common  with  the  autochthones  of 
America,  whom  I  firmly  believe  to  have  come  from  the  extreme 
East.  My  reasons  for  this  opinion  are  based  on  the  fact  that 
their  architecture  is  so  like  the  Japanese  as  to  seem  identical ; 
that  their  decorative  designs  resemble  the  Chinese ;  whilst  their 
customs,  habits,  sculpture,  language,  castes,  and  polity  recall 
the  Malays  both  in  Cambodia,  Annam,  and  Java.  The  word 
"  Lacandon,"  which  is  the  name  of  a  tribe  in  Central  America, 
is  also,  according  to  Dr.  Neis,  that  of  a  race  in  Indo-China, 
who  spell  it  "  Lah-Canh-dong."  F.  Gamier  says  that  "the 
Cambodians  build  their  huts  on  piles  some  six  or  nine  feet 
above  the  ground.     At  first  sight  it  might  be  attributed  to  the 


Preface.  xv 

necessity  for  protecting  themselves  from  inundations  ;  but  as 
this  mode  of  construction  is  found  in  places  where  no  such  danger 
exists,  it  must  be  ascribed  to  the  instinct  of  a  pm^ticular  race  " 
(it  is  the  instinct  of  the  Toltecs  which  caused  them  to  erect  their 
edifices  on  esplanades  and  pyramids)  ;  and  in  his  description 
of  the  Khmer  monuments  at  Angor-Tom  and  Angor-Wat  he 
adds :  "  They  are  placed  on  pyramids  of  three  to  five  stories 
high,"  etc.  The  analogy  is  also  seen  in  the  ornamentation  of 
the  buildings,  where  the  human  figure  is  rudely  treated,  whilst 
great  care  is*  observable  in  the  other  decorative  designs,  a  point 
which  always  struck  us  in  American  sculpture.  It  should  also 
be  remarked  that  bricks  covered  with  plaster,  stucco  decoration, 
cemented  floors,  roads,  and  courtyards  are  common  to  the  Malays 
and  the  Americans ;  whilst  the  corbel  vault  is  found  in  Java, 
Cambodia,  and  America.  Again,  some  temples  at  Lawoe,  in 
Java,  are  built  on  pyramids,  having  a  staircase  on  the  slope 
leading  to  the  edifice,  like  those  of  the  Toltecs.  This  resemblance 
has  struck  every  traveller,  and  is  the  more  important  that  these 
monuments  only  date  from  the  fourteenth  or  fifteenth  century, 
and  are  far  removed  from  those  edifices  which  were  introduced 
in  Java  by  the  followers  of  Buddha  and  Brahma  ;  but  the  destruc- 
tion of  Indian  temples  and  Indian  beliefs  was  succeeded  by 
an  architectural  atavism,  a  return  to  a  Malay  primitive  type, 
evidenced  by  the  monuments  at  Lawoe,  which  I  visited  in  1878, 
a   fact   which   I    think  of  vital   importance. 

Castes  are  purely  Asiatic  and  unknown  among  the  Red 
Indians,  but  they  existed  with  the  Toltecs,  where  the  common- 
wealth was  divided  into  distinct  classes  of  priests,  warriors, 
merchants,  and  tillers  of  the  soil  ;  whilst  land  was  held  in 
common,  and  a  feudal  system  is  apparent  with  both  the  Toltecs 
and  Malays.  Two  languages  are  used  in  Java  and  Cambodia; 
one    to    address   superiors,   the   other  for   the  vulgar.     This   was 


xvi  Preface. 

also  the  case  with  the  Toltecs,  and  gave  rise  to  two  different 
written  languages.  Finally,  the  worship  of  serpents  as  gods 
of  wisdom,  like  Quetzalcoatl,  is  found  in  India,  Greece,  China, 
Japan,  and  particularly  in  Cambodia  and  Java.  To  us  these 
points  of  resemblance  are  more  than  mere  coincidence ;  something 
better  than  fortuitous  analogies  :  they  seem  to  point  to  a  vast 
and  novel  field  for  the  investigation  of  archaeologists. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   I. 

PAGE 

VERA    CRUZ    AND    PUEBLA I 

My  former  Mission — The  present  one — Why  called  Franco-American 
— Vera  Cruz — Railway  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico — Warm  Region — 
Temperate  Region  —  Cordova  —  Orizaba  —  Maltrata  —  Cold  Region — 
Esperanza — Puebla  and  Tlascala— The  Old  Route. 


CHAPTER   H. 

MEXICO 17 

Her  New  Appearance— Moral  Transformation— Public  Walks  and 
Squares— Suburbs — Railway— Monuments— Cathedral— S.  Domingo  — 
S.  Francisco— La  Merced— Hats  a  la  S.  Basilio— Suppression  of 
Religious  Orders. 

CHAPTER    HI. 

THE   INDIANS 35 

El  Salto  del  Agua  — Netzahualcoyotl— Noche  Triste— Historical 
Jottings  —  Chapultepec  —  Indians —  Chinampas— Legends — Anecdote 
—Mexican  Museum— Tizoc's  Stone,  or  Gladiator's  Stone— Yoke  and 
Sacrificial  Stone  — Holy  War  —  Religious  Cannibalism —American 
Copper. 


xvui  Contents. 


CHAPTER   IV. 

PAGE 

TULA 75 

Journey  to  Tula — The  Toltecs — Ancient  Historians — Origins — 
Peregrinations  —  Foundation  of  Tula  —  Toltec  Religion  —  Chief 
Deities — Art — Industry — Measurement  of  Time — The  Word  Calli — 
Architecture. 

CHAPTER   V. 

TULA.      PYRAMID   OF    THE    SUN.      ANTIQUITIES    OF    TULA         .  .  93 

Caryatides  —  Columns  —  Capitals  —  Carved  Shell  —  Tennis-ring  — 
Tlachtli— Ancient  Bas-reliefs— Toltecs  Portrayed — Historical  Jottings 
—The  Temple  of  the  Frog— Indian  Vault— The  Plaza— El  Cerro  del 
Tesoro. 

CHAPTER   VI. 

PALPAN    AND    THE   TOLTECS .  .  IO4 

Aspect  of  the  Hill— Mogotes — The  Toltecs  and  their  Building 
Propensities — A  Toltec  House — Antiquities — Fragments — Malacaies — 
Toltec  Palace — Toltec  Organisation — Dress — Customs — Education — 
Marriage — Orders  of  Knighthood — Philosophy — Religion — Future  Life 
— Pulque — End  of  the  Toltec  Empire — Emigration. 

CHAPTER   VII. 

TEOTIIIUACAN 1 28 

Quotations— Pre-Toltec  Civilisation— Egyptian  and  Teotihuacan 
Pyramids  Compared — General  Aspect  of  the  Pyramids — Cement  Coat- 
ings—  Tlateles  and  Pyramids — Idols  and  Masks — Description  by 
Torquemada — S.  Martins  Village — Pulque  and  Mezcal — S.  Juan  of 
Teotiiuiacan. 

CHAPTER   VHI. 
TEOTIHUACAN   {continued) 141 

Ruins  of  a  Teotihuacan  Palace— Cemetery- -Bull-Fighting — Pits 
and  Quarries- Excavations— A  Toltec  Palace— Ants— Ancient  Tombs 

— Sepulchral  Stone. 


Contents.  xix 


CHAPTER   IX. 

PACE 

MOUNTAIN    EXPLORATION 1 52 

Travelling  Companions — S.  Lazarus  Station— S.  Anita — Ayotla — 
Tlalmanalco — Tenango  del  Aire — Amecameca— A  Badly  Lighted  Town 
— Rateros — Monte-Sacro — Volcaneros. 


CHAPTER   X. 

TENENEPANCO    AND    NAHUALAC    CEMETERIES  .  .  .  .  163 

The  Rancho  of  TIamacas — A  Funeral  Station — Great  Excitement — 
Ascent  —  Search — Tenenepanco  —  Camping — Tlacualero  —  Excavations 
— Bodily  Remains — Toys — A  Beautiful  Cup — A  Well-preserved  Skull 
— Mispayantla  Grotto— Amecameca — A  Tumulus  Explored — Expedi- 
tion to  Iztaccihuatl — Nahualac — A  Second  Cemetery. 


CHAPTER   XI. 

BELLOTE 183 

Return  to  Vera  Cruz — Toltec  Cities — Quotations  regarding  Ancient 
Cities — Rio  Tabasco  at  Frontera — S.  Juan  Bautista — Rio  Gonzalez  — 
Canoas— Lagoons — Bellote  Islands — Kjcekkenmccdmgs — Temples  at 
Bellote— Chronological  and  Ornamental  Slabs — Las  Dos  Bocas — 
Cortez — Rio  Seco — Paraiso. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

COMALCALCO 1 94 

Description  of  Comalcalco — Fonda — Manners — Climate — Masks  and 

Figures — Ruins — El  Blasillo — Old  Palaces  Visited — Bricks  and  Bridges 

— Cemented    Roads — Great    Pyramid    and    its    Monuments — Palace 

Described  —  Vases  and  Jicaras  —  Tecomates  —  Towers  —  Bas-reliefs  — 

Small  Pyramids  and  Temples — Reflexions — Disappearance  of  Indian 

Populations — Return  to  S.  Juan — Don  Candido — El  Carmen — A  Rich 

Wood-cutter. 

b  2 


XX  Contents. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

PAGE 

LAS    PLAYAS    AND    PALENQUE 211 

From  S.  Juan  to  Jonuta — S.  Carlos— Indians  and  Alligators— Las 
Playas  and  Catasaja — Stone  Cross — Rancho  at  Pulente — Palenque — 
The  Two  Slabs  in  the  Temple  of  the  Cross — First  Engravings— Acala 
and  Palenque  from  Cortez— Letter  to  the  King— Palenque  and  Ocosingo 
mentioned  by  Juarros  —  Explorations  —  The  Palace  —  Facade  and 
Pyramids— Ornamentation  on  the  Eastern  Facade — An  Old  Relief 
Brought  to  Light— Palenque  Artists  and  their  Mode  of  Working — 
^Medallions  and  Inner  Passage — Reliefs  in  the  Main  Court — Apart- 
ments and  Decorations— Inner  Wing  and  Restoration— Western  Fa9ade 
— Palace  Tower. 

CHAPTER   XIV. 

PALENQUE.      TEMPLES 245 

Palenque  a  Holy  City — Bas-reliefs — Rain  and  Fever — A  Grateful 
Cook — Temple  of  Inscriptions — Temple  of  the  Sun— Temple  of  the 
Cross  No.  I — Temple  of  the  Cross  No.  2 — Altars — Mouldings  and 
Photographs — Fire — Explorations — Fallen  Houses— The  Age  of  Trees 
in  Connection  with  the  Ruins— Recapitulation. 

CHAPTER   XV. 

YUCATAN,    MERIUA,    AND    THE   MAYA    RACE 262 

Early  Account  of  Yucatan — First  Explorers :  F.  Hernandez  de 
Cordova,  Juan  de  Grijalva— Cortez— Railroad— Ilenequen  Estate— 
Merida— Historical  Jottings -Destruction  of  all  the  Documents  by  the 
Historian  Landa — Municipal  Palace— Cathedral — The  Conqueror's 
House— Private  Houses— Market  Place— Maya  Race— Types— Manners 
and  Customs  of  the  Mayas— Deformation  and  Tattooing — Meztizas — 
Dwellings— Suburbs. 

CHAPTER   XVI. 

AK£   AND    IZAMAI 288 

Departure— A  Family  I'Lxploration  — "  Volan  coche  " — Tixpcnal  and 
Tixkokob—Cenotc— Ruins  of  Akd — Historical  Rectification— Small 
Pyramid — Tlachtli— A  Large  Gallery — Explorations— A  Strange  Theory 
—Picotd— Architecture  of  Yucatan  at  Different  Epochs. 


Contents.  xxi 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

PAGE 

IZAMAL   EN    ROUTE   FOR    CHICIIEN 303 

Expedition  to  Izamal  and  Chichen-Itza— Brigands— Cacalchen— 
Market  Place— Great  Pyramid— Small  Pyramid  and  Colossal  Decorative 
Figures— Cemented  Roads— The  Convent  of  the  Virgin  at  Izamal— A 
Precarious  Telegraph — Tunicas — Garrison— Quintana- Roo — An  Old 
Acquaintance— Citas— A  Fortified  Church— Troops— Opening  a  Path 
— Native  Entertainment— Arrival  at  Pistd 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 

CHICHEN-ITZA 323 

Chichen-Itza — El  Castillo — General  Survey — A  Maya  City — Aguilar 
— Historical  Jottings — Montejo's  Expedition — Historians — Their  Con- 
tradictions —  Chichen  Deserted  —  The  Conqueror's  Retreat  —  The 
Nunnery — Impressions  and  Photographs — Terrestrial  Haloes — An  Un- 
expected Visitor— Electric  Telegraph  at  Akab-Sib— Prison— Caracol— 
Cenot^s — Ruined  Temples — The  Temple  of  the  Sacred  Cenotd — Tennis- 
Court — Monuments  Described — Portico — Paintings— Low-reliefs — New 
Analogy — The  Tlalocs  of  Chichen  and  of  the  Uplands — Market-place 
— End  of  Our  Labours — Col.  Triconis. 

CHAPTER   XIX. 

KABAH   AND    UXMAL 37 1 

Departure  for  Ticul — Uayalceh — Mucuiche — Sacalun — An  Old 
Souvenir — Ticul — Excavations  at  S.  Francisco — Failure— Yucatec  Vases 
— Entertainment  at  the  Hacienda  of  Yokat — A  Sermon  in  Maya — 
Hacienda  of  Santa  Anna — Important  Remains — The  Ruins  of  Kabah — 
Monuments  Surveyed — First  Palace — Ornamental  Wall — Cisterns — 
Inner  Apartments — Second  Palace — Great  Pyramid— Ancient  Writers 
Quoted — Stephens'  Drawings. 

CHAPTER   XX. 

UXMAL 391 

From  Kabah  to  Santa  Helena — A  Maya  Village — Uxmal — Hacienda 
— The  Governor's  Palace — Cisterns  and  Reservoirs — The  Nunnery  and 
the  Dwarf's  House— Legend — General  View—"  Cerro  de  los  Sacrificios  " 
— Don  Peon's  Charter — Stephens' Plan  and  Measurements— Friederichs- 
thal — Conclusion — Our  Return. 


xxii  Contents. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

PAGE 

CAMPECHE   AND    TENOSIQUE 4^4 

From  Progreso  to  Campeche— Incidents  on  Board— Carmen— Old 
Acquaintances  —  Indian  Guns  —  Frontera  —  The  Grijalva  —  Tabasco 
Pottery— Waiting— Carnival  at  Frontera— Julian's  Success— Departure 
—Jonuta—Monte-Cristo— Difficulties  at  the  Custom  House— Cabecera 
—Tenosique— Reminiscences— Monteros— The  Lacandones— Our  Mules 
'  Come— The  Usumacinta— Sea  Fish— Setting  out  for  the  Ruins— Route 
—Forest  Camping— Second  Day— Traces  of  Monuments— Mule  and 
Horse  Lost  — Cortez  —  Arroyo  Yalchilan  —  Provisions  left  Behind  — 
Crossing  the  Cordillera— An  Old  Montero— Traces  of  Lacandones— 
Yalchilan  Pass. 


CHAPTER   XXH. 

LORILLARD    TOWN      .  .  . 43^ 

Paso  Yalchilan— Another  Mule  Lost— An  Anxious  Night— A  Wild 
Boar— Encampment— Upper  Usumacinta— No  Canoes— A  Difficulty- 
Deliverance— Surprise— A  Mysterious  Traveller— A  Canoe— Fever- 
Down  Stream— A  Votive  Pillar— Ruins— I  Meet  with  a  Stranger- 
General  View  of  Lorillard — A  Reminiscence— Stephens'  "  Phantom 
City" — Extent  of  the  Ruins  Unknown— Temple— Idol— P'ortress— Our 
Dwelling  Palace— Great  Pyramid— Second  Temple -Stone  Lintels  and 
Two  Kinds  of  Inscriptions— Our  Return— Lacandones. 


CHAPTER   XXni. 

PETEN,    TAYASAL,    TIKAL,    AND    COPAN 459 

Departure  from  Pcten— The  River— The  Sierra— Sacluc  or  Libertad 
—Cortez'  Route— Marzillo's  Story— Flores— Ancient  Tayasal— Conquest 
of  Peten— Various  Expeditions— The  Town  Captured— The  Inhabitants 
Disappear— Monuments  Described— Tikal— Early  Explorers— Temples 
— Bas-reliefs  on  Wood — Retrospection— Bifurcation  of  the  Toltec  Column 
at  Tikal — Tikal — Toltecs  in  Guatemala — Coban — Demolition  of  Copan 
— (^uetzalcoatl- Transformation  of  Stone  Altar  Bas-reliefs  into  Mono- 
lith Idols  — End  of  an  Art  Epoch— Map  of  Toltec  Migrations. 


Contents.  xxiii 


CHAPTER   XXIV. 

PAGE 

TUMBALA.      S.    CRISTOBAL.      MITLA 482 

Return  to  Tenosiquc— S.  Domingo  del  Palenque  Revisited — 
Departure  for  S.  Cristobal — First  Halt — No  Tamenes— Setting  out 
alone  for  Nopa — Bad  Roads— No  Food— Monkeys — Three  Days  Wait- 
ing at  S.  Pedro— The  Cah7(^o—Hos\.\\e  Attitude  of  the  Natives — The 
Porters  Arrive— They  make  off  in  the  Night— From  S.  Pedro  to  Tumbala 
— Two  Nights  in  the  Forest — Tumbala — The  Cura — Jajalun— Chilon — 
Citala — A  Dominican  Friar — Cankuk — Tenejapa — S.  Cristobal — Valley 
of  Chiapas— Tuxtla — Santa  Lucia — Marhnba — Tehuantepec — Totolapa 
— Oaxaca— Santa  Maria  del  Tule — Ruins  of  Mitla. 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


A  VIEW   OF   VERA   CRUZ   AND   THE   FORT   OF   SAN   JUAN   OF    ULLOA 
VIEW   OF    PUEBLA,   TAKEN    FROM   ALTO 
TWO   PANORAMAS   OF    PUEBLA      . 
CHURCH   OF  SAN    DOMINGO 

EL   SAGRARIO 

CLOISTER   OF   THE   CONVENT   OF    LA   MERCED 

MEXICAN    MONKS 

EL   SALTO   DEL   AQUA   (FOUNTAIN) 

TREE   OF   THE   NOCHE    TRISTE,    AT    POPOTLAN 

CHAPULTEPEC        

CHARCOAL   AND   BATTEAS   VENDORS    . 

MEXICAN    WATER-CARRIER  .... 

MEXICAN   TORTILLERA   AND   STRAW   MAT   SELLERS 

COURT   IN   THE    MEXICO    MUSEUM 

TEOYAOMIQUI,   GOD   OF    DEATH   AND   WAR 

THE   STONE   OF   THE    SUN,   OR   OF   TIZOC,   MEXICO   MUSEUM 

THE   TEMALACATL,   OR    GLADIATORIAL    STONE  (FROM    RAMIREZ  MS. 

WRONG   AND   RIGHT   SACRIFICIAL   COLLARS  .... 

HUMAN   SACRIFICES 

ANCIENT    INDIAN    POTTERY 


PAGE 

3 
9 

13 
17 

27 

32 

34 
35 
38 
44 
45 
49 
51 
57 
60 
61 

63 
6S 
74 
75 


XXVI 


List  of  Illustrations. 


PAGE 

extracting  pulque 17 

toltec  pottery        82 

tlaloc,  from  a  piece  of  pottery 83 

toltec  crosses ^'^ 

quetzalcoatl,  under  his  best-known  attributes  ...  8/ 

cotton  spinning 89 

calli,  in  profile 9 1 

capital,  found  at  tula 92 

the  pyramid  of  the  sun,  tula 93 

toltec  caryatid,  tula 94 

parts  of  a  column,  tula 95 

tennis-ring,  tula 95 

warrior's  profile,  found  at  tula 97 

toltec  bas-reliefs 99 

young  girls  of  tula 102 

ruins  of  a  toltec  house io4 

GROUND     PLAN    OF    FIRST    TOLTEC    HOUSE    UNEARTHED    AT    TULA 

(FROM    LEMAIRE) IO5 

PLAN    OF   THE   HILL   AT    TULA    (ANCIENT   PALPAN)     .           .           .           .  I06 

GROUND  PLAN  OF  TOLTEC  PALACE  UNEARTHED  AT  TULA  (LEMAIRE)  TO/ 

VIEW   OF   RUINED   TOLTEC    PALACE I09 

FEMALE     DANCERS     AND     TECUHTLIS     (FROM     RAMIREZ     MS.     AND 

FATHER  DURAN)    II4 

YOUNG   TOLTEC   (iIRL  (FROM   MODERN    INDIAN   TYPES   AND  FATHER 

DURAN'S   "HIST.   DE   LAS   INDIAS  ") II7 

INDIAN      KING     (DRAWN      FROM     CLAVIGERO,      RAMIREZ     MS.     AND 

FATHER   DURAN)    I23 

MURAL   PAINTING   OF   TOLTEC   HOUSE 12/ 

PYRAMIDS   OF   SUN    AND   MOON     TEOTIHUACAN 128 


List  of  Illustrations. 


xxvii 


TERRA-COTTA   MASKS    AND    HEADS   FOUND   AT   TEOTIHUACAN 

ROAD   TO   S.    MARTIN 

CHURCH    OF   S.   JUAN,   TEOTIHUACAN. 

MILE-STONE,   OR   VOTIVE   COLUMN,   TEOTIHUACAN      . 

RUINS   OF   A   PALACE,   TEOTIHUACAN  .... 

GROUND   PLAN    OF    PRINCIPAL   RUINS    OF   TEOTIHUACAN 

GROUND   PLAN    OF   TOLTEC   PALACE   AT   TEOTIHUACAN 

VOTIVE    STONES,   TEOTIHUACAN  . 

TOLTEC   SEPULCHRAL   STONE,   TEOTIHUACAN 

RUINS   OF    TLALMANALCO   . 

SANTA   ANITA   CANAL  .... 

AMECAMECA 

HACIENDA   OF    TOMACOCO    . 

VOLCANEROS    (MINERS) 

BURIAL-GROUND,   TENENEPANCO 

POPOCATEPETL   AND    PICO   DEL   FRAILE 

VASES   FOUND   AT   TENENEPANCO 

CARICATURE   OF   TECUHTLI-KNIGHT    (KNIGHT   OF   THE    EAGLE) 

BOTTOM   OF   ENAMELLED   CUP   FOUND   IN   THE   BURIAL-GROUND 

CARTS,   CHILDREN'S   TOYS 

VASES   OF   BURIAL-GROUND    UNEARTHED   AT    NAHUALAC 

POND   OF   NAHUALAC 

QUAY   OF   S.  JUAN   BAUTISTA 
CANOA   (boat)    of   S.   JUAN  .... 
RANCHO   AT   BELLOTE  .... 

TEMPLE   BAS-RELIEF,   BELLOTE    . 
TERRA-COTTA   MASK,   FOUND   AT   BELLOTE, 
VIRGIN    FOREST    NEAR   COMALCALCO    . 
PLAN    OF   GREAT   PYRAMID   AT   COMALCALCO 


PAGE 

135 

137 

140 

141 

143 

149 

160 
162 
163 
165 
169 

i73 
175 

177 
182 

183 
185 
187 
189 

193 
194 
197 


XXVlll 


List  of  Illustrations. 


PAGE 

BAYS   OF    RUINED   PALACE,   COMALCALCO     .           .           .           .           .           .  I98 

SECTION    OF   RUINS   AT   COMALCALCO 199 

RUINS   OF   PALACE 20I 

ORNAMENTATION  OF  SOUTH-EAST  TOWER,  COMALCALCO  .  204 
REMAINS   OF   TOWER   NO.    2,   AND    ENTRANCE    OF    SUBTERRANEOUS 

HALL 205 

BAS-RELIEF   OF   WEST   TOWER,   COMALCALCO 2IO 

S.   DOMINGO   DEL   PALENQUE 211 

MOULDINGS   IN   THE   TEMPLE   OF   THE   CROSS    NO.    I  .  .  -215 

SCULPTURED   STONES,   TEMPLE   OF   THE   CROSS    NO.    I          .           .           .  21/ 

OUR  KITCHEN  AT  PALENQUE,  IN  ONE  OF  THE  CORRIDORS  .  .  223 
PLAN   OF    PALACE  AT    PALENQUE    (NORTH   SIDE)          .           .           .           .225 

BASEMENT   OF    PYRAMID   IN   THE    PALACE   OF   PALENQUE  .           .           .  226 

THE   PALACE,   OUTER   FACADE,    PALENQUE 22/ 

SCULPTURED   FIGURE   ON    PILLAR 23O 

MEDALLION    IN    PASSAGE   OF   EAST   Vv^ING   OF   THE    PALACE         ,           .  23I 

HUGE   BAS-RELIEFS   IN   THE   PALACE   COURT,    PALENQUE  .           .           .  232 

SMALL  BUILDING  TO  THE  SOUTH  OF  THE  PALACE  COURT  .  .  233 
FRAGMENT    OF    DECORATION   SHAPED   LIKE   A   TAU,   SURROUNDING 

NICHES   IN  THE  CORRIDORS  AND  APARTMENTS  OF   THE  PALACE  235 

FRIEZE   DECORATION   OF   BUILDING   SOUTH   OF   THE   COURT       .           .  235 

FRAGMENT  OF   DECORATION   OVER  A   DOOR 235 

RESTORATION   OF   INNER   WING   OF   THE   PALACE        ....  237 

EASTERN    FACADE   OF   INNER   WING   OF   THE    PALACE,    PALENQUE     .  239 

TOWER   IN   THE   PALACE 24I 

TUV:    PALACE,   WESTERN   FACADE 243 

MEDALLION    IN    PASSAGE   OF    INNER   WING 244 

TEMPLE   OF   INSCRIPTION.S,    PALENQUE 245 

TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN,    PALENQUE 250 


List  of  Illustrations. 


XXIX 


PAGF, 
.        251 

OF  PALENQUE      253 

NO.    2      .  .      255 


JAPANESE   TEMPLE         

SCULPTURED  SLABS  OF  SANCTUARY,  IN  THE  TEMPLES 
SCULPTURED   SLABS   IN    THE   TEMPLE   OF   THE   CROSS 

RUINS   TO   THE    NORTH   OF   THE    PALACE 

STAIRCASE   INSCRIPTIONS 261 

MUNICIPAL   PALACE   AND   SQUARE,    MERIDA 262 

MAP 264 

PANORAMIC   VIEW   OF    MERIDA 2^7 

MONTEJO'S   HOUSE,    MERIDA 2/2 

CATHEDRAL 273 

DON   ALVARO   PEON'S    HOUSE 276 

FRUIT   SELLERS 277 

MAYA   TYPES 279 

MEZTIZOS'   HOUSE 283 

A   STREET    IN    MERIDA 285 

HACIENDA   OF   ASCORRA 287 

VOLAN   COCHfi 288 

PLAN   OF   THE   RUINS   OF   AK£ 294 

SMALL   PYRAMID   OF   AKE 295 

GREAT    PYRAMID   AND   GALLERY   OF   AK£ 297 

PILLARS   OF   THE   GREAT   GALLERY   OF   AKE 299 

CEMENTED    BAS-RELIEF    OF   AKfi 302 

SQUARE  OF   TUNKAS 303 

GREAT   PYRAMID,   KINICH-KAKMO,    AT    IZAMAL 307 

SOUTH  SIDE  OF  HUNPICTOK  PYRAMID  AT  IZAMAL  (AFTER  STEPHENS)  309 

COLOSSAL   HEAD   FORMING   BASEMENT   OF   PYRAMID   AT    IZAMAL       .  3II 

MARKET   PLACE   OF   IZAMAL 3^3 

cenotE  of  XCOLAC ^^7 

CHURCH   AND   SQUARE,   CITAS 322 


XXX 


List  of  Illustrations. 


EL   CASTILLO   OF   CHICHEN-ITZA 

ORNAMENTATION      OF     THE     UPPER     STORY     OF     THE     NUNNERY, 

CHICHEN-ITZA 

MAIN    FACADE   OF   THE   NUNNERY   OF   CHICHEN-ITZA 
NORTHERN   FACADE   OF   THE   NUNNERY   OF   CHICHEN-ITZA 
LEFT   WING   OF   THE   NUNNERY   OF   CHICHEN-ITZA    . 
FACADE   OF   EL   CASTILLO,   CHICHEN-ITZA  . 
TOLTEC   COLUMN   IN    THE   CASTILLO  .... 

TOLTEC   COLUMN   AT   TULA 

YUCATEC   CAPITAL    AT    CHICHEN-ITZA 

DOOR-POSTS   IN    THE   CASTILLO,   CHICHEN-ITZA 

BAS-RELIEFS   FROM   PILLARS   OF    SANCTUARY   OF   CHICHEN-ITZA 

BAS-RELIEFS   WITH   INSCRIPTIONS,   AKAB-SIB    PALACE   AT   CPIICHEN- 

ITZA 

CHICHAN-CHOB,   PRISON    OF   CHICHEN-ITZA  .... 

SACRED   CENOTfi   OF   CHICHEN-ITZA    ...... 

SMALL   TEMPLE   IN    THE   TENNIS-COURT   OF   CHICHEN-ITZA       . 

BAS-RELIEF   IN    HALL   OF   TENNIS-COURT   OF   CHICHEN-ITZA      . 

TIGERS'    BAS-RELIEFS  ON  PORTION  OF   TENNIS-COURT  OF   CHICHEN- 
ITZA         

DOOR-POSTS  OF   HALL   IN   THE   TENNIS-COURT   OF  CHICHEN-ITZA 

TIZOC'S   STONE,    IN    MEXICO 

STATUE   OF   TLALOC   FOUND   AT   CHICIIEN-ITZA 

STATUE   OF   TLALOC   OF   TLASCALA    (IN    THE   MUSEUM   OF   MEXICO) 

SECOND   PALACE  OF   KABAH  

YUCATEC  AND   TEOTIHUACAN   VASES 

TRIUMPHAL  ARCH   OF   KABAII    (FROM   STEPHENS)        . 

RUINS   OF   FIRST   PALACE   OF   KABAII 

SHOWING  STEPS   AND   INTERIOR   OF   FIRST   PALACE   OF   KABAII 


PAGE 

334 

335 

338 

339 

342 

343 

343 

344 

345 

347 

349 

351 

355 

359 
362 

363 

364 
365 
366 

3^7 
37^ 
37S 
379 
381 
383 


List  of  Illustrations. 


XXXI 


NORTH-WEST   SIDE   OF   PYRAMID   OF    KABAH 

BAS-RELIEFS   AT   KABAII    (FROM    STEPHENS) 

HACIENDA   OF   UXMAL  ..... 

THE   governor's   PALACE,    UXMAL      . 

PORTION    OF   THE   GOVERNOR'S    PALACE,   UXMAL 

PLAN   OF    NUNNERY   OF    UXMAL   (FROM   STEPHENS) 

NORTH   WING   FACADE   OF   THE    NUNNERY   OF    UXMAL 

SHOWING   DETAILS  OF  EASTERN  FACADE  OF   THE  NUNNERY,  U 

THE   dwarf's   house   OF    UXMAL  ... 

GENERAL  VIEW   OF   THE   RUINS   OF    UXMAL 

INSCRIPTION   OF   THE   GOVERNOR'S   PALACE,   UXMAL 

CAMPECHE 

HOTEL   GRIJALVA   AT   FRONTERA 
TERRA-COTTA   IDOLS   OF   TABASCO 

A   BIT   OF   TENOSIQUfi 

THE   USUMACINTA   AT   PASO   YALCHILAN      . 

DON    PEPE   MORA 

ENCAMPMENT   AT   PASO   YALCHILAN    . 
LACANDON   CHIEF   AND   LACANDON    TYPES 
VOTIVE   PILE   OF   LORILLARD         .... 
MAP   TAKEN   FROM   THE   GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY 
PLAN   OF   FIRST   TEMPLE   AT    LORILLARD    . 
IDOL   IN    LACANDON    TEMPLE 
FIRST   TEMPLE   AT   LORILLARD   CITY  . 
LACANDON   VASES   FOUND   AT    LORILLARD   CITY 
MODEL   OF   ANCIENT   TEMPLE       . 

PLAN    OF   PALACE   WE   INHABITED   AT   LORILLARD 
SECOND   TEMPLE   OF   LORILLARD 
SCULPTURED    LINTEL   AT    LORILLARD 


XMAL 


38S 

395 
398 
399 
400 
402 

403 
407 

413 

415 
419 
421 

423 
428 
429 
430 
433 
435 
437 
439 
440 
441 
443 
445 
446 
448 

449 


XXXll 


List  of  Illustrations. 


STONE   LINTEL,   SACRIFICE   TO   CUKULCAN,    LORILLARD   CITY 
SCULPTURED   LINTEL    AT    LORILLARD  .... 

LIBERTAD 

FLORES,  LAKE  OF  PETEN 

ALTAR  PANEL  IN  THE  TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN  OF  TIKAL 
TEMPLE  AND  STEL^  OF  TIKAL  (FROM  ALFRED  MAUDSLAY) 

QUETZALCOATL  AT  COPAN 

IDOLS  OF  COPAN  (FROM  STEPHENS)  . 
MONOLITH  IDOL  OF  COPAN  (FROM  STEPHENS) 
GUATEMALTO-TOLTEC  ALTAR  OF  COPAN  (STEPHENS 
OTHER  SIDE  OF  SAME  ALTAR   .... 
ALTAR  INSCRIPTION  OF  COPAN  .... 
INSCRIPTION  OF  LORILLARD  CITY 
STELA  OF  TIKAL  (FROM  A.  MAUDSLAY)   . 
INTERIOR  OF  AN  APARTMENT  IN  THE  GRAND  PALACE  OF  MITLA- 
OAXACA     

SNUFF-BOX  TORTOISE  {Cinostemou  Leucostomum) 

TEHUANTEPEC   WOMEN 

PLAN   OF   CHIEF   PALACE   OF   MITLA    . 

SECTION    OF   PRINCIPAL   HALL   OF   THE   PALACE 

GREAT   HALL   RESTORED    (MITLA) 

GENERAL  VIEW  OF   RUINS   OF    MITLA 

GREAT   PALACE   OF   MITLA-OAXACA      . 

SOUTH   SIDE   OF   FOURTH   PALACE   OF   MITLA      . 

TERRA-COTTA    MASK   FOUND   AT   MITLA       . 


PAGE 

451 
457 

459 

465 

467 
469 
470 

471 
476 

477 
477 
479 
479 
4S0 

482 
484 

497 
502 

503 
503 
505 
509 
511 
512 


All.  .QUI  CMH3  ol  Uip  Ni-w  Wm  Ic 


1.1.1  .■n.llAilnm^i-  I:,.. 


• 


THE  ANCIENT  CITIES 

OF    THE    NEW   WORLD. 


CHAPTER    I. 

VERA    CRUZ    AND    PUEBLA. 

My  former  Mission — The  present  one — Why  called  Franco-American — Vera 
Cruz — Railway  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico — Warm  Region — Temperate 
Region — Cordova — Orizaba — Maltrata  —  Cold  Region — Esperanza — Puebla 
and  TIascala — The  Old  Route. 

When  I  started  for  Mexico  in  1880,  I  already  knew  something 
of  the  country,  having,  in  the  year  1857,  been  sent  out  as  delegate 
for  my  Government  to  explore  parts  of  it.  At  that  time  I  was 
rich  in  hopes  and  full  of  grand  intentions,  but  poor  in  knowledge 
and  light  of  purse,  and  I  soon  learnt  that  the  work  I  had  under- 
taken was  of  so  difficult  and  complicated  a  character,  that  the 
whole  thing  was  beyond  my  powers ;  and,  finding  that  from 
want  both  of  money  and  of  technical  knowledge  I  was  unable 
to  carry  out  the  great  schemes  I  had  imagined,  I  contented 
myself  with  simply  photographing  some  of  the  monuments  as 
I  visited  them,  without  even  venturing  to  add  any  comment 
thereto.  Now  all  was  different.  Better  prepared  in  every  way  : 
with  additional  knowledge,  backed  by  influential  supporters,  and 
with  the   aid  of  numerous  documents  which    I    had    collected,    I 

B 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


felt    I    might   reasonably   hope   to   be    able   to    throw   some    light 
on  one  of  the   most  obscure  corners  of  the  history  of  man. 

But  at  the  very  moment  when  the  Minister  of  Public 
Instruction,  on  the  advice  of  the  Commission  for  Missions  and 
Travels,  was  again  entrusting  me  with  the  exploration  of  Mexico, 
that  I  might  study  its  monuments,  it  so  chanced  that  a  rich 
American,  Mr.  Lorillard,  of  New  York,  was  also  minded  to  fit 
out  a  scientific  expedition  for  the  same  purpose,  and  that  I  was 
the  man  he  had  fixed  upon  to  direct  it.  The  latter  had  already 
set  apart  a  considerable  sum  of  money  for  the  expedition,  so  that 
I  found  myself  placed  in  a  somewhat  delicate  position,  for,  by 
refusing  Mr.  Lorillard,  I  should  have  risked  a  dangerous  com- 
petition in  the  very  country  and  the  very  places  I  was  to 
explore ;  and,  by  accepting,  I  should  have  seemed  to  give  up 
my  nationality,  and  to  deprive  my  own  country  of  many  precious 
documents  and  interesting  collections.  I  felt  myself,  therefore, 
fortunate  in  being  able  to  combine  the  two  rival  expeditions, 
and,  under  the  name  of  a  Franco- American  Mission,  to  carry 
out  the  important  work,  and  in  this  I  was  assisted  by  the 
unparalleled  generosity  of  Mr.  Lorillard,  who  gave  up  to  France 
all  the  fruits  of  my  labour,  my  researches,  and  my  discoveries. 
It  was  under  such  circumstances  that  1  started  on  the  26th  of 
March,  1880,  and  taking  New  York  on  my  way,  to  pay  my 
respects  to  my  generous  sleeping-partner,  I  reached  Vera  Cruz 
at  the  end  of  April. 

The  aspect  of  Vera  Cruz,  seen  from  the  sea,  is  anything  but 
pretty,  consisting  of  a  monotonous  line  of  houses,  blackened  by 
heavy  rain  and  the  driving  Norte.  Built  on  a  sandy  shore, 
surrounded  by  barren  hills  stripped  of  all  vegetation,  and  low- 
lying  lagoons,  Vera  Cruz  may  safely  be  pronounced  the  most 
unhealthy  place  in  Mexico.  Yellow  fever  is  never  absent  from 
its  shores,   and  with  every  new  batch   of  immigrants  it   becomes 


Vera  Cruz  and  Puep.la. 


epidemic  and  violent  in  the  extreme,  fastening  on  the  new- 
comers with  unusual  severity.  We  learnt  that  to  our  cost,  at 
the  time  of  the  war  of  intervention,  when  our  soldiers  were 
literally  decimated  by  this  fearful  scourge.  It  became  necessary 
to  replace  the  white  troops  by  negro  battalions,  the  latter  with- 
standing better  than  Europeans  the  fury  of  the  epidemic. 


^ 


A    VIEW    OF    VERA    CRUZ    AND    THE    FORT    OF    SAN   JTTAN    OF    TTLT.OA. 


Vera  Cruz  can  scarcely  be  said  to  possess  a  harbour,  having 
only  an  indifferent  anchorage,  in  which  ships  are  far  from  safe. 
Fort  St.  Juan  affords  the  only  shelter,  but  in  bad  weather  vessels 
frequently  break  from  their  moorings,  and  are  thrown  or  driven 
on  to  the  coast.  A  storm  here  is  synonymous  with  north  wind, 
and  when  it  blows  no  words  can  give  an  adequate  idea  of  its 
violence ;  it  is  not  a  straightforward,  honest  tempest,  such  as 
every  good    mariner   knows   how  to   cope   with,    but   it    comes   in 


4  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

terrific  and  sudden  squalls,  carrying  whirlwinds  of  sand,  which 
penetrate  the  best-closed  houses ;  consequently,  on  the  first 
indication  of  its  approach,  every  dwelling  is  securely  fastened, 
barges  are  taken  in  and  chained  up,  vessels  lower  their  double 
anchors,  the  harbour  becomes  empty,  all  work  is  suspended, 
and  the  place  wears  the  aspect  of  a  deserted  city.  The  ther- 
mometer falls  suddenly,  the  porter,  with  teeth  chattering,  wraps 
himself  in  his  blanket,  a  woollen  overcoat  is  quickly  substituted 
for  the  ordinary  white  holland  jacket,  and  every  one  goes  about 
shivering  with  cold.  The  pier  is  soon  hidden  by  the  huge  waves 
raised  by  the  disturbed  element,  in  the  harbour  vessels  get  foul 
of  one  another,  and  steamers  to  avoid  shipwreck  get  up  steam, 
ready  to  take  their  station  outside. 

Vera  Cruz  welcomed  us  with  one  of  these  strong  north  winds, 
which  obliged  us  to  stay  for  three  clays  in  the  roadstead,  unable 
to  leave  our  steamer  ;  and  when  I  did  land,  I  was  so  glad,  so 
happy  at  once  more  feeling  the  ground  under  my  feet,  that  I 
failed  to  notice,  as  I  had  done  before,  the  very  uncomfortable 
pavement  of  the  town,  which  consists  of  sharp  pointed  stones  ; 
but  just  as  a  sheep  has  a  portion  of  his  fleece  torn  from  him  by 
every  bramble  he  passes  by,  so  does  every  traveller  leave  some 
portion  of  his  individuality  in  every  country  which  he  visits — 
and  on  seeing  again  the  places  he  has  known  before,  he  thinks 
to  himself  that  he  will  be  welcomed  by  the  same  impressions, 
the  same  friendships,  nay,  the  same  adventures  as  before  will  be 
there.  He  believes  he  will  find  everything  exactly  as  he  left 
it,  he  looks  forward  to  shaking  hands  with  a  particular  friend, 
to  revisiting  a  certain  spot,  to  entering  a  certain  house,  whose 
kind  inmates  had  always  had  a  warm  welcome  for  him.  He 
arrives,  but  the  scene  is  changed,  the  old  well-remembered  spot 
is  laid  waste,  the  house  a  heap  of  ruins,  friends  dead,  and  Time, 
alas  !  has  done  its   fatal  work. 


Vera  Cruz  and  Puei]la. 


After  two-and-twenty  years'  absence,  I  eagerly  looked  forward 
to  shaking  hands  with  the  friends  I  had  left.  The  returning 
traveller  looks  back  on  two-and-twenty  years  as  but  a  day  ;  to 
him  it  seems  but  yesterday  that  he  left  the  place  ;  every  one 
will,  of  course,  know  him  again ;  every  one  will  come  forward 
and  warmly  welcome  him  back.  Heaven  help  him !  The 
quarter  of  a  century,  which  he  has  hardly  taken  into  account, 
has  in  reality  weighed  heavily  on  him,  as  upon  all ;  even  should 
he  be  fortunate  enough  to  recognise  a  few  acquaintances,  they 
have  completely  forgotten  him,  and  like  Rip  Van  Winkle,  he 
seems  to  awake  from  a  hundred  years'  sleep — to  find  all  changed, 
and  everything  about  him  strange  and  new.  In  my  own  case, 
the  only  friend  I  found  was  the  oldest  of  all,  whom  I  thought 
I  was  never  likely  to  see  again.  But  it  was  not  until  I  had  told 
him  my  name  that  he  recognised  me  ;  for  at  first  he  saw  nothing 
but  a  perfect  stranger  standing  before  him.  I  inquired  after  A — 
he  was  no  more  ;  and  B  ? — dead  ;  and  C  ? — dead  also.  I  stopped, 
I  was  afraid  to  go  on.  It  was  under  the  burden  of  impressions 
such  as  these  that  I  found  myself  once  more  in  Vera  Cruz. 

And  yet  Vera  Cruz,  situated  at  the  extremity  of  the  Mexican 
gulf,  is  not  commonplace,  but  rather  an  Eastern  city,  and  her 
origin  is  marked  everywhere  ;  in  her  cupolas,  painted  white,  pink, 
and  blue,  her  flat  terraces,  and  ornaments  mostly  of  a  pyramidal 
form.  But  cities  live  longer  than  men,  and  I  found  Vera  Cruz 
rejuvenated,   younger  and  more  animated  than  of  yore. 

A  slight  breath  of  French  activity  seems  to  have  crossed  the 
seas  and  to  pervade  everything.  The  houses  are  freshly  painted, 
the  steeples  whitewashed,  cupolas  enamelled,  and  new  blocks 
of  houses  and  monuments  meet  the  eye  in  all  directions.  The 
square,  which  was  formerly  squalid  and  intersected  by  water- 
courses, is  now  a  charming  place,  paved  with  marble  and  planted 
with  trees,  in  which  squirrels   and  ouertitis  gambol  and  play  the 


6  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

whole  day  long.     The  centre  is  occupied  by  a  fountain,  and  the 
sides    by    arcades,    giving    access   to   magnificent    cafds,    beautiful 
shops,  the  Cathedral  and  the  Town  Hall  inlaid  with  gleaming  tiles. 
In   the  day-time  the  shade   is  deep   and   the  air  cool,    whilst 
in    the  evening   numerous  loungers    and  fair    women,    their   hair 
chequered    with    phosphorescent    cucuyos,    fill    the   green    walks, 
and  give  it  the  appearance  of  a  huge  hot-house.     Vera  Cruz,  to 
those  who  are  used  to  its  climate,  is  a  very  pleasant  abode,  and 
though  in  some  respects  not  so  desirable  as  many  European  cities, 
life    here,   on    account    of  the   great  heat,    is   easier,   fuller,  more 
satisfying.      Wines   are    not   dearer    than   in   Paris  ;    fish    is    both 
plentiful  and  excellent  ;  tropical  fruit  of  every  kind  is  to  be  found 
in   the   market,  as   well   as  all  the   feathered   tribe,   varying   from 
the  laughing-bird   and  the  parrot  to  the  beautiful  red  and  green 
Aras  ot  Tabasco.     Add  to  this  the  constant  incoming   and  out- 
going of  every  nation  in  the  universe,  eliciting  a  daily  interchange 
of  news  with   the  outer  world,   and   in   a  sense  annihilating  the 
distance    which    divides   you    from    the    mother   country.     Then, 
too,  there  is  the  Gulf  with  its  blue  waters,  tempting  to  the  most 
delightful   dives    man    ever    had ;    the  jetty,    which,    insignificant 
though  it  be,  is  none  the  less  a  favourite   resort,   where   in   the 
evening  people  go   for  a  little    fresh   air,   beneath  a   magnificent 
canopied   sky  ;    and   where    in   the    day   they   can   watch    on    the 
horizon    the    white    sail    disappearing    out    of  sight.      Picture    to 
yourself  this   marvellous  sky,  filled   with   innumerable  noisy  sea- 
birds  and  small  black  vultures  dotting  it  at  a  dizzy  height,  whilst 
far  below,  hoary,  venerable  pelicans,  quite  at  home  in  the  harbour, 
from   long   habit   seem    to   spend  their  lives   in  diving  and  rising 
solemnly,  then  come  and  perch  on   the   Custom   House  flag,  with 
a  grotesque  kind  of  dignity,  as   though  conscious  of  having  fully 
done   what   was   expected   of  them. 

But  the  great  feature  about   Vera   Cruz    is    the    innumerable 


Vera  Cruz  and  Puebla. 


flights  of  black  vultures,  which  fill  the  streets,  and  cover  every 
roof  and  pinnacle.  They  are  so  tame  as  to  be  scarcely  disturbed 
by  the  passers-by,  and  when  servants  throw  out  house  refuse, 
there  follows  a  general  rush  and  a  fearful  fight,  in  which  dogs 
take  part,  without,  however,  always  getting  the  best  of  it.  These 
dogs,  like  those  of  Constantinople,  are  the  a^diles  oi  both  town 
and  country,    which   without  them    would   be   intolerable. 

Beyond  Mexico  Gate,  a  fine  public  walk,  planted  with  large 
cocoa-trees,  leads  to  a  suburb  which  has  within  the  last  few 
years  grown  into  a  little  town  ;  it  is  the  great  rendezvous  for 
sailors  and  coolies  who  come  to  dance  and  flirt  with  the  damsels 
of  the  place,  and  the  evening  is  generally  wound  up  with  a 
hot  dispute  with  their  less  favoured  companions. 

The  coast  along  the  Atlantic  is  a  vast  sandy  plain,  diversified 
by  marshes  peopled  with  herons,  wild  ducks,  iguanas,  and  serpents, 
which  are  almost  impervious  from  thickets  of  aromatic  shrubs 
and  wild  flowers,  in  the  midst  of  which  tower  magnificent  trees  ; 
but  the  sound  of  no  voice  ever  breaks  on  this  wilderness  in 
which  lurks  the  malaria,  save  the  hoarse  cry  of  a  wild  animal, 
the  passing  of  an  eagle-fisher,  or  the  whirling  of  a  vulture  in 
quest  of  some  easy  prey. 

The  journey  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Mexico  is  now  performed 
by  railway,  which  has  replaced  the  once  cumbrous  diligence, 
and  traffic  has  increased  to  such  an  extent  that  the  English 
Railway  Company  is  unable  to  convey  inland  goods  which  have 
come  by  sea. 

We  start  on  our  journey  with  an  escort,  even  now  a  necessary 
precaution,  for  five-and-twenty  years  have  not  modified  the 
manners  of  the  natives,  and  highway  robbers  are  still  a  flourish- 
ing institution  in  Mexico. 

Pressing  westward,  we  go  through  the  sandy,  marshy  zone, 
and  leaving  behind   us  Tejeria,  Soledad,   Paso  Ancho,  and  Paso 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


del  Macho,  we  reach  the  famous  Chiquihuite  bridge,  wh-en  a 
glorious  region  succeeds  to  the  flat  country  and  parched  vegetation 
of  the  coast ;  we  continue  to  ascend  through  grander  and  grander 
scenery  and  more  luxurious  vegetation,  having  on  our  left  the 
river  Atoyac  with  its  precipitous  course,  between  deep  ravines, 
and  presently  we  come  in  sight  of  the  iron  viaduct,  which  is 
considered  one  of  the  best  works  on  the  line. 

Still  pressing  upwards  we  reach  the  temperate  zone,  where 
we  find  coffee,  tobacco,  and  banana  plantations,  spreading  their 
broad  green  leaves  under  the  shade  of  great  trees  which  shelter 
them  against  the  fierce  heat  of  the  sun ;  while  little  houses, 
embowered  in  orange-groves  and  creepers,  peep  out  coquettishly 
from  leaf  and  foliage. 

And  now  the  grand  outlines  of  the  Sierra  are  about  us,  and 
at  every  bend  of  the  road  charming  views  unfold  before  our 
enraptured  gaze ;  a  dazzling  light  colours  all  things  with  the 
richest  tints,  and  Orizaba  rears  its  magnificent  head  straight 
before  us.  Orizaba  is,  with  the  Popocatepetl,  the  highest 
mountain  in  Mexico ;  its  snowy  peak  is  visible  for  many  a 
mile  at  sea.  At  its  foot  may  be  seen  the  city  of  the  same 
name,  extending  over  a  large  area,  with  her  numerous  and 
once  gorgeous  churches,  now  falling  into  decay,  amidst  a  vast 
plateau,  circled  by  mighty  mountains,  once  gleaming  with  volcanic 
fires  and  grand  summits.  Mills  and  factories,  greatly  on  the 
increase,  are  worked  by  water-power,  which  is  brought  by 
aqueducts    or  mountain  torrents. 

After  Orizaba,  the  road  becomes  very  steep ;  we  enter  the 
gorges  of  Infiernillo  (small  hell),  where,  along  roads  coasting 
deep  ravines  and  unfathomable  precipices,  spanned  by  stupendous 
bridges,  we  reach  Maltrata,  where  the  train  stops  to  change 
engines,  when  we  ascend  the  heights,  or  cumbres^  leading  to 
the  plateau. 


Vera  Cruz  and  Puebla. 


And  now  the  road  opens  out  in  long  windings,  rounding 
the  steepest  dechvities  ;  bridges  and  tunnels  succeed  each  other 
with  dazzling  rapidity,  and  the  huge  engine  puffs  and  hisses, 
sending  out  long,  curling  volumes  of  white  smoke  over  the 
most  glorious  landscape ;  and  our  journey,  which  has  lasted 
three   hours,    brings    us    to    Esperanza,   at  an   elevation   of   some 


VIEW   OK    PUEBLA,    TAKEN    FKOM    AL'IO. 


1,200  metres,'"  and  here  we  breakfast  at  an  excellent  buffet.  After 
Esperanza.  the  country  becomes  a  dreary,  monotonous,  dusty 
plain,  contrasting  painfully  with  the  brilliant  colouring  of  the 
warm  zone ;  not  a  tree  is  to  be  seen,  hardly  any  vegetation ; 
some  rare  fields  of  stunted  maize  and  wheat,  a  few  meagre 
cactuses,  with  here  and  there  a  white  hacienda,  are  the  only 
indications  that  this  forlorn  region  is  not  wholly  uninhabited. 
Nevertheless,  the  monotony  of  this  immense  plain  is  relieved 
by    the    grand    outline    of   mountains    which    bound    the  horizon. 


3,901  feet. 


lo  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

and  the  sand  mounds,  which  are  visible  everywhere,  give  the 
landscape  a  peculiar  and  somewhat  severe  aspect. 

The  railway,  strange  to  say,  has  deprived  this  region  of  its 
few  inhabitants,  and  steam  has  done  away  with  the  arriero  and 
the  long  lines  of  heavy  carts,  panting  mules,  and  muleteers  in 
picturesque  costumes,  and  the  tinkling  bells  of  niadinas  (mules 
heading  the  trains)  are  no  more. 

Then,  also,  these  dusty  roads  were  enlivened  by  the  presence 
of  small  cottages,  whence  the  cheerful  hand-clapping  of  tortilleros 
reminded  the  hungry  traveller  that  here  his  honest  hunger  might 
be  appeased,  during  which  the  muleteer  would  ogle  or  distribute 
somewhat  questionable  compliments  among  the  belles  of  the 
district ;  all  is  gone,  even  to  the  meson,  in  whose  vast  court- 
yard weary  mules  were  put  up  for  the  night.  The  cottage 
has  left  no  trace  behind,  the  walls  of  the  meson  are  a  mass  of 
ruins,  and  the  courtyard  deserted. 

And  now  we  travel  in  a  north-west  direction  ;  we  pass 
Huamantla,  round  Malinche,  and  leave  Puebla  some  twenty 
leagues  on  our  left,  and  crossing  Apizaco  we  reach  the  Llanos  of 
Apam,  famed  for  its  piUque,  or  Mexican  wine,  which  is  made  of 
the  juice  of  aloes  {Agave  Americana),  to  be  found  everywhere ; 
but  Apam  pulque  is  as  superior  to  other  pulque  as  Chambertin 
is  superior  to  ordinary  claret.  Aloe  plantations  are  everywhere 
to  be  seen,  and  at  each  station  a  huge  train  calls  daily  for  the 
casks  full  ol  the  liquor  so  dear  to  Mexicans.  This  intoxicating 
beverage  is  not  tempting  in  appearance,  for  it  is  yellowish,  thick 
and  stringy,  with  a  most  repulsive  smell,  yet  when  a  taste  for  it 
has  been  acquired  even  Europeans  drink  it  with  pleasure  after  a 
day's  trip.  Here  I  am  reminded  how  much  the  railway  has 
destroyed  the  picturesqueness  of  the  road.  If  in  former  times  the 
traveller  went  over  the  ground  at  a  slower  pace,  he  had  leisure  to 
linger    over    the    plain,    admire    the    mountain    round    which    the 


Vera  Cruz  and   Puebla.  ii 


railway  now  twines,  to  stop  at  Amozoc,  a  tinic-honourcd  haunt  ot 
brigands  ;  and  though  he  missed  Tlascala,  the  faithful  ally  of 
Cortez,  and  the  hereditary  enemy  of  Mexico,  he  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  visiting  Puebla  de  los  Angeles,  which  lies  at  the  very 
foot  of  great  Malintzi  or  Malinche,  faced  by  the  snowy  peaks  of 
Iztaccihuatl  and   Popocatepetl. 

The  city  of  Puebla  de  los  Angeles  was  founded  by  the 
Spaniards  soon  after  the  conquest,  on  the  site  of  an  insignificant 
village  a  few  miles  east  of  Cholula.  After  Mexico,  which  it  rivals 
by  the  beauty  of  its  edifices,  it  is  the  most  important  city  of  New 
Spain.  Like  ancient  Cholula,  she  is  remarkable  for  the  number 
and  the  magnificence  of  her  sacred  buildings,  the  multitude  of 
her  priests,  and  the  pomp  of  her  religious  ceremonies,  and  her 
cathedral,  in  an  architectural  point  of  view,  ranks  as  high  as 
that  of  Mexico,  whilst  her  treasures  are  perhaps  even  more 
considerable  than  those  of  her  rival — her  grand  chandelier  of 
massive  silver  having  alone  cost  ^14,000.  The  innumerable 
steeples  of  a  hundred  churches,  and  the  gleaming  cupolas,  give 
a  remarkable  character  to  the  panorama  of  this  city,  which  has 
sustained  many  a  siege,  while  her  last  defence  under  Ortega  was 
simply  heroic. 

In  the  time  of  the  diligence  the  road  led  to  ancient  Cholula, 
and  the  traveller  had  the  opportunity  of  visiting  her  pyramid,  on 
which  stands  the  temple  dedicated  to  Quetzacoatl,  "  God  of  the 
air,"  who  was  pleased  to  dwell  among  men,  and,  during  his  visit 
in  Cholula,  which  extended  over  twenty  years,  he  taught  the 
Toltecs  the  arts  of  peace,  a  better  form  of  government,  and  a 
more  spiritualised  religion,  in  which  the  only  sacrifices  were  the 
fruits  and  fiowers  of  the  season.  .  It  was  in  honour  of  this 
benevolent  deity  that  this  stupendous  mound  was  erected.  The 
date  of  its  erection  is  unknown,  for  it  was  found  there  when  the 
Aztecs  entered  the  plateau  ;    but   it  has   been   variously  ascribed 


12  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

to   the  Olmecs,   the   Toltecs,  and   even  to  a  race  of  giants,  who 
wished    to    save    themselves    from    another    deluge.       Clavigero 
observes  very  naturally,  that   the  builders  were  rather   stupid   in 
taking  so   much   trouble  to  raise  an  artificial  mound,   when  they 
had   within   reach  the  higfhest  mountains  in  the  world  where    to 
take    refuge    in    any    such    emergency.""'     It    had    the    truncated, 
pyramidal  form  of  the  Mexican  teocalli  (temple),  its    four    sides 
facing  the  cardinal  points,  and  divided  into  the  same  number  of 
terraces.     The  original  outlines,  however,  have  been  effaced  by 
the  action  of  time,  while  the  growth  of  shrubs  and  wild  flowers, 
which   cover  its  surface,  gives  it  the  appearance  of  one  of  those 
symmetrical    elevations    thrown    up    by    Plutonic     agency    rather 
than  the  work  of  man.     The  height  of  this  pyramid  is  60  metres  ;  t 
its  base,  which  is  square,  covers  about   forty-four  acres,  and   the 
platform    on    its    truncated    summit    embraces    more    than    one. 
Cholula  was  of  great  antiquity,  and  was  founded  by  the   primitive 
race  which  occupied  the  land  before  the  Aztecs.      At  the  time  of 
the    conquest    it  was    one  of  the    most  populous  and  flourishing 
cities  of  New  Spain.      "  Nothing  could  be  more   grand  than   the 
view  which  met  the  eye  from  the  truncated  summit  of  the  pyramid. 
Towards  the  north  stretched  the  bold  barrier   of  porphyry  rock 
which   nature   has  reared   round  the  valley   of  Mexico,   with   the 
huge  Popocatepetl  and   Iztaccihuatl  standing  like  two  sentinels  to 
guard   the  entrance  of  this  enchanted   region.     P'ar  away  to  the 
south  was  seen  the  conical  head  of  Orizaba  soaring  high  into  the 
clouds,  and  nearer,  the  barren,  though  beautifully  shaped  Sierra 
de    Malinche,    throwing    its    broad    shadows    over   the    plains    of 
Tlascala.     Three    of   these    volcanoes,    higher    than    the    highest 
peak  in  P2urope,  and  shrouded  in  snows  which    never   melt   under 


*  Clavigero,  "  Hist.  Antigua,"  lib.  11.  p.  53. 
t   199  feet. 


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Vera  Cruz  and  Puerla.  15 

the  fierce  sun  of  the  tropics,  at  the  foot  of  the  spectator  the  sacred 
city  of  Cholula,  with  its  bright  towers  and  pinnacles  sparkling  in 
the  sun,  reposing  amidst  gardens  and  verdant  groves.  Such  was 
the  magnificent  prospect  which  met  the  eye  of  the  conquerors,  and 
may  still,  with  slight  change,  meet  that  of  the  modern  traveller,  as 
he  stands  on  the  broad  plateau  of  the  pyramid  and  his  eye  wanders 
over  the  fairest  portion  of  the  beautiful  plateau  of  Puebla."  "" 

Cholula  was  the  holy  city  of  Anahuac,  the  Mecca,  Jerusalem, 
and  Rome  of  the  Indians  ;  in  it  the  kindred  races  had  temples 
of  their  own,  and  ministers  for  the  service  of  the  deity  to  whom 
they  were  consecrated.  The  sanctity  of  the  place  brouo-ht 
pilgrims  from  the  furthest  corners  of  Anahuac,  who  came  to  offer 
up  their  devotions  at  the  shrine  of  Ouetzacoatl  and  other 
divinities.  Here  Ouetzacoatl  had  dwelt,  and  on  his  departure 
for  the  countries  of  the  East,  he  had  bidden  his  followers  to  keep 
fast  his  teaching,  promising  that  he  and  his  descendants  would 
return,  to  reign  again  over  them.  This  remarkable  legend,  which 
was  popular  with  all  the  Indian  tribes,  was  one  of  the  most 
powerful  auxiliaries  of  the  Spanish  conquerors,  in  whom  the 
simple  Indians  thought  they  recognised  the  lofty  stature,  noble 
mien,  clear  complexion,  and  blue  eyes,  of  the  deity  they  had  so 
long  expected. 

But  talking  of  Cholula  has  made  us  forget  that  the  train  is 
going  to  start  :  the  guards,  hurrying  in  every  direction  to  look 
for  us,  summon  us  into  our  carriages,  the  signal  is  given,  and  we 
speed  away. 

And  now  we  notice  on  the  platform  of  every  station,  detach- 
ments of  soldiers,  with  large  felt  hats,  trimmed  with  silver 
ribbons  and  tassels,  whilst  their  horses,  ready  saddled,  are 
stationed  close  by.      In  spite  of  their  baggy  trousers  and  slouching 

*  Prescott,  "  Hist,  of  the  Conquest,"  vol.  11.  p.  8. 


1 6  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

hats,  these  men  have  a  military  bearing,  which  shows  them  to 
be  a  picked  body  of  troops,  and  in  fact  they  are  the  "  rural 
guard,"  lately  formed,  but  already  of  the  greatest  service  ;  thanks 
to  their  vigilant  intelligence,  the  country  is  almost  safe.  This 
guard  is  recruited  among  the  class  described  as  "having  no 
occupation  and  no  permanent  abode,"  and  the  Government  gave 
proof  of  its  sagacity  when  it  availed  itself  of  this  turbulent 
element,  which  after  having  been  the  scourge  of  the  country, 
now  keeps  it  quiet.  It  is  a  case  of  setting  a  thief  to  catch  a 
thief;  for  the  "rural,"  acquainted  for  twenty  miles  round  with 
all  the  "old  customers,"  whose  accomplice  he  used  to  be,  knows 
better  than  any  one  how  to  track  an  escaped  convict,  or  discover 
a  secret  haunt ;  and  thanks  to  telegraphs  and  railroads,  pronuncia- 
mentos  have  gone  out  of  fashion,  nipped  in  the  bud  before  they 
are  given  time  to  assume  any  large  proportions. 

From  Apam,  where  we  got  out  to  look  at  the  view,  we 
proceed  to  Palma ;  then  Otumba,  where  Cortez,  a  few  days 
after  his  evacuation  of  Mexico,  obtained  a  great  victory 
over  the  Aztecs,  in  which  their  chief  was  slain  ;  and  leaving 
Teotihuacan  with  its  pyramids  on  the  left,  we  reach  Mexico 
and  St.  Cosme  Station. 


,   ..  ^_JupgJi%lit!: 


^tp 


-    '    '■-.to'' .' ■■'■I^SI-?'/ ' 


ffff::ffl|. 


CHURCH    OF   SAN    DOMINGO.      {Sec  ^.  30. ) 


CHAPTER    II, 


MEXICO. 


Her  New  Appearance — Moral  Transformation — Public  Walks  and  Squares- 
Suburbs — Railway — Monuments — Cathedral — S.  Domingo — S.  Francisco- 
La  Merced — Hats  a  la  S.  Basilio — Suppression  of  Religious  Orders. 

Mexico  has  undergone  a  still  greater  change  than  Vera  Cruz. 
The  large  square,  which  used  to  be  ill-paved  and  empty,  has 
become  a  fine  garden,  planted  with  eucalyptus  trees,  which  have 
grown  wonderfully  during  the  last  twelve  years,  some  measuring 
seven  feet  in  girth  and  over  loo  feet  in  height.  Beneath  the 
shade  of  these  beautiful  trees  stretch  beautiful  gardens  and  green 
turf,   whilst  the  centre  is  occupied  by  the  Zocalo,  a  pavilion,   in 


1 8  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

which  every  evening  very  fair  concerts  are  given,  attended  by 
the   Mexican  society. 

Spacious  houses  in  modern  style  have  been  constructed  at 
different  points  of  the  city  ;  new  chstricts  have  arisen  on  the 
site  once  occupied  by  convents  ;  pretty  squares  are  distributed 
about,  and  the  Paseo  Nuevo,  which  was  to  extend  as  far  as 
Chapultepec,  is  one  which  the  proudest  cities  in  the  world  might 
envy.  But  will  it  ever  be  completed  ?  At  present,  it  only 
reaches  the  imposing  monument  erected  in  honour  of  Christopher 
Columbus,  which  every  Frenchman  should  admire  as  coming  from 
Paris  and  the  work  of  a  Frenchman.  The  immediate  area 
round  Mexico  has  been  completely  transformed  by  lines  of  rail- 
road and  tramways ;  in  places  once  occupied  by  fetid  water  or 
marshy  ground,  pretty  villas  and  flower  gardens  are  now  to  be 
seen,  whilst  on  the  other  side  of  the  Paseo,  to  the  right  and 
left  of  S.  Cosme,  the  smaller  suburbs  are  extending  so  fast  that 
they  will  soon  join  the  main  city.  Should  Americans  come — 
and  a  goodly  number  are  here  already — all  this  land,  now  almost 
valueless,  would  in  a  few  years  double  and  treble  in  price. 

But  what  is  still  more  remarkable  is  the  moral  transformation  : 
a  new  life  seems  to  animate  Mexico  :  education,  trade,  industry, 
and  public  works,  have  received  great  development ;  security  has 
increased,  a  public  conscience  has  been  awakened,  ideas  have 
become  more  liberal,  change  of  power  is  now  effected  without 
disturbance,  whilst  formerly  it  was  preceded,  accompanied  and 
followed  by  the  ever-recurring  pi'onunciamentos ;  a  feeling  of 
good-fellowship  begins  to  penetrate  all  classes,  and  Govern- 
ment House  is  in  a  true  sense  the  House  of  the  people,  being 
filled  from  early  morning  by  friends,  employes,  or  petitioners. 
Every  one  is  free  to  come  and  go,  without  let  or  hindrance, 
all  are  received  by  the  Governor  without  having  to  ask  an 
audience,  and  every  one  is  welcomed  with  the  greatest  affability, 


Mexico.  19 

as  I  can  from  personal  experience  amply  testify.  To  give  an 
idea  how  far  the  spirit  of  patriotism  was  roused  by  the  war  of 
intervention,  I  will  quote  the  words  of  a  deputy,  who,  on  my 
preliminary  bill  being  submitted  to  Congress,  which  had  been 
agreed  to  between  the  Government  and  myself  respecting  my 
excavations  and  their  export,  rushed  into  the  tribune  to  speak 
against  its  adoption.  "Gentlemen,"  he  cried,  "I  feel  savage, 
beside  myself,  almost  idiotic,  when  the  interests  of  our  country 
are  at  stake."  The  speaker  was  right  in  his  description  of 
himself,  for  the  removal  of  a  few  fragments  from  the  soil  of 
the   Republic  was  not  deserving  of  such  an  outburst. 

But  it  is  the  privilege  of  the  young  ever  to  exaggerate,  and 
Mexico  is  as  yet  in  her  youth.  The  public  press  is  just  started, 
and  there  are  but  two  independent  papers,  the  admirably  con- 
ducted Republican  Moniteur  and  the  Nineteenth  Century,  which 
give  any  profits.  All  the  others  are  paid  by  the  Government, 
are  short-lived,  and  disappear  one  after  another,  to  reappear  under 
new  names  and  take  up  with  a  different  party.  And  yet  there 
is  no  lack  of  talent,  the  drawback  is  in  the  difficulty  of  communi- 
cations. The  heavy  postal  charges  (a  letter  from  one  village 
to  another  costs  one  shilling),  the  ignorance  and  indifference  of 
the  masses  about  political  events,  are  the  main  causes  which 
prevent  any  newspaper  from  succeeding.  The  only  interest 
evinced  in  politics  is  at  the  time  of  the  elections,  and  even  in 
these,  Mexicans  take  very  little  Interest,  knowing  beforehand  that 
It  will  not  much  matter  to  them,  and  that  their  burden  will  hardly 
be  made  lighter.  It  may  be  safely  predicted  that  the  Indians 
will  not  be  roused  from  their  apathy  until  they  are  better  educated, 
and  until  they  discover  that  they  have  a  direct  interest  in  mixing 
in  politics — for  which  they  are  eminently  qualified — and  if  their 
vast  majority  be  considered,  they  would  undoubtedly  contribute 
a  large  contingent,  whilst  their  Industry,  their  Intelligent  quickness 

c  2 


20  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

to  seize  everything,  coupled  with  a  natural  talent  of  adaptation, 
would  soon  raise  them  to  the  foremost  ranks  in  the  army,  politics, 
the  bar  and  science,  as  may  even  now  be  seen  in  the  few  who 
have  had  the  privilege  of  education  ;  nor  would  this  be  difficult, 
for  they  now  stand  on  a  perfect  footing  of  equality  with  the 
Mexicans,  for  unlike  most  conquerors,  jealous  to  preserve  their 
nationality,  the  modern  Mexicans  repudiate  their  Spanish  descent 
and  are  proud  to  call  themselves  Indians.  But  what  is  to  be 
the  outcome  of  it  all?  Will  the  Indian,  forgetting  his  humble 
and  thrifty  aspirations,  thirst,  like  the  Mexican,  after  Government 
employment,  which,  whilst  it  keeps  him  idle,  unfits  him  for 
commercial  and  industrious  pursuits  ?  He  has  lived  hitherto 
under  laws  harsh  and  severe  for  him  alone  ;  is  there  no  fear 
that  once  free,  he  will  plunge  into  the  vices  of  freed  men,  rather 
than  put  on  the  virtues  of  civilised  people  ?  If  we  are  to  borrow 
our  experience  from  the  past,  this  would  be  the  case,  since  when, 
shortly  after  the  conquest,  he  lived  under  milder  laws,  the  effect 
was  to  sink  him  into  such  an  appalling  condition  of  moral  de- 
pravity as  to  move  the  good  Franciscan  monk  Sahagun  to  say 
of  him:  "We  ought  not  perhaps  to  be  surprised  at  finding 
among  them  the  usual  shortcomings  which  belong  to  their  country, 
since  the  Spaniards  who  live  here,  and  especially  the  American 
born,  are  in  no  way  better  than  the  Indians.  Even  the  natives 
of  Spain,  after  a  few  years  in  this  country,  arc  quite  altered,  and 
I  have  always  ascribed  this  change  to  a  difference  of  climate  and 
latitude.  It  is  humihating  to  our  feelings  as  Christians,"  exclaims 
Sahagun,  "to  reflect  that  the  Indians  of  olden  time,  wise  in  their 
generation,  knew  how  to  remedy  evils  peculiar  to  the  soil,  by 
means  of  jjractices  which  were  their  safeguard,  whereas  we 
succumb  to  our  evil  propensities  ;  the  result  of  which  is  that  we 
see  a  new  generation,  Indian  as  well  as  Spanish,  rising  around 
us,  which   it  is  difficult  to   manage  or  to  sav(^      Parents  have  not 


Mexico.  21 

that  authority  they  ought  to  have  over  their  offspring  to  guard 
them  against  their  natural  proclivities.  The  ancient  dwellers  of 
this  soil  were  far  better  inspired  when  they  abandoned  the 
education  of  their  children  to  public  authority,  which  replaced 
paternal  rights.  Unfortunately  this  method  was  tainted  by 
idolatrous  and  superstitious  practices ;  but  were  these  to  be 
eliminated  and  the  ancient  method  introduced  afresh  among  the 
Indo-Spanish  people,  a  great  public  good  would  undoubtedly 
follow,  which  would  relieve  the  Government  of  many  difficulties 
now  pressing  upon  it.  As  it  is  we  hardly  know  how  to  deal 
with  those  reared  in  our  schools,  who,  finding  themselves  no 
longer  checked  by  the  fear  and  discipline  of  former,  nor  the 
severity  of  pagan  times,  do  not  care  to  learn  and  are  indifferent 
to  admonition  ;  very  different  in  this  respect  from  their  Aztec 
forefathers.  At  first,  following  their  ancient  practice,  which 
placed  the  youth  of  both  sexes  in  buildings  within  the  enclosure 
of  their  temples,  in  which  they  were  drilled  in  monastic  discipline, 
and  taught  to  reverence  their  gods  and  obey  the  laws  of  their 
country,  we  tried  to  bring  them  up  in  our  establishments,  and  to 
this  end  we  collected  them  in  buildings  adjoining  our  houses,  in 
which  they  were  accustomed  to  rise  in  the  middle  of  the  night  to 
sing  the  matins  of  Our  Lady,  and  recite  the  '  Hours '  at  early 
dawn  ;  they  were  also  required  to  beat  themselves  with  stripes 
and  to  spend  some  time  of  the  day  in  mental  exercises,  but  as 
they  were  not  compelled  as  in  pagan  times  to  do  any  manual 
labour,  as  their  natural  aspirations  seemed  to  demand,  and  as 
moreover  they  were  better  fed  and  more  mildly  treated  than  their 
student  ancestors,  they  soon  learnt  and  fell  into  evil  ways.  We 
also  directed  our  attention  to  the  women  to  see  whether  it  were 
possible  to  place  them  in  convents,  as  in  heathen  times,  and  with 
this  end  in  view  we  made  them  Christian  nuns,  and  imposed  on 
them    perpetual    vows ;    convents    and    retreats  were    erected,    in 


22  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


which  they  were  taught  their  religious  duties  and  the  art  of 
reading  and  writing.  Such  as  had  shown  themselves  proficient 
in  these  pursuits  and  were  possessed  besides  of  becoming  dignity 
and  decorum,  were  chosen  to  preside  over  these  establishments 
as  guides  and  teachers  of  Christianity  and  purity  of  life.'"  At 
first  we  fondly  hoped,  as  in  the  men's  case,  that  they  would 
become  worthy  and  spodess  nuns,  but  we  were  mistaken,  ex- 
perience having  shown  that,  for  the  present  at  least,  they  were 
incapable  of  so  much  perfection,  and  convents  and  conventicles 
had  to  be  abolished,  and  we  have  to  confess  that  the  time  has 
not  yet  come  for  repeating  the  experiment." 

The  passage  just  quoted  is  suggestive  of  many  things. 

A  deplorable  change  for  the  worse  Is  already  observable 
in  the  character  of  the  Indians  of  Tabasco  and  Chiapas  since 
the  Suffrage  Bill,  which  by  making  them  partly  independent 
of  the  whites,  has  also  made  them  Idle,  insolent,  treacherous, 
and  depraved.  A  sad  look-out  for  times  to  come.  But  even 
granting  that  all  happens  for  the  best,  is  there  much  probability 
that  the  Indian  will  have  time  to  develop  his  natural  resources 
before  the  Anglo-Saxon  Invasion  shall  have  confined  him  for 
ever  to  the  lower  ranks  In  the  social  scale  ? 

However  that  may  be,  Mexico,  although  bent  on  progress, 
seems  only  to  receive  her  notions  second-hand.  Eager  for  action, 
every  new  idea  or  advance  which  has  received  a  trial  with  other 
nations,  Is  sure  to  be  promptly  adopted,  without  any  inquiry 
whether  It  Is  applicable,  suitable,  or  useful,  among  a  people 
wholly  unprepared  to  receive  them  ;  and  this  total  impossibility 
of  legislating  for  half  savages  and  Illiterate  people  made  a  deputy 
say  one  day  to  me  :  "  We  have  a  constitution  fit  for  angels, 
whereas  we  ought  to  have  one  fit  for  asses." 


Sahagun,  "  Hist,  de  Nueva  Espana,"  lib.  x.  cap.  xxvii. 


Mexico.  23 

What  happens  ?  The  Mexicans  at  present  enjoy  perfect 
liberty,  which  they  use  to  stop  the  action  of  the  Government, 
and  as  each  department  is  entirely  independent,  the  lowest 
clerk  is  able  to  stop  the  whole  machinery.  Most  Mexicans 
have,  or  wish  to  have.  Government  employment,  leaving  to 
foreigners  the  development  of  their  national  wealth  ;  banking, 
trade,  and  the  working  of  their  rich  mines  are,  with  few  ex- 
ceptions, in  the  hands  of  Spaniards,  French,  English,  and 
Americans,  The  latter  are  swarming  in  ;  and,  save  Vera  Cruz, 
all  the   railways  are   American. 

Very  few  Mexicans  have  been  found  willing  to  risk  their 
capital  in  these  important  enterprises,  being  satisfied  with  re- 
ceiving a  premium,  or  joining  the  companies  as  employes.  What 
will  happen  ?  It  would  be  a  strange  and  novel  phenomenon 
to  see  a  superior  (?)  race  disappearing  before  an  inferior  one. 
Be  that  as  it  may,  it  is  certain  that  on  the  day  when  the  Anglo- 
Americans  shall  be  able  to  dispense  with  the  services  of  the 
Mexican,  they  will  not  scruple  to  thrust  him  aside,  careful 
however  to  keep  the  Indians  of  the  Highlands,  now  a  docile, 
frugal,  hard-working  people,  whom  they  will  use  for  mining 
and  agricultural  purposes,  as  well  as  for  the  construction  of 
railways.  But  this  is  not  yet.  The  absorption  will  come, 
however — gradually,  silent,  peaceful — a  slow,  easy  death,  but  a 
sure  death  nevertheless. 

Yet  it  would  be  a  matter  for  regret  that  this  attractive  people, 
open  to  every  new  idea  of  progress,  eager  to  distinguish  them- 
selves, as  shown  a  hundred  times  in  the  defence  of  their  liberties, 
should  be  swallowed  up  by  the  Saxon  element.  The  "  Timeo 
Danaos  dona  ferentes "  is  surely  applicable  here,  and  Mexico 
should   beware   of  her  powerful   neighbour — Cavcant   Consules. 

Mexico    has   a  great  wealth    of  monuments,  palatial    houses, 
and  churches,   the   finest   of  which   is    the    Cathedral,   occupying 


24  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

the  northern  side  of  the  Place  d'Armes,  with  the  Palace  to  the 
east,  the  Houses  of  Parhament  to  the  south,  and  the  Portal  de 
las  Damas  on  the  western  side.  It  was  erected  on  the  site  of 
the  sumptuous  temple  dedicated  to  Huitzilopochtli,  the  war  god 
and  the  patron  deity  of  the  Aztecs,  whose  altars  reeked  with 
the  blood  of  human  hecatombs  in  every  city  of  the  empire. 
The  first  stone  for  this  church  was  laid  in  the  reign  of  Philip  II., 
and  the  canonicate  of  Archbishop  Pedro  Moya  de  Contreras. 
The  foundations,  which  extended  as  far  as  the  north  side  of 
the  old  temple,  embracing  the  whole  space  now  taken  up  by 
the  courts,  were  carried  on  under  the  energetic  supervision  of 
Alonzo  Perez  de  Castaileda.  The  work  required  for  these 
foundations,  owing  to  the  unsteady,  marshy  nature  of  the  soil, 
was  so  enormous  that  in  1615  the  walls  only  rose  to  some 
twenty  feet  above  the  ground.  Philip  III.,  on  being  informed 
of  the  difficulties  which  retarded  the  work  begun  by  his  father, 
sent  a  plan  drawn  by  his  own  architect,  which  was  to  simplify 
the  original   one,   and  accelerate  the  completion   of  the   church. 

The  principal  sacristy  was  finished  in  1623;  the  vaults  in 
the  middle  nave  were  completed  between  1623  and  1665.  In 
1667,  the  interior  of  the  Cathedral  being  quite  finished,  the 
inauguration  took  place.  The  choir,  however,  was  only  com- 
pleted in  1730,  when  the  rich  and  marvellous  balustrade,  which 
divides  the  choir  from  the  sanctuary,  executed  by  Macao,  was 
put  up.  This  balustrade,  composed  of  bronze  and  silver,  which 
has  all  the  appearance  of  burnished  gold,  is  most  striking  in 
its  general  effect. 

The  expenses  of  this  church  (completed  in  1791)  amounted 
to  2,446,000  piastres,  or  ^489,200.  Seen  from  the  square,  the 
edifice  has  the  imposing  appearance  of  churches  of  the  latter 
portion  of  the  sixteenth  century.  The  fa9ade,  though  simple, 
is  very  imposing,  and  contrasts  favourably  with  the  other  sacred 


Mexico.  25 

edifices  in  the  city  ;  three  doors  intervene  between  Doric  columns 
and  open  into  the  middle  and  lateral  naves.  Over  the  main 
door  two  stories  superimposed  and  ornamented  with  Doric  and 
Corinthian  pilasters,  support  a  most  elegant  steeple,  crowned  by 
three  statues,  representing  the  theological  virtues.  On  each  side, 
towers,  severe  in  design,  and  topped  by  cupolas,  rise  to  the 
height  of  yS  metres.'"  The  interior  is  one  mass  of  gold.  The  choir, 
which  is  immense,  occupies  the  principal  nave,  and,  by  means 
of  a  costly  composite  gallery,  is  made  to  join  the  main  altar, 
designed  after  St.  Peter's  in  Rome.  The  two  lateral  naves, 
destined  for  the  congregation,  have  no  choir  or  seats  of  any  kind, 
and  Mexican  ladies,  who  are  very  regular  in  their  attendance  at 
church,  are  satisfied  with  kneeling  or  sitting  on  the  damp  stones 
of  the  pavement,  whether  from  zeal  or  because  it  would  not  be 
"  good  form "  not  to  do  so,  remains  doubtful,  whereas  it  is  quite 
certain  that  their  delicate  constitution  demands  a  less  dangerous 
practice.  The  few  men  who  are  ever  seen  in  the  interior  of 
a  church  generally  stand  ;  most,  however,  remain  outside  talking 
to  one  another,  and  waiting  for  the  ladies,  who  on  coming  out 
reward  them  for  their  patience  by  a  bewitching  look  or  a  graceful 
inclination  of  the  head. 

Among  the  works  of  art  possessed  by  the  Cathedral,  may  be 
mentioned  a  small  picture  by  Murillo,  known  as  the  "  Virgin  of 
Belen,"  not  a  good  specimen  of  the  great  master.  The  priests 
attached  to  the  church  look  upon  it,  however,  as  their  most 
precious  jewel ;  to  this  may  be  added  the  "  Assumption  of  the 
Virgin,"  of  massive  gold,  weighing  1,116  ounces;  a  silver  lamp 
hanging  before  the  sanctuary,  which  cost  ^16,000:  the  tabernacle 
of  massive  silver  valued  at  ^32,000,  besides  diamonds,  rubies, 
emeralds,   amethysts,  pearls,  and  sapphires  in  shoals,  and  a  vast 

*   247   feet. 


26  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

quantity  of  gold  and  silver  vases,  representing  fabulous  sums  of 
money. 

On  the  wall  of  the  left  tower  to  the  west,  may  be  seen  the 
famous  Aztec  calendar,  found  on  the  17th  December,  1700,  whilst 
the  new  esplanade  of  Impedradillo  was  being  constructed.  By 
order  of  the  Viceroy  it  was  carefully  encased  and  preserved  in 
the  steeple  wall,  and  has  proved  to  be  one  of  the  most  precious 
monuments  of  Indian  antiquity.  Antonio  de  Gama,  in  a  masterly 
treatise,  explained  the  objects  to  which  it  was  devoted,  and  poured 
a  flood  of  light  on  the  astronomical  science  of  the  Aborigines 
and  their  mythology.  His  work  has  been  criticised,  however,  by 
Valentine  of  New  York,  and  both  are  impugned  by  Chavero 
of  Mexico,  whilst  others  pass  a  severe  judgment  on  all  three. 
So  true  is  it,  that  archaeological,  like  other  questions,  are  ever  open 
to  hot  dispute. 

The  Sagrario  is  a  huge  chapel  close  to  the  Cathedral,  used 
for  marriages,  christenings,  and  burial  services.  The  host  is 
exposed  at  all  times  on  the  altar  for  the  veneration  of  the  faithful. 
The  Sagrario  deserves  a  passing  note,  for  though  vicious  in  taste, 
it  has  such  a  wealth  of  ornamentation  and  sculpture,  as  to  make 
one  forget  the  defects  of  its  style  considered  as  a  whole.  It 
is  from  the  Sagrario  that  the  last  sacrament  used  to  be  carried 
to  comfort  the  rich  and  powerful,  in  a  gilt  carriage,  or  beneath 
a  gorgeous  dais,  amidst  a  cortege  of  priests,  who  preceded  and 
followed  it,  its  presence  being  announced  by  the  ringing  of  a 
silver  bell.  At  its  approach  the  traffic  and  movement  of  the 
town  was  suspended ;  every  one,  no  matter  the  state  of  the 
weather,  humbly  knelt  down  in  dust  or  mud  ;  all  were  expected 
to  join  the  procession  and  accompany  the  host  to  the  house  of 
the  dying  ;  the  viceroy  himself  was  not  exempted  from  this 
formality,  and  chroniclers  tell  us  that  many  were  the  times  when 
he  was  thus  compelled  to  head  the  marching  column. 


EL  SAGRARIO. 


Mexico.  29 

But  that  was  in  the  good  old  time,  which  I  am  old  enough 
to  have  seen,  when  priests  and  monks,  their  heads  covered  with 
huge  hats,  a  la  Don  Basilio,  filled  the  streets  with  their  portly, 
dignified  figures,  their  faces  ever  open  to  a  smile.  That  time 
has  gone  by ;  monks  and  priests,  shorn  of  their  dress  and 
privileges,  have  disappeared  and  become  private  citizens.  The 
Church  on  that  occasion  was  not  proceeded  against  by  slow 
degrees  ;  the  Government,  feeling  at  home  in  a  country  peculiarly 
religious  and  Catholic,  decreed  on  the  same  day  the  suppression 
of  all  religious  communities,  the  confiscation  of  their  goods,  and 
the  disestablishment  of  the  Church,  and  though  a  large  majority 
mildly  protested,  nobody  cared  ;  not  so  the  monks  and  priests, 
who  whirled  anathemas  and  fulminated  the  excommunicalio  maxima 
against  whomsoever  should  lend  a  hand  to  the  demolition  of 
the  convents — nay,  even  against  those  who  would  be  found 
bold  enough  to  pass  through  the  streets  thus  opened  on  eccle- 
siastical property.  The  Leperos,  however,  engaged  in  these 
demolitions,  had  recourse  to  an  ingenious  device  to  nullify  the 
spiritual  thunderbolts  of  their  ancient  patrons.  They  bedizened 
themselves  with  amulets,  scapularies,  and  chaplets  as  a  protection 
against  the  wiles  of  the  devil,  and  thus  attired  they  proceeded  gaily 
to  the  destruction  of  cell  and  chapel,  whilst  weeping  duefias, 
indignant  at  being  witnesses  of  such  sacrilege,  poured  out  their 
unavailing   supplications. 

The  excitement  lasted  but  a  week,  and  the  Leperos  thought 
so  little  of  it  that  they  did  not  refrain  from  bearing  away  to  their 
housewives  the  wainscoting  of  the  religious  houses,  and  the  newly 
made  streets  were  used   like  any  others. 

But  it  will  be  asked,  what  of  the  monks  ?  Most  have  become 
citizens  and  taken  wives,  and  are  now  heads  of  families  ;  some 
have  gone  into  exile ;  whilst  others  are  business  men.  I  have 
even  met  a  few,   who,  having  turned  Protestants,  were  employed 


30  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

as  guides  by  the  Boston  and  New  York  Biblical  Missions.  As 
for  the  clergy,  contrary  to  the  received  opinion  that  on  being 
deprived  of  their  emoluments  and  tithes  they  would  be  richer 
than  before,  they  have  become  as  poor  as  their  vows  require, 
as  humble  as  they  profess,  reading  their  services  as  heretofore 
to  crowded  congregations,  and  every  one  is  or  seems  to  be 
satisfied. 

But  to  return  to  our  edifices.  The  Church  and  Convent 
of  S.  Domingo  (Dominick)  stands  in  Custom  House  Square, 
blocked  up  at  all  times  by  carriages,  carts,  mules,  and  a  motley 
crowd.  At  this  point,  when  prommciamentos  were  the  rule, 
rebels  used  to  take  their  stand,  and  sheltered  behind  the  high 
steeples  of  the  church,  shot  at  their  fellow-citizens  lodged  on 
the  azoteas  (flat  roofs)  of  the  neighbouring  houses.  They  did 
their  work  so  often  and  so  well  that  the  desolation  of  these 
cloisters  is  complete.  The  pictures  which  once  were  their  chief 
ornament  are  mostly  in  holes,  and  the  walls  blackened  with  shot 
and  powder.  S.  Domingo  has  the  hardly  enviable  privilege 
of  having  been  the  seat  of  the  Inquisition.  Here,  in  1646, 
the  terrible  tribunal  celebrated  its  first  aiUo-da-fe,  when  forty- 
eight  persons  were  burnt  at  the  stake.  These  human  sacrifices, 
which  were  only  abolished  at  the  beginning  of  this  century,  were 
not  better  than  the  revolting  practices  of  the  Aztecs,  save  that 
Catholic  priests  were  content  to  burn  their  victims  without  eating 
them,  but  to  make  up  for  this  they  branded  them  with  eternal 
infamy. 

The  Convent  of  S.  Francisco,  which  at  one  time  extended 
over  fifteen  acres  of  ground,  is  situated  between  the  street  bearing 
the  same  name  and  S.  Juan  de  Latran  y  Zuletta  Street.  It  is 
intersected  by  beautiful  cloisters,  courts,  and  gardens,  and  was 
formerly  the  most  important  as  well  as  the  richest  convent  in 
Mexico  :  having  two  churches,  the  interiors  of  which  were  adorned 


Mexico.  31 

with  gigantic  altars  of  ftncly-carved  gilt  wood  ;  three  exquisite 
chapels,  and  elegant  cloisters  covered  with  pictures,  thus 
formino-    one    of   the    most    remarkable    monuments    in     Mexico. 

o 

But  alas  !  all  that  wealth  is  gone,  the  ruthless  hand  of  democracy 
has  pulled  down  cell  and  chapel  ;  streets  run  in  places  once 
occupied  by  its  altars  ;  its  flower-beds  are  turned  into  a  nursery- 
garden,  and  its  silent  cells  are  tenanted  by  poor  families,  whose 
women  and  children  fill  the  air  with  their  shrill  and  discordant 
voices.  All  that  remains  is  the  fa9ade,  with  its  magnificent 
gate — a  curious  mixture  of  Renaissance  pilasters,  covered  with 
figures  in  high  relief,  surmounted  with  composite  capitals,  divided 
by  niches  adorned  with  statues,  besides  a  marvellous  wealth  of 
ornamentation,  not  in  the  best  taste,  but  highly  finished.  Their 
chief  interest,  however,  lies  in  their  being  the  work  of  the  Indians, 
rather  than  the  production  of  a  Spanish  chisel.  Indians,  according 
to  Mendieta,  were  no  contemptible  artists  ;  "  with  tools  made  of 
tin  and  copper,  they  could  cut  not  only  metals,  but  the  hardest 
substances.  They  carved  their  vessels  of  gold  and  silver,  with 
their  metallic  chisels,  in  a  very  delicate  manner.  They  imitated 
the  figures  of  animals,  and  could  mix  the  metals  in  such  a  manner, 
that  the  feathers  of  a  bird,  or  the  scales  of  a  fish,  should  be 
alternately  of  gold  and   silver." 

They  worked  the  various  stones  and  alabasters  with  guijarros 
(a  tool  made  of  silex  and  flint),  in  the  construction  of  their  public 
buildings,  entrances  and  angles  of  which  were  frequendy  orna- 
mented with  images,  sometimes  of  their  fantastic  and  hideous 
deities.  Sculptured  images  were  so  numerous,  that  the  foundations 
of  the  Cathedral  in  the  Plaza  Mayor  are  said  to  be  entirely 
composed  of  them.'"'  They  also  painted  from  nature,  birds,  fish, 
and  landscape,   and  after  their   conversion   to    Christianity,    says 


*  Geronimo  Mendieta,  Historia  Ecclesiastica  Indiana,  lib.  iv.  chap.  xii. 


32 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


Mendieta,    they    reproduced    admirably  our    images    and    reredos 
from   Flanders  and   Italy. 

The    religion    of   the    Aztecs    imposed    upon     their    followers 
certain   forms,   in  their  delineation    of  the   human  figure,   or  the 


CLOISTER   OF   'I'HE   CONVENT   OK    l.A    MERCKD. 


personification  of  the  Deity,  which  they  were  not  permitted  to 
discard  ;  this  explains  why  we  find  so  many  rude  images  side  by 
side   with   the   most  excjuisite  work  of  ornamentation. 

Ikit  to  return.      No  one  would  stop  to  look  at  the  Convent 
dc  la  Merced  v^QXv.   it  not   for  its   cloisters,  the   finest  in   Mexico; 


Mexico.  ss 

they  are  composed  of  white,  slender  columns,  in  Moorish  style, 
with  indented  arches,  forming  galleries  which  surround  a  paved 
court,  the  centre  of  which  is  occupied  by  an  insignificant 
fountain. 

The  Convent  stands  in  the  middle  of  a  densely  populated 
suburb,  forniinp-  a  strikinsf  contrast  to  the  tumult  and  hubbub 
outside.  The  feeling  of  profound  desolation  which  is  felt  at 
gazing  on  these  walls  is  beyond  description,  for  the  silence  is 
only  broken  in  the  rare  intervals  when  an  agtiador  comes  to 
fill  his  cantaros  and  chochocoles  (earthen  pots  and  jars)  at  the 
fountain.  The  white  picturesque  tunic  of  the  monks  which 
relieved  the  solitude  of  these  endless  galleries  has  for  ever  dis- 
appeared, and  now  its  vast  passages  only  give  access  to  empty 
cells. 

The  walls  of  the  galleries  are  covered  with  innumerable 
pictures,  the  figures  in  which  are  of  life-size,  representing  martyrs 
of  the  order  of  S.  Domingo  and  its  most  celebrated  saints.  They 
are  not  pleasant  to  look  at,  presenting  to  the  eye  nothing  but 
distortions,  funeral  piles  and  dislocations ;  all  the  tortures,  in 
fact,  which  the  perverted  ingenuity  of  man  has  devised  to  harass 
his  fellow-creatures.  Among  them,  some  are  lifting  to  heaven 
their  gory  heads,  whose  blood  is  streaming  down  to  their  feet, 
whilst  others  are  stretching  out  their  freshly-stunted  arms  and 
calcined  limbs.  At  no  time  can  the  priests  of  Huitzilopochtli 
have  sanctioned  more  harrowing  suffering,  or  consented,  in  their 
religious  frenzy,   to  more  revolting  practices. 

The  Convent  de  la  Merced  used  to  possess  a  good  library, 
and  many  precious  manuscripts  of  Indian  antiquity ;  but  the 
superstitious  ignorance  of  the  monks  allowed  it  to  fall  into 
decay,  and  documents  of  highest  interest  to  the  historian  and 
archaeologist  were  used  as  waste-paper  or  consigned  to  the 
flames. 


;4 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


The  choir  of  this  church  had  one  hundred  seats  of  carved 
oak,  and  was  considered  one  of  the  finest  in  the  world.  The 
Government  is  converting  the  church  into  a  hbrary,  which, 
when  completed,  is  expected  to  be  one  of  the  finest  monuments 
of  the  city. 

Among  buildings  of  public  usefulness,  the  School  of  Mines, 
El  Salto  del  Agua,  Chapultepec  Military  College,  the  Art 
Academy,  and  the   Museum  may  be  mentioned. 


MEXICAN    MONKS. 


A 


■■*"C^S 


'Mmm^-ni  Mir    ^=^^j 


<,M-^^^   ^^^  W, 


.  ^l^-'^Z.^^ 


C:^...  4^.. 


;,  J--- 


EL   SALTO    DF.L    AiiL'A    (IOUNTAIN). 


CHAPTER    III. 


THE    INDIANS. 

El  Salto  del  Agua— Netzahualcoyotl— Noche  triste— Historical  Jottings— Chapul- 
tepec  —  Indians  —  Chinampas  —  Legends  —  Anecdote  —  Mexican  Museum— 
Tizoc's  Stone,  or  Gladiator's  Stone— Yoke  and  Sacrificial  Stone— Holy  War- 
Religious  Cannibalism — American  Copper. 

El  Salto  del  Agua  is  the  only  monumental  fountain  in  Mexico  ; 
it  stands  in  the  centre  of  a  low  suburb  removed  from  the  chiet 
thoroughfares,  and  terminates  the  aqueduct  which  brings  from 
Chapultepec  ("grasshopper's  hill")  an  abundant  supply  of  water 
to  Mexico.  El  Salto  del  Agua  is  an  oblong  building,  with  a 
very  mediocre  fa9ade  ;  a  wide  spread-eagle  in  the  centre  supports 
the  escutcheon  bearing  the  arms  of  the  city.  On  each  side 
twisted  columns  with  Corinthian  capitals  bear  two  symbolical 
figures,  representing  Europe  and  America,  besides  eight  half- 
broken  vases. 


2,6  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

According  to  historians  ol  the  conquest,  El  Salto  del  Agua, 
and  the  Aqueduct  which  it  terminates,  replaced  the  ancient 
aqueduct  of  Montezuma,  constructed  by  Netzahualcoyotl,  King 
of  Tezcuco.  between  the  years  1427  and  1440.  At  that  time 
it  was  brought  through  an  earthen  pipe  to  the  city,  along  a 
dyke  constructed  for  the  purpose,  and  that  there  might  be  no 
failure  in  so  essential  an  article,  a  double  course  of  pipes  in 
stone  and  mortar  was  laid.  In  this  way  a  column  of  water 
the  size  of  a  man's  body  was  conducted  into  the  heart  of  the 
capital,  where  it  fed  fountains  and  reservoirs  of  the  principal 
mansions.'"* 

Since  the  name  of  Netzahualcoyotl  has  been  mentioned,  it 
may  not  be  out  of  place  to  give  a  brief  account  of  a  prince  whose 
accomplishments,  character,  and  adventurous  life,  would  make 
him  a  fit  hero  for  romance  rather  than  the  subject  of  sober 
history.  He  was  descended  from  the  Toltecs,  of  whom  we 
shall  speak  later.  He  ruled  over  the  Acolhuans  or  Tezcucans, 
as  they  were  generally  called,  a  nation  of  the  same  family  as 
the  Aztecs,  whom  it  preceded  on  the  plateau,  and  whom  it  rivalled 
in  power  and  surpassed  in  intellectual  activity.  He  was  himself 
at  once  king,  poet,  philosopher,  and  lawgiver,  and  was  a 
munificent  patron  of  letters,  and  Tezcuco  was,  in  his  time,  the 
meeting-place  of  all  that  was  intelligent  in  Anahuac,  as  was 
Athens  in  the  days  of  Pericles,  Florence  and  Rome  under  the 
Medicis.  Netzahualcoyotl  held  a  conspicuous  place  among  the 
bards  of  Anahuac,  for  the  tender  pathos  of  his  verse,  the  elegance 
and  rich  colouring  of  his  style,  and  the  tinge  of  melancholy  which 
pervades  most  of  his  writings.  His  large  and  enlightened  mind 
could  not  accept  the  superstitions  of  his  countrymen,  still  less 
the  sanguinary  rites   of  the   Aztecs  ;    his  humane  temper  shrank 

*  Claviucro. 


Tin:   Indians.  37 

from  their  cruel  rites,  and  he  endeavoured  to  recall  his  people 
to  the  more  pure  and  simple  worship  of  their  forefathers.  But 
he  shared  the  fate  of  men  far  In  advance  of  their  time,  and 
had  to  yield  before  their  ignorance  and  fanaticism,  contenting 
himself  with  publicly  avowing  his  faith  and  nobler  conception  of 
the  deity.  He  built  a  temple  in  the  usual  pyramidal  form,  to 
the  "  Unknown  God,  the  Cause  of  Causes.'' 

Though   Netzahualcoyotl  was  of  a  benevolent  disposition,  he 
was  strict  In  the  administration  of  the  laws,  even  against  his  own 
children ;    Indeed,    he    put    to    death    his    two    sons    for    having 
appropriated  other  people's  booty.     Many  anecdotes  are   told  ot 
the   benevolent  interest  he   took  In  his  subjects,  amongst  whom 
he  delighted  to  wander  in  disguise,  and,  like   Haroun-al-RaschId, 
entered  freely  in  conversation  with  them,  thus  ascertaining  their 
Individual   wants.      His   last    days   were   spent   in    the   pursuit    ot 
astronomical  studies  and  the  contemplation  of  the  future  life.      He 
died  full  of  days  after  a  reign  of  nearly  fifty  years,  during  which 
he  had  freed  his  country  from  a  foreign  tyrant,  breathed  new  lite 
Into    the    nation,    renewed    its    ancient    institutions,    and    seen    it 
advancing  towards  a  higher  standard  of  civilisation  ;  and  he  saw 
his  end  approach  with  the  same  serenity  that  he  had  shown  alike 
In    misfortune    and    In    prosperity.     Such    is    the    very   imperfect 
account  of  a  prince  who  was  the  glory  of  his  nation  ;  whose  muse, 
by  turns.   Invited  men  to  enjoy  the  passing  hour,  or  bade  them 
beware  of  the  vanity  of  all  earthly  pleasures,   teaching  them  to 
look  beyond  the  grave  for  things  that  will  endure. 

But  before  we  go  on  to  Chapultepec,  we  must  call  at  Tacuba, 
and  visit  the  famous  Ahuahuete,  a  kind  of  cypress,  under  whose 
shelter  Cortez,  on  the  night  of  July  i,  1520,  came  to  rest  his 
weary  limbs  and  mourn  over  the  cause  which  had  so  greatly 
imperilled  his  safety  and  that  of  his  troops,  as  to  make  Imperative 
the    evacuation    of    Mexico,    in    which    many   of   his    most   trusty 


38 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


TREE  OF  THE   NOCHE  TRISTE,  AT  POPOTLAN. 


veterans  were  sacrificed.     The  nlofht  was  called  on  this  account 
Noche  trisle,   "Melancholy  ni<j^ht." 

But  to  explain.     We  will  give  a  short  sketch  of  the  causes 


TiiK   Indians.  39 


which  brought  about  this  sad  event,  quoting  largely  from   Father 
Duran,    Ramirez,   and   Sahagun  : 

"It  was  in  the  month  of  May,  the  Mexican  toxcail,  when  it 
was  common  for  the  Aztecs  to  celebrate  their  great  annual  festival 
in  honour  of  their  war-god  Htiitzilopochtli,  which  was  com- 
memorated by  sacrifice,  religious  songs  and  dances,  in  which  all 
the  nobility  engaged,  displaying  their  magnificent  gala  costumes, 
with  their  brilliant  mantles  of  feather- work,  sprinkled  with  precious 
stones,  and  their  necks,  arms,  and  legs  ornamented  with  collars 
and  bracelets  of  gold.  Alvarado,  whom  Cortez  had  left  as 
lieutenant  of  his  forces,  during  his  expedition  against  his  for- 
midable enemy,  Narvaez,  was  now  petitioned  by  the  Indian 
caciques  to  be  allowed  to  perform  their  rites.  Alvarado 
acquiesced  on  condition  that  on  this  occasion  there  should  be 
no  human  sacrifice,  and  that  they  should  come  without  weapons  ; 
he  and  his  soldiers,  meanwhile,  attended  as  spectators,  some  of 
them  taking  station  at  the  gates,  as  if  by  chance.  They  were 
all  fully  armed,  but  as  this  was  usual,  it  excited  no  suspicion  ; 
but  as  soon  as  the  festival,  which  was  held  in  the  court  of  the 
great  temple,  had  fairly  begun,  and  the  Mexicans  were  engrossed 
by  the  exciting  movement  of  the  dance,  and  their  religious  chants, 
Alvarado  and  his  followers,  at  a  concerted  signal,  rushed  with 
drawn  swords  on  their  defenceless  victims.  Unprotected  by 
armour  or  weapon  of  any  kind,  they  were  hewn  down  without 
resistance  by  their  pitiless  and  bloodthirsty  assailants.  Some  fled 
to  the  gates,  but  were  thrust  back  by  the  pikes  of  the  soldiers  ; 
some  were  able  to  scale  the  walls ;  others,  penetrating  the 
sanctuary  of  the  temple,  fell  on  the  pavement  and  simulated  death. 
The  pavement  ran  with  streams  of  blood,  '  like  water  in  a  heavy 
shower,'  and  the  ground  was  strewn  with  the  mutilated  limbs  of 
the  dead.  The  Spaniards,  not  content  with  slaughtering  their 
victims,   rifled   them   of   their  precious   ornaments.     On  this   sad 


40  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

day  were  sacrificed  more  than  six  hundred  men,  the  flower  of 
the  Mexican  nobihty  ;  not  a  family  of  note  but  had  to  mourn 
the  loss  of  a  near  relation.  The  tidings  of  this  horrible  butchery 
filled  the  nation  with  stupefaction  and  dismay  ;  they  could  hardly 
believe  their  senses.  Every  feeling  of  long-smothered  hostility 
and  rancour  now  burst  forth  in  a  cry  for  vengeance.  The  respect 
for  the  person  of  their  sovereign  made  them  desist  from  further 
attempts  to  storm  the  fortress.  But  they  threw  up  works  around 
the  Palace  to  prevent  the  Spaniards  from  getting  out.  They 
suspended  the  market,  to  preclude  the  possibility  of  their  enemy 
obtaining  supplies.  This  accomplished,  they  quietly  sat  down, 
waiting  for  the  time  when  famine  would  deliver  the  hated  foreigner 
into  their  hands.  The  situation  of  the  Spaniards  seemed  desperate, 
when  they  were  relieved  from  their  gloomy  apprehensions  by  the 
return  of  Cortez,  who  with  his  comrades  had  succeeded  in  utterly 
crushing  Narvaez.  It  was  not  too  soon  :  a  few  days  more  and 
the  garrison  must  have  surrendered  from  lack  of  provisions,  and 
still  more  from  want  of  water.  Alvaraclo  was  subjected  to  a 
cross  -  examination  by  Cortez,  who  contented  himself  with 
administering  some  words  of  reproof,  and  ordering  him  to  his 
post;  for  the  city  again  rose  to  arms.  In  this  terrible  strait, 
Cortez  sent  to  the  Aztec  Emperor  to  request  him  to  mediate 
with  his  subjects.  Meanwhile  the  Spaniards  endeavoured  to 
effect  a  retreat  out  of  a  city  thoroughly  roused  against  them. 
This  they  accomplished  under  cover  of  a  dark,  drizzling  night, 
after  a  fearful  carnage  and  much  bloodshed,  lasting  over  several 
days  ;  when  the  Spanish  troops,  accompanied  by  their  Tlascalan 
allies,  abandoned  a  city  which  had  been  so  lately  the  scene  of 
their  triumphs,  and  each  soldier,  loaded  with  as  much  gold  and 
jewels  as  he  could  carry,  made  for  the  gates.  All  was  hushed  in 
silence  ;  no  danger  seeming  to  arrest  their  march,  they  were 
beginning  to  hope  that  a  few  hours  would  see  them   beyond  the 


The  Indians.  41 


missiles  of  the  enemy.  But,  as  they  drew  near  the  bridges  of 
Tlascopan  Street,  they  were  assailed  by  thousands  of  Mexicans, 
and  amidst  a  fearful  tumult  and  destructive  confusion,  followed 
by  shouts  of  impotent  rage  from  the  combatants  and  moans  from 
the  severely  wounded,  in  which  the  best  among  the  Spaniards 
lay  buried  in  the  murky  waters  of  the  canals,  or  fallen  under  the 
axes  of  the  Mexicans,  the  Spanish  leaders,  followed  by  the 
disordered  remnant  of  their  troops,  were  allowed  to  defile  to  an 
adjacent  village  called  Popotla,  where  Cortez,  on  beholding  their 
thinned  ranks  and  deplorable  condition,  gave  vent  to  the  anguish 
of  his  soul. 

Cortez'  fame  has  been  much  overrated  ;  he  was  fortunate  rather 
than  great,  for  he  was  powerfully  assisted  at  the  very  outset  by 
the  friendly  attitude  of  the  Indians,  who  welcomed  in  him  the 
Deliverer  long  foretold  in  their  legends,  who  was  to  rescue  them 
from  the  thraldom  and  heavy  burdens  imposed  upon  them  by  the 
Aztec  monarchs,  to  enable  them  to  carry  on  their  warlike  enter- 
prises and  policy  of  annexation.  He  was  helped,  moreover,  by 
two  intelligent  interpreters,  Aguilar  and  Marina,  in  his  intercourse 
with  the  natives  ;  Marina  proving  subsequently  a  devoted  friend, 
and  a  faithful  and  skilful  negotiator  with  the  Indians.  It  is 
equally  certain  that,  from  purely  selfish  motives  of  personal  con- 
venience and  policy,  as  also  to  gratify  the  cruel  rapacity  of  his 
followers,  he  not  only  allowed,  but  even  ordered  acts  of  bloodshed 
and  treachery  which  must  for  ever  stain  his  character.  His 
courage  cannot  be  doubted  ;  yet  his  conduct  in  the  expedition  to 
Honduras,  his  pusillanimity  on  his  return,  argue  a  poor  politician  ; 
whilst  the  revolting  massacres  at  Cholula  and  Mexico  sink  into 
shade  when  compared  with  the  murder  of  Guatemozin.  Las  Casas, 
who  knew  him  well,  calls  him  "that  fellow;"  which  term  of 
reproach  is  more  opprobrious  than  a  worse  epithet. 

But  these  things  have  detained  us  too  long   already  ;    let  us 


42  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World, 


now  proceed  to  Chapultepec,  one  of  the  most  delightful  spots 
in  the  Mexican  valley.  Two  roads,  the  Paseo  Nuevo  and  the 
tramway,  lead  to  it ;  we  will  take  the  latter  as  shorter  and  cheaper, 
which,  starting  from  the  Place  d'Armes,  goes  through  Belen  gate, 
and  sets  us  down  at  the  very  entrance  of  the  Castle.  Chapultepec, 
"grasshopper  hill,"  is  a  volcanic  hill  some  1,625  feet  long,  and 
100  feet  high,  covered  with  luxurious  vegetation,  crowned  with 
groves  of  cypresses,  ahitahuetes,  some  of  which  are  seventy-five 
feet  in  diameter,  and  seem  to  defy  the  decay  of  ages.'" 

The  view  from  the  windows  of  the  Palace,  which  stands  on 
the  top  of  the  hill,  embracing  the  valley  of  Mexico,  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  the  world.  In  the  highly  rarefied  atmosphere  of 
these  upper  regions,  even  distant  objects  have  a  brilliancy  of 
colouring  and  a  distinctness  of  outline  which  enables  one  to 
take  in  the  details  of  this  marvellous  panorama,  studded  with 
towns  and  hamlets,  the  white  walls  of  which,  together  with  the 
tops  of  porphyry  rocks,  glimmer  in  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Stretching 
far  away  at  their  feet  are  seen  noble  forests  of  oak,  sycamore,  and 
cedar,  whilst  beyond,  cultivated  fields,  beautiful  gardens,  lakes, 
and  lagoons,  girdle  the  valley  around.  Looking  towards  Mexico, 
the  spectator  has  behind  him  the  low  chain  de  las  Cruces  ;  on  his 
right,  to  the  south,  Ped regal  and  the  Ajuscean  hills  ;  before  him, 
to  the  east,  the  grand  snowy  tops  of  Popocatepetl,  "the  hill 
of  smoke,"  and  Iztaccihuatl,  "  White  Woman,"  from  its  bright 
robe  of  snow  ;  on  his  left  to  the  north,  Cerro  Gordo,  and  nearer, 
the  Sierra  Guadalupe,  where  stands  the  most  celebrated  sanctuary 
of  Mexico,  dedicated  to  the  Virgin. 

This   chapel   rises  on    the   site   once   occupied   by   the   famous 
temple  of  Toci — the  mother  of  a  god — whose  altars  were  thronged 

*  According  to  IJustamentc,  Netzahualcoyotl  was  the  owner  of  Chapultepec,  and 
planted  the  great  ahuahiiclcs,  from  1425  to  1440.  But  it  is  more  logical  to  suppose 
that  it  was  a  Toltec  plantation  dating  back  to  the  ninth  century. 


TiJK  Indians.  43 


at  all  times  by  multitudes  of  devotees.  To  induce  the  Indians 
to  welcome  the  Virgin  Mary  as  their  tutelar  divinity,  the  priests 
took  care  to  represent  her  with  a  dark  complexion  and  the  courtly 
robes  worn  by  noble  Mexican  maidens  in  their  time  of  prosperity. 
The  story  of  the  Aztec  Virgin  is  so  characteristic  of  the  sanguinary 
instincts  of  the  people  who  raised  her  to  the  rank  of  a  deity,  that 
we  will  tell  it. 

The  Mexicans,   after   a  series  of  wanderings  and  adventures, 
during  which  they  endured  all  the  hardships  of  a  migratory  life, 
succeeded   at   length   in    establishing    themselves    on    the    muddy 
islets  of  the  principal  lake,   in  the  year   1325.      Here  they  raised 
a   temple    to    their    war-god,     Huitzilopochtli,    on     whose    altars 
human  sacrifices  were  offered.      Prisoners  were  generally  reserved 
for  this  purpose,  but  in  times  of  public  calamity  the  god  required 
the  best  of  the  land.      It  is  told  how  on  one  occasion,  the  oracle 
of    Huitzilopochtli    demanded    that  a    Royal    Princess  should    be 
sacrificed   to   him  ;    and   how  the  Aztec  monarch  sent  to  one   of 
his   vassals,    the   King  of  Colhuacan,    to   petition   for  one  of  his 
daughters  to  become  the  mother  of  the  tutelar  god — and  as  such 
share    with    him    divine    honours.       The     King    of    Colhuacan, 
flattered  by  the  honour  reserved   for  his  daughter,  unable  besides 
to  refuse,  confided  the  young  Princess  to   the  care  of  the  Aztec 
envoys,    who  escorted    her   with  great   pomp  to    the  city   where 
she  was  sacrificed,  her  skin  being  taken  ofT  after  death  to  clothe 
the  young  priest  who  was  to  represent  the  deity  in  this  solemnity. 
The    cruelty    was    carried   so    far    as  to    invite  the   father  to    be 
present  at  the  bitter  mockery  of  his  child's  deification  ;  he  came, 
penetrated  the   sanctuary,   but   at   first   the  gloom  of  the   temple 
did   not  let  him   see  anything,   until   he  was  given  a   copal-gum 
torch,   the    fiame    of   which    bursting    up    suddenly  revealed    the 
horrible   picture    of  the  young    priest  standing  close   to    the  idol 
and   receiving  the   homage    of   the    multitude.       The   skin    fitted 


44 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


so  tightly  that  the  monarch  recognised  his  daughter's  mask,  and 
almost  mad  with  grief  he  fled  the  temple  to  mourn  for  his 
murdered  child.'" 

The  Mexican  valley  was  occupied  successively  by  various  tribes, 
which  advancing  from  the  north  and  north-west,  entered  the  country 
towards  the  end  of  the  seventh  century.  The  first  and  most 
remarkable  of  these,   both  from   the  mildness  of  their  character 


CHAPULTEPEC. 


and  the  degree  of  their  civilisation,  were  the  Toltecs,  who  occu- 
pied Chapultepec  as  early  eis  the  eighth  century,  and  established 
their  capital  at  Tula,  north  of  the  Mexican  valley,  whose  name 
Toltcc  was  synonymous  with  architect.  After  a  time,  a  rude  tribe, 
the  Ckichcmecs,  entered  the  territory  and  were  soon  followed  by 
other  races,  amongst  which  were  the  Aztecs  or  Mexicans,  and 
the  Acolhuans  or  Tczciuans.     .Some  of  these  obtained  leave  from 


Clavigero,  "  Historia  Antigua,"  vol.  i.  p.  75.     R;imiicz,  chap.  iv.  p.  120. 


Tin:  Indians. 


45 


'lii'llTit 

piWilllll1MlMIWIiiyMilllMlllillliilfiBm|iii,'^ "'«! 1 1 1  . 1 1 i]v 


C  i\at/jA-r. 


CHARCOAL    AND    BATTEAS    VENDORS. 


Xolotl,  King  of  the  Chichemecs,  to  settle  on  Chapultepec,  which 
in  the  course  of  time  became  a  royal  residence,  and  a  royal  burial- 
place,    whilst  its   rocks  were   made  to   transmit    to    posterity  the 


46  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

features  of  the  Mexican  monarchs,  Azayacoatl  and  the  two 
Montezumas,  together  with  the  sons  of  the  last  Aztec  emperor ; 
two  statues  of  this  monarch  and  his  father  were  to  be  seen  as 
late  as  the  last  century,  when  they  were  destroyed  by  order  of 
the  Government. 

Father  Duran  tells  how  Montezuma  I.  had  himself  and 
his  first  minister  sculptured.  Feeling  that  his  end  was  draw- 
ing near,  he  summoned  the  doughty  warrior  Tlacael,  who  for 
three  reigns  had  shown  his  valour  on  the  field  of  battle  and 
his  wisdom  in  council :  "  Brother  Tlacael,"  said  the  monarch, 
"  it  would  be  well  that  our  names  and  persons  should  be  graven 
on  the  rock  of  Chapultepec,  and  thus  pass  to  posterity."  "  Your 
wish,  most  noble  king,  shall  instantly  be  obeyed."  And  calling 
together  the  most  renowned  sculptors,  Tlacael  imparted  to  them 
the  royal  command.  In  a  few  days  two  bas-reliefs  were  executed, 
so  striking  in  resemblance,  and  so  exquisite  in  workmanship,  as 
to  surprise  Montezuma  himself. 

The  Castle,  which  was  built,  by  the  Viceroy  Galvaez  at  the 
close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  was  transformed  into  a  Military 
School  by  the  Government  in  1841  ;  Maximilian  during  his  short 
reign  altered  it,  and  made  it  his  favourite  residence.  The  Palace 
is  once  more  occupied  by  the  Military  College,  whose  pupils 
have  shown  themselves  worthy  of  it,  by  their  heroic  defence  at 
the  time  of  the  American  war.  An  observatory  has  been  lately 
built,  at  the  expense  of  the  Government, 

Ikit  it  is  time  to  return  to  Mexico,  where  we  shall  find  the 
Indian  pretty  much  what  he  was  three  or  four  hundred  years 
ago.  This  arises  from  his  having  been  subjected,  from  the 
earliest  times,  lo  Azlec  rule  and  the  severe  discipline  of  its  priests 
and  afterwards  to  the  still  more  cruel  and  unjust  yoke  of  the 
Spaniards,  who,  by  depriving  him  of  civil  rights  and  all  his 
goods,  degraded   him   to   the  low  rank  he   now  occupies.      Before 


The  Indians.  47 


the  conquest  the  people  was  divided  in  three  distinct  and  almost 
equally  honourable  classes,  land  proprietors,  warriors,  and 
merchants ;  but  the  conquerors,  reserving  for  themselves  all 
these  good  things,  restricted  the  Indians  to  the  occupations  of 
macehual  (tiller  of  the  ground),  or  tamene  (porter),  that  is,  a 
beast  of  burden,  used  by  marching  armies  or  merchants  in 
their  distant  expeditions  ;  and,  although  all  careers  are  now 
opened  to  him,  he  is  slow  to  avail  himself  of  his  newly-acquired 
privileges. 

As  an  agiiador,  he  still  conveys  water  to  every  household,  in 
jars,  which  he  carries  one  behind,  the  other  in  front,  supported 
by  leather  thongs  covering  his  head  ;  as  a  vendor  he  brings  coals 
in  nets  made  of  aloe  strings  ;  his  earthenware,  poultry,  eggs, 
vegetables,  in  huacales  or  cases  made  of  twigs,  kept  together  by 
strings  ;  and,  indeed,  his  tools,  kitchen  utensils  and  the  like,  are 
the  same  as  he  formerly  used.  The  only  alteration  he  has  made 
in  his  costume  has  been  to  adopt  nether  garments,  but  in  the 
Uplands  he  dispenses  with  this  and  is  satisfied  with  his  maxtli, 
"  broad  band."  He  has  not  varied  his  diet,  nor  the  manner  of 
preparing  it ;  the  staple  of  his  food  is  still  Indian  corn,  which  he 
grinds  with  a  inetaie,  granite  roller,  or  bakes  into  flat  cakes, 
tortillas,  in  conials,  or  baking  ovens.  His  vegetables  he  seasons 
highly,  and  on  days  of  festival  he  adds  to  this  simple  fare  a  turkey 
when  he  is  well-to-do,  a  piece  of  pork  when  poor;  his  drink  is 
the  pulque,  the  invention  of  which  dates  nearly  four  hundred 
years  back  ;  his  jacal,  or  hut,  composed  of  sticks  lined  with  clay, 
roofed  with  aloe  leaves,  measuring  at  the  basement  some  seven 
or  ten  feet  square,  is  exactly  the  jacal  of  ancient  chroniclers, 
without  any  pavement,  hardly  any  furniture,  save  some  few  images 
of  saints,  which  have  replaced  the  terra-cotta  household  divinities. 

In  former  times,  when  he  lived  on  the  lagoons,  with  no  right 
to  the  land,  which  was  held  by  his  enemies,  he  satisfied  his  hunger 


48  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


with  frogs  and  serpents,  to  be  found  in  the  marshes,  salamanders, 
flies  and  flies'  eggs,  ahuatli,  which  latter  were  made  into  cakes,  a 
dish  which  was  adopted  by  the  Spaniards ;  and,  when  further 
pressed  by  want  and  dearth,  he  invented  cJiinampas,  those  floating 
gardens  which  so  much  surprised  the  conquerors.  Chinampas 
were  rafts  of  reeds,  rushes,  and  other  fibrous  materials,  which, 
tightly  knit  together,  formed  a  sufficient  basis  for  the  heaps  of 
black  mud  which  the  natives  drew  up  from  the  bottom  of  the 
lake.  Gradually  islands  were  formed,  some  reaching  two  or 
three  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  three  or  four  feet  in  depth,  with 
a  very  rich  soil,  on  which  the  thrifty  Indian  raised  maize  and 
vegetables  for  himself  and  flowers  for  the  market,  his  prince,  and 
his  gods.  Some  of  these  chinampas  were  firm  enough  to  allow 
the  growth  of  small  trees,  and  to  have  a  hut  for  the  owner,  who, 
with  a  long  pole  resting  on  the  sides  or  the  bottom  of  the  shallow 
basin,  could  change  his  position  at  pleasure,  whether  to  move 
from  an  unpleasant  neighbour  or  take  his  family  on  board,  and 
moved  on  like  some  enchanted  island  over  the  water.  In  later 
times  these  floating  gardens  increased  to  such  an  extent  that  they 
completely  girdled  the  city  around  with  flowers  and  verdure,  when 
every  morning  early  numbers  of  boats,  richly  freighted,  would  be 
seen  to  glide  through  the  canals  and  file  out  towards  Plaza 
Mayor.*  Mexico,  since  the  diminution  of  the  lake,  has  become 
a  high  and  dry  city  of  the  main  land,  with  its  centre  nearly  a 
league  distant  from  the  water  ;  chinampas  are  no  more ;  small 
flower-beds,  divided  by  narrow  causeways,  where  the  Indian  still 
mans  his  canoe,  are  all  that  remain  of  the  floating  gardens  of 
olden  time.  Should  the  traveller  wish  to  study  the  natives,  he 
should  go  on  market  days  toward  the  road  which  leads  out  of 
S.  Cosme,  by  which  great  numbers  both  of  men  and  women  enter 

*  Clavigero,  vol.  i.  lib.  vii.  p.  223.      Acosta,  "Historia  de  las  Indias,"  p.  472. 
Cortez,  "  Letters,"  p.  79.     Torquemada,  "  Monarquia  Indiana,"  vol.  n.  p.  483. 


fSl'""' 


\n 


¥       I 


MEXICAN    WATER-CARRIER. 


The  Indians. 


^u^ 


MEXICAN   TORTILLEKA   AND   STRAW   MAT   SELLEKb. 


?i^i)l>\'v^ 


the  city,  their  legs  and  backs  bent  under  burdens  heavier  some- 
times than  an  animal  could  carry.  Indian  women  wear  a  dark 
woollen   petticoat,    striped    with    yellow,    red,   and   green,   and   a 


E    2 


52  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


piece  of  the  same  stuff,  with  an  opening  for  the  head,  covers  the 
bust  and  completes  the  costume.  Notwithstanding  their  rags, 
some  are  not  wanting  in  good  looks,  whilst  most  are  well  made, 
and  were  they  cleanly  and  better  dressed,  many  would  be  found 
strikingly  pretty. 

I  only  speak  of  young  girls,  for  the  old,  covered  with  dirt 
rather  than  rags,  are  generally  to  be  seen  reeling  under  the 
influence  of  pulque.  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that  the  Indian 
has  retained  all  his  primitive  vices,  and  has  added  thereto  those 
given  him  by  his  conquerors.  Though  he  still  preserves  some 
of  his  popular  legends,  it  is  quite  a  chance  if  he  understands 
anything  about  them  ;  for  in  olden  times,  these  were  kept  and 
transmitted  by  the  upper  classes,  which  have  long  ceased  to 
exist,  and  the  modern  Indian  knows  absolutely  nothing  of  his 
past  history. 

And  here,  to  illustrate  my  meaning,  I  may  be  permitted  to 
give  an  example  of  this  marvellous  ignorance,  even  regarding 
recent  events.  I  happened  to  be  in  a  village  situated  on  Lake 
Chalco,  when  a  number  of  Indians  of  both  sexes,  dressed  up  in 
old,  ludicrous  European  costumes,  got  into  boats  and  landed  a 
short  distance  further,  entering  the  village  amidst  a  population 
which  came  out  to  meet  them,  with  cries,  hootings  and  blows, 
finally  forcing  them  to  re-embark.  It  was  evident  to  me  that  this 
represented  an  invasion,  which  had  been  successfully  repulsed, 
referring  perhaps  to  the  war  of  intervention,  but  though  I  asked, 
no  one  was  able  to  enlighten  me,  contenting  themselves  with 
repeating  "  Francia,  Francia,"  At  last  an  old  man  said  that 
the  masquerade  commemorated  an  incident  in  the  Spanish 
war  of  1808,  during  the  first  empire.  And  on  my  ex- 
pressing my  astonishment  at  the  ignorance  of  the  actors  about 
a  subject  they  represented  every  year:  "Are  your  common 
people  much  wiser  when  they  sing  their   Latin  Mass  ?  "  objected 


The   Indians.  53 


my   American    friend.      I    felt   that    I    was   answered,    and    I   was 
silent. 

The  Indian  is  fond  of  money,  his  delight  is  to  hoard,  yet  he  is 
no  better  for  it,  as  regards  his  daily  life  ;  he  has  all  the  instinct  of 
a  miser  without  its  benefit ;  for  your  miser  enjoys  his  money,  he 
visits  it  by  stealth,  spends  his  time  in  counting,  in  contemplating 
it,  whereas  the  Indian  buries  his  hoardings  out  of  sight  ;  the 
satisfaction  of  knowing  that  he  is  rich  is  all-sufficient  for  him,  and 
he  does  not  care  for  the  things  which  his  gold  would  procure. 
The  Valley  of  Oaxaca,  which  for  generations  supplied  the  world 
with  cochineal,  is  supposed  to  have  millions  of  money  buried 
underground.  During  my  residence  there,  I  knew  a  man  who, 
it  was  rumoured,  was  fond  of  hoarding ;  on  one  occasion  he 
received  some  ^200  for  ingots  and  cochineal,  and  two  days  after 
asked  me  for  the  loan  of  four  shillings.  "  Well,  but  what  have 
you  done  with  the  money  you  got  two  days  since  ? "  I  asked. 
"  Esta  colocado,  Senor."  "It's  invested"  (stowed  underground). 
This  secretive  instinct,  however,  is  not  confined  to  the  Indian,  it 
is  to  be  found  among  all  conquered  and  persecuted  races  :  serfs 
under  Louis  XIV.  hid  away  both  their  bread  and  their  money; 
the  inhabitants  of  Indo-China  and  others  only  pay  their  taxes 
under  pressure  of  the  stick.  It  may  be  that  the  thrifty  habit  of 
our  own  middle  classes,  their  wish  to  hoard  for  the  mere  sake  of 
it,  their  aversion  to  part  with  it  for  any  purpose  of  public  good, 
which  forms  such  a  striking  contrast  to  our  Transatlantic  fellow- 
citizens,  is  attributable  to  this  instinct,  which  still  survives  when 
the  need  for  it  has  long  ceased  to  exist.  We  are,  alas,  but  the 
freedmen  of  yesterday,  whereas  Americans  have  now  long  enjoyed 
the  blessings  of  free  institutions,  and  have  besides  the  enormous 
advantage  of  trying  them  in  an  entirely  new  country.  Untram- 
melled alike  by  traditions  or  the  bonds  which  still  fetter  us,  they 
are  able  to  work  out  their  benevolent  or  brilliant  schemes,  con- 


54  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


fident  that  their  intelligence  and  their  industry  will  lead  them  to 
new  paths  of  progress  and  prosperity. 

With  the  Indian  this  same  instinct  borders  on  fanaticism  ; 
the  man  who  finds  a  treasure  covers  it  up  again  carefully,  not 
dreaming  of  making  use  of  it ;  should  he  have  a  confidant,  the 
latter  will  starve,  nay,  go  through  torture,  rather  than  betray 
his  friend.  And  here  I  cannot  resist  the  temptation  of  telling 
an  anecdote  related  to  me  by  a  Mexican  friend  bearing  on  the 
subject:  A  well-to-do  Indian,  who  lived  not  far  from  Mexico, 
had  a  daughter  whom  a  Frenchman  was  willing  to  marry,  in 
the  hope  of  inheriting  the  old  man's  fortune,  which  was  supposed 
to  amount  to  some  ^20,000.  Like  most  Indians,  he  died  in- 
testate, when  a  search  was  made  for  his  money,  but  none 
could  be  found.  His  only  available  property  was  his  cottage 
and  garden.  The  deceased  was  known  to  have  had  a  wretchedly 
poor  friend,  the  confidant  of  all  his  secrets.  He  was  immediately 
applied  to,  and  subjected  to  numerous  questions  by  the  heirs 
regarding  the  money,  and  to  induce  him  to  speak,  they  offered 
the  quarter,  nay,  the  half  of  the  hidden  treasure,  but  he  still 
refused  ;  at  last  they  thought  of  making  him  drunk,  hoping  that 
what  they  had  been  unable  to  obtain  would  be  effected  by  pulque. 
He  was  made  comfortable,  when  he  became  very  confiding,  so 
confiding  that  the  expectant  heir  fully  believed  that  a  moment 
more  would  see  him  the  happy  recipient  of  the  long-treasured-up 
secret,  but  the  poor  man  suddenly  stopped,  horrified  at  what 
he  was  going  to  say,  seeming  to  see  his  friend's  ghost  before 
him,    reproaching  him   for  his  disloyalty. 

We  shall  not  be  taking  leave  of  the  Indian  if  we  pay  a 
visit  to  the  Museum,  where  Aztec  pottery,  Aztec  jewellery,  Aztec 
kings,  and  Aztec  gods  will  remind  us  of  him  everywhere.  The 
Mexican  Museum  cannot  be  called  rich,  in  so  far  that  there  is 
nothinof  remarkable  in  what  the  visitor  is  allowed  to  see.      After 


The  Indians. 


55 


reading  the  glowing  accounts  regarding  Mexican  manufacture 
and  their  marvellous  objects  of  art,  it  was  natural  that  I  should 
be  anxious  to  see  the  jewels,  stuffs,  manuscripts,  and  above  all 
the  paintings  made  with  birds'  feathers,  representing  domestic 
scenes,  and  the  portraits  of  Aztec  monarchs,  but  I  saw  nothing 
in  the  two  large  rooms  devoted  to  Mexican  antiquities.  I  w^as 
told  that  the  Museum  was  not  in  working  order,  that  nothing 
was  classified,  that  more  space  was  being  prepared  in  which 
the  precious  objects  now  shut  up  in  numerous  cases  would  be 
laid  out  for  the  benefit  of  the  public.  It  may  be  so.  For  the 
present,  we  have  to  content  ourselves  with  a  collection  of  obsidian, 
marble,  and  porphyry  heads  ;  a  number  of  large  yokes,  beautifully 
carved,  besides  several  pieces  of  jade,  rock-crystal,  and  bars  of 
gold.  As  for  the  long  rows  of  so-called  "  ancient  vases,"  there 
is  not  one  that  is  not  imitation.  This  I  know  to  my  cost,  for 
with  a  credulity  which  subsequent  events  hardly  justified,  I  no 
sooner  was  told  that  these  vases  were  of  great  antiquity,  than 
I  immediately  ordered  three  hundred  to  be  cast  from  them,  which 
I  caused  to  be  placed  in  the  Trocadero  during  the  Paris  Ex- 
hibition ;  but  on  an  expert  in  such  matters  seeing  them,  he  at 
once  detected  and  exposed  the  fraud,  and  in  my  disappointment 
it  was  not  much  comfort  to  reflect,  that  with  half  the  money 
expended  on  these  comparatively  worthless  objects,  I  might 
have  bought,  close  to  Mexico,  a  whole  collection  of  vases  of 
undoubted  antiquity.  It  is  a  curious  circumstance,  that  Mexicans, 
even  the  best  informed  among  them,  as  well  as  foreigners,  should 
so  often  be  victimised  by  vulgar  forgers  of  antiquities,  who  trade 
on  the  passions  of  the  collector  and  the  gullibility  of  the  public ; 
and  that  such  things  cannot  be  done  in  Europe  without  immediate 
detection,  can  only  arise  from  the  superior  knowledge  of  our 
savants,  and  the  greater  facility  afforded  them  of  observing,  classi- 
fying, and  comparing  the  productions  of  all  the  civilised   nations 


56  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


of  the  world,  in  the  numerous  collections  with  which  our  museums, 
both  public  and  private,  abound.  In  my  own  case,  after  my  ex- 
cavations, I  never  could  have  been  so  grossly  imposed  upon 
by  pottery  modern  in  shape,  over  which  ancient  bas-reliefs  had 
been  incongruously  reproduced,  forming  a  monstrous  medley 
of  things  old  and  new,  without  any  originality  whatever.  Their 
history  is  this  :  the  manufacture  was  carried  out  on  a  large  scale 
at  Tlatiloco,  a  Mexican  suburb,  between  1820  and  1828,  and 
the  author  must  have  realised  an  enormous  fortune,  if  we  are 
to  judge  from  the  quantity  which  he  sent  broadcast  into  the  world 
— most  museums,  nearly  all  private  collections  are  infested  with 
them,  whilst  a  great  number  are  even  now  bought  by  the  unwary. 
The  thing  was  done  in  this  way.  Vases  of  every  shape  were 
chosen,  without  much  thought  or  care,  relying  on  the  ignorance 
and  the  stupidity  of  the  public  ;  every  form  was  used,  whether 
a  common  water-jug,  a  flat  or  round  vase,  a  rude  or  shapely 
jar,  and  by  means  of  ancient  moulds  found  in  vast  quantities 
in  the  whole  area  of  the  valley,  heads,  images,  tiny  figures, 
whistles,  geometrical  designs,  palm-leaves,  etc.,  were  inlaid  on 
the  object,  which  had  a  simple,  double,  or  treble  twisted  handle 
according  to  its  size  ;  it  was  a  tripod  with  a  gaping  mouth,  or 
topped  with  arabesque,  when  the  occasion  served.  Variety  was 
its  distinctive  merit  ;  and  when  completed  this  fine  work  of  art 
was  buried  some  twelve  months  or  more  to  impress  upon  it 
the  hand  of  time,  and  thus  prepared  was  launched  on  its 
course. 

I  trust  that  these  few  observations  will  serve  as  a  warning 
to  people,  and  save  them  from  experience  as  costly  as  my 
own.  Having  now  relieved  my  conscience,  we  will  go  back  to 
the  Museum  and  look  at  what  I  consider  the  finest  portion, 
namely  the  court,  planted  with  beautiful  palm-trees,  shrubs,  and 
flowers,     amongst     which     may     b(;     seen     the     most     interesting 


The  Indians.  59 


specimens  of  the  whole  collection.  First  and  foremost  is  a 
statue  of  a  man  lying  on  his  back,  holding  a  cup  with  both 
hands  and  pressing  it  against  his  body.  It  was  found  at  Chichen- 
Itza,  in  Yucatan,  by  Leplongeon,  an  American  explorer,  who 
was  obliged  to  part  with  it  in  favour  of  the  Mexican  Government, 
in  virtue  of  the  law  which  declares  all  antiquities  to  be  national 
property.  Next  to  this  in  interest  come  two  other  statues,  like 
it  in  all  respects  :  one  discovered  at  Tlascala,  the  other  marked 
"  unknown."  This  similarity  of  objects  of  art  found  among  the 
populations  of  the  plateaux  and  those  of  the  Yucatan  peninsula 
seems  to  point  to  identity  of  worship  among  those  tribes. 
Sanchez,  the  director  of  the  Museum,  believes  this  statue  to  be 
Tetzcatzoncatl,  god  of  wine  ;  but  Perez  and  Dr.  Hamy  are  of 
opinion  that  it  represents  Tlaloc,  god  of  rain,  in  which  view  I 
coincide.  However  that  may  be,  we  will  speak  of  it  at  greater 
length  when  we  come  to  Chichen-Itza,  where  it  was  unearthed. 
On  the  second  plan,  to  the  left,  stands  the  Tlascalan  Tlaloc,  and 
behind  it  Quetzalcoatl,  "the  feathered  serpent,"  tutelar  deity  of 
the  Toltecs,  and  worshipped  by  all  American  tribes  ;  he  came 
to  have  many  names,  and  was  represented  under  various  forms, 
according  to  his  multifarious  attributes.  He  was  the  Zoroaster 
of  Anahuac  ;  "  under  him  the  earth  produced  fruits  and  flowers 
of  its  own  accord.  An  ear  of  Indian  corn  was  as  much  as  a 
man  could  carry.  The  air  was  filled  with  perfumes  and  the 
sweet  melody  of  birds,"  etc. 

At  the  extremity  of  the  court,  to  the  left,  we  find  a  block  of 
serpentine  with  a  magnificent  head  beautifully  sculptured,  marked 
in  the  catalogue  as  "  the  rising  moon,"  but  which  Bustamente 
thinks  to  be  Temascaltoci,  the  goddess  who  presided  over  ablutions, 
and  Chavero,  one  of  the  many  forms  under  which  Quetzalcoatl 
was  represented.  In  the  same  line  with  these  stands  a  huge 
block,  having  a  hideous  figure  of  Death,  Teoyaomiqui  (a  goddess), 


6o 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


besides  a  vast  number  of  divinities,  ranging  over  the  whole 
Indian  Olympus,  collected  under  the  gallery  at  the  furthest 
extremity   of  the  court,   most    of  which  are   frightful,  and    would 


i''"   sV 


'1^'Vi 


-^5/ 


r^^     ^  /!    '■\li  /        ^\^'^-l^^'?sY^^'<'<, 


■'M'i}-^  '■■»».. 


/' 


TKOYAO.MIQUI,     HOD   OF   DEATH   AND   WAR. 


give  a  poor  idea  of  Aztec  talent,  did  we  not  know  that  they 
are  all  specimens  of  hieratic  art,  and  as  such  were  not  permitted 
to  vary  in  shape  or  design.  And  now  we  come  to  Tizocs  stone, 
or    Temalacatl,  the   sun's   stone,  one;    of   the    most    interesting    in 


The  Indians. 


6i 


the  collection,  and  connected  with  a  bloody  episode  which  is 
reported  by  most  historians.  It  would  have  been  broken  up 
for  paving  the  square,  like  many  other  monuments  of  this  kind 
found  on  the  same  spot  and  about  the  same  time,  had  not  Canon 
Gamboa  arrested  the  work  of  destruction,  and  caused  the  stone 
to  be   placed  in   the   north-west    side    of   the    churchyard,    where 


-"^mn  -»Hm.*ii.iJ^ 


THE   STONE   OF   THE   SUX,  OR   OF   TIZOC,  MEXICO    MUSEUM. 


it  was  left  undisturbed  until  1824,  when  it  was  transferred  to 
the  University  for  a  short  time,  and  finally  placed  in  the  middle 
of  the  court  of  the  New  Museum.  This  monument  is  a  block 
of  trachyte,  oblong  in  shape,  measuring  over  eight  feet  in  dia- 
meter, thirty-one  feet  in  circumference,  and  some  two  feet  six 
inches  in  depth.  The  surface  is  ornamented  with  two  figures, 
portrayed  in  fifteen  different  attitudes,  recalling  the  victories 
of    the     Emperor    Tizoc.       Two    women    are    seen    among    the 


62  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

vanquished,  from  which  it  would  appear  that  the  SaHc  Law  was 
not  in  force  among  the  Indians.  In  every  one  of  these  groups 
Tizoc  is  represented  holding  by  the  hair  the  vanquished, 
who,  in  a  supplicating  posture,  seems  to  ask  for  mercy.  Over 
each  figure  may  be  seen  a  hieroglyph,  expressive  of  the 
conquered  city  represented  by  her  chief.  The  surface  of  the 
stone  is  occupied  by  an  Image  of  the  sun,  having  in  the 
centre  a  hole  some  six  inches  deep,  which  is  connected  with 
a  tube  terminating  on  the  upper  circumference.  This  hole  is 
supposed  to  have  been  made  by  the  Spaniards  in  their  attempt 
to  split  the  stone,  which  was  so  fortunately  stopped  by  Canon 
Gamboa,  but  not  before  they  had  mutilated  every  face  of  the 
different  groups.  This  supposition  seems  borne  out  by  the 
fact  that  It  was  not  likely  the  original  makers  would  have  bored 
a  hole  right  through  the  bassl-rellevi,  and  thus  deface  their 
own  work. 

The  Ternalacatl,  or  "gladiatorial  stone,"  as  it  was  called  by 
the  Spaniards,  must  not  be  confused  with  the  Techcatl,  or  "stone 
of  sacrifice."  The  former  was  always  to  be  found  In  the  courts 
of  the  Temple,  placed  over  a  basement  varying  in  bulk  according 
to  the  size  of  the  stone,  from  which  the  captive,  particularly 
if  he  happened  to  be  a  man  of  distinction,  was  allowed  to  fight 
against  a  number  of  enemies  In  succession  ;  but,  besides  the  In- 
equality of  numbers,  he  was  furnished  only  with  a  wooden  sword 
ornamented  with  feathers  along  the  blade,  whereas  his  adversaries 
had  weapons  of  obsidian,  "as  sharp  as  steel."  If  he  succeeded 
in  defeating  them  all,  as  did  occasionally  happen,  he  was  allowed 
to  escape,  but  if  vanquished  he  was  dragged  to  the  stone,  the 
upper  surface  of  which  was  somewhat  convex  to  receive  the 
victim  ;  on  this  the  prisoner  was  stretched,  five  priests  securing 
his  head  and  his  limbs,  while  a  sixth,  clad  in  a  scarlet  mantle, 
dexterously  opened  the  breast  of  the  victim  with  a  sharp  knife, 


The   Indians. 


63 


and  inserting  his  liand  in  the  wound,  tore  out  the  heart,  and 
holding  it  up  first  towards  the  sun — a  god  common  to  all — cast  it 
at  the  face  or  the  feet  of  the  divinity  to  whom  the  temple  was 
dedicated,  whilst  the  multitudes  knelt  in  humble  adoration  at 
the  foot  of  the  stone  or  pyramid  ready  to  receive  the  body,  which 
was  hurled  down  by  the  priests,  and  which  the  people  divided 
among  themselves,  to  have  it  served  up  in  an  entertainment  in 
honour  of  the   particular  god  they   were   celebrating. 


THE   TEMALACATI.,    OR   GLADIATORIAL   STONE,    FROM    RAMIREZ   MS. 


The  sacrifice  ceremonial,  whether  from  the  summit  of  the 
Temple  or  from  the  gladiatorial  stone,  was  exactly  the  same, 
save  that  the  latter,  standing  but  a  few  feet  from  the  ground, 
allowed  the  whole  city  to  witness  the  ghastly  details  of  the  sight. 
These  stones  were  perfecdy  plain  or  beautifully  sculptured,  like 
the  one  under  notice,  according  to  the  teocalli  it  was  destined 
for,  or  the  degree  and  importance  of  the  donor.  The  temalacatl 
or  stone  of  Montezuma  1.,  which  up  to  the  present  time  has  not 
been  found,  is  supposed  to  lie  buried  under   the   "  Plaza    de    las 


64  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

Armas "  in  Mexico.  Besides  these,  there  was  a  smaller  circular 
stone,  the  Ctiauhxicalli,  "eagle's  cup,"  so  called  from  the  hearts 
of  the  victims  being  thrown  into  the  hole  situated  in  the  centre, 
and  which  now,  by  a  curious  contrast,  is  used  as  a  drinking 
trough  by  pigeons  and  small  birds.* 

The  last  Montezuma  would  have  also  erected  a  Temalacatl, 
for  which  a  huge  block  of  stone  was  transported  from  Aculco, 
beyond  Lake  Chalco,  but  in  crossing  a  bridge  which  traversed 
one  of  the  canals,  the  supports  gave  way,  and  the  gigantic  mass 
was  precipitated  into  the  water,  where  it  still  lies. 

A  military  point  of  honour,  as  understood  among  the  western 
nations  of  Europe,  was  so  deeply  rooted  in  the  Indian  warriors 
that  they  would  suffer  death  rather  than  be  guilty  of  any  act 
that  could  lower  them  in  the  estimation  of  their  fellow-citizens. 
With  the  Mexicans  and  Tlaxcaltecs,  a  soldier,  if  unfortunate 
enough  to  be  made  a  prisoner,  was  reserved  for  sacrifice,  especially 
if  he  happened  to  be  of  superior  rank  ;  to  be  ransomed  was 
deemed  unworthy  and  a  disgrace.  A  few  years  before  the 
arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  the  Uexotzincas,  the  Tlaxcaltecs  and 
the  Mexicans  were  at  war  with  each  other.  In  one  of  the  frequent 
skirmishes  between  the  rival  nations,  it  happened  that  a  Tlaxcaltec 
chief,  by  name  Tlahuicole,  was  captured.  His  fame  as  a  warrior 
had  spread  far  and  wide  ;  his  prowess  was  so  well  known  that 
few  cared  to  measure  their  strength  with  his,  or  feel  the  weight 
of  his  huge  tomahawk,  which  a  man  of  common  stature  could 
hardly  lift.  But  one  day,  in  the  heat  of  pursuit,  he  got  far  ahead 
of  all  his  companions,  when  he  was  waylaid  in  a  morass, 
immediately  surrounded,  placed  in  a  cage,  and  conveyed  to 
Mexico  amidst  the    rejoicings  of  the   enemy.      He    was  brought 


*  Sahagun.  Ramirez.  Duran,  "  Historia  dc  las  Indias  dc  Nueva  Espana," 
vol.  I.  chap.  XX.  Leon  y  Gama,  "Las  dos  Picdras."  Conquistador  Anonimo, 
"  Colecciun  dc  Documcnlos."      Icazbalccta,  vol.  i.  p.  375. 


The  Indians.  65 


to  the  Emperor  Moteuh9oma,  who,  on  hearing  his  name,  not 
only  spared  his  Hfe  but  offered  him  his  liberty,  and  treated  him 
with  marked  distinction.  But  Tlahuicole  refused  everything,  and 
besought  the  Emperor  to  devote  him  to  the  gods  according 
to  custom.  Seeing  that  he  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  accept 
any  offer,  however  brilliant,  Moteuh^oma  gave  orders  that  he 
should  be  tied  on  the  Qrladiatorial  stone  and  that  some  of  his 
best  soldiers  should  fight  him,  whilst  he  himself,  with  a  numerous 
retinue,  witnessed  the  scene.  Tlahuicole  killed  successively  eight 
men,  and  wounded  upwards  of  twenty  ;  but  he  succumbed  at 
last,  and  was  carried  off  to  be  offered  to  the  war-god  Huitzilo- 
pochtli.* 

But  to  return  :  this  temalacatl  clearly  belongs  to  Tizoc,  for 
his  portrait  is  seen  on  the  edge  of  the  stone,  whilst  a  speckled 
leg  (he  is  supposed  to  have  had  varices)  is  sculptured  above  his 
image.  The  monument,  however,  like  the  great  temple,  may 
have  been  completed  by  his  successor  Ahuitzotl  between  1484- 
1486. 

Human  sacrifices  were  made  even  more  revolting  by  canni- 
balism, which  from  the  Aztecs  spread  among  all  the  surrounding 
nations,  and  were  adopted  by  the  populations  with  which  they 
were  at  war  by  way  of  reprisals.  The  more  humane  chiefs,  such 
as  Netzahualcoyotl,  king  of  Texcuco,  tried  to  oppose  this 
barbarous  custom  ;  but  they  were  obliged  to  yield  before  the 
ignorance  of  the  people  and  the  fanaticism  of  the  priests,  who 
seeing  that  the  supply  of  prisoners  of  war  began  to  fail,  clamoured 
for  more,  and  urged  on  the  monarchs  the  necessity  of  sacrificing 
their  own  subjects,  on  the  ground  that  they  would  be  more  easily 
obtained  ;  that  they  would  be  fresher,  more  acceptable,  and  in  the 
same  condition   as  children   and   slaves.      In   the  year    1454,    the 


*  Torquemada,   "  Monarquia   Indiana,"   vol.   i.   lib.  i.   p.    82.      Diego    Duran, 
chap.  Ixvi. 


66  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

country  was  visited  by  a  horrible  famine,  and  the  priests  declared 
that  the  celestial  wrath  could  only  be  appeased  by  regular  and 
numerous  sacrifices  ;  to  obtain  which  a  treaty  was  entered  into  by 
the  three  allied  kings  of  Mexico,  Texcuco,  and  Tlacopan  with  the 
three  republics  of  Tlascala,  Huezotzinco,  and  Cholula,  by  which 
they  agreed  that  their  troops  should  engage  to  fight  on  the  first 
days  of  each  month,  on  the  territory  between  Cuantepec  and 
Ocelotepec,  and  thus  supply  themselves  with  human  victims.  The 
men  eno-ao-ed  in  these  encounters  received  the  terrible  name  of 

o    o 

"  enemies  of  the  house,"  whilst  these  monthly  affrays  are  known  in 
history  as  the  "  Holy  War."  It  was  not  on  the  circular  Tema- 
lacatl  that  victims  were  sacrificed,  but  on  the  dreadful  Teckcatl, 
*'  stone  of  sacrifice,"  which  was  6  ft.  6  in.  long  by  3  ft.  3  in.  wide, 
and  about  3  ft.  high,  so  as  to  enable  the  officiating  priests  to  have 
a  thorouo-h  command  over  their  victim.  At  the  dedication  of  the 
great  temple  of  Huitzilopochtli  in  i486,  the  prisoners  who  for 
some  years  had  been  reserved  for  this  solemn  occasion,  were 
drawn  up  and  ranged  in  files,  forming  a  procession  along  the 
narrow  causeways  two  miles  long,  when  the  number  sacrificed 
is  almost  beyond  belief,  and  is  variously  estimated  at  80,000  and 
20,000.  The  massacre  lasted  four  days,  and  was  begun  by  the  kings 
of  Mexico,  Texcuco,  Tacuba,  and  the  Minister  Tlacael,  until  they 
were  relieved  by  the  priests.  However,  the  number  of  victims 
immolated  has  no  doubt  been  much  exaggerated. 

It  is  difficult  to  reconcile  these  revolting  usages  with  a  people 
that  had  made  great  advance  in  civilisation.  American  writers 
have  tried  to  palliate  the  abominable  practices  of  their  ancestors, 
on  the  ground  tliat  tliey  shared  them  in  common  with  every  other 
nation  in  the  early  stage  of  their  history.  In  their  eyes  the 
Aztecs,  if  not  commendable,  were  at  least  pardonable,  and  Orozco 


*  Diego  Duran,  vol.  i.  chap.  xxix.     Ixtlilxochitl,  "  Historia  Chichcmeca,"  chap, 
xli.,  etc. 


The   Indians.  67 


y  Berra  says  that  "human  sacrifices  originate  froni  an  error  of  the 
mind  rather  than  from  evil  disposition  ;    that  it  is  the  result  of  an 
exaggerated  religious  feeling,   and  not    a  real   desire  to  do   evil. 
That  this  institution,  if  philosophically  considered,  is  not  deserving 
of  the   intempestive  lamentations   of  a  few  sentimental  moralists."' 
The  horror  I  feel,"  he  adds,   "  for  the  revolting  abuse  of  human 
sacrifice,  yields  to  what  I  feel  for  utter  impiety  ;    I  will  go  further, 
and  say  that  I   prefer  human  sacrifice  to  atheism,  as   I   prefer  the 
iofnorant    neofro   who   bows    before   his   fetish,   to   a  free-thinker." 
Obviously  Orozco  is  animated  with  the  same  spirit  as  his  ancestors. 
An  Aztec  of  the  olden  time  would  have  adduced  better  reasons, 
for  he  held  that  to  be  sacrificed  on  the  altar  of  his  god  was  even 
more  glorious  than  to  die  in  battle,  since  it  ensured  him  a  speedy 
passage  into  paradise  ;   and  as  the  enemy  was  never  slain  if  there 
were    a   chance  of   taking  him   alive,   the   number  of  those   who 
disappeared  was  a  fixed  quantity.     The  same  argument  is  urged 
in  favour  of  cannibalism,  but  it  is  at  least  doubtful  if  it  ever  existed 
as  an   institution   amono-  other  civilised  nations.      Men,   however 
cruel,  do  not  feed  on  one  another,  unless  obliged  by  an  absolute 
necessity;  and  cannibalism,  which  no  doubt  existed  with  all  primitive 
populations,  only  continued  among   those    who  were  deprived    of 
sufficient  space  where    they  could  hunt  and  feed  their  flocks,   and 
who  were  reduced  to  a  scanty  supply  of  roots  and  herbs  for  their 
subsistence.     This  was  observed  among  the  Caraibs  at  the  time  of 
the  Conquest ;  in  the  islands  of  the  Pacific,  in  Australia,  where  the 
soil  is  so  poor,  that  although  cannibalism  prevails,  the  increase  of 
population   has  to  be  kept  down,   and  the  recent  introduction  of 
pigs  in  the  islands  has  diminished  but  not  eradicated  this  ancient 
practice,    which    has    never    flourished  with    races   provided   with 
bears,  reindeer,  horses,  and  herds.     This  usage,  which  at  first  was 

*  Orozco   y  Berra,  "  Historia  Antigua,"  vol.  11.  chap.  ix.  p.  96.     He  quotes 
Joseph  de  Maistre. 

F    2 


68 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


a  necessity,  became  a  sacred  tradition  with  the  Aztecs,  with  whom 
religion  was  all-powerful  ;  it  directed  the  State,  presided  over  the 
minutest  details  of  domestic  life,  and  as  the  influence  of  the  priests 
was  unbounded,  peasants  and  princes  had  to  bow  their  necks  to 
their  tyranny.  They  cannot  be  called  cannibals,  however,  in  the 
coarsest  sense  of  the  word,  for  they  did  not  feed  on  human  flesh 
to  gratify  their  appetite,  but  as  a  duty,  and  in  obedience  to  their 
religion  ;  and  during  the  long  and  terrible  siege  of  Mexico  not 
a  single  case  of  cannibalism  is  recorded  against  them  by  ancient 

authorities.  Whence  did  they  derive  this 
religious  practice  ?  Not  from  the  nations 
of  the  ancient  continent  with  whom  they 
have  so  much  in  common,  for  at  that  time 
cannibalism  was  no  longer  practised  among 
the  nomadic  tribes  of  Eastern  Asia  ;  nor 
from  Japan  or  China,  where  the  people 
had  always  lived  on  the  produce  of  the 
soil  ;  it  is  probable  that  they  received  it 
from  the  Caraibs  of  the  Antilles  and  the 
Polynesian  races  of  the  Pacific,  who  made 
them  forget  the  mild  teachings  and  higher  civilisation  of  the 
Toltecs. 

We  give  the  drawings  of  two  yokes  :  No.  i  is  the  yoke  which 
up  to  the  present  time  has  been  universally  accepted  as  that  used 
for  securing  the  victim  during  the  sacrifice,  of  which  several 
specimens  are  to  be  seen  in  Mexican  museums  and  in  our  own 
Trocadero,  but  which,  owing  to  the  cylindrical  shape  of  the  arch, 
measuring  some  sixteen  inches  in  height  by  about  seven  in  width, 
we  maintain  could  never  have  been  used  for  the  purpose  assigned 
to  it ;  whereas  No.  2,  which  we  claim  to  have  unearthed,  answers 
in  our  opinion  exactly  to  the  requirements  of  a  yoke  for  such 
a  purpose.      It  is  almost  the  width  of  the  Techcatl,  and  is  concave 


WRONG   SACRIFICIAL   COLLAR. 


RIGHT  SACRIFICIAL   COLLAR. 


The  Indians.  69 


on  its  lower  surface,  which  makes  it  a  perfect  fit  for  a  convex 
stone  ;  it  has.  moreover,  a  round  hollow  in  the  centre,  sufficiently 
large  to  steady  a  man's  neck,  so  that  the  priest  had  only  to  apply 
this  yoke  to  prevent  any  movement,  when,  to  use  Father  Duran's 
expression,  he  let  fall  his  sharp  silex  knife  and  the  victim  opened 
"  like  a  pomegranate."  " 

Notwithstanding  the  assertion  of  most  historians  respecting  the 
work  of  the  Aboriofines,  it  is  difficult  to  account  how  with  the  tools 
they  were  acquainted  with  they  could  cut  not  only  the  hardest 
substances,  but  also  build  the  numerous  structures  which  are  still 
seen  in  Mexico  and  Central  America,  together  with  the  sculptures, 
bas-reliefs,  statues,  and  inscriptions  like  those  we  reproduce.  These 
monuments  were  innumerable,  of  all  dimensions,  and  according  to 
Leon  y  Gama,t  there  was  no  town  or  settlement  which  did  not 
possess  on  the  stones  of  its  walls,  on  the  rocks  of  its  mountains, 
the  year  of  its  foundation,  its  origin,  and  the  history  of  its  progress 
engraved  in  symbols  and  characters  which  could  only  be  read  by 
the  Indians  themselves.  It  is  all  the  more  inexplicable  that  they 
should  have  only  used  stone  implements,  that  copper  was  abundant, 
and  that  they  knew  how  to  temper  and  make  it  nearly  as  hard  as 
steel.  The  method  employed  by  stone  sculptors,  however,  has  in 
all  probability  been  lost. 

ClavigeroJ  says  that  stone  was  worked  with  tools  of  hard 
stone  ;  that  copper  hatchets  were  used  by  carpenters,  and  also 
to  cultivate  the  soil  and  to  fell  trees  ;  and  Mendieta  writes  that 
both  carpenters  and  joiners  used  copper  tools,  but  that  their  work 
was  not  so  beautiful  as  that  of  the  sculptors  on  stone  who  had 
silex   implements.  § 

*  Diego  Duran,  vol.  i.  chap.  xxix. 

+  Antonio  de  Leon  y  Gama,  "  Descripcion  Hist.  &  Cronologico  de  las  Dos 
Piedras,"  pp.  2  and  5. 

X  Clavigero,  "  Historia  Antigua,"  vol.  i.  p.  242  ;  id.  notes,  p.  6  ;  iW.  vol.  i.  chap.  vii. 
§  Geronimo  Mendieta,  "Historia  Ecclesiastica  Indiana,"  vol.  iv.  chap.  xii. 


/O  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World, 

Some  historians  have  proved  to  their  own  satisfaction  that 
copper  was  unknown  to  the  Indians  ;  but  had  they  taken  the 
trouble  to  read,  however"  sHghtly,  any  authority  on  the  subject, 
they  would  have  paused  before  they  advanced  a  theory  which 
is  entirely  at  variance  with  all  writers,  both  ancient  and  modern. 
It  is  an  ascertained  fact  that  very  rich  copper-mines  have  been 
worked  since  the  Conquest  ;^=  and  in  1873,  whilst  sinking  a  shaft 
in  a  copper-mine  at  Aguila,  in  the  State  of  Guerrero,  the  miner 
lost  suddenly  the  vein  ;  and  on  examining  the  cause  of  the 
accident  an  excavation  was  found  4  ft.  4  in.  long,  4  ft.  9  in.  deep, 
and  over  3  ft.  wide,  in  which  was  a  rich  copper  vein  from  2  to  4  in. 
m  thickness.  The  engineer,  Felipe  Lorainzar,  could  see  no  sign 
of  iron  or  powder  having  been  used,  but  the  walls  showed  marks 
of  fire  ;  and  both  the  copper  ore  and  the  rock  in  which  it  was 
embedded,  were  shattered  and  split  in  various  places.  In  the 
rubbish  were  found  142  stones  of  different  dimensions,  shaped  like 
hammers  and  wedges,  the  edges  of  which  were  blunt  or  broken  ; 
these  stones  were  of  a  different  substance  from  the  surrounding 
rock,  clearly  indicating  that  the  mine  had  originally  been  worked 
by  the  natives,  t 

Copper  was  likewise  found  in  Chili,  Columbia,  Chihuahua,  and 
in  New  Mexico.  Before  the  Conquest,  the  Indians  procured  lead 
and  tin  from  the  mines  of  Tasco,  but  copper  was  the  metal  used  in 
mechanic  arts.  Hatchets,  arms,  and  scissors  were  made  of  copper 
found  in  the  mountains  of  Zocatollan.  The  letters  of  Cortez  tell 
us  that  among  the  ta'xes  paid  by  the  conquered  people,  figured 
copper  hatchets  and  lingots  of  the  same  metal,  which  were  paid 
every  eighty  days.   Bernal  Diaz  J  says  that  in  his  second  expedition 


*  Between  the  years  183 2- 1842,  copi)er-niines  were  worked  successively  by  an 
Italian  of  the  name  of  Chialiva,  and  others. — Transl. 

t  "  Anales  del  Museo  de  Mejico,"  vol.  i. ;  art.  by  Don  Jesus  Sanchez. 
t  "  Bernal  Diaz  del  Castillo,"  lib.  i.  cap.  xvi 


TiiK  Indians.  71 

with  Grijalva,  the  inhabitants  of  Goatzacoalco  brought  them 
upwards  of  six  hundred  copper  hatchets  in  three  days,  having 
wood  handles  exquisitely  painted,  and  so  polished  that  "we  thought 
at  first  they  were  gold."  Copper  was  also  found  in  Venezuela, 
where,  at  the  present  day,  jewels  of  copper,  or  mixed  with  gold, 
crocodiles,  lizards,  and  frogs  are  found.  We  procured  some  and 
placed  them  in  the  Trocadero,  having  the  same  dimensions  as 
those  in  Central  America.  Those  we  found  on  our  first  visit  to 
Mitla,  are  thin,  shaped  like  a  tau^  and  hardly  4  in.  long.  Dupaix 
found  similar  hatchets  at  Mitla,  and  he  thinks  they  were  used  as 
currency,  a  supposition  all  the  more  probable,  that  an  Indian  from 
Zochoxocotlan,  near  Oaxaca,  found  an  earthen  pot  containing 
twenty-three  dozen  of  these  taus,  but  differing  slightly  from  each 
other  both  in  size  and  thickness.  We  read  in  Torquemada,* 
that  copper  tablets,  varying  in  thickness  and  shaped  like  a  tau, 
were  used  as  currency  in  various  regions,  and  that  they  contained 
a  large  proportion  of  gold. 

Gumesindo  Mendoza  mentions  copper  scissors  in  the  Mexican 
Museum  which  were  found  to  contain  97*87  lead,  100  copper,  213 
platinum,  100  tin,  and  infinitesimal  quantities  of  gold  and  zinc.  On 
removing  the  oxide  which  covered  them  the  bronze  looked  like 
red  gold,  its  density  being  equal  to  8  "815  ;  it  is  harder  than  copper 
and  breaks  under  strong  pressure,  the  broken  part  showing  a  fine 
granulation,  like  steel  ;  but  its  hardness  is  less  than  carburetted 
iron  and  insufficient  for  the  use  it  was  intended  for. 

Humboldt  says  that  Peruvian  scissors  contained  94  lead,  100 
copper,  6  platinum,  100  tin,  and  that  their  specific  weight  was  8-815  ; 
other  scissors  analysed  by  Ramirez  yielded  90  lead,  100  copper,  10 
platinum,  and  100  tin.    It  seems  almost  impossible  that  the  Indians 


*  Torquemada,  "  Monarquia  Indiana,"  vol.  n.  p.  560.  Ixtlilxochitl,  in  his 
fourth  Relacion,  says  that  the  Toltecs  used  oblong  pieces  of  copper  shaped  like 
hatchets,  about  the  thickness  of  a  real. 


72  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


should  not  have  used  these  admirable  bronze  scissors  to  build 
palaces,  sculpture  their  idols  and  the  images  of  their  kings,  which 
are  still  visible  on  the  porphyry  rocks  of  Chapultepec  ;  and  if  it  is 
denied  that  they  were  able  to  carve  such  hard  substances,  they 
must  be  credited  with  having  easily  worked  the  calcareous  stones 
of  Chiapas  and  Yucatan. 

The  American  tribes  had  reached  the  transition  epoch  between 
the  polished  stone  and  the  bronze  period,  which  was  marked  by 
considerable  progress  in  architecture  and  some  branches  of  science. 
With  them  this  period  lasted  longer  than  in  the  old  world,  owing 
to  their  never  having  come  in  contact  with  nations  of  a  higher 
civilisation  and  possessed  of  better  tools.  Their  only  scientific 
data  In  the  past  were  traditions  which,  if  we  believe  their  apologists, 
were  carefully  preserved  and  developed  ;  but  they  have  nearly  all 
been  lost,  and  great  uncertainty  must  for  ever  rest  upon  the  degree 
of  their  scientific  progress  ;  for  It  is  equally  Impossible  to  accept 
either  the  wild  theories  of  the  good  Abbe  Brasseur,  who  sees  in  the 
Troano  and  Chilmalpoca  codices,  a  whole  system  of  geology  dating 
ten  thousand  years  back,  as  It  is  impossible  to  accept  the  childish 
dreams  of  Leplongeon,  who  credits  the  Mayas  with  every  discovery 
clown  to  the  electric  telegraph  ;  nor  yet  those  who  maintain  that 
without  astronomical  instruments  (since  they  were  unacquainted 
with  glass)  the  Aztecs  had  discovered  the  composition  of  the  sun 
and  the  transit  of  Venus,  It  seems  as  futile  to  make  the  Nahuas 
the  inventors  of  everything  as  to  rank  them  with  mere  savages. 
The  religion  of  a  people  Is  a  sure  Index  of  the  degree  of  Its 
culture  ;  we  know  that  the  moral  code  and  religion  of  the  Toltecs 
showed  wonderful  growth  towards  all  the  essentials  of  a  high 
civilisation,  for  religion  in  its  early  stage  Is  but  a  gross  fetishism, 
of  which  the  head  of  the  family  Is  the  priest,  who  performs  before 
his    household    god    the    simple    ceremonies    he    learnt    from    his 


The  Indians.  73 

forefathers.  But  as  the  tribe  rises  in  importance  his  duties  become 
more  complicated,  and  he  is  wilHng  to  lay  down  his  priestly  office 
in  favour  of  a  poet  or  prophet,  who,  whilst  the  warriors  are  engaged 
in  warfare  and  other  avocations,  shall  pray  for  the  welfare  of  the 
tribe  and  expound  the  wishes  of  the  deity,  receiving  for  his  services 
part  of  the  booty  or  the  produce  of  the  chase,  and  later,  have  his 
share  of  the  land  under  cultivation.  He  soon  adopts  a  dress  so  as 
to  be  distinguished  from  the  warriors  and  the  people  ;  and  as  the 
number  of  priests  increases,  offerings  are  multiplied ;  a  more  imposing 
ceremonial  replaces  the  simple  worship  of  former  days,  temples 
and  chapels  are  built,  the  image  of  the  god  is  placed  in  the 
sanctuary,  and  only  approached  by  the  high  priest,  who  becomes 
the  sole  interpreter  between  god  and  man.  The  former  is  now 
given  numerous  personalities,  according  to  his  various  attributes, 
and  the  simple  fetish  of  an  early  epoch  develops  in  process  of 
time  into  a  mighty  host,  frequently  numbering  upwards  of  three 
thousand  deities  like  the  Aztec  Olympus,  for  whose  service  a 
numerous  priesthood  and  great  wealth  are  required,  implying  a 
high  degree  of  civilisation. 

That  there  should  be  great  uncertainty  upon  questions  resting 
chiefly  on  vague  traditions  is  natural  enough,  but  that  the  same 
should  be  the  case  with  matters  that  admitted  of  easy  proof  seems 
unaccountable  ;  as,  for  instance,  the  name  of  Montezuma,  in  whose 
intimacy  the  Spaniards  lived  several  months  ;  yet  of  the  twenty- 
three  chroniclers  who  wrote  about  him,  two  call  him  Motecuhzoma, 
three  Montezuma,  and  the  remaining  eighteen  spell  his  name  in  as 
many  different  ways. 

And  here  we  will  take  leave  of  the  Aztecs,  whose  history  has 
been  so  admirably  written  by  Prescott.  My  object  in  writing 
about  them  was  to  give  some  idea,  however  slight,  of  this  people, 
in  order  to  prepare  the  reader  to  follow   me  in  my  investigations 


74 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


respecting  the  far  more  ancient  civilisation  of  the  Toltecs — a 
civiHsation  which  from  them  passed  to  the  Aztecs,  the  Nahua 
tribes,  and  the  people  of  Central  America  ;  the  remains  of  which 
are  still  to  be  seen,  whilst  its  stones  will  compose,  together  with 
chroniclers  and  historians,  the  foundation  of  our  work. 


HUMAN   SACRIFICES. 


ANCIENT   INDIAN    POTTERY. 


CHAPTER    IV. 


TULA. 


Journey  to  Tula — The  Toltecs — Ancient  Historians — Origins — ^Peregrinations- 
Foundation  of  Tula — Toltec  Religion — Chief  Divinities — Art — Industry- 
Measurement  of  Time — The  Word  Calli — Architecture. 


The  journey  to  Tula,  capital  of  the  Toltecs,  our  next  destination. 
is  performed  partly  by  railway  and  partly  by  diligence  over  a 
distance  of  some  sixteen  leagues  north  of  Mexico.  The  valley 
in  this  month  (August)  is  at  its  best ;  immense  plantations  of 
Indian  corn  give  it  the  aspect  of  a  green  sea,  whilst  a  grand 
range  of  mountains  and  lofty  summits  bound  it  at  the  horizon. 
We  go  through  the  Tejan  district,  stopping  a  few  minutes  at 
Tacuba,  where  the  old  cypress  of  the  "Melancholy  night"  is 
again  pointed  out  to  us.  Our  next  station  is  Atzacapotzalco,  once 
an  independent  state ;  then  Tlanepantla.  The  country,  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach,  presents  nothing  but  the  same  plantations, 
the  same  hamlets,   the  same  poor   squalid   huts,  whilst  here  and 


76  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


there  a  few  Indians  in  tatters,  and  swarms  of  naked  children, 
gaze  at  us  stupidly  as  we  speed  along.  Now  we  come  to  a 
fortress  -  like  church,  formerly  used  as  a  stronghold  by  the 
Pronunciados  ;  we  notice  for  the  first  time  some  stunted  poplars 
some  rare  willow-trees,  and  by-and-by  hedges  of  prickly  pear 
and  now  that  we  are  in  the  diligence,  the  country  somewhat 
changes ;  instead  of  long  stretches  of  green  maize,  we  have 
immense  plantations  of  aloe,  which  to  my  mind,  whether  viewed 
from  afar  or  near,  are  never  a  picturesque  feature  in  the  landscape. 
It  is  a  wonder  how  we  advance  at  all,  for  the  wheels  of  our 
carriage  almost  disappear  in  the  ruts  of  the  worst  road  I  ever 
travelled  upon  ;  I  am  confident  that  nothing  has  been  done  to 
it  since  the  day  it  was  opened.  We  cross  a  muddy  river,  when, 
with  cracking  of  whip  and  galloping  horses,  we  enter  a  village 
shaded  by  great  ash-trees,  and  draw  up  before  a  respectable- 
looking  inn,  where  we  take  up  our  quarters,  for  we  are  in  Tula, 
once  the  brilliant  capital  of  the  Toltecs,  but  now  reduced  to  a 
small  straggling  town  numbering  some   1,500  souls. 

The  Toltecs,  as  was  stated  before,  were  one  of  the  Nahuan 
tribes,  which  from  the  seventh  to  the  fourteenth  century  spread 
over  Mexico  and  Central  America.  Their  existence  has  been 
denied  by  various  modern  historians,  although  all  American 
writers  agree  that  the  numerous  bands  which  followed  them  in 
the  country  received  their  civilisation  from  them.  It  must  be 
admitted,  however,  that  our  knowledge  rests  chiefly  on  tradi- 
tionary legends  full  of  anachronisms,  transmitted  to  us  by  the 
nations  that  came  after  them  ;  but  it  will  be  our  care  to  fill  up 
the  enormous  discrepancies  to  be  met  with  at  almost  every  page, 
by  the  monuments  it  has  been  our  good  fortune  to  bring  to 
light.  Two  writers,  Ixtlilxochitl  and  Mariano  Veytia,  have 
written  about  this  people:  the  hrst  in  his  "  Historia  Chichemeca" 
and    "  Relaciones,"    the    second     in    his    "  Historia    Antigua    de 


Tula. 


n 


F.XTRACTING    PULQUE. 


Mejico  ;  "  the  latter  being  more  explicit,  it  is  from  him  that  we 
will  chiefly  borrow,  w^ithout  neglecting,  however,  other  chroniclers. 
Both   made    use   of  the    same    documents,   drew   from    the    same 


/S  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

sources,  the  traditionary  legends  of  their  country ;  and  Veytia, 
besides  his  own,  had  access  to  Botturini's  valuable  collection  of 
Mexican  manuscripts,  so  that  he  was  well  acquainted  with 
American  antiquities.  Ixtlilxochitl,  on  the  other  hand,  as  might 
be  expected,  in  writing  the  history  of  his  ancestors,  whose 
language  he  understood  and  whose  hieroglyphs  he  could  decipher, 
is  inspired  by  patriotic  zeal ;  and  it  will  be  found  that  these 
historians  have  just  claims  to  our  admiration  for  the  compass  of 
their  inquiries,  and  the  sagacity  with  which  they  conducted  them. 

A  third  writer,  Ramirez,  by  far  the  most  illustrious  of  those 
who  have  treated  the  same  subject,  speaking  of  the  two  historians 
who  preceded  him,  says  :  "  I  am  not  claiming  infallibility  for  our 
historians,  yet  it  must  surely  be  conceded  that,  if  no  credence 
is  given  to  our  own,  the  same  measure  must  be  meted  out 
to  all  the  traditions  of  other  countries,  for  neither  Diodorus, 
Josephus,  Livy,  Tacitus,  nor  other  historians,  are  able  to  bring 
the  array  of  documents  with  which  our  history  abounds  in  support 
of  their  assertions.  I  have  purposely  omitted  Herodotus,  the 
most  curious  and  instructive  among  ancient  historians,  because 
modern  discoveries  and  modern  criticism  have  cleared  him  from 
the  unjust  attacks  of  Plutarch.  A  history  is  true  and  highly 
instructive,  although  it  may  contain  absurd  propositions,  if  it 
faithfully  transmits  the  traditions,  the  belief,  and  the  customs 
of  a  people ;  as  it  may  be  absolutely  false,  although  relating 
facts  which  seem  natural  and  probable,  but  are  only  the  invention 
of  the  author.  Mexican  history  and  biography,  like  those  of 
other  nations,  are  founded  on  tradition  and  historical  documents  ; 
than  wliicli  none  are  better  authenticatc;d  or  more  trustworthy." 

We  think  Ramirez  proves  his  case,  and,  in  writing  these 
chapters,   we  will   not  be  more  critical   than   he  is.* 


*  Prescott,   "History  of  the  Conquest  of  Mexico.      Critical  Notes  by  Jose 
Ramirez,"  vol.  n.     Cumplido. 


Tula.  79 

Veytia,*  like  all  historians  of  that  time,  places  the  primitive 
home  of  the  Toltecs  in  Asia,  to  make  his  account  agree  with 
Genesis,  where  it  is  said  that  after  the  destruction  of  the 
Babylonian  Tower,  "  The  Lord  scattered  the  sons  of  men  upon 
the  face  of  all  the  earth."  According  to  him,  they  crossed 
Tartary  and  entered  America  through  the  Behring  Straits,  by 
means  of  large  flat  canoes,  and  square  rafts  made  of  wood 
and  reeds  ;  the  former  are  described,  and  called  acalli,  "  water 
houses,"  in  their  manuscripts.  Directing  their  course  southward, 
they  built  their  first  capital,  Tlapallan,  "coloured,"  subsequently 
Htiehue-Tlapallan,  to  distinguish  it  from  a  later  Tlapallan. 
Huehue-Tlapallan  was  the  cradle  whence  originated  the  various 
tribes  which  peopled  America.  Each  tribe  was  called  after  the 
father  or  chief  of  the  family,  who  was  also  its  ruler  ;  hence  came 
the  Olniccs,  from  Olmecatl  ;  the  Xicalancas,  from  Xicalantl,  etc.  ; 
it  is  uncertain  whether  the  Chichemecs  derived  their  appellation 
from  Cichen,   the  man,  or  Chichen,  the  town  in  Yucatan. t 

The  Toltecs,  by  the  common  consent  of  historians,  were  the 
most  cultured  of  all  the  Nahua  tribes,  and  better  acquainted 
with  the  mode  of  perpetuating  the  traditions  of  their  origin  and 
antiquities.  To  them  is  due  the  invention  of  hieroglyphs  and 
characters,  which,  arranged  after  a  certain  method,  reproduced 
their  history  on  skins  of  animals,  on  aloe  and  palm-leaves,  or 
by  knots  of  different  colours,  which  they  called  nepohualtzitzin, 
"  historical  events,"  and  also  by  simple  allegorical  songs.  This 
manner  of  writing  history  by  maps,  songs,  and  knots,  was  handed 
down  from  father  to  son,  and  thus  has  come  to  us.t 

TIacatzin  was  the  next  city  they  built ;  and  here,  after  thirteen 
years  of  warfare,  they  separated  from  the  main  body  of  the  nation 


*  Veytia,  "Hist.  Antigua,"  vol.  i.  chap.  i. 

+  Veytia.     Ixtlilxochitl  says  the  same  thing. 

1  These  knots  were  Chinese ;  in  Peru  they  were  called  quipos. 


8o  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

and  migrated  some  seventy  miles  to  the  south,  where  in  604  they 
founded  Tlapallanco,  "small  Tlapallan,"  in  remembrance  of  their 
first  capital.  But  the  arrival  of  fresh  immigrants  caused  them 
to  remove  further  south,  and,  under  the  command  of  their  wise 
man,  Hueman,'^  "the  Strong  Hand,"  who  is  endowed  ^\^ power, 
wisdom,  and  intelligence,  the  Toltecs  set  out  in  607,  and  marked 
their  progress  by  building  Jalisco,  where  they  remained  eight 
years  ;  then  Atenco,  where  they  were  five  years  ;  and  twenty  years 
at  Iztachuexuca.  In  after  times  other  Nahuan  tribes  followed 
them  by  different  routes,  as  the  ruins  in  New  Mexico  and  the 
Mexican  Valley  everywhere  attest. 

Las  Casas  Grandes,  the  settlements  in  the  Sierra  Madre,  the 
ruins  of  Zape,  of  Quemada,  recalling  the  monuments  at  Mitla, 
others  in  Oueretaro,  together  with  certain  features  in  the  building 
of  temples  and  altars,  which  remind  one  of  the  Mexican  manu- 
scripts from  which  the  Toltec,  Aztec,  and  Yucatec  temple  was 
built,  make  it  clear  that  the  civilisinsf  races  came  from  the  north- 
west ;  and  Guillemin  Tarayre,t  like  ourselves,  sees  in  the  calli 
the  embryo  of  the  tcocalli,  which  developed  into  the  vast  propor- 
tions of  the  pyramidal  mounds  found  at  Teotihuacan,  Cholula, 
in  Huasteca,  Misteca,  Tabasco,  and  Yucatan. 

The  next  city  built  by  the  Toltecs  was  Tollatzinco,  where 
they  remained  sixteen  years ;  and  finally  settled  at  Tollan  or 
Tula,  which  became  their  capital.  The  date  of  its  foundation 
is  variously  given  ;  Ixtlilxochitl  sets  it  down  at  556,  Clavigero 
667,  and  Veytia  assigns  713  a.d.  as  the  probable  date.  In  our 
estimation,  this  divergence  of  opinion  confirms  rather  than 
invalidates  the  existence  of  this  people. 

When  the  Aztecs  reached  Anahuac,  Atzacapotzalco,  Colhuacan, 


*  The  same  as  Kab-icl,  "  the  Working  Hand,"  which  we  shall  see  at  Izamal. 
t  Guillemin  Tarayre,   "  Archives  de  la  Commission  Scientifique  du  Mexique," 
PP-  378,  379- 


Tula. 


and  Texcuco  were  small  flourishing  states.  They  had  inherited 
from  the  Toltecs  many  useful  arts,  their  code  of  morals,  philo- 
sophy and  religion,  which  in  their  turn  they  taught  the  Aztecs, 
so  that  the  institutions  and  customs  of  these  different  tribes 
were  common  to  all  ;  and  in  default  of  documents  which  have 
been  lost,  we  ascribe  nearly  all  the  historians  of  the  Conquest 
relate  of  the  Aztecs,  whom  they  found  the  dominant  race,  as 
applicable  to  the  Toltecs,  the  fountain  of  all  progress  both  on 
the  plateaux  and  in  Central  America,  where  we  shall  follow 
them.  As  for  the  Aztecs,  who  settled  for  the  first  time  on  the 
Mexican  lake  at  the  beginning  of  the  fourteenth  century,  they 
were  at  that  period  nothing  but  a  rude,  barbarous  tribe,  and  to  the 
last  day  of  their  political  existence  they  remained  a  military  caste. 

Among  the  ruins  to  be  found  at  Tula  are  those  of  an  unfinished 
temple  called  Quetzali,  consisting  of  pillars  in  the  shape  of  serpents, 
the  heads  of  which  form  the  basement  and  the  tails  the  capital. 

Some  writers,  amongst  whom  is  Botturini,  think  the  Toltecs 
were  preceded  by  the  Olmecs  and  Xicalancas  on  the  territories 
of  Tlaxcala,  Huexcotzinco,  and  Puebla,  when,  after  years  of 
inter-tribal  conflict,  they  settled  in  the  Yucatan  peninsula.  But 
we  have  found  in  several  Indian  writers,  that  at  the  coronation 
of  Chalchiuhtlanetzin,  "  bright  stone,"  King  of  the  Toltecs,  the 
Olmecs  and  Xicalancas  came  to  swear  allegiance  and  submit  to 
his  authority ;  and  there  is  nothing  to  make  one  suppose  that 
they  were  compelled  to  leave  the  country,  for  they  seem  to 
have  amalgamated  so  well  with  the  new-comers  that  their  very 
name  was  merged  in  theirs,  although  they  retain  the  memory 
of  their  origin  even  to  this  day.  "  There  can  he  no  doiibt,''  says 
Veytia,  ''that  some  of  these  people  (Toltecs)  established  the?7tselves 
in  Yticatan''^ — a  remarkable  passage,  which  we  find  confirmed  at 


*  Veytia,  "  Hist.  Antigua  de  Mejico,"  vol.  i.  chap.  xxv.  p.  233. 

G 


S2 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


every  step.  According  to  the  same  authority,  they  built  Tula 
in  six  years,  when,  to  avoid  the  personal  jealousy  of  the 
Caciques,  they  petitioned  for  the  second  son  of  King  Huehue- 
Tlapallan,  whom  they  proclaimed  their  ruler  under  the  name 
of  Chalchiuhtla7ietzin. 

All  the  Toltecs  did  was  excellent,  graceful,  and  delicate  ; 
exquisite  remains  of  their  buildings  covered  with  ornamentation, 
together  with  pottery,  toys,  jewels,  and  many  other  objects  are 
found  throughout  New  Spain,  for,  says  Sahagun,*  "they  had 
spread    everywhere."       Both    Veytia    and     Ixdilxochidt    ascribe 


TOLTEC   POTTERY. 


a  common  origin  to  the  Nahua,  Toltec,  Acolhuan,  and  Mexican 
tribes.  "  The  Toltecs  were  good  architects  and  skilled  in 
mechanic  arts ;  they  built  great  cities  like  Tula,  the  ruins  of 
which  are  still  visible  ;  whilst  at  Totonac  they  erected  palaces 
of  cut  stone,  ornamented  with  designs  and  human  figures,  recalling 
their  chequered  history."  "At  Cucrnavaca"  (probably  Xochicalco), 
he  adds,  "  were  palaces  entirely  built  of  cut  stone,  without  mortar, 
beams,  girders,  or  wood  of  any  kind."  Torquemada  speaks  of  the 
Toltecs  in  the  same  terms,  observing  that  "they  were  supposed  to 


*  Sahagun,  "  Hist.  General  de  las  Cosas  de  la  Nucva  Kspana,"  lib.  x.  cap.  xxix, 
t  Ixtlilxoc'iill,  "Hist.  Chichemeca,'' cap.  ii.  third  and  fourth  Rclaciones. 


Tula. 


83 


have  come  from  the  west,  and  to  have  brought  with  them  maize, 
cotton,  seeds,  and  the  vegetables  to  be  found  in  this  country  ; 
that  they  were  cunning  artists  in  working  gold,  precious  stones, 
and  other  curiosities."'"'  On  the  other  hand,  Clavio^ero  thinks 
"they  were  the  first  nation  mentioned  in  American  traditions, 
and  justly  celebrated  among  the  Nahuas,  for  their  culture  and 
mechanic  skill  ;  and  that  the  name  Toltec  came  to  be  synonymous 
for  architect  and  artificer."! 
Quotations  might  be  multiplied 
ad  infinitum,  but  the  foregoing- 
will  suffice  to  prove  the  exist- 
ence of  this  people  and  their 
peculiar  genius. 

Their  law  of  succession  was 
somewhat  curious  :  each  king 
was  to  rule  one  of  their  cen- 
turies of  fifty-two  years  ;  if  he 
lived  beyond  it  he  was  required 
to  give  up  the  crown  to  his 
son,  and,  in  case  of  death,  a 
joint  regency  took  the  reins 
of  government  for  the  remain- 
ing years.  Their  sacred  book, 
teomoxtli,  contained  both  their  annals  and  their  moral  code.  It 
is  conjectured,  with  what  evidence  is  uncertain,  that  they  wor- 
shipped an  "unknown  god,"  perhaps  the  origin  of  the  "unknown 
god "  to  whom  the  King  of  Texcuco  raised  an  altar.  Their 
principal  deities,  however,  were  TonacatecuhtU,  the  "  Sun "  and 
the  "  Moon,"  to  whom  temples  were  first  erected  ;  to  these  they 
added    Tialjc,  god    of    rain,    and    Quetzalcoatl,    god    of   air    and 


TLALOC,  FKOM   A   PIECE   OF   POTTERY. 


*  Torquemada,  "  Monarquia  Indiana,"  vol.  i.  chap.  xiv. 
t  Clavigero,  "  Hist.  Antigua  de  Mejico,"  vol.  i.  lib.  ii.  pp.  51,  52. 

G  2 


84  Tpie  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


wisdom*  Tlaloc,  according  to  Torquemada,  was  the  oldest 
deity  known,  for  when  the  Acolhuans,  who  followed  the  Chiche- 
mecs,  arrived  in  the  country,  he  was  found  on  the  highest  summit 
of  the  Texcucan  mountain. t  His  paradise,  called  Tlaloca^t,  was 
a  place  of  delight,  an  Eden  full  of  flowers  and  verdure  ; 
whilst  the  surrounding  hills  were  called  "  Tlaloc  mounts."!  He 
was  emphatically  the  god  of  many  places,  of  many  names,  and 
numerous  personifications  ;  as  Popocatepetl  he  presided  over  the 
formation  of  clouds  and  rain,  he  was  the  "  world-fertiliser,"  the 
"  source  of  favourable  weather,"  sometimes  represented  dark  in 
colour,  his  face  running  with  water  to  signify  a  rich  yielding  soil  ; 
he  carried  a  thunderbolt  in  his  right  hand,  a  sign  of  thunder 
and  lightning  ;  whilst  his  left  held  a  tuft  of  variegated  feathers, 
emblem  of  the  different  hues  of  our  globe  ;  his  tunic  was  blue 
hemmed  with  gold,  like  the  heavens  after  rain.  His  wife, 
Chalchiuhtlicue,  goddess  of  waters,  was  represented  wearing  a 
blue  petticoat,  the  colour  of  the  mountain  Iztaccihuatl  when  seen 
at  a  distance,  which  was  sacred  to  her. 

Most  historians  mention  Ouetzalcoatl,  at  first  a  generic  name, 
whom  posterity  endowed  with  every  virtue  and  deified. §  His 
great  temple  was  at  Tula,  but  he  was  also  worshipped  in  Yucatan 
under  the  name  of  Ciiktticaji^w  having  the  same  meaning  with 
Quetzalcoatl.  He  had  travelled  thither  with  a  branch  of  the 
Toltecs,  which,  advancing  from  west  to  east,  had  taken  Tabasco 
on  their  way,  and  occupied  the  peninsula  earlier  than  a  second 
branch,  which  entered  the  country  by  a  southern  route,  under 
the    command    of    their   chief    Tutulxm,    and    became    the    rival 

*  Veytia,  "  Hist.  Antigua  de  Mejico,"  tome  i.  cap.  xxv.  p.  233. 
t  Torquemada,  tome  11.  lib.  vi.  cap.  xxiii. 
X  Veytia,  "  Hist.  Antigua,"  tome  i.  cap.  xxvii. 

§  Tezomoc.    Duran.    Mendieta.    Gomara.    Sahagun,  append,  of  lib.  iii.  cap.  ix. 
Clavigero,  tome  i.  j).  151. 

II  'J'orqucmada,  tome  11.  lib.  vi.  cap.  xxiii. 


Tula,  85 

and  enemy  of  the  first,  whose  reigning  family  were  the  Cocomcs, 
"auditors."  The  worship  of  Ouetzalcoatl  extended  on  the 
plateaux  and  in  the  peninsula,  where  the  chiefs  claimed  to  be 
descended  from  him.  The  symbol  by  which  he  is  best  known 
is  "  feathered  serpent ; "  but  he  was  severally  called  Hucmac,'^' 
the  "  Strong  Hand,"  the  "  white  -  bearded  man,"  his  mande 
studded  with  crosses,  or  dressed  in  a  tiger's  skin  ;  "  god  of  air," 
when  he  was  the  companion  of  Tlaloc,  whose  path  he  swept, 
causing  a  strong  wind  to  prevail  before  the  rainy  season  ;  and 
also  a  youthful,  beardless  man,  etc.  The  various  attributes  of 
Quetzalcoad  and  Tlaloc  developed  according  to  the  people,  the 
country,  and  epoch.  Such  transformations  have  been  observed 
among  all  nations  :  in  India  the  great  Agni  was  at  first  but  the 
spark  produced  by  rubbing  two  pieces  of  wood  together,  which 
became  cloud,  dawn,  the  sun,  the  flash,  Indra,  etc.  With  the 
Greeks,  Apollo  was  the  god  of  light,  poetry,  music,  medicine, 
etc.  The  Christian  religion  presents  the  same  phenomenon  ; 
for  we  have  the  Ancient  of  Days,  the  Dove,  the  Lamb,  the 
Vine.  Thus  Tlaloc,  god  of  rain,  is  sometimes  seen  on  ancient 
vases,  his  eyes  circled  with  paper,  his  face  running  with  water ; 
or  as  an  embryo  cross,  a  perfect  cross  ;  and  again  in  the  form 
of  a  man  lying  on  his  back,  supporting  a  vase  to  collect  rain. 
The  latter  representation  is  found  in  Mexico,  Tlaxcala,  and 
Yucatan.  Several  writers  t  mention  that  crosses  were  found 
throughout  Mexico,  Yucatan,  and  Tabasco,  being  another  and 
later  personification  of  Tlaloc.  They  have  all  been  lost ;  but 
we  reproduce  those  found  by  us,  presenting  various  distinct 
forms.  The  cultus  of  the  cross  is  of  great  antiquity  and  almost 
universal,  for  we  find  it  in  Greece,   in   India,   on  pottery  of  the 

*  Torquemada,  cap.  xlv.    This  author  follows  the  writers  whom  he  quotes  in 
their  spelling  of  proper  names,  and  the  result  is  often  great  variety. 

t  Burgoa.     Botturini.     Tarabal.     Clavigero,  "  Hist.  Ant.,"  tome  i.  p.  152. 


86 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


Bronze    Period   (the    suastica) ;    whilst  among  the  Slaves  it   was, 
as  in  America,  the  god  of  storm  and  rain. 

The    same    may    almost    be    said    of  the    serpent.*       It   was 


^  f 


^^ 


Toltec  Crosses. 
No.  I,  Serpent's  Cross.     No.  2,  Cross  seen  on  Quetzalcoatl's  Tunic  and  on  the  Palaces  at  Mitla. 
No.  3,  Mayapan  Cross.     No.  4,  Cross  of  Teotihuacan.     Nos.  5  and  7,  Crosses  in  the  Temples 
of  Palenque.     No.  6,  Cross  met  with  in  the  Temples  of  Lorillard  City. 

reverenced  in  Egypt,  in  America,  and  is  found  at  the  beginning 
of  Genesi.^  ;  whilst  in  the  north-west  of  India,  the  Nagas  were 
serpent   worshippers,   whose  great   ancestor  Naga  was  supposed 


Fergusson's  "  History  of  Indian  Architecture,"  introd.  p.  41. 


Tula. 


87 


to  have  been  present  at  the  Creation  as  Genius  of  the  Ocean. 
He  was  the  god  of  wisdom,  the  titular  deity  of  mankind  ;  and 
we  find  him  at  Bceroe-Boedor,  in  Java,  beautifully  sculptured  on 
a  bas-relief,  where  Buddha  is  seen  crossing  the  seas  on  a  lotus- 
wreath,  whilst   close  to  him    two  immense  serpents   (Nagas)   are 


QUETZALCOATL,    UNDER    HIS    BEST-KNOWN    ATTRIBUTES. 


raising  their  heads  towards  him  in  token  of  reverence.  He  is 
also  worshipped  in  Cambodia,  and  his  image  is  reproduced  on 
the  magnificent  monuments  of  Angcor-Tom. 

The  festival  which  was  celebrated  in  honour  of  Ouetzalcoatl 
during  the  tcoxiJmitl,  "sacred  year,"  was  preceded  by  a  severe 
fasting  of  eighty  days,  during  which  the  priests  devoted  to  his 
service  were   subjected    to    horrible    penances.      He  reigned  sue- 


88  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


cessively  at  Izamal,  in  Yucatan,  Chichen-Itza,  and  Mayapan, 
under  the  name  of  CtiJmlcan.  To  this  god  were  ascribed  the 
rites  of  confession  and  penance. 

The  religion  of  the  Toltecs  was  mild,  like  their  disposition  ; 
no  human  blood  ever  stained  their  altars,  their  offerings  con- 
sisting of  fruits,  flowers,  and  birds  ;  nevertheless,  their  laws, 
which  were  the  same  for  all  classes,  were  stringent  and  severe. 
Polygamy  was  forbidden,  and  kings  themselves  were  not  allowed 
concubines,  whilst  their  priests  were  deserving  of  the  respect 
which  was  shown  them  from  prince  and  peasant  alike.  They 
had  sculptors,  mosaists,  painters,  and  smelters  of  gold  and  silver ; 
and  by  means  of  moulds  knew  how  to  give  metals  every  variety 
of  shape  ;  their  jewellers  and  lapidaries  could  imitate  all  manner 
of  animals,  plants,  flowers,  birds,  etc.  Cotton  was  spun  by  the 
women,  and  given  a  brilliant  colouring  both  from  animal  and 
mineral  substances  ;  it  was  manufactured  of  every  degree  of 
fineness,  so  that  some  looked  like  muslin,  some  like  cloth,  and 
some  like  velvet.  They  had  also  the  art  of  interweaving  with 
these  the  delicate  hair  of  animals  and  birds'  feathers,  which  made 
a  cloth  of  great  beauty.  Ixtlilxochitl*  is  afraid  to  pursue  the 
panegyric  of  this  people,  lest  it  should  appear  exaggerated. 
Their  calendar  was  adopted  by  all  the  tribes  of  Anahuac  and 
Central  America  ;  it  divided  the  year  into  eighteen  months  of 
twenty  days  each,  adding  five  intercalary  days  to  make  up  the  full 
number  of  three  hundred  and  sixty-five  days  ;  these  belonged  to 
no  month,  and  were  regarded  as  unlucky.  Both  months  and  days 
were  expressed  by  peculiar  signs  ;  and  as  the  year  has  nearly  six 
hours  in  excess  of  three  hundred  and  sixty-five  days,  they  provided 
for  this  by  intercalating  six  days  at  the  end  of  four  years,  which 
formed  leap  year.     Tlapilli,  "  knots,"  were  cycles  of  thirteen  years; 

*   Ixtlilxochiil,  fourth  "  Rclacion." 


Tula. 


89 


four  of  these  cycles  was  a  century,  which  they  called  xmhmolpilli, 
"binding  up  of  knots,"  represented  by  a  quantity  of  reeds  bound 


-j~_5^. 


,-- — (^  '':i!^L::i^"' 


COTTON   SPINNING. 


too-ether.     Besides  the   "bundle"  of  fifty-two  years,  the  Toltecs 
had  a  larger  cycle  of  one  hundred  and  four  years,  called  "  a  great 


9©  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

age,"  but  not  much  used.  The  whole  system  rested  on  the 
repetition  of  the  signs  denoting  the  years^  enabhng  one  by  means 
of  dots  to  determine  accurately  to  what  cycle  or  what  century  each 
year  belonged.  And  as  these  signs  stood  differently  in  each  cycle, 
confusion  was  impossible  ;  for  the  century  being  indicated  by 
a  number  showing  its  place  in  the  cycle,  the  dots  would  make  it 
easy  to  determine  to  what  age  any  given  year  belonged,  according 
to  its  place  at  knot  first,  second,  third,  or  fourth.  Thus  for 
instance,  the  year  tccpatl  "flint,"  calli  "house,"  tochtli  "rabbit," 
and  acatl  "  reed,"  beginning  the  great  cycle,  would  have  one, 
five,  nine,  thirteen  clots  in  the  first  series  ;  four,  eight,  twelve,  in 
the  second  ;  three,  seven,  fourteen,  in  the  third  ;  and  two,  six,  ten, 
in  the  fourth  series,  which  would  come  first  in  the  new  cycle,  and 
the  latter  having  its  appropriate  sign  would  enable  one  to  see  at 
once  that  "  Flint"  12  was  the  twelfth  year  in  the  second  series  of 
the  first  cycle  or  century  ;  that  "  Flint"  2  was  the  second  year  in 
the  fourth  series  of  the  first  cycle,  etc.     Example  : 

TLAPILLI. 
First  Series.  Second  Series. 

1.  Flint  6.  House  10.  House  i.  House 

2.  House  7.  Rabbit  11.  Rabbit  2.  Rabbit 

3.  Rabbit  8.  Reed  12.  Reed  3.  Reed 

4.  Reed  9.  Flint  13.  Flint  4.  Flint,  etc. 

5.  Flint. 


It  will  be  seen  later  that  the  hieroglyph  ca//i  is  the  outline  of 
the  Toltec  palace  and  temple,  the  foundation  of  his  architecture, 
which  never  varies,  and  which  we  shall  fmd  in  all  monuments, 
whether  we  travel  north  or  south,  on  the  plateaux  or  in  the  low- 
lands ;    so   that    had    everything    else    been    destroyed,   we  might 


Tula.  91 

nevertheless  pronounce  with  safety  that  all  the  monuments  in 
North  America  were  of  Toltec  origin.  The  genius  of  a  nation, 
like  that  of  an  individual,  has  generally  one  dominant  note, 
traceable  through  the  various  expressions  of  her  art.  India  has 
topes  2i\\di pagodas,  Egypt  sphinxes  and  hypostyle  chambers,  Greece 
three  orders  of  columns.  North  America  has  only  a  plain  wall 
ending  with  two  projecting  cornices  having  an  upright  or  slanting 
frieze,  more  or  less  ornamented  but  of  no  appreciable  difference. 

A  description  of  the  ceremonies  which  took  place  at  the  end  of 
every  great  cycle,  will  find  here  a  natural  place, 
and  enable  us  to  understand  subsequent  events. 

The  Aztecs  celebrated  their  great  festival 
of  the  new  fire  at  the  end  of  each  century  of  ^ 
fifty-two  years,  called  by  Sahagun  toxiuilpilli, 
and  by  others  xiuJunolpilli.  As  the  end  of 
the  century  drew  near  they  were  filled  with 
apprehension,  for  if  the  fire  failed  to  be  F 
rekindled,  a  universal  dissolution  was  expected 

CALLI,  IN    PROFILE. 

to  follow.  In  their  despair  at  such  a  con- 
tingency they  threw  away  their  idols,  destroyed  their  furniture 
and  domestic  utensils,  and  suffered  all  fires  to  go  out.  A  lofty 
mountain  near  Iztapalapan,  some  two  leagues  from  Mexico, 
was  the  place  chosen  for  kindling  the  new  fire,  which  was 
effected  by  the  friction  of  two  sticks  placed  on  the  breast  of 
the  victim.  The  fire  was  soon  communicated  to  a  funeral  pile, 
on  which  the  body  of  the  victim  was  placed  and  consumed. 
This  ceremony  always  took  place  at  midnight,  and  as  the  light 
mounted  up  towards  heaven  shouts  of  joy  burst  forth  from  the 
multitudes  who  covered  the  hills,  the  house-tops,  and  terraces  of 
the  temples,  their  eyes  directed  towards  the  mountain  of  sacrifice. 
Couriers,  with  torches  lighted  at  the  blazing  fire,  rapidly  bore  them 
to  the  inhabitants  of  the  surrounding  districts,  whilst  every  part  of 


92 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


the  citv  was  Horhted  with  bonfires.  The  followinor  davs  were 
given  up  to  festivity,  the  houses  were  cleansed  and  whitewashed, 
the  broken  vessels  were  replaced  by  new  ones,  and  the  people 
dressed  in  their  gayest  apparel.      It  we  except  human  sacrifice,  this 

must  have  been  a  Toltec  ceremonv.* 

*  Sahagun.  "  H:s:oria  de  las  Cosas  ce  la  Nueva  Espana,"  lib.  vii.  cap.  x.  to  xiii. 


CAPITAL,  FOUND   AT    11  LA. 


yANORE-iWjCiAK^^-^ 


THE    T'YRAMID   OF   THE   SUN,    TULA. 


CHAPTER   V. 


TULA.       PYRAMID    OF    THE    SUN.       ANTIQUITIES    OF    TULA. 


Caryatides — Columns — Capitals — Carved  Shell — Tennis-ring — Tlachtli — Ancient 
Bas-reliefs — Toltecs  Portrayed — Historical  Jottings — The  Temple  of  the  Frog 
— Indian  Vault — The  Plaza — El  Cerro  del  Tesoro. 

Tula  extended  over  a  plain  intersected  by  a  muddy  river  winding 
round  the  foot  of  Mount  Coatepetl,  which  commanded  the  city. 
The  modern  town  occupies  but  a  small  proportion  of  the  area  of 
the  ancient  capital,  and  the  few  antiquities  that  adorn  the  plaza 
were  found  in  clearing  the  river  of  some  of  its  mud  or  whilst 
ploughing  the  adjacent  fields. 

First  in  order  are  three  fragments  of  caryatides:  one,  a  gigantic 


94 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


statue  which  we  reproduce,  is  about  7  ft.  high  ;  the  head  and 
upper  part  of  the  body  below  the  hips  are  wanting,  the  legs 
are  i  ft.  3  in.  in  diameter,  and  the  feet  4  ft.  long.  The  two 
embroidered  bits  below  the  waist  were  no  doubt  the  ends  of  the 
royal    maxtli,    the    exact    copy    of  which  we    shall    see    later   on 


TOLTEC  CARYATID,  TULA. 

bas-reliefs  in  Chiapas,  Palenque,  and  Lorlllard  City.  The  greaves, 
of  leather  bands,  are  passed  between  the  toes  and  fastened  on 
the  instejj  and  above  it  by  large  knots,  recalling  the  Roman  cades. 
This  statue  is  of  black  basalt,  like  all  the  other  fragments  ;  and 
although    exceedingly    rude    and    archaic    in    character,    is    not 


Anti(.)Uities  of  Tula. 


95 


wanting  in  beauty  in  some  of  its  details.      Next  comes  a  column  in 
two    pieces,   lying    on  the   ground,   having    a  round  tenon   which 


PARTS   OF  A   COLUMN,  TULA. 


fitted  closely  into  the  mortise  and  ensured  solidity  ;  it  is  the  only 
specimen  we  have  found  where  such  care  had  been  bestowed. 
The  carving  on  the 
outward  portion  of 
the  column  consists 
of  feathers  or  palms, 
whilst  the  reverse  is 
covered  with  scales 
of  serpents  arranged 
in  parallel  sections. 
This  fragment  an- 
swers Sahagun's  de- 
scription about  the 
columns  of  a  temple 
dedicated  to  Quetzal-  -^^.^ 

coatl,  already  men- 
tioned, where  rattle- 
snakes formed  the  ornamentation, 
the  fact  that  we  shall  see  a  similar  column  at  Chichen-Itza  in  a 
temple  of  the  same  god.  Here  also  among  other  fragments  I 
noticed  a  Greek  column  with  a  Doric  capital,  but  on  which  I  dare 


TENNIS-RIXG,    TULA. 


It    is    also    interesting   from 


96  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


not  pronounce  definitely,  although  there  is  nothing  else  in  the 
place  denoting  Spanish  influence.  All  we  can  say  is  that  it  shows 
the  marvellous  building  instinct  of  the  Toltecs,  and  that  we  found 
some  remains  of  a  like  description  in  the  Yucatan  peninsula.  By 
far  the  most  interesting  object  seen  here,  on  account  of  the  study 
and  the  archaeological  issues  it  entails,  is  a  large  carved  stone  ring 
about  6  ft.  5  in.  in  diameter,  having  a  hole  in  the  centre  some  lo  in. 
in  circumference,  evidently  a  tennis-ring.  Tennis,  tlacheo,  tlachtli, 
was  first  known  in  Anahuac  and  transmitted  to  the  Chichemecs, 
i\colhuans,  and  Aztecs  by  the  Toltecs,  who  carried  it  with  them  to 
Tabasco,  Yucatan,  Uxmal,  and  Chichen  ;  and  in  the  latter  place 
we  found  a  perfect  tennis-court  with  one  ring  still  in  place. 

We  must  turn  to  Torquemada*  for  full  particulars  respecting 
this  national  game,  which  was  played  in  buildings  of  so  typical  a 
character  as  to  be  easily  recognised.  It  consists  of  two  thick 
parallel  walls  32  ft.  high,  at  a  distance  of  98  ft.  from  each  other, 
having  a  ring  fixed  in  the  walls  22  ft.  high,  as  seen  in  our  cut  ; 
whilst  at  each  extremity  of  the  court  stood  a  small  temple  in  which 
preliminary  ceremonies  were  performed  before  opening  the  game. 
It  was  played  with  a  large  india-rubber  ball  ;  the  rules  required 
the  player  to  receive  it  behind,  not  to  let  it  touch  the  ground,  and 
to  wear  a  tight-fitting  leather  suit  to  make  the  ball  rebound.  But 
the  greatest  feat  was  to  send  the  ball  through  the  ring,  when  a 
scramble,  a  rush,  and  much  confusion  followed,  the  winner  having 
the  right  to  plunder  the  spectators  of  their  valuables.  Sending 
the  ball  through  the  ring  required  so  much  dexterity,  that  he  who 
succeeded  was  credited  with  a  bad  conscience  or  supposed  to  be 
doomed  to  an  early  death.  Tennis  seems  to  have  been  in  such 
high  repute  with  the  Indians  that  it  was  not  confined  to  indi- 
viduals,   but    also    played    between    one    city    and    another,    and 

*  Torquemada,  "  Monaniuia  Indiana,"  lib.  11.  cap.  xii. 


Antiquities  of  Tula. 


97 


^^t^'K^^'S^ f%. 


accompanied,  says  Vcytia,  by  much  betting,  when  they  staked 
everything  they  possessed,  even  their  hberty.  But  this  writer 
errs  in  ascribing  the  game  to  the  Aztecs  in  honour  of  their  god 
Huitzilopochth,  as  we  shall  show. 

Among  other  objects  which  we  found  at  Tula  is  a  large 
curiously-carved  shell 
of  mother-of-pearl  ; 
the  carving  recalls 
Tizoc's  stone,  and 
notably  the  bas-re- 
liefs at  Palenque  and 
Ocosinco  in  Chiapas  ; 
also  two  bas-reliefs, 
one  in  a  rock  outside 
the  town,  the  other, 
by  far  the  most  valu- 
able, in  the  wall  of 
a  private  house,  but 
very  old  and  much 
injured,  representing 
a  full-face  figure  and 
another  in  profile  ; 
their  nose,  beard,  and 
dress  are  similar  to 
those     described     by 

Veytia*  in  the  following  passage :  "  The  Toltecs  were  above 
middle  height,  and  owing  to  this  they  could  be  distin- 
guished in  later  times  from  the  other  aborigines.  Their 
complexion  was  clear,  their  hair  thicker  than  the  nations  who 
followed    them,   although    less    so    than    the    Spaniards.      This    is 


WARRIOR  S    PROFILE,   FOUND   AT   TULA. 


*  Veytin,  tome  i.  chap,  xxxiv. 


98  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

still  observable  among  the  few  who  remain  claiming  Toltec 
descent." 

These  remains  are  priceless  in  every  respect  because  of  their 
analogy  and  intimate  connection  with  all  those  we  shall  subse- 
quently discover,  forming  the  first  links  in  the  chain  of  evidence 
respecting  our  theory  of  the  unity  of  American  civilisation,  which 
it  is  our  object  to  prove  in  the  course  of  this  work. 

On  beholding  these  caryatides,  the  question  naturally  arises 
as  to  what  monument  they  were  intended  for ;  and  in  turning 
to  Veytia,'''  we  read  that  under  the  Emperor  Mitl  (979  —  1035) 
the  Toltecs  reached  the  zenith  of  their  power ;  that  their 
empire  extended  over  one  thousand  miles,  bordering  on  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans ;  and  that  the  population  was  so 
dense  as  to  cause  the  soil  to  be  cultivated  on  the  highest 
mountains,  whilst  an  influential  priesthood  performed  the  sacred 
rites  within  innumerable  sanctuaries.  The  great  cities  of  the 
high  plateaux  were  Teotihuacan  and  Cholula,  as  later  Palenque, 
Izamal,  and  Cozumel  were  those  of  the  warm  region.  This 
emperor,  jealous  of  the  flourishing  state  and  religious  superiority 
of  Teotihuacan,  "  the  habitation  of  the  gods,"  wished  to  set 
up  a  new  and  rival  deity  for  the  veneration  of  his  people  ;  to 
this  end  he  chose  the  songstress  of  the  marsh,  the  "  Frog," 
whom  he  presented  as  the  goddess  of  waters.  And  that  the 
new  deity  should  be  ushered  in  with  due  pomp  and  solemnity, 
he  had  a  magnificent  temple  built  in  her  honour,  and  her  gold 
statue  placed  within  the  temple,  covered  with  emeralds,  the  size 
of  a  palm,  and  cunningly  worked  so  as  to  imitate  nature.  Up 
to  that  time,  temples  had  been  large  mounds  erected  on  the 
summits  of  mountains,  like  that  of  Tlaloc,  or  on  artificial 
pyramids    like    that    of   Teotihuacan,    where    the    idols   were    ex- 


*  Veytia,  tome  i.  chaj).  xxxiv. 


Antiouitiks  ok  Tula. 


99 


posed  to  the  elements ;  that  of  the  Frog  was  the  first  which 
was  built  with  stones  and  given  a  rectangular  shape,  having 
a  kind  of  solid  vault  (boveda),  also  of  stone,  zuJiich  by  a  skilful 
arrangement  covered  the  zuhole  edifice/''      Here,    then,   we   have   a 


•^^-Sf 


TOLTEC    KAS-RELIEFS. 


very  plain  description  of  the  Indian  vault,  the  Yucatec  vault, 
a  vault  we  have  observed  in  the  north  and  the  whole  extent 
of  our  Toltec  journey  ;  seen  by  Guillemin  Tarayre  in  the  tombs 
at    Las   Casas    Grandes,    mentioned    by    Ixtlilxochitl    as    the    dis- 


*  Mariano  Veytia,  tome  i.  chap,  xxviii. 


loo  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

tinguishing  feature  in  the  monuments  of  Toluca  and  Cuernavaca, 
and  by  Humboldt  at  Cholula  in  the  following  passage:  "On 
visiting  the  interior  of  the  pyramid,  I  recognised  a  mortuary 
chamber,  having  the  bricks  of  the  ceiling  so  arranged  as  to 
diminish  the  pression  of  the  roof.  As  the  aborigines  were 
unacquainted  with  the  vault,  they  provided  for  it  by  placing 
horizontally  and  in  gradual  succession  very  large  bricks,  the 
upper  slightly  overlapping  the  lower,  and  in  this  way  replaced 
the  Gothic  vault."'"'  This  remarkable  writer  further  says,  that 
"  Yucatan  and  Guatemala  are  countries  where  the  people  had 
come  from  Atylan  and  reached  a  certain  degree  of  civilisation."  t 
Far  greater  would  have  been  his  appreciation,  had  his  investi- 
•  gations  been  directed  to  the  Toltecs  and  Central  America, 
where  the  overlapping  vault  was  introduced  by  them  in  all 
public  edifices,  temples,  and  palaces.  With  the  testimony  of 
these  writers,  we  may  consider  the  vault  question  definitely 
settled. 

The  town,  or  rather  the  plaza,  with  its  diminutive  garden, 
planted  with  a  few  consumptive  shrubs  and  fiowers,  with  its 
porticoes  giving  access  to  the  Town  Hall,  the  Law  Courts, 
the  Church  and  shops,  only  gets  animated  on  Sundays 
and  market  -  days,  when  the  population  of  the  surrounding 
districts  pours  in  for  the  purpose  of  buying  or  selling.  Except 
meat,  all  articles  are  sold  on  the  ground,  spread  on  plantain 
leaves  or  clean  cloths ;  where  vendors  dispose  themselves  in 
long  rows  about  the  plaza,  offering  their  goods,  crockery,  and 
fruit.  Customers  stand  about  in  groups,  surveying  the  animated 
scene,  enjoying  a  little  gossip,  or  trying  to  drive  a  hard  bargain  ; 
whilst  Indian  matrons  ply  from  one  vendor  to  another  in  almost 
silent  dignity,  accompanied  by  their  daughters,  who  look  at  this 


*  Humboldt,  "  Vue  des  Cordilleres,"  p.  29.  t  Id.  p.  27. 


Antiquities  of  Tula.  103 

and  handle  that,  sometimes  with  the  intention  of  buying,  often 
to  exchange  a  few  words  with  the  merchant  or  an  acquaint- 
ance. Some  look  quite  pretty,  with  their  glorious  eyes,  their 
lonfj  hair  reaching  below  the  waist  in  two  lono:  plaits,  with 
glass  or  stone  beads  around  their  necks  ;  their  scanty  costume 
leaving  uncovered  their  shapely  arms,  necks,  and  ankles.  On 
looking  at  them,  I  seem  to  myself  to  be  carried  back  a 
thousand  years  amidst  that  grand  old  race  whose  ruins  I  am 
here  to  study.  Further  on,  under  a  monumental  ash-tree, 
primitive  kitchens  have  been  set  up,  round  which  a  dense 
throng  of  customers,  settled  on  the  ground,  are  enjoying  their 
tortillas,  or  when  they  are  well-to-do,  their  portion  of  black 
beans,  frijoles,  pork  or  turkey,  in  jicaras,  the  whole  highly 
seasoned  with  Chili  pepper ;  the  best  dinner  not  costing  more 
than  threepence. 

Every  human  type  seems  to  have  congregated  here,  from 
the  Egyptian  sharp  outline  of  features  to  the  flat- nosed,  flat- 
faced  Kalmuk.  Most  women  are  bare  to  the  waist ;  but  as 
this  seems  a  matter  of  course,   no  one  notices   it. 

The  area  of  ancient  Tula  has  now  been  under  cultivation 
for  three  hundred  years — hardly  a  desirable  condition  for  the 
explorer.  We  know  that  the  city  stood  here ;  but  its  only 
vestiges  are  to  be  found  on  the  hill  overlooking  the  town  to 
the  north.  It  was  called  Palpaii  in  the  time  of  the  Toltecs  ; 
but  now  it  is  known  as  Cein^o  del  Tesoro,  because  a  poor 
shepherd-boy,  some  twenty  years  since,  whilst  scratching  the 
moist  ground,  discovered  a  vase  with  five  hundred  gold  ounces 
in  it ;  but  not  knowing  the  value  of  his  newly-found  treasure, 
he  parted  with  it  for  a  few  coppers.  We  are  going  to  try 
our  luck  on  the  same  hill ;  and  better  advised  than  the  poor 
shepherd,  we  shall  not  give  up  our  discoveries  in  favour  ot 
any  one. 


RUINS   OF   A   TOLTEC   HOUSE. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

Palpan  and  the   Toltecs. 

Aspect  of  the  Hill — Mogotes — The  Toltecs  and  their  Building  Propensities — A 
Toltec  House — Antiquities — Fragments — Malacates — Toltec  Palace — Toltec 
Organisation — Dress — Customs — Education — Marriage — Orders  of  Knight- 
hood—  Philosophy — Religion — Future  Life  —  Pulque  —  End  of  the  Toltec 
Empire — Emigration. 


The  plateau  on  the  Palpan  hill,  of  which  we  give  a  ground  plan, 
was  occupied  by  a  royal  park,  and  maybe  those  of  a  few  notables. 
Its  direction  is  south-west,  north-west,  about  a  mile  in  length  and 
half-a-niile  in  breadth,  growing  to  a  point  towards  the  south-west, 
and  fenced  on  two  sides  by  a  natural  wall  of  perpendicular  rocks 
overhanging  the  river.  The  plateau  is  covered  with  mounds, 
pyramids,  and  esplanades,  showing  that  here  were  the  royal 
villas,  temples,  and  public  edifices,  but  no  trace  of  building,  wall, 
or   ruin,   is  visible,   for   the  whok?  area  is  shrouded   with   immense 


Palpan  and  the  Toltecs. 


lO: 


cactuses,  nopals,  gorambullos,  gum-trees,  and  mesquites,  amongst 
which  towers  the  biznaga,  a  cactus  which  grows  here  to  nearly 
lo  ft.  high  by  6  ft.  wide.  I  was  shown  a  plant  of  this  kind  near 
Pachuca,  in  which  an  Indian  couple  have  established  themselves. 

The  summits  of  pyramids,  called  mogotes  by  the  natives,  were 
always  occupied  by  temples  and  palaces  ;  the  largest  here.  No.  4 
and  No.  5  in  our  cut, 


»^;^:_:<-,^tfi;,^^v;"  w:jijvAf  ;,v  ■^'^ajmrnii^ 


must  have  served  as 
basements  for  the 
temples  of  the  Sun 
and  Moon.  Unfor- 
tunately they  have 
been  opened  and  ran- 
sacked by  treasure- 
seekers,  and  half- 
demolished  by  brick- 
layers, who  found 
here  materials  ready 
to  hand  for  their 
constructions. 

I  began  my  exca- 
vations by  sounding 
the  small  mound 
No.  I  to  the  north- 
east,   where   the   side 

of  a  wall  was  visible  ;  and  I  found  everywhere  the  ground  con- 
necting houses,  palaces,  and  gardens,  thickly  coated  with  cement  ; 
but  in  the  inner  rooms  the  flooring  was  of  red  cement.  The 
rubbish  was  cleared  away,  and  in  a  few  days  a  complete  house 
was  unearthed,  consisting  of  several  apartments  of  various  size, 
nearly  all  on  different  levels ;  having  frescoed  walls,  columns, 
pilasters,   benches,    and    cisterns,    recalling   a    Roman   implMvium, 


GROUND  PLAN  OF  FIRST  TOLTEC  HOUSE  UNEARTHED  AT  TULA 
(FROM   LEMAIRE). 

A,  Cisterns.    B,  Various  Apartments.    C,  Kitchen. 
D,  Seats.    E,  Entrance. 


io6 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


whilst  flights  of  steps  and  narrow  passages  connected  the  various 
apartments.     We  had  brought  to  Hght  a  Toltec  house ! 

I  picked  out  of  the  rubbish  many  curious  things  :   huge  baked 
bricks,  from  one  foot  to  nine  inches   by   two  and  two  and  a  half 


ri.AN   OF   THE   HIl.L   AT   TULA   (ANCIENT    TALTAN). 

No.  I,  Excavations  of  Toltec  House.  No.  2,  Tomb  Excavated.  No.  3,  Palace  Excavations. 
Nos.  4  and  5,  Pyramids  of  Sun  and  Moon.  No.  6,  Esplanades  and  Mounds,  Sites  of  Ancient 
Dwellings.     No.  7,  Tlachtli,  Tennis-Court.     No.  8,  Tula  River, 


in  thickness  ;  filters,  straight  and  curv^ed  water-pipes,  vases  and 
fragments  of  vases,  enamelled  terra-cotta  cups,  bringing  to  mind 
those  at  Tenenepanco ;  seals,  one  of  which  (an  eagle's  head)  I  had 
engraved  for  my  personal  use  ;   bits  which  were  curiously  like  old 


Palpan  and  the  Toltecs. 


107 


Japanese  china  ;  moulds,  one  having  a  head  with  a  huge  plait  and 
hair  smoothed  on  both  sides  of  her  face,  like  an  old  maid  ; 
besides  innumerable  arrow-heads  and  knives  of  obsidian  strewing 
the  ground.      In  fact,   a  whole  civilisation. 

This  house,  the  first  it  was  our  fortune  to  discover,  was  built 
on  a  somewhat  modified  natural  elevation  ;  the  various  apart- 
ments   follow   the 

direction     of    the        n ■;.a^^j^fe:;^«^:^,,,,,,  „„_^  ■   "■  -  ■      '    ^''■^'^■^fe^^a 

ground  and  are 
ranged  on  dif- 
ferent levels,  num- 
bering from  zero 
elevation  for  the 
lowest  to  8  ft. 
for  the  highest. 
The  walls  are 
perpendicular,  the 
roofs  flat  ;  and  a 
thick  coatino-  of 
cement,  the  same 
everywhere,  was 
used,  whether  for 
roofs,  ceilings, 
floors,  pavements, 
or  roads. 

On  examininof 


GROUND  PLAN  OF  TOLTEC  PALACE  UNEARTHED  AT  TULA  (LEMAIRE). 

No.  I.  Principal  Court.  No.  2,  Facade.  No.  3,  Entrance.  No.  4, 
Reception  Apartment.  No.  5,  Ruined  W^all.  No.  6,  Enclosures 
for  Animals.  No.  7,  Right  W^ing  of  the  Palace.  No.  8,  Left 
Wing. 


the  monuments  at  Tula,  we  are  filled  with  admiration  for  the 
marvellous  building  capacity  of  the  people  who  erected  them  ; 
for,  unlike  most  primitive  nations,  they  used  every  material  at 
once.  They  coated  their  inner  walls  with  mud  and  mortar, 
faced  their  outer  walls  with  baked  bricks  and  cut  stone,  had 
wooden     roofs,    and     brick    and    stone    staircases.       Thev    were 


io8  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

acquainted  with  pilasters  (we  found  them  in  their  houses),  with 
caryatides,  with  square  and  round  columns  ;  indeed,  they  seem  to 
have  been  familiar  with  every  architectural  device.  That  they 
were  painters  and  decorators  we  have  ample  indications  in  the 
house  we  unearthed,  where  the  walls  are  covered  with  rosettes, 
palms,  red,  white,  and  gray  geometrical  figures  on  a  black  ground. 
My  next  soundings  were  towards  the  centre  of  the  hill,  at 
a  mound  marked  No.  2,  which  I  took  at  first  for  a  tomb  ;  but 
finding  nothing,  I  directed  my  men  south-east,  at  the  extremity 
of  the  hill,  No.  3.  Here  we  attacked  a  pyramid  of  considerable 
size,  thickly  covered  with  vegetation,  having  a  hole  and  a  thick 
plaster  coating,  which,  to  my  extreme  delight,  revealed  an  old 
palace,  extending  over  an  area  of  nearly  62  ft.  on  one  side,  with 
an  inner  courtyard,  a  garden,  and  numerous  apartments  on 
different  levels,  ranged  from  the  ground-floor  to  8  ft.  high,  exactly 
like  the  first  house  ;  the  whole  covering  a  surface  of  2,500  square 
yards.  We  will  give  a  description  of  it,  together  with  the 
probable  use  of  the  various  apartments.  No.  i  (see  plan)  is  the 
inner  courtyard,  which  we  take  as  our  level  ;  No.  3  to  the  right, 
paved  with  large  pebbles,  is  the  main  entrance.  Facing  this  to 
the  left,  No.  7  is  a  small  room  about  4  ft.  high,  which  was  entered 
by  a  flight  of  seven  low  steps  ;  it  is  a  Belvedere,  from  which  a 
view  of  the  whole  valley  could  be  obtained.  Next  comes  No.  4, 
perhaps  a  reception-room,  32  ft.  long,  having  two  openings  towards 
the  court.  On  the  other  side,  to  the  north,  is  a  smaller,  narrower 
Belvedere,  from  which  an  ante  room,  on  a  slightly  lower  level, 
furnished  with  benches,  was  reached.  The  main  body  of  the 
palace  consists  of  ten  apartments  of  different  size,  with  stuccoed 
walls  and  floors.  The  facade,  No.  2,  S  ft.  high,  opens  on  the 
courtyard ;  whilst  two  winding  stone  staircases  to  the  right, 
and  an  equal  number  to  the  left,  led  to  the  apartments  on  the 
first  storey.      Brick    steps,   covered  with  a  deep  layer  of  cement, 


Palpan  and  the  Toltecs. 


109 


connected  the  various  chambers.  The  cells  on  both  sides  of 
the  main  apartments  may  have  been  the  servants'  quarters. 
No.  6,  No.  6,  are  a  kind  of  yards,  without  any  trace  of  roof,  and 
if  we  are  to  judge  from  Aztec  dwellings,  they  were  probably 
enclosures  for  domestic  and  wild  animals.  The  Americans,  says 
Clavigero,"'    had    no    tlocks ;     nevertheless    their    table    was    well 


VIEW  OF  RUINED  TOLTEC  PALACE, 


supplied  by  innumerable  animals  to  be  found  about  their  dwell- 
ings, and  unknown  to  Europe ;  whilst  the  poor  people  had  an 
edible  dog,  tcchichi,  the  breed  of  which  was  lost  by  the  abuse 
the  Spaniards  made  of  It  in  the  early  times  of  the  Conquest. 
Royal  palaces  had  extensive  spaces  reserved  for  turkeys,  ducks, 
and  every  species  of  volatile,  a  menagerie  for  wild  animals, 
chambers  for  reptiles   and   birds  of  prey,  and   tanks   for  fish  ;  so 

*  Clavigero,  tome  i.  lib.  vii.  p.  224. 


no  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

that  the  purpose  we  ascribe  to  these  enclosures  becomes  highly 
probable.  Here  and  there  closed-up  passages,  walls  rebuilt 
with  materials  other  than  those  employed  in  the  older  con- 
struction, seem  to  indicate  that  the  palace  was  occupied  at  two 
different  periods  ;  this  would  agree  with  Veytia'"  when  he  says, 
"  that  on  the  Chichemecs  invading  the  country  under  the 
command  oi  Xolotl,  they  found  Tula  {cir.  1117)  deserted,  and 
grass  growing  in  the  streets  ;  but  that  the  King  was  so  pleased 
with  the  site  that  he  ordered  the  monuments  to  be  repaired 
and  the  town  inhabited.  He  followed  the  same  policy  at 
Teotihuacan  and  other  places,  ordering  his  people  to  preserve 
old  names,  and  only  authorising  them  to  give  new  appellations 
to  those  they  should  build  themselves." 

The  building  we  unearthed  is  entire,  its  outer  wall  intact; 
presenting  a  valuable  specimen  of  the  houses  dating  long  before 
the  Conquest.  Here  we  found  the  same  kind  of  objects  as 
in  our  first  excavations  :  plates,  dishes,  three-footed  cups  having 
striated  bottoms  and  used  for  grinding  Chili  pepper  ;  fragments 
of  pottery,  enamels,  terra-cotta  whorls  of  different  size  covered 
with  sunk  designs  having  a  hole  in  the  centre.  These  whorls 
are  called  ''  nialacates^'  by  the  natives,  and  used  by  Indian 
women  to  this  day.  A  round  piece  of  wood  or  spindle-stick  is 
introduced  in  the  hole  of  the  whorl,  projecting  about  five  inches 
from  the  lower  plane,  and  about  nine  inches  from  the  upper. 
The  spinner,  who  is  sitting,  rests  the  point  of  her  spindle  on 
a  varnished  plate,  and  impels  it  round  with  her  thumb  and 
forefinger,  twisting  the  cotton  or  wool  attached  thereto.^  In 
Mexico,   rich  ladies  used  a  golden  plate. § 


*  Veytia,  tome  11.  chap.  i.  f  Jbid.  chap.  ii. 

X  Similar  spindles,  with  whorls  attached,  have  been  found  in  Egypt  and  the 
Swiss  Lakes. 

§  Sahagun,  "  Hist,  de  las  Cosas  de  Espana,"  lib.  ix.  cap.  v. 


PaLPAN    and    the    ToLTECS.  Ill 

The  edifice  No.  7  is  undoubtedly  a  tennis-court,  for  it 
answers  exactly  the  description  given  by  historians  of  such 
structures  ;  moreover,  I  found  one  of  the  rings  still  in  place. 
Veytia  is  wrong,  therefore,  in  crediting  the  Mexicans  with  the 
invention  of  the  game  ;  were  it  so  we  should  not  have  found  a 
tennis-court  at  Chichen-Itza.  Mendieta'"  relates  how  Tezacatlipoca 
came  down  from  his  celestial  abode  on  a  spider's  ladder,  and 
how  in  his  long  peregrinations  on  earth  he  visited  Tula,  brought 
thither  by  his  jealousy  of  Ouetzalcoatl,  whom  he  challenged  to 
play  tennis  ;  but  the  latter  turning  into  a  tiger  discomfited  him 
utterly.  The  spectators  were  so  terrified  that  they  fled,  and 
in  the  tumult  which  ensued  many  were  drowned  in  the  river 
flowing  close  by. 

This  tradition  shows  plainly  that  tennis  existed  in  the  remote 
period  of  Ouetzalcoatl's  rule  at  Tula  ;  that  the  game  was  of 
Toltec  origin,  that  the  court  was  on  the  hill,  since  the  spectators 
in  their  precipitancy  to  run  away  were  drowned,  that  Ouetzalcoatl 
was  a  good  tennis-player,  and  that  the  expression,  "  he  was 
turned  into  a  tiger,"  is  merely  honorific,  applied  to  him  on 
the  spot  for  having  sent  his  ball  through  the  ring.  This  passage 
also  explains  the  tiger  frieze  over  the  tennis-court  at  Chichen-Itza. 

The  Toltecs  had  public  granaries  which  were  opened  to 
the  people  in  time  of  famine.  A  passage  in  Cuauhtitlan  seems 
to  indicate  that  the  resistance  they  opposed  to  a  grasping 
and  bloodthirsty  priesthood,  was  one  of  the  chief  causes  of 
their  downfall.!  "  Under  the  mild  rule  of  Ouetzalcoatl,  demons 
tried  in  vain  to  persuade  him  to  allow  vicn  born  at  Tula  to  be 
sacrificed.  As  for  himself,  his  offerings  were  birds,  serpents,  and 
butterflies  he  had  captured  in  the  valley." 

*  Mendieta,  "  Hist.  Eccles.  Indiana,"  lib.  11.  cap.  v. 

t  Cuauhtitlan's   Annals,  translated  by  Sanchez  Solis,  "  Annals  of  the  Mexican 
Museum." 


112  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

The  Toltecs  were  peaceful,  their  organisation  was  feudal  and 
aristocratic,  indicative  of  conquest,  yet  their  government  was 
paternal.  Besides  the  great  feudatory  lords,  they  had  military 
orders  and  titles,  which  were  bestowed  on  distinguished  soldiers 
for  services  in  the  field  or  the  council,  and  finally  the  celebrated 
order  of  the  TeciiJUlis,  which  was  divided  in  sub-orders  of  the 
"  tiger,"  the  "  lion,"  the  "  eagle,"  and  other  animals,  each  having 
its  peculiar  privileges.  The  initiatory  ceremonies  resembled 
somewhat  those  attending  our  knights  of  the  Middle  Ages,  and 
may  interest  the  reader. 

At  the  nomination  of  a  candidate,  all  the  tecuhtlis  assem- 
bled in  the  house  of  the  new  knight,  whence  they  set 
out  in  a  body  for  the  temple,  where  the  high  priest,  at 
the  request  of  the  neophyte,  perforated  his  nose  and  ears 
with  a  pointed  tiger's  bone,  or  an  eagle's  claw,  inserting 
in  the  holes  thus  made  twigs,  which  were  changed  every 
day  for  larger  ones,  until  the  healing  of  the  wound ;  pro- 
nouncing the  while  invocations  to  the  gods  that  they  would 
give  the  novice  the  courage  of  the  lion,  the  swiftness  of  the 
deer,  etc.  ;  followed  by  a  speech  in  which  he  was  reminded 
that  he  who  aspires  to  the  dignity  of  a  tecuhtli,  must  be 
ready  to  perform  the  duties  of  his  new  office.  He  was 
henceforth  to  be  distinguished  by  greater  meekness,  patience, 
forbearance,  and  moderation  in  all  things,  together  with  sub- 
mission to  the  laws.  After  this  speech,  he  was  deprived  of 
his  rich  garments,  and  dressed  in  a  coarse  tunic ;  the  only 
articles  of  furniture  allowed  him  were  a  common  mat  and  a 
low  stool.  He  was  besmeared  with  a  black  preparation,  and 
only  broke  his  fast  once  in  twenty-four  hours  with  a  tortilla 
and  a  small  cjuantity  of  water.  Meanwhile  the  priests  and 
tecuhtlis  came  in  turns  to  feast  before  the  novice,  and  make 
his    fast   more   intolerable,   heaping   insults  and  injurious   epithets 


Palpan  and  the  Toltecs.  i  j  3 

upon  the  man  who  stood  meekly  before  them  ;  jostling  and 
pointing  their  fingers  jeeringly  at  him.  At  night  he  was  only 
allowed  to  sleep  a  few  minutes  at  a  time  ;  and  if  overcome 
by  sleep,  his  guardians  pricked  him  with  the  thorn  of  the 
maguey. 

"  At  the  expiration  of  sixty  days  the  new  knight,  accompanied 
by  friends  and  relatives,  repaired  to  some  temple  of  his  own 
district,  where  he  was  received  by  the  whole  order  of  tecuhtlis, 
ranged  In  two  rows  on  each  side  of  the  temple,  from  the  main  altar 
down  to  the  entrance.  He  advanced  alone,  bowing  right  and  left  to 
each  tecuhtli,  until  he  reached  the  idol,  where  the  mean  garments 
he  had  worn  so  long  were  taken  off  by  the  oldest  tecuhtli,  his  hair 
bound  up  in  a  knot  on  the  top  of  his  head  with  a  red  string; 
whilst  a  wreath,  having  a  medallion  with  his  motto  graven  on  It, 
circled  his  brow.  He  was  next  clad  in  rich  and  fine  apparel,  orna- 
mented and  delicately  embroidered ;  in  his  hands  he  received 
arrows  and  a  bow  ;  balls  of  gold  were  inserted  in  his  ears  and 
nostrils,  and  a  precious  stone,  the  distinctive  badge  of  his  order, 
hung  from  his  lower  lip.  The  ceremony  ended  with  another 
discourse  to  the  effect  that  the  neophyte  should  aim  at  being 
liberal,  just,  free  from  arrogance,  and  willing  to  devote  his  life  to 
the  service  of  his  country  and  his  gods."  '"" 

The  Toltecs  paid  great  attention  to  the  Instruction  of  youth. 
Texcuco  possessed  schools  of  art,  In  which  the  broad  principles 
laid  down  by  their  forefathers  were  doubtless  remembered,  differing 
from  those  of  the  Aztecs,  whose  exaggerated  religiosity  caused 
them  to  leave  the  education  of  children  entirely  in  the  hands 
of  the  priests.  That  the  latter  were  less  influential  with  the 
Toltecs  seems  indicated  In  the  following  passage  :  "Among  the 
various  sumptuous  edifices  at   Utatlan  was  the  college,  having  a 

*  Veytia,  tome  i.  chap.  ix. 


114 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World, 


staff  of  seventy  teachers,  and  five  or  six  thousand  pupils,  who  were 
educated  at  the  pubHc  expense."*  The  truth  of  this  account  is 
borne  out  by  the  fact  that  the  city  was  only  destroyed  in  1524  by 
Alvarado,  so  that  the  early  missionaries  had  ample  opportunity 
given  them  to  collect  materials  for  a  trustworthy  history. 

Marriage  among  the  Toltecs  was  celebrated  with  ceremonies  it 
may    interest    the    reader    to    know    something    about.      On    this 


FEMALE   DANCERS   AND   TECUHTLTS,  FROM    RAMIREZ   MS.  AND    FATHER   DURAN. 

No.  I,  Knight  of  the  Kite.       No.  2,  Knight  of  the  Tiger.      No.  3,  Teponaztli.      No.  4,  Huehuetl. 

No.  5,  Knight  of  the  Eagle. 

occasion  friends  and  relations  were  invited,  the  walls  of  the  best 
apartment  were  adorned  with  pretty  devices,  made  with  flowers 
and  evergreens,  whilst  every  table  and  bracket  was  covered  with 
theni.  The  bridegroom  occupied  a  seat  to  the  right,  the  bride  sat 
on  the  floor  to  the  left  of  the  hearth,  which  stood  in  the  middle  of 
the  room,  where  a  bright  fire  was  burning.     Then  the  "  marriage- 


*  Juarros,  "  Compendio  do  la  Hist,  de  la  Ciudad  de  Guatemala,"  tome  i.  p.  87. 


Palpan  and  the  Toltecs.  115 

maker,"  as  he  was  called,  stood  up  and  addressed  the  young 
people,  reminding  them  of  their  mutual  duties  in  the  life  they  were 
about  to  enter,  and,  at  the  termination  of  his  speech,  they  were 
given  new  cloaks,  and  received  the  good  wishes  and  congratula- 
tions of  their  friends,  who  as  they  came  up  threw  each  in  turn 
some  perfume  on  the  hearth.  Now  the  bride  and  bridegroom 
were  crowned  with  chaplets  of  flowers,  and  the  day  was  wound  up 
with  dance,  music,  and  refreshments.  There  was  also  a  religious 
ceremony  similar  to  this  in  all  respects,  in  which  a  priest 
officiated ;  when  instead  of  cloaks  they  put  on  costly  dresses 
with  a  skeleton  head  embroidered  on  them,  and  thus  attired, 
the  new  married  couple  were  accompanied  to  their  home  and 
left  to  themselves.* 

In  order  to  have  a  complete  idea  of  this  extraordinary  people, 
a  few  words  upon  their  philosophy  and  ethics  may  find  an  appro- 
priate place  here.  A  Toltec  maiden,  about  to  enter  into  life,  was 
admonished  with  great  tenderness  by  her  father  to  preserve 
simplicity  in  her  manners  and  conversation,  to  have  great  neatness 
in  attire  and  attention  to  personal  cleanliness.  He  inculcated 
modesty,  faithfulness,  and  obedience  to  her  husband,  reminding 
her  that  this  world  is  a  place  of  sorrow  and  disappointment,  but 
that  God  had  given  as  a  compensation  domestic  joys  and  material 
enjoyments  ;  softening  his  advice  by  such  endearing  words  as  : 
"daughter  mine,  my  beloved  daughter,  my  precious,"  etc.  Nor  was 
the  advice  of  a  mother  less  touching — breathing  throughout  a 
parent's  love:  "My  beloved  daughter,  my  little  dove,  you  have  heard 
the  words  which  your  father  has  told  you.  They  are  precious 
words,  such  as  are  rarely  spoken,  and  which  have  proceeded  from 
his  heart.  Speak  calmly  and  deliberately  ;  do  not  raise  your  voice 
very  high,  nor  speak  very  low,  but  in  a  moderate  tone.     Neither 

*  Veytia,  tome  n.  chap.  iii. 


ii6  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

mince,  when  you  speak,  nor  when  you  salute,  nor  speak  through 
your  nose  ;  but  let  your  words  be  proper,  and  your  voice  gentle. 
In  walking,  see  that  you  behave  becomingly,  neither  going  with 
haste,  nor  too  slowly  ;  yet,  when  it  is  necessary  to  go  with  haste, 
do  so.  When  you  are  obliged  to  jump  over  a  pool  of  water,  do  it 
with  decency.  Walk  through  the  streets  quietly  ;  do  not  look 
hither  and  thither,  nor  turn  your  head  to  look  at  this  and  that ; 
walk  neither  looking  at  the  skies  nor  at  the  g^round.  See  likewise 
that  you  neither  paint  your  face  nor  your  lips,  in  order  to  look 
well,  since  this  is  a  mark  of  vile  and  immodest  women.  But  that 
your  husband  may  take  pleasure  in  you,  adorn  yourself,  wash 
yourself,  and  wear  nothing  but  clean  clothes,  but  let  this  be  done 
with  moderation,  since  if  you  are  over  nice — too  delicate — they 
will  call  you  tapetzeton,  tineinaxoch.  This  was  the  course  and 
the  manner  of  your  ancestors.  In  this  world  it  Is  necessary  to  live 
with  prudence  and  circumspection.  See  that  you  guard  yourself 
carefully  and  free  from  stain,  for  should  you  give  your  favour  to 
another  who  is  not  your  husband,  you  would  be  ruined  past  all 
recall  ;  since  for  such  a  crime  they  will  kill  you,  throw  you  into  the 
street  for  an  example  to  all  the  people,  where  your  head  will  be 
crushed  and  dragged  upon  the  ground,"  etc.* 

We  will  end  these  quotations  by  the  advice  to  a  son  :  "  My 
beloved  son,  lay  to  heart  the  words  I  am  going  to  utter,  for 
they  are  from  our  forefathers,  who  admonished  us  to  keep  them 
locked  up  like  precious  gold-leaf,  and  taught  us  that  boys  and 
girls  are  beloved  of  the  Lord.  For  this  reason  the  men  of  old, 
who  were  devoted  to  His  service,  held  children  in  great  reverence. 
They  roused  them  out  of  their  sleep,  undressed  them,  bathed 
them  in  cold  water,  made  them  sweep  the  temples  and  offer 
copal    to    the   gods.       They    washed    their   mouths,    saying    that 

*  Sahagun,  lib.  vi.  cap.  xix. 


"VOUNG   TOLTEC    GIRL,   FROM    MODERN    INDIAN    TYl  ES    AND    FATHER    DURAN's  "HIST.   DE    LAS    INDIAS." 


Palpan  and  tiik  Toltecs  119 


God  heard  their  prayers  and  accepted  their  exercises,  their  tears, 
and  their  sorrow,  because  they  were  of  a  pure  heart,  perfect, 
and  without  blemish,  hke  chalchikuitl  (precious  stones).  They 
added  that  this  world  was  preserved  for  their  sake,  and  that 
they  were  our  intercessors  before  Him.  Satraps,  wise  men,  and 
those  killed  by  lightning  were  supposed  to  be  particularly 
agreeable  to  the  Sun,  who  called  them  to  himself  that  they 
might  live  for  ever  in  his  presence  in  a  perpetual  round  of 
delight,"    etc."' 

And  what  can  be  more  beautiful  than  the  prayer  addressed 
to  Tlaloc  :  "  O  l^ord,  liberal  Quiver  of  all  thingfs,  Lord  of  freshness 
and  verdure.  Lord  of  sweet-smelling  paradise.  Lord  of  incense 
and  copal.  Alas !  your  vassals,  the  gods  of  water,  have  dis- 
appeared, and  lie  concealed  in  their  deep  caverns,  having  stowed 
away  all  things  indispensable  to  life,  although  they  continue  to 
receive  the  iilli  yanhtii  and  copal  offering.  They  have  also 
carried  away  their  sister,  the  goddess  of  substance.  O  Lord, 
have  pity  on"  us  that  live.  Our  food  goes  to  destruction,  is 
lost  and  dried  up  for  lack  of  water  ;  it  is  as  if  turned  to  dust  and 
mixed  with  spiders'  webs.  Wilt  thou  have  no  pity  on  the 
macehuetes  and  the  common  people,  who  are  wasted  with 
hunger,  and  go  about  unrecognisable  and  disfigured  ?  They 
are  blue  under  the  eyes  as  with  death  ;  their  mouths  are  dry 
as  sedge  ;  all  the  bones  of  their  bodies  show  as  in  a  skeleton. 
The  children  are  disfigured  and  yellow  as  earth  ;  not  only  those 
that  beofin  to  walk,  but  even  those  in  the  cradle.  This  torment 
of  hunger  comes  to  every  one ;  the  very  animals  and  birds 
suffer  from  dire  want.  It  is  pitiful  to  see  the  birds,  some 
dragging  themselves  along  with  drooping  wings,  others  falling 
down    unable   to  walk,   and    others   with    their   mouth    still    open 

*  Sahagun,  lib.  vi.  cap.  xxi. 


I20  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

through  hunger  and  thirst.  O  Lord,  Thou  wert  wont  to  give 
us  abundantly  of  those  things  which  are  the  Hfe  and  joy  of 
all  the  world,  and  precious  as  emeralds  and  sapphires  ;  all  these 
things  have  departed  from  us.  O  Lord  God  of  nourishment, 
most  kind  and  compassionate,  what  hast  Thou  determined  to 
do  with  us  ?  Hast  Thou  utterly  forsaken  us  ?  Shall  not  Thy 
wrath  and  indignation  be  appeased  ?  Wilt  Thou  destroy  these 
Thy  servants,  and  leave  this  city  and  kingdom  desolate  and 
uninhabited  ?  Is  it  so  decreed  in  heaven  and  hades  ?  O 
Lord,  grant,  at  least,  that  these  innocent  children,  who  cannot 
so  much  as  walk,  and  those  still  in  the  cradle,  may  have 
somethingf  to  eat,  so  that  thev  mav  live  and  die  not  in  this 
terrible  famine.  What  have  they  done  that  they  should  be  so 
tried,  and  should  die  of  hunger  ?  They  have  committed  no 
iniquity,  neither  do  they  know  what  thing  it  is  to  sin ;  they 
neither  offended  the  gods  of  heaven  nor  the  gods  of  hell.  We, 
if  we  have  offended  in  many  things,  if  our  sins  have  reached 
heaven  and  hades  and  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  world, 
it  is  but  just  that  we  should  be  destroyed.  O  Lord,  in- 
vigorate the  corn  and  other  substances,  much  wished  for 
and  much  needed,  now  sown  and  planted ;  for  the  ridges 
of  the  earth  suffer  sore  need  and  ansfuish  from  lack  of  water. 
Grant,  O  Lord,  that  the  people  receive  this  favour  and  mercy 
at  Thine  hand  ;  let  them  see  and  enjoy  the  verdure  and  coolness 
which  are  as  precious  stones.  See  good  that  the  fruit  and 
the  substance  of  the  Tlalocs  be  criven,  which  are  the  clouds 
that  these  gods  carry  with  them  and  that  give  us  rain.  May 
it  please  Thee,  O  Lord,  that  the  animals  and  herbs  be  made 
glad,  and  that  the  fowls  and  birds  of  precious  feather,  such 
as  the  quechotl  and  the  qaqiian,  fly  and  sing  and  feast  upon 
the  herbs  and  flowers.  And  let  not  this  come  about  with 
thunder  and  lightning,  symbols  of   Thy  wrath  ;    for  if  our  lords 


PaLPAN    and    the    ToLTECS.  121 

the  Tlalocs  come  in  this  way,  the  people,  being  lean  and  very 
weak  with  hunger,   would  be  terrified."  * 

The  degree  of  culture  of  a  nation  can  be  gauged  from  its 
religion,  and  notably  its  ideas  of  a  future  life.  The  beauty 
and  eloquence-loving  Greek  discoursed  upon  philosophy  walking 
under  noble  porticoes  ;  the  thoughts  of  the  barbarous  worshipper 
of  Woden  were  of  bloody  fights,  and  of  wassail  in  which  he 
drank  hydromel  out  of  his  enemies'  skulls  ;  the  Arab  goes  to 
sleep  cradled  on  the  lap  of  houris  ;  the  Red  Indian  dreams  of 
endless  hunting-fields,  whilst  the  starving  Bushman  hopes  for 
a  heaven  of  plenty.  The  Toltec  is  the  only  one  whose  aspira- 
tions beyond  the  grave  are  free  from  grossness  and  cruelty ; 
his  heaven  is  a  resting-place  for  the  weary,  a  perpetual  spring, 
amidst  flowers,   fields  of  yellow  maize,  verdure  and  flowers. 

From  these  graver  matters  we  will  pass  to  the  legend, 
told  by  Veytia,  which  makes  Papantzin  the  inventor  of  pulque  ; 
and  although,  in  our  opinion,  he  places  this  event  too  late,  it 
is  none  the  less  instructive  as  showing  another  side  of  Toltec 
history.  In  the  year  1049,  or,  according  to  Clavigero,  1024- 1030, 
Tecpancaltzin  was  one  day  taking  his  siesta  in  the  palace,  when 
Papantzin,  one  of  his  great  nobles,  presented  himself  together 
with  his  daughter,  the  beautiful  Xochitl  ("flower"),  bearing,  with 
other  gifts  to  the  king,  a  kind  of  liqueur,  made  from  the  maguey 
juice  by  a  process  of  which  Papantzin  was  the  inventor.  The 
new  drink  pleased  the  royal  palate,  and  the  lovely  form  and 
face  of  the  young  maiden  were  still  more  pleasing  to  the  royal 
taste.  The  king  expressed  his  desire  to  have  more  of  the 
new  beverage  at  the  hands  of  the  fair  Xochitl,  adding  that 
she  might  bring  it  unattended  save  by  her  nurse.  Proud  of 
the  honour  shown  him,  Papantzin  a  few  days  later  sent  Xochitl, 

*  Sahagun,  lib.  vi.  cap.  viii. 


122  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


accompanied    by    a    dueiia,     with    some    pulque.       Xochitl    was 
introduced    alone    to    the    presence    of    Tecpancaltzin.       Bravely 
the  maiden  resisted  the   monarch's  protestations  of  ardent  love, 
but  alone  and  unprotected  she  was  unable  to  resist   the    threats 
and    violence    used    against    her.       She    was    then    sent    to    the 
strongly-guarded  palace  of  Palpan  near  the  capital  ;  "    and  there, 
cut    off  from    all    communication    with    parents    or    friends,    she 
lived    as    the   king's    mistress.      Her    father    meanwhile  was   told 
that  his  daughter  had   been   entrusted   by   the   king  to  the   care 
of  some   matrons,   who   would   perfect  her  education   and  fit  her 
for   a    high    position    among    the    court    ladies.      Meanwhile    the 
king  visited  Xochitl,  and  in   105 1  a  child  was  born,  who  received 
the    name    of   Meconetzin    ("child    of    the    maguey"),    and    later 
that   of   Topiltzin   (the    "  Justicer "  *),  by   which   he   is  known    in 
history.       But    at    last    Papantzin,    suspecting    that    all    was    not 
right    with    his    daughter,    visited    the    palace    of    Palpan    in    the 
disguise   of  a  labourer;    he   found  her  and    listened   to    the    tale 
of  her  shame.      His  wrath  knew  no  bounds,  but  he  was  quieted 
with    the    king's    promise    that    the    child    should    be    proclaimed 
heir    to    the    throne,    and    that,    should    the    queen    die,    Xochitl 
would    succeed    her    as    his    legitimate    consort.       It    should    be 
mentioned      that      polygamy     and      concubinage     were      strictly 
forbidden    among    the    Toltecs    of    that    period  ;     that    the    laws 
were    binding    on    king    and    peasant    alike  ;     and    this    explains 
why    Tecpancaltzin   was    obliged    to    keep    his    love    for    Xochitl 
secret,    until    he  was   free   to   proclaim    her   publicly    his    queen  ; 
a    step    which    was    fraught   with    endless    evils    for    his  country, 
since    after     his     death     the     Toltec     princes,     who     were     thus 
deprived    of    their    hope    of    succession,    broke    out    into    open 
hostilities.       The     most     powerful     of     these     and     nearest     to 


*  Veytia,  tome  i.  chap.  xxix. 


INDIAN    KING,  DRAWN    FROM    CLAVIGERO,  RAMIREZ   MS.,  AND   FATHER   DURAN. 


Palpan  and  the  Toltecs.  125 

the  throne  was  Huehuetzin;*  with  him  were  banded  the 
caciques  of  the  northern  provinces  beyond  JaHsco  and  those 
bordering  on  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  when  after  years  of  warfare, 
followed  by  calamitous  inundations,  tempests,  droughts,  famine, 
and  pestilence  (1097),  the  Toltecs,  greatly  reduced  in  numbers, 
dispersed ;  some  directing  their  march  south  (the  Toluca  and 
Cuernavaca  branch),  others  going  north  (the  Tula  and  Teoti- 
huacan  branch)  founded  establishments  at  Tehuantepec,  Guate- 
mala, Goatzacoalco,  Tabasco,  and  Campeche ;  whilst  a  few 
remained  at  Cholula  and  Chapultepec.t  IxtlilxochitlJ  places  this 
event  in  1008.  Sixteen  hundred  are  said  to  have  settled  at 
Colhuacan,  intermarried  with  Chichemec  caciques,  and  founded 
the  family  from  which  the  kings  of  Texcuco  were  descended. 
Clavigero  writes  that  the  miserable  remains  of  the  nation  found 
a  remedy  in  flight  (1031  — 1050),  some  settling  in  Yucatan  and 
Guatemala,  whilst  others,  with  the  two  sons  of  Topiltzin,  re- 
mained in  the  Tula  valley,  and  that  their  grandsons  were 
subsequently  closely  connected  with  the  royal  families  of  Mexico, 
Texcuco,  and  Colhuacan. §  Finally  Torquemada||  writes  "that 
they  were  counselled  by  the  devil  to  abandon  their  country  to 
escape  utter  annihilation,  and  that  the  account  of  their  migrations 
is  to  be  found  in  Acolhuan  histories,  written  in  peculiar  characters 
as  is  the  custom  of  these  aborigines." 

The  Toltec  soldiers  wore  a  quilted  cotton  tunic  that  fitted  closely 
to  the  body  and  protected  also  the  shoulders  and  thighs  ;  their  offen- 
sive weapons  consisted  of  spears,  light  javelins,  and  clubs  studded 
with  steel,  silver,  or  gold  nails.  They  used  a  copper  currency, 
which  a  short  while  ago  was  still  found  among  the  Tutupecans.lf 

*  Veytia,  tome  i.  chap,  xxxiii.  t  ^f^id- 

%  Ixtlilxochitl,  " Relaciones,"  Kingsborough,  tome  ix.  pp.  332  and  333. 
§  Clavigero,  tome  i.  lib.  ii.  p.  54. 

II  Torquemada,  "  Monarquia  Indiana,"  tome  i.  lib.  i.  cap.  xvi. 
IF  Ixtlilxochitl,  ut  supra. 


126  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

These  quotations,  which  might  be  muhiphed,  clearly  prove 
that  the  Toltecs  migrated  south,  following  the  coasts  of  both 
oceans  ;  that  they  ceased  to  exist  as  a  nation  after  the  disrup- 
tion of  their  empire  ;  but  that  their  scattered  remnants  carried 
on  the  work  of  civilisation  in  Central  America,  on  the  high 
plateaux,  and  in  Anahuac  ;  evidenced  in  the  strong  resemblance 
that  the  civilisations  of  these  various  regions  bear  to  one 
another. 

We  will  close  this  chapter  with  a  few  words  about  the 
Chichemecs,  who  occupied  the  valley  after  the  Toltecs.  Their 
emperor  Xolotl  made  Tenayuca,  to  the  west  of  Lake  Texcuco, 
his  capital,  and  despatched  four  chiefs,  with  a  strong  escort,  to 
explore  the  country  in  every  direction.  They  were  absent  four 
years,  and  in  their  report  (1124)  they  stated  that  they  had  met 
with  some  Toltecs  in  the  region  formerly  held  by  them  ;  but  that 
the  greater  proportion  had  founded  important  colonies  in  the 
far-off  provinces  of  Tehuantepec,  Guatemala,  Tecocotlan,  and 
Tabasco.  Nopaltzin,  the  son  of  this  emperor,  sent  likewise 
emissaries  from  Teotihuacan,  whose  report  was  to  the  effect  that 
they  had  found  a  few  Toltecs  scattered  in  five  different  places, 
who  told  them  of  their  hardships,  adding  that  most  of  their  fellow- 
citizens  had  gone  farther  west  and  south. 

From  these  quotations  it  is  clearly  seen  that  the  date  of  the 
oldest  edifices  in  Tabasco  cannot  be  anterior  to  the  beginning 
of  the  twelfth  century ;  *  that  Toltec  influence  was  felt  simul- 
taneously on  the  high  plateaux  and  in  Central  America,  shown 
by  the  flourishing  small  Toltec  state  of  Colhuacan,  where  King 
Architometl  (1231)  had  revived  those  arts  and  sciences  his 
ancestors  had  initiated,  and  which,  since  their  extermination, 
had    fallen    into    utter  decay.       This    king   succeeded   so  well    in 

*  Veyiia,  tome  11.  chaps,  ii.,  iii. 


Palpan  and  the  Toltecs, 


I  2' 


his  enlightened  policy  that  his  country  became  an  intelligent 
centre,  which  proved  so  beneficial  to  the  barbarous  Chichemecs. 

Nopaltzin,  following  the  example  of  Xolotl,  compelled  those 
of  his  subjects  who  still  lived  in  caverns  to  build  houses,  live 
in  communities,  cultivate  the  land,  and  feed  on  prepared  viands. 
He  invited  jewellers  and  lapidaries  from  Colhuacan  to  teach 
his  people,  instituting  prizes  for  those  who  became  proficient 
in  mechanical  arts,  and  also  for  those  who  made  astrology,  his- 
torical paintings,  and  the  deciphering  of  ancient  manuscripts  their 
particular  study.*  And,  lastly,  in  the  closing  words  of  Veytia's 
account,  he  says:  "Among  the  documents  I  possess  for  the 
completion  of  my  work  are  several  bearing  on  the  Mexicans. 
I  found  no  difficulty  in  reading  the  paintings  and  maps ;  but 
although  they  are  systematically  classified  as  regards  events 
posterior  to  their  arrival  in  the  valley,  it  is  very  different  with 
their  antiquities,  their  origin,  and  their  wanderings ;  their 
documents  relating  to  this  period  being  more  rare  and  obscnre 
than  those  of  the   To  I  tecs  J' t 

Having  proved,  and  we  think  we  have  proved,  the  diffusion 
of  Toltec  arts  and  industries  among  the  primitive  populations  of 
America,   we   will  proceed  to   Teotihuacan. 


*  Mariano  Veytia,  tome  ii.  chap.  x. 


t  Ibid.  chap.  xii. 


lURAL  TAINTING  OF  TOLTEC  HOUSE.     {Seep.  105,  Toltec  House.) 


"^1 


PYRAMIDS   OF   SUN   AND   MOON,  TEOTIHUACAN. 


CHAPTER    VII. 


TEOTIHUACAN. 


Quotations — Pre-Toltec  Civilisation — Egyptian  and  Teotihuacan  Pyramids  Com- 
pared— General  Aspect  of  the  Pyramids — Cement  Coatings — Tlateles  and 
Pyramids  —  Idols  and  Masks  —  Description  by  Torquemada  —  S.  Martin's 
Village — Pulque  and  Mezcal — S.  Juan  of  Teotihuacan. 


On  account  of  its  vicinity  to  Mexico,  Teotihuacan  has  been  so 
often  described,  that  there  is  little  or  nothing  to  be  said  which 
has  not  been  well  said  before.  She  was  a  flourishing  city  at 
the  time  of  the  Toltecs,  and  the  rival  of  Tula ;  and  like  her 
was  destroyed  and  subsequently  rebuilt  by  the  Chichemec 
emperor  Xolotl,  preserving  under  the  new  rdgime  her  former 
supremacy.  In  the  opinion  of  Veytia,  Torquemada,  and  other 
historians,  Teotihuacan  was  a  Toltec  city  ;  and  my  excavations 
in  bringing  to  light  palaces  having  nearly  the  same  arrangement 


Teotihuacan.  129 


as  those  at  Tula,  will  confirm  their  opinion.  The  orienta- 
tion of  this  city  is  indicated  by  Clavigero  in  the  following 
passage  : 

"  The  famous  edifices  at  Teotihuacan,  three  miles  north  of 
this  village  and  twenty-five  from  Mexico,  are  still  in  existence." 

The  two  principal  pyramids  were  dedicated  to  the  Sun  and 
Moon,  and  were  taken  as  models  for  building  later  temples  in 
this  reo^ion.  That  of  the  Sun  is  the  most  considerable,  measur- 
ing  680  feet  at  the  base  by  180  feet  high.  Like  all  great 
pyramids,  they  were  divided  into  four  storeys,  three  of  which 
are  still  visible,  but  the  intermediate  gradations  are  almost 
effaced.  A  temple  stood  on  the  summit  of  the  larger  mound, 
having  a  colossal  statue  of  the  Sun,  made  of  one  single  block 
of  stone. 

Its  breast  had  a  hollow,  in  which  was  placed  a  planet  of 
fine  gold.  This  statue  was  destroyed  by  Zumarraga,  first  Bishop 
of  Mexico,  and  the  gold  seized  by  the  insatiable  Spaniards.  The 
interior  of  the  pyramid  is  composed  of  clay  and  volcanic  pebbles, 
incrusted  on  the  surface  with  the  light  porous  stone,  tdzontli ; 
over  this  was  a  thick  coating  of  white  stucco,  such  as  was  used 
for  dwellings.  Where  the  pyramid  is  much  defaced,  its  incline 
is  from  thirty- one  to  thirty-six  degrees,  and  where  the  coatings 
of  cement  still  adhere,  forty-seven  degrees.  The  ascent  was 
arduous,  especially  with  a  burning  sun  beating  down  upon  us  ; 
but  when  we  reached  the  top,  we  were  amply  repaid  by  the 
glorious  view  which  unfolded  before  our  enraptured  gaze.  To 
the  north  the  Pyramid  of  the  Moon,  and  the  great  "  Path  of 
Death "  [Micoail),  with  its  tombs  and  tumuli,  covering  a  space 
of  nine  square  miles ;  to  the  south  and  south-west  the  hills  of 
Tlascala,  the  villages  of  S.  Martin  and  S.  Juan,  the  snowy 
top  of  Iztaccihuatl  towering  above  the  Matlacinga  range ;  and 
in  the  west   the  Valley  of  Mexico  with  its   lakes,  whilst  far,  far 


130  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

away  the  faint  outline  of  the  Cordilleras  was  perceptible   in  this 
clear  atmosphere. 

If  by  an  effort  of  the  imagination  we  were  to  try  and  re- 
construct this  dead  city,  restore  her  dwellings,  her  temples  and 
pyramids,  coated  with  pink  and  white  outer  coatings,  surrounded 
by  verdant  gardens,  intersected  by  beautiful  roads  paved  with 
red  cement,  the  whole  bathed  in  a  flood  of  sunshine,  we  should 
realise  the  vivid  description  given  by  Torquemada :  "  All  the 
temples  and  palaces  were  perfectly  built,  whitewashed  and  polished 
outside  ;  so  that  it  gave  one  a  real  pleasure  to  view  them  from 
a  little  distance.  All  the  streets  and  squares  were  beautifully 
paved,  and  they  looked  so  daintily  clean  as  to  make  you  almost 
doubt  their  being  the  work  of  human  hands,  destined  for  human 
feet ;  nor  am  I  drawing  an  imaginary  picture,  for  besides  what 
I  have  been  told,  I  myself  have  seen  ruins  of  temples,  with 
noble  trees  and  beautiful  gardens  full  of  fragrant  flowers,  which 
were  grown  for  the  service  of  the  temples."  This  quotation 
goes  far  to  prove  that  the  ruins  are  not  so  ancient  as  some 
writers  have  maintained ;  but  that  temples  and  palaces  were 
extant  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  and  that  pyramids  were 
repaired  by  the  successive  occupants  of  the  soil,  even  during 
the  wars  which  a  displacement  of  races  naturally  entailed. 

The  outline  of  the  pyramids  is  everywhere  visible,  and 
serves  as  a  beacon  to  guide  the  traveller  to  the  ruins  of 
Teotihuacan,  about  thirty-seven  miles  north  of  Mexico.  Besides 
these,  there  are  some  smaller  mounds  to  the  south,  indicating 
that  the  ancient  city  extended  as  far  as  Matlacinga  hill,  which 
bounds  the  valley  on  this  side,  whilst  it  stretched  six  miles  to 
the  north. 

We  set  out  under  the  escort  of  an  Indian,  and  soon 
reach  an  immense  mound  known  as  the  Citadel,  measuring  over 
1,950   feet   at   the  sides.      It  is  a  quadrangular  enclosure,  consist- 


Teotihuacan.  131 


ing  of  four  embankments  some  19  feet  high  and  260  feet  thick, 
on  which  are  ranged  fifteen  pyramids  ;  whilst,  towards  the  centre, 
a  narrower  embankment  is  occupied  by  a  higher  pyramid,  which 
connects  the  north  and  south  walls.  The  shape  of  the  citadel 
bears  a  strong  resemblance  to  a  vast  tennis-court,  and  if  not 
the  latter,  it  was  in  all  probability  used  for  public  ceremonies, 
but  never  as  a  citadel.  A  little  further  we  crossed  a  dry  water- 
course, which  becomes  a  torrent  in  the  rainy  season.  The  bed 
is  full  of  obsidian  pebbles,  some  transparent,  some  opaque  green, 
but  most  of  a  grayish  tint.  On  the  opposite  bank  of  the  torrent 
we  observed  in  some  places  three  layers  of  cement,  laid  down 
in  the  same  way,  and  consisting  of  the  same  materials,  as  I 
can  certify,  notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  said  to  the 
contrary. 

This  cement  is  identical  with  that  of  Tula,  except  that  there 
it  was  probably  done  for  the  sake  of  solidity,  since  it  is  only 
to  be  met  with  on  the  declivity  of  the  hill ;  whereas  here,  where 
the  city  was  demolished  several  times,  it  was  due  to  the  fact 
that  the  new  occupant  did  not  care  to  clear  the  ground  of  all 
the  rubbish,  but  contented  himself  with  smoothing  down  the 
old  coating  and  laying  a  new  one  on  the  top  of  it.  This  sup- 
position becomes  almost  a  certainty  when  we  add  that  numerous 
fragments  of  pottery  have  been  found  between  the  layers.  This 
is,  besides,  amply  exemplified  in  Rome  and  other  cities,  where 
ancient  monuments  are  divided  from  later  ones  by  thick  layers 
of  detritus ;  nor  is  it  necessary  for  a  long  interval  to  have 
occurred  between  the  two.  On  the  other  hand,  if  we  suppose 
the  soil  between  the  coatings  to  have  accumulated  there  by  the 
work  of  time,  an  antiquity  must  be  ascribed  to  these  first  con- 
structions which  would  simply  be  ridiculous ;  and  we  think 
that  if  Mendoza  had  visited  the  ground,  his  conclusions  would 
have  been  much  modified.     Traces  of  edifices  and  walls  occupy 


132  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

the  base  of  the  torrent,  showing  that  the  bed  was  narrower 
formerly  than  it  is  now,  and  that  it  was  presumably  embanked 
and  spanned  by  several  bridges.  As  we  advance  towards  the 
Pyramid  of  the  Sun,  fragments  of  all  kinds  meet  our  eyes  in 
every  direction  ;  the  fields  are  strewn  with  pottery,  masks,  small 
figures.  Lares,  ex-votos,  small  idols,  broken  cups,  stone  axes, 
etc.  I  select  for  myself  some  masks  which  portray  the  various 
Indian  types  with  marvellous  truth,  and  at  times  not  without 
some  artistic  skill.  Among  them  are  types  which  do  not  seem 
to  belong  to  America :  a  negro  (see  plate),  whose  thick  lips, 
fiat  nose,  and  woollen  hair  proclaim  his  African  origin ;  below 
this  a  Chinese  head,  Caucasian  and  Japanese  specimens  ;  heads 
with  retreating  foreheads,  like  those  displayed  at  Palenque,  and 
not  a  few  with  Greek  profiles.  The  lower  jaw  is  straight  or 
projecting,  the  faces  smooth  or  bearded ;  in  short,  it  is  a 
wonderful  medley,  indicative  of  the  numerous  races  who  suc- 
ceeded each  other,  and  amalgamated  on  this  continent,  which, 
until  lately,  was  supposed  to  be  so  new,  and  is  in  truth  so  old. 
Some  writers,  on  viewing  the  configuration  of  these  massive 
mounds,  have  erroneously  concluded  that  they  were  built  for 
the  same  purpose  as  the  Egyptian  pyramids ;  but  we  cannot 
sufficiently  impress  on  the  reader  that  in  America  the  pyramid 
was  synonymous  with  temple,  or  used  as  basement  for  temples 
and  palaces.  People  may  have  been  buried  in  the  former,  as 
they  were  buried  in  the  latter  ;  but  that  is  no  evidence  of  any 
analogy  subsisting  between  them.  In  Egypt  the  pyramid  was 
a  sepulchre  and  nothing  more,  which  received  additions  each 
successive  year,  and  assumed  smaller  or  greater  dimensions, 
according  to  the  longevity  of  the  sovereign  who  erected  it. 
The  gigantic  pyramids  of  Cheops,  Chephren,  and  Mycerinus, 
correspond  to  reigns  of  sixty  years  each  ;  the  smaller  correspond 
to   short    reigns    in    which    kings  were    not    given    time   for  con- 


Ti:OTII[UACAX. 


^33 


structing  great  monuments.  Now,  the  American  mounds  belong 
to  one  epoch,  were  built  on  one  plan  without  any  intermission. 
Architecture,  whether  civil  or  religious,  entirely  differs  in  the 
two  countries.  In  Egypt  palaces'  were  built  of  wood;  in 
America  they   were   built    of   stone.     Among   Egyptians  temples 


TERKA-COTTA    MASKS   AND    HEADS    FOUND    AT   TEOTIIIUACAN. 


were  colossal  ;  among  Americans,  on  the  contrary,  they  were 
small,  primitive,  hardly  more  than  altars.  The  temple  was  all- 
important  with  the  former,  the  palace  with  the  latter.  In  fact, 
the  two  polities  were  diametrically  opposed,  save  on  such  points 
of  contact  as  are  common  to  all  races  in  the  early  stage  of  their 
civilisation. 


134  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

Some  writers,  arguing  from  the  existence  of  a  civilisation 
anterior  to  the  Incas,  concluded,  with  some  show  of  reason, 
that  there  existed  a  pre-Toltec  civilisation  also  ;  but  a  moment's 
reflection  will  show  that  no  parallel  exists  between  the  two ; 
for  the  former,  in  a  climate  eminently  favourable  to  the  pre- 
servation of  monuments,  has  hardly  left  any  trace,  whilst  the 
latter,  in  a  climate  peculiarly  destructive,  has  left  whole  cities 
and  monuments  in  almost  perfect  preservation.  In  Peru,  the 
people  who  followed  the  earlier  races  used  extant  remains  for 
the  foundations  of  their  monuments,  as,  for  instance,  at  Cuzco  ; 
whereas  in  Mexico  and  Central  America  monuments  were  re- 
paired and  restored  on  the  same  plan  as  that  on  which  they 
had  been  erected.  It  follows  that  in  Peru  edifices  are  totally 
different  in  character  from  the  foundations  and  cyclopean  walls 
which  support  them,  unless  the  ruins  of  Las  Casas  Grandes  be 
considered  pre-Toltec  ;  but  even  so  they  would  be  the  remains 
of  edifices  constructed  by  the  first  Nahua  tribes  in  their  progress 
towards  the  south. 

Our  digression  has  sharpened  our  appetites,  and  we  hasten 
to  the  "fonda"  by  a  short  cut  across  imposing  structures  and 
the  remains  of  houses  built  by  the  Spaniards  who  first  settled 
here  after  the  Conquest.  Although  they  tried  to  build  on  the 
same  principles  as  the  Indians,  they  succeeded  indifferently,  for 
their  constructions  are  but  a  ruinous  mass,  in  the  courtyards 
and  open  walls  of  which  the  poor  Indians  have  established  their 
cabins.  These  cabins  measure  barely  six  feet  square  ;  yet 
within  them  whole  families  lie  huddkid  up  together  on  the 
beaten  ground,  nearly  suffocated  in  summer,  almost  frozen  in 
winter,  nursing  their  misery.  A  few  beans,  a  tortilla,  is  all 
the  food  they  have,  and  often  not  even  that.  Their  children 
are  numerous,  but  more  than  half  die  in  the  first  years  for 
want    of   ];roper  care.      The   men    earn   one   shilling  a  day — one 


Teotihuacan, 


^35 


shilling  to  feed,  clothe,  and  house  eight  or  nine  people.  What 
wonder  if  they  are  in  tatters  which  leave  them  half  uncovered, 
exposed  to  the  mercy  of  the  elements  ?  Outside  these  huts — 
for  the   inside  does  not   own  so  much  as  a  wooden  peg — stands 


ROAD   TO   S.  MARTIN. 


the  metate,  before  which  women  are  kneeling  nearly  the  whole 
day  grinding   Indian  corn  for  tortillas. 

"  Why  don't  you  put  a  roof  over  these  standing  walls  ? 
You  would  get,  at  very  small  cost,  a  comfortable  dwelling 
for  your  families." 

"  But,  senor,  we  have  no  wood." 

"What,  with  all  those  trees  about?" 


136  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


"Ah,  senor,  we  should  have  to  pay  for  them,  and  where 
is  the   money   to  come  from  ?  " 

*'  Why,  then,  club  together,  three  or  four  families  of 
you.  These  huge  houses  are  quite  spacious  enough  for  the 
purpose." 

They  only  shook  their  heads  incredulously ;  so  simple 
a  notion  was  quite  beyond  them.  As  their  fathers  lived 
before  them,  so  they  do,  and  will  continue  to  do  so  for 
a  long  time  to  come.  We  gave  a  few  coppers  to  the  poor 
wretches  to  drink  our  health  in  pulque,  which  is  excellent 
here,  the  magttcy  reaching  sometimes  twenty  feet  in  diameter, 
and  the  leaves  nine  feet  ten  inches  in  length.  I  am  told  that 
some  plants  yield  as  much  as  600  litres  of  liquid.  The  way 
the  juice  is  extracted  from  the  aloe  is  this  :  Every  five  years, 
just  as  the  maguey  is  about  to  bloom,  shooting  up  a  long  stalk 
crowned  with  its  umbelliferous  flowers,  the  cone  forming  the 
centre  of  the  plant  is  taken  out,  leaving  a  hole,  which  soon 
fills  with  the  sap  of  the  leaves  around  it.  Then  a  man  with 
a  bottle  and  a  large  skin  plies  daily  from  plant  to  plant,  taking 
up  the  liquid  with  the  bottle  and  pouring  it  into  the  skin, 
which,  when  full,  he  empties  into  an  open  receptacle,  made  of 
a  bull's  hide  stretched  out  on  four  poles.  When  the  juice  Is 
sufficiently  fermented,  bitter  herbs  are  added,  and  the  pulque 
Is  then  ready  for  sale. 

Mescal  is  a  kind  of  brandy  made  from  a  smaller  kind  of 
aloe,  not  unlike  a  huge  cabbage  In  shape.  To  prepare  It,  roots 
and  leaves  are  left  to  soak  until  they  are  duly  fermented ;  a 
calf's  head  or  the  best  part  of  a  chicken  is  added  to  the  com- 
pound previous  to  distillation.  In  the  first  case  It  Is  called 
mezcal  cabecita ;  In  the  second,  considered  the  finest  In  flavour, 
mezcai  pccJniga.  The  best  Indian  cognacs  are  manufactured  at 
Jalisco. 


CHURCH   OF   S.  JUANj  TEOTIHUACAN. 


Teotiiiuacan.  139 


S.  Martin,  where  we  are  going  to  put  up  for  the  night,  is 
situated  on  the  driest  spot  in  the  valley,  so  that  the  only  green 
things  to  be  seen  about  it  are  its  enormous  hedges  of  aloe, 
shooting  up  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  high,  and  so  thick  as 
to  make  them  quite  impassable.  Our  next  stage  is  S,  John 
of  Teotihuacan,  which  was  formerly  a  station  for  the  numerous 
relays  of  mules  plying  to  and  from  Mexico,  when  more  than 
two  thousand  passed  daily.  Then  every  village  had  ''  mesones  "  * 
and  an  immense  "  corrale,"  in  which  mules,  horses,  and  donkeys 
were  put  up,  whence  the  clapping  of  hands  of  the  tortilleros 
was  heard  all  day  long,  and  copious  libations  to  the  Indian 
Bacchus  were  the  reverse  of  edifying.  But  now  all  that  is 
over.  The  railroad  has  turned  S.  Juan  into  a  living  tomb. 
The  plaza  is  deserted,  tiendas  are  silent,  and  windows 
only  open  when  the  tramping  of  some  wretched  donkey  or  a 
stray  traveller  disturb  its  solitude.  Water,  that  first  of  com- 
modities, is  plentiful  here,  and  great  poplars,  beautiful  cedars, 
lend  their  cool  shade,  and  make  our  walk  to  the  church,  which 
stands  at  the  end  of  a  noble  avenue,  quite  enjoyable.  This 
church  is  one  of  the  finest  to  be  seen  in  Mexico.  The  steeple, 
with  its  three  orders  of  columns  rising  on  three  successive  tiers, 
is  striking  for  its  elegance  and  fine  proportions. 

We  alight  here  without  much  hope  of  being  comfortable,  for 
the  only  accommodation  is  a  meson,  with  a  courtyard  giving 
access  to  bare  rooms  paved  with  bricks,  devoid  of  any  furniture, 
and  where  privacy  is  impossible,  for  anybody  may  come  and 
lie  alongside  of  you.  Your  ablutions  have  to  be  made  at  the 
well  in  presence  of  half  the  village  congregated  in  the  yard. 
When  you  are  hungry  you  go  to  the  "fonda"  in  the  plaza,  where 
the  good   man  who    keeps  it   does   his  best   to   cook  you  a  nice 

*  Hostelries. 


140 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


dinner,  which  we  eat  to  spare  his  feelings  rather  than  because 
we  Hke  his  menu.  But  if  the  cuisine  left  something  to  be 
desired,  it  was  amply  made  up  to  us  by  the  Municipality,  and 
it  was  owing  to  their  kindly  help  that  we  were  able,  within  a 
few  hours,  to  muster  men  in  sufficient  numbers  to  begin  our 
operations. 


MIIESTONK,   OR    VOTI\E   COLUMN,   TFOTIHUACAN. 


RUIiNS   OF   A   I'ALACE,  TEOTIHUACAN. 


*4& 


'-4'- 


CHAPTER   VIII. 


TEOTIHUACAN  {continued\ 

Ruins  of  a  Teotihuacan  Palace  — Cemetery — Bull-Fighting — Pits  and   Quarries- 
Excavations— A  Toltec  Palace— Ants— Ancient  Tombs — Sepulchral  Stone. 

After  a  brief  survey  I  discovered  traces  of  cement,  which  made 
it  evident  that  part  of  the  village  is  built  on  the  site  of  the 
ancient  city ;  so  I  made  up  my  mind  to  try  my  luck  here 
before  venturing  into  the  very  heart  of  the  ruins,  which  I  wished 
to  take  time  to  study.  I  began  by  opening  four  trenches  in 
a  small  square  used  for  bull-fighting,  not  far  from  Plaza  ]\Iayor. 
The  first  two  yielded  nothing  particular,  the  next  gave  more 
satisfactory  results  ;  for  here  we  came  upon  some  dozen  children's 
tombs,  and  five  or  six  adults',  if  we  are  to  judge  from  vases  and 
other  objects  we  found,  for  nothing  could  be  made  of  the  bones, 
which  crumbled  into  dust.  The  few  vases  we  unearthed  are  made 
of  black  clay,  with  hollow  lines,  not  unlike  those  at  Tula.     They 


142  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

have  flat  bottoms  from  six  to  seven  inches  wide,  with  open  brims, 
and  from  two  to  three  inches  high.  Close  to  them  were  found 
traces  of  skeletons,  which  we  know  to  have  been  those  of  poor 
people,  for  the  bodies  of  the  rich  were  burnt  and  their  ashes  placed 
in  tombs.  The  vases  were  often  found  in  couples ;  they  are 
unfortunately  so  old,  the  ground  is  so  hard  as  to  form  one  mass 
with  the  vase,  and  so  notwithstanding  all  our  precautions,  all  our 
care  in  digging  the  ground  and  taking  it  up  with  daggers,  they 
were  broken  to  pieces,  and  I  was  only  able  to  save  a  few.  As  to 
the  bodies,  they  were  so  far  gone,  that  it  was  impossible  to 
ascertain  their  position  ;  they  were  generally  found  from  one  foot 
three  inches  to  one  foot  nine  inches,  and  three  feet  three  inches 
deep.  The  children  were  buried  in  a  kind  of  circular  vases,  with 
upright  brims  ;  two  of  the  skeletons  were  almost  perfect,  but  the 
skulls,  as  thin  as  a  sheet  of  paper,  fell  to  pieces  at  my  touch.  On 
the  same  day  I  unearthed  a  goodly  number  of  terra-cotta  figures,  a 
fine  moulded  mask,  an  axe,  a  few  pots,  one  of  which  is  ribbed  and 
beautifully  moulded,  a  number  of  small  round  pebbles,  evidently 
marbles  buried  with  the  children ;  besides  a  large  quantity  of 
obsidian  knives,  by  far  the  finest  and  lightest  I  have  seen  ;  round 
pieces  of  slate,  presumably  used  as  currency,  besotes,  rings  worn  on 
the  lower  lip,  arrow-heads,  whilst  numerous  sheets  of  mica  were 
found  in  every  tomb.'"'  Among  human  remains  we  also  noticed 
those  of  the  teckichi,  edible  dog,  parts  of  birds,  and  victuals,  to 
sustain  the  dead  on  his  long  journey  beyond  the  grave- 
Leaving  my  men  under  my  substitute,  I  went  with  Marcelino 
a  little  way  beyond  the  village  towards  Pachucha,  to  visit  the 
cuevas  or  pits  of  old  quarries,  which  were  subsequently  used  as 
catacombs  ;  they  are  two  miles  and  a  half  west  of  the  Pyramid  of 
the  Moon.    The  first  we  visit  has  a  circular  aperture  of  considerable 


*  Sheets  of  mica    were  used   by  Red    Indians  to  cover  human  bones  when 
falling  into  dust. 


Teotihuacan. 


143 


size,  with  three  narrow  low  galleries  branching  off  in  different 
directions  at  an  angle  of  forty  to  forty-five  degrees.  The  first 
explorers  of  these 
caves  found 
human  remains 
side  by  side  with 
those  of  rumi- 
nants. The  next 
cavern,  of  far 
greater  dimen- 
sions, is  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet 
further  off  We 
enter  one  of  the 
galleries,  and  walk 
for  ten  minutes 
before  we  can  see 
the  end  ;  my  guide 
assures  me  that 
this  gallery  ex- 
tends as  far  as  the 
Pyramid  of  the 
Sun,  three  miles 
beyond  ;  that  the 
whole  country 
around  is  under- 
mined by  these 
cuevas,  the  soil 
of  which  is  con- 
glomerate. 

We  now  come 
to     large     halls, 


i#    ^    ^rf   V    1^:^ 


m 


f    3 


t  r  i" 


n 


GROUND   PLAN   OF   PRINCIPAL   RUINS   OF   TEOTIHUACAN. 

No.  I,  Pyramid  of  the  Moon.  No.  2,  Pyramid  of  the  Sun.  No.  3, 
Citadel.  No.  4,  Toltec  Palace  discovered  at  Teotihuacan. 
No.  5,  Path  of  Death. 


144  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

supported  by  incredibly  small  pillars  ;  the  population  round 
about  use  them  as  ball-rooms  twice  a  year,  and  nothing  can 
give  an  idea  of  the  almost  magic  effect  they  then  present.  In 
this  cueva  the  conglomerate  is  split  up  into  gigantic  isolated 
blocks  of  the  most  fantastic,  weird  shapes,  in  juxtaposition  with 
a  perpendicular  calcareous  formation.  The  next  cavern  we  visit 
has  a  well  and  a  rotunda  in  the  centre  ;  ghastly  stories  are  told 
of  the  brigands  who  formerly  used  this  cueva  as  a  burial-place 
for  their  victims  after  having  plundered  them  ;  wild  suppositions 
which  derive  a  colourinQf  from  the  numerous  human  remains 
to  be  found  everywhere,  which  are,  however,  undoubtedly  the 
bones  of  the  earlier  Indians,  as  the  thickness  of  the  skulls 
sufficiently  indicates. 

From  the  cuevas  we  return  to  the  ruins,  where  I  look 
forward  to  bringing  to  light  a  house,  that  I  may  prove 
Teotihuacan  to  have  been  as  much  a  Toltec  city  as  Tula. 
Whilst  casting  about  where  to  begin  I  noticed  parts  of  walls, 
broken  cement  and  terraces,  north  of  the  river,  when  forthwith 
we  cleared  away  the  rubbish  until  we  reached  the  floor,  following 
the  walls,  corners,  and  openings  of  the  various  apartments,  as 
we  had  done  at  Tula  ;  and  when  three  days  later  the  engineer, 
Mr.  P.  Castro,  joined  us,  ten  rooms,  forming  part  of  the  house, 
had  been  unearthed.  He  was  so  surprised  at  our  success  that, 
stopping  short,  he  exclaimed  :  "  Why,  it  is  our  Tula  palace  over 
acjain  ! " 

And  so  it  was — inner  court,  apartments  on  different  levels, 
everything  as  we  had  found  before,  save  that  here  the  rooms 
were  much  larger  and  most  supported  by  pillars  ;  one  of  these 
chambers  measures  49  feet  on  one  side,  that  is  732  feet  in 
circumference.  The  walls,  nearly  six  feet  seven  inches  thick,  are 
built  of  stone  and  mortar,  incrusted  with  deep  cement,  sloping  up 
about   three  feet  and  terminating  perpendicularly.     The  centre  of 


Teotimuacan. 


145 


the  room  is  occupied  by  six  pillars,  on   which  rose  stone,  brick,  or 
wood  columns  bearing  the  roof. 

This  is  undoubtedly  a  palace,  and  these  are  the  reception 
rooms  ;  the  sleeping  apartments  were  behind  ;  unfortunately 
they  He  under  cultivated  ground  covered  with  Indian  corn, 
so  we  are  not  permitted  to  disturb  them.  In  the  large  room 
we    observed     small    stone    rino^s    fixed     to    the    wall,     and     on 

Ijiner  Apartments. 


rE. — Tlic  ninnbers  s'lmc   ilie  level  of 

each  cj>iij'<u!iiicn!,  la/: ins  o  as  unit.  Great  P. till  oj  Death 

GROUND   PLAN   OF  TOLTEC   PALACE  AT   TEOTIHUACAN. 

each  side  of  the  entrance,  also  fixed  to  the  wall,  two  small 
painted  slabs.  What  had  been  their  use  ?  To  support  lights  at 
night  ?  But  how  was  that  possible  ?  For  even  now  the  only  lights 
the  natives  use  are  ocotes,  pieces  of  resinous  wood,  whilst  the  slabs 
bear  no  traces  of  smoke.  I  had,  it  is  true,  met  in  the  course  ot 
my  excavations  with  terra-cotta  objects  which  might  have  been 
taken  for  candlesticks,  but  to  which  I  had  attached  no  im- 
portance,   when    I    suddenly    recollected    a    passage    in    Sahagun 


146  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

bearing  on  the  subject :  "  The  chandler  who  knows  how  to 
do  his  work  first  bleaches,  cleans  and  melts  the  wax,  and  when 
in  a  liquid  state  he  pours  it  on  a  wick  and  rolls  it  between  two 
slabs  ;  he  sometimes  puts  a  layer  of  black  wax  within  a  white 
layer,"  etc.'"'     My  first  supposition  had  been  right. 

Here  also  the  floors  and  walls  are  coated  with  mortar,  stucco, 
or  cement,  save  that  in  the  dwellings  of  the  rich,  necessarily  few, 
they  are  ornamented  with  figures,  as  principal  subject,  with  a 
border  like  an  Aubusson  carpet.  The  colours  are  not  all  effaced, 
red,  black,  blue,  yellow,  and  white,  are  still  discernible  ;  a  few 
examples  of  these  frescoes  are  to  be  seen  in  the  Trocadero.  I  am 
convinced  that  numerous  treasures  mieht  be  brought  to  lioht  were 
regular  excavations  to  be  made,  but  the  Mexican  Government, 
which  would  have  most  interest  in  such  a  work,  does  not  seem  to 
care  to  undertake  it. 

Leaving  my  men  under  the  direction  of  Colonel  Castro, 
I  return  to  the  "  Path  of  Death,"  composed  of  a  great  number 
of  small  mounds,  Tlateles,  the  tombs  of  great  men.  They  are 
arranged  symmetrically  in  avenues  terminating  at  the  sides  of 
the  great  pyramids,  on  a  plain  of  some  620  feet  to  975  feet  in 
length  ;  fronting  them  are  cemented  steps,  which  must  have  been 
used  as  seats  by  the  spectators  during  funeral  ceremonies  or 
public  festivities.  On  the  left,  amidst  a  mass  of  ruins,  are  broken 
pillars,  said  to  have  belonged  to  a  temple  ;  the  hijge  capitals 
have  some  traces  of  sculpture.  Next  comes  a  quadrangular 
block,  of  which  a  cast  is  to  be  found  in  the  main  gallery  of  the 
Trocadero. 

In  the  course  of  my  excavations  I  had  found  now  and  again 
numerous  pieces  of  worked  obsidian,  precious  stones,  beads,  etc., 
within  the   circuit  of  ants'   nests,    which  these   busy  insects    had 


Sahagun,  "Hist,  dc  las  Cosas  do  Espana." 


Tkotthuacan.  ^        147 


extracted  from  the  ground  in  digging  thejr  galleries  ;  and  now  on 
the  summit  of  the  lesser  pyramid  I  again  came  upon  my  friends, 
and  among  the  things  I  picked  out  of  their  nests  was  a  perfect 
earring  of  obsidian,  very  small  and  as  thin  as  a  sheet  of  paper.  It 
is  not  so  curious  as  it  seems  at  first,  for  we  are  disturbing  a  ground 
formed  by  fifty  generations. 

Glass  does  not  seem  to  have  been  known  to  the  Indians,  for 
although  Tezcatlipoca  was  often  figured  with  a  pair  of  spectacles, 
they  may  only  have  been  figurative  ones  like  those  of  the 
manuscripts,  terra-cotta,  or  bassi-rilievi,  for  there  is  nothing  to  show 
that  they  had  any  idea  of  optics, 

I  now  went  back  to  my  men,  when  to  my  great  delight  I  found 
they  had  unearthed  two  large  slabs  showing  the  entrance  of  two 
sepulchres  ;  they  were  the  first  I  had  yet  found,  and  considering 
them  very  important,  I  immediately  telegraphed  to  Messrs. 
Chavero  and  Berra,  both  of  whom  are  particularly  interested  in 
American  archaeology.  I  expected  to  see  them  come  by  the  very 
next  train,  to  view  not  only  the  tombstones,  but  also  the  palace, 
which  attracted  a  great  number  of  visitors  ;  but  to  my  surprise  one 
sent  word  that  he  had  a  headache,  whilst  the  other  pleaded  a  less 
poetic  ailment.  Ab  uno  discc  omnes;  most  American  writers  speak 
of  ancient  monuments  from  hearsay — from  foreign  travellers  who 
have  visited  them — they  never  having  taken  the  trouble  to  travel 
any  distance  to  see  them. 

One  of  the  slabs  closed  a  vault,  and  the  other  a  cave  with 
perpendicular  walls  ;  we  went  down  the  former  by  a  flight  of  steps 
in  fairly  good  condition,  yet  it  was  a  long  and  rather  dangerous 
affair,  for  we  were  first  obliged  to  demolish  a  wall  facing  us,  in 
which  we  found  a  skull,  before  we  could  get  to  the  room  which 
contained  the  tombs.  The  vases  within  them  are  exactly  like 
those  we  found  in  the  plaza,  except  that  one  is  filled  with  a  fatty 
substance — like  burnt   flesh — mixed  with  some  kind  of  stuff,  the 

L  2 


148  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

woof  of  which  is  still  discernible,  besides  beads  of  serpentine,  bones 
of  dogs  and  squirrels,  knives  of  obsidian  twisted  by  the  action  of  fire. 
We  know  from  Sahafjun  that  the  dead  were  buried  with  their 
clothes  and  their  dogs  to  guide  and  defend  them  in  their  long 
journey  :  "  When  the  dead  were  ushered  into  the  presence  of  the 
king  of  the  nether  world,  Mictlantecutli,  they  offered  him  papers, 
bundles  of  sticks,  pine-wood  and  perfumed  reeds,  together  with 
loosely  twisted  threads  of  white  and  red  cotton,  a  manta,  a  maxtli, 
tunics,  and  shirts.  When  a  woman  died  her  whole  wardrobe  was 
carefully  put  aside,  and  a  portion  burnt  eighty  days  after  ;  this 
operation  was  repeated  on  that  day  twelve  months  for  four  years, 
when  everything  that  had  belonged  to  the  deceased  was  finally 
consumed.  The  dead  then  came  out  of  the  first  circle  to  go 
successively  through  nine  others  encompassed  by  a  large  river. 
On  its  banks  were  a  number  of  dogs  which  helped  their  owners  to 
cross  the  river  ;  whenever  a  ehost  neared  the  bank,  his  doof 
immediately  jumped  into  the  river  and  swam  by  his  side  or  carried 
him  to  the  opposite  bank."'"  It  was  on  this  account  that  Indians 
had  always  several  small  dogs  about  them. 

The  speech  which  was  addressed  to  the  dead  when  laid  out 
previous  to  being  buried  is  so  remarkable  as  to  make  one 
suspect  that  the  author  unconsciously  added  something  of  his 
own  :  "  Son,  your  earthly  hardships  and  sufferings  are  over. 
We  are  but  mortal,  and  it  has  pleased  the  Lord  to  call  you  to 
himself  Wc  had  the  privilege  of  being  intimately  acquainted 
with  you  ;  but  now  you  share  the  abode  of  the  gods,  whither 
we  shall  all  follow,  for  such  is  the  destiny  of  man.  The  place 
is  large  enough  to  receive  every  one  ;  but  although  all  are 
bound  for  the  gloomy  bourn,  none  ever  return."  Then  followed 
the  sp(^(;ch   addressed   to   the   nearest    kinsman   of  the  dead  :   "  O 


*  Sahap;iin,  Appendix  to  lib.  tit.  cnp.  i. 


Tkotiiiuacan. 


149 


son,  cheer  up  ;  eat,  drink,  and  let  not  your  mind  be  cast  down. 
Against  the  divine  fiat  who  can  contend  ?  This  is  not  of  man's 
doing  ;  it  is  the  Lord's.  Take  comfort  to  Ijear  up  against  the 
evils  of  daily  life  ;  for  who  is  able  to  add  a  day,  an  hour,  to 
his  existence  }     Cheer  up,  therefore,  as  becomes  a  man."  " 

But    to    return    to    our    tombstones.       They    are    both     alike, 
being  about  five  feet  high,  three  feet  five  inches  broad,   and  six 


VOTIVE   STONES,  TtOTlHUACAN. 

inches  and  a  half  thick.  The  upper  side  is  smooth,  the  lower 
has  some  carving  in  the  shape  of  a  cross,  four  big  tears  or  drops 
of  water,  and  a  pointed  tongue  in  the  centre,  which,  starting 
from  the  bottom  of  the  slab,  runs  up  in  a  line  parallel  to  the 
drops. 

Knowing    how   general    was    the    worship    of    Tlaloc    among 


Sahagun,  Appendix  to  lib.  hi.  cap.  i. 


150  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

the  Indians,  I  conjectured  this  had  been  a  monument  to  the 
god  of  rain,  to  render  him  propitious  to  the  dead  ;  a  view 
shared  and  enlarged  upon  by  Dr.  Hamy  in  a  paper  read  before 
the  Academie  des  Sciences  in  November,  1882  ;  and  that  I 
should  be  in  accord  with  the  eminent  specialist  on  American 
antiquities  is  a  circumstance  to  make  me  proud.  I  may  add 
that  the  carving  of  this  slab  is  similar  to  that  of  the  cross  on 
the  famous  basso-rilievo  at  Palenque ;  so  that  the  probability 
of  the  two  monuments  having  been  erected  to  the  god  of  rain 
is  much  strengthened  thereby. 

As  our  slabs  are  far  more  archaic  than  those  at  Palenque, 
we  think  we  are  justified  in  calling  them  earlier  in  time — the 
parent  samples  of  the  later  ones.  Nor  is  our  assumption  un- 
supported, for  we  shall  subsequently  find  that  the  cult  of  Tlaloc 
and  Ouetzalcoatl  was  carried  by  the  Toltecs  in  their  distant 
peregrinations.  These  slabs,  therefore,  and  the  pillars  we  found 
in  the  village,  acquire  a  paramount  importance  in  establishing 
the  affiliation  of  Toltec  settlements  in  Tabasco,  Yucatan,  and 
other  places,  furnishing  us  with  further  data  in  regard  to  certain 
monuments  at  Palenque,  the  steles  of  Tikal,  and  the  massive 
monolith  idols  of  Copan. 

I  next  attacked  the  terraced  court  fronting  the  palace  towards 
the  Path  of  Death,  and  the  amount  of  constructions  and  sub- 
structures we  came  upon  is  almost  beyond  belief:  inclined 
stuccoed  walls  crossing  each  other  in  all  directions,  flights  of 
steps  leading  to  terraces  within  the  pyramid,  ornaments,  pottery, 
and  detritus ;  so  much  so  that  the  pyramid  might  not  improperly 
be  called  a  necropolis,  in  which  the  living  had  their  dwellings. 

In  a  word,  our  campaign  at  Teotihuacan  was  as  successful 
as  our  campaign  at  Tula.  We  were  attended  by  the  same  good 
fortune,  and  the  reader  whom  such  things  may  interest  will  find 
a  bas-relief  of  both  Toltec  palaces,  and  of  one  of  the  tombstones, 


Teotiiiuacan. 


T5I 


ill  the  Trocadero.  The  other  I  offered,  as  in  duty  bound,  to 
the  Mexican  Government,  which  allowed  it  to  remain  in  the 
village  for  eighteen  months,  when  Mr.  Cumplido,  the  editor 
of  the  Nineteenth  Century,  had  it  brought  to  Mexico,  and  sold 
it  to  the  Museum  for  £\o. 

From  what  has  been  said  it  will  be  seen  that  the  monuments 
at  Teotihuacan  were  partly  standing  at  the  time  of  the  Concjuest. 

Our  next  investiQ;ations  will  take  us  to  the  Sierra. 


^.  x^:i:>-. 


TOLTEC  SEPULCHRAL  STONE,  TEOTIHUACAN, 


KUINS    OK    TLAI.MANALCU. 


CHAPTER   IX. 


MOUNTAIN    EXPLORATION. 

Travelling  Companions — S.  Lazarus  Station — S.  Anita — Ayotla— Tlalmanalco — 
Tenango  del  Aire — Amecameca — A  Badly  T>ighted  Town — Rateros — Monte- 
Sacro — Volcaneros. 

On  my  first  visit  to  the  country,  three-and-twenty  years  before,  I 
had  gone  to  the  Sierra  for  the  purpose  of  making  a  collection  of 
photographs  of  Popocatepetl  and  the  hills  surrounding  it.  As  my 
men  were  getting  my  camera  ready  I  amused  myself  in  scratching 
the  ground  with  my  stick,  when,  to  my  great  surprise,  I  discovered 
a  bit  of  pottery   and   presently   a  whole  vase  ;    I    next   tried    the 


Mountain   Exi-loration.  153 


ground  with  my  dagger  and  unearthed  more  vases,  side  by  side 
with  human  remains.  At  that  time,  however,  I  was  so  absorbed 
by  my  photography,  so  ill  prepared  for  gauging  the  importance  of 
monuments  and  objects  of  antiquity  regarding  the  country  I  was 
visiting,  that  I  did  not  follow  up  my  discovery  ;  but  now,  deeply 
conscious  of  their  interest,  I  returned  to  Popocatepetl,  in  the  hope 
of  finding  the  place  as  I  had  left  it,  and  to  be  able  to  bring  to  light 
its  hidden  treasures. 

Before  going  any  further  I  wish  to  make  the  reader  acquaintetl 
with  my  travelling  companions.  First  in  rank  and  importance 
stands  Don  Perez  Castro,  a  Colonel  of  the  Artillery,  appointed 
by  the  Mexican  Government  to  watch  and  share  my  labours  and 
discoveries.  Colonel  Castro  has  taken  part  in  all  the  battles  and 
combats  of  his  country  during  the  Franco-Austrian  empire  of 
Maximilian  ;  he  is  used  to  every  climate,  always  ready  to  make  the 
best  of  everything,  blessed,  moreover,  with  a  perfect  temper,  a 
thorough  good  fellow,  a  caballero  of  the  old  school,  with  whom  it 
is  impossible  not  to  get  on.  Next  comes  my  private  secretary, 
young  Albert  Lemaire,  a  promising  topographer,  a  good  draughts- 
man, who  accepts  cheerfully  the  hardships,  privations,  nay,  the 
occasional  perils  of  the  expedition.  Our  servant,  Julian  Diaz, 
completes  the  list.  He  is  a  good  specimen  of  a  Calino,  sweet- 
tempered,  obliging,  devoted,  and  indefatigable,  and  as  simple  and 
guileless  as  a  child ;  he  is  never  seen  without  his  faithful  dog 
d'Artagnan,  a  fine-looking  animal,  far  too  lazy  to  be  any  good 
against  thieves  or  in  the  pursuit  of  game. 

S.  Lazarus  is  the  station  of  a  new  line  connecting  Mexico 
with  Morelos  and  Amecameca  ;  here  travellers  must  beware  of  the 
"  cargadores,"  who  swoop  down  on  the  luggage  like  birds  of  prey, 
and  if  they  are  not  more  than  quick  in  protecting  their  traps  they 
will,  in  all  probability,  never  see  them  again.  Poor  Julian  learnt 
it  to  his  cost,   for  in  spite  of  all  our  vigilance,  our  fighting,  our 


154  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

rushing  madly  after  our  porters  not  to  lose  sight  of  our  things, 
when  we  reached  the  platform  Julian's  trunk  was  gone.  I  was 
indignant,  but  he  took  his  mischance  quite  philosophically,  as 
though  it  did  not  concern  him,  lighting  his  cigar  and  taking 
his  seat  without  a  word  of  reproach  against  his  unscrupulous 
countrymen. 

The  guard  gives  the  signal,  the  whistle  is  heard,  and  we 
steam  out  of  this  squalid  station,  following  the  road  by  which 
Cortez  entered  Mexico.  In  the  time  of  the  Aztecs  it  was 
planted  with  beautiful  trees,  a  glowing  vegetation  and  pleasant 
groves  clad  the  borders  of  the  lake,  over  which  glided  a  thousand 
light  skiffs  and  floating  chinampas ;  but  now  the  waters  which 
penetrated  the  city  everywhere  have  receded  so  far  as  to  be 
hardly  visible,  and  the  bright  towns  and  hamlets,  once  washed 
by  them,  have  been  removed  miles  inland,  leaving  a  barren 
strip  of  land  with  incrustations  of  salt  on  the  surface.  It  is 
refreshing  to  abandon  this  unhealthy,  horrible  swamp  to  skirt 
S.  Anita's  Canal,  with  its  grassy  banks,  great  trees,  pretty 
villas,  and  blooming  gardens  overlooking  the  water.  We  per- 
ceive a  few  Indians  among  the  reeds  of  the  muddy  waters 
casting  their  small  nets  to  get  a  white  fish  to  be  found  here. 
We  pass  Peiion  with  its  sulphureous  springs,  stop  at  Santa 
Marta,  once  the  culminating  point  of  the  road,  and  we  shall 
soon  leave  behind  the  basin  of  the  lake  once  so  animated,  so 
full  of  life,  but  now   mournful  and  desolate  beyond   redemption. 

The  inhabitants,  with  amazing  stupidity,  even  since  my  first 
visit,  have  laid  low  the  forests  of  sombre  pines  and  ilexes  which 
shrouded  the  slopes  of  the  volcanic  hills  occupying  the  valley, 
and  imparting  to  it  so  unique  a  character ;  and  now  torrential 
rains  carry  away  the  soil  no  longer  held  by  roots,  leaving  the 
rocks  bare,  so  that  nothing  grows  excepting  the  prickly  pear 
or  the  funereal  opuntiums. 


Mountain  Exploration. 


155 


It  is  not  very  difficult  to  see  where  this  state  of  things  will 
end.  We  can  approximately  calculate  the  time  when  the  re- 
quirements of  the  railway  will  attack  the  rare  forests  as  yet 
crowning  the  higher  hills,  and  their  summits  be  denuded  also  ! 

After  Ayotla 
the  landscape 
somewhat  im- 
proves. We  begin 
to  see  a  few  gar- 
dens, a  few  olive- 
trees,  immense 
plantations  of  aloe, 
affordingr  at  once 
drink  and  raiment, 
yellow  maize  ready 
to  be  gathered  be- 
fore the  impending 
rains.  We  are 
approaching  the 
mountains  and 
have  passed  Com- 
paiiia  and  Lake 
Chalco  on  our 
right,  and  go 
through  Rio  Frio, 
once  afavourite  sta- 
tion   for    brigands. 

On  my  first  journey  I  fell  a  prey  to  them  with  a  diligence 
full  of  people,  when  like  a  flock  of  sheep  we  all  stood  to 
be  plundered  by  two  wretched-looking  fellows  one  could  have 
brought  down  at  one  blow.  At  that  time,  however,  it  was  deemed 
wise  to  offer  no  resistance,  for  fear  of  unseen  companions  lurking 


SANTA   ANITA   CANAL. 


156  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

close  by.  Now  Popocatepetl  and  Iztaccihuatl,  bearing  to  heaven 
their  snowy  peaks,  become  more  and  more  distinct ;  here  Is  Tematla, 
and  a  few  minutes  more  bring  us  to  Tenango  del  Aire,  "  windy," 
where  violent  winds  generally  prevail.  The  line  here  leaves  the  old 
road  which  used  to  pass  Tlalmanal,  and  for  my  part  I  regret  it,  as 
I  miss  seeing  the  remains  of  a  convent  built  in  the  first  years 
of  the  Conquest,  which  was  never  finished. 

The  ruins  are  composed  of  fragments  of  walls  with  a  portico 
formed  by  five  arches,  supported  by  slender  columns  as  finely 
sculptured  as  a  Chinese  ivory  casket.  Indian  artists  executed 
this  beautiful  carving  after  designs  furnished  by  the  Catholic 
Spaniards.  I  am  told  by  the  guard  that  when  this  line  was  open, 
hundreds  of  vases,  statuettes,  pottery  of  every  shape  and  size  were 
unearthed,  none  of  which  found  their  way  to  the  Museum,  the 
officials  having  shared  the  spoil  among  themselves.  It  is  grievous 
to  think  that  so  many  precious  objects  are  lost  to  science,  when  it 
would  be  so  easy  for  the  Mexican  Government  to  introduce  a 
clause  by  which  the  contractors  bound  themselves  to  give  up  to 
the  authorities  any  antiquities  they  happened  to  bring  to  light. 

It  was  seven  o'clock  when  we  entered  the  station  of  Ameca- 
meca,  having  been  four  hours  in  performing  a  journey  of  some 
sixty-four  miles.  It  was  now  pitch  dark,  so  that  our  luggage  was 
piled  into  the  cart  without  our  examining  it,  and  it  was  not  until 
we  were  in  the  house  which  was  to  take  us  in,  there  being  no 
hotel  in  the  place,  that  I  perceived  both  locks  of  my  portmanteau 
had  been  broken  and  ^20  out  of  ^'60  taken.  I  naturally 
complained  to  the  authorities,  but  as  I  could  not  say  where  the 
theft  had  taken  place  (though  it  must  have  been  accomplished 
either  at  the  station  in  Mexico  or  in  the  train)  I  obtained  no 
redress,  and  I  comforted  myself  with  the  thought  that  it  would 
have  been  much  worse  had  they  taken  the  whole. 

Amecameca  is  situated  at  an  altitude  of  626  feet  above  Mexico, 


Ililll      ':i: 


liiiiii 


'"'lit: 


''    ''Ml'  \\  ' 


I.    > 

1'' 


? ) 


.liliLll      fjl     ,■*    . 


Mountain   Exploration.  jcq 


at  the  foot  of  Monte- S aero,  planted  with  beautiful  trees  ;   the  air 

is  cool  even  in  summer  and  the  climate  good.      This  circumstance 

has   made  it    a  favourite   resort  for    the  rich   Mexicans   eager  to 

escape  from  the  excessive  heat  of  the  plain.      But  even   in  this 

favoured  climate  storms,    rain,   and    winds  prevail  during  several 

months    of  the  year  ;    hence    perpendicular    roofs    have    replaced 

azoteas,    giving    it    the   aspect    of  an   Alpine   village.      No    more 

enchanting  scenery  can  well  be  imagined  :   to  the  south-east,  great 

Popocatepetl  rises  to  the  enormous  height  of  17,852   feet   above 

the  level  of  the  sea;  fronting  it  to  the  east  Iztaccihuatl,    15,208 

feet,  spreading  its  mantle  of  snow  over  its  broad  surface  ;  and  if 

yielding  in  bulk  and  height  to  its  gigantic  neighbour  it  is  far  more 

picturesque,  surrounded  by  a  belt  of  hills,  with  a  thousand  fantastic 

forms,  broken  peaks,  massive  rocks,  and  deejD   ravines,  presenting 

a  variety  and  richness  of  colouring  unsurpassed  anywhere.      In  the 

morning  the  plain  is  covered  with  a  slight  white  mist,  like  a  bridal 

veil,  through  which  show  the  tapering  stalks  of  Indian  corn  and 

the  gloomy  masses  of  trees.      In  this  light  the  lower  hills  are  of  a 

tender    peacock  -  green,    deepening    to    the    darkest    blue    in    the 

barrancas,  whilst   the   crests  are  tinged   with   a  faint   blush  ;    but 

when  storms,  at  this  season  very  frequent,  burst  upon  the  gigantic 

and    broken    surface    of    these    mountains,    when    clouds    sweep 

across  their  slopes  clashing  against  each  other,  and  the  lightning 

illumines  the  whole  sky,  when  the  thunder  is  re-echoed   from   all 

these  peaks,  from  all  these  pinnacles,  to  die  in  the  distant  ravines, 

one  understands  how  a  primitive  race   peopled   Popocatepetl  with 

giants  and  evil  spirits,  whose  agonies  in  their  prison-house  found 

expression  in  these  convulsions  of  nature.      But  if  at  this  season 

we  have  a  succession  of  thunderstorms  and  torrential  rains,  if  the 

sky  is  overcast  at  night  and  white  exhalations  rise  from  the  plain, 

the  mornings  are  bright  and  wonderfully  calm. 

The    Municipality    took    measures    some    time    since  to   have 


i6o 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


Amecameca,  which  numbers  1,500  inhabitants,  hghted  with 
petroleum,  their  finances  precluding  gas ;  but,  alas !  they  had 
counted  without  the  rateros,  who  on  the  very  first  night  spread 
over  the  city,  put  out  simultaneously  all  the  lamps  and  carried 
them  ofi".  But  I  hear  some  one  ask,  what  is  a  ratero  ?  A  ratero 
is  ubiquitous  and  essentially  an  American  institution.  His  strength 
as  a  thief  lies  in  being  a  member  of  a  very  "long  firm."      He  is 


HACIENDA    OF    UOMACOCO. 


always  to  be  found  in  crowds,  whether  in  the  market-place, 
church,  or  theatre ;  he  penetrates  ill-closed  houses,  whence  he 
takes  anything  valuable  ;  he  strips  railway  carriages  of  their 
fixtures,  and  railways  of  their  wooden  rails  — the  largest  beams  are 
not  safe  from  his  grasp  ;  horses  and  cattle  are  frequently  driven 
frr)m  on(;  district  to  Ije  sold  in  another  by  the  ratero.  Rateros 
hardly  c-vcr  miss  a  party  crossing  the  Cordilleras,  and  they  take 
care  to  be  in  sufficient  numbers  to  ensure  victory.  It  was  a  ratero 
who  carried  off  Julian's  box,  and  a  ratero  had  eased  me  of  /'20. 


Mountain  Exploration.  i6i 

The  immediate  attraction  of  Amecameca  is  Monte-Sacro,  a 
volcanic  hill,  fire-rent,  rising  from  the  centre  of  the  town  to  a 
height  of  325  feet.  There  is  a  grotto  which  was  turned  into 
a  hermitage  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest.  The  place  soon  Eicquired 
great  celebrity  for  holiness  on  account  of  miracles  which  were 
performed  thereat  ;  chapels,  churches,  and  a  good  road  with  the 
twelve  stations  of  the  Cross,  were  erected  by  the  piety  and  for  the 
accommodation  of  devotees  who  came  hither  from  all  parts,  and 
who,  not  satisfied  with  visiting  the  Monte-Sacro  during  their 
lifetime,  often  desired  to  be  buried  in  the  cemetery  fronting  the 
church,  so  that  it  is  over-crowded. 

The  tombs  are  covered  with  cement  and  perfectly  flat,  with 
rude  drawings  made  by  the  friends  of  the  dead,  who  scratch 
with  their  hands  and  bare  feet  certain  figures  whilst  the  plaster 
is  soft ;  but  although  I  inquired  of  several  people,  I  could  obtain 
no  satisfactory  answer  regarding  the  origin  of  this  peculiar 
custom.  The  branches  of  the  surrounding  trees,  as  indeed 
those  on  the  road  up  to  the  Cross,  are  hung  with  ex-votos 
of  the  oddest  description  :  small  crosses,  bits  of  thread,  coloured 
stuff,  dead  flowers,  tangled  hair,  reminding  one  of  offerings 
around  Japanese  temples.  The  view  from  the  top  of  the  hill 
is  very  fine  and  extensive,  and  the  ascent  has  been  made 
both  easy  and  pleasant  by  a  winding  road  planted  with  cypress 
trees  to  the  north,  and  to  the  south  side  with  ilexes  of  enormous 
size. 

We  were  detained  here  by  the  weather,  which  was  simply 
abominable,  and  also  by  the  difficulty  of  procuring  saddle- 
horses,  mules  to  carry  our  baggage,  and  men  inured  by  long 
experience  to  live  and   work  in  this   rarefied   atmosphere. 

It  was  not  without  a  feeling  of  deep  satisfaction  that  we 
saw  our  last  mule  and  our  last  man  loaded  ready  to  start. 
Our    two    best    men     are    brothers,    both    of  whom    have    been 

M 


l62 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


employed  in  the  sulphur-mines  of  Popocatepetl,  one  as  fore- 
man for  the  last  eight-and-twenty  years,  and  the  other  even 
longer.  The  five  remaining  Indians  are  also  "  volcaneros," 
accustomed  to  live  at  an  altitude  of  13,000  to  17,550  feet 
above  the   level   of  the   sea. 

At    last    every  man   is  at  his  post,  and  we  begin  slowly  the 
ascent  of  the  mountain. 


VOLCANEKOb   (miners) 


-^^; 


BURIAL-GROUND,  TENExNEPANCO. 


CHAPTER   X. 


TENENEPANCO    AND    NAHUALAC    CEMETERIES. 


The  Rancho  of  Tlamacas — A  Funeral  Station — Great  Excitement — Ascent — Search 
— Tenenepanco  —  Camping  — Tlacualero  —  Excavations  — Bodily  Remains — 
— Toys — A  Beautiful  Cup — A  Well-preserved  Skull— Mispayantia  Grotto — 
Amecameca — A  Tumulus  Explored — Expedition  to  Iztaccihuatl — Nahualac 
— A  Second  Cemetery. 

With  a  good  horse  and  a  comfortable  saddle,  the  ascent  of 
Popocatepetl  is  a  delightful  ride.  The  road  rises  so  rapidly 
that  the  view,  which  was  confined  to  the  charming  valley  of 
Amecameca,  becomes  finer  and  more  extensive  at  every  turn 
of  the   road,   embracing  at  last   the  entire  plateau. 

M    2 


164  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

The  air  is  crisp,  the  sun,  though  hot,  is  bearable,  and  when, 
after  three  hours'  march,  we  reach  the  high  mountain  ridge,  we 
pause  to  admire  in  silence  the  finest  panorama  in  the  world : 
the  two  great  volcanoes  to  our  right  and  left,  the  plain  of 
Puebla  on  our  rear,  whilst  before  us  stretches  the  marvellous 
plain  of  Mexico,  every  detail  of  which  is  distinctly  visible  in 
this  clear  atmosphere. 

We  are  so  lost  in  contemplation  that  the  guide  has  at  last  to 
remind  us  that,  unless  we  resume  our  march,  we  shall  be  late 
for  luncheon,  which  awaits  us  at  Tlamacas  ;  but  when  we  did 
reach  it  we  found  that  the  only  accommodation  to  be  had 
was  a  shed,  open  to  rain,  wind,  and  cold.  There  was  fortunately 
a  table  and  a  chimney,  and  with  our  camp-beds  we  managed 
pretty  well. 

As  soon  as  we  had  seen  to  our  luoj-o-acre  we  sallied  forth  in 
search  of  the  cemetery  under  the  escort  of  the  chief  guide, 
and  began  the  ascent  of  Monte  del  Fraile,  782  feet  high,  over 
a  distance  of  three  miles.  This  may  appear  a  small  matter — 
but  a  short  walk ;  yet  a  climb  performed  at  an  altitude  of 
13,000  feet  on  moving  sand,  every  step  of  which  is  painful, 
is  no  joke :  the  head  aches,  the  pulse  throbs,  every  breath 
drawn  is  a  gasp,  the  throat  is  dry,  every  attempt  to  stoop 
makes  one  dizzy,  rest  becomes  necessary  every  few  minutes ; 
and  on  reaching  the  crest  of  Tenenepanco  rock  we  were 
thoroughly  exhausted. 

My  impatience  to  find  the  cemetery  was  so  great,  that  I 
could  not  stop  long  to  contemplate  the  fine  view  to  be  seen 
here  ;  we  immediately  began  our  search.  But  though  I  seemed 
to  recognise  the  plateau,  it  looked  somewhat  different — strewn 
with  flat  stones  I  had  not  observed  before — consequently  I 
climbed  higher,  followed  by  an  old  Indian  who  had  been  with 
me  in  my  first  expedition,  and  who  opened  the  ground  in  several 


iV'  '.a 


Tenenepanco  and  Naiiualac  Cemeteries.  167 

places.  It  was  found  very  hard,  compact,  gravelly,  without 
any  appearance  of  ever  having  been  disturbed  ;  so  after  many 
fruitless  attempts,  I  returned  to  the  first  place,  when  the  old 
Indian,   who  had  not  breathed  a  word  hitherto,   said  : 

"  Sefior,  this  is  the  place  where  you  found  some  vases  the 
last  time  you  were  here." 

"But  how  do  these  flags  come  here  ? " 
"  Oh,  from  subsequent  excavations." 

"  Then  I  am  sold,  robbed,  done  out  of  my  find,"  I  cried  in 
my  disappointment,  as  though  the  cemetery  were  my  property. 

"But,"  objected  the  old  volcanero  softly,  "only  a  few  loads 
of  detritus  were  taken  away  ;  there  must  be  more  to  come  out." 

Acting  on  advice  which  seemed  so  reasonable,  I  soon  dis- 
covered numerous  tepalcates,  fragments  of  vases,  cups,  and 
various  potteries ;  we  had  lost  so  much  time,  however,  in 
looking  about,  that  we  were  soon  obliged  to  abandon  the 
mountain,  trusting  in  what  the  morrow  would  bring  forth. 

A  few  words  about  our  encampment  may  not  be  out  of  place 
here.  The  men  occupied  an  open  shed,  with  a  huge  chimney 
in  the  centre,  where  twice  a  day  they  prepared  their  own  food, 
consisting  of  a  small  quantity  of  meat  and  the  indispensable 
tortilla,  the  whole  washed  down  with  a  good  drop  of  mezcal. 
They  slept  on  trusses  of  dry  grass  and  mats.  We  were  not 
better  housed  than  the  men,  whilst  our  cookino^  was  a  o^reat 
deal  worse;  if  our  shed" was  not  quite  so  open,  it  was  sufficiently 
so  to  admit  the  bitter  night  cold  ;  the  wind  came  in  at  all  the 
windows  unprotected  by  any  shutters,  through  the  thousand 
cracks  of  the  ill-jointed  enclosure,  searing  our  faces  and  causing 
incessant  sneezing.  Although  whole  trees  were  burnt  in  the 
huge  chimney,  it  made  no  appreciable  difference  in  the  at- 
mosphere of  the  room,  and  as  there  was  no  tunnel  we  were 
nearly  suffocated  by  the  smoke,   which,  hovering  about  us,  only 


1 68  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

escaped  through  the  roof.  At  this  altitude,  with  six  or  seven 
degrees  below  zero  (Centigrade)  at  night,  our  bed  of  gutta- 
percha felt  like  icicles,  and  every  time  I  came  in  direct  contact 
with  it,   I   instantly  aw^oke. 

The  food  was  plentiful,  for  the  Tlacualero,  our  "  errand-man," 
went  twice  a  day  to  Amecameca  to  fetch  what  was  required 
for  the  whole  party ;  and  although  the  distance  was  fifteen 
leagues  over  a  mountain  path,  I  never  knew  him  late.  But  if 
provisions  were  abundant,  Julian's  cooking  was  so  extraordinarily 
bad,  that  the  only  one  who  seemed  to  enjoy  and  thrive  on  it 
was  the  dog  d'Artagnan  ;  to  him  it  was  a  matter  of  indifference 
if  cutlets  and  beefsteaks  were  burnt  to  a  cinder,  if  beans  were 
transformed  into  sticks — nothing  came  amiss.  As  for  us,  not 
wishing  to  starve,  we  were  obliged  at  last  to  do  the  cooking 
ourselves  and  confine  our  Calino  to  "washing  up."  Not  that 
he  was  a  bad  fellow,  far  from  it ;  he  deserved  in  every  respect 
the  excellent  character  I  had  received  with  him  for  honesty, 
but  a  man  may  have  given  satisfaction  as  a  sacristan,  as  no 
doul^t  he  had,  and  yet  be  a  sorry  cook. 

The  chill  nights  were  certainly  trying,  but  they  were  made  up 
to  us  by  the  glorious  mornings;  we  rose  with  the  first  light  of  day; 
the  sun,  still  invisible  to  us,  was  already  greeting  the  summit  of  the 
great  volcano,  from  which  rose  a  light  vapour.  We  watched  the 
snow  changing  from  a  delicate  pink  to  dazzling  white  ;  the  crest  of 
El  Frailc,  as  yet  wrapped  in  nocturnal  mists,  showed  gray  against 
a  transparent  blue  sky,  whilst  its  base,  shrouded  by  a  deep  fringe 
of  funeral  pines,  gradually  emerged  from  their  gloom  at  the  sun's 
magic  touch.  To  the  eist  the  plain  of  Puebla,  and  far  away  on  the 
horizon  the  imposing  cone  of  Orizaba,  whilst  in  the  middle 
distance  the  severe  outline  of  Malinche  seemed  to  divide  the 
sky.  The  city  de  los  Angeles,  with  her  square  massive  build- 
ings,   her    steejjles,    cupolas,    the    towers    of    the    cathedral,    the 


Tenenepanco  and  Nahualac  Cemeteries, 


169 


stately  pyramid  of  Cholula  rose  at  our  feet   bathed  in  a  flood  of 
morning  light. 

The  old  Indian  proved  a  true  prophet ;  my  predecessors  had 
not  removed  everything  ;  trenches  branching  off  in  every  direction 
so  as  to  embrace  the  whole  plateau  were  at  once  made  and  brought 
to  light  wholly  undisturbed  tombs.  The  first  was  that  of  a  woman 
whose  head  I  was  able  to  preserve  intact :  the  bones  of  all  the 
rest  were  unfortunately  reduced  to  a  gelatinous  paste.     The  dead 


VASES   FOUND   AT   TENENEPANCO. 


were  buried  at  a  depth  varying  from  some  two  feet  to  four  feet 
eight  inches  ;  the  bodies  doubled  up,  both  chin  and  arms  resting 
on  their  knees  ;  hands  and  feet  were  gone.  Within  the  tomb,  over 
the  head,  was  a  sebile,  or  hollow  terra-cotta  plate,  two  small  black 
earthen  horns,  besides  several  vases.  The  whole  was  damp  and 
moist,  the  vases  filled  with  earth  and  water,  and  the  utmost  care 
was  required  in  taking  up  such  fragile  objects.  They  soon, 
however,  hardened  by  exposure,  when  they  could  be  easily  and 
safely  cleaned  and  packed.  As  far  as  could  be  judged  from  the 
bones  and  pottery,  one  of  the  tombs  contained  the  bodies  of  a  man 


I70  The  Ancient  Cities  oe  the  New  World. 


and  a  woman.  Another,  probably  that  of  a  chief,  had  no  human 
remains  left,  but  I  found  a  great  variety  of  precious  objects,  made 
of  chalchiJmitl,  a.  hard  green  stone,  which  takes  a  fine  polish,  a 
kind  of  jade  or  serpentine,  much  valued  by  the  Indians  ;  besides 
these  were  numerous  arrows  of  obsidian,  beads  for  necklaces,  some 
of  hard  stone,  some  of  terra-cotta,  and  a  few  small  figures.  A 
singular  circumstance  marked  this  tomb  ;  not  a  single  bead,  not  a 
single  ornament  but  was  broken,  presumably  at  the  time  of  the 
burial,  as  a  token  of  grief  It  is  at  least  the  only  plausible  solution 
which  can  be  given  for  so  many  hard  and  resisting  objects  having 
been  systematically  destroyed. 

Moreover,  by  far  the  largest  proportion  of  these  granite  or 
porphyry  beads,  whether  owing  to  their  great  antiquity  or  their 
having  lain  in  a  very  destructive  soil,  crumbled  away  at  our 
touch.  Broadly  speaking,  the  tombs  which  had  not  been 
disturbed  were  two  to  one  ;  the  dead  had  been  buried  without 
any  regard  to  their  position. 

We  are  not  yet  inured  to  our  life  at  an  altitude  of  13,000  feet, 
and  our  daily  ascensions  are  painful  in  the  extreme  ;  our  faces 
literally  peel  in  this  sharp  wind  and  hot  sun,  whilst  our  hands  are 
frightfully  chapped,  and  almost  paralysed.  It  would  be  difificult  to 
bear  up  long  against  our  hardships  were  it  not  for  -the  stupendous 
result  of  our  excavations :  kitchen  utensils,  every  variety  of  vases 
representing  the  Toltec  god  Tlaloc,  fruit  cups,  jewel  cups,  with 
feet  shaped  like  a  duck's  bill  or  a  boar's  head  ;  chocolate  cups 
with  porpoise-like  handles  ;  beads,  jewels,  a  whole  civilisation 
emerges  from  these  tombs,  and  carries  us  back  to  the  life 
of  this  long-forgotten  people.  Here  we  have  caricatures  of 
ancient  warriors  ;  further  on  a  water-carrier  bearing  his  jars  like 
the  modern  "  aguadores  ; "  next  are  toys  and  tiny  terra-cotta 
chariots,  some  are  broken,  some  still  preserve  their  four  wheels  ; 
they    were,    presumably,    a    fond    mother's    memento    who,    ages 


Tenenepanco  and  Naiiualac  Cemeteries. 


171 


gone  by,  buried  them  with  her  beloved  child.  These  chariots 
are  shaped  like  a  flattened  cayote  (a  kind  of  long-bodied  fox) 
with  its  straight  ears  and  pointed  face,  and  the  wheels  fit  into 
four  terra-cotta  stumps  ;  on  my  renewing  the  wood  axle-tree, 
which  had  been  destroyed  long  since,  the  chariots  began  to  move. 
Many  more  objects  were  brought  to  light  from  these  tombs — 
richly  ornamented 
"  fusaioles,"  marbles, 
necklaces,  baby- 
tables,  which,  like  the 
toy  chariots,  repre- 
sented some  quad- 
ruped— resembling 
Greek  toys.  This 
coincidence  between 
people  so  different 
and  so  far  removed 
from  each  other  is  not 
surprising,  for  ele- 
mentary ideas  gene- 
rally find  a  common 
expression.    It  should 


.y    J 


also  be  observed  that  caricature  of  tecuhtli-knight  (knight  of  the  eagle). 
these    toys,    however 

rude,  do  not  necessarily  mark  a  very  ancient  epoch.  Early 
manifestations  live  on  through  ages  and  are  found  side  by  side 
with  the  highest  civilisations,  and  are  still  to  be  met  among  the 
people  long  after  the  well-to-do  possess  objects  of  art. 

The  9th  of  July  was  one  of  our  best  days.  Out  of  ten  tombs 
five  were  found  intact  and  yielded  sixty  remarkable  pieces,  one  of 
which  is  unique  and  of  peculiar  interest.  It  is  a  three-footed 
terra-cotta  cup  some  six  inches  by  three  by  one  and  a  half  at  the 


172  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


bottom  inside  ;  wonderful  to  relate,  it  emerged  without  a  blot  from 
its  gloomy  abode.  Both  the  inside  and  outside  are  covered  with 
pretty  devices  painted  white,  yellow,  blue,  green,  and  red,  fused 
into  a  harmonious  whole.  The  colours  are  in  relief  and  like 
enamels.  Next,  one  almost  as  beautiful  but  smaller,  and  covered 
with  dirt,  was  found.  These  two  lovely  cups  were  put  out  to  dry 
in  the  sun,  when,  to  my  horror,  I  saw  that  one  was  fast  scaling  off, 
whilst  the  brilliant  colours  of  the  other  were  fading  visibly.  To 
remove  them  into  the  shade  was  the  work  of  an  instant,  but,  alas  ! 
it  did  not  arrest  the  work  of  destruction,  which  continued  at  an 
alarming  pace.  A  photograph  of  the  finest  cup,  as  well  as  the 
colours  of  the  paintings,  was  immediately  obtained,  but  it  only 
gives  a  faint  idea  of  the  beauty  of  this  charming  work  of  art. 

From  these  tombs  were  likewise  unearthed  a  number  of 
diminutive  brass  bells,  which  were  used  both  as  ornaments  and 
currency  ;  besides  large  fat  vases  with  a  hand  painted  red  over  a 
black  ground.  This  was  a  Toltec  memento,  either  symbolic  of 
Hueman  or  of  Ouetzalcoatl,  so  often  seen  on  the  walls  of  Yucatec 
palaces,  and  likewise  on  the  monuments  of  some  North  American 
tribes.  But  our  most  curious  "find"  was  a  perfectly  well- 
preserved  human  brain,  the  skull  of  which  was  gone.  This 
cerebral  mass  had  been  protected  from  the  pressure  of  its 
surroundings  by  a  stout  cup  into  which  it  was  wedged.  No  doubt 
was  possible  :  the  two  lobes,  the  circumvolution  of  the  brain  to  the 
minute  red   lines  of  the  blood-vessels,  all   was  there. 

The  fact  that  a  human  brain  could  have  been  found  in  good 
preservation  when  the  skull  had  disappeared,  was  received  with 
Homeric  laughter;  all  I  can  say  is  that  it  is  so,  that  the  finding  of  it 
was  witnessed  ])y  my  associates;  that  in  every  tomb  where  the  skull 
should  have  been,  was  invariably  observed  a  whitish  substance, 
which  at  first  was  mistaken  for  lime,  but  which  subsequently 
whenever  it   was   met  with,   the   men  instantly  cried  out:   '^ Agiii 


Tenenepanco  and   Naiiualac  Cemeteries. 


/  6 


esid  2U10 — here  is  one  "  (body),  and  near  it  vases  and  fragments 
clearly  indicating  the  presence  of  a  tomb.  These  brains,  however, 
not  having  been  protected  like  the  first,  were  all  flattened  into  a 
white  cake  of  some  five  inches  by  two  in  thickness.  The  only 
explanation  I  can  offer  is  that  at  an  elevation  of  13,000  feet,  close 


BOTTOM   OF   ENAMELLED  CUP   FOUND   IN   THE   BURLVL-GROUND. 


to  the  volcanic  cone  of  Popocatepetl,  in  a  soil  saturated  with 
sulphureous  vapours  (a  film  of  sulphide  always  extended  over  my 
nitrate  of  silver  washes),  the  same  chemical  combinations  which 
destroyed  the  bones,  may  have  acted  as  a  preservative  on 
cerebral  matter.  But  it  will  be  asked,  why  not  have  borne 
away    that    wonderful    brain  ?       I    ought     to     have    done    so,    no 


174  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


doubt,  but  without  alcohol  the  thing  was  impossible ;  besides, 
had  I  done  so,  should  I  have  a  better  chance  of  convincing  people 
at  a  distance  ? 

The    toy    chariots    found    no    better    favour    with    the    public. 
Our    illustrations,    however,    will    settle    once    for   all    this  vexed 
question.      As   must   appear  to   the   most   inexperienced   eye,   the 
character  of  these  toys  is  exceedingly  archaic,   nor  am    I    aware 
that    any   museum    or   private    collection    has    anything   to    show 
at  all  approaching  them.     This  was  conceded,  but  it  was  denied 
that  they  were  chariots  at  all — the  wheels  were  only  "  malacates," 
i.e.    "  fusaioles " !      Numerous    spindles    were    indeed     found    by 
us  in  the  cemetery.      Profuse  collections  may  be  seen  and  com- 
pared   in    every    museum,    when    the    most    ignorant     must    see 
that    these  wheels    are    quite    different  to  "fusaioles"  or  whorls. 
It    will    be    said    that    this    toy   was    but    the    copy   of  a    chariot 
brought     in    by    the    Spaniards ;    but    a   glance    at    the    drawing 
will    show  how   absurd    is    the   assumption,   and  carry  conviction 
to  the  most  incredulous. 

Granted  that  is  so,  what  inference  do  you  draw  from  it  ? 
That  the  Mexicans  had  chariots  ?  Hardly,  since  all  authorities 
are  silent  on  the  subject,  and  when  we  know  that  the  only 
means  of  transportation  was  afforded  by  carriers.  But  if  such 
chariots  were  not  available  in  distant  expeditions  across  rivers, 
over  mountain  paths,  through  immense  forests,  it  was  not  so 
within  the  radius  of  a  city  having  good  roads ;  and  what  is 
there  against  the  possibility  of  a  hand-cart  corresponding  with 
ours  having  been  in  use  ? 

I  am  far  from  affirming  that  it  was  so,  although  certain 
expressions  and  quotations  might  be  adduced  which  would  show 
the  supposition  to  be  not  so  far-fetched  as  it  looks  on  the  face 
of  it.  We  read  in  the  Ramirez  manuscript,  for  instance,  that 
Montezuma    II.    set    out    for   his    Huaxateca    expedition    with    a 


Tenenepanco  and  Naiiualac  Cemeteries. 


175 


numerous  army  and  carruages.^  Why  should  the  Indian  writer 
have  used  an  ambiguous  word  meaning  both  chai^iot  and  trans- 
port, when  the  former  must  ah'eady  have  been  extant  when  he 
wrote — that  is,  after  the  Conquest  ?  Farther,  Padre  Duran 
relates  how  this  same  Montezuma,  wishing  to  erect  a  temalacatl, 
had  a  huge  block  quarried  at  Aculco,  near  Amecameca ;  and 
Plate  XXV.  shows  this  block  raised  by  means  of  a  rude  chariot 
having  clog-wheels,  drawn  by  a  multitude  of  Indians.t  The  text, 
it  is  true,  does  not 
specify  a  chariot ; 
but  if  they  were 
unknown,  how  do 
they  come  In  his 
drawinof?  It  is 
unaccountable,  too, 
that  no  mention 
Is  made  of  the 
stone  having  been 
brought  on  rollers 
or  wheels,  seeing 
that  It  could  not 
have      come      so 

great    a    distance    by    any    other    means.       It    is    altogether    a 
mystery. 

Lastly,  Juarros,  in  describing  the  battle  at  PInar,  fought 
against  Alvarado,  mentions  war- engines,  or  what  would  now 
be  called  ammunition  carts,  moving  on  rodadillos,  which  were 
drawn  by  armed  men  wherever  they  were  required.  These 
carts  were  loaded  with  arrows,  spears,  shields,  stones,  slings, 
etc.,  and    men,  chosen    for  the  service,  distributed  them  as  they 


ijfeijj 


CARTS,  children's  TOYS. 


*  Ramirez  Manuscript,  "Hist.  Mexicana,"  p.  75. 

t  Father  Duran,  "Hist,  de  las  Indias,"  tome  u.  Plate  xxv. 


176  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

were  wanted.*  Does  "  rodadlllo "  mean  here  a  clog-wheel  or  a 
roller?  If  these  carts  carried  arms  to  combatants  in  different 
parts  of  the  field  of  batde,  does  it  not  follow  that  they  moved 
on  wheels,  since  rollers  would  have  made  the  diminutive  "  forts  " 
immovable,  contrary  to  the  end  proposed  ? 

Should,  however,  both  quotations  and  arguments  seem  value- 
less, it  might  be  added  that  the  toy  chariots  were  perhaps  of 
primeval  Toltec  invention,  the  use  of  which  had  been  lost  after 
their  expulsion  from  the  plateaux. 

But  to  return  to  the  cemetery.  Whether  it  be  considered 
Toltec  or  otherwise,  whether  ancient  or  comparatively  modern, 
we  hold  to  its  antiquity,  to  its  being  essentially  Nahua,  dedicated 
to  Tlaloc,  the  god  of  rain  and  plenty,  the  fertiliser  of  the  earth, 
the  Lord  of  Paradise,  the  protector  of  green  harvests.  We  are 
in  his  dominions,  for  he  was  believed  to  reside  where  the  clouds 
gather,  on  the  highest  mountain-tops. 

The  first  plate  shows  the  vases  unearthed  at  Tenenepanco, 
five  of  which  portray  this  god,  with  his  prominent  eyes,  the  drops 
of  water  streaming  down  his  face,  making  up  his  teeth,  his  beard 
or  moustachios  ;  he  holds  in  his  right  hand  a  writhing  serpent, 
thereby  representing  the  fiash  and  the  thunderbolt — his  voice  as 
heard  in  storms.  In  the  Nahualac  Plate  four  vases  also  figure  the 
same  god. 

The  nations  who  succeeded  the  Toltecs  on  the  plateaux 
adopted  this  eminently  Toltec  deity,  who  was  one  of  the  most 
popular  gods  down  to  the  Conquest.  The  later  tribes,  however, 
discarding  the  mild  practices  of  the  Toltecs,  stained  his  cult 
with  human  sacrifices.  We  will  add  a  few  quotations  showing 
how  great  was  the  analogy  between  the  places  consecrated  to 
Tlaloc  and  the  Tenenepanco  cemetery. 


*  Juarros,  "  Hist,  de  Guatemala,"  tome  11.  p.  249,  1809. 


Tenenepanco  and  Naiiualac  Cemeteries. 


177 


Torquemada  calls  him  the  god  of  paradise  and  great  delights  ; 
that  his  statue  on  the  highest  mountain  of  Texcuco  represented 
a  man  seated  on  a  square  slab,  having  at  the  back  a  huge  stone 
jar,  into  which  ?////,  maize,  beans,  and  other  vegetables  were 
placed  by  the  devotees,  and  that  this  offering  was  renewed  every 
year.  Ixdilxochitl  mentions,  inter  alia,  that  five  or  six  young 
children  were  yearly  sacrificed  to  this  deity,  their  hearts  torn  out, 
and  their  bodies  buried ;  and  we  read  in  Leather  Duran  that 
Montezuma  and  the  allied  princes  repaired  on  the  hill  on  which 
a  child  seven  or  eight  years  old  was  sacrificed.  This  festival  was 
celebrated    in    the 


month  of  April, 
when  the  maize 
was  above  the 
ground.  The  next 
quotation  from 
Torquemada  Is  by 
far    the    most     in- 


VASES    OF    BURIAL-GROUND    UNEARTHED   AT    NAHUAI.AC. 


teresting,  for  It  mentions   Popocatepetl   and   the  surrounding  hills 
where  we  are  carrying  on  our  explorations : 

"  Indians  entertained  a  great  respect  for  this  mountain,  whose 
climate  was  mild,  and  the  abundance  of  whose  waters  made  the 
land  around  unusually  fertile,  and  here  children  and  slaves  were 
slain  In  honour  of  Tlaloc.  To  the  south  Is  another  mighty  hill, 
Teoculnani,  '  the  Divine  Singer,'  so  called  by  the  natives  because 
whenever  the  clouds  shroud  its  summit  the  volcano  bursts  forth 
in  flashes  of  lightning  and  claps  of  thunder,  spreading  terror 
among  the  whole  population,  who  hasten  to  the  hill  to  offer  men, 
incense,  paper-crowns,  feathers,  plates,  iirns,  goblets,  cups,  toys, 
and  vases''  (exactly  what  we  have  found).  "Close  by  was  a 
well-constructed  house,  Ayaiichcalli,  'house  of  rest,'  in  which 
stood  an  idol  of  green  stone,  chalchilntitl,  about  the  size  of  a  child 


178  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

eight  years  old.  On  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards  this  idol 
was  carried  away  and  buried  in  the  mountams  by  the  Indians, 
together  with  numerous  objects  of  gold,  silver,  and  precious 
stones."^' 

We  have  often  seen  clouds  collected  around  the  top  of  Teo- 
cuinani  (El  Fraile),  and  many  a  time  have  we  heard  the  dread 
voice  of  the  Divine  Singer ;  if  our  Tenenepanco  cemetery  is  not 
the  one  spoken  of  by  Father  Duran,  it  is  assuredly  its  nearest 
neighbour,  and  we  are  convinced  that  this  site  was  once  sacred 
to  Tlaloc,  consequently  ancient,  and  that  besides  the  victims 
sacrificed,  both  men  and  women  were  buried  here  as  in  consecrated 
ground,  with  their  utensils,  arms,  and  ornaments. 

The  foregoing  quotations  prove,  moreover,  that  the  surrounding 
mountains  contain  several  funeral  stations,  which  might  be 
profitably  explored  ;  Mount  Tlaloc  alone  would  enrich  the  most 
greedy.  As  for  us,  we  are  satisfied  with  having  discovered  two 
and  opened  the  way  to  others ;  and  when  we  add  that  our 
excavations  yielded  three  hundred  and  seventy  pieces,  our  self- 
satisfaction  will  not  appear  out  of  place.  The  greatest  care  was 
taken  in  packing  our  treasure  in  four  large  /macales,  "  cases,"  and 
the  freight  reached  safely  Amecameca  and  Mexico,  where  the 
Government  confiscated  it. 

In  our  two  years'  explorations  the  Mexican  Museum  had 
deducted  a  third  from  the  best  of  our  finds  ;  now  they  illegally 
detained  the  whole,  refusing  to  give  up  any  part  of  it.  Let  future 
explorers  do  their  work  quietly,  offering  nothing  to  the  Republic, 
which  might  adopt,  as  in  our  case,  a  singular  mode  of  testifying  its 
gratitude. 

The  next  day  after  our  return  to  the  village,  we  set  out  for  the 
Mispayantia  grottoes,  accompanied  by  a  guide  and  three  Indians 


Torquemada,  tome  11.  lib.  vi.  cap.  xxiii. 


Tenenepanco  and   Naiiualac  Cemeteries.  179 

provided  with  tools.  These  grottoes  are  situated  in  the  barranca 
known  as  Mispayantla,  at  once  the  most  picturesque  and  the  most 
important  in  the  Mexican  Valley,  extending  from  El  Fraile  to  the 
east  and  west  as  far  as  the  Amecan  Valley.  From  rocks  rising 
perpendicularly  to  some  six  hundred  and  nine  hundred  feet,  the 
eye  travels  clown  into  its  depths,  where  the  course  of  the  river 
is  lost  in  a  glowing  wilderness  of  vegetation.  The  road  was  so 
bad  and  unsafe  that  we  got  off  our  horses  and  walked  up  to  the 
grottoes,  where  a  great  disappointment  awaited  us,  for  they  are 
nothing  but  pent-houses,  produced  by  the  projecting  rock  ;  holes 
and  notches,  moreover,  plainly  testified  that  we  had  been  preceded 
long  since  by  other  seekers.  Broken  skulls  and  bones,  of  no 
interest  whatever,  lay  scattered  about.  We  picked  up,  however, 
saucepan  handles  of  every  size,  red  earthen  vases  striped  with 
black,  a  much  injured  idol  of  Tlaloc,  a  bit  of  an  Indian  flute. 
This  had  been,  no  doubt,  a  funeral  station  completely  rifled. 
We  came  away  with  feelings  the  reverse  of  pleasant. 

We  were  not  more  successful  in  attempting  a  teocalli  in 
the  heart  of  Amecameca,  than  we  had  been  at  Mispayantla ; 
remembering,  however,  that  cemeteries  abounded  in  the 
mountains,  I  flattered  myself  I  should  find  one  towards 
Iztaccihuatl.  "  Tepalcates,"  potteries,  I  had  been  told,  were 
to  be  met  in  various  places,  but  small  had  been  the  result  on 
my  visiting  the  sites  indicated.  From  inquiries  and  the 
promise  of  a  good  reward,  I  got  an  Indian  to  act  as  guide 
to  Iztaccihuatl,  which  he  knows  well,  having  often  been  there 
for  the  same  purpose  as  ourselves ;  a  few  preliminaries  are 
soon  settled,  and  taking  some  half-dozen  men  with  me,  we 
set  out  on  our  mountain  expedition.  The  ascent  is  performed 
with  great  difficulty,  for  we  are  just  in  for  the  rainy  season, 
and  the  path  is  simply  abominable.  Our  horses  slip,  rear,  fall, 
and    we    frequently    risk    breaking   our    necks ;    the    mule,    laden 

N    2 


I  So  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

with  our  instruments  and  luggage,  refuses  to  move  until  he  is 
relieved  of  half  his  burden. 

Leaving  Amecameca,  we  follow  a  very  steep  path  over- 
looking frightful  precipices,  and  reach  the  summit  after  a  forced 
march  of  six  hours.  From  this  point  may  be  seen  the  valley, 
some  3,900  feet  long  by  1,625  to  1,950  feet  broad,  bounded  by 
the  mountain  range  which  to  the  west  of  Mexico  makes  it  im- 
passable. To  the  east  are  the  peaks  of  Iztaccihuatl,  covered 
with  virgin  snow,  650  feet  below  us  ;  on  the  crest  the  barometer 
marks  12,512  feet,  and  12,318  in  the  valley,  that  is  as  near  as 
possible  the  altitude  of  Tlamacas. 

This  narrow  valley  is  so  completely  closed  in  by  perpen- 
dicular rocks,  that  it  would  be  next  to  impossible  to  spy  it  out 
without  a  guide ;  it  is  fringed  half-way  up  by  gloomy  pines, 
but  above  us  the  rock  is  quite  bare.  Stray  cattle  graze 
peaceably  at  the  bottom  of  the  valley,  which  owes  its  name  to 
the  nearest  peak,  "  Nahualac."  The  latter  must  have  been  a  far 
more  important  funeral  station  than  Tenenepanco.  Everything 
favours  this  assumption,  whilst  stone  foundations  make  it 
probable  that  a  temple  or  a  sanctuary  dedicated  to  Tlaloc 
once  stood  here,  similar  to  that  mentioned  by  Father  Duran, 
of  which  no  trace  has  been  found  by  us.  We  descry,  however, 
to  the  north-east  of  the  valley,  an  artificial  pond  195  feet  in 
circumference  ;  in  the  centre  rose  a  monument,  the  foundations 
of  which  are  still  extant ;  and  round  the  pond  are  similar  but 
smaller  monuments,  pedestals,  altars,  or  chapels,  bearing  the 
statue  of  Tlaloc. 

In  a  few  minutes  my  men  unearthed  no  fewer  than  forty 
vases,  several  plates,  goblets,  in  the  same  style  as  those  found 
at  Tenenepanco,  save  that  the  clay  is  coarser  and  the  orna- 
mentation more  archaic.  This  beginning  was  so  promising,  that 
notwithstanding   the    bitter  cold   at    night,  only  half-sheltered    as 


Tenenepanco  and  Naiiualac  Cemeteries.  i8i 

we  were,  my  dreams  were  golden ;  and  the  next  morning,  after 
a  hot  cup  of  coffee  mixed  with  a  good  dose  of  mezcal,  we  were 
eager  to  set  to  work  again,  when  our  "finds"  were  if  anything 
more  abundant,  and  similar  to  those  of  the  previous  day  :  idols, 
cups,  three-footed  goblets,  pottery  with  Tlaloc's  image ;  very 
few  jewels,  however,  and  no  precious  stones,  whilst  the  total 
absence  of  human  remains  seems  to  indicate  great  antiquity  for 
these  remains. 

It  may  be  well  to  mention  that  a  small  cup,  bearing  the 
image  of  Tlaloc  and  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  Tenenepanco 
Plate,  belongs  properly  to  Nahualac.  It  forms  a  pendant  to 
another  cup  also  in  my  possession.  Both  are  quite  unique  in 
their  way,  for  nothing  in  the  Aztec  antiquities  recalls  either  the 
material,  the  shape,  the  ornamentation,  or  the  workmanship.  If 
this  cemetery  were  Aztec,  therefore,  it  must  date  back  to  the 
early  establishment  of  that  tribe  in  the  valley  ;  but  in  all 
probability  it  is  either  Chichemec  or  Toltec,  for  had  it  been 
Aztec,  human  remains  would  have  been  found,  whereas  it  is 
well  known  that  the  Toltecs  offered  only  birds,  feathers,  and 
flowers  to  their  favourite  god,  and  this  leads  us  to  suppose  that 
Nahualac  was  one   among   the   primeval   Toltec   stations. 

Our  four  days'  explorations  produced  nearly  eight  hundred 
pieces  of  all  kinds.  Our  sanguine  hopes  had  been  more  than 
realised,  and  with  jubilant  feelings  we  bade  the  mountain  adieu ; 
but  alas  1  our  treasure,  like  its  predecessor,  went  to  fill  up  the 
shelves  of  the  Mexican  Museum. 

If  the  ascent  had  been  painful,  the  descent  was  even  more 
so.  Leaving  the  Indians  to  follow  with  our  luggage.  Colonel 
Castro  and  I  went  in  advance  ;  but  we  soon  lost  our  way,  and 
rolled  rather  than  walked  down  the  steep,  precipitous  slopes  of 
the  mountain,  whilst  our  horses,  which  we  were  leading,  came 
upon   us  like  avalanches,   and   often    threatened    our  destruction. 


l82 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


We  reached   the  plain  at  last,  and  a  few  minutes   brought  us  to 
Ameca. 

Our  excavations  on  the  high  plateaux  are  over  ;  we  leave  for 
the  warm  region,  to  follow  the  Toltecs  in  their  great  migration 
at  the  beginning  of  the  eleventh  century. 


POND    OF    NAUUALAC. 


QUAY   OF  S.  JUAN  BAUTISTA. 


CHAPTER   XI, 


BELLOTE. 


Return  to  Vera  Cruz — Toltec  Cities — Quotations  regarding  Ancient  Cities — Rio 
Tabasco  at  Frontera — S.  Juan  Bautista — Rio  Gonzales — Canoas — Lagoons — 
Bellote  Islands — Kjoekkenmoedwgs — Temples  at  Bellote — Chronological  and 
Ornamental  Slabs — Las  Dos  Bocas — Cortez — Rio  Seco — Paraiso. 


We  are  once  more  at  Vera  Cruz,  en  route  for  Tabasco,  where 
we  are  received,  as  on  our  first  arrival,  with  the  terrible  Norte, 
blowing  so  hard  that  no  steamer  can  get  away  ;  and  to  do  some- 
thing I  visit  the  Public  Library,  which,  besides  some  interesting 
works,  contains  also  specimens  of  Totonac  antiquities,  and 
a  good  Indian  map  on  calico. 

The  wind  changes,  and  we  are  at  last  able  to  go  on  board 
the  steamer  which  is  to  convey  us  to  the  mouth  of  Rio  Tabasco, 
sometime  known  as  Grijalva,  after  the  Spanish  explorer ;  and  here 
we  leave  our  large  ship  for  the  river  boat.  The  banks  of  this 
river   are  exceedingly   flat   and  uninteresting  ;    some  king-fishers, 


184  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


some  white  and  blue  herons,  now  and   then  a  crocodile,  are  the 
only  things  which  break   the  monotony  of  this  dreary  scene. 

We  stop  at  a  small  unhealthy  village  called  Frontera,  where 
we  have  to  change  again  for  S.  Juan.  The  heat  is  suffocating  ; 
our  berths  so  close  that  we  try  the  tops  of  our  cabins,  but  no 
sooner  are  our  mosquito  curtains  fixed,  and  ourselves,  as  we 
fondly  imagine,  settled  for  the  night,  than  a  shower  of  fiery 
sparks  from  the  engine,  which  is  fed  with  charcoal,  sets  our 
clothes  on  fire  and  obliges  us  to  make  a  hasty  retreat,  the  more 
so  that  the  ship  carries  a  large  cargo  of  petroleum.  Below,  a 
lively  night  awaits  us,  and  when  from  sheer  weariness  we  fall 
asleep  at  last,  we  are  rudely  awakened  by  the  cries  of  all  the 
denizens  of  the  forest. 

A  few  habitations,  a  few  fields  under  cultivation,  some 
rare  palm-trees,  or  a  flock  of  sheep,  warn  us  that  we  are 
getting  near  S.  Juan.  But  all  we  can  see  at  present  from 
our  steamer  is  a  long  line  of  low  houses,  nor  is  our  first 
impression  dispelled  when  we  walk  into  this  oudying,  forlorn- 
looking  town.  Outward  appearance,  however,  is  proverbially 
deceitful  ;  it  is  particularly  so  here,  for  S.  Juan  is  in  reality 
the  great  mart  of  the  State,  and  carries  on  an  extensive  trade 
in  cedar,  mahogany,  and  other  fine  wood.  The  population 
is  simple,  obliging,  civil,  every  house  open  to  us  ;  the  Governor, 
a  riofht  ^ood  fellow,  provides  us  with  letters  for  the  interior, 
and  with  men  as  guides  and  servants. 

We  have,  unfortunately,  just  come  in  for  the  rainy  season  ; 
the  roads  are  turned  into  torrents,  and  so  completely  broken 
that  we  have  to  give  up  going  to  Comala  by  land  and  shall 
have  to  go  by  water.  This  will  necessitate  a  very  long  detour  ; 
on  the  other  hantl  it  will  give  us  the  opportunity  of  visiting 
the  interesting  remains  to  be  found  at  Bellote.  Thus  our 
misfortune   will   not  be   very  great  after  all. 


Bellote. 


1 8s 


This  point  settled,  we  are  soon  ready  to  start  for  Tierra 
Colorada,  a  rancho  some  nine  miles  from  S.  Juan,  on  the  banks 
of  Rio  Gonzales,  where  we  are  to  find  Oat-bottomed  canoas  and 
dogas,  "oarsmen."  These  canoas  are  hollowed  out  of  the  trunk  of 
a  tree,  have  no  keels,  and  are  rowed  down  stream,  when  the 
maximum  speed  is  twelve  leagues  a  day,  and  three  up  stream. 
Close  to  the  landing-place  is  a  wooden  booth,  where  before  going 


CANOA   (boat)   of   S.  JUAN. 


on  board  we  get  about  the  nastiest  cup  of  coffee  I  ever  tasted, 
served  with  pretty  grace  by  a  handsome  Meztiza.  We  notice 
the  cups,  made  of  some  fruit-shell  shaped  on  the  tree  whilst 
growing,  and  I  am  so  pleased  with  their  shape  and  design  that 
I  buy  two  for  my  private  collection. 

Our  canoas,  which  are  of  average  size,  do  not  allow  two  to 
sit  abreast ;  the  awning,  toldo,  which  is  to  shelter  us  both  against 
sun  and  rain,  is  so  low  that  we  have  to  crawl  in  on  all-fours  and 
sit  Turkish  fashion.     This  in  a  few  hours  becomes  very  painful, 


1 86  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

and  our  position  is  greatly  aggravated  by  mosquitoes.  There 
is  not  a  breath  of  wind,  so  that  our  progress  is  but  slow,  whilst 
the  heat  under  cover  is  intolerable  ;  but  whenever  I  venture  out 
I  am  forced  back  either  by  the  scorching  sun  or  pouring  rain, 
and  we  must  needs  comfort  ourselves  as  best  we  can  with  some 
excellent  Tabasco  cigars.  We  lose  nothing,  for  this  region  is 
but  an  assemblage  of  savannas  and  stunted  woods,  which  lie  for 
months  under  water. 

We  soon  arrive  at  Ceiba,  a  rancho,  where  we  land  to  breakfast 
under  a  wide-spreading  tree  by  the  river,  depositing  under  its 
cool  shade  our  provisions  and  our  cramped,  aching  limbs.  Here 
we  are  detained  longer  than  we  anticipated  by  our  men,  who, 
after  refreshing  themselves  at  the  rancho,  coolly  walked  some 
three  miles  further  on  to  see  their  sweethearts.  They  hurry  in 
at  last  looking  rather  sheepish,  and  we  find  on  consulting  our 
map  that  our  next  station  is  twelve  miles  distant,  and  that  we 
shall   not   reach  it  till  late  in   the   evening-.     The  heat  abates  as 

<_> 

the  dusk  gathers  in,  when  we  are  glad  to  leave  our  hateful  toldo 
to  breathe  the  freshenine  breeze. 

W^e  are  now  advancing  amidst  the  islands  which  occupy  the 
mouth  of  the  river,  clad  with  gigantic  mangroves ;  all  around 
is  silent,  and  the  moon,  placid  but  not  cold  in  these  latitudes, 
sheds  her  magic  light  over  the  landscape,  shaping  out  fantastic 
groves,  fairy  castles,  and  long  lines  of  porticoes  in  the  openings 
of  tile  forest.  We  are  so  delighted  with  all  we  see  that  we 
are  quite  surprised,  after  a  run  of  sixteen  hours,  to  find  ourselves 
at  the  rancho  of  Las  Islas,  where  we  spend  what  remains  of  the 
night,  and  early  the  next  morning  start  for  Paraiso. 

Up  to  this  time  we  have  been  going  steadily  north,  but 
now  our  route  bears  to  the  west.  We  enter  the  hiQ^oons  to 
be  found  on  this  coast,  intersected  by  narrow  canals,  and  over- 
shadowed by   deep,   gloomy  paths.     The   murky   water  of  these 


Bellotk. 


187 


canals,  the  silence  of  the  forest,  recall  the  Styx,  or  some  for- 
gotten circle  of  Purgatory  in  which  the  dead  wander  in  endless 
solitudes.  Beautiful  large  butterflies,  speckled  with  black  and 
blue,  come  fluttering  by,  whilst  a  multitude  of  red  hairy  crabs 
glare  at  us  out  of  some  mangrove.  Two  hours'  steady  rowing 
brings  us  to  Bellote  Islands,  when,  stowing  our  boats  on  the  sand, 
we  hail  the  first  man  we  see,  and  imder  his  escort  make  for  the 


RANCIIO    AT    LELLOTE. 


cuyos,  pyramids,  walking  by  the  shore  of  the  island,  the  water 
of  which  is  so  transparent  as  to  enable  us  to  spy  at  the  bottom 
of  the  lagoon  a  quantity  of  oyster-shells  ;  presently  we  come 
upon  a  gigantic  bank  of  them  measuring  several  miles,  by  more 
than  twelve  feet  high,  kjoskkenmmdings ;  the  whole  ground  around 
is  composed  of  these  broken  shells,  over  which  a  magnificent 
vegetation  luxuriates. 

The  pyramids,   which  are  the   object    of  our  visit,   are    three 
in   number,    from    195   to   325   feet  at   the    base,   by   ^il   ^o   43   i'"^ 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


height.  The  temples  which  once  stood  on  the  summit  are  but 
a  mass  of  ruins.  Thanks  to  excavations  made  by  the  owner  of 
the  rancho,  one  side  of  one  of  the  pyramids  has  been  cleared 
of  the  vegetation  and  now  a  good  view  can  be  obtained,  enabling 
us  to  perceive  that  it  is  identical  in  all  respects  with  those  at 
Tula  and  Teotihuacan,  save  that  this  is  much  smaller,  the  baby 
pattern,  so  to  speak,  of  those  we  have  hitherto  visited.  On  the 
terrace  crowning  the  pyramid  a  fragment  of  wall  on  an  incline 
is  still  standing,  covered  with  hard  cement.  This  facing  was 
composed  of  four  layers  of  lime  and  mortar,  each  coating 
representing  figures  and  characters  in  bas-reliefs,  modelled  in 
the  lime  coating.  On  removing  one  of  these  the  next  was 
discovered,  almost  invariably  at  the  cost  of  nearly  the  whole 
bas-relief  We  were  fortunate  in  taking  away  intact  the 
fragment  shown  in  our  plate,  a  head  with  retreating  forehead 
resting  on  the  instep  of  a  foot  which  lies  on  a  cushion.  The 
notable  feature  of  this  profile  is  its  similarity  with  those  on  the 
bassi-rilievi  at  Palenque,  proving  in  my  opinion  the  unity  of 
civilisation  of  the  two  countries,  save  that  priority  of  date  must 
be  awarded  to  Bellote.  Besides  these  reliefs  we  found  a  vast 
quantity  of  broken  arms,  hands,  ex-votos,  pottery,  etc. 

It  should  be  mentioned  that  these  pyramids,  unlike  those  at 
Teotihuacan,  were  built  with  shells  and  mud,  and  that  baked 
bricks  were  only  employed  in  the  partition  walls  and  those  of  the 
temples.  That  such  materials  should  have  been  used  was  natural 
in  a  region  where  even  gravel  is  unknown. 

In  speaking  of  the  Toltec  chronology,  it  was  observed  that 
on  the  new  fire  being  rekindled,  all  house  furniture  was  renewed, 
every  dwelling  and  every  temple  repainted.  Is  it  beyond  the 
bounds  of  possibility  to  imagine  tliat  this  custom  received  here 
its  highest  development,  that  the  walls  of  the  temples  were 
covered     with     hieroglyphic    coatings    commemorating    the    age 


Bellote. 


189 


which     had    just    elapsed,     and     that     each     succeeding    century 

received    a    layer    similarly    inscribed  ?       Were    this    presumption 

substantiated,  a  starting-point  would  be  obtained,  enabling  us  to 

state   that   at   the    Conquest    in    1520,    this    monument  was    four 

Indian    centuries,    or    208    years    old,    plus    the    fraction    of    the 

century  just    begun.      I    am    well    aware  that  this    hypothesis    is 

not  borne  out  by  scientific  facts,  and  that   I   cannot    even    claim 

the    honour  of   being    the    first   in 

starting    it,    for    I    was    forestalled 

by   Stephens,  who   says  :    "In  the 

remotest   corridor    of    the    palace, 

the  wall  was  coated  with  lime,  and 

broken  in  various  places  ;  I  counted 

as  many  as  six  coatings,  every  one 

of  which  bore  traces  of  paintings. 

In  a  corner  were  characters  which 

looked  as    though  they   had    been 

written    with    black    ink.       In    our 

efforts    to    reach    this,    the    whole      |: 

thing   came  down   and  obliged  us 

to  desist."  * 

Granting    our    theory,   the    six 
layers   at  Palenque  would  be  equi- 
valent   to    312    years,   plus    the  fraction    of   the    current  century, 
which  might   bring  it   to   330  years  at  the  Conquest,  and  about 
690  years  old  up  to  the  present  time,  an  antiquity  which  may  be 
reasonably  accorded  to  Palenque,  as  the  sequel  will  show. 

As  may  have  been  noticed,  these  monuments  are  identical 
with  those  observed  by  the  early  Spaniards,  and  so  often 
described   by   their  historians  ;    and   if  it   is   borne   in    mind  that 


TEMPLE   BAS-RELIEF,  BELLOTE. 


*  Stephens,  "  Incidents  of  Travels,"  vol.  n.  p.  316. 


I90  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

when  the  Toltecs  were  driven  from  the  high  plateaux  they 
migrated  south,  and  were  found  as  early  as  1124  established 
at  Goatzacoalco,  Tabasco,  and  Yucatan,  by  the  envoys  of  Xolotl, 
the  conclusion  that  the  monuments  under  notice  belonof  to  this 
tribe  must  force  itself  upon  every  unbiassed  mind. 

We  leave  Bellote  cii  route  for  Paraiso,  following  the  course  of 
Tomo,  Largo,  and  calling  at  Ceiba,  a  small  hamlet  standing  amidst 
a  glorious  landscape.  Here  once  rose  Cintla,  a  dependency  of 
Tabasco,  and  this  is  the  river  which  Grijalva  discovered,  which 
Cortez  navigated,  and  on  the  banks  of  which  he  fought  his  great 
battle,  against  40,000  or  50,000  Indians.  Many  are  the  proofs 
which  can  be  brought  to  confirm  our  opinion  :  this  river  has 
but  one  mouth,  and  therefore  can  at  no  time  have  borne  the 
name  of  Las  Dos  Bocas ;  we  read  that  Cortez  was  obliQ^ed  to 
use  launches  on  account  of  its  shallow  waters,  whereas  vessels 
of  great  tonnage,  drawing  twelve  feet  of  water,  ply  daily  on 
it ;  the  tide,  moreover,  advances  farther  in  at  Frontera  than  is 
reported  by  Diaz.*  Herrera  says  that  Cortez,  whilst  in  this 
region,  took  up  his  position  on  an  islet  opposite  the  village : 
now  there  is  but  one  very  large  island,  and  that  nearly  a  mile 
below  Frontera ;  that  his  soldiers  crossed  the  river  to  reconnoitre, 
but  the  stream  is  so  wide  and  so  deep  at  that  point,  as  to 
preclude  the  possibility  of  any  fording-place ;  that  the  general 
traversed  immense  cocoa-plantations,  yet  none  are  to  be  seen 
about  Frontera,  whereas  on  Rio  Seco,  over  which  we  float 
at  this  present  moment,  it  is  the  principal  cultivation.  Herrera's 
account  consequently  is  applicable  in  every  respect  to  Rio  Seco, 
with  its  two  mouths,  its  impassable  bar,  and  its  fording-places  ; 
here  was  fought  the  great  battle,  not  far  rose  the  Indian 
capital,  the  name  of  which  has  not  come  down  to  us,  but  which 


*  Diaz  del  Castillo,  tome  i.  chaps,  xxxiii.  and  xxxi. 


Bellote.  191 

is  known  as  Comalcalco  at  the  present  day  ;  and  we  are  of  opinion 
that  Ceiba,  or  Zeiba,  is  the  village  where  Cortez,  in  the  name 
of  the  king,  took  possession  of  the  country.'" 

Cogolludo,  in  speaking  of  the  first  skirmishes  of  the  Spaniards 
against  the  cacique  of  Tabasco,  says:  "They  numbered  over 
12,000  entrenched  behind  some  breastworks,  but  we  made  a 
sudden  rush,  forced  them  out  of  their  defences,  obliging  them 
to  fall  back  ;  this  they  did  like  good  soldiers  without  turning 
their  backs,  raining  showers  of  arrows  on  us,  until  they  reached 
the  outward  buildings  of  some  temples,  from  which  they  took 
all  they  could  carry.  The  enemy  being  now  in  full  retreat, 
Cortez  stopped  all  further  pursuit,  and  here,  in  the  name  of 
His  Majesty,  he  took  possession  of  the  country,  drawing  his 
sword  and  making  three  large  cuts  at  a  huge  tree,  which  is 
called  Ceiba  by  the  natives,  and  which  grew  on  the  terrace 
of  the  temple,  exclaiming  that  should  any  one  question  his 
right,  he  was  ready  to  make  it  good  with  his  sword  and 
shield."  t 

It  may  be  objected  that  this  quotation  proves  nothing  at  all, 
that  ceibas  grow  everywhere,  and  that  the  taking  of  possession 
could  be  easily  effected  on  any  spot  of  the  Mexican  soil.  Just  so  ; 
yet  a  remarkable  coincidence  is  this,  that  no  ceibas  grow  about 
the  village  of  that  name,  that  the  one  cut  by  Cortez,  owing  to  the 
rapid  growth  of  such  trees,  must  long  since  have  disappeared,  and 
that  on  my  inquiring  for  "  Ceiba"  at  the  village  supposed  to  be  it, 
no  one  seemed  to  know. 

It  is  a  well-ascertained  fact  that  an  appellation  given  in  honour 
of  a  great  event  to  a  certain  spot  lives  on  when  the  object  which 
gave   rise  to  it   has   perished.      Is  it  so  unreasonable  to  suppose 

*  Herrera,   "  Hist.   General,"  Decade  III.   lib.    vii.   chap.  iii.      Torquemada, 
"  Monarquia  Indiana,"  tome  i.  lib.  iv.  chap.  xi. 
t  Cogolludo,  tome  i.  lib.  i.  chap.  ix. 


192  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

that  the  Spaniards  who  settled  later  at  Ceiba,  a  spot  consecrated 
by  the  taking  of  possession,  on  identifying  Cortez'  tree,  should 
name  the  village  they  erected  after  it  ?  If  I  make  a  running 
comment  on  history,  if  I  discover  points  of  analogy  at  every  step, 
I  do  so  whilst  visiting  carefully  the  very  places  under  notice, 
bearinof  in  mind  historical  accounts.  These  details  are  of  vital 
importance  in  affirming  the  existence  of  Comalcalco  at  the  time  of 
the  Conquest,  as  also  that  Rio  Scco  was  then  a  large  river  whose 
course  was  turned  by  the  Spaniards  to  ruin  the  Indian  city,  which 
rose  on  its  banks. 

Of  the  beauty  of  the  country  between  Ceiba  and  Paraiso 
no  words  of  expression,  no  painter's  brush  could  give  an  adequate 
idea :  noble  avenues  of  cocoa  and  palm-trees  open  out  at  almost 
every  stroke  of  the  oar  ;  lovely  plants  of  tender  green,  with  light 
yellow  clustering  flowers,  float  clown  the  rapid  stream,  forming 
fairy-like  rafts  which  remind  us  of  the  Mexican  chinampas.  My 
admiration  for  this  lovely  scene  around  me,  finds  no  echo  among 
my  travelling  companions,  who  are  either  sleeping  or  differently 
engrossed.  The  longer  I  observe  the  high  banks,  the  bed  both 
wide  and  deep  of  this  stream,  now  reduced  to  a  torrent,  the  more 
firmly  am  I  convinced  that  it  was  at  some  time  a  great  river, 
whose  course  whether  nature  or  man  have  altered  within  a 
comparatively  recent  period,  and  tradition  here  becomes  historical 
truth. 

We  reach  Paraiso  at  last ;  the  name  had  prepared  us  for 
something  better  than  the  wretched  hamlet  where  we  land.  It 
was  destroyed,  it  seems,  in  a  local  affray,  as  the  ruins,  the 
fallen  trunks  of  large  trees  sufficiently  attest.  Outward  ap- 
pearance is  no  sure  index  to  gauge  Paraiso  or  its  "  descalzado " 
inhabitants,  who  are  in  reality  well-to-do.  The  good  man 
who  kindly  offered  to  escort  us  about,  is,  for  this  country,  quite 
wealthy  ;    nor   is   he   a  solitary    instance   of   friendliness,   it   seems 


Bellote.  193 

to  pervade  the  whole  community.  The  place  has  no  hotel  or 
inn  of  any  kind,  but  a  house  is  easily  got  to  serve  our  purpose,  as 
much  food  as  we  want  is  forced  upon  us  by  these  good-natured 
people  ;  and  if  it  is  not  quite  English  hospitality,  it  is  very  near  it. 
The  Parai'sians  are  perfectly  satisfied  with  their  condition  in 
life ;  their  wishes  are  few,  and  such  as  the  fertility  of  the  soil 
will  easily  meet  ;  want  is  unknown,  life  easy,  the  climate 
admits  of  but  the  scantiest  clothing,  and  if  they  have  more 
than  their  share  of  rain,  they  are  troubled  with  fewer  mosquitoes 
than  most  of  their  neighbours.  In  fact,  these  charming  people  are 
fully  convinced  that  all  is  for  the  best  in  this  best  of  worlds, 
and  that  if  Paraiso  is  not  heaven  itself,  it  is  not  far  from  it. 


^■m^ 


TERRA-COTTA   MASK,  FOUND   AT   BELLOTE. 


VIKGIN    FOREST   NEAR   COMALCALCO. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

COMALCALCO. 

Description  of  Comalcalco — Fonda — Manners — Climate — Masks  and  Figures — 
Ruins — El  Blasillo — Old  Palaces  Visited — Bricks  and  Bridges — Cemented 
Roads — Great  Pyramid  and  its  Monuments — Palace  Described — Vases  and 
Jicaras — Tecomates — Towers— Bas-reliefs — Small  Pyramids  and  Temples — 
Reflexions — Disappearance  of  Indian  Populations — Return  to  S.  Juan — Don 
Candido — El  Carmen — A  Rich  Wood-cutter. 


TiiK  road  from  Paraiso  to  Comalcalco  is  no  road  at  all,  a  veritable 
"  Slough  of  Despond,"  in  which  our  horses  sink  to  the  hocks, 
sometimes  to  the  girths,  but  as  the  natives  see  nothing  to  find 
fault  in  it,  there  is  little  hope  of  improvement.  The  road  follows 
the  course  of  Rio  Seco,  ancient  Tabasco  to  our  right,  and  three 
hours'  march  brings  us  to  Comalcalco,  a  little  modern  town 
situated  on  an  island  of  the  river,  some  ninety  miles  north-west 
of  S.   Juan    Bautista,   and   twenty-four,  as   a  bird   flies,   from   the 


COMALCALCO.  1 95 

seaboard.  The  place,  including  the  outskirts,  numbers  some  two 
thousand  inhabitants  ;  the  streets  are  straight,  the  houses  low 
and  built  with  bricks.  The  banks  of  the  lagoons  are  clad  with 
thick  long  grass,  in  which  naked  urchins  and  ducks  innumerable 
seem  to  luxuriate  all  day  long,  alternating  with  plunges  into  the 
water,  puffing  at  cigars  nearly  as  big  as  themselves.  Comalcalco 
is   the  very   Elysium  of  life   for    both    ducks   and   urchins. 

Our  "fonda"  is  not  exactly  luxurious,  but  the  civility  of  the 
people,  and  the  excellent  cooking  of  our  hostess,  a  handsome 
woman  of  five-and-twenty,  combine  to  make  life  bearable.  True, 
our  beds  are  not  water-proof,  for  the  water  gets  in  every  time  it 
rains,  whilst  the  quacking  of  the  ducks  awakes  us  twenty  times 
of  a  night  ;  but  as  this  seems  to  be  the  normal  state  of  things,  as 
nobody  appears  to  mind,  it  behoves  us  not  to  be  over  fastidious 
in  a  country  in  which  things  are  taken  mighty  easy.  Salt, 
owing  to  the  excessively  damp  climate,  is  liquid,  and  served 
in  bottles.  The  terrible  Norte  is  nearly  as  much  felt  here 
as  in  Vera  Cruz ;  it  brings  invariably  persistent  rain,  water- 
spouts, trebunadas,  and  frightful  squalls.  My  camera  has 
created  a  furore  in  this  out-of-the-way  place,  and  we  are 
besieged  all  day  with  people  wanting  their  portraits  taken,  to 
the  delight  of  our  "  tendero "  ;  meanwhile  valuable  time  is 
spent  in  explanations  and  refusals  before  we  can  rid  ourselves 
of  these  simple,  troublesome  people.  No  sooner,  however,  did 
our  mission  become  known,  than  everybody  was  eager  to  come  as 
guides,  and  workmen  were  obtained  with  the  greatest  facility. 

The  local  doctor  speaks  enthusiastically  of  the  ruins  lying 
some  six  miles  north-east  of  this  place,  and  about  a  mile  and 
a  half  from  the  river.  Masks,  pottery,  idols  of  the  description 
found  at  Teotihuacan,  have  been  brought  to  light ;  but  what 
was  deemed  far  more  important  by  the  natives,  an  inexhaustible 
mine   of   baked   bricks  of  every   size,    with    which    the   houses   of 


196  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

the  village  have  been  built,  and  the  main  walk  paved.  When 
these  excavations  first  began,  statues,  stones  of  sacrifice  (indicative 
of  later  times),  columns,  huge  flags,  and  cement  were  unearthed. 
Unfortunately  the  whole  was  destroyed  by  these  ignorant  people. 

The  ruins  consist  in  groups  of  pyramids  of  different  dimen- 
sions, so  extensive  as  to  cover  twenty-four  miles,  and  on  this 
account  are  called  the  "Cordillera"  by  the  natives.  A  country 
gentleman  tells  me  that  he  has  counted  over  three  hundred  of 
these  artificial  mounds  on  his  own  property,  and  that  they  were 
built  with  mud  and  baked  bricks. 

Besides  these  ruins  others  are  to  be  met  at  Blasillo,  situated 
on  the  Toltec  march  of  migration,  answering  the  description 
given  by  Bernal  Diaz  regarding  Tonala.  I  hear  from  a  monta- 
nero,  who  first  discovered  them,  that  an  important  Indian  city 
formerly  existed  there,  whose  monuments,  like  those  of  Comal- 
calco,  consist  of  caryatides,  columns,  and  statues ;  but  in  this 
abominable  weather  it  is  utterly  impossible  to  visit  them.  This 
city  having  the  same  origin,  the  same  environment  with  Comalcalco, 
must  have  the  same  origin  ;  and  Toltec  migration,  Toltec  civilising 
influence  being  admitted  as  well  as  proved,  these  two  cities  would 
be  among  the  first  built  by  them  after  their  great  migration,  for 
the  simple  reason  that  they  stand  nearest  their  point  of  departure, 
as  the  most  distant  would  mark  their  later  settlements ;  and  this 
our  investigations  will  amply  demonstrate. 

We  set  out  for  the  ruins,  following  for  a  time  the  right  bank 
of  the  Rio  Seco  ;  then  a  path  across  fields,  bordered  with  large 
yellow  and  red  flowers.  We  notice  to  our  right  and  left  thick 
layers  of  cement,  the  remains  of  the  old  Indian  road  which 
connected  the  city  with  the  river.  We  cross  rivulets  formerly 
spanned  by  bridges,  of  which  bricks  and  a  corbel  vault  are  still 
visible. 

On  reaching  the  pyramid,    we    leave  our  horses  and  ascend 


COMALCALCO. 


197 


With  some  difficulty  the  terrace  surmounting  it ;  we  wander  about 
m  semi-darkness  because  of  the  rank  vegetation  which  mantles 
over  it.  Our  men  clear  it  of  the  most  obstructive  trees,  to 
facilitate  its  measurement :  the  shape  of  this  pyramid  is  irregular, 
being  975   feet  at  the  base,  by  some  ninety-nine  feet  in  height. 


PLAN   OF   GREAT  PYRAMID  AT  COMALCALCO. 

No.  I,  Tower  partly  standing.     No.  2,  Ruined  Tower.     No.  3,  Palace.     No.  4,  Portion  still 
standing.     Nos.  5  and  6,  Pyramids  indicative  of  Ruins. 


Our    plan    gives    the    various    monuments    standing   on    its   vast 
summit,   measuring  no  less  than  292  feet. 

The  principal  monument  (No.  3)  was  a  great  palace,  the 
fa9ade  of  which  looked  east  and  covered  231  feet,  now  reduced 
to  a   ruinous  mass;    fortunately  a  fragment  of  some  twenty-two 


198 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


feet  (No.  4)  enables  us  to  reconstruct  the  edifice.  Our  first 
drawing  is  a  view  of  the  outside,  showing  the  dilapidated  con- 
dition of  the  wall  and  its  brick  and  mortar  composition  ;  the  next 
a  view  of  the  interior,  with  fragments  of  thinner  walls  which 
divided  the  various  apartments  of  the  palace,  probably  seven  or 
eight  in  number,  of  different  dimensions,  and  having  the  same 
characteristics    as   the  monuments    at   Uxmal    and    Palenque.      It 


BAYS   OF   RUINED   PALACE,  COMALCALCO. 


is  the  governor's  palace  with  its  double  bay  of  rooms,  the  slightly 
concave  vault  of  Palenque  ;  and  if  in  our  section  of  the  palace  a 
greater  obliquity  is  observable,  in  the  frieze  supporting  the  roof, 
than  in  edifices  of  the  same  kind  already  known,  or  to  be  studied 
subsequently,  this  sloping  finds  here  its  proper  place,  and  proves 
the  intelligence  of  the  builder  without  destroying  the  similarity  of 
the  different  monuments.  In  fact,  we  shall  see  the  roof  assuming 
a  steeper  or  less  steep  incline,  according  to  the  climate ;  slightly 
oblique  at  Palenque  where  rain  is  frequent,  it  rises  in  the  Yucatan 


COMALCALCO, 


199 


peninsula,  where  a  dry  climate  prevails,  until  it  forms  a  flat  roof, 
resting  on  perpendicular  walls  ;  whereas  at  Comalcalco  and  on  the 
borders  of  the  Gulf,  where  rain  is  incessant,  architects  increase 
the  slope  of  the  roof  to  facilitate  the  out-flow  of  the  water,  the 
better  to  preserve  their  buildings. 

If  baked  bricks  mixed  with  thick  layers  of  lime  and  mortar 
were  substituted  for  stones,  it  is  because  none  are  to  be  found 
in   that  alluvial  plain.     As  to   the   blocks  necessary  for  the  con- 


SECTION   OF   RUINS   AT   COMALCALCO. 


struction  of  columns,  statues,  altars,  etc.,  they  were  brought  by 
river  from  the  mountains.  But  these  modifications  never  destroy 
the  typical  outline  of  the  Toltec  calli,  to  be  found  in  the  chapter 
on  Tula,  and  all  the  monuments  which  we  shall  meet  with  in 
our  explorations  will  have  the  same  type  and  the  same 
architecture. 

But  to  return.  The  walls  of  the  palace  were  without  any 
ornamentation,  save  a  layer  of  smooth  painted  cement  ;  they 
rose    perpendicularly    nine    feet    to    a    very    projecting    cornice. 


200  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

then  sloping  in  a  line  parallel  to  the  corbel  vault,  they  terminated 
in  a  second  cornice  less  salient  than  the  first,  both  serving  as 
frame  to  a  frieze  richly  decorated,  so  far  at  least  as  could  be 
ascertained  from  the  fragments  strewing  the  ground.  Above 
this,  towards  the  centre  of  the  roof,  rose  a  decorated  wall,  a 
peculiarly  Toltec  device,  which  existed  already  in  the  temples 
of  the  high  plateaux,  and  which  we  shall  observe  in  most 
structures,  whether  temples  or  palaces,  terra-cotta  models  of  which 
are  to  be  found  in  the  Trocadero. 

The  building,  including  the  walls,  measures  some  26  feet, 
the  walls  are  3  feet  9  inches  in  thickness,  the  size  of  the 
apartments  is  about  8  feet,  and  the  depth  of  the  vault  inside 
some  23  feet  (see  Plate).  The  palace  was  brightly  painted,  as 
may  yet  be  seen  in  the  north  corner,  which  is  of  a  deep  red. 
The  miscellaneous  compound  to  be  met  at  Tula  and  Teotihuacan 
is  not  observable  here,  where  obsidian  came  from  a  great  distance 
and  was  accordingly  rare  ;  pottery  was  consequently  replaced  by 
fruit-shells,  which  had  the  advantage  of  being  more  durable, 
cheaper,  and  lighter.  ■  These  shells  are  worked  into  a  variety 
of  shapes  differing  in  size  and  value  :  there  are  the  jicaras, 
small  cups,  pure  and  simple ;  tccomatcs,  large  cups  ;  atotoniles, 
cubiletes,  cocos,  etc.  ;  then  the  jicara-flor,  or  half-shell  cut  cross- 
wise ;  the  most  prized  of  all,  the  jicara-boton,  half  upper  shell  ; 
the  jicara-barba,  or  shell  cut  lengthwise.  All  these  shells  are 
given  elegant  shapes  whilst  growing  on  the  tree,  and  when  dry 
are  ornamented  with  pretty  devices  either  sunk  or  in  relief.  A 
calabash  having  a  very  large  shell  is  also  fashioned  into  a  vase 
called  atecomate  by  the  Indians,  and  painted  with  fast  colours  of 
which  the  natives  alone  seem  to  have  the  secret. 

But  if  few  fragments  were  found  in  comparison  with  those 
unearthed  on  the  high  plateaux,  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  pick 
up  two  bricks  covered  with  curious  sunk  designs,  most  rare,  for 


COMALCALCO.  20 


they  were  the  only  two  specimens  I  could  find  of  the  kind.  A 
concentric  drawing  covers  the  first,  whilst  the  second  bears  the 
fijll  likeness  of  a  warrior,  with  feathers  about  his  head — it  is  a 
rude  drawing  which  was  done  on  the  soft  clay  before  it  was 
baked.      Both  bricks  are  in  the  Trocadero. 

Some  35  feet  to  the  south-east  of  the  palace,  on  a  cemented 
platform  over  26  feet  broad  by  38  feet  long,  is  a  tower  (No.  i 
in  our  plan)  which  is  supported  and  bound  by  the  roots  of  large 
trees  surrounding  it.  It  is  oblong  in  shape,  most  picturesque, 
and,  save  the  base,  similar  to  that  at  Palenque.  This  tower  has 
three  storeys,  of  which  two  are  still  standing,  and  it  may  be 
assumed  from  what  remains  that  the  second  storey  was  divided 
into  four  compartments  or  small  rooms,  the  dimensions  of  which 
are  the  following :  two  inner  rooms,  of  5  feet  7  inches  on  one 
side,  correspond  to  other  two,  and  form  a  kind  of  outward  passage, 
having  three  openings,  which  are  separated  by  two  pillars  of 
2  feet  on  one  side.  The  first  storey  underneath  reproduced 
probably  the  same  distribution.  We  penetrated  in  the  only 
accessible  room,  measuring  some  8  feet  by  5  feet  8  inches. 

The  ornamentation  of  this  tower  must  have  been  gigantic  ; 
the  fragment  which  was  found  among  a  heap  of  rubbish,  and 
which  we  reproduce,  is  no  less  than  6  feet.  The  figures  or 
characters  seen  on  the  wall,  and  which  recall  Arabic  inscriptions, 
are  over  3  feet  high,  and  in  strong  relief.  This  was  obtained 
by  applications  of  freshly-made  plaster — a  process  belonging  to 
the  first  epoch,  and  which  we  shall  meet  at  Palenque,  Tikal, 
and  particularly  Ake  and  Izamal  in  the  Yucatan  peninsula. 

Tower  No.  2,  some  32  feet  to  the  south-east  of  the  palace, 
is  a  ruinous  mass,  but  must  have  been  far  more  important 
than  the  first.  Nothing  remains  save  fragments  of  walls,  so 
shapeless  as  to  make  it  difficult  to  draw  an  approximate  plan 
of    the    building.       To    the    north,    however,    a    flight    of    steps 


204 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


In  fair  preservation  allows  us  to  reconstruct  the  first  storey.  The 
four  sides  were  probably  similar,  having  doors  opening  on  the 
stairs  by  which  the  terrace  was  reached,  giving  access  to  four 
rooms,  now  underground,  of  about  8  feet  by  6  feet  8  inches.  Our 
drawing  eives  the  stairs  and  the  entrance  to  one  of  the  rooms. 
In  this  tower  the  ornamentation  must  have  been  as  peculiar  as  that 
of  No.  I,  as  shown  by  an  enormous  unbroken  fragment  of  wall 
lying  on  the  ground,  representing  the  full-size  figure  of  a  man, 
whose  fine  proportions  are  very  remarkable.     The  upper  portion 


ORNAMENTATION    OF   SOUTH-EAST  TOWER,  COMALCALCO. 


of  the  body,  the  fore-arm,  and  part  of  the  leg  are  wanting  ;  of 
the  clothing  nothing  remains  save  the  girdle  and  a  bit  on  the 
thigh.  The  statue  had  presumably  no  other  covering  but  the 
maxtli,  as  is  the  case  at  Palenque  in  the  decoration  of  the  inner 
wing  of  the  palace. 

This  tower  (No.  2),  with  its  flight  of  steps  and  its  platform 
on  which  rose  the  body  of  the  edifice,  answers  the  description 
of  similar  monuments  at  Cozumel  and  along  the  seaboard  given 
by  Oviedo  and  Grijalva's  chaplain  ;  and  both  towers  and  palaces, 
as   also   the  temples  we  shall  visit   later,  must  have  gleamed  on 


COMALCALCO. 


205 


the  astonished  gaze  of  the  Spaniards,  as  did  those  of  the  maritime 
cities  in  Yucatan.  We  know  that  the  first  were  inhabited  at  the 
time  of  the  Conquest ;  have  we  not  the  right  to  affirm  as  much 
for   Comalcalco?     And   if  Comalcalco  was   inhabited,    what   shall 


REMAINS  OF   TOWER   NO.  2,  AND   ENTRANCE  OF  SUBTERRANEOUS   HALL. 


be  said  of  Palenque,  where  we  shall   find  a  far  greater  number 
of  buildings  in  better  preservation  ? 

It  seems  to  us  a  setded  question.  Why  should  monuments 
constructed  in  the  same  way,  in  the  same  country,  amidst  the 
same  vegetation,   be   in  ruins  when    others  are  pardy  standing? 


2o6  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


Does  this  prove  that  they  are  of  more  recent  date  ?  The  same 
causes  acted  on  all.  Everything  points  to  their  similarity,  to 
their  belonging  to  the  same  epoch,  to  their  being  the  work  of 
the  same  hand  ;  and  if  the  palaces  and  temples  at  Comalcalco 
were  extant  and  inhabited  at  the  Conquest  (and  everything  seems 
to  prove  it),  the  temples  and  palaces  at  Palenque  must  have 
been  in  the  same  condition. 

But  the  palace  and  the  two  towers  were  not  the  only  monu- 
ments on  the  terrace  of  the  pyramid.  No.  5  and  No.  6  indicate 
the  site  of  other  buildings  now  completely  ruined,  whilst  the 
sides  were  occupied  by  small  chapels,  traces  of  which  are  still 
discernible.  The  pyramid  was  In  itself  a  small  village,  or  rather 
an  immense  lordly  mansion,  having  a  palace,  temples,  houses, 
and  huts  for  priests  and  servants.  Facing  this  pyramid,  to  the 
north,  hidden  by  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  a  virgin  forest  (re- 
produced in  our  drawing),  are  three  other  pyramids,  of  which 
two  rise  to  the  height  of  some  22  to  26  feet,  and  the  third  from 
39  to  45  feet.  All  were  crowned  by  temples,  the  walls  of  which 
are  still  standing.  The  layers  of  demolished  cement  leave  un- 
covered the  body  of  the  wall,  in  which  I  notice  bricks  ranging 
from  6  in.  by  9  by  i  in  thickness,  and  from  about  i  ft.  4  in.  by  1 1 
by  I  in.  thick,  and  i  ft.  11  in.  by  i  ft.  8  in.  by  i  ft.  2  in.  thick. 
The  largest  were  used  for  the  corners.  Hundreds  of  other 
pyramids,  every  one  occupied  by  palaces,  stretch  as  far  as  the 
seaboard,  buried  in  the  depths  of  the  forest,  presenting  innumer- 
able monuments  to  be  brought  to  light,  for  which  years,  numerous 
workmen,  an  Iron  constitution,  are  required  for  the  future 
explorers.     I  have  shown  the  way — let  others  follow. 

The  stupendous  ruins,  of  which  we  have  had  but  a  glimpse, 
imply  an  immense  amount  of  labour,  and,  as  a  corollary,  a  dense 
population.  It  is  quite  clear  that  the  present  Tabasco,  with  a 
population  of   100,000  inhabitants,  could   not  produce  monuments 


COMALCALCO.  20: 


SO  imposing  as  those  at  Comalcalco,  and  this  is  one  of  the  chief 
objections  brought  against  the  recent  date  we  ascribe  to  these 
buildings.  But  then  the  question  arises,  who  built  them  ages 
before  the  Conquest,  and  what  became  of  the  numerous  population 
which  such  monuments  presuppose  ?  The  genius  of  the  Toltecs 
which  we  have  studied,  the  quotations  of  various  authors  relating 
to  their  southward  migration,  point  to  them  as  the  sole  and  true 
creators  of  these  buildings  which  we  have  even  now  visited,  as 
also  those  we  shall  subsequently  explore.  They  found — facts  attest 
it — a  numerous  population,  which  they  civilised,  and  which  under 
their  peaceful  organisation  rapidly  increased.  They  had,  at  the 
very  outset  of  their  establishment,  the  cheapest,  easiest  labour 
ever  known  in  these  hardy,  sober,  submissive  people,  who,  as 
we  noticed  before,  could  live  on  two  tortillas  a  day,  drink  nothing 
but  water,  carry  enormous  loads,  or  work  all  day  without  showing 
fatigue. 

If,  then,  due  regard  be  had  to  their  numbers,  their  endurance, 
and  their  frugal  habits,  if  it  be  remembered  that  New  Mexico 
was  built  in  no  time  by  Cortez,  the  whole  city  of  Tula  recon- 
structed in  six  years,  most  likely  by  statute-labour  when  great 
multitudes  were  pressed  into  service,  directed  by  foremen  who 
gave  the  final  polishing  touch  to  the  work,  the  number  and 
the  bulk  of  the  monuments  they  have  left  will  not  surprise. 
That  such  work  could  be  achieved  in  a  very  short  time  is  shown 
at  Teotihuacan,  where  the  pyramids  are  but  an  assemblage  of 
mud  and  rude  stones  kept  together  by  walls  faced  with  coatings 
of  polished  cement. 

Furthermore,  it  is  an  accepted  fact  that  a  high  state  of 
civilisation  can  only  be  developed  in  temperate  regions ;  in 
torrid  zones  the  heat,  an  almost  spontaneous  growth,  the  few 
wants  of  man,  keep  him  idle  and  unfit  him  for  work,  and  this 
consideration  would,  in  the  absence  of  any  other  proof,  still  point 


2o8  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

to  the  Toltecs  as  the  authors  of  the  degree  of  civilisation 
observable  in  these  regions.  As  an  instance  of  the  truth  of 
our  argument  look  at  India,  where  a  foreign  race  introduced 
and  implanted  a  ready-made  civilisation  in  the  invaded  country, 
using  the  conquered  race  for  the  construction  of  its  buildings. 
This  theory  receives  still  greater  weight  when  we  remember 
how  easily  a  people  which  has  received  its  civilisation  through 
another,  falls  back  into  its  original  state  of  barbarism  as  soon 
as  left  to  itself;   India,  Cambodia,  Java,  are  striking  examples. 

But  it  will  be  asked,  What  has  become  of  the  dense  population 
you  speak  about  ?  Where  are  the  millions  of  men  who  peopled 
these  regions  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest  ?  The  causes  which 
contributed  to  their  disappearance  are  not  far  to  seek.  First  and 
foremost,  the  Spanish  invasion  and  the  consequent  destruction  of 
the  Mexican  empire,  which  so  deeply  disturbed  the  organisation 
of  all  these  peoples  as  to  be  felt  in  the  most  distant  provinces  ; 
it  was  a  commotion  followed  by  a  profound  discouragement  and 
apathy,  which  told  directly  and  radically  on  the  fecundity  of  the 
race.  Add  to  this  the  intense  horror  felt  for  the  conquerors — a 
horror  so  complete  as  to  cause  the  natives  to  abandon  the  places 
occupied  by  the  hated  foreigners — a  stupor  so  great  as  to  have 
persisted  to  the  present  day.  Even  now  Indian  villages  are 
abandoned  at  the  appearance  of  a  Spaniard,  and  again  occupied 
when  he  leaves,  as  was  the  case  at  Tayasal  when  taken 
by  the  Spanish  general  Martin  Ursua.  So  much  for  moral 
causes. 

As  to  physical  causes,  historians  will  tell  us  they  were  due  to 
the  unheard-of  cruelty  of  the  Spaniards — a  cruelty  all  the  more 
inconceivable  that  Mendieta  ascribes  to  the  natives  a  mild,  simple, 
submissive,  patient  disposition,  in  fact  all  the  Christian  virtues 
so  conspicuously  absent  from  their  hard  taskmasters,  who  were 
guilty  towards  the  poor  Indians  of  daily  savage  acts  which  dis- 


COMALCALCO.  209 

honour  humanity,   tearing  them   from  their  families  and   sending 
them  to  work  the  mines  in  the  distant  mountains,  etc.* 

Then  there  were  epidemics  which  swept  away  vast  numbers 
of  Indians:  ist,  small-pox  in  1521,  called  by  the  natives  Jmey- 
zahuatl,  "great  leprosy" — half  the  population  succumbed  under 
it;  2nd,  measles  {sarampiou),  in  1531,  tepiton-zaJutatl,  small 
leprosy;  3rd,  syphilis;  4th,  bloody-llux  in  1545,  when  in  Tlascala 
and  Tula  250.000  Indians  perished;  lastly,  the  various  epidemics 
of  1564,  1576,  1588,  1595,  which  carried  off  over  3,000,000 
natives.  The  same  epidemics  were  felt  witJi  greater  severity  in 
Tabasco  and  Yucatan. t  Herrera  gives  likewise  measles,  small- 
pox, bloody-flux,  fever,  dysentery,  as  the  main  causes  of  the 
disappearance  of  the  aborigines ;  \  as  does  Motolinia,  who 
mentions  besides  the  great  famine  consequent  on  the  taking  of 
Mexico;  "  encomiendas,"  and  especially  the  heavy  fiscal  burdens 
imposed  on  the  poor  Indians  by  the  Spaniards,  burdens  which 
had  to  be  paid  under  penalty  of  being  tortured  to  death. §  Other 
authorities  might  be  adduced  to  show  that  the  disappearance  of 
the  Indians,  if  unnatural,  is  to  be  explained,  it  being  clear  that 
the  great  cities,  so  thickly  populated  on  the  arrival  of  the 
Spaniards,  were  almost  entirely  abandoned,  whilst  the  temples 
and  palaces,  left  to  the  mercy  of  the  elements  and  the  ruthless 
efforts  of  man,  were  quickly  destroyed.  If  we  could  wonder, 
it   is    that   under    such  circumstances  they  resisted  so  long. 

As  structures,  American  monuments  cannot  be  compared  with 
those  at  Cambodia,  which  belong  to  nearly  the  same  period,  the 
twelfth  century,  and  which,  notwithstanding  their  greater  and  more 
resisting  proportions,  are  found  in  the  same  dilapidated  condition 


*  Mendieta,  "  Hist.  Ecclesiastica  Indiana,"  lib.  ni.  cap.  xxi. 
t  Ibid. 

X  Herrera,  "Hist.  Gen,"  Decade  IH.  lib.  vn.  cap.  iii. 
§  Motolinia,  "  Icazbalcela,"  treatise  i.  chap.  i. 

p 


2IO 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


But  we  must  think  of  returning  to  S.  Juan  ;  we  take  leave 
of  our  Comalcalcan  friends,  leaving  our  "  bogas,"  boatmen,  to  follow 
with  our  traps  by  water,  and  meet  us  at  S.  Juan,  whilst  we  start 
on  horseback  by  a  shorter  route,  skirting  Rio  Seco  on  our  right, 
with  its  islands  clad  with  a  glowing  vegetation.  On  the  opposite 
side  fields  of  yellow  maize,  sugar,  coffee,  and  cocoa,  indicate 
the  presence  of  ranches  and  haciendas.  We  get  glimpses  of 
the  red,  yellow,  and  green  madrina-berries  peeping  out  of 
glistening  foliage,  and  towards  four  o'clock  we  knock  at  a 
large  hacienda,  the  property  of  Don  Candido  Verao,  an  amateur 
antiquarian,  glad  of  an  opportunity  of  showing  his  little  collection. 
From  him  we  learn  that  tumuli  or  basements  of  Indian  chapels 
abound  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  that  many  small  figures 
are  found,  showing  the  country  to  have  once  been  densely 
populated.  Here  we  spend  a  charming  evening,  and  on  the 
morrow  we  start  for  El  Carmen,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
Tabasco,  belonging  to  a  rich  mahogany  contractor,  by  name 
Don  Policarpio  Valenzuela.  Thanks  to  his  civility,  we  were 
able   to    procure   canoes  and   be    at    S.    Juan    Bautista    the    next 


day. 


HAS-kEl.IEK   OK    VVESI'   TOWER,    COMALCAl.CO. 


S.   DOMTNGO    DEL    PALENQUE. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 


LAS    PLAYAS    AND    PALENQUE. 

From  S.  Juan  to  Jonuta — S.  Carlos — Indians  and  Alligators— Las  Playas  and 
Catasaja — Stone  Cross — Rancho  at  Pulente — Palenque — The  Two  Slabs  in  the 
Temple  of  the  Cross  —First  Engravings — Acala  and  Palenque  from  Cortez  — 
Letter  to  the  King — Palenque  and  Ocosingo  mentioned  by  Juarros — Explora- 
tions—The Palace — Facade  and  Pyramids— Ornamentation  on  the  Eastern 
Fagade — An  Old  Relief  Brought  to  Light — Palenque  Artists  and  their  Mode 
of  Working — Medallions  and  Inner  Passage — Reliefs  in  the  Main  Court — 
Apartments  and  Decorations — Inner  Wing  and  Restoration — Western  Facade 
— Palace  Tower. 

The  land  route  from  S.  Juan  to  Palenque  Is  some  thirty  or 
thirty-five  leagues  ;  but  we  were  obliged  to  go  by  water,  which 
takes  about  a  week,  on  account  of  our  heavy  luggage,  consisting 
of  seventy  packages  I  Seventy  packages  may  seem  dispro- 
portionately large  ;   but   it   should   be   recollected  that   we  had   to 


212  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the   New  World. 

take  impressions,  photographs,  plans,  and  last,  not  least,  provide 
for  two  months'  living  amidst  ruins.  A  small  steamer  was 
secured,  which  was  to  convey  us  as  far  as  Jonuta,  where  we 
should  leave  it  for  canoes. 

jonuta  was  once  a  populous  centre,  as  the  pyramids  which 
occupy  part  of  the  village  site  amply  testify.  Here  antiquities 
of  all  kinds  have  been  unearthed,  and  an  enthusiastic  archaeologist, 
Mr.  Nattes,  possesses  a  fine  collection,  which  he  was  kind  enough 
to  show  me.  In  it  I  found  many  objects  very  like,  sometimes 
identical  with,  those  on  the  plateaux.  Mr.  Nattes  is  of  opinion 
that  the  Toltecs  occupied  the  country  throughout,  and  that  all 
the  monuments  we  see  were  left  by  them.  I  need  not  say 
that  I  am  delighted  to  find  my  theory  shared  by  so  distinguished 
a  person. 

On  the  20th  December  we  at  last  take  possession  of  our 
canoes.  We  row  up  the  Usumacinta,  and  the  next  evening  are 
at  Potrerillo  —  a  miserable  rancho,  where  the  only  accommodation 
is  a  low,  filthy  hut,  our  evening  meal  a  monkey — rather  a  pleasant 
change  after  our  salt  provisions. 

After  Potrerillo  we  scud  for  some  hours  along  El  Chico ; 
then  by  canal,  "  rumpido,"  as  far  as  Catasaja,  leaving  on  our 
right  S.  Carlos  lagoons,  inhabited  by  Indians  who  live  pardy 
on  crocodiles  and  alligators — a  diet  which  seems  to  agree 
with  them,  for  they  are  accounted  the  hardiest  men  in  the 
State. 

I  had  visited  these  parts  in  my  first  expedition,  when  I 
noticed  live  tailless  crocodiles  in  most  huts  I  went  into,  lying 
on  their  backs,  their  claws  and  jaws  nailed  to  the  ground 

"The  tail  is  cut  off,"  said  mine  host,  'Test  in  moving  it  they 
should  break  the  legs  of  the  person  near." 

"  But  how  do  you  capture  these  horrible  creatures  ?  " 

"In  two  ways  :  with  a  stout  hook,  or  with  the  hand." 


Las  Playas  and   Palenque.  213 

"  Here,"  I  said,  "  is  a  piastra  for  the  man  who  will  procure  me 
such  a  sio;ht." 

Mine  host  looked  round,  called  to  a  young  Indian  who  was 
outside,  and  informed  him  of  my  wish. 

"  All  right,  Senor,  nothing  easier ;  come  in  a  boat  to  the 
stream  on  the  other  side  of  the  village." 

In  a  few  minutes  we  were  at  the  place  of  rendezvous,  where 
we  found  the  Indian  ready  awaiting  us,  a  dagger  in  his  hand, 
cautioning  us  to  follow  without  making  a  noise,  as  he  walked 
along  the  high  grass  which  grew  on  the  banks.  Suddenly  two 
alligators  plunged  into  the  water,  and  Cyrilo  was  after  them 
almost  at  the  same  time. 

After  a  few  minutes,  which  seemed  hours,  we  spied  the  tail 
of  the  monster  violently  beating  the  surface  of  the  water,  then 
the  whole  body  emerged  with  Cyrilo  adhering  to  the  alligator's 
belly,  then  both  disappeared  again,  leaving  behind  a  long  bloody 
streak. 

"Well  done,  Cyrilo,  well  done  !  "  cried  Don  Juan. 

Yet  all  that  could  be  seen  was  the  commotion  of  the  water 
where  the  struggle  was  going  on  ;  a  few  minutes  more  and  Cyrilo 
came  up,  this  time  alone,  breathing  hard,  covered  with  mud,  and 
swimming  towards  us.  I  stretched  out  my  hand  to  help  him  m, 
but  he  leaped  into  the  boat  without  assistance  and  sat  down  quite 
still  for  one  minute. 

"  Este  can  7ne  corto  el  dedo — this  dog  broke  my  finger,'  he  said, 
holding  up  his  hand,  of  which  the  first  joint  of  the  forefinger  was 
hanging  down.  '' Pero  me  lo  pago — but  I  paid  him  out,  and  I 
reckon  we'll  soon  see  his  ugly  mug.  But  if  not  I'll  be  after  him 
again." 

Don  Juan  winked  at  me.  The  man  was  preparing  to  plunge 
once  more  into  the  murky  water  when  Don  Juan  exclaimed  : 

"  There  he  is  belly  upmost,  his  breast  seamed  by  four  thrusts.' 


2  14  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

We  secured  and  towed  him  to  the  villaofe.  He  measured 
14  feet  4  inches.  I  gave  the  man  two  piastras  instead  of  one, 
and  twenty  francs  for  his  dagger,  in  commemoration  of  his  feat. 

But  to  return.  We  plough  along  the  swollen  canal,  we  lose 
our  way,  and  in  a  short  time  find  ourselves  among  shrubs  and 
towering  trees  ;  with  some  difficulty  we  get  back  to  the  lagoon 
and  reach  Las  Playas  de  Catasaja  late  in  the  evening,  when  we 
take  possession  of  an  empty  house  in  which  to  dispose  of  our 
party  and  our  numerous  packages. 

Our  next  destination  is  S.  Dominoro,  eight  miles  distant,  but  no 
carriers  to  convey  our  luggage  are  to  be  found  for  love  or  money  ; 
our  plight  might  have  been  awkward  had  not  the  mayor  offered  to 
send  to  Palenque  to  procure  as  many  men  as  can  be  had.  Mean- 
while, we  find  enough  to  engage  our  attention  in  the  place.  Don 
Rodriguez,  a  Government  Inspector  of  Mines,  has  lately  had  the 
central  stone  cross  which  stood  in  the  temple  bearing  the  same 
name  at  Palenque,  brought  here.  This  tablet,  now  so  well  known, 
has  had  a  chequered  existence. 

Some  thirty  years  ago,  it  was  taken  from  its  place,  and  left 
lying  in  a  forest  adjoining  the  town  by  the  thief,  who  was  unable 
to  carry  it  further.  It  was  unbroken  in  1858,  when  I  found 
it  covered  with  moss,  and  took  a  rather  good  photograph. 
A  squeeze  of  the  entire  monument,  composed  of  three  pieces, 
is  to  be  seen  in  the  Trocadero.  Curiously  enough,  these 
pieces  are  scattered  in  different  countries :  one  is  still  in  situ, 
the  second  at  Las  Playas,  whilst  the  third  is  in  the  Smithsonian 
Institute  at  Washington.  We  give  a  drawing  of  this  interesting 
cross,  crowned  by  a  symbolic  bird,  to  which  a  man  standing 
presents  an  offering.  Since  the  cross  was  a  symbol  of  Tlaloc, 
the  temple  in  which  it  stood  must  have  been  dedicated  to 
him,  and  perhaps  Quetzalcoatl  also,  and  it  is  clear  that  it 
was   of  the  same  origin   as   the   sc[)ulchral   cross   at   Teotihuacan; 


Las  Plavas  and  Palenque. 


215 


but  contrary  to  some  writers,  who  make  the  latter  proceed 
from  the  former,  we  make  the  first  proceed  from  the  second, 
for  In  everything  we  must  go  from  the  simple  to  the  complex, 
and    the    primitive    style,    the    simplicity,    the    archaic    aspect    of 


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mmmmmMmmSfHimXu  u  n  flwiia—weawwpBi' 


MOULDINGS    IN    THE    TEMPLE    OF    THE    CROSS    NO.     I. 


the  cross  at  Teotihuacan,  make  it  an  ascendant  and  not  a 
descendant  of  the  imaged  cross  at  Palenque,  covered  with 
ornamentation  denoting  an  advanced  period. 

Meanwhile,  the  men  from  Palenque  have  arrived,  and  our 
freight  Is  transported  in  three  days  to  S.  Domingo,  whither 
we    follow   by  the   last   train.      After  Las   Playas,  the  landscape 


2i6  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


opens  out  into  a  noble  perspective  of  fields  and  shady  groves  ; 
now  the  eye  wanders  over  the  rich  flora  of  the  savanna,  now 
it  plunges  into  the  unfathomable  depths  of  the  forest,  through 
which  the  road  is  a  succession  of  triumphal  arches,  sometimes 
so  closed  in  as  to  seem  impassable  from  a  short  distance.  We 
start  hares  and  peccaries  innumerable  ;  we  hear  the  shrill  cries 
of  aras,  mingled  with  the  howling  of  zaraguatos,  gravely  re- 
garding us  from  their  leafy  bowers,  whilst  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  wood,  a  timid  deer  gives  an  astonished  look  as  we  approach, 
ere  he  betakes  himself  to  green  and  deeper  retreats.  To  crown 
the  enjoyment  of  this  charming  ride,  we  found  a  plentiful 
luncheon  awaiting  us  at  the  Pulente  rancho ;  bananas  and 
oranges,  which  we  plucked  ourselves  from  the  trees,  composed 
our  dessert. 

The  evening  lound  us  at  S.  Domingo,  where  we  took  up  our 
quarters  with  one  of  two  European  families  settled  here.  Again 
the  delay  caused  by  the  carriers  gave  us  time  to  take  an  im- 
pression of  two  slabs,  which  were  formerly  inlaid  in  the  pillars 
supporting  the  altar  in  the  Temple  of  the  Cross  No.  i.  In  1840 
Stephens  found  them  in  the  house  of  two  elderly  spinsters,  who 
refused  to  part  with  them  ;  but  after  their  death  the  Municipality 
declared  them  public  property,  and  had  them  put  up  in  the 
church  fa9ade,  where  they  are  now  to  be  seen  ;  one  of  them, 
however,  is  broken  into  three  pieces.  Their  dimensions  are  6  feet 
by  about  3  feet.  The  left  slab  represents  a  young  man  mag- 
nificently arrayed  ;  he  wears  a  richly-embroidered  cape,  a  collar 
and  medallion  round  his  neck,  a  beautiful  girdle  to  his  waist  ;  the 
ends  of  the  maxtli  are  hanging  down  front  and  back,  cothurni 
cover  his  feet  and  legs  up  to  the  knee.  On  the  upper  end  of 
his  head-dress  is  the  head  of  a  stork,  having  a  fish  in  his  bill, 
whilst  others  are  ranged  below  it. 

The  cross  on  the  altar  justifies  our  seeing  in  this  gorgeously- 


Las   Plavas  and   Palenque. 


217 


attired  young  man  another  personification  of  the  god  of  rain,  of 
spring,  of  verdure  and  water,  symbolised  by  the  fishes  and  the 
stork's  head,  attributes  which  are  found  also  on  the  basement  of 
the  Tlaloc  of  Tacubaya.     The  other  slab  represents  an  old  man, 


Left  Pillar. 


Right  Pillar. 


SCULPTURED   STONES,    TEMPLE   OF   THE  CROSS   NO.   I. 


clothed  in  a  tiger's  skin,  blowing  out  air,  with  a  serpent  round 
his  waist,  whose  tail  curls  up  behind  and  coils  in  front,  the  well- 
ascertained  attributes  of  Ouetzalcoatl,  god  of  wisdom.  Tlaloc  and 
Ouetzalcoatl  are  often  seen  side  by  side  ;  and  we  shall  meet  them 


2i8  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

in  the  Temple  of  the  Cross,  when  we  shall  be  in  a  position  to 
advance  with  some  show  of  truth  that  the  same  was  dedicated 
to  both  deities.* 

After  much  disagreeable  and  unavoidable  delay,  we  found 
ourselves  at  Palenque,  some  six  and  a  half  miles  east  of  S. 
Domingo  ;  we  start  immediately  for  the  ruins,  which  are  made 
accessible  by  a  path  through  the  woods  opened  by  Don 
Rodriguez.  El  Rio  Michol,  to  the  north,  seems  the  limit  of  the 
ancient  city  on  that  side  ;  to  the  right  and  left,  starting  from  the 
Rio,  mounds,  hillocks,  and  vestiges  of  ruins  are  noticeable.  To 
the  south,  the  Rio  Chacamas  washes  the  base  of  lofty  peaks, 
which,  on  this  side,  encompass  the  last  traces  of  habitations  ;  the 
path  winds  up  broad  rising  ground,  seemingly  artificial.  At  a 
turn  of  the  road,  the  men  carrying  our  baggage  admonish  us  to 
look  at  the  palace,  which  we  should  never  have  spied  out  owing 
to  the  luxuriant  vegetation  which  completely  hides  it.  But  before 
we  describe  the  ruins,  we  will  say  a  few  words  respecting  Cortez' 
march  through  Acala  and  Honduras.  Some  writers,  thinking  the 
former  a  city,  have  attempted  to  identify  it  with  Palenque,  an 
error  which  we  hope  to  be  able  to  dispel. 

In  this  ill-advised  expedition,  his  personal  retinue  con- 
sisted of  two  pages,  several  musicians,  dancers,  jugglers,  and 
buffoons,  showing  more  of  the  effeminacy  of  an  Oriental  than  the 
valour  of  a  hardy  commander.  The  Spanish  force,  amongst 
whom  was  Guatemozin,  the  cacique  of  Tacuba,  and  a  number  ot 
Indians  as  carriers  and  attendants,  was  swelled  by  3,000 
Mexicans. t  Two  ships  with  supplies  were  to  sail  along  the  coast 
under  the  command  of  Simon  de  Cuenca.  From  Goatzacoalco, 
Cortez  followed  the  coast,  halted  at  Tonala,  at  Ayagualulco,  and 

*  Sahagun,  "Hist.  General  de  las  Cosas  de  la  Nueva  Espana,"  lib.  i.  cap.  v., 
and  lib.  11.  cap.  i. 

t  Bernal  Diaz,  "  Concjucst  of  New  Spain,"  tome  n.  chap,  clxxiv. 


Las   Plavas  and   Palenque.  219 

seven  leagues  further  crossed  a  river  over  a  bridge  3,250  feet 
long ;  next  came  Mazapa,  whose  course  runs  from  Chiapas  to 
Los  Dos  Brazos.  After  this  point  the  names  mentioned  by  Diaz 
are  not  known  ;  but  the  march  must  have  been  continued  along 
the  coast,  since  inland  caciques,  some  even  from  distant  Teapa, 
sent  Cortez  fifty  transports  with  supplies  ;  now  the  only  way  for 
canoes  was  by  El  Blanquillo  and  modern  Tabasco.  The  force 
must  have  passed  near  Frontera  or  east  of  it,  skirting  El  Chilapa, 
an  affluent  of  El  Tabasco,  and  halting  at  Tepetitan  at  the  head 
of  Chilapa,  called  next  at  Iztapan  and  Acala  Mayor,  where  Cortez 
was  informed  by  the  natives  that  they  would  have  three  large 
streams  and  three  smaller  ones  to  cross  ;  probably  the  Usumacinta 
and  its  tributaries.  That  this  was  the  line  of  march  is  certain,  for 
had  Cortez  passed  Palenque,  he  would  have  had  no  rivers  to 
cross,  and  could  have  marched  south  without  obstacles  ;  whereas 
the  compass  and  the  map  furnished  the  only  clue  to  extricate 
them  from  the  gloomy  labyrinth  in  which  they  were  involved,  and 
Cortez  and  his  officers,  with  their  chart  on  the  ground,  anxiously 
studied  the  probable  direction  of  their  route,  which  they  decided 
was  to  be  in  an  eastern  direction. 

With  the  aid  of  the  map  furnished  by  the  Indians,  and  such 
guides  as  they  could  pick  up,  they  continued  their  march  through 
other  villages,  and  must  have  passed  Ziguatepec,  sixteen  leagues 
further,  when  Cortez  inquired  of  the  caciques  where  the  deep 
and  large  river  he  saw  discharged  itself,  and  whether  they  had 
observed  vessels  sailing  on  the  sea.  He  was  told  that  the  river 
discharged  itself  at  Xicalango,  situated  on  one  of  the  tributaries 
of  the  Usumacinta,  some  twenty  or  twenty-five  leagues  from 
Palenque  as  a  bird  flies — a  considerable  distance  in  these  wooded 
regions. 

From  Ziguatepec  Cortez  sent  two  of  his  followers  to  look 
for  the  ships,  which  had  orders  to  wait  at  Xicalango  ;  but  when 


2  20  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


they  reached  the  place  they  found  the  crews  had  been  massacred 
and  the  ships  destroyed   by  the   Indians. 

The  Spaniards  next  halted  at  Acalan,  a  district  composed  of 
some  tiventy  villages;  very  unlike  the  approaches  to  Palenque, 
which  is  situated  on  the  first  rising  ground  of  the  Cordillera. 
Cogolludo,"'  who  follows  Herrera,  says  that  the  capital  of  the 
great  province  of  Acalan  was  Izancanac,  whose  king,  Apoxpalon, 
had  a  palace  sufficiently  large  to  accommodate  all  the  Spaniards 
without  displacing  the  inmates,  and  that  the  multitudes  of  Indian 
auxiliaries  were  quartered  in  the  town.  This  does  not  tally 
with  what  is  known  of  Palenque,  where,  save  the  palace,  all 
the  houses  and  temples  were  too  small  ever  to  have  made  it 
possible  to  accommodate  large  numbers,  unless  they  were 
distributed  all  over  the  town. 

All  the  various  indications  we  can  glean  with  regard  to 
Izancanac,  lead  us  to  assume  that  it  was  situated  somewhere 
on  the  banks  of  S.  Pedro,  a  confluent  of  the  Usumacinta,  an 
assumption  which  becomes  almost  a  certainty,  since  that  was  the 
direct  road  to  Honduras,  and  still  more  so  when  we  find  that  they 
held  on  their  toilsome  way  in  the  direction  of  Peten,  reaching 
Chaltuna  and  Tayasal  after  three  or  four  days'  march,  to  do  which, 
had  they  come  from  Palenque,  they  must  have  employed  at  least 
twenty  days. 

But  what  has  become  of  Izancanac  ?  Where  are  the  great 
buildings  which  could  accommodate  hundreds  of  people  ?  The 
very  site  is  unl.iiown,  whilst  Palenque  is  still  to  be  seen.t 
Although  it  is  so  difficult  to  determine  the  route  held  by  Cortez, 
it  affords,  nevertheless,  the  best  account  we  have  relating  to  the 
organisation  of  the  regions  he  traversed.  He  observed  throughout 
independent  cacicjues,  a  country  divided  into  more  or  less  important 

*  Cogolludo,  "  Hist,  de  Yucatan,"  tome  i.  chaps,  xiii.,  xiv.,  xv. 
t  Bernal  Diaz,  tome  ii.  chaps,  clxxv.,  clxxvi.,  clxxvii. 


Las  Playas  and  Palenque.  221 

provinces,  making  it  prol)ablc  that  the  civilising  and  powerful 
influence  which  had  knit  these  peoples  into  a  mighty  empire,  had 
long  ceased  to  be  felt  among  these  restless  populations  which,  left 
to  their  warlike  instincts,  lived  in  constant  warfare,  as,  for  instance, 
in  Yucatan  after  the  fall  of  the  dominant  Cocomes  and  Tutulxius. 

But  to  return.  That  Palenque  was  standing  at  that  time,  or  at 
any  rate  had  not  been  long  abandoned,  is  placed  beyond  a  doubt  by 
Jose  Antonio  Calderon,*  in  his  letter  dated  15th  December,  1774, 
in  which  he  mentions  having  discovered  eighteen  palaces,  twenty 
great  buildings,  and  a  hundred  and  sixty-eight  houses,  in  one 
week,  clearly  proving  that  the  forest  which  has  grown  since  over 
the  structures  had  not  assumed  such  vast  proportions,  and  that 
some  idea  could  still  be  formed  of  the  city  ;  and  if  such  was  the  case 
at  that  date,  are  we  not  justified  in  our  assumption  that  this  city 
was  standing  and  inhabited  at  the  Conquest  in  1520  ? 

Before  Calderon,  Garcia  in  1729  had  already  mentioned  the 
ruins  of  Palenque,  but  unfortunately  his  work  has  not  been  found  ; 
and  Juarros,  in  his  account  of  Chiapas, t  says  :  "  There  is  no  doubt 
that  this  region  has  been  inhabited  by  a  cultured  and  mighty 
nation,  shown  in  the  imposing  piles  of  buildings  at  Culhuacan 
and  Tollan,  traces  of  which  are  noticeable  near  Ocosinao  and 
Palenque."  Tollan  (Palenque),  Culhuacan  (Ocosingo),  bespeak 
that  these  names  were  still  remembered  by  the  Indians  as  late 
as  the  seventeenth  century,  that  they  owed  their  origin  to  the 
Toltecs,  since  the  same  appellations  occur  on  the  plateaux,  and 
were  carried  by  the  emigrants  to  their  later  settlements  in 
remembrance  of  their  older  ones — a  constant  practice  among  the 
Indians  ;  and  their  wanderings  from  north  to  south  w^ere  marked 
by  cities  and  colonies  having  appellations  which  are  found  both 
on  the  plateaux  and  in  Chiapas.     The  same  thing  happens  now 


*  "Origin  of  American  Indians,"  book  11.  chap.  i.  p.  46.     Madrid,  1729. 

+  Juarros,  "  Compend.  de  la  Hist,  de  la  Ciudad  de  Guatemala,"  tome  i.  chap.  iv. 


222  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

in  every  new  colony,  for  which  instances  might  be  given  ad 
infinitwn. 

Fray  Tello  tells  us  that  the  Spaniards  found  in  Jalisco 
localities  and  cities  whose  names  existed  already  in  the  Mexican 
Valley,  such  as  Ameca,  Culhuacan,  Tequicistlan,  Juchitan,  etc.  ;*  and 
Diaz,  in  his  account  of  Rangre's  expedition,  writes  :  "  They  set 
out  to  subdue  the  provinces  of  Cematan  and  Tulapan  in  the 
south."  Unfortunately  the  narrative  stops  at  Cematan,  and  we 
have  to  be  satisfied  with  the  bare  mention  of  Tulapan,  which  is, 
however,  sufficient  for  our  purpose. 

Taking  the  palace  as  a  starting-point,  it  may  be  said  that 
the  city  is  built  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheatre,  on  the  lowest 
slopes  of  the  lofty  Cordillera  beyond  ;  its  high  position  afforded 
a  magnificent  view  over  the  forest- covered  plain  below  stretching 
as  far  as  the  sea.  Some  travellers  have  fancied  they  saw  the 
sea  from  the  summits  of  the  temples,  but  it  is  more  likely  to 
have  been  Catasaja  lagoon,  some  ten  leagues  to  the  north,  for 
it  is  doubtful  if  at  this  height  (650  feet),  the  ocean  is  visible 
even  on  the  clearest  day.  We  find  ourselves  on  the  pyramid, 
we  are  in  the  palace,  and  my  impressions,  as  a  mature  man, 
are  very  different  to  what  they  were  seven- and-twenty  years 
ago,  when  my  appreciation  of  the  structure  was  very  indifferent, 
while  now  my  admiration  for  this  massive  palace,  these  ruined 
temples,  these  pyramids,  is  profound,  nay,  almost  overpowering. 
In  all  these  structures,  the  builder  levelled  out  the  ground  in 
narrow  terraces,  on  which  artificial  elevations  of  pyramidal  form 
were  reared,  which  on  the  hillside  were  faced  with  hewn  stones, 
and  divided  into  storeys,  as  we  have  seen  at  Teotihuacan.  I 
notice  many  changes  since  I  was  here  before  ;  portions  of  walls, 
the  whole  front  of  the  Temple  of  the  Cross  (No.   i)  have  given 

*  Ant.  Tello,  "  Hist,  de  la  Nueva  Galicia."      "Coleccion  Icazbalceta,"  tome  11. 
Mexico,  1866. 


Las  Plavas  and  Palenque. 


22 


way,  and  in  the  Lion's  Temple  the  fine  bas-rehef  over  the  ahar 
has  disappeared.  It  is  sad  to  calculate  how  much  more  havoc 
another  fifty  years  will  make  ;  there  will  be  nothing,  probably, 
but  a  mass   of  mouldering    ruins,    such   as  are    met  with    in   the 

woods,  on  the  low       

hills,  and  the  plain 
around. 

Whilst  our  men 
are  clearing  the 
palace,  we  pene- 
trate the  thick 
forest       throuo^h 

o 

which  some  of  our 
Indians  open  out  a 
passage.  We  re- 
cognise the  build- 
ings that  have 
been  described, 
but  throughout  our 
progress  we  see 
nothing  but  heaps 
of  unformed  ruins. 
We  take  up  our 
quarters  in  the 
palace  itself;  our 
kitchen  and  din- 
ing-room are  in 
the  outward  gallery  of  the  eastern  entrance,  whilst  our  sleeping 
apartments  are  in  the  eastern  gallery  of  the  inner  wing.  From 
our  dining-room  we  look  out  on  the  forest,  and  our  bedrooms 
open  on  the  courtyard  of  the  palace.  Although  Indians 
as  a  rule    are    apathetic,    the\'    are    brisk    and    energetic    enoueh 


OUR   KITCHEN    AT   PALENQUE,   IN   ONE  OF   THE   CORRIDORS. 


2  24  'The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


with  the  machete,  with  which  they  open  out  a  path  so  rapidly 
that  one  can  walk  after  them  a  normal  pace  without  stopping, 
and  they  fell  enormous  trees  as  easily  as  Europeans  would 
shrubs. 

We  will  begin  with  the  palace,  giving  the  plan  of  the  north 
portion  of  the  corridors  and  the  tower ;  we  can  vouch  for  the 
accuracy  of  our  plan,  although  it  differs  entirely  from  those  which 
have  been  hitherto  published. 

The  palace  consisted  of  two  distinct  parts  (this  has  not  been 
understood  by  any  of  my  predecessors,  not  even  Waldeck);  a  double 
gallery  ran  along  the  east,  north,  and  west  sides,  surrounding  an 
inner  structure,  likewise  with  a  double  gallery  and  two  courtyards 
of  different  dimensions  ;  it  was  a  kind  of  covered  walk  or  cloister 
quite  separate  from  the  remaining  edifice,  which  to  the  south  must 
have  constituted  the  dwelling  proper.  The  entire  pile  of  building 
was  reared  on  the  same  platform,  forming  an  irregular  quadri- 
lateral, and  if  we  except  the  galleries,  nothing  seems  to  have  been 
constructed  systematically  or  on  a  given  plan:  the  various  parts  are 
of  different  dimensions  or  different  heights,  and  the  courts  enclosed 
within  the  galleries  form  trapezes  instead  of  rectangles,  one 
measuring  6  feet  7  inches  more  to  the  north  than  to  the  south, 
so  that  the  structures  are  not  parallel.  To  the  south,  which  it  is 
agreed  to  consider  as  forming  the  dwelling  apartments,  this  con- 
fusion is  more  apparent  and  complete,  for  here  they  seem  to  have 
dispensed  with  any  plan  at  all  ;  buildings  large  and  small  reared 
on  different  levels  are  found,  in  juxtaposition,  or  at  some 
distance  from  each  other  ;  the  roof  is  sloping  or  perpendicular,  the 
decorations  copious  or  scanty  according  to  the  whim  of  the  artist  ; 
some  of  the  apartments,  as  compared  to  others,  are  underground 
and  enter(;d  by  gloomy  steps  which  receive  a  dim  light  from 
the  .south  side  of  the  pyramid,  here  only  a  few  feet  from  the 
ground. 


Las  Playas  and  Palenque. 


In  these  subterraneous  apartments  are  three  large  stone  tables 
with  sculptured  edges  ;  they  are  called  altars,  beds,  sacrificial  and 
dining  tables,  by  different  writers,  the  latter  appellation  seems  the 
most  probable.  The  independent  position  of  the  cloister  is  very 
clear  in  our  cut  ;  the  left  pillar  is  seen  supporting  the  extremity  of 
the  frieze  and  the  end  of  the  roof,  which  terminated  here  as  it  did 
on  the  west  side. 

,.v;|:i:S";'^Slilii^#^  " ' '"'  ^ - "''■' ■I^^ '';■-;: ■■^' ■'''"Z:_ ^'-^ -^:r-'^Wk 

wklh^f'^i^-  True   Facade.  ihiler   Gallerv.         hauide.  '~     '   -  v'yi/'t^f^ 

mM^''       '":;■" -— ",  ■Mi;'-}^,,smm         -Rui^^M^an    ■--'-  -  •^:mmmmm0MKnius.WI^0i: 


mi:' 


WMH 


PLAN  OF  PALACE  AT  PALENQUE  (NORTH  SIDE). 


All  travellers  before  us  have  surrounded  the  entire  palace  with 
this  gallery,  as  they  have  surrounded  the  great  pyramid  on  which 
the  palace  stands  with  a  continuous  stairway,  but  quite  erroneously, 
as  is  clearly  shown  in  our  photograph,  which  cannot  be  wrong, 
and  which  presents  a  perpendicular  wall  throughout  its  length. 
The    pyramid    was  divided    on  the   east,   north,    and    west  sides, 

Q 


226 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


which  were  higher,  into  three  or  four  platforms  of  which  we  found 
traces  in  the  north  portion. 

We  have  mentioned  in  a  former  chapter  that  similar  sections 
or  platforms  are  found  in  all  the  pyramids  of  a  certain  height 
discovered  by  us  at  Palenque,  which,  according  to  tradition,  had 
their  prototypes  in  the  Uplands  ;  and  this  is  particularly  noticeable 
on  the  north  side  of  the  pyramid,  where  the  palace  facade  is 
completely  destroyed.  Here,  and  not  on  the  east  side,  as  some 
have  supposed,  was  the  entrance,  sufficiently  proved  by  the  wealth 
of  ornamentation  displayed  on  this  portion  of  the  pyramid,  and 


Elevation. 

L_ 


^i..^-yli^^p^^t^;iyaif^^f^^^^^ 


Section. 


Plan. 

?=r^v<?^J%t;^''A?^4?^r'^/*^'-'<'//''=v^^^^  Scale. 

BASEMENT  OF   TYRAMID   IN   THE   PALACE   OF   PALENQUE. 


not  observable  anywhere  else.  The  base  was  incrusted  with  fine 
slabs  some  4  feet  8  inches  high,  with  intervening  pillars  in  relief 
some  6  feet  apart,  topped  by  a  cornice  of  some  6  inches.  Above 
this  stood  the  wall  of  the  second  platform,  indicated  by  traces  of 
a  stairway  which  occupied  the  centre  and  led  to  the  gallery.  This 
pyramid  was  the  basement  on  which  the  palace  was  reared  ;  it 
is  irregular  on  all  its  sides,  contrary  to  the  drawings  of  some 
explorers,  who  have  given  it  a  symmetrical  shape  and  equal 
elevation.  It  is  not  easy  to  see  how  the  mistake  could  arise,  for 
its  irregularity  is  very  apparent.  The  highest  elevation  is  found 
on  the  north  side,  measuring  over  22  feet;  the  east  and  west 
sides  slope  down,  ending  at  the  south-east  angle  with  a  perpen- 


Q     2 


Las  Playas  and  Palenque.  229 

dicular  corner  of  6  feet  6  inches  ;  whilst  at  the  south-west  corner 
they  are  level  with  the  ground.  It  is  the  arrangement  of  all 
pyramids  which  were  raised  on  platforms  imperfectly  levelled  out ; 
they  are  always  found  higher  on  the  north  side  facing  the  plain, 
than  on  the  south  side  towards  the  sierra.  This  was  observable 
in  the  pyramids  supporting  the  four  buildings  to  the  north  of  the 
palace,  in  the  Temple  of  Inscriptions,  the  Temple  of  the  Cross 
No.  I,  that  of  the  Cross  No.  2,  and  in  the  mound  known  as  Cerro 
Alto,  over  487  feet  high  on  the  north  side,  and  nearly  on  a  level 
with  the  crest  of  the  low  hills  to  the  south,  and  many  more. 

At  the  south-east  angle  of  the  great  pyramid,  is  a  covered 
canal  which  drained  a  mountain  stream  from  the  south,  but  has 
been  long  since  blocked  up,  whilst  the  torrent  has  found  a  natural 
bed  some  75  feet  from  the  pyramid,  and  falls  back  into  the  canal 
162  feet  beyond.  Our  cut  of  the  outer  facade  of  the  east  gallery 
will  enable  the  reader  to  see  the  mistake  pointed  out  by  us  ;  it 
shows  clearly  the  extremity  of  the  gallery,  and  its  outline  at  the 
angle  of  the  frieze  to  the  south.  This  outline,  while  restoring  the 
projecting  cornice  now  wanting,  faithfully  reproduces  the  outline 
of  the  Toltec  calli,  given  in  our  chapter  on  Tula.  The  west  front, 
as  seen  in  the  plan  and  subsequent  photographs,  has  exacdy  the 
same  arrangement,  so  that  doubt  is  impossible.  The  same  writers 
have  given  a  flight  of  steps  to  the  eastern  facade,  while  in  our 
drawing  a  perpendicular  wall  replaces  it,  and  agreeably  to  what 
has  been  stated,  we  place  the  stairs  on  the  north  side,  where 
traces  were  found  by  us.  That  this  is  its  proper  place  is  made 
probable  by  four  beautiful  buildings  situated  on  this  side  some 
487  feet  beyond,  on  the  same  platform,  and  apparently  part  of  the 
same  pile  of  building.  This  side  of  the  gallery  was  supported  by 
six  pillars  6  feet  7  inches  wide,  by  1 2  feet  high  ;  the  corner  pillar 
is  decorated  with  forty  katunes  in  fairly  good  preservation ;  the 
others  with   bas-reliefs  of  two  or    three   figures   and  inscriptions 


2.^0 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


T   A 


ii 


in  stucco  or  hard  plaster,  partly  destroyed.  Stephens  reproduced 
the  one  on  the  fifth  pillar  to  the  right,  which  stands  alone,  the 
building  it  supported  having  fallen.  It  was  then  in  good 
preservation,  though  now  much  defaced  ;  from  Stephens'  drawing, 
however,  it  would  be  difficult  to  form  an  idea  of  the  high  degree 
of  perfection  of  these  reliefs. 

By   a   lucky  chance,   we   were  able  to  bring  to  light  one    of 
the  figures,  as  perfect  and  as  fresh  as  on  the  day  it  left  the  artist's 

hands,   and  from  it  we  are  able   to  find 
,ljl  out  the  way  the  artist  did  his  work.      In 

our  cut  this  relic  is  on  the  centre  pillar, 
which  was  entirely  covered  with  a  thick 
calcareous  coating,  caused  by  water  trick- 
ling from  the  cornice  ;  under  this  coating 
the  faint  outline  of  three  figures  was  just 
perceptible.  My  first  attempt  to  uncover 
the  standing  figure  was  not  successful, 
for  the  hammer  brought  both  the  layer 
of  lime  and  part  of  the  head  of  the 
figure  with  it.  I  was  more  cautious  in 
attacking  the  sitting  figure  to  the  left, 
SCULPTURED  FIGURE  ON  PILLAR,     and     fortunatc    enough     to    bring    it    to 

light  without  breaking  so  much  as  a 
bead  round  his  neck,  a  charming  specimen  of  an  art  which  was 
not  even  suspected.  It  represents  a  man  seated  Turkish  fashion, 
his  head  turned  in  a  contemplative  attitude  towards  the  standing 
figure  to  the  centre  of  the  pillar,  the  forefinger  of  the  left  hand 
pointing  to  him,  while  the  right  rests  on  his  knee  ;  his  head-dress 
is  a  kind  of  mitre  with  a  tuft  of  feathers  in  stronof  relief,  a 
head-dress  we  shall  meet  again  at  Lorillard  ;  a  beautiful  collar 
is   round    his    neck,    his    cape    like  that    worn    by    ladies    at    the 


present    day,    bracelets    are    round    his    arms,    his    dress    below 


Las  Playas  and  Palenque. 


231 


the  girdle  is  like  the  cape.  I  immediately  had  a  drawing 
taken  of  this  chef-d'oeuvre ;  but,  having  inadvertently  broken 
some  beads  and  the  spangles  round  his  arm,  I  was  surprised 
to  find  it  perfectly  modelled  underneath.  I  undressed  the 
figure,  which  was  throughout  beautifully  finished.  From  this 
it  was  clear  that  the  artist  modelled  first  his  figures,  and  that 
drapery  and  ornaments  were  added  afterwards,  which  we  found 
was  also  the  case  for  the  ornamentation  on  the  monuments, 
as  well  as  for  the  Toltec  idols,  the  Tlalocs  of  our  cemetery, 
and  some  figures  at 
Teotihuacan. 

The  inside  of  the 
gallery  where  we 
had  our  drawing- 
room  and  kitchen 
was  decorated  with 
medallions,  persona- 
ting, in  all  proba- 
bility, priests  and 
priestesses  ;  our  cut 
is    of  the    only  one 


MEDALLION   IN   PASSAGE   OF   EAST    WING   OF   THE   FALACE. 


in  pretty  good  pre- 
servation. To  judge  from  the  head-dress  and  delicate  fea- 
tures, it  portrays  a  woman  of  the  same  type  as  our  sitting 
figure ;  it  is  a  Palenque,  a  conventional,  a  deformed  type,  of 
which  we  shall  speak  again.  The  medallion  is  topped  by  four 
hieroglyphics,  "  Katunes,"  giving  the  name  of  the  person, 
surrounded  by  curious  but  elegant  ornaments,  recalling  the 
rococo  style  of  Louis  XV.  ;  while  to  the  right  is  seen  the 
outline  of  a  head  deficient  of  its  head-dress.  This  medallion, 
although  somewhat  defaced,  shows  as  careful  modelling  as  the 
sitting  figure,  and  seems  to  us  very  remarkable. 


2U 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


The  east  gallery  measures  114  feet  in  length;  the  north 
gallery,  which  is  broken  down,  185  feet;  the  west  gallery 
102  feet  only ;  and  the  intervening  space  between  the  two 
northern  galleries,  about  175  feet;  consequently  there  is  a 
difference    of    i  i    feet    in    the    length    of     the    north    and    south 


cn...&p.u,.7!^.'/i  bLkiii 


'  % _  -  -       ^ 

HUGE   BAS-RELIEFS   IN   THE   PALACE   COURT,   I'ALEN(iUE. 


galleries,  proving  once  more  the  confusion  mentioned  above. 
The  main  court  is  reached  by  an  arch  widening  at  the  top,  shaped 
like  a  trefoil,  giving  access  to  a  broad  staircase  of  seven  steps 
16  inches  high.  On  each  side  are  sculptured,  in  low  relief,  a 
group  of  human  figures,  occupying  the  basement  of  the  gallery 
formed  by  huge  stone   slabs  inclined  at  the  same  angle  as   the 


Las  Playas  and  Palenque. 


-JO 


stairs,  five  to  the  right,  four  to  the  left,  representing  priests  in 
uncomfortable  attitudes.  Mitres  cover  their  heads ;  collars, 
bracelets,  and  maxtlis  are  their  only  covering  ;  the  maxtli  of 
the  first  figure  is  covered  with  hieroglyphs.  The  court  measures 
upwards  of  6i  feet  to  the  north  and  east,  only  55  feet  to  the 
south,  and  7 1  feet  to  the  west  ;  in  fact,  as  irregular  as  can  be 
well  imaofined.      To  the  south  of   this   court  is  a  small  structure 


SMALL   BUILDING   TO   THE   SOUTH    OK    THE    PALACE   COURT. 


with   three  openings,   giving  some    idea    of    what    the    dwellings 
were  like,  and  the  curious  medley  of  these  edifices. 

In  effect,  we  find  one  sunk  about  the  gallery  to  the  right, 
with  a  lower  building  to  the  left,  and  a  frieze  or  perpendicular 
entablature  topped  by  a  flat  roof,  whilst  both  roof  and  entabla- 
ture slope  on  the  small  edifice.  In  this  portion  of  the  palace 
Stephens  found  some  wooden  fragments,  of  very  rare  occurrence 
at  Palenque,  on  account  of  its  damp  climate  ;  while  at  Comalcalco, 
which  is  older  and  damper  still,  none  have  been  found. 


234  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

The  dilapidated  condition  of  the  small  edifice  robs  It  of  some 
of  its  interest  ;  yet  the  Interior  and  the  frieze  furnish  valuable 
details  of  ornamentation.  First  comes  a  decorative  fragment 
round  the  niches  or  openings  in  the  shape  of  a  Tau,  found 
both  in  the  galleries  and  the  apartments  of  the  palace  ;  next  a 
portion  of  a  frieze  decoration  in  the  same  building,  but  so  de- 
faced that  nothing  is  distinguishable,  save  the  head  of  a  fantastic 
dragon,  whose  neck  is  framed  with  coils,  palms,  or  feathers, 
emblems  of  QuetzalcoatI ;  and  lastly  the  ornamentation  over  the 
entrance  of  a  round,  flat-topped  edifice,  by  far  the  most  in- 
teresting because  of  the  head  seen  in  the  centre  with  nose  and 
forehead  straight,  contrasting  with  the  retreating  foreheads  of 
the  reliefs  on  both  pillars  and  temples ;  proving  that  the  latter 
are  conventional  types,  exaggerated  likenesses  of  a  particular 
family,  whether  warrior  or  priest,  rather  than  the  faithful  por- 
traiture of  a  race.     We  shall  also  find  this  type  at  Uxmal. 

Torquemada  says  with  regard  to  these  deformations  in 
Mexico:  "They  defaced  their  faces  so  as  to  acquire  an 
appearance  of  ferocity,  enlarging  their  ears,  nostrils,  and  lips  by 
introducing  silver,  gold,  or  stone  jewels.  It  had  the  twofold 
use  of  acting  as  a  scare  against  their  enemies  and  as  a  personal 
improvement ;  and  that  they  might  look  fierce  in  war,  chiefs 
were  obliged  in  some  districts  to  make  their  heads  long  and 
their  foreheads  broad  ;  as  Hippocrates  relates  of  microcephales, 
so  did  these  people  practise."'"  And  again  :  "  Some  have  pointed 
heads,  square  flat  foreheads,  whilst  others  are  like  the  Mexicans 
and  Peruvians,  who  had  and  still  have  heads  something  like  a 
martillo,  hammer,  or  better  still,  like  a  ship  [navio),''  meaning 
oblong,  probably.t 

Landa  tells  nearly  the  same  thing   as   to    these  practices  in 

*  Torquemada,  "Monarquia  Indiana,"  lib.  xiv.  cap.  xxiv.        t  ^^'i^-  cap.  xxv. 


Las  Plavas  and  Palenque. 


=00 


/^^ 


'-^   Uhj  lij.'^iv  /-vf  v  ;«-f f 


FRAGMENT  OF   DECORATION   SHAPED   LIKE  A  TAU,  SURROUNDING   NICHES   IN   THE  CORRIDORS 
AND  APARTMENTS  OF  THE   PALACE. 


FRIEZE   DECORATION   OF   BUILDING   SOUTH   OF   THE   COURT. 


'JZV 


At 


FRAGMENT  OF  DECORATION  OVER  A  DOOR. 


Yucatan,  corroborating  Torquemada.     These  defaced  heads  have 
given    rise    to    wild    theories ;    some   saw    in    these    rehefs   sun- 


236  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the   New  World. 


kings  who,  in  mythical  times,  had  travelled  thither  from  Europe  ; 
it  had  been  more  natural  to  take  them  as  representations  of 
microcephales  worshipped  by  these  people  as  monstrosities. 

But  to  return.  The  east  front  in  the  Inner  wing  of  the  palace 
is  nearly  intact — the  richest  In  ornamentation,  and  the  portion 
of  the  palace  where  the  peculiarities  of  this  architecture  are  best 
studied.  The  structure  Intervening  between  the  two  courts 
consists  of  two  roofed  galleries,  supported  on  each  side  by  six 
pillars,  enclosing  five  large  arches.  The  entrance  is  through 
the  central  arch,  which  is  somewhat  larger  than  the  others,  and 
Is  preceded  by  a  flight  of  steps  having  hieroglyphics  In  relief;  on 
each  side  of  It  were  two  large  decorative  figures,  one  of  which 
Is  still  standing.  The  base,  which  is  remarkable,  has  three 
small  platforms,  sustained  by  sculptured  pillars  divided  by  large 
retreating  slabs,  with  small  squares  of  hieroglyphics.  The  pillars 
were  covered  on  the  outer  and  lateral  sides  with  reliefs  in 
cement,  vestiges  of  which  are  still  discernible.  The  lintels  over 
the  doorways  of  the  gallery  have  disappeared ;  they  were  of 
red  zapote  wood,  and  their  impress  Is  unmistakable.  These 
ornamental  woods  cannot  all  have  long  been  demolished ;  for 
in  Palenque,  Mr.  Kohler  showed  me  a  yard-measure  and  a  stick 
he  had  had  made  out  of  a  lintel  found  amonof  the  ruins. 

These  facts,  taken  altogether,  seem  to  indicate  that  the 
buildings  at  Palenque  are  not  so  old  as  is  supposed.  The  roof 
in  the  upper  portion  of  the  palace  slopes  gently,  and  the  entabla- 
ture is  so  marvellously  rich,  that  I  found  fresh  details  every 
time  I  visited  It.  The  frieze  was  decorated  with  seven  enormous 
heads ;  the  last  one  to  the  right  has  still  visible  the  mouth, 
nose,  and  eyebrows.  These  heads  were  obtained  by  means  of 
slabs  enclosed  in  tl\c  wall  as  stays  to  the  cement,  which  was 
modelled  by  the  sculptor  whilst  in  this  soft  state.  The  central 
figure  over   the  door  of  the  gallery   is  the  largest ;    each  seems 


Las  Playas  and  Palenque. 


239 


to  have  had  on  either  side  statues  Hfe-size  in  high  rehef,  and 
traces  of  them  occur  throughout.  Sometimes  it  is  the  distinct 
outline  of  the  fallen  relief,  sometimes  it  is  a  leg,  sometimes 
part  of  a  torso.  Near  the  central  figure  to  the  left,  we  traced 
the  entire  lower  portion  of  one  of  the  fifjures,    which    brino-.s  to 


EASTERN   FACADE   OF    INNER  WING   OF  THE   PALACE,  PALENQUE. 


our  mind  the  fragment  we  found  at  Comalcalco  {vide  chap. 
Comalcalco).  If  this  frieze  were  crowned  by  a  light  cornice, 
with  stucco  ornaments  lozenge-shaped,  if  the  roof  were  likewise 
enriched  with  sculpture  and  reliefs,  some  idea  would  be  had  of 
this    magnificent    and   noble    edifice.      Besides   a    photograph,   we 


240  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

give  the  restoration  of  the  palace,  as  near  the  truth  as  could 
be  obtained  with  the  aid  of  a  plan  and  details  drawn  upon  the 
spot. 

The  gallery  inside  was  decorated  with  fantastic,  terrible, 
monstrous  figures  of  Indian  deities.  Our  cut  shows  the  best 
preserved,  if  we  except  the  relief,  which  recalls  the  masks 
on  the  frieze.  It  may  also  be  observed  that  the  north  end  is 
a  plain  wall,  which  was  separated  from  the  fallen  gallery  by  a 
narrow  passage,  while  to  the  south  the  double  gallery  ended 
with  two  apertures  leading  to  the  yard  where  stands  the  palace 
tower.  The  gallery  opposite  to  this  is  connected  with  the  west 
gallery  by  a  narrow  doorway,  the  interior  of  which  is  quite  plain  ; 
if  medallions  were  here,  no  trace  is  left  of  them  on  the  polished 
stucco  walls.  This  gallery  opens  on  a  small  courtyard,  blocked 
up  by  the  west  wing  of  the  palace  to  the  west,  by  the  main 
gallery  to  the  north,  and  by  the  tower  to  the  south.  This  court- 
yard is  likewise  irregular  and  much  narrower  than  the  other, 
measuring  19  feet  6  inches  to  the  north,  and  22  feet  to  the 
south.  The  basement  of  the  gallery  in  this  court  is  as  rich 
as  in  the  main  gallery ;  sculptured  pillars  are  distributed  at  a 
distance  of  6  feet,  divided  by  beautiful  flags  with  katunes,  which 
fit  admirably. 

The  tower  is  not  the  least  curiosity  in  this  wonderful  palace  ; 
trees  grow  over  and  about  it,  whose  roots  surround  the  walls  like 
iron  circles ;  unfortunately  every  explorer,  whether  to  draw  or 
photograph  it,  has  had  the  roots  of  the  trees  removed,  and  this 
will  greatly  accelerate  its  complete  downfall.  It  is  a  square  tower, 
which  rose  by  three  storeys  over  a  ground  floor,  ornamented  to 
the  north  with  pointed  niches ;  the  top  storey  has  disappeared, 
and  the  great  trees  to  the  right  bend  over,  ominously  threatening 
it  with  utter  destruction.  It  is  not  unlike  the  Comalcalco  tower; 
but   the  decorations   were   in  all   probability  less  rich,  for  beyond 


TOWER    IN   THE   PALACE. 


Las  Playas  and  Palenque. 


24: 


some  stucco  coatings  still  facing  some  portions,  I  saw  nothing 
in  the  remains  which  could  compare  with  the  great  decorative 
subjects  of  that  city. 

The  west  wing  of  the  palace  is  the  best  preserved,  but  unlike 
the   other  two,  it   has  no  longer  a  double  gallery.      The  interior 


THE    PALACE,   WESTERN    FACADE. 

has  three  long,  narrow  apartments  which  open  on  the  courtyard, 
and  communicate  with  the  exterior  by  two  doorways  at  each 
end.  The  outer  gallery  is  also  the  best  preserved  ;  the  facade 
is  entire,  except  the  centre  of  the  north-west  angle,  while  all 
the  pillars  still  bear  traces  of  the  beautiful  reliefs  with  which 
they  were  once  ornamented. 

The  south  end  of  this  gallery  shows  clearly  that  the   monu- 

R    2 


244 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


mcnt  ended  here,  and  that  the  cloisters,  as  we  have  named  them, 
constituted  a  separate  pile,  which  was  divided  from  the  group 
of  dvvelHngs.  Opposite  to  this,  some  325  feet  distant  to  the 
west,  rose  another  pyramid  crowned  with  a  temple,  of  which 
nothing  but  mouldering  ruins  remain. 


V 


-^"'S  'WMPW\ 


MEDALLION    IN   PASSAGE  OF   INNER   WING. 


TEMPLE   OF   INSCRIPTIONS,  PALENQUE. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 


PALENQUE.       TEMPLES. 


Palenque  a  Holy  City — Bas-reliefs — Rain  and  Fever — A  Grateful  Cook — Temple  of 
Inscriptions — Temple  of  the  Sun — Temple  of  the  Cross  No.  i — Temple  of 
the  Cross  No.  2 — Altars — Mouldings  and  Photographs — Fire — Explorations 
— Fallen  Houses — The  Age  of  Trees  in  Connection  with  the  Ruins — 
Recapitulation. 

Some  writers  have  called  Palenque  a  capital,  and  the  great  edifice 
known  as  the  palace  a  royal  mansion,  but  they  have  erred,  for  if 
there  was  a  royal  palace  It  was  not  the  one  we  have  described. 
Like  Teotlhuacan,  Izamal,  and  Cozumel,  Palenque  was  a  holy 
place,   an   Important   religious   centre,   a  city  which    was  resorted 


246  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

to  as  a  place  of  pilgrimage,  teeming  with  shrines  and  temples, 
a  vast  and  much-sought  burial-place.  In  this  and  in  no  other 
way  can  be  explained  the  silence  surrounding  this  great  city, 
which  was  probably  peopled  by  a  floating  population  dispersed 
at  the  first  alarm  of  the  Conquest. 

This  important  city  is  apparently  without  civic  architecture  ; 
no  public  buildings  are  found,  there  seems  to  have  been  nothing 
but  temples  and  tombs.  Consequently  the  great  edifice  was  not 
a  royal  palace,  but  rather  a  priestly  habitation,  a  magnificent 
convent  occupied  by  the  higher  clergy  of  this  holy  centre,  as 
the  reliefs  everywhere  attest. 

Had  Palenque  been  the  capital  of  an  empire,  the  palace  a 
kingly  mansion,  the  history  of  her  people,  fragments  of  domestic 
life,  pageants,  recitals  of  battles  and  conquests,  would  be  found 
among  the  reliefs  which  everywhere  cover  her  edifices,  as  in 
Mexico,  at  Chichen-Itza  and  other  cities  in  Yucatan  ;  whereas 
the  reliefs  in  Palenque  show  nothing  of  the  kind.  On  them 
we  behold  peaceful,  stately  subjects,  usually  a  personage  standing 
with  a  sceptre,  sometimes  a  calm,  majestic  figure  whose  mouth 
emits  a  flame,  emblem  of  speech  and  oratory.  They  are 
surrounded  by  prostrated  acolytes,  whose  bearing  is  neither 
that  of  slaves  nor  of  captives ;  for  the  expression  of  their 
countenance,  if  submissive,  is  open  and  serene,  and  their  peaceful 
attitude  indicates  worshippers  and  believers  ;  no  arms  are  found 
among  these  multitudes,  nor  spear,  nor  shield,  nor  bow,  nor 
arrow,  nothing  but   preachers  and  devotees. 

The  interest  attaching  to  these  studies  is  certainly  profound 
and  sincere,  yet  it  does  not  entirely  banish  the  consciousness  of 
our  very  arduous  life  among  these  ruins.  The  rain  is  incessant ; 
the  damp  seems  to  penetrate  the  very  marrow  of  our  bones  ; 
a  vegetable  mould  setdes  on  our  hats  which  we  are  obliged  to 
brush  off  daily  ;   we  live  in   mud,   we  are  covered  with  mud,   we 


Palenque.     Temples.  247 

breathe  in  mud,  whether  amongst  the  ruins  or  wandering  away 
from  them  ;  the  ground  is  so  sHppery  that  we  are  as  often  on 
our  backs  as  on  our  feet. 

No  rest  for  the  explorer,  is  the  fiat  that  has  gone  forth. 
At  night  the  walls,  which  are  covered  with  greenish  moss, 
trickle  down  on  our  weary  heads  and  awake  us  out  of  our  sleep ; 
in  the  day-time  we  are  a  prey  to  swarms  of  insects,  rodadores, 
mosquitoes,  and  garrapatas.  It  is  impossible  to  bear  up 
long  against  such  odds,  and  first  young  Lemaire,  next  Alfonso 
the  cook,  are  laid  up  with  malaria.  Julian  and  I  are  the  only 
two  of  the  party  whom  this  scourge  has  spared.  Yet  this  wretched 
life  is  not  without  some  gleams  of  sunshine.  Since  our  men 
opened  a  large  space  in  front  of  the  palace,  and  cleared  the 
courtyard  of  the  dense  vegetation  which  blocked  it  up  completely, 
allowing  a  free  passage  for  the  air  to  circulate,  the  birds 
have  not  been  slow  to  avail  themselves  of  this  new  retreat, 
and  our  mornings  and  evenings  are  cheered  by  their  sweet 
notes.  We  have  our  night  concerts  also,  when  innumerable 
creatures,  whose  names  we  know  not,  mingle  their  voices  with 
the  chirping  of  the  cricket,  the  song  of  the  cicala,  the  croaking 
of  frogs,  followed  by  the  howling  of  huge  monkeys,  which 
sounds  like  the  roaring  of  lions  and  tigers ;  all  this  is  new 
to  us,  and  not  without  a  certain  amount  of  excitement,  yet 
it  sinks  into  utter  insignificance  as  compared  with  the  great 
joy  of  our  discoveries,  the  ever  fresh  interest  of  our  photographs, 
the  looking  forward  with  immense  satisfaction  to  the  time 
when  we  shall  produce  the  splendid  squeezes  of  these  grand, 
mysterious  inscriptions,  not  yet  found  in  any  museum.  Well 
weighed  together,  these  things  are  calculated  to  make  us  forget 
the  hardships  and  troubles  of  the   moment. 

Quinine  has  done  wonders  ;  our  men  are  themselves  again, 
and   Alfonso,  to  make   us    forget   the    meagre    fare    he    inflicted 


248  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World, 

npon  us  during  his  illness,  served  up  a  magnificent  luncheon  to 
celebrate  his  recovery.  The  reader  may  like  to  read  the  menu 
of  a  ddjeuner  in  the  wilds  of  America : — 

Soupe  :  Puree  de  haricots  noirs  au  bouillon  d'escargots.  Olives 
de  Valence,  saucisson  d'Arles.  Poulet  de  grain,  saute  a  Tail  et 
au  piment  rouge.  Morue  frite.  Chives,  pointes  de  petits  palmiers 
en  branches  d'asperge.  Fritures  :  haricots  noirs  rissoles.  Crepes. 
Fromagfe  americain.  Vins  :  Bordeaux  et  Arao'on.  Cafe,  habanero 
et  cio-ares  de  Tabasco. 

I  am  not  sure  about  the  order  of  succession,  but  1  can  vouch 
for  the  items  being  correct,  from  which  it  may  be  seen  that  even 
at  Palenque,  with  fine  weather  and  a  grateful  cook,  one  need  not 
starve,  but  he  would  be  gready  mistaken  who  thought  that  this 
was  our  every  day's  fare.      Let  us  return  to  graver  concerns. 

The  Temple  of  Inscriptions  is  the  largest  known  at  Palenque, 
standing  on  a  pyramid  of  some  48  feet  high,  to  the  south-west 
angle  of  the  palace  ;  its  fa9ade,  74  feet  by  nearly  25  deep,  is 
composed  of  a  vast  gallery  occupying  the  whole  front,  and  of 
three  compartments  of  different  sizes,  a  large  central  chamber 
and  two  small  ones  at  the  sides.  The  front  gallery  is  pierced 
with  five  apertures,  supported  by  six  pillars  of  6  feet  9  inches  by 
3  feet  7  inches  thick.  The  two  corner  pillars  were  covered  with 
katunes,  and  the  other  four  with  bas-reliefs.  No  sanctuary  is 
found  in  the  building  known  as  the  Temple  of  Inscriptions,  but 
both  the  gallery  and  the  central  room  have  flagstones  covered 
with  inscriptions.  Two  panels  enclosed  in  the  wall  of  the  gallery 
measure  1 3  feet  wide  by  7  feet  8  inches  high,  one  in  the  central 
chamber  is  over  7  feet  by  6  feet.  Amidst  the  katunes  of  this 
panel  Waldeck  has  seen  fit  to  place  three  or  four  elephants. 
What  end  did  he  propose  to  himself  in  giving  this  fictitious 
representation  ?  Presumably  to  give  a  prehistoric  origin  to  these 
ruins,  since  it  is  an  ascertained  fact  that  elephants  in  a  fossil  state 


Palenque.     Temples.  249 

only  have  been  found  on  the  American  continent.  It  is  need- 
less to  add  that  neither  Catherwood,  who  drew  these  inscriptions 
most  minutely,  nor  myself  who  brought  impressions  of  them 
away,  nor  living  man,  ever  saw  these  elephants  and  their  fine 
trunks. 

But  such  is  the  mischief  engendered  by  preconceived  opinions. 
With  some  writers  it  would  seem  that  to  give  a  recent  date  to 
these  monuments  would  deprive  them  of  all  interest.  It  would 
have  been  fortunate  had  explorers  been  imbued  with  fewer 
prejudices  and  gifted  with  a  little  more  common  sense,  for  then 
we  should  have  known  the  truth  with  regard  to  these  ruins  long 
since.  Of  all  the  buildings  the  temple  was  the  best  preserved,  as 
seen  in  every  detail.  The  floor,  which  in  the  palace  is  but  a  layer 
of  plaster,  is  laid  down  here  with  beautiful  slabs  9  feet  9  inches  on 
one  side  by  5  feet  by  7  inches  thick. 

The  roof  is  unfortunately  in  a  very  ruinous  state,  and  the 
dense  vegetation  which  covers  it  prevents  seeing  anything  of 
the  large  figures  which  presumably  occupied  its  surface ;  even 
a  photograph  is  difficult  to  get,  for  want  of  sufficient  space,  and 
the  one  we  give  is  not  a  success. 

Three  other  temples  are  found  on  a  plateau,  some  200  yards 
south-east  of  the  palace  at  the  foot  of  Cerro  Alto.  First  in 
order  is  a  small  temple  of  the  Sun,  in  a  perfect  state  of  preser- 
vation;  the  front  measures  38  feet  by  27  feet  deep.  The 
pilasters,  the  roof,  and  superstructure,  were  all  covered  with 
sculptures  and  complicated  decorations.  Any  one  who  is 
acquainted  with  sacred  Japanese  architecture  would  be  struck 
with  the  resemblance  of  this  temple  to  a  Japanese  sanctuary ; 
and  this  is  very  clearly  seen  in  our  cut.  How  is  this  to  be 
explained  ?  A  theory  might  be  started  with  respect  to  the 
probable  Asiatic  origin  of  the  Toltec  tribes ;  of  the  influence 
of  a  Japanese  civilisation,  through  the  steady  traffic  they  formerly 


2  so 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


TEMri.E  OF  THE  SUN,  PALENQUE. 


carried  on,  on  the  coast  north-west  of  America,  as  also  by 
fortuitous  immigrations  resulting  from  shipwrecks.  In  the 
present   day,  the   average   of   Japanese    vessels  shipwrecked   on 


Palenque.     Temples. 


2=;i 


the  Californian  coast  is  only  two  a  year.  However  it  may  be, 
we  will  for  the  present  leave  to  others  the  task  of  elucidating 
the  question  of  origin. 

The  interior  of  the  temple  is  a  large  room,  receiving  its  light 

through  three  aper- 

_____  _^ 


tures  in  the  fa9ade  ; 
the  end  is  occupied 
by  a  sanctuary,  and 
each  side  by  a  small 
dark  room.  The 
sanctuary  is  a  kind 
of  oblong  taber- 
nacle, crowned  with 
a  richly  decorated 
frieze  and  stuccoed 
mouldino^s.  Two 
pilasters  supported 
the  roof,  and  for- 
merly were  covered 
with  inscriptions  or 
sculptured  slabs  re- 
presenting various 
subjects  ;  these 
Bags  have  been 
broken  or  taken 
away,  and  not  one 
remains  in  loco. 

Those  which  were  in  the  Temple  of  the  Cross  No.  i,  have 
already  been  described  and  a  drawing  given.  The  end  of  the 
sanctuary  is  occupied  by  three  slabs  in  juxtaposition,  with 
sculptures  of  a  religious  character ;  in  the  central  portion  or 
tablet    is    a  hideous  face,  with   protruding  tongue,  identical  with 


JAPANESE   TEMPLE. 


252  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


that  found  on  the  Aztec  calendar  in  Mexico,  known  as  the 
Tablet  of  the  Sun.  This  symbolical  figure  is  found  also  at 
Tikal  carved  in  wood. 

In  our  cut  of  the  Temple  of  the  Cross  No.  2,  three  distinct 
subjects  are  seen  :  in  the  central  slab  is  a  cross,  branching  out 
with  palms  supporting  two  figures  ;  the  body  of  the  cross,  which 
rests  on  a  hideous  head,  is  sculptured  in  the  centre,  and  at  the 
upper  end  are  two  human  figures,  crowned  by  a  symbolic  bird 
having  a  long  tail  and  eagle  claws.  The  left  slab  represents  a 
man  richly  habited,  with  collar,  medallion,  girdle,  and  greaves  ; 
the  right  slab  a  woman,  to  judge  from  her  size,  long  plait  of  hair, 
and  peculiar  clothing.  This  female  is  borne  on  palms  having  the 
very  well-preserved  outline  of  human  heads.  Both  the  male  and 
female  seem  to  stand  before  the  symbolic  bird  offering  presents, 
the  nature  of  which  it  is  not  easy  to  specify.  To  the  rear  of 
each  device  is  an  inscription  of  sixty-eight  characters,  doubtless 
explanatory  of  the  ceremony  the  whole  sculpture  represents,  but 
which  no  one  has  yet  been  able  to  read. 

We  are  of  opinion  that  the  Temple  of  the  Cross  No.  i  was  a 
sanctuary  consecrated  to  Tlaloc  and  Quetzalcoatl,  and  that  the 
altar  in  the  same  Temple  No.  2  was  dedicated  to  Tlaloc  ;  our 
only  ground  for  this  belief,  however,  is  the  cross,  which  we  know 
was  a  later  symbolic  personification  of  the  god  of  rain  ;  but  we  will 
leave  this  question  until  we  come  to  Lorillard,  where  monuments 
of  the  same  kind,  and  the  authority  of  ancient  writers,  will  furnish 
data  to  strengthen  our  theory.  It  may  not  be  irrelevant  to  add 
that  neither  temples  nor  palaces  were  provided  with  doors,  and 
that  stuff  or  matting  curtains  were  used  for  all  apertures,  indicated 
by  the  large  and  small  rings  fixed  on  the  pilasters  on  each  side  of 
the  entrances,  and  the  whole  length  of  the  inner  cornice.  We  know 
that  neither  the  Toltecs  nor  Aztecs  had  doors  to  their  houses, 
which  seems  to  show  great  respect  for  property,  or  as  Clavigero 


Palenque.     Temples. 


253 


puts  it,  "  the  severity  of  the  laws  was  a  powerful  preservative." 
What  he  says  of  Mexico  is  equally  applicable  to  Palenque  : 
"  Houses  had  no  doors,  for  they  deemed  that  dwellings  were 
sufficiently  guarded  by  the  stringency  of  the  laws ;  and  the  people, 
not  to  be  overlooked  by  their  neighbours,  had  curtains  to  all  the 
openings,  while  resounding  pottery,  or  some  other  rattling  object, 
was  suspended  over  the  entrance  to  warn  the  inmates  whenever  a 


SCULPTURED   SLABS  OF   SANCTUARY,  IN    THE   TEMPLES   OF   PALENQUE. 


Stranger  raised-  the  curtain  to  pass  into  the  house.  No  one  was 
allowed  admittance  who  had  not  the  owner's  full  permission  to  do 
so,  unless  the  degree  of  relationship  or  necessity  justified  the 
liberty."  '" 

Notwithstanding  the  deplorable  circumstances  in  which  I 
had  to  work,  I  was  able  to  take  more  than  325  square  feet 
of  impressions  ;   and  here  I   take  much  pleasure  in  recording  the 


*  Clavigero,  "  Hist.  Antig.  de  Mejico  y  de  su  Conquista,"  tome  l  lib.  vii.  p.  245. 


2  54  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

debt  of  gratitude  I  owe  Mr.  de  Laval  for  his  admirable  invention. 
which  by  means  of  paper  instead  of  plaster  makes  the  taking  of 
impressions  in  distant  countries  comparatively  easy,  when  the 
difficulty  of  transport  and  the  expense  of  plaster  would,  in  our 
case,  have  placed  the  reproduction  of  reliefs  and  inscriptions 
entirely  beyond  our  power.  As  it  was,  my  impressions,  which, 
had  I  used  plaster,  would  have  weighed  at  least  30,000  lb.,  only 
weighed  500  lb.  ;  but  even  so,  the  taking  of  impressions  is  not  so 
easily  effected  as  may  be  imagined,  especially  in  a  clamp  region 
where  the  utmost  care  was  required  to  reproduce  faithfully  the 
delicate,  faint,  and  defaced  reliefs  on  these  old  slabs.  It  would 
be  impossible  to  give  an  idea  of  the  immense  and  minute  brush- 
work  which  was  required  to  cover  325  feet  square  of  paper  six- 
sheets  deep. 

Furthermore,  the  reliefs  were  only  reached  by  a  shaky 
scaffolding  of  wet  twigs  ;  next  came  the  drying  process  round 
huge  fires  to  secure  the  moulds  against  the  rain  getting  into 
them,  and  the  stowing  them  speedily  away  before  they  got 
spoiled.  Well,  but  we  had  every  reason  to  be  satisfied  with 
our  work  ;  the  precious  squeezes  had  been  satisfactorily  stored  up 
in  the  galleries  of  the  palace,  when,  on  the  night  of  January  26th, 
a  night  I  shall  never  forget,  a  hideous  smell  of  burning  startled 
us  out  of  our  sleep  to  witness  the  flames  which  were  consuming 
my  mouldings,  the  result,  too,  of  three  weeks'  hard  labour,  now- 
fast  vanishing  into  smoke.  To  snatch  the  burning  rolls  and 
throw  them  into  the  yard,  where  the  Indians  were  ready  to  deluge 
them  with  water,  was  the  work  of  a  moment,  but,  alas  !  to  no 
purpose  ;  the  mischief  was  irretrievable,  and  we  had  to  begin  all 
over  again.  Whether  done  by  accident  or  of  malice  prepense, 
it  was  idle  to  inquire  ;  we  set  to  work  again  with  renewed  ardour, 
and  after  ten  days  of  incessant  labour  we  brought  out  copies  finer 
than  the  first,  and  these  are  now  to  be  found  in  the  Trocadero. 


PaLEN(.)UI;.       Tl'-MI'LES. 


257 


Our  labours  in  the  palace  did  not  prevent  our  making  explora- 
tions on  the  hill  or  mountain.  We  had  spied  to  the  north  of  the 
palace,  some  812  feet  distant,  a  group  of  four  houses,  or  small 
palaces,  the  ruins  of  which  appeared  sufficiently  interesting  to  be 
reproduced,  which  I  did,  after  having  had  the  southern  portion 
cleared  of  its  luxuriant  vegetation,  when  I  found  that  the  whole 
length  of  the  northern  side  was  occupied  by  a  dead  wall,  without 


RUINS   TO   THE   NORTH  OF   THE   PALACE. 


apertures  or  fronts  of  any  kind,  facing  the  palace  and  overlooking 
a  deep  precipice.  These  structures,  like  those  we  discovered 
subsequently,  were  all  built  on  the  same  plan,  but  in  various 
sizes  and  dimensions.  The  inner  vault  of  the  left  building, 
however,  is  ornamented  with  round  lines  forming  pretty  devices, 
unlike  the  others,  which  are  quite  plain.  The  pyramids  on  which 
these  structures  were  reared  had  three  stories  supported  by 
perpendicular  walls.  To  this  group  of  buildings  belonged  a 
small   sanctuary   or  chapel  ;   notwithstanding   its  dilapidated    con- 


258  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

dition  it  deserves  mention  because  of  some  decorative  remains, 
which  give  a  good  Idea  of  what  must  have  been  Its  profuse 
ornamentation. 

After  our  visit  to  the  Lion's  Temple,  now  In  a  deplorable 
state  of  dilapidation,  we  crossed  the  high-banked  river  and 
reached  a  high  level  at  the  base  of  Cerro  Alto,  where  we  came 
upon  a  cluster  of  buildings  composed  of  diminutive  compart- 
ments which  were  used  as  tombs  ;  two  more  were  found  by  us 
In  some  other  buildings  to  the  north  of  the  palace.  These 
small  monuments  were  constructed  with  uncemented  stones, 
and  were  In  good  preservation.  The  tombs  measured  6  feet 
7  inches  by  i  foot  8  Inches  to  i  foot  9  Inches  wide ;  they 
occupied  the  centre  of  the  rooms  and  were  built  with  flagstones  ; 
the  bodies  were  found  with  two  large  flat-bottomed  vases, 
ornamented  with  a  little  sunk  flower.  Identical  with  those  found 
at  Teotlhuacan. 

AmonQf  the  Innumerable  ruins  we  discovered  were  five 
temples  ;  one,  to  judge  from  the  height  of  the  pyramid,  which 
was  divided  Into  four  stories,  and  Its  noble  remains  must  have 
been  Important.  As  we  descend  the  river  to  the  north-west, 
pyramids,  ruined  buildings,  groups  of  low  houses,  temples,  and 
palaces,  are  found  occupying  the  slopes  of  the  Cordilleras, 
from  the  crest  of  the  lesser  chain  to  their  base.  The  build- 
ings are  found  on  the  high  level  and  temples  on  eminences, 
followed  by  a  vast  space  apparently  unoccupied,  perhaps  the 
site  of  ancient  gardens.  To  form  an  accurate  Idea  of  the  plan 
of  the  city  would  necessitate  the  felling  of  forest  over  several 
square  miles,  an  undertaking  not  to  be  thought  of  in  our  case. 
Bridges  and  roads  connected  the  various  edifices ;  some  of 
these  roads  or  streets  measure  several  hundred  yards,  and  I 
found  one  bridge  of  32  feet  square  with  one  single  opening, 
3   feet   6   Inches   by   9  feet   9   Inches  deep.     All  were  built  with 


Palenque.     Temples.  259 


uncementecl  stones.  Now  most  bridges  have  crumbled  away, 
the  torrents  they  spanned  arc  blocked  up,  and  the  waters  are 
drained  through  beds  they  have  hewn  for  themselves,  running 
over  the  structures  and  depositing  on  their  facades  stalactites 
which  give   them   a  strange  appearance. 

The  explorer  who  sees  the  complete  desolation  of  this  ancient 
city  must  bear  in  mind,  that  in  a  tropical  region  excessively  hot 
and  clamp  a  long  time  is  not  necessary  to  destroy  even  struc- 
tures of  solid  stone,  in  order  to  avoid  attributing  great  antiquity 
to  these  ruins.  Now  the  ornamentation,  both  in  the  palaces  of 
Palenque,  on  the  upper  part  of  friezes,  or  the  dress  of  figures, 
consists  of  small  rolls  or  round  lines  of  plaster,  studded  with 
diminutive  spheres  or  dots,  which,  as  we  explained  before, 
were  added  at  the  very  last,  and  is  clearly  seen  in  our 
restoration.  That  ornamentation  at  once  so  fragile  could  not 
last  many  hundred  years  in  such  surroundings,  is  proved  by 
the  fact  that  on  the  least  touch  round  lines  and  dots  come 
down,  and  that  the  ground  is  strewn  with  them.  If  we 
examine  the  stairways,  which  on  both  sides  of  the  courtyard 
of  the  palace  connected  the  two  edifices,  we  shall  find  the 
steps  unworn,  the  stairs  new  ;  yet  communication  must  have 
been  incessant,  and  if  for  long  ages  thousands  of  people 
descended  and  ascended  these  stairs,  would  not  the  wear  and 
tear  be   traceable  ? 

The  stairs  of  our  public  buildings  are  worn  away  in  no 
time  ;  if  we  find  them  entire  at  Palenque,  it  is  a  proof  that 
they  were  not  long  trodden.  Nor  is  this  all.  The  roofs,  the 
walls  and  courts  of  the  palaces  are  so  well  hidden  under  the 
thick  vegetation  which  covers  them,  that  a  stranger  might  pass 
a  few  yards  distant  and  never  suspect  their  presence.  The 
size  of  the  trees  growing  between  and  over  these  structures 
has   been   adduced   as   a   conclusive   proof    of    the   age   of    these 

s  2 


26o  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

monuments.  Waldeck  calculated  their  age  at  2,000  years  and 
more  ;  Mr.  Lorainzar  computed  that  these  monuments  must  be 
1,700  years  old,  because  he  found  a  mahogany  table  made  of 
one  single  piece  from  a  tree  in  these  ruins.  His  reasoning  was 
based  on  the  erroneous  notion  that  a  concentric  circle  repre- 
sents one  year,  whereas  I  ascertained  that  in  a  tropical  country 
nature  never  rests  ;  for  chancing  to  cut  a  twig  some  eighteen 
months  old,  I  counted  no  less  than  eighteen  concentric  circles. 
To  assure  myself  that  this  was  not  an  isolated  fact,  I  cut 
branches  and  trees  of  every  size  and  description,  when  the 
same  phenomenon  occurred  in  exactly  the  same  proportions. 
More  than  this:  in  my  first  expedition  to  Palenque  in  1859,  I 
had  the  eastern  side  of  the  palace  cleared  of  its  dense  vegeta- 
tion to  secure  a  good  photograph.  Consequently  the  trees 
that  have  grown  since  cannot  be  more  than  twenty-two  years 
old ;  now  one  of  the  cuttinQ^s  measuring-  some  two  feet  in 
diameter,  had  upwards  of  230  concentric  circles ;  that  is  at 
the  rate  of  one  in  a  month,  or  even  less  ;  it  follows  that  the 
seventeen  centuries  of  Mr.  Lorainzar  must  be  reduced  to  150 
or  at  most  200  years. 

Stephens  mentions  a  ceiba  twenty-two  years  old  of  6  feet 
10  inches  in  diameter,  and  I  noticed  in  Mexico  some  eucalyptus 
not  eighteen  years  old,  measuring  6  feet  9  inches  in  diameter  ; 
could  these  trees  have  only  eighteen  or  twenty  concentric 
circles  ? 

To  recapitulate,  Palenque  seems  to  us  more  modern,  as  she 
is  far  better  preserved  than  Comalcalco  ;  if  the  latter  was  in- 
habited at  the  time  of  the  Conquest  (and  we  think  we  have 
proved  it),  the  former  must  have  been  likewise.  Comalcalco  was 
a  Toltec  city  just  as  was  Palenque,  and  this  is  clearly  demonstrated 
in  the  pyramidal  form  given  to  the  basement  of  edifices,  in 
the   invariable  shape   of   the    monuments,   bearing    so    striking    a 


Palenque.      TeMI'LES. 


261 


resemblance  to  the  Toltec  calli,  in  the  fragments,  in  the  masks  of 
terra-cotta,  the  pottery,  and  the  small  figures,  facsimiles  of  those 
we  found  on  the  plateaux  ;  in  the  cultus  of  the  cross,  emblem 
of  the  Toltec  Tlaloc,  and  lastly  in  the  important  quotations  from 
Juarros  and   Diaz,   affirming  that   Palenque  was  called  Tula. 

We  shall  leave  for  the  present  this  Toltec  branch  which 
founded  Ocosingo,  Colhuacan,  and  other  cities  of  the  Uplands, 
to  visit  the  other  branch  which  settled  in  the  Yucatan  peninsula. 


STAIRCASE   INSCRIPTIONS. 


MUNICirAL    PALACE    AND    SQUARE,   MERIDA. 


CHAPTER   XV. 


YUCATAN,    MERIDA,    AND    THE    MAYA    RACE. 

Early  Account  of  Yucatan — First  Explorers  :  F.  Hernandez  de  Cordova,  Juan  de 
Grijalva — Cortez — Railroad — Henequen  Estate — Merida — Historical  Jottings 
— Destruction  of  all  the  Documents  by  the  Historian  Landa — Municipal  Palace 
— Cathedral — The  Conqueror's  House — Private  Houses — Market  Place — -Maya 
Race— Types — Manners  and  Customs  of  the  Mayas — Deformation  and 
'J'attooing— Meztizas — Dwellings — Suburbs. 


We  will  next  proceed  to  the  study  of  the  Toltec  branch  which 
penetrated  the  Yucatan  peninsula  by  Patonchan,  and  from  which 
the  reigning  family  of  the  Cocomes  were  descended. 

Thf;  main  harbour  on  the   north-east  coast  was  formerly  Sisal, 


Yucatan,  Mkrida,  and  the  Mava  Race.  263 

but  the  requirements  of  an  increasing  trade  have  moved  it  on 
to  Progreso,  where  we  cast  anchor  in  a  gale  of  wind  which 
obhged  us  to  remain  five  or  six  miles  outside,  to  keep  clear 
of  the  shoals  which  make  this  coast  dangerous.  We  land 
with  considerable  difficulty  at  last,  and  are  not  sorry  to  get 
rid  of  the  unpleasant  sensation  known  as  sea-sickness.  The 
peninsula  has  no  rivers  and  no  water,  and  is  of  calcareous 
formation  ;  flat  and  barren  to  the  north,  where  the  soil  is  but 
few  inches  deep  ;  more  hilly  and  productive  towards  the  centre, 
because  of  its  older  formation  ;  it  rises  to  the  south  to  the 
Sierra   Madre,   which   runs   through   Central   America. 

The  direction  of  Yucatan  is  from  north  to  south,  between 
the  eighth  and  twelfth  degree  longitude  east  of  Mexico,  and 
between  the  eighteenth  and  twenty- second  degree  of  latitude. 
The  first  to  mention  it  is  Columbus,  who,  on  July  30th,  1502, 
finding  himself  at  Pine  Island,  saw  a  large  barque  manned 
by  twenty-four  rowers,  having  a  cacique  and  family  on 
board,  dressed  in  the  costume  known  since  as  Yucatec ;  the 
boat  was  freighted  with  cacao,  tortillas,  and  a  beverage 
made  of  Indian  corn,  wooden  swords  with  blades  of  obsidian, 
copper  axes,  and  cotton  tissues  as  soft  as  silk,  dyed  in  brilliant 
hues. 

A  reasonable  doubt  may  be  entertained  as  to  this  canoe,  said 
to  have  measured  8  feet  wide,  having  come  from  Yucatan,  a 
country  by  its  nature  exceedingly  dry,  arid,  stony,  and  without 
rivers,  circumstances  hardly  favourable  to  making  sailors  of  its 
inhabitants ;  moreover,  copper  axes  and  obsidian  blades  were 
scarce  among  the  Mayas,  and  the  Spaniards,  under  Grijalva, 
never  met  them  until  they  reached  Tabasco."  It  seems,  there- 
fore,  probable,    that    the    canoe    came    from    Tabasco,    a    region 

*  There  were  fewer  in  Yucatan,  where  they  were  imported. 


264 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


civilised  like  Yucatan,  intersected  by  large  rivers,  clad  with 
an  exuberant  vegetation,  noble  cedar  and  mahogany  trees, 
from  which  to  build  capacious  boats.  As  for  the  dress,  it  is 
nearly  the  same  as  that  worn  by  the  Mayas  ;  but  what  is 
even    more    significant    is    that    cocoa    is    one  of  the    chief    pro- 


s'-' 


<w 


JOURNEY 

TO  YUCATAN 

and  to   llie  coiinir}'of 

THE  LACANDONS 

byD.Charnay 

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ScaJc  of  Ensriish  Miles 

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MERIDA«5-='"-a-"-«-l^'^'^A'- 
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^'"'m    ACANCEH      "--M!!"' 

KABAH  "^       >^  CHICHEN 

I      Itxhnie  X.^-^ 

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ductions  of  Tabasco,  and  is  only  known  as  an  importation  in 
Yucatan,'"  except  indeed  towards  Patonchan,  where,  at  the  time 
of  the  Conquest,  the  vegetation  was  as  vigorous,  and  cacao 
as    extensively    cultivated    as    in  Tabasco.     The   Maya  language 


*  It  was  only  cultivated  towards  15acalar  lagoon,  nearly  loo  leagues  from  the 
north  coast. 


Yucatan,  Mkkida,  and  tiik  Mava  Race.  265 


was  common  to  both  districts.  Had  Columbus  followed  the 
canoe,  he  would  have  added  to  his  own  the  glory  Cortez 
achieved  later ;  at  all  events  he  had  been  the  first  to  discover 
the  central   regions  of  America. 

The  first  to  visit  Yucatan  was  Vincente  Yanez  Pinzon,  who 
with  Diaz  Solis,  in  1505,  coasted  the  eastern  side,  without, 
however,  identifying  it.  In  151 1,  Valdivia  was  wrecked  on 
the  Alacranes  reefs  on  his  way  to  Cuba ;  he  and  his  crew  effected 
a  landing,  when  the  only  survivors  of  the  ill-usage  of  the  natives 
were  Gonzalo  Guerrero  and  Geronimo  de  Aguilar,  of  whom 
I  shall  speak  later.  In  1517,  Cordova  sailed  along  the 
northern  coast,  where  he  observed  great  cities  and  high  pyra- 
mids ;  he  landed  at  Campeche,  and  saw  stately  temples,  having 
serpentine  walls  in  relief,  similar  to  that  of  the  great  temple 
in  Mexico,  dedicated  to  Cukulcan  (Ouetzalcoatl).  He  landed 
at  Patonchan  or  Champeton,  when  the  natives  massacred  fifty- 
seven  of  his  companions.  It  would  seem  strange  that  Cortez, 
in  all  his  encounters  with  the  natives  of  the  Uplands,  should 
have  had  so  few  casualties,  were  it  not  known  that  they  strove 
to  take  their  enemies  alive  that  they  might  offer  them  on  the 
altar  of  their  deities.  To  this  prevailing  custom  Cortez  twice 
owed  his  life  during  the  siege  of  Mexico,  but  as  he  was  being 
led  away  to  be  sacrificed  to  their  war-god  he  was  both  times 
rescued  by  his  companions. 

In  Yucatan  and  Tabasco,  where  Aztec  influence  was  of 
recent  date,  the  introduction  of  human  sacrifice  comparatively 
new,  the  natives  killed  rather  than  captured  their  enemies  ;  and 
this  explains  the  great  losses  sustained  by  the  Spaniards 
in  the  peninsula,  and  is  another  proof  of  Toltec  teachings  in 
these  districts. 

In  15 18,  Grijalva  landed  at  Cozumel,  when  he  perceived 
on   the  opposite   coast   a  city  supposed  to   be   Tuloom-Pamal   or 


266  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World, 

Paamul ;  he  followed  the  route  of  his  predecessor  and  halted 
in  the  Islands  of  Sacrificios  and  Uluo,  opposite  the  site  of 
future  Vera  Cruz;  and  lastly  Cortez,  who,  in  15 19,  found  here 
Aguilar  and  further  on  in  Tabasco  Marina. 

The  name  of  Yucatan  is  variously  derived  from  Chac- 
nuitan ;  Tcctecan,  tectctaii,  "we  don't  understand,"  from  a 
misunderstanding  by  the  Spaniards  when  the  natives  were 
questioned  about  the  name  of  their  country  ;  or  from  Ytica- 
Tan,  "  land  of  yuca,"  not  to  be  confounded  with  the  yuca 
of  our  gardens,  for  the  former  yielded  a  substance  out  of 
which  the  Spaniards  made  cazabe,  bread;  and  Ciu-TIian,  "say 
yourself,"  or,  according  to  Landa,  Ulmnil  y  del  Ce/i,  "  land 
of  turkeys  and  deer."  Another  authority,  Ramesal,  believes 
the  name  to  be  derived  from  Tectetan-Ylatli  and  Teloquitan  ;  * 
Cogolludo  adopts  these  various  appellations,  remarking  that 
as  the  country  was  named  after  its  chief  city,  it  differed  at 
each  successive  epoch,  being  in  ancient  times  Mayapan,  but  in 
the  time  of  the  writer  Campeche.  Ternaux-Compans  declares 
that  from  the  fall  of  Mayapan  to  the  coming  of  the  Spaniards, 
the  country  had  no  general  name,  but  was  severally  called 
after  each  province,  as  district  of  Choaca,  Bakhalal,  Cam- 
peche, etc.  ;  but  there  is  little  doubt  that  the  name  of 
Yucatan,  at  the  coming  of  Europeans  and  afterwards,  was 
Maya.  However  that  may  be,  we  will  turn  to  the  monu- 
ments, which  afford  a  far  surer  guide  whereon  to  construct  a 
history  of  this  country  so  rich  in  works  of  "  los  antiguos." 

Progreso  is  a  miserable  hamlet  surrounded  by  low-lying 
swamps  ;  here  the  luggage  is  examined,  but  in  our  case  only 
pi'o  forma,  and  we  are  glad  to  resume  our  seats  and  to 
steam    out    of    this     unhealthy    zone,    although     the    country    we 


*  Landa,  "  Relacion  dc  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan,"  sec.  2. 


I  < 


Yucatan,  Merida,  and  the  Mava   Ry\cE.  269 

traverse,  on  which  nothing  grows  save  brambles  and  brush- 
wood, is  no  less  flat  or  monotonous.  We  come  presently  to 
immense  estates  of  kenequcn,  a  kind  of  agave,  having  long 
narrow  leaves,  yielding  a  solid  shining  thread,  which  is  hardly 
known  out  of  American  markets  ;  patches  of  verdure,  bananas, 
palm-trees,  and  maritime  pines,  betray  now  and  again  a  private 
residence,  while  smoking  mills  show  the  factories  where  the 
henequen  is  being  prepared  ready  for  exportation. 

Were  it  not  for  the  mysterious  spirit  of  "  los  antiguos," 
which  seems  to  fill  the  whole  country,  the  landscape  to  a 
less  enthusiastic  explorer  must  appear  dreary  and  melancholy 
in  the  extreme.  We  pass  eminences  on  our  right  on  which 
once  stood  noble  temples ;  these  remains  carry  me  back  to 
the  time  when  I  first  visited  these  parts,  and  when  these  ruins 
fixed  my  resolve  to  make  archaeology  the  business  of  my  life. 
Next  came  a  few  straggling  hamlets  ;  groups  of  dark  women 
in  short  petticoats,  and  naked  urchins,  gaze  on  us  with 
wondering  eyes  as  they  stand  at  the  entrance  of  their  huts 
while  we  speed  along.  We  reach  Merida  after  a  run  of  three 
hours  over  a  distance  of  ten  leagues,  where  we  learn  that  no 
hotel  or  house  is  to  be  found,  and  it  is  only  after  searching 
the  whole  place  that  we  can  at  last  secure  a  room  of  some 
fifteen  feet  square,  in  which  my  two  companions  and  myself 
have  to  setde  down.  There  is  but  one  atrociously  bad 
restaurant  where  to  get  any  kind  of  food  ;  our  thoughts,  how- 
ever, are  taken  up  with  exploring  the  ruins  rather  than  with 
a  good  inaitre  d' hotel ;  we  find,  besides,  a  small  Anglo- 
American  colony,  and  in  their  midst  our  abominable  fare  is 
soon  forgotten. 

Francisco  de  Montejo,  who  founded  Merida,  had  occupied 
Chichen  in  1527,  but  had  been  compelled  to  abandon  it  and 
seek  reinforcements  in   Mexico.     On  his  return  he  was  enabled, 


270  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

through  a  traitorous  cacique,  to  establish  himself  here,  and  built 
Merida  in  1542.  The  conquest  of  Yucatan  was  longer  and 
beset  with  greater  difficulties  than  that  of  Mexico ;  here  the 
Spaniards  were  continually  threatened  by  a  warlike  population, 
ever  on  the  alert  to  raise  the  standard  of  rebellion.  The  history 
of  this  people  can  only  be  read  on  the  monuments  they  have 
left,  which  have  given  rise  to  so  many  divergent  hypotheses. 
Yet  documents  were  not  wanting,  and  had  the  religious  zeal 
of  the  men  of  that  time  been  less  ill-judged,  they  would  have 
found  in  the  various  and  multiform  manuscripts,  in  the  charts 
or  maps,  in  the  idols,  in  the  pottery  and  living  traditions, 
ample  and  reliable  materials  from  which  to  write  an  exhaustive 
history  of  the  Maya  civilisation.  But  the  Spaniards  were  more 
careful  to  demolish  than  to  preserve,  Zumarraga,  Bishop  of 
Mexico,  destroyed  all  the  Aztec  annals  he  could  lay  his  hand 
upon,  and  Landa,  Bishop  of  Merida,  made  an  auto-da-fe  of 
all  the  monuments  he  could  collect,  having  done  which,  he 
set  himself  to  writing  his  history,  "  De  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan."  ^'' 
All  there  now  remains  for  us  are  mere  gleanings,  the 
interpretation  of  certain  passages  in  this  very  Landa,  in  Cogolludo 
and  Herrera,  and  above  all  by  a  careful  comparison  between 
these  monuments  and  bas-reliefs  with  those  we  already  know  ;  for 
with  their  help  only  can  we  hope  to  reconstruct  a  past  which 
becomes  more  familiar  the  more  it  is  studied.  These  monuments 
have   been    endowed   with    fabulous    antiquity ;     whereas,    on    the 

*  From  data  obtained  from  Pablo  Moreno,  and  a  letter  of  the  Jesuit  Don 
Domingo,  dated  1805,  we  can  give  the  following  list  of  objects  destroyed  by  Landa  : 
5,000  idols  of  various  form  and  dimensions  ; 
13  huge  stones,  which  were  used  as  altars; 
22  smaller,  of  various  shapes; 
27  manuscripts  on  deer  skins  ; 
197  of  all  shapes  and  sizes. 
To  this  should  be  added  the  auto-da-fe  at  Mani,  in  which  numerous  manuscripts 
were  consumed.     Cogolkido,  tome  i.  apijendix  to  book  iv.  p.  479.    Campeclie,  1842. 


Yucatan,  Merida,  and  the  Maya  Race.  271 

strength  of  my  explorations,  I  assert  that  they  are  comparatively 
recent. 

Merida  stands  on  the  site  of  ancient  Ti-hoo  or  T-Jioo,  one 
of  the  chief  cities  of  the  peninsula ;  but  nothing  positive  is 
known,  and  tradition  is  almost  silent  respecting  it.  If  we  are 
to  believe  the  Spaniards,  it  had  long  been  abandoned  on  their 
arrival  ;  but  this  is  not  borne  out  by  facts,  for  although  they 
beheld  a  dense  vegetation  amidst  the  pyramids,  the  edifices 
on  their  summits  were  entire  ;  *  moreover,  Montejo  was  able 
to  quarter  his  troops  here,  as  well  as  the  Indian  contingent 
from  Mani.  Furthermore,  Eligio  Ancona,  the  modern  Yucatec 
historian,  describes  a  celebrated  sanctuary  known  as  H-CImn- 
Caan,  "  The  centre  and  foundation  of  heaven,"  which  was 
the  object  of  great  veneration  ;  it  follows  therefore  that  its 
imposing  ceremonies  were  presided  over  by  revered  and  powerful 
priests,  that  the  temples  and  palaces  in  Merida  were  standing 
after  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,!  although  not  in  the  vast 
proportions  assigned  to  them  by  the  Abbe  Brasseur,  whose  lively 
imagination  is  apt  to  lead  him  astray. 

Merida  was  built  with  the  materials  of  the  Indian  city, 
and  like  all  the  Spanish  places  of  the  New  World,  is  but  a 
huge  chess-board,  with  streets  running  at  right  angles,  con- 
sisting of  square  blocks  of  buildings.  The  centre  is  occupied 
by  a  large  plaza,  having  a  waterless  fountain  and  gardens, 
the  flowers  of  which  are  perishing  for  want  of  water ;  as  for 
the  young  trees  planted  about,  they  doubtless  will  afford  shade 
to    future   generations ;    for  the    present   the  glare    of  this    open 

*  See  Landa,  "  Relacion  de  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan,"  sec.  42,  p.  333  and  following. 

t  Lorenzo  Bienvenida,  in  a  letter  to  the  King  of  Spain  (1548),  says  that  the 
monuments  were  deserted  and  the  pyramids  covered  with  large  trees,  and  that  the 
natives  of  the  place  lived  in  straw  huts.  The  city,  therefore,  had  been  destroyed  a 
few  years  before,  as  Mayapan  had  been,  of  which  no  trace  was  visible,  whereas  the 
monuments  at  T-hoo  were  entire,  but  its  history  has  been  lost. 


272 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


space    is    intolerable.     When     I    visited    it    some    twenty    years 

ago,    if   not    so    symmetrical    it   was    certainly   more   picturesque. 

In   the  plaza  are  found   the   municipal   palace  and   the  cathedral, 

of  monumental  pro- 

r^~\ —  ZIm  ^^""^^^H      portions  for  a  place 

of  30,000  souls  ;   it 
numbered,      pro- 
bably,    only     the 
third  of  this    when 
it  was  built  in  1598. 
Its  erection  cost  the 
pious     Meridans 
^60,000,      equiva- 
lent at  the  present 
day  to  fifteen  times 
that  sum,  but  it  is 
doubtful     if     even 
with      its     greater 
population  so  large 
a    sum    could    now 
be    raised.      The 
front,  1 79  feet  wide, 
is    occupied    by    a 
central  pavilion   in 
which    the    princi- 
pal entrance  inter- 
venes, ornamented 
by    an     indifferent 
Corinthian    portico,   over  which,  at   a  height  of  some  97   feet,  a 
great  vaulted  arch  sui^ports  an  elegant  gallery  ;   on  each  side  of 
the  pavilion  are  two  steeples  with  a  number  of  galleries  narrow- 
ing   in     ui)ward    succession,     forming    with    their    balustrades    a 


{-^..i  AM.C.;gA.  fe71<=g;=^  iiiiillimttf.fril 


MONTRJO'S   HOUSE,  MERIDA. 


IIIIH 


in![|i|iiiiNii|iiii{iiiiiiiiiin 


Yucatan,  Merida,  and  the  Maya  Race.  275 


pleasing  contrast  to  the  plain  facade.  The  interior  of  the 
church,  289  feet  long,  is  imposing  ;  it  consists  of  three  naves 
with  round  arches,  supported  by  twelve  immense  columns, 
and  twenty  of  like  dimensions  imbedded  in  the  walls.  Small 
chapels  run  along  the  sides,  and  the  structure  altogether 
bears  the  impress  of  solidity  which  is  so  conspicuous  a  feature 
of  the  conquerors'  work.  To  the  south  of  the  square  stands 
Montejo's  house,  bearing  the  date  of  1541  ;  it  is  tlie  oldest 
in  Merida,  and  an  interesting  specimen  of  that  epoch.  It 
may  be  worthy  of  mention  that  the  sculptures  in  this  house 
are  as  defaced  as  those  of  the  Indian  monuments,  which 
seems  to  indicate  similarity  of  date.  The  pillars  on  each  side 
of  the  entrance  bear  aloft  two  Spanish  soldiers,  whilst  on  the 
first  floor,  by  the  window,  knights  armed  cap-a-pie  are  standing 
on  two  recumbent  Indians,  personating  the  subjugation  of  the 
race.  The  facade  with  its  columns,  statues,  arabesques,  and 
shields,  is  a  fair  specimen  of  American  Renaissance  ;  but  if 
the  composition  was  Spanish,  the  work,  probably,  was  due  to 
Indian  hands,  for  at  the  time  of  its  erection  the  Spaniards 
were  a  handful  of  soldiers  or  adventurers,  whose  pride  would 
not  have  suffered  them  to  do  any  manual  labour. 

Artisans  were  plentiful  among  the  Mayas,  who  have  inter- 
spersed their  country  with  so  many  remarkable  monuments, 
and  whose  building  aptitude  is  notable  even  at  the  present 
day.  Beside  these  edifices  the  town,  with  very  few  exceptions, 
is  an  assemblage  of  low  houses  having  but  the  ground  floor, 
while  all  the  windows  are  stoutly  grated  to  secure  the  inmates 
against  housebreakers.  But  the  impression  produced  by  this 
unpromising  exterior  soon  gives  place  to  agreeable  surprise 
on  being  introduced  into  spacious  apartments  opening  on  the 
"patio,"  encompassed  by  Moorish  cloisters.  The  patios  are 
planted    with    flowers,    shrubs,    and    palm-trees,    which,    towering 


276  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

above  the  terraced  roofs,  break  the  monotonous  Hnes  of  the 
town  iDanorama.  Our  cut  shows  Don  Alvaro  Peon's  house 
with   its  charming  gallery  on  the  first  floor. 

All  movement  and  life  centre  towards  the  market-place, 
where  Spaniards,  Indians,  and  Meztizos  are  seen  in  their 
picturesque  costumes  ;    sellers    are    crying   out   their   goods,   con- 


DON   ALVARO   I'EON  S   HOUSE. 


sisting  of  pottery  and  baskets,  the  facsimiles  of  those  we 
bought  at  Tula  ;  somewhat  further  we  come  across  some 
natives  bending  undc^r  heavy  loads  of  "  ramon,"  the  green 
twigs  of  a  particular  tree,  affording  the  only  forage  in  a 
country  without  grass.  liere  young  caballeros  are  stopped  by 
cumbrous  carts  taking  up  the  whole  street  with  their  enormous 
bales  of  henequcn  ;  further  on,   women  in  snowy  white  costumes 


Yucatan,  Merida,  and  the  Mava  Race. 


277 


'sit  in  long  rows,  offering  with  11  pretty  grace  their  small 
stock-in-trade  spread  before  them.  Among  this  motley  crowd 
I   spied  a  diminutive  "aguador"  looking  so  bonnie  that   I  wished 


■>5S.-*K5»5f'Sg!% 


FRUIT  SELLERS. 


to    take    his    photograph,    making   his   less   favoured    companions 
envious  thereat.* 

The    Mayas,    both    in    type    and    language,    are    unlike    both 
the   surrounding   tribes   and    those    of    the   plateaux ;    they    are 


*  The  types  we  give  are  pure  Indian  and  not  Meztizas. 


2'/S  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

said  to  be  an  ancient  race,  but  this  assumption  is  based  on 
no  positive  proof.  Cogolludo  believes  the  first  inhabitants  to 
have  come  from  Cuba ;  and  Agassiz,  who  studied  these 
tribes  in  their  respective  homes,  leans  to  the  same  opinion. 
Traditions  and  ancient  writers,  confirmed  in  modern  times  by 
Humboldt,  all  are  unanimous  in  asserting  that  this  country 
was  invaded  towards  the  end  of  the  eleventh  and  the  begin- 
ning of  the  twelfth  century  by  the  Toltecs.*  Granted  their 
building  genius,  seeing  that  both  the  architecture  and  the 
decorations  of  the  edifices  correspond  to  the  descriptions  left 
by  historians  respecting  Toltec  palaces  and  temples  of  the 
Uplands,  we  are  in  a  position  to  affirm  that  there  was  no 
other  civilisation  in  Central  America  except  the  Toltec  civilisa- 
tion, and  that  if  another  existed,  our  having  met  with  no 
trace    of   it    gives    us    the    right    to    deny    it    altogether. 

When  two  civilisations  come  in  contact,  the  outcome  is  a  mix- 
ture of  both  which  is  easy  of  recognition.  Take  as  an  instance 
India  after  the  Mohammedan  Conquest,  where  I ndo- Arabic  monu- 
ments are  notable  to  the  most  inexperienced  eye.  If,  there- 
fore, Yucatan  had  possessed  an  indigenous  civilisation,  we 
should  certainly  have  found  monuments  or  ruins  indicating  as 
much  ;  or  if  destroyed  by  time,  we  should  have  found  others 
of  a  composite  character,  showing  the  fusion  of  the  two  races, 
whereas  nothing  of  the  kind  occurs,  and  the  older  monuments, 
or  those  which  appear  so,  are  in  no  respect  different  from 
the  more  recent  or  Toltec  ones.  Consequently  the  Mayas, 
who  were  peculiarly  well  fitted  for  receiving  a  superior  culture, 
had  their  share  in  the  artistic  manifestations  to  be  met  with 
through  the  length  and  breadth  of  the  peninsula,  and  being 
the   stronger    nationality    they    opposed     a   stouter    and    longer 


*  "  Tlie  tribes  wlio  from  Aztlan  established  themselves  in  Yucatan  and  Guate- 
mala, had  reached  a  certain  degree  of  civilisation." — Humboldt. 


Yucatan,  Merida,  and  the  Maya  Race. 


279 


resistance  to  the  hated  invaders.  Even  now,  after  three 
centuries  of  degrading  oppression,  a  Maya,  or  Maya-Toltec, 
preserves  distinctive  characteristics  by  which  he  can  be  singled 
out  from  among  a  number  of  different  nationahties,  nor  would 
it    be  easy  to  find    among  the  rural  classes    of   Europe   men   of 


-vf^/'yv. 


MAYA   TYl'ES. 


a  better  build,  or  with  more  intelligent  and  open  countenances. 
Their  heads  are  round,  their  eyes  black,  their  noses  arched, 
their  ears  and  mouth  small,  they  are  deep-chested,  straight- 
jawed,  with  round  chin  and  sound  square  teeth,  their  hair  is 
black,  straight,  and  coarse,  their  complexion  reddish  brown. 
The  form  of  government  was  monarchical  and  almost  absolute; 


280  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New | World. 

below  were  the  nobles,  the  priests,  the  people,  and  the  slaves. 
Such  a  partition,  amounting  to  almost  castes,  presupposes  an 
anterior  conquest.  The  lands  were  divided  between  the  crown, 
the  nobility,  the  temples,  and  the  people.  The  division  was 
by  no  means  equal,  by  far  the  greater  proportion  being 
appropriated  by  the  king,  the  aristocracy,  and  the  temples.  The 
lands  of  the  people  were  the  common  property  of  the  community 
and  not  of  individuals.  Every  member  of  the  community  had 
a  portion  suitable  to  his  position  and  requirements,  which  he 
was  entitled  to  hold  as  long  as  he  cultivated  it.  As  the  soil 
was  very  poor,  no  plough  was  used  in  ancient  times,  nor  later 
by  the  Spaniards.  Four-fifths  of  the  land  was  suffered  to  lie 
fallow,  and  every  five  years  the  brushwood  was  cut  down  and 
burnt  to  manure  the  ground  ready  to  receive  the  Indian  corn. 
The  work  was  chiefly  done  by  men  ;  the  women  planting  the 
seed,  husking  the  corn,  and  doing  such  light  labours  as  were 
suitable  to  their  weaker  frames.  The  peasants  were  bound 
to  till  the  land  for  their  lord,  to  supply  him  with  game,  fish, 
flowers,  salt,  and  other  comforts,  and  to  accompany  him  in 
batde. 

The  campaigns  were  short,  sharp,  and  severe  ;  for  as  com- 
missariat was  unknown,  they  were  generally  decided  in  one 
engagement,  when  no  pity  was  shown  the  vanquished,  no 
quarter  given,  and  what  could  not  be  plundered  was  destroyed. 
This  explains  the  number  of  ruined  cities  which  were  rebuilt 
and  the  new  monuments  erected  after  each  war.  Diaz  remarks 
that  the  military  dress  of  the  warriors  consisted  of  a  breast- 
piece  made  of  quilted  cotton,  which  was  completely  arrow-proof, 
and  was  ado])tcd  by  the  conquerors  in  place  of  their  heavy 
steel  armour.  Their  hcLid-dress  was  a  casque  ornamented 
with  rich  feathers,  prominent  amongst  which  were  the  quetzal. 
The  rank  and  file  wore  no  clothing  except  the  viaxtli  in  battle, 


Yucatan,  Mkrida,  and  the  Maya  Race.  281 

but  by  painting  their  faces  and  bodies  in  grotesque  patterns 
of  brilliant  colours,  and  covering  their  heads  with  raw  cotton, 
they  presented  a  fierce  and  gaudy  appearance.  l-'ainting  the  face 
and  body  with  red,  black,  and  white  was  universal  ;  on  the 
return  from  an  expedition  the  warrior's  paint  was  substituted  for 
tattooing.  "  Stripes,  serpents,  animals,  and  birds,"  says  Cogolludo, 
"were  the  favourite  devices  for  this  kind  of  decoration,  according 
to  their  military  order  ;  the  warrior  being  entitled  to  a  fresh  hiero- 
glyph after  each  notable  feat  of  arms,  an  old  veteran  came  to 
have  his  whole  body  covered  with  them." 

Owing  to  the  warm  climate  the  Maya  dress  was  simple 
and  scanty  in  the  extreme.  Men  wore  almost  universally  the 
fjiaxtli  (a  long  strip  of  cotton  cloth,  wound  round  the  loins)  ; 
children  up  to  two  years  of  age  wore  no  clothes  at  all  ;  the 
baby  girls,  like  those  in  Java,  had  a  string  round  their  waist, 
from  which  depended  a  shell,  the  removal  of  which  was  looked 
upon  as  sinful.  The  dress  of  the  nobles,  both  men  and  women, 
consisted  of  loose  tunics  and  flowing  mantles  dyed  in  brilliant 
and  variegated  colours.  The  hair  was  worn  short,  cut  in  a 
fringe  on  the  forehead ;  no  beard  was  allowed,  and  the  few 
hairs  that  made  their  appearance  on  the  face  w^ere  immediately 
extracted.  Squinting  was  fashionable,  and  mothers  ensured  it 
for  their  daughters  by  suffering  a  tuft  of  hair  to  hang  over 
their  eyes.  Their  ears,  nose,  and  lips  were  adorned  with  jewels. 
Cranial  disfigurement  seems  to  have  been  confined  to  the  priests 
and  nobles.'""  According  to  Landa,t  four  or  five  days  after  birth 
the  child  was  laid  with  the  face  down  on  a  bed  of  osiers,  and 
the  head  compressed  between  two  pieces  of  wood,  one  on  the 
forehead  and  the  other  on  the  back,  the  boards  being  kept 
in  place  for  several  days  until  the  desired  cranial  flattening  was 

*  Bernal  Diaz,  "  Hist,  de  la  Conquista  de  la  Nueva  Espana,"  tome  i.  chap.  iv. 
t  Landa,  "  Relacion  de  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan,"  sec.  xx. 


2«2 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


effected.  This  Spartan  process  was  often  attended  with 
disastrous  results.  Tamenes  practised  this  flattening  on  the 
forehead  only,  which  was  thus  better  adapted  to  the  carrying 
of  burdens.  Disfigured  Tamenes  skulls  were  found  by  us  at 
Teotihuacan,  and  on  the  pottery  of  Vera  Cruz. 

Eligio  Ancona  draws  a  mournful  picture  of  the  Mayas  before 
the  Conquest :  "  They  were  much  oppressed  by  the  king,  the 
nobles,  and  in  a  special  manner  by  the  restless  and  ambitious 
caciques  constantly  at  war  with  each  other ;  the  education  of 
the  youth  of  both  sexes  rested  entirely  with  the  priests,  the 
clans  of  the  people  were  ignorant  and  degraded  ;  men  were 
sold  in  the  market  or  sacrificed  on  the  altars  ;  women  excluded 
from  society  and  the  family  circle,"  etc.  The  nation  prospered 
in  spite  of  it  all  ;  the  country  was  densely  populated,  while  the 
monuments  everywhere  attest  that  the  arts  flourished. 

What  have  the  Spaniards  done  for  them  ?  Have  they  relieved 
their  misery,  dispelled  their  ignorance,  minimised  their  vices  ? 
The  peninsula  counted  millions  before  the  Conquest  ;  there  are 
not  a  hundred  thousand  at  the  present  day,  and  they  are  more 
sunk  and  wretched  than  at  any  time  of  their  existence.  For 
a  nation  is  always  found  to  have  the  religion  and  the  Government 
best  suited  to  its  character  or  degree  of  civilisation  ;  let  extraneous 
institutions,  whether  civil  or  religious,  however  superior,  be  im- 
posed upon  them,  they  seem  only  to  stultify  and  dishearten  a 
people  they  were  not  intended  for. 

Meztizas  are  one  of  the  chief  attractions  of  Merida ;  they 
are  looked  upon  as  an  inferior  caste,  but  this  they  seem 
to  accept  with  indifference,  revenging  themselves  on  society 
by  their  attractive  ways,  which  it  is  not  given  to  man  to  resist ; 
for  even  those  who  are  not  beautiful,  and  they  are  few,  have 
a  winning  grace,  a  peculiar  charm  all  their  own.  To 
a    certain     extent     this    Is    due    to    their     becoming    costume, 


Yucatan,  Merida,  and  the  Maya  Race. 


28 


which  consists  in  a  loose  tunic  with  short  sleeves  and  square 
body,  leaving  arms  and  neck  bare  ;  this  tunic,  uipil,  is  tastefully 
embroidered  at  the  neck,  arms,  and  bottom  with  red,  blue,  or 
green  devices  ;  the  under-skirt,  fustan,  is  trimmed  with  rich 
lace,  while  their  clustering  black  hair  is  set  off  by  a  silver  arrow  ; 
they  wear  rings  on  their  fingers,  and  chains  of  gold  depend 
from    their  lovely   necks,    often    constituting   their  whole    dowry. 


MEZTIZOS     HOUSE. 


Meztizos  have  a  quarter  at  the  outskirts  of  the  town  allotted 
to  them,  where  they  inhabit  oblong  thatched  cottages  decorated 
outside  with  a  diamond  pattern  showing  where  the  lines  join. 
It  is  probable  that  these  huts  are  identical  with  those  of 
the  Mayas  of  ancient  days,  while  there  is  no  doubt  as 
to  the  decorations  being  like  the  mouldings  of  the  old  palaces. 
A  hamac,  one  or  two  trunks  to  put  their  clothes  in,  a  butaca  or 
low  leather  arm-chair,  compose  the  sole  furniture  of  these  poor 
dwellings.      From    a    little    distance,    the    Meztizo    quarter   looks 


284  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

like  a  cool,  pleasant  grove,  for  each  hut  stands  on  ground 
covering  a  quarter  of  an  acre  planted  with  ramon.  Meridan 
ladies  are  never  seen  out  of  doors  except  at  church,  or  during 
their  evening  drive.  Church  hours  are  unusually  early  here, 
beginning  at  three  a.m.,  when  all  the  bells  of  the  town  are 
set  ringing,  to  awake,   I  suppose,  a  slumbering  population. 

Meridans  are  sociable  and  more  conversant  with  the  questions 
of  the  day  than  might  be  expected :  two  scholars,  Eligio  and 
Canon  Ancona,  have  written  both  of  the  times  preceding  and 
those  following  the  Conquest  ;  while  the  rising  generation  of 
men  is  studious,  intelligent,  and  manly  ;  literary  meetings, 
periodicals,  reviews,  concerts,  theatres,  and  dances,  keep  the 
population  pleasantly  occupied.  The  civility  I  experienced  with 
regard  to  my  mission  was  very  welcome  and  flattering  to  my 
self-respect,  the  good  canon  presenting  me  with  an  obsidian 
sceptre,  a  marvel  of  workmanship,  now  to  be  seen  in  the 
Trocadero.  This  people,  unlike  the  Mexicans  of  the  Uplands, 
are  good  men  of  business,  and  what  trade  or  industry  the 
country  possesses  is  entirely  in  their  own  hands.  They  have 
the  characteristics  of  a  race  in  its  manhood,  enduring,  self- 
possessed,  patient,  and  industrious.  The  only  falling  off 
noticeable  (due  to  the  climate)  is  a  diminution  in  their  stature, 
and  a  disproportionately  large  female  element.  Never  were 
their  qualities  better  tested  than  during  their  social  war, 
when  they  stood  single  -  handed  and  succeeded,  after  years 
of  hard  fighting  and  sore  distress,  in  recovering  their  municipal 
rights.* 

Their  soil  may  be  poor,  they  may  not  have  mineral  wealth 
like  their  neighbours,  but  their  thrift  and  industrious  habits 
bring    their   own    reward.      It    would    be    interesting    to    tell    the 

*  See  note  at  end. 


Yucatan,  Merida,  and  the  Maya  Race. 


28' 


long  struggle  of  this  gallant  people  to  regain  their  inde- 
pendence ;  suffice  it  to  say  that  the  risings  of  the  natives 
began  in  1761,  to  break  forth  into  a  formidable  insurrection 
in  1846,  which  has  continued  with  hardly  any  interruption  to 
the  present  day. 

The    Indian,    whether   his    spirit    is   broken    by   long  oppres- 


A  STREET   IN   MERIDA. 


sion,  or  from  some  other  cause,  seems  to  shrink  and  melt  away 
at  the  approach  of  the  white  man,  and  to  retire  more  and 
more  from  the  beaten   paths   of  civilisation. 

The  environs  of  Merida  are  interspersed  with  numerous 
haciendas ;  amongst  these  Ascorra  is  certainly  one  of  the  most 
picturesque.       Three   norias,    or    deep    wells,    give    ample    water 


286  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


for   the     requirements    of    the    household,    the    irrigation    of    the 
garden,   and   the   plantation. 

The  house,  with  its  verandah  festooned  with  creepers,  its 
flower-beds,  shrubs,  and  palms,  is  a  charming  picture  of 
beauty  and  comfort ;  multitudes  of  ducks,  mandarins,  swans, 
and  flamingoes  people  the  ponds,  while  rills  of  water  cool  the 
air  and  add  to  the  enjoyment  of  this  lovely  spot.  Here  I 
noticed  for  the  first  time  a  liana  bearing  a  curious  large 
flower  of  ih  feet  long  by  9  inches  wide,  with  a  filament  of 
more  than  i  foot  9  inches,  making  over  3  feet  altogether. 
The  colour  is  bluish  green  outside,  while  the  inside  is  like 
a  spring  muslin,  with  red  devices  on  a  dazzling  white  ground, 
deepening  down  the  calyx  into  a  rich  red  velvet  bordered  with 
prone  hairs.  The  bud  resembles  a  web-footed  animal  swim- 
ming, hence  its  name  ^o?'  dc  pato,  "duck's  flower."  It  may 
not  improperly  be  compared  to  an  immense  aristochia.  This 
liana  was,  I  believe,  imported  from  the  Antilles  ;  but  nothing 
is  perfect  in  this  world,  not  even  this  marvellous  flower, 
which  astonished  both  Agassiz  and  myself,  for  no  sooner  is 
it  fully  blown  than  it  stinks  so  abominably  that  its  immediate 
removal  becomes  an   imperative  necessity. 

To  lay  out  this  lovely  garden,  it  was  necessary  to  blast  the 
rocks  forming  the  crust  of  this  country ;  and  as  the  work  is 
still  going  on,  it  enabled  Mr.  Agassiz  to  study  its  formation, 
which,  like  Florida,  belongs  to  the  recent  Tertiary  epoch.  We 
tarried  but  one  day  at  Ascorra,  for  we  wished  to  visit  the 
Tepich  Hacienda,  where  the  largest  henequen  factory  in  these 
parts  is  to  be  seen,  worked  by  machinery,  a  great  innovation  for 
this  country.  The  exports  of  this  important  industry  are 
reckoned  at  ^600  a  year.  The  want  of  hands,  however, 
precludes  the  possibility  for  the  present  of  any  scheme  being 
mooted  to  give   it  greater  extension.      The  country  is  not  suffi- 


Yucatan,  Merida,  and  the  Maya  Race. 


287 


ciently  favoured  to  tempt  immigrants  ;  unless  it  were  Malay 
coolies,  who  would  not  suffer  from  the  climate,  and  who, 
moreover,  when  crossed  with  Meztizas  or  Inflian  women,  would 
produce  a  magnificent  race. 

We  resume  our  seats  for  Acanceh,  formerly  a  populous  centre, 
as  testified  by  three  great  pyramids  still  extant  in  the  plaza, 
which  supported  ancient  temples  on  their  summits.  In  one  of 
them  which  furnished  the  material  for  the  builders  of  the  station, 
fine  sculptured  blocks,  like  those  employed  at  Uxmal  for  building 
purposes,  were  found ;  together  with  several  funeral  objects,  fine 
obsidians,  a  magnificent  sceptre,  in  my  possession,  and  vases 
identical  with  those  we  unearthed  at  Teotihuacan.  These 
affinities  and  resemblances  between  Yucatec  vestiges  and  those 
of  the  Uplands,  are  of  constant  occurrence. 


HACIENDA  OF   ASCORRA. 


VOLAN  C0CH6. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 


AKli    AND    IZAMAL. 


Departure — A  Family  Exploration — "Volan  coche" — Tixpenal  and  Tixkokob — 
Cenot(i— Ruins  of  Akc — Historical  Rectification — Small  Pyramid— Tlachtli — 
A  T.arge  Gallery — Explorations — A  Strange  Theory— Picote — Architecture  of 
Yucatan  at  Different  Epochs. 

On  our  return  from  Merida,  an  expedition  to  Ak6  was  organised 
consisting  of  the  American  Consul,  Mr.  Ayme,  his  wife,  her 
pet  dog  Shuty,  and  ourselves.  Mr.  Ayme  is  an  energetic  archae- 
ologist, well  acquainted  with  the  ruins,  so  that  his  offer  to 
accompany  us   was    most   welcome.      The    ruins    of   Ake   are    on 


Aki^  and  Izamal.  289 


a  hacienda  which  belongs  to  Don  Alvaro  Peon,  from  whom  a 
permit  was  easily  obtained  ;  he  furnishing  us  besides  with  a 
large  hamper  to  supply  our  wants,  which  his  Chinese  cook  was 
to  take  to  the  hacienda. 

Journeys  in  the  interior  of  the  peninsula  may  be  performed 
either  by  diligence  or  "  volan  coch^,"  a  national  vehicle,  made 
entirely  of  wood,  save  the  iron  tires  of  the  wheels.  An  oblong 
box  balanced  on  two  leather  springs  is  placed  on  a  heavy  under- 
frame,  the  bottom  of  the  carriage  lined  with  a  stout  flax  net, 
on  which  is  spread  a  mattress,  to  deaden  to  some  extent  the 
jolting  of  these  abominable  roads.  The  coachman  sits  in  front, 
while  the  back  is  occupied  by  the  baggage ;  when  the  cochd 
has  but  one  occupant,  he  generally  lies  full  -  length  on  the 
mattress ;  but  if  not  he  sits  Turkish  fashion,  which  in  time 
becomes  very  irksome  to  one  not  to  the  manner  born  ;  as  to 
the  natives,  it  seems  to  be  immaterial  how  many  are  packed 
away  in  a  "volan."  Although  well  hung,  the  swaying  of  these 
coch^s  is  truly  amazing,  especially  when  the  driver  is  drunk 
and  sets  his  mules  full  gallop  ;  but  most  wonderful  of  all  is  that 
nothing  ever  happens,  and  in  my  numerous  expeditions  I  was 
only  once  upset. 

Ake  lies  ten  leagues  east  of  Merida,  which  can  be  reached 
by  the  Izamal  road,  through  immense  estates  of  agave,  leaving 
on  the  right  two  mounds  covered  with  ruins  and  passing  Tixpenal, 
a  wretched  -  looking  village,  as  indeed  is  the  whole  country 
around  ;  but  the  half-burnt,  tumbled-down  hovels  are  the  work 
of  the  revolted  natives,  who  in  1846  occupied  the  village  and 
set  fire  to  it. 

Some  three  leagues  further  lies  Tixkokob,  where  we  halt  to 
have  a  cup  of  chocolate.  The  inhabitants  are  great  hammock- 
makers,  and  through  the  open  doors,  multicoloured  nets  may 
be    descried    in    every    stage    of   progress.      They    are    the   only 


290  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

beds  used  by  the  natives,  and  cost  from  half-a-crown  to  four 
shillings,  but  those  made  at  Valladolid  are  more  expensive. 
Here  we  leave  the  main  road  for  a  cross  path,  when  we  may 
be  said  to  become  fully  acquainted  with  a  cochd's  peculiarities. 
W^e  are  rocked  to  and  fro  in  the  most  alarming  manner ; 
we  hold  on  to  the  net  like  grim  death,  for  fear  of  being 
pitched  out  on  the  stony  road  or  landed  among  prickly  pears 
at  every  turn.  It  is  with  a  sigh  of  relief  that  we  reach  Ekmul, 
long  after  the  curfew  has  been  sounded,  and  the  place  lies  wrapped 
in  the  silence  and  deep  shadows  of  night.  We  found  the 
hacienda  strongly  bolted,  for  the  inmates  had  given  us  up  ; 
but  the  loud  barking  of  the  dogs  brought  Don  Peon's  mayordomo, 
and  we  were  soon  made  at  home  and  as  comfortable  as  the 
somewhat  dilapidated  nature  of  the  dwelling  would  allow. 

We  were  up  at  early  dawn,  when  we  found  under  the  thatched 
verandah  a  number  of  Don  Peon's  servants,  with  hatchets  and 
machetes,  awaiting  our  orders  for  clearing  the  main  pyramid,  and 
while  so  engaged,  we  proposed  to  visit  a  cenotd  lying  on  the 
other  side  of  a  thick  wood  containing  various  ruins.  This  hacienda 
is  stocked  with  horned  cattle,  and  we  were  warned  to  provide 
against  garrapatas,  the  most  terrible  wood-lice  in  existence.  We 
had  taken,  or  fancied  we  had  taken,  all  the  precautions  which 
the  ingenuity  of  man,  alarmed  at  the  approach  of  danger,  could 
devise.  But  against  the  voracity  of  a  famished  garrapata  what 
can  avail }  This  insidious  insect  is  invisible  in  its  early  youth  ; 
thinner  than  the  thinnest  paper,  it  steals,  it  creeps  in  quite 
easily  between  two  stitches  ! 

But  what  is    a  "  cenote  "  ? 

Although  Yucatan  is  uncut  by  rivers  or  streams,  an  immense 
sheet  of  water  and  ill-defined  currents  occupy  Its  under 
surface  ;  these  waters  are  near  the  surface  along  the  coast, 
but    low    down    In    the    Interior    of    the    peninsula,    where    the 


Aki^:  and   Izamal.  291 


calcareous  layer  is  of  great  thickness.  Localities  where  these 
waters  can  be  reached,  whether  through  the  natural  sub- 
sidence of  the  soil  or  artificial  pits,  receive  the  name  of  cenote. 
When  the  water  flows  at  a  slight  depth,  and  the  calcareous 
layer  has  only  been  partly  eaten  away,  there  follows  an  irregular 
sinking  which  forms  a  cave  open  from  side  to  side  ;  but  when 
the  crust  is  thicker,  and  the  stream  has  a  regular  course,  the 
soil  is  generally  corroded  in  a  circular  space  ;  and  the  vault 
thus  formed  lacking  support,  falls  in,  when  an  immense  open 
well  is  made,  as  for  instance  at  Chichen-Itza.  Often  the 
crust  is  so  deep,  that  the  soft  parts  only  crumble  down  or 
are  carried  away,  leaving  frequently  a  small  aperture  towards 
the  top,  fashioning  a  real  grotto  with  stalactites  and  stalagmites, 
as  at  Salacun  and  Valladolid.  It  sometimes  happens  that  the 
calcareous  crust  is  exceedingly  thick,  when  a  gigantic  sub- 
terraneous passage  is  formed,  as  at  Bolonchen  ;  in  a  word,  all 
the  varieties  which  are  produced  by  the  silent  work  of  an 
undisturbed  stream  in  a  friable  soil,  may  be  witnessed.  It 
is  worthy  of  note  that  most  civilised  centres  in  Yucatan  rose 
around  these  natural  reservoirs  ;  for  the  early  settlers  were 
probably  unacquainted  with  the  means  of  sinking  artificial  wells 
or  cisterns,   as  they  did  later  at   Uxmal. 

The  Ake  cenote  is  thirty  feet  below  the  surface,  and 
belongs  to  the  early  series  of  these  natural  phenomena.  It  forms 
a  gigantic  vault  slightly  curved,  to  which  the  accidents  of  the 
rock  give  a  picturesque  and  grand  aspect.  The  bottom  is 
occupied  by  an  extensive  piece  of  clear  fresh  water,  peopled 
by  a  multitude  of  small  fish  some  three  inches  long,  while 
thousands  of  swallows  flit  about,  filling  the  whole  place  with 
their  joyous  twitter. 

We  left  the  cenote  to  come  back  through  the  woods,  spying 
out    if    peradventure    we    could    perceive  any    ruins    from    under 

u  2 


292  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

their  deep,  green  shroud,  brushing  unwittingly  past  the  trail- 
ing branches  of  the  trees,  suffocating  literally  in  our  well- 
closed  garments  ;  no  unusual  sensation,  no  unseemly  irritation 
had  as  yet  alarmed  us.  Shuty  was  the  first  to  show  that 
all  was  not  well  with  her.  We  had  already  noticed  some 
signs  of  uneasiness  as  we  emerged  from  the  cenote ;  she 
would  suddenly  stop,  to  nibble  her  paws,  or  perform  some 
extraordinary  gymnastic  feat ;  gyrating,  running,  and  barking 
joyously  at  the  empty  space. 

We  came  presently  to  some  very  intricate  parts  of  the 
wood,  when  the  somewhat  fictitious  gaiety  of  Shuty  turned 
into  groans  of  acute  agony,  rolling  madly  on  the  grass,  biting 
herself,  and  howling  lamentably  until  her  mistress  took  her  into 
her  arms,  to  find  her  alive  with  garrapatas,  as  indeed  we  all 
were ;  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  return  to  the  hacienda 
as  quickly  as  possible,  and  institute  a  minute  and  conscientious 
investigation,  A  complete  change  of  clothes  became  necessary, 
ere  we  could  sit  down  to  the  very  excellent  breakfast  prepared 
for  us  by  Don  Peon's  cook  ;  as  for  Mrs.  Ayme  and  Shuty, 
they  did  not  venture  on  the  perils  of  another  exploration  in 
the  fated  woods. 

Here  I  again  noticed  the  same  curious  phenomenon  I 
had  observed  at  Palenque  with  regard  to  concentric  circles  in 
the  trees  ;  on  the  great  pyramid  which  Don  Peon  had  caused 
to  be  cleared  only  six  months  before,  and  which  was  now 
thickly  covered  with  young  shoots  our  men  were  fast  demolish- 
ing,  I  counted  no  less  than  seven  or  eight  circles  on  the  twigs. 

The  ruins  of  Akc  are  hardly  known ;  Stephens,  their  only 
visitor  besides  myself,  calls  the  gallery  "  colossal,  the  ruins  of 
the  palace  ruder,  older,  and  more  cyclopean  in  aspect  than  any 
he  had  previously  seen."  Quoting  Cogolludo,  apparently  from 
memory,    he   adds    that   the    Spaniards  halted    at   a  place   called 


Ake  and  Izamal.  293 


Ak^,  where  a  great  battle  was  fought ;  had  he  read  Cogolludo 
properly,  he  would  have  seen  that  the  place  meant  could  not 
be  Ake,  which  lay  out  of  the  line  of  march  of  the  conquerors. 
We  have  had  occasion  to  observe  before  that  Montejo  landed 
on  the  eastern  coast  of  Yucatan  at  a  place  now  opposite  to 
Valladolid,  where  he  took  possession  of  the  country  ;  various  other 
points  are  also  given,  but  it  is  certain  that  he  made  his  way 
to  Coni  in  Chiapas,  halted  at  Coba,  and  continued  his  march  to 
Ce-Ake,  where  he  had  to  fight  the  Indians  for  two  days  ;  hence 
he  directed  his  course  to  Chichen-Itza,  which  he  wished  to 
colonise,  because  "  its  great  buildings  made  it  easy  of  defence."  '"' 
This  was  in  1527  ;  but  Ce-Ake  was  thirty-five  leagues  east  of 
the  ruins  of  another  Ake,  once  a  populous  centre,  as  shown 
by  fifteen  or  twenty  pyramids  of  all  dimensions,  crowned  with 
ruinous  palaces,  scattered  over  a  space  of  about  half  a  square 
mile.  The  largest  are  grouped  so  as  to  form  a  rectangle, 
encircling  a  vast  courtyard,  the  centre  of  which  is  occupied 
by  a  large  stone  of  punishment  called  picotd,  of  universal  use 
before  and  after  the  Conquest,  and  still  found  at  Uxmal  and 
various  other  places.  An  old  Indian  of  Tenosique  assured  me 
that  such  a  stone  was  standing  some  thirty  years  ago  in  the 
plaza.  The  culprit  was  stripped  and  tied  to  the  picotd  previous 
to  receiving  the  bastinado.  This  custom  still  prevails  at 
Tumbala,  an  Indian  village  lying  between  Palenque  and  S. 
Christobal.  According  to  the  Indian  moral  code,  punishment 
makes  a  man  clean,  and  I  have  seen  natives  who,  to  have 
a  clear  conscience,  requested  a  punishment  no  one  dreamt  of 
inflicting. 

The  plan  we  give  is,  unfortunately,  very  incorrect,  but  such 
as    it   is  it  will  enable  the   reader  to   follow  out  our    description 


*  Cogolludo,  tome  i.  lib.  ii.  caps.  v.  and  vi. 


2  94 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  Ni:\v  World. 


of  the  ruins.  To  the  north-west  is  a  three-storeyed  pyramid 
Hke  those  at  Palenque,  built  with  large  blocks  laid  together 
without  mortar,  about  40  feet  high,  crowned  by  a  small 
structure    whose    roof  has    crumbled    away  but    whose    walls  are 


^imi^m&^i!m 


m 


mi;;) 


.;A1; 


IT' 


North 


South 


'  %,  r^:r"^|;i 


....  s  ... 


■^iPiippiP 


Sffel 


.,  w-..*.    ..... -..e.-  .. 


0m. 


I'LAN    OF    THE    RUINS   OK    AKI^:. 


No.  I,  Small    Pyramid.     N(j.  2,  Tlachtli,  Tennis-court.     No.  3,   Large   Gallery.     No.  4,  Ruined 
Palaces.    No.  5,  Akabna.    No.  6,  Xnuc.    No.  7,  Succuna.    No.  S,  Picotc.     No.  9,  Various  Ruins. 


Still  standing.  We  recognise  the  same  style  of  structure  we 
observed  at  Tula  and  Teotihuacan,  a  style  we  shall  meet 
aofain  both  in  .Yucatan  and  in  the  district  of  the  Lacandones. 
It  may  be  stated  that  pyramids  with  esplanades,  both  here 
and    at    Palcnc^ue,    although   built    with   large  stones,  are  smaller 


Aki'  and  Izamal. 


295 


than  those  of  the  monuments  in  other  places,  and  if  the 
blocks  were  laid  in  mortar  it  has  crumbled  away  like  the 
cement    which   formed    the    outer   surface. 

The  dimensions  of  this  structure  are  so  diminutive  that 
it  cannot  have  been  anything  but  a  temple,  forming  part  of 
the  next  monument  which  it  commands.  The  latter  ^^rom  its 
rectangular  arrangement  recalls  to   mind  the  so-called    fortresses 


SMALL    PYRAMID   OF    AK£. 


at  Tula  and  Teotihuacan,  which  were  in  reality  tlachtli^  "tennis- 
courts." 

The  third  monument  has  given  rise  to  many  conjec- 
tures ;  it  is  a  large  pyramid  with  an  immense  staircase, 
presenting  a  new  and  extraordinary  feature,  entirely  different 
from  all  we  have  seen  in  Yucatan.  Was  this  a  specimen  of 
a  different  civilisation,  or  simply  a  particular  building  which 
belonged  to  an  earlier  epoch  ? — were  the  questions  which  pre- 
sented   themselves    to    my    somewhat    bewildered    imagination. 


296  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


This  strange  monument  is  surmounted  by  thirty-six  pillars 
(only  twenty-nine  are  still  standing)  each  4  feet  square,  and 
from  14  to  16  feet  high.  These  pillars  are  arranged  in  three 
parallel  rows  10  feet  apart  from  north  to  south,  and  15  from 
east  to  west;  whilst  the  esplanade  supporting  them  is  212  feet 
long  by  46  feet  wide,  rounded  off  at  the  extremities  like  the 
Hunpitoc  pyramid  at  Izamal  looking  north-south.  Each  pillar 
is  composed  of  ten  square  stones  3  ft.  10  in.  on  one  side, 
varying  in  thickness  from  i  ft.  3  in.  to  i  ft.  6  in.  A  gigantic 
staircase  with  steps  some  4  ft.  7  in.  to  6  ft.  7  in.  long  and 
about   I    ft.    to    I    ft.  6  in.  thick,  leads   to   the  summit. 

It  was  urofed  that  all  these  monuments  had  been  con- 
structed  with  uncemented  stones,  as  neither  cement  nor  mortar 
were  found  at  Ake.  This,  however,  is  an  error,  for  I 
observed  that  the  builders  used  stones  cut  on  the  side  facing 
the  outer  surface  of  the  pillars,  leaving  the  inner  sides  uncut ; 
and  as  they  did  not  perfectly  fit  one  into  another,  but  left 
cavities  sometimes  3  inches  deep,  they  were  filled  up  with 
fragments  of  stone  rubble  which  I  found,  and  the  whole  was 
no  doubt  smoothed  and  polished  over  with  mortar  or  cement.* 
But  what  was  this  sinofular  structure  intended  for  .'^  If  for 
a  covered  gallery,  the  wood  or  thatch  roof  has  long  since 
disappeared  and  left  no  trace.  Could  it  have  been  a  com- 
memorative monument  ?  We  know  not,  save  that  it  is  the 
only  monument  of  the  kind  in  Yucatan,  and  that  its  dimen- 
sions are  far  from  colossal.  Not  that  theories  are  wanting  • 
some  writers  have  gone  so  far  as  to  imagine  this  monument 
to  have  been  erected  to  commemorate  periods  or  reigns,  and 
each  block  to  represent  cither  a  ahau  -  katun,  "  twenty  -  four 
years,"    or  a  century,  kahm,    "fifty-two  years."     Now,  as   there 


*  See  note  at  end. 


AkE    and     IZAMAL. 


299 


are  thirty-six  pillars  having  each  ten  stones,  this  monument 
would  be,  by  the  first  computation,  8,640  years  old,  and  by 
the  second,  18,720.  It  is  clear  that  were  this  the  case  the 
first  stone  would  have  disappeared  long  before  the  last  one 
had  been  placed,  and  that  the  earlier  would  have  looked 
older   than    the    later    ones,    whereas    the    same    air    of  decay  is 


PILLARS   OF   THE    GREAT   GALLERY    OF    AK6. 


observable  in  all.  It  is  more  simple  and  consistent  to  suppose 
this  monument  to  have  been  a  thatched  gallery  which  was  used 
for  games,  meetings,  or  public  ceremonies.  Its  central  position 
as  regards  other  monuments  would  seem  to  bear  me  out.  Is  a 
ruin  to  be  interesting  only  in  ratio  of  its  obscurity  and  antiquity  ? 

After   the    pyramid,    we  visited  the  ruin   known   as  Akabna, 
"  House    of   Darkness,"  in    which    the    rooms    still    standing  are 


300  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

perfectly  dark ;  for  the  only  light  they  receive  is  from  a 
door  communicating  with  other  apartments.  Here  we  again 
find  the  boveda,  the  corbel  roof,  the  pointed  arch  observed  in 
previous  buildings.  The  Ake  vault  is  built  with  large  rough 
blocks,  which  has  caused  these  monuments  to  be  called 
Cyclopean,  an  appellation  hardly  deserved,  for  cyclopean  structures 
were  built  with  far  larger  blocks,  irregular  in  shape,  yet 
fitting  so  well  that  it  would  be  impossible  to  introduce  the 
slightest  object  between  the  joints,  whilst  the  stones  employed 
in  the  constructions  at  Ake  are  uniform,  consisting  of  thick 
uncut  slabs,  with  large  gaps  intervening.  This  I  observed  to 
Mr.  Ayme :  "You  hold  that  Ake  structures  were  built  with- 
out mortar  or  cement,  and  that  no  sculpture  or  decoration  of 
any  kind  have  been  found,  but  I  lay  down  as  a  principle, 
that  it  is  altogether  impossible,  without  wishing  to  deny  the 
very  novel  features  of  the  phenomenon  we  are  confronted 
with  ;  and  nothing  except  the  most  irrefragable  proofs  will 
bring  me  from  my  position  of  total  denial,  for  I  am  con- 
vinced that  the  builders  would  not  have  left  structures  so 
important  unfinished.  If  these  stones  fitted  originally,  the  gaps 
which  are  noticeable  would  be  the  work  of  time,  and  this 
were  to  give  them  an  impossible  and  incredible  antiquity, 
since  the  slabs  are  rounded  off  or  sharp  at  the  edges  as  if 
quarried  yesterday  ;  further,  both  in  the  interior  or  facing 
the  walls,  they  are  exactly  in  the  same  condition,  from  which 
I  conclude  that  all  were  originally  laid  in  cement,  and 
coated  over  in  the  usual  manner," 

Soon  after  this  conversation  we  visited  the  ruin  called 
Kmic,  "  Owl's  Palace,"  and  on  reaching  the  top  of  the  great 
pyramid,  the  first  thing  I  noticed  was  a  very  pretty  bas-relief 
of    cement,    consisting    of    diamonds    and    flattened    spheres,    of 


Ak£  and  Izamal.  301 


the  kind  met  at  Palenque.  This  relief  formed  the  right  side 
of  a  frame,  topped  by  figures,  traces  of  which  were  still  dis- 
cernible ;  below  the  projecting  cornice  was  a  thick  coating  of 
plaster,  filling  the  joints,  well  smoothed  and  polished  on  the 
surface,  and  also  a  coating  of  paint  on  the  wall. 

"  Well,"  I  said  to  my  companion,  Mr.  Ayme,  "  what  do 
you  say  now  ?  " 

'  That  you  were  perfectly  right." 

And,  indeed,  this  discovery  proved  that  the  monuments 
could  no  longer  be  considered  the  work  of  a  different  race, 
a  different  civilisation,  or  a  hoary  antiquity.  In  effect,  their 
cement  decorations  are  similar  to  those  of  the  older  edifices 
in  Tabasco  and  many  in  Yucatan.  I  shall  therefore  distinguish 
the  Ake  period  under  three  heads  :  the  cement  epoch,  the  cement 
and  cut  stone,  and  the  cut  stone  only,  when  the  builders  used 
only  the  latter  in  their  decorations,  examples  of  which  are 
to  be  found  in  the  later  edifices  at  Uxmal  and   Kabah. 

The  Ake  builders  lived  in  a  country  where  the  calcareous 
layer  was  taken  up  in  sheets  varying  from  10  inches  to  i  foot 
7  inches  thick.  They  used  them  exactly  as  they  came  from  the 
quarry,  thus  saving  great  expenditure  in  labour.  When  the  shell 
of  a  structure  was  run  up,  it  was  thickly  plastered  over,  painted, 
and  ornamented  with  mouldings  in  relief.  This  explains  at 
once  why  the  stones  on  the  pillars  of  the  gallery  and  the  blocks 
of  the  grand  stairway  are  irregular.  The  discovery  of  the 
bas-relief  and  cornice  filled  me  with  joyful  expectation,  but 
although  I  was  indefatigable  in  visiting  the  Succuna  and  other 
nameless  pyramids,  I  brought  to  light  nothing  more  of  the 
kind ;  everything  had  crumbled  away.  Here  are  also  found 
the  typical  superimposed  layers  of  cement,  which  we  mentioned 
in  various  places  inhabited  by  the  Toltecs. 


?02 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


To  sum  up,  Ake  seems  to  belong  to  the  early  times  of 
the  Toltec  Invasion  in  Yucatan ;  an  epoch  which  may  not 
improperly  be  termed  Maya-Toltec,  as  the  civilisation  in  Tabasco 
and  Chiapas  may  be  termed  Tzendal-Toltec,  and  that  of 
Guatemala,  Guatemalto-Toltec. 


CEMENTED   BAS-RELIEF  OF  AKfi. 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

IZAMAL    EN    ROUTE    FOR    CHICHEN. 

Expedition  to  Izamal  and  Chichen-Itza — Brigands — Cacalchen — Market  Place — 
Great  Pyramid — Small  Pyramid  and  Colossal  Decorative  Figures — Cemented 
Roads — The  Convent  of  the  Virgin  at  Izamal — A  Precarious  Telegraph — 
Tunicas — Garrison — Quintana-Roo — An  Old  Acquaintance — Citas — A  Forti- 
fied Church — Troops — Opening  a  Path— Native  Entertainment — Arrival  at 
Piste. 


Our  expedition  to  Izamal  and  Chichen  was  a  somewhat  serious 
undertaking :  we  required  a  large  number  of  hands  for  our 
work  in  mid-forest ;  we  should  have  to  camp  out  for  three 
weeks  at  least,  removed  from  all  human  habitation ;  finally  a 
military  escort,  fifty  strong,  was  deemed  necessary  to  secure 
us  against  a  sudden  attack  from  the  revolted  natives,  respecting 
whom  alarming  rumours  of  pillaging  were  afloat.  Our  heavy 
baggage  had  been  sent  on,  and  armed  with  twelve-shot 
Winchesters,   and  provided   with  letters  from    the   Governor    for 


304  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

the  officers  in  command  of  the  district  garrisons  which  were  to 
supply  the  escort,  we  started  on  January  4th,  travelHng  over  a 
monotonous,  dusty,  abominable  road.  Our  drivers,  however, 
were  such  good  whips,  that  we  went  over  the  distance  in  no 
time. 

There  is  hardly  a  soul  to  be  met  on  the  road,  save  at  rare 
intervals  some  carts  loaded  with  henequen  ;  some  natives  returning 
from  the  next  village,  the  women  veiling  their  faces  or  turning 
their  backs  upon  us  at  our  approach  ;  now  a  company  of  reserve 
on  their  way  to  the  front  or  homeward-bound,  for  the  borders 
are  strictly  guarded  against  a  coup  de  main  from  the  revolted 
natives. 

We  stop  at  Cacalchen  ;  for  our  early  start,  the  crisp  morning 
air,  and  the  jolting  of  the  road,  have  sharpened  our  appetites. 
We  breakfast  under  a  shaded  verandah  opening  into  a  central 
court  planted  with  cocoa-trees.  We  are  waited  upon  by  a  very 
pretty  Meztiza,  whose  fair  complexion,  rosy  mouth,  large  black 
eyes,  and  exquisite  figure,  are  shown  to  the  utmost  advantage 
in  her  transparent  tiipil,  doing  her  work  with  simple,  quiet  grace, 
while  her  presence  and  her  bewitching  smile  seem  to  light  up 
the  whole  place.  What  dish  would  not  have  tasted  sweet, 
offered  by  her  shapely  hands  ? 

Izamal,  where  we  arrive  at  three  o'clock,  is  an  important 
place  numbering  some  five  or  six  thousand  souls.  It  looks 
beautifully  white,  for  it  has  just  undergone  its  annual  cleaning, 
when  every  building  is  whitewashed  in  honour  of  the  patron 
saint. 

It  has  been  urged  by  some  writers  that  the  civilisation  of 
Yucatan  and  Tabasco  belonged  to  a  remote  past  ;  but  these 
writers  often  speak  from  mere  hearsay,  accepting  everything 
without  the  slightest  criticism  ;  their  accounts,  however  valuable, 
are  filled  with  uncertainties,  are  often  obscure  and  contradictory, 


IZAMAL    EN    ROUTE    EOK    CllICIIEN.  305 


SO  that  they  may  be  made  to  square  with  the  idiosyncrasy  of 
all  or  any  particular  man.  Consequently  the  difficulties  in 
arriving  at  the  truth  are  almost  insuperable,  unless  it  is  one 
who  has  visited  the  regions  he  writes  upon,  studied  the  monu- 
ments, collated  ethnographical  documents,  compared  the  various 
manners  and  customs,  fitting  himself  to  catch  a  word  or  a 
sentence  which  from  time  to  time  shoots  across  the  darkness 
of  their  undigested  narratives,  and  correcting  with  their  help 
errors  with  which  they  abound.  But  the  general  neglect  by 
ancient  writers  of  monuments  which  everywhere  met  their  gaze 
makes  me  unjust,  while  our  gratitude  is  due  to  such  industrious 
writers  as  Bernal   Diaz,   Sahagun,  Torquemada,  and  many  more. 

Izamal,  like  many  other  places  in  the  peninsula,  was  built 
on  the  site  of  an  Indian  city  ;  here,  as  elsewhere,  the  chief 
care  of  the  Spaniards  was  to  destroy  alike  palaces,  temples, 
and  written  documents,  bidding  the  natives  forget  their  ancient 
traditions.  Landa,  who  wrote  forty-five  years  after  the  Con- 
quest (1566),  speaks  of  the  edifices  at  Izamal  as  twelve  in 
number,  adding  that  the  founders  were  unknown  ;  whilst 
Lizana,  sixty  years  later  (1626),  with  fewer  opportunities  for 
collecting  legends,  gives  their  history  in  full,  together  with  the 
Indian  names  and  their  signification  ;  but  unfortunately  in  his 
time   the   monuments   had  dwindled  down  to   five. 

Landa,  as  we  have  remarked,  says  these  monuments  are  of 
unknown  origin,  yet  in  another  place  he  affirms  they  are  the 
work  of  the  existing  race,  since  he  writes:  ''Among  the 
remains  of  monuments  zvhich  were  destroyed  are  found  frag- 
ments of  human  figures  and  other  decorations,  such  as  the 
natives  make  even  nozv  with  very  hard  cement"  He  further 
mentions  having  found  in  a  tomb  ''stone  ornaments  artistically 
wrought,  similar  to  the  currency  in  present  use  auiong  the 
natives. " 


jo6  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


At  Merida  he  demolished  an  Indian  temple,  which  crowned 
the  upper  part  of  the  great  mound,  giving  a  ground  plan  and 
describing  it  as  "  built  with  square  blocks,  beautifully  carved, 
and  of  such  height  as  to  produce  a  feeling  of  awe  in  the 
beholder "  (its  real  height  is  80  feet)  ;  thus  proving  the  monu- 
ment to  have  been  entire  when  he  wrote.  Nevertheless  it  is 
from  an  assertion  such  as  this  that  judgment  has  been  passed 
on  the  monuments,  and  from  documents  like  the  Perez  manu- 
script that  a  chronology  has  been  deduced.  The  monuments 
are  imposing,  no  doubt,  to  judge  from  the  few  that  remain  ; 
but  we  should  err  if,  following  Landa  and  others,  we  pronounced 
them  "  colossal,  gigantic,  magnificent,  to  which  nothing  in  the 
world  can  be   compared." 

The  whole  extent  of  the  Yucatec  monuments  would  not 
represent  m  cubic  metres  the  works  achieved  in  Paris  during 
the  last  twenty-five  years ;  consequently  they  should  be  viewed 
as  the  unpretending  outcome  of  a  semi-civilised  people,  and  this 
estimate  need  not  lessen  their  interest,  while  the  mysterious 
silence  which  surrounds  them  forms  a  void  in  the  history  of 
the  human  race. 

The  great  mound  to  the  north  is  called  Kinick-Kakmo,  "  The 
Sun's  face  with  fiery  rays,"  from  an  idol  which  stood  in  the 
temple  crowning  its  summit.  The  monument  consists  of  two 
parts  :  the  basement,  nearly  650  feet,  surmounted  by  an  immense 
platform,  and  the  small  pyramid  to  the  north.  "Great  veneration 
was  felt  for  the  idol  or  deity  of  Kinich-Kakmo,  and  in  times  of 
public  calamity,  the  entire  population  fiocked  to  this  shrine  with 
peace-offerings,  when  at  mid-day  a  fire  descended  and  consumed 
the  sacrifice,  in  the  presence  of  the  assembled  multitude.  Then 
the  officiating  priest  notified  the  will  of  the  deity  whether  for 
good  or  for  evil,  and  prophesied  more  or  less  the  secret  longings 
of  their   hearts  ;    but   as  they   could   not   always   guess   aright,   it 


IZAMAL    EN    ROUTE    FOR    ClIICIIEN. 


307 


not    unfrequently    happened    that    their    expectations    were    not 
fulfilled."* 


GREAT    PYRAMID,  KINICH-KAKMo,   AT    IZAMAL. 


Facing  this  to  the  south  was  another  great  mound,  known  as 
Pi)ai>p-Hol-Chac,  "  the  House  of  Heads  and  Lightning,"  the  priest's 


*  Lizana,    "  Hist,   de    Nuestra   Senora    de    Izamal,"   published    by    the   Abbe 
Brasseur. 

X  2 


3o8  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

house,  presumably  similar  to  those  still  standing  in  various  towns 
of  Yucatan.  The  upper  portion  of  this  pyramid  was  levelled 
down,  and  on  its  lower  platform  was  erected  the  Franciscan 
church  and  convent. 

The  third  pyramid  to  the  east  supported  a  temple  dedicated 
to  Izamat-Ul,  Izamna,  or  Zamna,  the  great  founder  of  the 
ancient  Maya  empire.  "  To  him  were  brought,"  says  Lizana, 
"  the  sick,  the  halt,  and  the  dead,  and  he  healed  and  restored 
them  all  to  life  by  the  touch  of  his  hand  ; "  hence  the  appellation 
Kab-Ul,  the  Miraculous  Hand,  applied  to  him.*  He  is  often 
represented  by  a  hand  only,  which  recalled  him  to  the  memory 
of  his  worshippers.  His  other  names  are  the  Strong,  the 
Mighty  Hand,  the  Long-handed  Chief,  who  wrote  the  code  of 
the  Toltecs,  and  as  such  has  been  identified  with  Quetzalcoatl, 
with  whom  he  shared  the  government ;  he  conducting  the  civil 
power,  whilst  Quetzalcoatl,  the  virgin-born  deity,  looked  after  the 
sp'ritual.t 

"  The  temple  in  which  these  miracles  were  performed,  was 
much  frequented ;  for  this  reason  four  good  roads  had  been 
constructed,  leading  to  Guatemala,  Chiapas,  and  Tabasco. 
Traces  of  them  can  even  now  be  seen  in  various  places."  J  We 
also  have  found  marks  of  a  cemented  road,  from  Izamal  to  the 
sea  facing  the  island  of  Cozumel. 

Lastly  the  fourth  pyramid  to  the  west,  which  is  shown  in 
our  cut  of  the  market-place,  had  on  its  summit  the  palace  of 
Hunpictok,  "  the  commander-in-chief  of  eight  thousand  flints." 
On  its  side  near  the  basement,  consisting  of  stones  laid  without 


*  ICxtract  from  P.  Lizana's  "  Hist,  de  Nuestra  Senora  de  Izamal,"  published 
by  the  Abbd  Brasseur. 

t  Diego  Landa,  chap.  ix.  p.  57. 

%  T.izana,  "Hist,  de  Nuestra  Schora  de  Izamal,"  published  by  the  Abbd 
Brasseur. 


IZAMAL    EN    ROUTE    FOR    ClIICIIEN. 


309 


mortar,  and  rounded  off  at  the  corners  like  those  of  the  Ake 
pyramid,  stood  the  gigantic  face  reproduced  by  Stephens,  but 
which  has  since  disappeared.     This   head  is   so   interesting  that 


SOUTH   SIDE   OF   HUNPICTOK   PYRAMID   AT   IZAMAL,  AFTER    STErilENS. 


I  cannot  deprive  the  reader  of  the  description  given  by  the 
American  traveller  :  "  It  is  7  feet  8  inches  high.  The  features 
were  first  rudely  formed  by  small  rough  stones,  fixed  in  the  side 
of  the  mound  by  means  of  mortar,  and  afterwards  perfected 
with   stucco   so  hard   that   it   has   successfully  resisted   the   action 


3IO  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

of  air  and  water  for  centuries."'"  The  stone  forming  the  chin 
alone  measures  i  foot  6  inches ;  the  figure  has  enormous  mous- 
tachios,  and  a  resemblance  may  be  traced  to  the  gigantic  faces  in 
stone  at  Copan,  where  the  plaster  has  crumbled  away  and  left  the 
stone  bare.  The  resemblance  to  the  Ake  pyramids  is  remarkable 
and  leads  us  to  conclude  that  the  latter  were  decorated  in  the 
same  manner.  Here  also  on  the  east  side  is  found  the  figure 
shown  in  our  cut,  from  which  may  be  traced  the  builder's  mode 
of  working. 

This  colossal  head  is  13  feet  high  ;  the  eyes,  nose,  and 
under-lip  were  first  formed  by  rough  stones  coated  over  with 
mortar  ;  the  ornaments  to  the  right  and  left  were  obtained  by 
the  same  means  ;  the  latter  are  the  best  preserved,  while  double 
spirals,  symbols  of  wind  or  speech,  may  be  seen,  similar  to 
those  in  Mexico,  at  Palenque  and  Chichen-Itza.  On  the  western 
side  of  this  pyramid,  which  has  been  cleared  towards  the  base- 
ment, we  discovered  one  of  the  finest  bas-reliefs  it  has  been 
our  fortune  to  see  in  Yucatan.  Its  principal  subject  is  a 
crouching  tiger  with  a  human  head  and  retreating  forehead,  less 
exaggerated  than  those  at  Palenque,  beautifully  moulded,  and 
reminding  us  of  the  orders  of  knighthood  in  which  the  tiger 
had  the  pre-eminence ;  nor  could  a  better  device  be  imagined 
for  the  house  of  the  commander-in-chief  at  Izamal.  To  conclude, 
these  documents,  which  would  be  a  dead  letter  to  one  who  had 
not  followed  the  various  migrations  from  north  to  south,  enable 
us  to  reconstruct  here  also  a  Toltec  centre.  It  may  be  noted 
that  if  numerous  monuments  are  still  found  in  Yucatan,  their 
existence  is  due  to  the  small  number  of  Spaniards  settled  in  these 
regions  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  and  more  especially  to  their 
being  at  a  distance  from  the  centres  occupied  by  the  conquerors. 


Stephens,  "Incidents  of  Travels  in  Yucatan,"  tome  11.  p.  434. 


IZAMAL    EN    ROUTE    FOR    ClIICIIEN. 


311 


Through  the  whole  length  and  breadth  of  Anahuac  both 
monuments  and  cities  have  entirely  disappeared ;  for  the 
Spaniards    were    not  satisfied    with  destroying  all  that  reminded 


COLOSSAL   HEAD    FORMING   BASEMENT   OF   PYRAMID   AT   IZ\MAL. 

them  of  a  former  polity,  they  were  also  careful  to  infuse 
into  their  young  disciples  a  profound  horror  for  their  former 
religion,  while  they  trained  children  to  report  any  word  or 
deed  they  observed  in  their  parents  or  priests  which  savoured 
of  their    ancient   customs.       Thanks    to    these    measures,    every- 


12  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


thing  that  could  recall  the  past  to  the  rising  generation  was 
soon  blotted  out  from  the  Indian  mind.  But  however  dilapi- 
dated the  monuments  we  observe  at  Izamal,  they  prove  that 
there  was  here  a  great  population  at  the  time  of  the  Con- 
quest ;  and  this  being  admitted,  it  follows  that  their  destruction 
is  comparatively  recent,  due  mainly  to  civil  wars,  dating  a 
few    years    before    the    arrival    of   the    Spaniards. 

As  for  the  Perez  manuscript,  which  was  written  by  a 
native  from  memory  long  after  the  Conquest,  purporting  to 
be  the  faithful  rendering  ot  legends  handed  down  from  mouth 
to  mouth,  in  a  particular  family,  it  adds  nothing  to  our 
knowledge,  throws  no  light  on  the  question  which  perplexes 
us.  The  narrative  begins  from  144  a.d.,  and  goes  on  to 
1560  A.D.  ;  but  Is  it  possible  to  admit  seriously  the  authority 
of  an  account  so  obtained,  extending  over  so  many  centuries  ? 
At  the  time  of  its  publication  all  the  natives  had  preserved 
was  a  dubious  legend ;  and  traditions  fared  hardly  better  with 
the  caciques  and  nobles  fallen  from  their  high  estate,  than 
they  did  with  the  common  people,  for  "  the  former  were  often 
reduced,"  says  Cogolludo,  "to  the  extreme  of  poverty;  and  forty 
years  after  the  Conquest  (1582)  the  royal  descendants  of 
Tutulxiu,  and  the  princely  house  of  Mayapan,  were  obliged  to 
work  for  their  living  like  the  humblest  amongst  their  ancient 
subjects."^' 

This  picture,  sad  as  it  is,  became  even  worse  a  few  years 
later,  when  the  conquerors  had  reduced  the  whole  population 
to  a  state  of  hard  bondage.  The  only  difference  of  any 
importance  between  the  Perez  manuscript  and  the  narratives 
of  Clavigero,  Veytia,  and  Ixtlilxochltl,  is  in  the  chronology, 
which     is     far     too     absurd     for     any    serious    consideration,    for 


Cogolludo,  tome  I.  lib.  iv.  cap.  iii. 


IZAMAL    EN    ROUTE    FOR    ClIICHEN,  315 

while  the  latter  gives  the  seventh  century  as  the  date  of  the 
arrival  of  the  Toltecs  at  Tula,  and  their  subsequent  migration 
in  Central  America  at  the  end  of  the  eleventh  and  the 
beginning  of  the  twelfth  century  ;  with  the  former  they  leave 
Tula  in  144  a.d.,  and  arrive  in  Yucatan  in  217  a.d,,  nearly  five 
hundred  years  before  the  generally  accepted  date  of  their  arrival 
at  Tula.  Moreover  he  calls  Yucatan  an  island,  although  the 
new-comers  had  penetrated  the  country  through  Tabasco  and 
the  south  without  crossing  the  sea,  clearly  indicating  that  it 
was   a   peninsula. 

The  church  of  Izamal  is  very  fine,  but  its  chief  attrac- 
tion in  the  eyes  of  the  natives  is  a  statue  of  the  Virgin. 
Its  story  runs  thus  : 

A  celebrated  artist  of  Guatemala  received  an  order  from 
the  towns  of  Izamal  and  Merida  respectively,  for  two 
statues  of  the  Virgin  ;  in  their  transit,  which  took  place  in  the 
rainy  season,  neither  the  case  containing  the  images,  nor  the 
men  conveying  them,  got  a  drop  of  rain.  Valladolid,  jealous 
that  so  small  a  place  as  Izamal  should  possess  this  fine 
statue,  came  in  great  force  and  carried  it  off.  but  the  image 
proved  stronger  than  all  those  men  put  together,  for  it 
became  so  heavy  that  it  had  to  be  abandoned  at  the  out- 
skirts of  the  little  town.  The  miracle  was  followed  by  a  great 
many  more,  so  that  the  Izamal  Virgin  was  soon  the  most 
celebrated  in  the  peninsula,  attracting  as  many  pilgrims  as 
did  formerly  Kab-Ul,  of  the  Miraculous   Hand. 

We  set  off  at  five  in  the  morning  for  Valladolid,  to  avoid 
the  overpowering  heat  of  the  day  ;  indeed,  all  traffic 
between  May  and  September  in  these  tropical  regions  is  done 
by  night,  for  the  greater  comfort  of  both  man  and  beast.  We 
watch  the  sun  rise  in  the  east,  but  far  from  enlivening 
the    scene,    it    seems    only    to    bring    out    in    stronger    relief    the 


3i6  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


desolateness  of  the  landscape.  A  few  carts  with  natives  on  their 
way  home  shivering  with  the  night  cold,  a  wretched  tumble- 
down hamlet  called  Stilipech,  is  all  we  notice  on  our  route ; 
and  indeed  we  have  much  to  do  with  keeping  our  seats  in 
these  volan  cochds,  which  rattle  along  at  so  furious  a  pace 
on  these  atrocious  roads,  as  to  make  us  wonder  what  power 
keeps  them  from  being  smashed  to  pieces. 

I  had  had  suspicion  during  my  stay  at  Merida  as  to 
Yucatan  having  any  postal  or  telegraphic  administration,  for 
a  number  of  my  telegrams  were  left  unanswered,  and  my 
inquiries  were  met  with  the  evasive  reply  that  the  line  was 
not  in  good  order.  That  such  was  the  case  I  could  now 
plainly  see  for  myself.  A  wire  which  skirted  the  wood  had 
indeed  been  laid,  but  having  no  poles  or  insulators  it  trusted 
to  fate  to  get  fixed  now  and  again  to  a  branch  or  a  tree, 
which,  bending  with  the  breeze,  allowed  it  to  trail  among 
the  rocks  or  get  entangled  in  the  brambles.  Wonderful  to 
relate,  a  message  sometimes  reached  its  destination  ;  a  great 
step  forward  as  compared  to  Tabasco,  where  no  sooner  is 
the  wire  laid  than  it  is  purloined  by  the  inhabitants,  who,  it 
seems,  find  it  useful.  But  our  volan  .suddenly  stops,  and  the 
driver  draws  our  attention  to  an  important  cenote  known  as 
Xcolac,  shaded  by  beautiful  trees  and  full  of  fish.  On  its 
banks  a  number  of  Indians  are  filling  their  gourds  to  the 
brim,  and  with  simple  grace  offer  us  a  drink  of  its  cool, 
fresh  pure  water.  It  argues  strange  apathy  in  the  natives 
that  in  a  country  where  water  is  so  scarce,  a  hamlet  or 
hacienda  should  not  have  been  erected  around  it.  We  re-enter 
our  cochds  and  reach  Tumbras,  formerly  a  nourishing  place, 
about  eleven  o'clock  ;  it  was  burnt  down  durinof  the  civil 
wars  and  has  not  been  rebuilt.  We  aliirht  before  a  decent- 
looking     house,    having     a    tienda     stocked     with    salt,    tobacco, 


IZAMAL    EN    ROUTE    EOR    ClIICHEN. 


517 


wine,  liqueurs,  preserves,  sardines,  and  American  hams.  For 
whom  are  all  these  good  things  ?  I  was  going  to  ask,  when 
I   recollected  that  a  garrison  is  stationed  here. 

Our  host,  a  fat,  red-faced  man,  receives  us  with  a  profusion 
of  smiles,  putting  "everything  in  his  house  at  our  feet."  Warned 
by  sad  experience,  feeling,  moreover,  as  hungry  as  schoolboys 
after  a  game  of  cricket,  we  stammered  out  for  the  usual  "  portion" 


CENOT^  OF    XCOLAC. 


in  the  shortest  possible  delay,  but  what  was  our  agreeable  sur- 
prise to  find  a  jucmc  consisting  of  strong  clear  soup,  a  sardine 
omelette,  beefsteak,  French  beans,  wine,  English  beer,  and 
excellent  coffee ! 

Meanwhile  the  commander,  who  had  received  instructions 
with  regard  to  our  mission,  came  in  just  as  we  were  sitting  down ; 
he  was  immediately  invited  to  join  our  party,  which  he  did  with 
alacrity,  for  the  life  of  an  officer  quartered  in  this  out-of-the-way 
place,  without  a  soul  to  speak  to  from  year's  end  to  year  s  end, 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


whose  sole  business  consists  in  the  morning  and  evening  parades, 
or  giving  the  order  of  the  day,  must  be  indescribably  monotonous 
and  trying  in  the  extreme. 

The  presence  of  our  volan  has  set  the  village  in  motion  ;  soon 
a  number  of  people  are  seen  crossing  the  deserted  plaza  in  our 
direction  :  some  are  old  and  decrepit,  and  all  look  as  though 
they  could  hardly  stand  on  their  rickety  legs,  for  the  able-bodied 
men  are  in  the  fields  preparing  the  milpa,  cleaning  the  ground  for 
the  sowing  of  Indian  corn.  They  invade  the  tienda,  peering  into 
our  room  ;  the  boldest  advances  with  rolling  gait,  to  have  a  nearer 
view  of  our  group,  delivering  himself  of  a  little  speech  in  the  Maya 
tongue,  presumably  indiscreet,  to  judge  by  the  amused  smiles  of  the 
company.  The  commandant  desires  him  to  leave  the  room,  but  he 
refuses,  and  has  to  be  ejected  by  the  united  efforts  of  two  orderlies. 

Refreshed  with  our  excellent  luncheon,  our  pleasant  chat,  and 
last,  not  least,  a  respite  from  the  too  lively  cochd,  we  set  out,  and 
do  not  stop  again  until  we  reach  Ouintana-Roo,  sometimes  used 
as  a  basis  by  the  revolted  natives  in  their  expeditions,  whence 
they  sallied  forth  for  their  razzias,  carrying  off  the  women,  and 
massacring  the  men,  except  in  the  rare  instances  when  a  large 
ransom  might  be  looked  for  ;  this,  however,  did  not  always  save 
the  poor  wretch,  who,  his  money  being  paid,  was  ruthlessly 
butchered  by  these  savages. 

Ouintana  is  about  as  small  a  place  as  can  be  conceived,  con- 
sisting of  one  small  fort  garrisoned  by  twelve  men,  and  one 
house  ;  in  the  landlord  of  the  latter  I  recognise  my  old  guide, 
who  in  1859  accompanied  me  to  Chichen.'  My  old  acquaintance 
is  now  a  prosperous  man,  with  a  nice  house,  a  tienda  and  poultry- 
yard  well  stocked,  while  a  comely  wife,  lovely  children,  and 
pretty  Meztizas,  attend  to  the  business  of  the  household  and 
enliven  it.  My  friend  insists  on  our  having  some  chocolate,  and 
wishes  to  be  again  our  guide  to  Chichen.      I   am  delighted,  and 


IZAMAL    EN    ROUTE    FOR    ClIICIIEN.  319 

with  expressions  of  mutual  regard  we  take  leave  of  this  charming 
family,  en  route  for  Citas,  where  we  arrive  so  late  in  the  evening 
that  everybody  had  given  us  up,  so  that  nothing  had  been  pre- 
pared, and  the  people  did  not  seem  inclined  to  bestir  themselves 
for  us.  No  house  or  room  was  to  be  had.  It  was  fortunately 
holiday  time ;  the  school-room  was  placed  at  our  disposal,  in 
which  we  at  once  deposited  our  camp-beds  and  other  para- 
phernalia. The  next  thing  was  how  to  get  something  to  eat, 
and  we  should  have  gone  supperless  to  bed,  if  the  magistrate 
and  the  mayor  had  not  kindly  interfered  in  our  behalf,  and 
partly  by  coaxing,  partly  by  the  weight  of  their  authority,  induced 
the  people  to  bring  out  the  contents  of  their  larder. 

Here  we  leave  the  volan  for  saddle-horses,  mules,  and 
tamenes,  for  our  next  stage  is  through  thick  woods  right 
across  country.  Our  preparations  take  a  good  deal  of  time ; 
horses  are  scarce  and  have  to  come  some  distance,  while  tamenes 
must  be  brought  down  from  their  extravagant  prices  before 
we  can  think  of  engaging  them.  The  same  difficulties  have 
beset  us  everywhere ;  the  natives  deeming  fair  game  any  one 
so  insane  or  ridiculous  as  to  come  from  distant  lands  to  view 
some  crumbling  stones  ;  of  course  he  has  more  money  than 
he  knows  what  to  do  with,  and  it  is  only  common  justice 
to  ease  him  of  some  of  his  surplus.  We  despatch  our  men  a 
day  in  advance  to  open  the  way  through  the  woods,  while  we 
tarry  to  witness  a  jardana,  native  dance,  to  which  an  invitation 
in  due  form,  that  we  "  would  honour  the  same  with  our  presence," 
has  been  received. 

"  What,  you  dance  here } "  I  exclaimed  on  first  hearing  of 
it ;  "  but  you  told  me  that  your  life  and  property  were  continually 
threatened  ;  that  you  never  knew  when  you  lay  down  at  night 
whether  you  would  not  be  massacred  by  your  revolted  countrymen, 
ere  another  day  dawned." 


320  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

"  That's  quite  true,"  answered  my  servant,  "  but  we  dance 
for  all  that,  and  as  often  as  we  have  the  opportunity.  Why 
should  we  neglect  to  cull  the  few  flowerets  growing  on  the  short, 
dreary  path  of  our  life  ?  " 

I  confess  that  I  was  not  prepared  for  so  much  philosophy 
in  such  a  place,  and  from  such  a  man,  savouring  of  a  ci-devant 
at  the  time  of  the  Convention  rather  than  of  a  half-savage. 

The  streets  of  Citas  might  not  improperly  be  called  ridges 
of  rock  divided  by  minute  precipices,  down  which,  however,  a 
stranger  may  break  his  neck.  To  avoid  so  great  a  calamity, 
we  set  out  holding  on  to  two  native  guides  by  means  of  ropes 
tied  round  our  waist,  for  the  night  is  pitch  dark,  and  the  distance 
to  the  jardana  some  500  yards. 

The  house  in  which  the  entertainment  is  q-iven  wears  a 
poor  appearance.  Three  huge  fires  are  burning,  round  which 
stand  women  busy  with  roasting  and  otherwise  preparing  the 
feast  with  chickens,  turkeys,  pork,  etc.  ;  whilst  outside,  other 
women  are  kneeling  before  meiates,  or,  comals  in  hand,  prepare 
tortillas  to  be  served  hot  during  the  whole  "fiesta."  A  little 
in  front  is  a  thatched  barn,  lighted  by  smoking  lamps,  which  forms 
the  ball-room,  with  benches  and  chairs  against  the  walls  for  the 
ladies,  while  in  the  centre  the  men  dancers  in  white  hose,  flowing 
shirt,  and  loose  coloured  neckties,  are  meditating  on  whom  their 
choice  may  fall  with  any  chance  of  success.  The  whole  village, 
Indians  and  Meztizos,  are  here  to-night,  but  hardly  any  Ladinos 
or  whites. 

Every  traveller  who  has  witnessed  these  native  dances,  has 
described  them  as  entrancing  ;  for  my  part  I  confess  that  I  find 
them  devoid  of  attraction :  the  performers,  without  grace  or 
animation,  move  gravely  on  one  spot,  without  looking  at  or  touching 
their  partners,  going  round  them  as  they  would  a  pole,  to  the 
sound  oi  very  primitive  and  monutunous  music. 


IZAMAL    EN    ROUTE    FOR    ChICIIKN.  32 1 

"  It  is  an  Indian  who  gives  the  entertainment,"  said  my  friend 
the  judge.  "It  will  last  several  days,  or  rather  several  nights, 
and  cost  at  least  sixty  pounds,  which  to  a  native  is  a  fortune — ruina- 
tion in  fact — but  he  will  not  care,  and  after  him  another  will  be 
found  to  take  up  the  ball,  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  time." 

"  But  what  happens  afterwards  ?  " 

"  Oh,  nothing  happens  ;  they'll  go  to  their  milpas  as  before  ; 
if  the  harvest  is  good  they  will  lay  by  a  little  in  view  of  another 
party  when  their  turn  comes  round  ;  if  it  is  a  bad  year,  they'll 
pinch ;  if  a  famine,  they'll  starve.  Care  never  sits  behind  an 
Indian,  and  as  for  the  lessons  of  experience,  they  seem  incapable 
of  learning  them." 

In  these  entertainments  may  be  traced  the  customs  of  the 
ancient  Indians  which  are  unconsciously  kept  up  by  their 
descendants.  We  read  in  Landa  :  "  They  often  spent  in  one 
banquet  what  they  had  been  a  long  time  earning  with  difficulty. 
Banquets  were  of  two  kinds  :  those  given  by  the  caciques  and 
great  nobles  to  their  friends  for  the  mere  pleasure  of  showing 
their  hospitality,  when  they  expected  to  be  asked  in  return.  The 
table  on  all  such  occasions  was  well  provided  with  meats,  game, 
vegetables,  and  fruit  of  every  kind,  and  at  the  conclusion  of 
the  entertainment,  the  guests  were  presented  with  rich  dresses 
and  ornaments,  when  they  withdrew  after  midnight."  "If  one 
died  before  the  debt  of  his  obligation  had  been  paid,  the  duty 
fell  to  his  family.  Next  came  the  occasions  when  a  marriage 
occurred  in  a  family,  or  when  the  illustrious  deeds  of  an  ancestor 
were  celebrated  by  the  whole  clan.  On  such  occasions  the 
necessity  of  returning  the  banquet  was  not  enforced  ;  but  if  a 
person  belonging  to  another  family  had  been  asked,  he  was 
expected  to  invite  them  all  again  when  he  married."'" 


*  Landa,  vol.  xxn.  p.  125. 


322 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


There  is  positively  nothing  worthy  of  remark  with  regard 
to  our  road,  save  here  and  there  a  pahii  or  cedar-tree  towering 
hke  a  giant  over  the  thick  underwood  overrun  with  flowering 
hanas,  peopled  with  great  sky-blue  butterflies,  whose  wings 
are  tipped  with  black  ;  for  the  whole  country  to  the  east  and 
south  of  Citas  is  a  vast  scene  of  desolation.  Piste,  where  we 
arrive,  stands  on  the  extreme  border  of  the  state  ;  it  has  been 
so  often  sacked  and  burnt  by  the  revolted  natives,  that  the 
only  building  left  is  the  church,  occupied  by  a  company  of  twenty- 
five  men.  It  looks  a  forsaken,  God-forgotten  place,  a  veritable 
exile  for  the  small  garrison  quartered  here  in  turn  for  three 
months  in  the  year ;  not  that  there  is  any  immediate  danger, 
for  the  natives,  who  first  rose  to  conquer  their  liberties,  fell 
to  massacring  from  a  spirit  of  revenge,  and  now  only  take  the 
field  for  the  sake  of  plunder.  We  have  nothing  to  tempt  their 
cupidity,  consequently  our  escort  of  fifty  men  is  a  measure  of 
prudence  rather  than  of  necessity. 


CHURCH   AND  SQUARF,  CITAS. 


v^^->^ 


^■'<gi!^c«aa'^A>tKi^>^>.  - 


,.iu4^> 


EL   CASTILLO  OF   CHICHEN-ITZA. 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 


CHICHEN-ITZA. 


Chichen-Itza — El  Castillo — General  Survey — A  Maya  City — Aguilar — Historical 
Jottings — Montejo's  Expedition — Historians — Their  Contradictions — Chichen 
Deserted — ^The  Conqueror's  Retreat — The  Nunnery — Impressions  and  Photo- 
graphs— Terrestrial  Haloes — An  Unexpected  Visitor — Electric  Telegraph — 
Akab-Sib— Prison — Caracol — Cenotes — Ruined  Temples — The  Temple  of 
the  Sacred  Cenote — Tennis-Court — Monuments  Described — Portico— Paintings 
— Bas-reliefs— New  Analogy — The  Tlalocs  of  Chichen  and  of  the  Uplands — 
Market-place — End  of  Our  Labours — Col.  Triconis. 

The  ruins  ot  Chichen  are  two  miles  east  of  Piste,  and  were  used 
as  pasture  for  the  cattle  of  the  inhabitants,  who  at  stated  periods 
had  the  woods  cut  down,  when  the  monuments  were  easily 
distinguished.      It  was  a  favourite  place,  to  the  prejudice  of  the 

Y    2 


324  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

palaces  and  the  sculptures,  which  were  made  the  butt  by  the 
visitors  to  shoot  at ;  but  since  the  destruction  of  Piste,  nature 
again  reigns  supreme ;  every  sign  of  the  buildings  has  dis- 
appeared, and  the  jungle  has  become  so  impassable,  that  twenty 
men  were  required  to  open  the  old  path. 

This  was  not  my  first  visit  to  Chichen,  nevertheless  my 
emotion  was  profound  on  beholding  again  the  gigantic  outline  of 
El  Castillo,  which  we  had  decided  beforehand  should  be  our  head- 
quarters, as  from  its  elevated  position  it  offered  many  strategical 
advantages,  which  would  secure  us  against  surprise.  It  was 
with  considerable  difficulty  that  we  climbed  the  steps,  which  are 
steep  and  completely  invaded  by  a  vigorous  vegetation ;  as  for 
our  great  quantity  of  baggage,  none  but  nimble,  sure-footed 
natives  could  have  succeeded  in  hauling  it  up  on  to  the  platform 
of  the  monument. 

Our  next  thought  was  how  to  dispose  of  ourselves.  The 
interior  of  El  Castillo  consists  of  a  rectangular  corridor,  running 
along  two-thirds  of  the  edifice,  pierced  east,  south,  and  west  by 
three  large  apertures,  and  a  gallery  giving  access  to  a  great  hall 
closed  in  on  every  side.  We  very  stupidly  gave  up  the  latter 
to  our  men,  with  the  idea  that  we  should  be  cooler  and  have 
more  air  in  the  open  gallery,  not  taking  into  consideration  that 
at  this  altitude,  whichever  way  the  wind  blew,  it  would  sweep 
in  upon  us  in  fearful  blasts,  causing  perpetual  sneezing,  coughing, 
and  freezing  the  very  life  out  of  us. 

The  day  was  spent  unpacking  and  classifying,  and  at  supper- 
time  we  discovered  that  our  cook,  who  was  to  have  come  from 
Valladolid,  had  failed  us  ;  food  we  had  in  tins,  but  no  water, 
having  left  our  cantaros  at  Citas,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to 
go  without  soup,  coffee,  or  our  evening  tub. 

It  may  seem  unworthy  to  have  been  put  out  by  such 
trivial   details    with    the   grand    spectacle    we   had    before  us :    a 


Ciiiciien-Itza.  325 


glorious  moon  had  risen,  sailing  on  her  course  with  her  brilliant 
retinue  of  scintillating  stars,  Illuminating  the  vast  wooded  ex- 
panse, like  a  boundless,  heaving  ocean  on  a  calm  day  ;  fragments 
of  walls,  mounds,  eminences,  shrouded  in  a  sombre  vegetation, 
were  distinctly  visible,  which  I  pointed  out  one  by  one  to 
my  companions  who,  unlike  myself,  beheld  them  for  the  first 
time.  El  Castillo  occupies  nearly  the  centre  of  the  ruins  ; 
below  It  to  the  east  was  the  Market-place,  and  two  small 
palaces  which  belonged  to  it  ;  to  the  north,  a  stately  but 
ruinous  building,  the  cenote  and  the  temple  attached  ;  to  the 
north-west,  the  famous  Tennis-court ;  to  the  west  and  south- 
west, the  Chichan-Chob,  the  Caracol  and  the  other  cenote,  the 
Nuns'  Palace,  the  Akab-SIb ;  and  farther  south,  the  hacienda, 
which  has  long  been  abandoned. 

We  were  conversing  in  subdued  tones  of  the  mysterious 
past  of  this  dead  city,  which  mayhap  our  studies  and  explora- 
tions would  bring  to  life  again  ;  all  was  hushed,  and  the 
death-like  silence  was  only  broken  at  regular  Intervals  by  the 
cry  of  our  sentinels  ;  and  these  very  cries  carried  us  back  to 
the  far-gone  days,  when  the  city  was  perhaps  similarly  guarded 
against  a  sudden  Inroad  from  her  jealous  neighbours. 

The  morning  effects  of  light  and  shade  were  no  less 
beautiful  ;  the  broad  level  wrapped  In  a  transparent  mist, 
pierced  here  and  there  by  the  pyramids  and  the  wooded 
eminences,  looked  like  a  whitening  sea  Interspersed  with  green 
Islets ;  while  the  horizon  was  gilded  with  the  brightness  of 
the  rising  sun,  who  seemed  to  create,  to  raise  suddenly  mto 
life  all  the  objects  touched  with  his  golden  wand ;  presently, 
like  a  mighty  giant  he  tore  asunder  and  burnt  up  the  white 
vapour,  and  lit  up  the  whole  sky. 

Meanwhile,  our  unpacking  and  our  plans  for  the  Immediate 
future  are   almost    completed ;    the  cantaros    have    come,   and   as 


326  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

water  is  one  of  our  great  requirements,  as  the  cenote  is  at  some 
distance,  and  there  are  ninety  steps  to  our  abode,  ten  men 
are  told  off  for  it ;  other  ten  are  set  to  cleaning  the  place, 
while  an  equal  number  will  open  up  the  paths  and  clear  the 
monuments  we  wish  to  explore. 

Here   it   may  be   remarked   that  Yucatan   had   centres   rather 
than    cities ;    for    the    groups    of    dwellings  and  palaces  we  find 
resemble    in    no    way    our   cities    of    the    present    day,    although 
they  are  continually  compared  to  Spanish  places,  notably  Sevilla, 
by    the    conquerors.      They   consist   everywhere    of  temples  and 
palaces,    either   of   the    reigning    prince    or    caciques,    of    public 
edifices  scattered  about,   apparently   at   random,   covering  a  vast 
area,  with    cemented    roads   and   gardens   intervening,    while    the 
avenues    were    occupied    by    the    dwellings    of    dependents    and 
slaves.     This    is    borne  out  by   Landa,   who  says:    "Before    the 
arrival  of  the   Spaniards  the  aborigines  lived  in  common,   were 
ruled  by  severe  laws,  and  the  lands  were  cultivated  and  planted 
with  useful  trees.     The   centre   of  their  towns   was   occupied  by 
the  temples  and  squares,  round  which  were  grouped  the  palaces 
of   the    lords    and   the  priests,   and   so  on   in  successive  order  to 
the    outskirts,    which    were    allotted    to    the    lower   classes.     The 
wells,    necessarily    few,    were    found    close    to    the    dwellings    of 
the    nobles,    who    lived    in    close    community    for    fear    of    their 
enemies,    and    not    until  tlie    time    of   the    Spaniards    did    they 
take  to  the   woods."* 

These  last  words  plainly  indicate  the  sudden  desertion  of 
Indian  cities   at  the  coming  of  the   Spaniards. 

The  word  used  by  Landa  is  pueblo,  "  hamlet,"  meaning, 
perhaps,  town  ;  at  all  events,  it  shows  that  even  after  the 
breaking   up   of   the    Maya   empire  (from    great   provinces)    into 


*  I.anda,  "  Relacion  de  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan,"  sec.  xv.  p.  91. 


Ciiiciien-It/.a.  327 

small  independent  principalities,  the  people  had  preserved  their 
ancient  customs.  Chichen-Itza,  "the  mouth  of  the  wells,"  from 
the  two  cenotes  around  which  the  town  was  built,  is  more  recent 
than  Izamal  or  Ake,  but  older  than  Uxmal,  although  it  belongs, 
like  the   latter,  to  the  "cut  stone  period." 

Our  information  respecting  it  is  of  the  vaguest,  and  Aguilar 
and  Montejo  are  equally  silent  on  the  subject,  while  E.  Ancona 
is  of  opinion  that  the  greater  portion  of  the  writings  and 
documents  treating  of  the  conquest  of  Yucatan  have  been 
lost,  or  at  any  rate  have  escaped  our  investigations.  Never- 
theless, we  find  in  a  letter  of  Montejo  to  the  King  of  Spain, 
April  13th,  1529,  published  by  Brinton.  of  Philadelphia,  from 
the  unpublished  documents  and  archives  of  the  Indies,  this 
remarkable  passage:  "This  region  is  covered  with  great  and 
beautiful  cities  and  a  dense  population"  ("ciudades  muy  frescas," 
recent,  new).  Could  he  have  expressed  more  clearly  that 
the  cities  he  had  visited  were  lately  built  ?  Can  these  places 
have  disappeared  and  left  no  trace  ?  Who  were  the  builders 
of  the  noble  ruins  that  have  filled  with  admiration  every 
one  who  has  visited  them  ? 

Unfortunately,  whether  we  consult  the  traditions  collected  too 
late,  or  the  Perez  manuscript  with  its  doubtful  dates,  we  find  no 
certain  data  to  go  upon  ;  in  the  latter  we  read  that  the  Toltecs 
travelled  in  360  from  Bacalar  (Ziyancan)  to  Chichen  ;  left  it  in 
452  to  return  in  888,  when  they  remained  until  936;  that  a 
governor  of  Chichen  was  defeated  in  1258  by  a  prince  ot 
Mayapan,  etc.  ;  in  fact,  a  mere  roll  of  obscure  names  without  any 
meaning.  If  we  would  find  an  ascertained  historical  fact,  v;e 
must  turn  to  CogoUudo  and  Landa,  who  wrote  from  1420  to  1460, 
where  the  Chichemec  exodus  is  recorded,  corresponding  to  the 
capture  and  destruction  of  Mayapan. 

The  cause  of  this  emigration  (or  elopement,   since  there  was 


328  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


a  lady  in  the  case)  is  thus  told  by  Cogolludo :  "  A  king  of 
Chichen,  called  Canek  (a  generic  name  of  the  sovereigns  of  the 
Iztaes),  fell  desperately  in  love  with  a  young  princess,  who, 
whether  she  did  not  return  his  affection,  or  whether  she  was 
obliged  to  obey  a  parent's  mandate,  married  a  more  powerful 
Yucatec  cacique.  The  discarded  lover,  unable  to  bear  his  loss, 
moved  by  love  and  despair,  armed  his  dependents  and  suddenly 
fell  upon  his  successful  rival ;  when  the  gaiety  of  the  feast  was 
exchanged  for  the  din  of  war,  and  amidst  the  confusion  the 
Chichen  prince  disappeared,  carrying  off  the  beautiful  bride.  But 
conscious  that  his  power  was  less  than  his  rival's,  and  fearing 
his  vengeance,  he  fled  the  country  with  most  of  his  vassals."  '" 

Thus  runs  the  legend ;  the  historical  fact  is  that  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Chichen  did  emigrate,  and  did  establish  in  the  Peten 
lagoons,  one  hundred  leagues  to  the  south,  a  little  principality  with 
Tayasal  for  its  capital,  seen  by  Cortez  in  his  journey  to  Honduras, 
and  brought  under  the  Spanish  sway  as  late  as  1696.  That  a 
whole  population  should  abandon  their  native  city,  is  an  example 
of  the  facility  with  which  these  peoples  moved  from  one  place 
to  another  at  a  moment's  notice ;  nevertheless,  we  cannot  accept 
the  reasons  given  by  Cogolludo  for  this  migration,  so  little  in 
accordance  with  the  deep-seated  love  of  the  Mayas  for  their 
country.  It  is  more  likely  that  one  or  a  series  of  calamities 
incident  to  a  primitive  race,  such  as  war,  pestilence,  famine,  more 
or  less  periodical  among  the  aborigines,  was  the  true  cause  of 
their  migration. 

One  thing  is  clear,  that  Chichen  was  inhabited  scarcely  sixty 
years  before  the  Conquest,  when  her  monuments  were  entire  ; 
and  it  is  equally  clear  that  a  city  possessed  of  two  considerable 
cenotes,   so  important    in  a  country  without  water,  was   not  left 


*  Cogolludo,  tome  i.  lib.  iv.  cap.  xiv.     Campeche  Edition,  1842, 


Chichen-Itza.  329 


uninhabited,  and  that   the  vacuum   left   by  the  exodus  was  soon 
filled    up,  the  city  preserving  its   normal   existence  down   to  the 
time  of  the  Spaniards.      I  am  well  aware  that  this  kind  of  evidence 
will  not  suit  people   fond   of  the   marvellous,  yet   the   paucity  of 
documents  allows  us  only  a  tentative  theory,   but  it  will  be  our 
care  to  collect  probabilities  in  such  vast  numbers,  knitting  them 
into  a  cumulative  whole  by  a  patient  comparison  of  monuments, 
sculptures,  bas-reliefs,  customs,  arms,  and    public  ceremonies,  so 
as    to    make    the    evidence    absolute.       Had    Aguilar,    who    was 
wrecked  and  made    prisoner  on  this  coast,   and  lived  for  nearly 
eight    years    as    factotum    of    a    powerful    cacique,    been    more 
observant,  we  might  have  a  graphic  and  thorough  description  of 
the  public  and   private   life  among  the  Mayas  ;  but  like  the  rest 
of  his  countrymen,  his  ideas   were   turned   into   quite   a  different 
channel,  so  much  so  that    he  has   not  even   recorded   the   name 
of  the  place  where   later   Cortez    found    him.      Ancona   tells   us 
that    the    conquest   of  Yucatan   was   hastened    by   Aguilar,   who, 
when    in    Mexico    with    Cortez,    persuaded    Montejo    that    "the 
region    was    fertile   and    covered    with    magnificent    monuments " 
— words  of  paramount  importance,  since  Aguilar  could  not  have 
mentioned   them   in  such  terms,   had   they  been   in   ruins  or   hid 
away  in  the  woods.      It  may  also  be  inferred  from  the  incessant 
mutual  warfare  of  the  caciques,  that  the  country  had  lost  its  unity 
and  was  split  up  into  several  provinces,  which  Herrera  says  were 
"eighteen  in  number  covered  with  stately  edifices."*     According 
to  the  same  authority  Montejo  had  a  return  of  the  whole  popula- 
tion taken,   that  he  might  apportion   them   among   his   followers, 
when  every  one  received  no  less  than  two  or  three  thousand.! 
This,  however,  is  obviously  a  gross  exaggeration,    for  supposing 
the   400    soldiers  of   Montejo    to    have    dwindled    down    to    t,oo, 

*  Herrera,  "Hist,  Gen.,"  Decade  IV.  lib.  x.  cap.  ii.       f  Il>id.  lib.  vii.  cap.  iv. 


330  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

the  mean  population  of  the  district  would  have  amounted  to 
750,000,  which  is  quite  impossible.*  At  all  events,  the  Spaniards 
occupied  Chichen-Itza  for  two  years,  but  nothing  is  known  of 
their  doings,  for  Montejo  was  no  writer,  nor  did  he,  like  Cortez, 
have  chroniclers  to  record  his  deeds.  At  first  the  submission 
of  the  natives  was  complete  ;  but  after  a  time  they  rallied  from 
the  stupor  into  which  the  unparalleled  success  of  the  Spaniards 
had  plunged  them,  and  tiring  of  ministering  to  the  insatiable  wants 
of  the  Spanish  marauders,  who  consumed  in  one  day  what  would 
have  kept  in  comfort  a  native  family  for  a  month,  they  disappeared, 
and  the  Spaniards  were  soon  reduced  to  foraging  in  distant 
villages.  This  gave  rise  to  daily  skirmishes  and  a  more  active 
hatred  on  the  part  of  the  Indians  against  the  foreigners,  until 
at  last  exasperated,  relying  moreover  on  their  numerical  strength, 
they  came  in  great  numbers  and  laid  siege  to  Chichen,  during 
which  the  Spaniards  lost  150  ol  their  number,  while  the  rest 
were  all  covered  with  wounds.  In  this  strait,  Montejo,  despairing 
of  holding  the  place  much  longer,  determined  to  evacuate  it ;  this 
it  was  not  easy  to  do,  for  the  whole  country  round  was  occupied 
by  the  Indians  ;  but  a  pitch-dark  night  seemed  to  favour  their 
flight :  Montejo  took  the  precaution  of  having  the  horses'  hoofs 
muffled,  not  to  arouse  the  natives'  suspicions  respecting  their  move- 
ments, while  he  left  a  dog  tied  to  a  pole  beneath  a  piece  of  meat 
with  a  bell  attached,  which  the  animal  rang  every  time  he  tried 
to  reach  the  prey,  thus  keeping  the  Indians  in  the  full  belief 
that  the  enemy  was  entrenched  behind  the  walls.  Only  on  the 
morrow  did  the  natives  find  out  their  mistake  ;  they  gave  instant 
but  unavailing  pursuit,  for  the  Spaniards  had  several  hours'  start 
of  them  and  were  able  to  reach  the  territory  of  a  friendly  cacique, 
not  far  from  their  own  ships. 


*   Landa  says  nearly  the  same. 


i 


Ciiiciien-Itza.  331 


To  return  to  our  excavations,  "  El  Palacio  de  las  Monjas," 
or  Nuns'  Palace,  is  one  of  the  most  important  monuments  at 
Chichen-Itza,  and  possesses  a  greater  number  of  apartments 
than  any  other.  Whether  the  name  is  due  to  this  circum- 
stance, or  from  its  traditionary  appellation,  is  uncertain  ;  but 
we  know  from  Mexican  writers  that  it  was  the  custom 
among  the  Aztecs  to  dedicate  girls  of  noble  birth  to  the 
service  of  the  gods,  on  their  attaining  the  age  of  twelve  or 
thirteen.  Some  remained  there  until  they  were  about  to  be 
married  ;  some  few  took  perpetual  vows ;  others,  on  account 
of  some  vow  they  had  made  during  sickness,  or  that  the  gods 
might  send  them  a  good  husband,  entered  the  Nunnery  for 
one,  two,  three,  or  four  years.  They  were  called  deaconesses 
or  sisters ;  they  lived  under  the  superintendence  of  staid 
matrons  of  good  character,  and  upon  entering  the  convent, 
each  girl  had  her  hair  cut  short.  They  all  slept  in  one 
dormitory,  and  were  not  allowed  to  undress  before  retiring  to 
rest,  that  they  might  always  be  ready  when  the  signal  was 
given  to  rise.  They  occupied  their  time  with  weaving  and 
embroidering  the  tapestry  and  ornamental  work  of  the  temple. 
They  rose  in  the  night  to  renew  the  incense  in  the  braziers, 
a  matron  leading  the  procession ;  the  maidens  with  eyes 
modestly  cast  down  filed  up  to  the  altar,  and  returned  in 
the  same  manner ;  they  fasted  often,  and  were  required  to 
sweep  the  temples  and  keep  a  constant  supply  of  fresh 
flowers  on  the  altars.  They  did  penance  for  the  slightest 
infringement  of  their  religious  rules  by  pricking  their  tongues 
and  ears  with  the  spines  of  the  maguey  plant.  Death  was  the 
punishment  of  the  Mexican  maiden  who  violated  her  vow  of 
chastity.  ■''" 

*  Sahagun,  Appendix  to  book  11.  p.  196;  book  vi.  chaps,  xxxix.  to  xl. 


^7,2  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

It  has  been  supposed,  from  the  latter  custom,  that  an  order 
of  Vestals,  similar  to  those  in  Rome,  existed  in  America,  but 
the  analogy  is  more  apparent  than  real.  According  to  Clavigero, 
priesthood  was  not  binding  for  life  among  the  Mayas.  Of 
the  different  male  and  female  religious  orders,  those  dedicated 
to  Ouetzalcoatl  deserve  particular  mention  ;  their  members  had 
to  submit  to  the  strictest  observances,  but  in  compensation 
the  people  paid  them  almost  divine  honours,  whilst  their 
power  and  influence  were  boundless.  Their  chief  or  superior 
bore  the  name  of  Ouetzalcoatl,  and  never  walked  abroad 
except  to  visit  some  royal  personage.""'  Thus  the  Nunnery 
may  very  well  have  been  both  a  convent  and  a  priestly 
abode.  It  is  not  a  considerable  pile,  the  facade  measuring 
only  some  29  feet  by  19  feet  6  inches  high,  while  its 
grotesque,  heavy  ornamentation  reminds  us  in  its  details 
of  a  Chinese  carving.  The  base  up  to  the  first  cornice 
is  occupied  by  eight  large  superimposed  idols,  and  four 
of  these  figures  are  enclosed  within  two  very  salient  cornices. 
The  door  is  crowned  with  a  medallion  representing  a  cacique 
or  priest  with  the  usual  head-dress  of  feathers,  the  inscrip- 
tion of  the  palace  and  stone  spires,  some  of  which  have 
entirely  disappeared,  while  the  outline  of  the  rest  is  much 
defaced.  The  whole  length  of  the  frieze  of  the  north  facade 
has  a  row  of  similar  gigantic  heads,  bearing  the  general 
characteristics  of  the  ornamentation  observable  throuorhout  this 
structure.  The  Nunnery  is  typical  of  the  Toltec  calli,  of  which 
we  gave  a  drawing  in  our  chapter  on  Tula.  The  left  wing  is 
but  26  feet  wide,  by  13  feet  deep,  and  about  32  feet  high  ;  it  con- 
sists of  three  cornices,  with  two  friezes  intervening  in  which  the 
same   designs  are   repeated ;    the  first   two  high-reliefs   represent 


Clavigero,  tome  i.  lib.  vii.  pp.  165,  i66,  1C7. 


Ciiiciien-Itza. 


stooping  figures,  one  having  his  body  locked  in  a  tortoise  shell, 
while  the  centre  and  the  sides  of  the  frieze  are  decorated  with 
grotesque  figures  like  those  of  the  main  facade,  which,  with 
small  variations,  are  the  same  throughout  the  peninsula.  As 
we  have  seen  in  a  former  chapter,  these  monstrous  masks  have 
been  called  elephants  by  Waldeck  and  others,  who  wished  to 
claim  a  fabulous  antiquity  for  these  monuments,  but  the  types 
they  most  resemble  are  the  Japanese  or  Chinese.  Here,  as  at 
Palenque,  the  upper  portion  of  the  wall  is  ornamented  so  as 
to  enhance  the  effect  of  height. 

The  main  body  of  the  Nunnery  rests  on  a  perpendicular 
pyramid,  the  platform  of  which  is  occupied  by  a  solidly  con- 
structed building,  intersected  with  small  apartments  having  two 
niches  facing  each  other,  traversed  by  a  corridor  running  trom 
east  to  west  of  the  pyramid.  Over  this  is  a  smaller  structure 
or  third  story.  The  first  platform  is  reached  by  a  steep,  broad 
stairway  50  feet  wide,  which  continues  with  additional  steps  to 
the  second  platform,  where  the  apartments  of  the  ruined  building 
were  but  cells.  The  ornamentation  of  the  first  story  differs 
from  that  of  other  buildings  at  Chichen  ;  it  consists  of  small 
sunk  panels,  having  in  the  centre  a  large  rose-like  device,  framed 
with  exquisitely  moulded  stones.  The  lintels,  likewise  of  stone, 
were  covered  with  sculptures  and  inscriptions  now  fallen  into 
decay  ;  we  could  only  collect  three,  and  even  these  are  much 
defaced.  In  this  building  are  curious  traces  of  masonry  out  of 
character  with  the  general  structure,  showing  the  place  to  have 
been  occupied  at  two  different  epochs. 

This  second  construction,  or  rather  restoration,  was  effected 
with  the  materials  of  the  ancient  building,  as  is  seen  in  the 
fragments  of  sculptured  stones  which  in  the  later  construction 
are  identical  with  those  of  the  first,  save  that  they  were  put 
up    haphazard,    so    that    the    systematic   ornamentation    of    the 


334 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


older  structure  is  no  longer  reproduced,  but  in  places  a  thick 
plaster  coating  was  laid  over  the  whole.  The  rebuilding  may 
have  been  the  work  of  the  aborigines,  since  we  know  that 
Chichen  was  abandoned  and  reoccupied  towards  the  middle 
of  the  fifteenth  century  ;  or,  more  likely  still,  the  clumsy  restora- 
tion   may    have    been    the    work    of   the    Spaniards    during    their 


%V '■''',  \\  ^v4,^^ 


¥^..'M 


rpy^}}!!.^ 


ORNAMENTATION   OF   THE   UPPER_STORY   OF^THE   NUNNERY,  CHICHEN-ITZA. 


sojourn  in  the  city,  when  the  Nunnery,  from  its  elevated  position, 
constituted  a  valuable  fortress.  Traces  of  their  passage  are 
observable  in  various  other  buildings,  notably  in  the  Castillo, 
where  their  natural  fanaticism,  coupled  with  their  ignorance, 
caused  them  to  see  in  the  portraiture  of  the  national  and  re- 
ligious life  of  the  Mayas,  representations  of  the  devil.  This  could 
not  be  suffered  to  remain,  and  as  they  were  unable  to  demolish 
the  temples  and  palaces  in  which    they  lived,   they  whitewashed 


Ciiiciien-Itza.  T^T^y 


the  ornamentation,  in  order  that  their  eyes  might  not  be 
constantly  offended  by  the  subjects  therein  represented. 

We  try  with  small  success  to  undo  their  savage  work  by 
means  of  daggers,  brushes,  and  repeated  washes,  taking  up 
much  time,  but  in  most  cases  the  relief  is  lost  to  science, 
being  much  too  defaced  to  allow  us  to  take  squeezes.  The 
idea  that  the  chiefs  who  erected  these  monuments  were  the 
authors  of  their  defacement  is  too  absurd  for  serious  consideration. 

The  Castillo,  or  rather  temple,*  is  reared  on  a  pyramid, 
facing  north  and  south,  and  is  the  most  interesting  monument 
at  Chichen  ;  its  four  sides  are  occupied  with  staircases,  facing 
the  cardinal  points.  Our  drawing  shows  the  western  facade. 
The  base  of  the  pyramid  measures  175  feet;  it  consists  of 
nine  small  esplanades,  narrowing  towards  the  top,  supported 
by  perpendicular  walls,  and  terminates  in  a  structure  about 
39  feet  on  one  side  by  21  feet  high.  The  upper  platform  is 
68  feet  above  the  level  of  the  plain,  having  a  flight  of  ninety 
steps,  39  feet  wide,  leading  up  to  it. 

The  name  of  El  Castillo  (the  fortress),  given  to  this  building 
is  appropriate  enough ;  since  throughout  Central  America, 
temples,  in  times  of  war,  became  real  strongholds,  on  whose 
gigantic  terraces  the  last  desperate  conflict  was  waged  against 
an  invading  and  victorious  foe.  The  struggle  might  last  some 
time,  but  was  always  attended  with  heavy  loss,  for  each 
terrace  had  to  be  carried  against  men  resolved  to  die.  In 
the  assault  on  the  great  temple  in  Mexico,  the  Spaniards  were 
several  times  repulsed  before  they  could  get  possession  of  the 
four  esplanades  of  the  pyramid  ;  and  when  these  were  taken 
a    fierce    encounter    followed     on     the     upper     platform,    which 

*  That  it  was  a  temple  may  be  inferred  from  Landa,  sec.  vi.  p.  34,  where 
he  says  that  the  main  e.difice  at  Chichen  was  called  Cukulcan,  after  a  prince 
who  had  come  from  the  west. 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


only  ended  with  the  utter  annihilation  of  the  Aztecs,  who  were 
either  slaughtered  on  the  spot  or  hurled  down  the  sides  of 
the  pyramid. 

The    only    decoration    of    the    western    and    southern    sides 
consists  in  two  beautiful  cornices,  while  the  interior  of  the  long 


ISOKTUEKN    I'ACADE   Ol<    THE    NUNNERY    Ul'   ClUCHEN-lTZA. 


corridor  shows  no  trace  of  ornamentation,  save  over  the  doors, 
where  gigantic  warriors  arc  sculptured.  The  principal  or 
northern  fa9ade  must  have  been  very  striking  when  Landa  saw 
it  in  1560.  Our  photograph  shows  its  dilapidated  condition,  but 
it  can  easily  be  reconstructed.  It  consists  of  a  portico  supported 
by  two  massive  columns  connected  by  wooden  lintels,  resembling 


LEFT    WING   OK    THE    NUNNERY    OF    CHICHEN-ITZA. 


Chichen-Itza.  341 


that  in  the  Nunnery  ;  this  [jortico  gives  access  to  a  gallery  which 
occupies  the  whole  width  of  the  building.  A  large  room,  which 
must  have  been  the  sanctuary,  is  entered  by  the  only  opening 
out  of  the  gallery,  while  two  pillars  with  square  capitals  supported 
a  double  corbel  vault.  Here  the  stairway  was  wider,  and  on 
each  side,  forming  a  balustrade,  is  a  gigantic  plumed  serpent, 
whose  head  and  protruding  tongue  run  down  the  balustrade.  All 
these  columns,  pillars,  and  wooden  lintels,  are  covered  with 
sculptures  and  bas-reliefs,  the  impressions  of  which  kept  us  closely 
at  work  for  several  days. 

As  in  Mexico,  Palenque,  and  Tula,  there  were  no  doors 
properly  so  called  at  Chichen,  and  no  traces  of  hinges  are  found  ; 
but  a  bamboo  or  wickerwork  screen  was  suspended  across  the 
entrance,  and  secured  at  night  with  a  bar.  The  inner  rooms 
were  divided  off  by  hangings,  which  probably  also  served  to 
cover  the  windows.  We  notice  everywhere  the  small  holes  in 
the  pillars  into  which  the  bars  fitted. 

Landa  mentions  the  two  serpents  of  the  grand  staircase,  and 
that  the  corridor  was  probably  used  for  burning  perfumes : 
"  Over  the  door  is  a  kind  of  coat-of-arms  sculptured  in  stone, 
which  I  could  not  read.  Extending  round  this  edifice  is  a 
series  of  solid  constructions  ;  the  intervening  distances  are 
coated  with  cement  in  perfect  condition,  which  looks  quite  new, 
so  hard  was  the  mortar  in  which  it  was  laid."*  These  stucco 
layers  are  facsimiles  of  those  at  Tula  and  Teotihuacan,  and 
characteristic  of  the  Toltecs.  In  the  three  centuries  that 
have  elapsed  since  the  bishop  visited  these  monuments,  vege- 
tation has  completely  over-run  them,  but  it  was  not  so  in  his 
time. 

It  was  in   this   temple   that   the  striking  analogy  between  the 


*  Landa,  "Relacion  de  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan,"  sec.  x!ii.  p.  34^ 


342 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


sculptures    and    the    bas-reliefs    of    the    plateaux    with    those    at 
Chichen  was  first  revealed    to    us ;    and    since   the   dates    of  the 


1  ArADE  OF   EL  CASTILLO,  CHICHEN-ITZA. 


y  ^th 


Toltec  emigrations  are  known,  we  can  fix  approximately  the  age 
of  these  monuments.  We  know,  on  the  other  hand,  that  the 
Aztec  civilisation  was  but  a  refiex  directly  derived  from  the 
Toltecs,  so  that  in  some  of  their  manifestations  the  two  civilisa- 


Ciiichen-Itza. 


343 


tions  must  resemble  each  other  ;  from  all  whicli  it  may  be  seen 
that  these  monuments  are  both  Toltec  and  recent.  The 
balustrade  on  the  grand  staircase  consists  of  a  plumed  serpent 
like  those  forming  the  outer  wall  of  the  temple  in  Mexico ;  an 
emblem    of   Quetzalcoatl,   a    deity    common    to    the    Toltecs,    the 


TOLTEC   COLUMN   IN   THE  CASTILLO. 


TOLTEC   COLUMN   AT   TULA. 


Aztecs,  and  the  Mayas.  He  is  often  found  on  Yucatec  buildings. 
In  Mexico,  a  serpent  biting  his  tail  was  a  favourite  design  with 
the  Aztecs  as  a  frieze  to  their  houses,  or  over  their  entrances, 
and  this  we  shall  also  observe  at  Uxmal.  Further,  the  two 
columns  of  the  temple  facade  furnish  a  still  more  striking 
example :  the  bases  represent  two  serpents'  heads,  whilst  the 
shafts   were  ornamented   with   feathers,   proving  that  the  temple 


;44 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


was  dedicated  to  Cukulcan  (Ouetzalcoatl).  These  shafts  are 
almost  an  exact  reproduction  of  a  Toltec  column  we  un- 
earthed at  Tula,  as  seen  in  our  cuts.  The  two  columns  are 
found  three  hundred  leagues  from  each  other,  separated  by  an 
interval  of  several  centuries  ;  but  if,  as  we  firmly  believe,  the 
Tula  column  is  Toltec,  the  other  must  be  so  too,  for  it  could 
not  be  the  result  of  mere  accident.  I  have  only  compared  the 
shafts,  for  the  simple  reason  that  the  Tula  column  has  no  capital. 

The  bas-relief  on 
y'Z"  >  the  capital  of  the  other 
consists  of  a  standing 
figure  .with  upraised 
arms  supporting  the 
entablature ;  he  wears 
large  bracelets,  huge 
feathers  form  his  head- 
dress, his  feet  are 
covered  with  shoes  fast- 
ened on  the  instep  by 
a  leather  knot,  a  collar 
of  precious  stones  is 
around  his  neck,  a 
richly  embroidered 
maxtli  falls  to  the  ground,  and  he  wears  the  long  fiowing  beard 
characteristic  of  Ouetzalcoatl. 

The  two  bas-reliefs  given  opposite  are  from  pillars  in 
the  sanctuary.  They  represent  figures  in  gala  costumes, 
one  of  which  is  distinguished  by  a  long  beard,  and  all  have 
the  aquiline  nose  ascribed  to  the  Toltecs.  These  pillars  are 
occupied  by  three  bas-reliefs,  a  large  one  in  the  centre  and 
two  smaller  at  each  side  of  it.  The  central  relief  is  a  life- 
size    figure    of    a    priest,    to    judge     from    the    total    absence    of 


YUCATEC   CAPITAL   AT   CIIICHEN-iTZA. 


Chichen-Itza. 


345 


arms  about  all  the  figures  on  these  pillars.  The  caryatides 
on  the  smaller  reliefs,  notably  the  lower  one,  have  double 
spirals  over  the  mouth,  presumably  a  symbol  of  wind  and 
speech.  We  noticed  in  a  former  chapter  this  spiral  about 
Quetzalcoatl  on  the  outer  relief  of  the  altar  in  the  Temple 
of  the  Cross  at  Palenque.  All  these  caryatides  represent 
long-bearded  men, 
whose  type  is  identi- 
cal with  those  on  the 
Tula  relief,  as  may 
be  seen  by  the  most 
superficial  comparison 
of  the  two.  But  is 
the  spiral  an  emblem 
of  speech  ?  That  it  is 
so  may  be  assumed 
from  the  upper  carya- 
tid, which  only  sup- 
porting the  entablature 
has  no  spiral  about 
the  mouth,  while  the 
lower  one  not  only 
bears  aloft  the  central 
figure  and  the  edifice, 
but  it  seems  to  carry, 
to  create  and  breathe  life  into  the  whole,  as  the  emblem  of 
civilisation.  At  least  so  it  struck  us  when  we  looked  at  these 
bearded  figures  which  support  the  pillars,  and  saw  the  symbolical 
sign  of  quickening  speech  around  the  mouth  of  each,  and 
considered  that  the  Toltecs  were  the  builders  of  these  monuments, 
which  they  reared  by  their  mighty  word,  in  accordance  with 
their  pacific  and  civilising  character,  as  described  by  Herrera  and 


DOOK-rOSTS    IN   THE   CASTILLO,  CHICHEN-ITZA. 


346  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


Landa.  I  am  well  aware  that  this  assumption  rests  on  no 
scientific  basis,  nevertheless  I  hope  to  bring  so  many  data  in 
its  favour  as  to  make  it  highly  probable.  The  most  remarkable 
feature  about  the  relief  on  the  capital  is  its  striking  resemblance 
to  the  caryatides  in  high  relief  found  on  the  terrace  and  facade 
of  Angcor-Thom's  palace,  given  by  Francis  Garnier  ;  *  in  both 
the  same  attitude  and  dress  are  observable  ;  the  latter  consists 
of  the  patoi  with  the  Cambodians,  and  the  maxtli  with  the 
Toltecs ;  while  the  sculpture  is  primitive  in  both,  the  only 
difference  being  in  the  relief 

Our  excursions  in  these  impenetrable  woods,  our  ascents 
and  descents  of  the  pyramid,  the  arduous  work  attending  the 
taking  of  squeezes,  made  our  life  very  harassing  ;  it  could  have 
been  more  easily  borne  had  we  been  able  to  sleep,  but  the 
scorching  days  were  succeeded  by  icy-cold  nights,  which  kept 
us  awake,  so  that  we  rose  in  the  morning  more  unrefreshed 
and  more  tired  than  when  we  turned  in  for  the  night. 

Some  compensation  we  had  in  our  walks  round  the  pyramid, 
beguiling  the  time  we  could  not  sleep  with  a  cigar,  contemplating 
the  fine  starry  nights  and  sometimes  the  lunar  rainbows  so  rarely 
seen  ;  or  we  watched  the  broad  shadow  of  the  pyramid  cast 
athwart  the  white  haze  shrouding  the  plain,  fringed  by  an  im- 
mense brilliant  corona,  which  seemed  to  float  in  space.  Never 
had  I  gazed  on  anything  so  curious  and  fantastic  as  this 
terrestrial  halo ;  and  if  the  ancient  worshippers  of  Cukulcan 
ever  witnessed  the  phenomenon,  they  must  have  deemed  it 
little  short  of  miraculous. 

We  were  still  without  a  cook  ;  for  Julian  was  so  atrociously 
bad  that  I  kept  him  at  the  squeezes,  taking  the  cooking 
ourselves    in    turn,    which    wasted    much    valuable    time.     One 


*  Gamier,  "  Voyage  d'Exploration  dans  I'lndo-Chine,"  tome  i.  chap.  iv.  p.  71. 


Chiciien-Itza. 


347 


evening,  after  everybody  had  gone  to 
rest,   I    was  sitting  alone   writing  my 
impressions,  my  head  full  of  the  ruins 
and   the   people  who  inhabited  them. 
[   suddenly  looked   up,  to  see  stand- 
ing before  me  a  lovely  maiden  more 
like    an    apparition     than     a    mortal 
being.       Was    this    the    shade    of   a 
Maya  princess  who  had   returned   to 
the    scenes    of   her    former   life,    con- 
jured up  by  my  imagination  ?     Mean- 
while   the     beauteous     figrure     stood 
looking  and    smiling    at    me.      I    was 
amazed,  speechless,  hardly  daring  to 
break    the  spell,  when  a  third    figure 
stood  out  from  the  dark  entrance,  in 
whom   I   recognised   the  commandant 
of  Piste. 

"  You  are  surprised  at  our  visit," 
he  said. 

"  Rather,  especially  at  this  hour, 
and  in  such  a  night." 

"  Time  is  of  no  account  when  you 
wish  to  serve  a  friend  ;  I  heard  that 
you  required  a  cook,  I  brought  you 
mine,  that's  all." 

"  A  cook  !  "  I  ejaculated  to  my- 
self. What  a  fall !  my  Indian  princess 
a  cook  !  I  looked  at  her  again,  and 
I  could  not  believe  that  so  much 
youth  and  beauty  were  put  to  such 
menial    occupation.       I    wondered    at 


BAS-RELIEFS   fROM    PILLARS   OF   SANC- 
TUARY  OF   CHICHEN-IT^A. 


348  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


the  commandant's  self-abnegation.  I  was  somewhat  embar- 
rassed, nevertheless,  as  to  where  I  should  put  her.  I  called 
up  Julian  to  prepare  a  bed  for  her,  but  as  he  was  not  easily 
roused,  I  had  time  to  reflect  that  with  a  hundred  men  about 
me,  El  Castillo  was  no  fitting  place  for  a  young  girl.  I 
was  profuse  in  my  acknowledgments  to  the  commandant, 
observing  that  as  nothing  was  ready,  it  would  perhaps  be 
better  to  put  off  her  coming  for  a  day  or  two,  apologising 
for  the  trouble  they  had  taken  in  coming  through  the  woods 
and  having  to  climb  the  pyramid  in  such  a  pitch-dark  night. 
He  knew  what  I  meant.  I  slipped  a  coin  in  the  girl's 
hand,  as  she  held  a  bottle  towards  me.  "  Drink,"  said  the 
officer;  "it  is  Josepha's  present  to  you."  I  did  so,  while 
Josepha  merely  put  her  lips  to  the  bottle.  We  shook  hands, 
and  my  two  visitors  disappeared  in  the  night.  The  draught 
was  Staventum,  a  strong  spirit,  which  made  me  light-headed, 
and  in  a  fit  of  somnambulism  I  wandered  about,  spouting  poetry 
at  the  top  of  my  voice,  on  the  very  edge  of  the  pyramid,  whence 
I  was  fortunately  removed,  without  any  further  result  than  to 
awake  the  next  day  with  a  splitting  headache.  Our  long-expected 
cook  arrived  at  last,  and  she  was  so  old,  and  such  a  fright,  that 
it  relieved  me  of  all  fear  on  her  account. 

Akab-Sib,  "  writing  in  the  dark,"  is  a  modern  appellation, 
due  to  a  bas-relief  found  on  the  lintel  of  an  inner  door  at 
the  extremity  of  the  building.  The  cut  we  give  is  a  copy  of 
our  photograph.  We  can  give  no  explanation  respecting  this 
relief  The  figure  it  represents  is  sitting  before  a  vase  full  of 
indistinct  objects,  with  outstretched  arm  and  forefinger  pointed, 
whether  in  question  or  command  is  uncertain — not  much  for  the 
imagination  to  go  upon.  We  will  restrict  ourselves  to  pointing 
out  the  analogy  of  the  characters  in  the  inscriptions  with  those 
at   Palenque.     The  structure   consists   of  eighteen  rooms,   reared 


Chiciien-Itza. 


349 


on    a    plain    pyramid,    with   a  stairway   to   the    east,    without   any 
ornamentation. 

The  Caracol  is  a  round  building,  22  feet  in  diameter,  with 
a  double  inner  corridor  and  a  central  pillar  ;  it  is  a  kind  of 
tower,  used  probably  for  civil  or  religious  ceremonies,  for  we 
have  found  this  kind  of  structure  at  Cozumel  and  in  all  the 
pfreat   centres. 


/-v 


BAS-RELIEFS   WITH    INSCRIPTIONS,    AKAB-SIB  PALACE    AT    CHICHEN-ITZA. 


The  Chichan-Chob,  "Red  House"  (p.  351),  is  a  small 
building  about  a  hundred  yards  north  of  the  Caracol ;  it 
stands  on  a  rectangular  platform,  reached  by  a  flight  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  steps.  It  is  the  best  preserved  monument 
at  Chichen,  and  might  be  even  now  a  pleasant  residence ;  for 
time  seems  to  have  respected  and  to  have  left  untouched  its 
plain,  smooth  walls,  and  from  its  general  appearance  it  cannot 
date  further  back  than  towards  the  last  years  of  the  city  in  the 
fifteenth    century.       Three    doorways    to    the    north    lead    into    a 


350  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


corridor  extending  over  the  whole  length  of  the  building,  whence 
three  more  openings  give  access  to  as  many  apartments  in  a 
perfect  state  of  preservation.  Over  these  doorways,  and  running 
the  whole  length  of  the  corridor,  is  a  narrow  stone  tablet,  on 
which  is  graven  a  row  of  hieroglyphics  very  much  damaged,  of 
which  Stephens  gave  a  faithful  reproduction. 

The  situation  of  Chichen  is  due  probably  to  the  great  cenot^s 
which  supplied  the  city  with  abundant  water,  and  which  differ 
from  the  complicated  underground  passages  noted  in  other  parts 
of  the  state,  being  immense  natural  pits  of  great  depth,  with 
perpendicular  sides.  Of  these  cenotes,  that  for  general  use 
occupied  the  centre  of  the  place  ;  picturesque  must  have  been 
the  throng  of  white-robed  women  who  peopled  its  steps  at  all 
hours  of  the  day  to  fetch  water  for  household  purposes,  carrying 
double-handled  urns  on  their  shoulders  or  on  their  hips  just 
as  they  do  at  the  present  day.  The  other,  or  sacred  cenote,  lies 
in  a  tangle  of  wood  on  the  confines  of  the  city,  to  which  a  path 
had  to  be  opened.  We  find  midway  a  large  broken  statue  of 
Tlaloc,  similar  to  the  two  we  reproduce  further  on  ;  the  upper 
portion  of  the  body  and  the  head  are  wanting.  Near  it  are 
ruinous  heaps,  remains  of  two  temples,  their  base  occupied  by 
immense  heads  of  Ouetzalcoatl,  who  seems  to  have  been  the 
tutelary  deity  of  Chichen.  On  fragments  of  walls  still  standing, 
I  notice  bas-reliefs  in  excellent  preservation,  one  representing  a 
large  fish  with  a  human  head,*  and  the  other  a  figure  of  a  man 
after  death. 

Landa's  description  of  these  temples  would  lead  us  to  infer 
that  they  were  entire  in  his  time,  for  he  says  :  "  Some  distance 
north  of  the  Castillo  were  two  small  theatres  built  with  square 
blocks ;    four    filghts    of  steps    led    to    the    top,   paved   with    fine 

*  By  a  curious  coincidence,  a  sculptured  fish  having  a  human  head  is  found  on 
a  Romance  capital  in  the  Church  of  St.  Germain-des-Pies. 


Ciiiciien-Itza.  35. 


slabs,  and  on  which  low  comedies  were  performed."*  Not- 
withstanding Landa  and  Cogolludo's  testimony,  we  think  they 
were  temples  on  whose  summits  the  Christianised  Indians  per- 
formed their  religious  ceremonies,  which  from  fear  of  anathemas 
they  represented  to  the  good  bishop  as  comedies. 

The  sacred  cenote  lies  1 50  yards  beyond ;  it  is  oblong  in 
shape,  and  the  two  diameters  measure  from  130  to  165  feet. 
The  surface  of  the  water  cannot  be  reached,  for  the  wall,  some 
65  feet  high,  is  entire  and  perpendicular  throughout.  The  deso- 
lation of  this  aguado,  its  walls  shrouded  with  brambles,  shrubs, 
and  lianas,  the  sombre  forest  beyond,  but  above  all  the  lugubrious 
associations  attaching  to  it,  fill  the  imagination  with  indescribable 
melancholy. 

Hither  pilgrims  repaired,  and  here  offerings  were  made;  for 
Chichen  was  a  holy  city,  and  among  her  shrines  the  cenote 
held  a  conspicuous  place,  as  the  following  passage  from  Landa 
will  show :  "  From  the  courtyard  of  the  theatre,  a  good  wide 
road  led  to  a  well  some  little  distance  beyond  (the  road  was 
therefore  in  perfectly  good  condition),  into  which  in  times  of 
drought  the  natives  used  to  throw  men,  as  indeed  they  still 
do  (1560),  as  an  offering  to  their  deities,  fully  believing  that 
they  would  not  die,  even  though  they  disappeared.  Precious 
stones  and  other  valuable  objects  were  also  offered  ;  and  had 
the  country  been  rich  in  gold,  this  well  would  contain  a  vast 
quantity,  because  of  the  great  veneration  of  the  natives  for  it. 
The  aguado  is  round,  of  great  depth,  measuring  over  100  feet 
in  width  and  cunningly  hewn  out  of  the  rock.t  The  green 
colour  of  the  water  is  due  to  the  foliage ;  on  its  banks  rises 
a  small  building  filled  with  Idols  in  honour  of  all  the  principal 


*  Landa,  sec.  xlii.  p.  344. 

t  The  good  bishop  saw  the  hand  of  man  in  a  natural  phenomenon  not  under- 
stood in  his  time. 

2   A 


154  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


edifices  in  the  country,  exactly  like  the  Pantheon  in  Rome.  I 
cannot  say  whether  this  is  an  ancient  practice  or  an  innovation 
of  the  aborigines,  who  find  here  their  idols  to  which  they  can 
bring  their  offerings.  I  also  found  sculptured  lions,  vases,  and 
other  objects,  which,  from  the  manner  they  were  fashioned, 
must  have  been  wrought  with  metal  instruments  ;  besides  two 
statues  of  considerable  size  of  one  single  block,  with  peculiar 
heads,  earrings,  and  the  maxtli  round  their  loins.'  *  This  pas- 
sage is  very  remarkable,  but  the  Abbe  Brasseur,  who  translated 
it,  does  not  seem  to  have  grasped  its  true  meaning.  What, 
there  was  a  plastered  road  in  good  preservation,  a  temple  filled 
with  idols  brought  thither  by  the  existing  natives,  more  than  forty 
years  after  the  Conquest,  there  were  numerous  offerings  in  honour 
of  the  various  poliote  deities,  statues  representing  the  Mayas  in 
their  national  costume,  and  yet  it  is  urged  that  these  temples 
were  constructed  before  the  Christian  era  1  Landa's  account 
ought  to  convince  the  most  prejudiced ;  proving  the  town  to 
have  been,  if  not  quite  recent,  comparatively  so,  and  inhabited 
when  Montejo  occupied  it  for  the  first  time,  in  1527,  since 
thirty-three  years  later  (1560)  devotees  were  still  visiting  its 
shrines.  This  is  also  the  conclusion  arrived  at  by  Stephens, 
who   had  fewer  data  in  support   of  it. 

These  pages  had  already  been  written  when  I  received  Chic- 
xulub's  Chronicles,  written  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  by  the 
Cacique  NakukT-*eck  ;  translated  and  published  by  Brinton,  Phila- 
delphia, 1882,  containing  most  valuable  information  whereby  my 
theory  is  strengthened  with  all  the  weight  of  an  official  document. 

Sec.  4.  Nakuk-Peck,  writing  of  Montejo's  expedition  to 
Chichen-Itza,  1527,  says:  "He  set  out  to  reconnoitre  the  place 
called    Chichen-Itza,    whence    he   invited  the  chief  of   tJie  toiun 

*  Landa,  sec.  lii.  p.  34O. 


2    A    2 


Ciiiciien-Itza.  357 


to  come  and  see  him  ;  and  the  people  said  unto  him  :  '  There 
is  a  King,  my  Lord,  there  is  a  King,  even  Coconi  a2in  Peck, 
King  Peck,  King  Chel  of  Chicantum ; '  and  Captain  Ciipul  said 
to  him :  '  Stranger  warrior,  take  yoitr  rest  in  these  palaces! 
So  spoke  Captain  CupnH'  After  this,  can  it  be  further  doubted 
that  Chichen  was  inhabited  at  the  Conquest  ?  Of  Izamal  he 
says  : 

Sec.  1 8.  "When  the  Spaniards  estabHshed  themselves  at 
Merida  in  1542,  the  chief  orator,  the  high-priest  Kinich-Kaki7i6 
and  the  King  of  the  Tutulxius  from  Mani,  made  their  submission!' 
Obviously  Kinich-Kakmo  was  the  generic  name  for  the  high- 
priests  at  Izamal  who  were  in  full  possession  of  their  religious 
prerogatives  at  the  coming  of  the  Spaniards  ;  consequently  the 
temples  and  palaces  of  both  Izamal  and  Chichen  were  then  in- 
habited. These  passages  tell  us,  moreover,  what  we  did  not  yet 
know — that  after  the  fall  of  Mayapan  the  head  of  the  Cocomes 
took  possession  of  the  principality  of  Chichen  (the  fall  of  Mayapan 
and  the  migration  of  the  Chichemecs  were  probably  contem- 
poraneous events),  that  Kinich-Kakmo  was  the  ally  of  Tutulxiu, 
King  of  Mani,  since,  jointly  with  him,  he  offered  his  alliance  to 
Montejo,  and  that  the  latter  and  Cocom,  both  of  Toltec  descent, 
were  enemies  struggling  for  supremacy  over  the  province.* 

We  read  in  Torquemada  and  other  writers  that  the  first  to 
arrive  in  the  country  were  the  Cocomes,  penetrating  the 
peninsula  from  Tabasco  towards  the  end  of  the  twelfth  century, 
under  the  command  of  their  chief  Ouetzalcoatl,  after  they  had 
already  subdued  and  civilised  most  of  the  northern  portion  of 
Yucatan.  They  were  succeeded  a  century  later  by  the  Tutulxius, 
who  marked  their  passage  through  the  Usumacinta  Valley  by 
the  erection  of  Lorillard  and  Tikal. 

*  Landa,  "  Relacion  de  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan,"  sec.  viii.  p.  47. 


358  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

Herrera  and  Landa  tell  us  that  "  several  tribes  came  from 
Chiapas,  having  entered  Yucatan  by  the  south,  although  this 
is  not  generally  known  to  the  natives  themselves,  but  he  (Landa) 
conjectures  it  from  the  great  number  of  names  and  verbal  con- 
structions common  to  Chiapas  and  Yucatan,  as  from  considerable 
vestiges  of  deserted  localities  (Palenque,  Ocosingo,  and  Lorillard, 
etc.).  These  tribes  dwelt  in  the  wilderness  south  of  the  peninsula, 
journeying  hence  to  the  hilly  region  of  Kabah,  Uxmal,  etc.,  M'here 
they  settled  down  under  their  chief  Tutulxiu,  spreading  every- 
where the  worship  of  the  Sun,  the  Moon,  Tlaloc,  and  Ouetzalcoatl, 
their  chief  deities.  They  lived  in  great  peace  with  the  former 
inhabitants,  and  with  one  another.  Thev  had  no  arms,  snaring 
animals  with  nets  or  taking  them  with  lazos."*  Yet  these  kindred 
tribes,  the  Cocomes  and  Tutulxius,  so  mild  in  disposition,  became 
fierce  and  quarrelsome  soon  after  the  settlement  of  the  latter 
in  the  district,  both  struggling  for  supremacy.  In  this  conflict, 
Mayapan  was  successively  occupied  by  the  victorious  party, 
while  both  succumbed  to  the  caciques,  who,  taking  advantage 
of  these  inter-tribal  contentions,  consolidated  their  power,  when 
the  peninsula  was  divided  into  eighteen  independent  provinces, 
continually  at  war  with  each  other,  which  finally  worked  the 
destruction   of  the    Maya-Toltec   civilisation. 

Aware  of  the  treasures  the  cenote  might  contain,  I  had  pro- 
vided myself  with  two  automatic  Toselli  sounding-machines,  one 
of  which  is  capable  of  bringing  up  half  a  cubic  metre  deposit  ; 
but  unfortunately  I  could  not  get  it  to  work,  owing  to  the 
height  of  the  walls,  the  depth  of  the  water,  and  the  enormous 
detritus  of  several   centuries. 

The  Tennis-court  is  at  once  the  largest  and  the  best  pre- 
served of  any  structure  of   this   description  ;    it   consists    of   two 

*    6?  supra. 


Ciiiciien-Itza.  361 


perpendicular  parallel  walls  from  north  to  south,  34  ])y  325  feet, 
32  feet  high,  and  113  feet  apart.  Both  ends  are  occupied  by 
two  small  temples  always  seen  in  structures  of  this  kind.  The 
southern  edifice  has  no  ornamentation  of  any  interest ;  the 
northern,  which  is  shown  in  our  cut,  contains  a  single  apartment, 
with  a  portico  to  the  south  supported  by  columns,  forming  a 
balcony  whence  the  grandees  witnessed  the  game  sheltered 
from   the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun. 

The  ruinous  condition  of  this  building  will  not  allow  us 
to  judge  of  its  external  decoration  ;  but  the  columns  and 
the  walls  in  the  interior  are  covered  with  rows  of  human 
figures  in  bas-relief,  so  damaged,  however,  that  the  subjects 
represented  cannot  be  recognised.  The  inner  walls  facing 
each  other,  have  in  the  centre  of  each,  some  15  feet  from  the 
ground,  two  stone  rings  with  a  hole  through  the  centre, 
similar  to  the  one  we  dug  up  at  Tula.  The  vast  propor- 
tions of  this  tlachtli  indicate  that  the  national  Nahua  game 
was    as    eagerly    played    In    Yucatan    as    on    the    table-land. 

From  the  remaining  sculptured  fragments,  whether  bases,  shafts 
of  columns,  or  reliefs,  representing  Ouetzalcoatl,  we  are  induced 
to  believe  that  this  stately  building  was  dedicated  to  this 
god  ;  all  the  more  that  the  south  end  of  the  eastern  wall 
is  occupied  by  a  monument  where  his  symbolical  image  is 
everywhere  seen.  It  consists  of  two  apartments  of  different 
size,  richly  decorated  ;  a  portico  gave  access  to  the  main 
chamber  (our  cut  shows  its  dimensions),  where  the  bases  of  the 
columns  are  covered  with  finely  sculptured  serpents'  heads  with 
protruding  tongues,  over  9  feet  long,  bearing  the  characteristics 
of  those  on  the  great  temple  at  Mexico  which  date   1484- 1486. 

The  southern  facade  of  this  monument  has  a  beautiful  inter- 
laced frieze,  with  a  procession  of  tigers,  divided  by  richly 
fringed    shields,   bearing    a    strong  resemblance    to    those  of   the 


362 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


various  tribes,  published  by  Lorenzana  with  Cortez'  letters, 
and  similar  to  those  generally  seen  in  the  Mexican  manuscripts. 
We  think  we  recognise  in  this  a  monument  of  Ouetzalcoatl 
commemorating  his  victory  over  Tezcatlipoca  in  his  foot-ball 
match  which  took  place  at  Tula,  and  that  this  is  so  seems 
highly  probable. 

In     the     chamber     which     stood     over     the     ruined     portico 


];as-relief  in  hall  of  tennis-court  of  chichen-itza. 


there  was,  twenty  years  ago,  a  series  of  paintings  descriptive 
of  domestic  and  public  life  among  the  Mayas,  now  entirely 
destroyed  by  barbarous  explorers,  or  by  the  inhabitants  of 
Piste.  Stephens,  who  saw  them,  says  that  they  were  painted 
in  bright  colours  of  blue,  red,  yellow,  and  green.  Fortunately 
for  us,  three  sides  of  the  pillars  at  the  entrance  are  still 
covered  with  sculptures,  as  also  the  lintels,  and  all  are  in 
better  preservation  than  any  at  Chichcn-Itza,  as  may  be  seen 
in    our   drawing.       Here   also^  we  find  numerous    analogies  with 


Chichen-Itza. 


3^3 


Mexican    monuments,  which,  it    should  be  recollected,   were    the 


result  of  Toltec  teaching. 


tigers"  bas-reliefs  on  portion  of  tennis-court  of  ciiicuen-itza. 


All  the  human  figures  seen  on  these  monuments  have  the 
usual  type  of  the  Toltecs  of  the  high  plateaux.  Their  gala 
dress,  like  that  of  the  reliefs  at  page  362,  is  identical  with  the 
dress    of    the    figures    on    Tizoc's    stone.      It    is    always    a    head- 


564 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


dress  of  feathers,  a  heavy  collar  of  precious  stones,  a  bundle 
of  arrows  in  the  left  hand,  while  the  right  carries  a  knife 
similar  to  that  carried  by  the  figures  of  the  Cuauhxicalli,  so 
that  we  might  almost  fancy  we  are  following  in  the  train  of  a 
Nahua  pageant  so  vividly  portrayed  by  Sahagun,  when  he  says : 

^        "In   the  feast   of  the    God 

^-r^W-^'j         41^^^^^*^^^      of  Fire,  which  was   held  in 

the  month  IzcallV  (the 
eighteenth  month),  "  the 
nobles  wore  a  high-fronted 
paper  coronet,  with  no  back 
to  it,  a  kind  of  false  nose 
of  blue  paper,  a  collar  and 
medallions  around  their 
necks,  while  in  their  hands 
was  carried  a  wooden  knife, 
the  lower  half  of  which  was 
painted  red  and  the  upper 
white."  *  In  our  cut,  the 
fio-ure  to  the  riofht  wears 
the  mitre  just  described  with 
the  piece  of  paper  about  the 
nose,  while  the  collar  and 
the  wooden  knife  may  be 
seen  in  both,  just  like  those 
we  see  on  Tizoc's  stone.  The  analogy  is  as  curious  as  it  is 
striking. 

Further,  to  the  right  of  our  drawing  (page  365),  the  figures, 
besides  the  huge  feather  head-dress,  carry  in  their  hands  spears 
barbed  with  feathers,  like  the  figures  to  the  extreme  left  on  Tizoc's 


DOOR-rOSTS   OF   HALL    IN   THE   TENNIS-COURT   OF 
CIUCIIEN-ITZA. 


Sahagun,  "  Hist,  de  las  Cosas  de  la  Nueva  l-'spaiia,"  lib.  11.  cap.  xxxvii. 


Chiciien-Itza. 


365 


stone.  These  warriors  are  distributed  in  groups  of  two,  the 
conqueror  to  the  left,  the  vanquished  to  the  right ;  the  latter 
in  the  act  of  presenting  the  sacred  knife  he  holds  in  his  hand, 
as  a  sign  of  submission.  Some  of  the  warriors,  instead  of  the 
knife,  have  a  two-handed  sword,  "  macana'''  furnished  with 
blades  of  obsidian  of  Toltec  manufacture ;  a  few  have  their 
noses   pierced,   and   wear  a  golden  ball,   or    the    obsidian   bezotd, 


Tl/.OC  S    STONE,   IN    MEXICO. 


on  their  under-lip,  as  a  badge  of  knighthood,  which  they  had 
adopted  from  the  Nahuas  of  the  Uplands.  Further,  each 
figure,  whether  in  the  Mexican  or  Maya  bas-relief,  wears  a 
kind  of  casque,  fashioned  in  the  shape  of  a  crocodile,  a  bird, 
a  serpent,  or  a  duck's  head,  etc.,  with  his  name  on  it.  Slight 
differences  of  style  may  occur  here  and  there  ;  for  these 
monuments  belong  to  remote  epochs,  while  Tizoc's  stone 
only  dates   back  to    1485  ;    but  the   fact  that   they  are  found   at 


i66 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


a   distance    of   more   than  900   miles   from  each    other   does    not 
make  their  resemblance  less  marvellous. 

We  will  end  our  comparisons  with  a  description  of  the  follow- 
ing statues,  which  ought  to  convert  the  most  obstinate  to  our 
theory.  One  was  discovered  at  Chichen-Itza  five  or  six  years 
ago,  by  Leplongeon,  an  American  explorer ;  the  other  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  Tlascala,  close  to  Mexico,  at  a  considerable 
distance  from  the  former.     The  two  statues  represent  the  Toltec 


STATUE   OF   TLAl.OC    FOUND   AT   CHICHEN-ITZA. 


god  Tlaloc,  according  to  Mr.  Hamy,  whose  view  I  take.  This 
view  receives  additional  probability  from  the  existence  of  a  third 
statue,  which  was  found  I  know  not  where,  and  which  is  the 
property  of  Mr.  Baron  of  Mexico,  who  bought  it  among  several 
other  Aztec  antiquities,  and  had  it  placed  in  his  beautiful  garden 
at  Tacubaya,  whence  it  has,  I  suppose,  been  removed  to  Spain. 
"This  statue,"  says  Jesus  Sanchez,  *Ms  smaller  than  the  other  two, 
measuring  but  3  feet  by  i  foot  7  inches  by  2  feet  high.  It 
also  represents  a  man  lying  on  his  back,  his  legs  drawn  up,  his 


Ciiiciii:n-Itza. 


367 


feet  on  the    ground,   and  holding  with  both  hands  a  vase   which 
rests  against   his  body." 

There  is  no  doubt  that  the  same  deity  is  figured  in 
these  three  statues,  whatever  the  ornamentation,  which  varies 
according  to  the  epoch,  the  locaHty,  or  the  imagination  of 
the  artist.  But  Sanchez  adds,  "recollecting  that  a  number 
of    Mexican     statues    were    sculptured    also    beneath    thc^ir    base, 


i^^-^'-'?' 


STATUE   OF   TLALOC   OF   TLASCALA    (iN    THE   MUSEUM   OF   MEXICO). 

I  turned  this,  when  I  discovered  several  devices  in  relief 
The  sculptor  had  carved  on  the  surface  of  the  stone  a  sheet  of 
water,  aquatic  plants,  two  frogs,  and  a  fish ;  while  the  bank  was 
occupied  by  beans  and  grains  of  maize,  which  are  among  the 
attributes  of  Tlaloc*  The  statue  in  the  Mexican  Museum, 
although  found  at  Tlascala,  must  necessarily  be  Toltec  from  its 
archaic  character,  and  determines  the  origin  of  the  second  at 
Chichen-Itza.  When  we  add  that  the  same  customs,  the  same  in- 
stitutions, the  same  manner  of  computing  time,  the  same  religion. 


368  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


and  the  same  arms,  were  common  to  both  the  tribes  of  the 
plateaux  and  the  Mayas  of  the  peninsula,  as  recorded  by  all 
ancient  writers  so  often  quoted  in  the  course  of  this  work,  we 
think  we  may  even  more  positively  affirm  that  the  Yucatec 
civilisation  is  both  Toltec  and  recent. 

There  remains  another  monument  to  explore,  which  has  not 
been  understood  by  former  travellers,  whilst  the  drawing  given 
by  Stephens  is  altogether  erroneous,  but  the  probable  use  of 
which  we  think  we  can  explain.  At  a  distance  of  some  162  feet 
east  of  the  Castillo,  is  a  curious  assemblage  of  several  hundred 
small  columns  in  rows,  five  or  six  abreast,  13  feet  apart  from 
each  other,  forming  an  immense  quadrilateral.  These  columns, 
6  feet  high,  some  of  which  are  still  standing,  consist  of  five  round 
pieces,  crowned  by  a  beautifully  cut  but  plain  square  capital. 

By  far  the  greater  proportion  are  lying  on  the  ground,  their 
blocks  disjointed  but  in  order,  while  others  are  scattered  about 
in  great  confusion.  Two  edifices,  now  demolished,  save  some 
fine  sculptured  fragments,  occupied  the  angles  north-east  and 
south-west  of  the  quadrilateral.  We  are  of  opinion  that  this  vast 
structure  was  the  Market-place. 

It  is  not  conceivable  that  so  great  a  religious  centre  was  not 
possessed  of  an  establishment  similar  to  those  found  in  all  the 
great  cities  of  the  Uplands,  notably  to  any  one  familiar  with  the 
narratives  of  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  in  which  the  Mexican  and 
Tlascalan  market-places  are  described  as  having,  like  this  monu- 
ment, low  colonnades,  galleries,  and  buildings  occupied  by  the 
judges  entrusted  with  the  various  cases  arising  in  and  out  of 
the  Market-place. 

The  importance  attached  to  the  market  on  the  table-land, 
leaves  no  doubt  that  it  had  equal  rank  in   the  peninsula,   where 


*  Sanchez,  "  Annales  du  Musce  de  Mexico,"  tome  i.  p.  277. 


CinriiEN-lTZA.  369 

the  manners  and  requirements  were  identical.  "In  Mexico,"  says 
Clavigero,  "the  judges  of  the  commercial  tribunal,  twelve  in 
number,  held  their  court  in  the  market  building,  wh(;re  they 
regulated  prices  and  measures,  and  settled  disputes.  Commis- 
sioners acting  under  their  authority  patrolled  the  tianquiztli 
(market-place)  to  prevent  disorder.  Any  attempt  at  extortionate 
charges,  or  at  passing  inferior  or  injured  goods,  or  any  infringe- 
ment of  another's  right,  was  reported  and  severely  punished."  * 

The  king  received  a  certain  percentage  on  all  goods  brought 
to  the  market,  in  return  for  the  protection  thus  extended  to  the 
merchants.  The  tianqiLiztlis  of  Texcuco,  Cholula,  and  other 
cities,  were  on  a  similar  plan,  and  Cortez  speaks  of  the  market 
at  Tlascala  as  being  attended  by  more  than  thirty  thousand 
people. 

Sahagun  enumerates  the  various  products  which  were  sold, 
the  judges  who  watched  over  the  interests  of  buyers  and  sellers, 
the  perfect  order  enforced,  and  the  importance   of  the   markets. f 

What  more  natural  than  to  suppose  that  the  markets  of  the 
table-land  had  their  counterpart  in  the  peninsula,  and  that  a  great 
city  like  Chichen  should  have  had  an  important  tianquiz,  which 
was  frequented  daily  or  at  stated  times  by  vast  multitudes  of 
traffickers,  or  that  provision  should  have  been  made  for  sheltering 
them  against  the  fierce  tropical  sun  ?  Moreover,  it  is  the  only 
structure  here  which  could  have  been  used  as  a  market ;  while 
its  arrangement,  the  fact  that  it  occupies  the  centre  of  the  city, 
favour  our  assumption.  According  to  Dr.  Montano,  the  Indian 
word  tianquiz,  "  market,"  is  tianggi  in  the  Malay  language. 

Meanwhile,  our  squeezes  and  our  explorations  had  been  going 
on  pari  passu ;  the  former  consisting  of  impressions  taken  from 
the  best  preserved  and  most  interesting  monuments.     The  labour 

*  Clavigero,  tome  i.  lib.  vii.  p.  228.  t  Sahagun,  lib.  vni.  cap.  xxxvi. 

2    B 


370  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


was  now  brought  to  a  satisfactory  termination,  and  our  thoughts 
were  directed  to  the  packing  and  safe  transport  of  so  many 
precious  objects.  When  this  was  accompHshed,  I  entrusted  the 
freight  to  some  picked  men  to  convey  it  to  Piste,  whither  we 
should   follow. 

All  the  time  we  had  been  at  Chichen  we  had  looked,  but  in 
vain,  for  Colonel  Triconis'  promised  visit.  We  regretted  it  all 
the  more  as  through  his  kindness  we  had  obtained  our  escort, 
which  had  proved  so  helpful  in  our  work.  Our  saddle  and  pack- 
horses  had  arrived  from  Citas ;  we  were  at  the  foot  of  the 
pyramid,  putting  the  last  hand  to  the  loading,  when  the  Colonel 
rode  up.  To  shake  hands,  to  tender  our  thanks  for  his  civility, 
was  all  we  had  time  to  do  before  we  all  set  out  for  Piste,  where  we 
parted  :  Colonel  Triconis  to  return  to  Valladolid,  and  we  to  Citas. 

In  the  order  of  our  march  the  squeezes  went  first,  forming 
immense  rolls  covered  with  tarpaulin.  We  followed  in  silence, 
and  our  band  had  all  the  appearance  of  a  funeral  procession 
conveying  the  sacred  ornaments  of  the  priests  of  olden  time. 

We  reached  Citas  without  accident,  and  two  days  later  were 
in  Merida. 


SECOND  PALACE  OF  KABAH. 


CHAPTER     XIX. 


KABAH    AND    UXMAL. 


Departure  for  Ticul— Uayalceh— Mucuiche— Sacalun— An  Old  Souvenir— Ticul 
— Excavations  at  S.  Francisco — Failure — Yucatec  Vases — Entertainment  at 
the  Hacienda  of  Yokat — A  Sermon  in  Maya — Hacienda  of  Santa  Anna — 
Important  Remains — The  Ruins  of  Kabah — Monuments  Surveyed — First 
Palace — Ornamental  Wall— Cisterns — Inner  Apartments — Second  Palace — 
Great  Pyramid — Ancient  Writers  Quoted — Stephens'   Drawings. 

The  road  to  Kabah,  our  next  stage,  passing  by  Ticul,  lies  as 
usual  through  a  flat  tract  of  land,  varied  here  and  there  by- 
plantations  of  henequen  and  maize.  We  reach  the  hacienda 
of  Uayalceh    about  nine  o'clock,    where    we    make    a    stay    of   a 

2     B     2 


;72  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World, 


few  hours  to  breakfast,  visit  the  plantations  and  the  house, 
consisting  of  an  immense  pile  of  building  surrounded  by 
cloisters,  reared  on  an  elevated  eminence,  presumably  the  site 
of  an  Indian  palace;  it  being  doubtful  whether  the  Spanish 
builder  would  have  gone  to  the  enormous  cost  of  constructing 
so  vast  an  esplanade.  A  gallery,  extending  over  the  whole 
length  of  the  building,  is  reached  by  twenty  steps,  where  a 
hammock,  comfortable  arm-chairs,  and  a  writing-desk  raised  on 
a  platform  are  found,  from  which  the  mayor-domo  can  watch 
unobserved  the  proceedings  of  the  establishment.  This  hacienda 
works  its  own  henequen,  employing  some  1,200  hands;  a  strict 
discipline  is  observed,  and  apart  from  the  monotonous  chant 
of  the  youngsters,  the  low  murmuring  of  the  women,  no  sound 
is  heard  save  that  of  the  machinery  or  the  wheel  at  the 
JSforia,  in  constant  movement  for  the  requirements  of  the 
whole  establishment.  It  is  altogether  a  lively  and  interesting 
scene. 

The  large  enclosure  fronting  the  house  is  planted  with 
bananas,  the  whole  zapotee  family,  cocoa  and  orange-trees 
growing  to  the  size  of  ilexes,  alternated  with  roses  and  the 
rich  variety  of  the  tropical  flora,  filling  the  air  with  their 
sweet,  penetrating  fragrance,  and  extending  to  a  wood  which 
surrounds  the  factory. 

Our  excellent  breakfast  is  served  in  a  portion  of  the  cool 
open  cloister,  washed  down  with  a  bottle  of  Spanish  wine 
and  a  delicious  cup  of  coffee.  We  pay  our  moderate  bill, 
proffer  our  thanks  to  the  mayor-domo  for  his  civility,  and  resume 
our  march,  alighting  at  the  hacienda  of  Mucuiche  to  visit  a 
cenotc,  and  reach  Sacalun  late  in  the  afternoon,  where  we 
stop  awhile  to  rest  our  hot,  panting  mules. 

It  was  formerly  a  place  of  some  importance  ;  but  its  chief 
attraction  lies  in  its  cenote,  65  feet  deep.      Steps  with  a  balustrade 


Kabah  and  Uxmal.  2)72) 


lead  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  while  the  great  stalactites  which 
hang  down  from  the  vault  and  almost  meet  the  stalagmites 
rising  from  the  ground,  form  an  imposing  and  weird  scene. 
Yet  it  was  here  that  I  experienced  the  most  charming  adventure 
that  I  met  in  the  whole  course  of  my  travels  ;  and,  although 
two-and-twenty  years  have  elapsed,  the  dear,  sweet  remembrance 
of  that  day  is  as  fresh  as  ever. 

I  was  on  my  way  to  Uxmal,  when  through  some  egregious 
stupidity  of  the  driver  I  was  obliged  to  put  up  here  for  the 
night.  There  was  of  course  no  inn,  and  I  found  a  bed  at  a 
poor  widow's,  who  took  in  casual  travellers  like  myself  The 
accommodation  was  of  the  scantiest  :  a  hammock,  a  small  table, 
a  chair  or  two,  was  all  the  furniture  of  a  room  which  was  at 
the  same  time  the  kitchen,  the  parlour,  and  the  sleeping  chamber. 
The  widow  apologised  for  having  nothing  better  to  offer,  but 
it  was  easy  to  guess  from  her  noble  manners  and  appearance, 
that  she  had  known  better  days.  I  watched  my  dinner  being 
prepared  ;  the  table  neatly  laid,  everything  so  scrupulously  clean, 
that  I  could  have  found  it  in  my  heart  to  be  indulgent  had 
the  cooking  been  execrable,  but  all  was  as  good  and  nice  as  would 
have  satisfied  the  most  fastidious  palate.  Two  lovely  maidens 
helped  their  mother  and  served  at  table  ;  my  eyes  sought  the 
younger,  whose  transparent  skin,  pearly  teeth,  hair  of  raven 
wing's  blackness,  magnificent,  languid  eyes,  fairy-like  form 
moving  over  the  ground  with  an  indescribable  undulating  move- 
ment, moved  me  body  and  soul  every  time  she  gazed  in  my 
direction.  Her  look  of  innocence  and  simplicity  added  to  the 
charm  which  seemed  to  emanate  from  her  whole  person,  accepting 
with  child-like  pleasure  my  open  admiration,  while  a  soft  blush 
spread  over  her  countenance  as  she  met  my  enraptured  gaze. 
Their  story  was  this  : 

The  hacienda  had  been  burnt  down,  her  husband  massacred. 


374  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

and  she  had  been  obliged  to  fly  with  her  little  ones  to  escape 
a  worse  fate,  to  find  on  their  return  the  place  a  heap  of  ruins. 
She  told  of  their  lone,  joyless  life,  of  a  still  darker  future,  and 
tears  coursed  down  her  cheeks  furrowed  by  care  and  privations 
rather  than  age. 

I  was  young,  impulsive,  I  wished  I  were  rich.  Why  should 
I  not  ...  In  a  moment,  ancient  monuments,  the  world,  my 
possible  career,  all  was  forgotten  in  face  of  these  tearful  coun- 
tenances and  their  undeserved  misfortune.  Why  not  accept 
the  love,  the  happiness,  which  were  offered  to  me  ?  And  how 
delightful  to  relieve  their  misery,  to  feel  that  a  whole  family 
would  be  made  happy  and  comfortable  by  me  and  through  me  ! 
All  this  and  a  great  deal  more  I  expressed,  and  was  amply 
repaid  by  the  angelic  smile  of  the  young  girl,  and  the  mother's 
grateful  acknowledgments.  Night,  however,  brought  calm  to 
my  disturbed  imagination,  and  I  resolved  on  a  speedy  flight, 
as  the  only  means  of  escape  from  a  too  fascinating  but  dangerous 
position.  The  next  day  I  announced  my  departure,  and  I  never 
saw  her  again.  And  now,  after  so  many  years,  I  was  back 
in  the  same  place  again.  I  sought  the  house,  to  find  that  my 
youthful  love-dream  was  no  longer  here,  but  had  gone  to  live 
somewhere  in  a  large  city.  I  came  away  sad  at  heart,  dis- 
appointed ;  yet  better  so.  In  two-and-twenty  years,  Time,  in 
all    probability,    had   not  spared  her,   more   than  he  had  me. 

Ticul,  whither  we  are  bound,  is  reached  in  the  evening,  where, 
thanks  to  the  kind  offices  of  our  friend  Don  Antonio  Fajardo, 
a  house  has  been  secured  for  our  accommodation. 

Ticul  is  built  on  the  lower  slopes  of  the  Sierra,  which  runs 
in  a  line  from  north-west  to  south-east  of  the  peninsula.  It 
is  a  small  place,  with  a  few  good  houses  and  shops ;  every- 
thing has  a  look  of  newness,  as  if  Ijuilt  but  yesterday,  save 
the  church  and   the  monastery  falling  into  decay,  in  which  lived 


Kabah  and  Uxmal. 


2>7S 


the  delightful  padrecito  Cirillo,  whose  pleasant  gossip  has  been 
so  charmingly  recorded  in  Stephens'  Journal.  Almost  the  only 
inhabitable  apartment  is  now  occupied  by  Cirillo's  brother,  a 
dear  old  fellow,  whose  cheery,  smiling  face  it  is  a  pleasure  to  see. 
We  make  the  "  Tienda,"  where  we  have  our  meals,  our  receiving- 
room  ;  our  visitors  are  the  schoolmaster,  some  Government 
employds,  the  Mayor,  and   Dr.   Cuevas,  an  eminent  archaeologist, 


YUCATEC  AND  TEOTIHUACAN   VASES. 


who  presented  me  with  a  stick  of  zapote,  cut  out  of  a  lintel 
found  at  Kabah.  Our  evenings  pass  pleasantly  enough,  in 
agreeable  conversation  regarding  the  ruins  found  in  this 
district. 

In  this  way  we  learn  that  the  hacienda  of  S.  Francisco, 
some  little  distance  from  Sacalun,  is  an  ancient  Indian  centre 
with  two  unexplored  mounds,  in  one  of  which  a  skeleton  and 
vases  in  good  preservation  were  found  some  years  since.  I 
was  seized   with   the  desire  to  explore  these  eminences,  but   my 


176  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


repeated  attempts  proved  bootless,  and  I  was  obliged  to  give 
up  the  enterprise. 

But  kind  friends  here  did  not  wish  me  to  go  away  empty- 
handed,  so  they  sent  me  some  vases  which  had  been  unearthed 
in  these  mounds,  just  as  I  was  sitting  down  in  the  evening  to 
record  my  failure.  Two  are  shown  in  our  cut,  on  each  side  of 
the  central  one  from  Teotihuacan. 

The  resemblance  between  the  ceramic  art  of  Yucatan  and  that 
of  the  table-land,  is  seen  at  a  glance.  Their  value  as  works  of 
art  is  nil,  but  the  peculiar  ornamentation,  common  to  all,  cannot 
be  over-estimated  from  the  point  of  view  of  our  theory.  On 
examining  this  pottery,  it  is  found  that  the  potter  made  the  vases 
with  reliefs,  which  he  coloured,  varnished,  and  baked  before  he 
gave  them  to  a  carver  who  sculptured  devices  and  figures  with 
a  flint  chisel,  as  seen  on  the  larger  Yucatec  vase,  where  palms, 
or,  more  likely,  a  symbolical  figure  was  portrayed.  The  other  is  a 
sitting  figure,  with  a  feather  head-dress,  and  tassels  towards  the 
top ;  whilst  the  Teotihuacan  fragment  represents  a  man  in  a 
stooping  posture,  a  stick  or  sceptre  in  his  right  hand,  offering 
an  indeterminate  object  with  his  left  to  some  figure  engraved  on 
the  portion  of  the  vase  which  has  disappeared. 

Our  route  to  the  ruins  of  Kabah  lay  through  the  hacienda 
of  Santa  Anna,  to  which  they  properly  belong  ;  but  a  path  had  to 
be  opened  first  through  woods  and  forests,  and  as  the  work 
would  take  two  days  at  least,  we  accepted  an  invitation  to 
witness  an  entertainment  given  by  Don  Fajardo  at  his  hacienda 
of  Yokat. 

Entertainments  are  as  well  attended  in  this  part  of  the  world 
by  this  pleasure-loving  people,  as  in  a  city.  This  will  last  three 
days,  and  will  include  national  dances,  bull-fights,  high  banqueting 
and  junketing.  The  owner,  with  natural  pride,  shows  me  the 
vast  proportions  of  his  noble  mansion,  which   stands  at  the  foot 


KaBAH    and    UxMAL.  ^']'] 


of  a  hill  and  is  surrounded  by  beautiful  gardens  full  of  flowers. 
This  being  Sunday  we  all  go  to  chapel,  consisting  in  a  long 
rambling  gallery.  Mass  is  followed  by  a  sermon  in  Maya,  which 
to  my  ear  is  very  soft  and  pleasing. 

The  congregation  numbers  a  large  proportion  of  pretty 
women,  all  in  their  gala  dress,  kneeling  and  devout  ;  but  at 
the  "  Ite  missa  est,"  they  disappear  swifter  than  a  flight  of 
birds.  I  am  introduced  to  the  belles  of  the  impending  ball  ; 
refreshments  are  handed  round,  when  every  one  of  these  houris 
comes  up  to  dip  her  rosy  lips  in  my  glass  ;  such  is  the  fashion 
here,  which  I  need  hardly  say  I  think  a  very  nice  fashion 
indeed.  The  guests  are  arriving  very  fast,  filling  already  the 
courtyard,  and  the  immense  open  space  fronting  the  house 
which  has  been  turned  into  a  circus.  Opposite  to  this  is  the 
ballroom,  a  leafy  bower  of  flowering  shrubs  and  evergreens  ; 
here  and  there  are  booths  supplying  thirsty  customers  with 
fiery  staventtun  and  English  beer ;  and  ere  long  these  people, 
usually  so  grave  and  silent,  make  the  whole  place  resound  with 
the  hubbub  of  thousands  of  voices  and  peals  of  merry  laughter 
and  joyful  cries.  The  bulls  have  come  ;  the  circus  is  invaded 
by  an  Immense  multitude,  all  eager  to  see  the  sport.  For  my 
part,  I  prefer  looking  up  at  the  galleries,  crowded  with  beaming, 
bewitchinsf    Meztlzas.      Ye    immortals !      What    faces    and    what 

o 

figures!  Mother  Eve  must  have  been  a  Meztiza,  who  "once 
beguiled,   is  ever  beguiling." 

Curious  enough.  In  this  assemblage,  numbering  over  2, coo 
people,  hardly  400  men  are  found.  As  a  fact,  this  dispropor- 
tion between  the  masculine  and  feminine  element  is  more  or 
less  noticeable  in  all  warm  countries,  where  the  births  average 
five  females  to  two  males.  This  degeneracy  does  not  apply 
to  the  Indian  portion  of  the  population,  for  the  civil  wars,  in 
which   great  numbers  of  able-bodied  men  perished,  have  added. 


3/8  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


no  doubt,  to  the  feminine  excess  of  the  population.  It  is  only 
fair  to  state  that  this  is  mere  assumption  on  my  part,  based  on 
no  statistics,  so  that  the  fact  may  be  exaggerated.  What  the 
morals  of  the  natives  are  in  face  of  a  quasi-seraglio  life,  is  a 
somewhat  delicate  question  not  easily  answered.  Broadly  speak- 
ing, it  may  be  said  that  the  Indians  are  not  a  virtuous  race  ; 
the  frequency  of  these  entertainments,  extending  over  several 
days  or  rather  nights,  is  hardly  conducive  to  strict  propriety  of 
demeanour  in  an  impassioned,  amorous  people.  Be  that  as  it 
may,  this  assemblage  offers  many  interesting  types  for  observa- 
tion :  the  lower  grades  are  a  cross  between  the  Malay  and  the 
Chinese  ;  the  aquiline  nose  of  former  times  has  become  flat,  the 
eyes  somewhat  sloping  up,  the  lips  thick,  and  the  cheek-bones 
prominent,  while  wavy  hair  indicates  an  admixture  of  negro 
blood  ;  very  small  hands,  with  thumbs  so  undeveloped  as  to 
be  almost  simian,   are   also  observable. 

Wearied  of  the  tumult  and  the  discordant  sounds  of  native 
music,  of  national  dances,  which,  however  graceful,  pall  by 
their  sameness,  I  set  my  face  towards  Ticul,  to  look  after 
my  men  ;  when  to  my  great  relief  I  find  that  the  path  to 
the  ruins  has  been  cleared,  and  I  can  start  whenever  I 
choose.  Don  Antonio  ^roes  with  us  to  the  hacienda  of  Santa 
Anna,  which  is  to  be  our  head-quarters ;  whence  volan-cochds 
will  easily  take  us  to  Kabah,  barely  three  miles  distant. 
This  hacienda  was  abandoned  like  so  many  others  during  the 
social  war,  and  is  now  being  restored  with  the  material 
of  an  important  pyramid  lying  at  a  short  distance,  once 
crowned  by  edifices  now  totally  demolished.  I  notice  square 
pillars  in  the  detritus  in  good  preservation  topped  by  Doric 
capitals,  and  curiously  enough,  the  angles  are  cut  like  the 
stones  of  our  pavements,  and  bear  evident  traces  of  a  metal 
instrument. 


Kaisaii  and   Uxmal. 


379 


The  road  to  the  ruins  has  been  so  incompletely  cleared,  that 
we  are  in  danger  of  being  upset  every  minute  by  rocks  and  trees 
lying  right  over  our  path.  In  vain  we  desire  the  driver  to 
moderate  his  speed,  to  be  more  careful,   we  might  as  well  order 


TRIUMPHAL   ARCH   OF   KABAH   (FROM    STEPHENS) 


the  wind  to  be  still  ;  and  at  a  sharp  turn  of  the  road  the  volan 
comes  with  a  tremendous  crash  against  the  trunk  of  a  laro-e  tree, 
and  we  are  pitched  out ;  the  top  of  the  carriage  is  smashed,  and 
with  aching  bones  and  a  few  scratches,  we  find  our  way  to  the 
ruins   on  foot,  now  fortunately  very  near. 


380  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

Ancient  historians  have  made  no  mention  whether  of  Kabah, 
Sachey,  Labphak,  or  Iturbide,  cities  lying  thirty  or  forty 
leaofues  south  of  IMerida,  Nevertheless,  their  rulers  are  inci- 
dentally  mentioned  under  the  general  appellation  of  '^ people  of  the 
Sierra.""  A  glance  at  the  map  will  show  the  position  of  these 
cities  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountain  range  which  traverses 
the  peninsula. 

Kabah  was  an  important  city,  to  judge  from  its  monuments, 
which  extend  over  a  large  space,  consisting  of  high  pyramids, 
immense  terraces,  triumphal  arches,  and  stately  palaces.* 
Stephens,  who  visited  the  place  in  1842,  has  given  beautiful 
drawings  of  its  monuments  ;  but  the  village,  left  to  itself  since 
the  rebellion,  has  become  an  impenetrable  forest,  making  a 
thorough  exploration  almost  impossible.  We  were  only  able 
to  visit  half-a-dozen  structures,  of  which  only  two  are  still 
standing.  But  these,  coupled  with  those  at  Uxmal  and  Chichen, 
will  suffice  to  give  a  right  and  complete  idea  of  Yucatec  archi- 
tecture and  civilisation. 

The  front  of  the  first  palace  is  richly  decorated,  consisting 
of  large  figures  like  those  at  Chichen,  and  recalling  to  mind  the 
gigantic  superimposed  wooden  idols  met  in  the  islands  of  the 
Pacific.  The  ornamentation  of  this  monument  is  so  elaborate 
that  the  architecture  entirely  disappears  under  it.  Two  salient 
cornices  form  a  frame  to  immense  friezes  which,  in  their  details, 
would  compare  favourably  with  our  proudest  monuments.  The 
advanced  state  of  ruin  in  which  the  structure  is  found,  makes 
it   difficult  to  judge  of  its  original  plan  ;  but  enough  remains  to 

*  We  looked  in  vain  for  the  iriumpiial  and  solitary  arch  mentioned  by  Stephens, 
a  unique  specimen  of  this  kind  of  monument  in  America.  It  is  20  feet  high 
by  14  feet  wide;  and  we  shall  see  later  that  it  could  only  have  been  erected  to 
commemorate  a  victory  of  the  sovereign  of  Kabah.  The  reader  will  notice  that 
in  this  monument  the  corbel  vault  is  more  convex,  and  recalls  that  of  a  ruinous 
palace  at  Palenque. 


Kabaii  and  Uxmal. 


show  how   unHke   other  monuments  were   the  decorations   which 
extended  over  the  whole  facade,  some   162   feet. 


RUINS   OF    FIRST    PALACE    OF    KABAH. 


This  palace,  like  all  Yucatec  monuments,  rises  on  a  two- 
storied  pyramid  ;  fronting  it  is  a  vast  esplanade,  which  had  a 
cistern  on  each  side,  while  the  centre  was  occupied  by  a  "  picote." 


382  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


Over  the  front,  narrowing  towards  the  top,  was  a  decorative  wall, 
usually  found  in   Indian  structures.      Another  peculiarity  of  these 
monuments  is  their   facing  south  and  west,   and  north   and  east, 
instead  of  the  four  cardinal  points.     The  interior  of  this  edifice  has 
a   double  range    of  apartments,  the  finest  we  have   as  yet  seen, 
measuring  29  feet  long  by  9  feet  wide,  and  19  feet  high,  supported 
by  half  arches  of  overlapping  stones.     One  of  the  inner  chambers 
is  entered  from   the  front   apartment  by  three  steps   cut  from  a 
single  block  of  stone,  the  lower  step  taking  the  form  of  a  scroll. 
The  walls  at  the  sides,  although  half  demolished,  still  show  traces 
of  rich   decoration,   which   consisted   of  the   usual  device,   whilst 
the  projecting  great  figures  of  the  facade   are  also  noticeable  on 
the  steps,  on  each  side  of  which  are  large  round  eyes.     The  mouth 
was    below.        All  the  apartments,    and  probably   all    the    monu- 
ments, had  their  walls  painted  with   figures   and   inscriptions,   as 
shown  in   the   few  fragments  which  still  remain.       "  Among    the 
Mayas,"   says  Viollet-le-Duc,   "painting  went    hand-in-hand  with 
architecture,  supplementing  each  other."     A  picture  as  understood 
among  us  held   a  very  secondary  place,  while   outer  decorations 
were   all-important    in    the    monuments    at    Kabah,    which     were 
of  brilliant  colours,  and  must  have  greatly  enhanced  the  striking 
effect  produced    by  these   semi-barbarous,   yet  withal  magnificent 
edifices. 

The  second  palace,  160  yards  north-east  of  the  first,  is  like- 
wise reared  on  a  pyramid,  fronted  by  an  esplanade  with  two 
cisterns  and  a  picote  ;  it  has  besides  a  second  plateau,  consisting 
of  a  range  of  ruined  apartments.  A  flight  of  steps  to  the  centre, 
supported  by  a  half-triangular  arch,  leads  to  the  edifice.  This 
palace  is  only  16  feet  high,  and  in  strong  contrast  with  the 
rich,  elaborate  ornamentation  of  the  first.  Its  outer  walls  are 
plain,  except  groups  of  three  short  pilasters  each  surrounding 
the    edifice    above    the    cornice,    forming    a    sloping    rather    than 


Kauai  I  and  Uxmal. 


3^3 


perpendicular  frieze,  like  those  at  Palcnque,  and  in  most 
Yucatec  monuments.  The  front,  162  feet,  is  almost  entire  and 
pierced  by  seven  openings ;  two  have  columns  and  primitive 
rude  capitals,  corresponding  to  the  same  number  of  narrow  low 
apartments.  As  usual  the  ornamental  wall  is  narrowing  towards 
the  top,  and  is  distincdy  seen  through  the  vegetation  covering 
the  roof. 


/■•'  If '  ^ir  ■< '  *  ^*,  \ 


■3-?S 


SHOWING   STEPS   AND   INTERIOR   OF   FIRST   PALACE   OF    KABAH. 


The  rear  is  a  complete  ruin.  Traces  of  painting,  of  which 
tracings  were  made,  are  still  visible  in  the  central  chamber.  It 
was  here  that  I  thought  I  recognised  the  rude  drawing  of  a 
horse  and  his  rider,  which  was  hailed  with  Homeric  laughter  ; 
but,  although  I  was  mistaken  in  my  supposition,  I  was  very 
near  the  truth,  since  the  fact  I  erroneously  heralded  at  Kabah 
was  found  in  the  north.  The  discovery  is  due  to  S.  Salisbury, 
who,  in  1 86 1,  whilst  exploring  a  group  of  mounds  and  structures, 
near    the    hacienda    of    Xuyum,    fifteen    miles    north    of    Merida, 


384  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

unearthed  the  remains  of  two  Jwrscs  heads,  made  of  very  hard 
chalk,  with  bristhng  hair  Hke  a  zebra.*  The  work  shows 
considerable  artistic  skill,  and  the  explorer  thinks  that  it  formed 
part  of  some  bas-reliefs  which  had  belonged  to  the  demolished 
monuments.  Indeed,  it  is  highly  probable  that  these  heads 
were  placed  on  the  edifices  built  by  the  natives  between  Montejo's 
departure  in  1530  and  his  return  in  1541  ;  proving  that  the 
aborigines  had  skilfully  copied  the  Spanish  horses,  and  that 
there  was  at  Xuyum  one  monument  at  least  similar  to  those 
we   know.     To   comment  on  this  would  be  sheer  loss  of  time. 

To  the  left  of  this  building  Is  a  rectangular  pyramid,  with 
several  stories,  162  feet  at  the  base  by  113  feet.  Four  outer 
staircases  led  up  from  story  to  story  to  edifices  in  an  advanced 
state  of  ruin,  having  apartments  extending  all  round,  and  door- 
ways, some  supported  by  columns,  while  others  are  mere  openings, 
as  shown  in  our  drawing,  which  reproduces  the  north-west 
side.  In  this  monument  and  in  the  second  palace  are  found 
for  the  first  time  lintels  of  stone,  nearly  all  in  very  good 
preservation.  Historians  have  told  us  nothing  regarding  Kabah  ; 
nevertheless  we  have  some  guiding  landmarks  from  which  to 
reconstruct  its  history  and  that  of  Uxmal,  of  which  in  all 
probability  it  was  a  close  ally,  since  the  two  cities  He  at  a 
distance  of  five  leagues  from  each  other,  and  were  connected 
by  a  plastered  road,  traces  of  which  are  still  visible.  Consequently 
the  same  fate  must  have  been  common  to  both.  We  know 
that  a  century  before  the  Conquest  the  lord  of  Mayapan 
ruled  over  the  whole  peninsula,  having  razed  to  the  ground 
the  capitals  of  his  vanquished  rivals,  amongst  whom  were  the 
caciques  of  Uxmal,  Kabah,  Labna,  etc.  This  king  of  Mayapan 
Introduced    into    the    country    a    force    of    Mexican    soldiers    for 


*  Salisbury,  "The  Mayas,"  p.  25.     Worcester,  1877. 


2    C 


Kabaii  and   Uxmal.  387 


the  maintenance  of  his  authority  ;  *  and  to  ensure  the  good  be- 
haviour of  the  caciques  he  obHged  them  to  reside  at  his  court, 
where  their  state  of  vassalage  was  made  up  to  them  by  a  Hfe 
of  great   pomp,  at  the  expense  of  the  sovereign. t 

Now  as  the  Aztec  independence  only  dates  from  the  reign 
of  Itzcoatl  (1426),  their  conquests  and  subsequent  power  cannot 
be  earlier  than  the  reign  of  Montezuma  I.  (1440);  it  is  obvious, 
therefore,  that  they  were  not  in  a  position  to  send  reinforcements 
before  1440  to  the  ruler  of  Mayapan.  This  autocracy  lasted  but 
a  few  years  ;  a  coalition  of  the  people  of  the  Sierra  was  formed, 
war  broke  out,  the  king  of  Mayapan  was  vanquished,  the  city 
captured  and  sacked,  when  the  hostage  caciques  returned  to  their 
native  provinces.  Landa  places  this  event  in  1420,  whilst 
Herrera  gives  1460  as  the  probable  date.  We  think  the  latter 
justifies  his  chronology,  since  he  writes  "  that  seventy  years 
elapsed  between  the  fall  of  Mayapan  and  the  coming  of  the 
Spaniards,  varied  by  years  of  plenty,  storms,  pestilence,  intestine 
wars,  followed  by  twenty  years  of  peace  and  prosperity  down 
to  the  arrival  of  the  Europeans."! 

He  further  states  that  each  cacique  took  away  from  Mayapan  all 


*  Eligio  Ancona  writes  :  "  The  king  of  Mayapan,  whom  we  will  call  Cocom, 
distrusting  both  his  great  vassals  and  their  allies,  sought  the  support  of  foreigners 
against  them.  He  entered  into  negotiations  with  the  Aztec  military  authorities  of 
Tabasco  and  Xicalango"  (he  probably  means  Goatzacoalco,  for  it  is  certain  that  the 
Aztec  dominion  did  not  extend  beyond  that  limit),  "and  it  is  said  that  the  Mayapan 
ruler  promised  to  quarter  the  troops  they  should  send  to  his  capital.  Cocom's 
proposals  were  accepted,  and  a  strong  Nahua  garrison  entered  the  city.  The  names 
of  the  Mexican  leaders  given  in  the  Maya  MS.  are  A/izin-Teyut-C/ian  Tziniitecum, 
Taxcal,  Ponte-Mit  Kzkaiat  and  Kakaltecat."  All  the  traditions  are  agreed  on  the 
arrival  of  the  Mexicans  in  the  peninsula,  and  the  investigations  of  Don  Juan  Kanil 
show  that  the  witnesses  he  examined  swore  that  his  ancestors  had  come  from 
Mexico  by  order  of  Montezuma  the  Elder. — C.  E.  Ancona,  "  Hist,  de  Yucatan," 
Merida,  1878. 

t  Cogolludo,  lib.  IV.  cap.  iii. 

%  Herrera,  Decade  IV.  lib.  x.  cap.  iii, 

2  c  2 


38S  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

the  scientific  books  they  could  conveniently  carry,  and  that  on 
their  return  home  they  erected  temples  and  palaces,  which  is 
the  reason  why  so  many  buildings  are  seen  in  Yucatan  ;  that 
following  on  the  division  of  the  territory  into  independent 
provinces,  the  people  multiplied  exceedingly,  so  that  the  whole 
region  seemed  but  one  single  city."*  Landa  says  "the  monu- 
ments were  built  by  the  natives  in  possession  of  the  country 
at  the  time  of  the  Conquest,  since  the  bas-reliefs  represent  them 
with  their  types,  their  arms,  and  their  dress;  and  "that  on 
going  through  the  woods  and  forests,  groups  of  houses  and 
palaces  of  marvellous  construction  were  found."  t  This  is  suffi- 
ciently clear,  and  whether  these  monuments  were  inhabited  or 
not  at  the  coming  of  the  Spaniards,  is  beside  the  question.  On 
the  other  hand,  the  prosperity  mentioned  by  Herrera  and  Landa 
found  expression  in  the  peculiar  monument,  which  in  its  original 
plan  represented  the  florid  style,  always  observable  at  the  end 
or  the  brilliant  beginning  of  a  new  art,  being  the  reproduction  of 
an  older  style,  varied  by  elaborate  ornamentation  of  questionable 
taste. 

It  is  usual  for  a  nation  to  commemorate  a  return  to  in- 
dependence by  the  erection  of  triumphal  arches,  statues,  and 
monuments.  That  this  was  the  case  at  Kabah  is  shown  in 
the  two  remarkable  bas-reliefs  in  our  drawings,  which  were 
probably  part  of  a  monument  raised  in  honour  of  the  victory 
obtained  by  the  allied  caciques.  Like  the  Tizoc  stone,  these 
bas-reliefs  represent  a  conqueror,  in  the  rich  Yucatec  costume, 
receiving  the  sword  of  a  captive  Aztec ;  the  latter  is  easily 
recognised  from  his  plainer  head-dress  and  the  maxtli  girding 
his   loins.       His    head-dress    is    identical    to    those    described    by 


*  Herrera,  Decade  IV.  lib.  x.  cap.  ii. 

t  Landa,  "  Relacion  de  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan,''  sec,  x,  p.  59. 


Kai;aii  and    Uxmai, 


3«9 


Lorenzana  in  his  letters  to  Cortcz  and  Charles  V.,  and  not 
unlike  those  which  the  Mexican  conquerors  sometimes  exacted 
from  their  vanquished  foes.  The  other  bas-relief  has  the  same 
characteristics,  but  the  head-dress  is  even  more  significant,  for 
it   is   fashioned  out    of  the   head    of  an   animal  like   those  of  the 


I  H'^c" 


JJJ.JUl 


BAS-RELIEFS  AT   KABAH   (FROM   STEPHENS). 


J 


Mexican  manuscripts.  In  this  relief  the  conqueror  spares  the 
life  of  the  vanquished,  bidding  him  depart  in  peace.  It  is 
obvious,  nay,  we  affirm,  that  this  is  a  representation  of  a  battle 
between  Yucatecs  and  Mexicans  dating  somewhere  between  1460 


390  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


and  1470  ;*  since  we  know  that  Mayapan  was  the  only  city  which 
implored  the  aid  of  the  Aztecs,  and  that  after  its  destruction 
the  inhabitants  obtained  permission  to  establish  themselves  in 
the  province  of  Maxcanu,  east  of  Merida,  where  their  descendants 
are  found  to  this  very  day.  These  repetitions  were  necessary  to 
convince  a  class  of  archaeologists  who  claim  for  these  monuments 
a  hoary  antiquity. 

*  Compare  tlie  striking  resemblance  between  the  Aztec  warrior  in  our  Temala- 
catl  drawing,  chap.  iii.  p.  42,  and  tlie  kneeling  figure. 


HACIENDA   OF    UXMAL. 


CHAPTER    XX. 


UXMAL. 


From  Kabah  to  Santa  Helena — A  Maya  Village — Uxmal — Hacienda — The  Gover- 
nor's Palace — Cisterns  and  Reservoirs — The  Nunnery  and  the  Dwarfs  House — 
Legend — General  View — "  Cerro  de  los  Sacrificios  " — Don  Peon's  Charter — 
Stephens'  Plan  and  Measurements — Friederichsthal — Conclusion — Our  Return. 

From  Kabah  to  Santa  Helena  we  travel  at  last  on  a  good  road, 
wide  enough  to  secure  us  against  collisions,  smooth  enough  and 
shady  enough  to  make  locomotion  highly  agreeable  ;  a  sensation 
which  is  increased  rather  than  diminished  on  reaching  the 
beautiful  native  village  of  Santa  Helena,  extending  over  a  wide 
expanse    divided    in   square   blocks  like    a    modern  town.      Each 


392  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

dwelling  is  planted  ^vith  riruc/os,  with  orange-trees,  a  profusion 
of  flowers,  and  encompassed  by  a  fencing  wall.  Near  the  huts 
are  aerial  gardens,  made  by  means  of  poles  fixed  in  the  ground 
supporting  twined  branches  covered  over  with  a  few  inches  of 
earth,  where  the  cottagers  grow  flowers  and  vegetables  ;  while 
the  yard  is  occupied  by  multitudes  of  cackling  hens,  quacking 
ducks,  and  grunting  pigs.  The  church  stands  in  the  centre  of 
the  village,  on  the  site  of  an   ancient  temple. 

This  hamlet  was  like  a  vision  of  the  past,  for  from  all  we  had 
seen  and  knew,  it  was  easy  to  conjure  up  what  it  had  been  in 
former  times.  Nor  will  it  seem  unnatural  that  little  or  no  modifica- 
tion should  be  observable  in  an  Indian  village,  if  it  be  considered 
what  powerful  factors  are  traditions,  instincts,  and  surroundings, 
particularly  with  a  rural  population.  When  the  Spaniards  imposed 
their  religion  on  the  Mayas,  they  did  so  by  the  sword  rather 
than  persuasion  ;  but  the  natives  retained  their  culture,  their 
customs,  and  their  national  dress,  whereas  the  conquerors  forgot 
their  own  language,  were  modified  at  the  contact  of  the  subdued 
race,  and  adopted  their  ancient  institutions,  the  better  to  replace 
the  caciques, 

Yucatan,  as  vv-e  have  seen,  was  under  a  feudal  system  of 
government  before  the  Conquest,  when  it  was  followed  by 
"  encomiendas,"  giving  the  Spaniards  the  right  to  enforce 
the  services  of  the  natives  to  the  number  of  one  or  two 
thousand  to  each  cavalier  according  to  his  im|)ortance.  The 
marks  of  this  system  are  observable  in  all  great  buildings  which 
formerly  were  a  centre  or  a  manor-house  ;  whilst  from  the 
number  of  pyramids  niay  be  surmised  the  power  of  the  cacique 
once  the  lord  of  the  locality.  At  the  present  day,  it  is  true, 
centres  are  few  in  number,  [ind  in  consequence  of  the  cruel 
treatment  of  the  natives  by  the  conquerors,  they  have  fiillen 
to  a  tenth   oi'  their  primili\-e  numerical  strength  ;  yet  cities,  ham- 


UxMAL.  393 

lets,  and  haciendas  are  even  now  standing  witnesses  of  how  far 
superior  was  the  condition  of  the  Mayas  before  the  coming  of 
the  Europeans.  Nothing  is  changed,  save  that  the  ancient  lords 
have  fallen  into  servile  condition,  that  haciendas  and  Moorish- 
Spanish  structures  have  superseded  the  princely  palaces  and 
the  mansions  of  the  gentry,  and  that  the  straight  American 
doorway  and  triangular  arch  are  replaced  by  the  Arab-Hispano 
arch ;  but  if  the  ancient  palaces  are  a  ruinous  mass,  the  huts 
of  the  peasantry  cluster  now  as  of  old  around  the  manor-house. 
Religion  alone  has  changed  ;  the  church  has  succeeded  to  the 
temple  without  replacing  it ;  the  Christian  dogma  seems  cold 
and  arid  to  a  singularly  mystic  people,  who  in  the  days  of  their 
national  life  peopled  the  forests  with  votive  chapels  and  mysterious 
voices. 

To  continue  :  we  reach  safely  Sac-Akal,  a  wretched  hacienda 
lost  in  a  trackless  wilderness,  when  we  disappear  in  the  dense 
vegetation  which  completely  invades  our  path,  and  after 
much  difficulty  we  arrive  at  the  hacienda  of  Uxmal  late  in  the 
evening.  We  are  received  by  the  mayor-domo,  Don  Perez, 
and,  under  the  auspices  of  his  charming  daughter,  an  excellent 
supper  is  soon  got  ready  ;  when,  with  feet  under  the  table, 
and  a  pleasant  talk  with  our  host,  the  fatigues  and  harass 
of  the  journey  are  soon  forgotten.  The  hacienda  is  no  longer 
the  dismal  habitation  of  former  days  ;  on  its  site  is  reared 
an  imposing  pile  of  building,  containing  lofty  apartments, 
surrounded  by  open  cloisters.  A  sugar  factory  gives  employ- 
ment to  a  large  number  of  hands,  while  a  tramway  connects 
it  with  the  sugar  plantations,  and  facilitates  the  transport  to 
the  mill.  All  is  bustle,  movement,  and  noise ;  but  the  place 
is  now  as  unhealthy  as  ever,  and  the  mayor-domo  himself  is 
a  martyr  to  fever  and  ague. 

The  ruins   are    some    two    thousand    yards    beyond.      We  set 


394  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


out  the  next  clay  to  visit  them  ;  but  the  aspect  of  these  old 
palaces,  which  I  had  looked  forward  to  visiting  with  so  much 
anticipation,  was  most  disappointing.  Owing  to  the  vegetation 
which  is  suffered  to  clothe  everything  with  its  thick  green 
mantle,  the  general  outline  of  the  city,  nay,  an  entire  structure, 
is  no  longer  discernible.  From  their  state  of  good  preserva- 
tion some  monuments  at  Uxmal  seem  to  belong  to  the  revival 
we  noticed  at  Kabah,  and  to  be  more  recent  than  those  at 
Chichen. 

The  place  has  been  so  often  visited  and  written  about  that 
we  will  limit  ourselves  with  describing  the  palaces  reproduced 
in  our  cuts,  noticing,  at  the  same  time,  any  fresh  indication 
in   support   of  our  theory. 

The  Governor's  Palace,  reared  on  three  successive  colossal 
terraces,  is  the  most  extensive,  the  best  known,  and  the 
most  magnificent  monument  of  Central  America ;  its  orna- 
mentation is  in  turns  simple  or  very  elaborate.  The  frieze, 
which  runs  in  a  line  of  325  feet,  having  a  row  of  colossal 
heads,  divided  in  panels,  filled  alternately  with  grecques  in 
high  relief,  and  diamond  or  lattice-work,  is  most  striking  in 
its  effect.  The  palace  looks  new,  although  it  has  been 
abandoned  for  over  three  hundred  years  ;  and  it  would  be  entire 
had  it  not  been  for  the  vandalism  of  its  owners,  who  used 
the  stones  of  the  basement  for  the  erection  of  their  hacienda. 

The  youthful  appearance  of  this  edifice  is  obvious  to  the 
observer,  for  monuments,  like  men,  carry  more  or  less  their 
age  on  their  countenance,  which  a  thoughtful  mind  can  easily 
read.  Their  wrinkles  are  seen  in  the  fissures  of  their  walls, 
in  their  stones  eaten  away  by  the  elements,  whilst  the  moss, 
the  trees,  and  the  lianas  mantling  over  them,  complete  their 
hoary  exterior. 

A  Iraditioi]   derives  the  name  of  Uxmal  from   a  word  meaning 


,^111 


UXMAL.  397 

"thrice  built;"  whether  the  town  was  demohshed  and  recon- 
structed, or  whether  its  monuments  were  built  three  times,  does 
not  appear.  The  latter  version  would  indicate  the  Indian  method 
of  building.  In  fact,  this  is  seen  in  all  our  drawings  of  the  palace, 
where  the  fallen  edifice  shows  that  the  inner  wall  is  in  a  perfect 
state  of  preservation,  forming  an  independent  work.  These  inner 
walls  formed  the  apartments  of  the  edifice,  and  in  all  probability 
were  perpendicular  to  a  height  of  some  6  to  9  feet,  when  the  side 
walls  began  to  approach  each  other  so  as  to  form  the  false  vault 
(triangular  arch)  of  the  double  range  of  apartments  of  the 
palace. 

This  was  the  shell  or  first  construction.  Then  the  interval 
between  the  arches  was  filled  by  layers  of  stone,  whilst  the  outside 
walls,  resting  on  the  arches,  were  solid  masonry.  This  was  the 
second  construction.  Then  came  the  third,  when  the  outer  walls 
were  covered  with  tenons  and  sculptures.  It  should  be  added 
that  this  mode  of  building  is  applicable  to  all  stone  structures, 
and  may  have  been  generally  adopted. 

Two  cisterns  and  a  picote  are  found  on  the  esplanade  facing 
the  palace.  The  entrance  or  mouth  to  each  cistern  is  a  circular 
opening,  9  feet  deep  by  16  feet  in  diameter.  Similar  excavations 
are  of  frequent  occurrence  throughout  the  city  of  Uxmal  and  the 
vicinity,  where  they  were  chiefly  used  by  the  lower  orders.  There 
were  also  great  artificial  reservoirs,  with  cisterns  at  the  bottom 
for  collecting  rain-water. 

The  decoration  on  the  main  entrance  of  this  palace  deserves 
particular  mention.  The  wooden  lintels  have  been  removed,  the 
projecting  cornice  has  fallen  ;  but  above  it  the  walls  were  covered 
with  ornamentation  in  high  relief  of  infinite  skill  and  magnificence, 
which,  alas !  has  been  destroyed  or  carried  away  by  early  ex- 
plorers. Higher  still  are  three  eagles  with  half-spread  wings, 
followed  by  a  circular  pedestal  supporting  the  mutilated  bust  of 


198 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


a  human  figure,  without  arms,  and  whose  head,  now  deficient,  was 
surmounted  by  a  lofty  plumed  head-dress.  In  the  plinth  are  three 
heads  of  Roman  type,  beautifully  executed  ;  while  on  each  side 
of  the  main  figure  are  the  inscriptions  which  we  reproduce. 

At  Uxmal,  all 
the  lintels  over 
the  doorways  are 
of  wood,  of  which 
a  large  proportion 
is  in  a  perfect  state 
of  preservation 
— a  clear  proof  of 
their  recent  period. 
Nor  were  these  the 
only  pieces  of  wood 
used  in  these  build- 
ings :  across  the 
ceilings  from  side  to 
side,  and  about  mid- 
height,  stretched 
small  wooden 
beams,  the  ends  of 
which  were  built  in 
the  stone-work,  as 
seen    by   the   holes 

PORTION    OF   THE   (JOVERNOU's    lALACE,   UXMAL.  jj-j        [|-j^      Walls        and 

the  ends  of  the 
beams  which  have  not  completely  disappeared.  We  have  said 
in  a  former  chapter  that  doors  were  unknown  to  the  aborigines  ; 
here  four  rings  or  stone  hooks  are  found  inside  the  doorways 
near  the  top,  from  which  it  is  easy  to  conjecture  that  a  wooden 
board  was   placed   inside   against   the  opening,   and  kept  in  place 


Ux.MAL. 


399 


J  I— 


C 


'^:r 


PLAN   OF   NUXNERY   OF    UXMAL   (FROM   STEI'HENS). 


by  two  transversal  bars  entering  the  stone  hooks.  It  is  the 
only  place  where  I  have  observed  this  innovation,  which  seems 
to  indicate  a  later  epoch  for  Uxmal. 

Phallus    worship   was   recognised   and  practised   both    on    the 


400 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


plateaux  and  in  Yucatan,  and  numerous  traces  have  been  found 
everywhere  ;  whilst  here,  a  collection  is  to  be  seen  in  the 
Governor's  Palace. 

The  Nunnery  is  the  largest  building  at  Uxmal  ;  if  less 
magnificent  than  the  Governor's  Palace,  its  ornamentation  is 
throughout    exceedingly    rich,    varied,    and    elaborate.     We    give 


iNORTlI    WING    FAC'ADIi  OF   THE   NUNNERY   OF   UXMAL. 


Stephens'  ])lan  and  measurements.  This  monument,  su]:>ported 
on  three  superimposed  terraces,  forms  a  vast  (|uadrangle 
consisting  of  four  wings  of  different  dimensions,  surrounding 
a  court  258  feet  by  214  feet.  The  southern  front  is  279  feet 
long,  while  the  centre  is  occupied  by  the  main  entrance, 
10  feet  8  inches  wide,  with  a  triangular  arch  some  20  feet  high. 
This    side     is    less     richly    decorated     than     the     rest.       Facing 


UXMAL.  401 

this  entrance  stands  the  northern  wing,  the  ornamenta- 
tion of  which  is  wonderfully  diversified,  consisting  of 
grecques,  lattice-work,  and  bas-reliefs,  representing  birds  and 
human  beings,  whilst  small  porticoes,  intersected  by  pavilions 
with  the  usual  superimposed  great  idols,  are  found  every- 
where. The  southern  front  is  reared  on  a  terrace  which 
is  reached  by  a  stairway  264  feet  long  by  95  feet  wide, 
and  about  25  feet  high;  it  is  pierced  by  thirteen  openings, 
corresponding  to  a  range  of  thirteen  small  apartments  two  deep. 
The  western  wing,  almost  entirely  destroyed,  gives  nevertheless 
a   orood   idea  of  its  fine   ornamentation.      It  consisted   of  a  frieze 

o 

divided  into  panels  with  the  usual  devices,  and  huge  Indian 
statues  in  high  relief;  two  immense  feathered  serpents  wreathed 
the  panels  occupying  the  whole  length  of  the  facade,  173  feet 
from  end  to  end,  whilst  the  heads,  and  the  tails  with 
rattles,  met  at  the  extremities,  like  those  on  the  table-land.  The 
eastern  wing  is  entire  and  almost  intact ;  the  front  measures 
158  feet,  having  an  elegant  frieze  composed  of  stone  trellis- 
work,  intersected  by  serpentine  trophies  disposed  in  fan-like 
fashion,  while  towards  the  top  are  symbolic  figures  admirably 
treated.  This  side  is  severe  in  design,  more  simple,  and  in 
better  taste  than  the  rest.  The  Nunnery  consisted  of  eighty- 
eight  apartments,  of  all  dimensions,  varying  from  19  feet  to  32 
feet  long. 

The  Dwarf's  House,  also  the  Casa  del  Adivino,  the  Prophet's 
House,  is  a  charming  temple  crowning  a  pyramid  with  a  very 
steep  slope  100  feet  high.  It  consists  of  two  parts  :  one  reared 
on  the  upper  summit,  the  other  a  kind  of  chapel  lower  down, 
facing  the  town.  It  was  richly  ornamented,  and  presumably 
dedicated  to  a  great  deity.  Two  stairways  facing  east  and  west 
led  to  these  buildings.  Padre  Cogolludo,  w^ho  visited  this  temple 
in  1656,  is  the  first  to  complain  of  the  steep  staircase,  which  caused 


402 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


his  head  to  swim.  He  found  in  one  of  these  apartments  offerings 
of  cocoa  and  copal  wJiich  had  been  burnt  very  recently ;  con- 
sequently, fifteen  years  after  the  Conquest  the  natives  were  still 
sacrificing  to  their  gods,  and  practising  their  superstitions  in  their 
own   temples.       That    these   edifices  were    entire    in   Cogolludo's 


;-  'ikf-^ 


1  / 


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JiL 


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IF-i^h 


srrr 


ft  MM'^  {1W"L  t    f 


if 


iH)i  ri,  tiirm  ■nm\^nn!''i'i'wiv^i 


Ti>^Jl!i->lA*^ 


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iiMMtiiiiiitiiiW 


SHOWING    DETAILS    OK    EASTERN    TATAUE   OF    THE    NUNNERY,   UXMAL. 


time  is  beyond  doubt,  since  the  Governor's  Palace,  the  eastern 
and  southern  sides  of  the  Nunnery,  are  still  standing.  They 
appeared  new  to  Lizana,  who  {i6i6)  says:  "These  buildings 
are  alike  both  in  style  and  architecture  ;  all  are  reared  on  sup- 
porting mounds  (/v/,  plural  kites),  which  inclines  one  to  think 
that  they  were  built  at  the  same  time,  by  the  order  of  one  guiding 
head,   seeing  that  they  are  similar.       Some  look   so  new  and  so 


UXMAL. 


40: 


^'.v;\r'! 


*'  Si  \l 


THE  dwarf's  house  OF  UXMAL. 


clean,  their  wooden  lintels  so  perfect,  that  they  do  not  seem  to 
/mve  been  built  more  than  twenty  year's.  These  palaces  must  have 
been    used  as   temples   and  sanctuaries,  for    the    dwellings  of  the 


2    D 


404  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


natives    were    thatched,     and    always    in     the     depths     of     the 
forests."  * 

This  quotation  is  not  indicative  of  very  early  monuments, 
while  it  shows  that  the  similarity  of  the  monuments  was  noticed 
and  recorded  by  the  first  explorers  ;  it  will  not,  therefore,  appear 
unnatural  that  aided  by  documents,  when  we  write  the  history  of 
one  monument  should  be  equivalent  to  writing  the  history  of 
all  ;  and  that  the  architectural  manifestations  which  are  identical 
throughout  Central  America  should  be  ascribed  to  one  people, 
the  Toltecs.  The  culture  of  a  nation  is  gauged  by  their 
monuments ;  if  so,  where  are  the  structures  marking  the  existence 
of  the  Toltecs  ?  Although  of  great  solidity,  and  not  four 
hundred  years  old,  had  they  entirely  disappeared  at  the  time 
of  the  Conquest,  and  are  the  monuments  we  now  behold 
the  remains  of  ancient  buildings  unknown  to  them  ?  But 
such  a  conclusion  is  belied  by  history  and  tradition.  We  will 
terminate  these  discussions  with  a  few  words  from  Cogolludo, 
who  says  of  these  edifices :  "  They  are  about  the  same  as 
those  in  New  Spain,  described  by  Torquemada  in  his  '  Indian 
Monarchy.' "  f 

Stephens  has  a  legend  relating  to  the  Dwarf's  House,  which 
we  reproduce:  "An  old  woman  lived  alone  in  her  hut,  rarely 
leaving  her  chimney-corner.  She  was  much  distressed  at  having 
no  children  ;  in  her  grief,  one  day  she  took  an  ^^^^  wrapped 
it  up  carefully  in  a  cotton  cloth,  and  put  it  in  a  corner  of  her 
hut.  She  looked  at  it  every  day  with  great  anxiety,  but  no 
change  in  the  o.^^  was  observable  ;  one  morning,  however,  she 
found  the  shell  broken,  and  a  lovely  tiny  creature  was  stretching 
out  its  arms  to  her.     The  old  woman  was  in  raptures  ;  she  took 

*  Lizana,  chap.  ii.    This  author  does  not  take  into  consideration  the  abandon- 
ment of  the  cities  by  the  natives  at  the  Conquest, 
t  Cogolludo,  tome  i.  lib.  iv.  cap.  vi. 


UXMAL.  405 

it  to  her  heart,  gave  it  a  nurse,  and  was  so  careful  of  it,  that  at 
the  end  of  a  year  the  baby  walked  and  talked  as  well  as  a  grown- 
up man  ;  but  he  stopped  growing.  The  good  old  woman  in  her 
joy  and  delight  exclaimed  that  the  baby  should  be  a  great  chief. 
One  day,  she  told  him  to  go  to  the  king's  palace  and  engage 
him  in  a  trial  of  strength.  The  dwarf  begged  hard  not  to  be 
sent  on  such  an  enterprise ;  but  the  old  woman  insisted  on 
his  going,  and  he  was  obliged  to  obey.  When  ushered  into 
the  presence  of  the  sovereign,  he  threw  down  his  gauntlet  ;  the 
latter  smiled,  and  asked  him  to  lift  a  stone  of  three  arobes 
(75  lb,).  The  child  returned  crying  to  his  mother,  who  sent 
him  back,  saying:  'If  the  king  can  lift  the  stone,  you  can  lift 
it  too.'  The  king  did  take  it  up,  but  so  did  the  dwarf.  His 
strength  was  tried  in  many  other  ways,  but  all  the  king  did 
was  as  easily  done  by  the  dwarf.  Wroth  at  being  outdone 
by  so  puny  a  creature,  the  prince  told  the  dwarf  that  unless 
he  built  a  palace  loftier  than  any  in  the  city,  he  should  die.  The 
affrighted  dwarf  returned  to  the  old  woman,  who  bade  him  not 
to  despair,  and  the  next  morning  they  both  awoke  in  the  palace 
which  is  still  standing.  The  king  saw  with  amazement  the 
palace  ;  he  instantly  sent  for  the  dwarf  and  desired  him  to  collect 
two  bundles  of  cogoiol  (a  kind  of  hard  wood),  with  one  of  which 
he  would  strike  the  dwarf  on  the  head,  and  consent  to  be  struck 
in  return  by  his  tiny  adversary.  The  latter  again  returned  to 
his  mother  moanincj  and  lamentino;  ;  but  the  old  woman  cheered 
him  up,  and  placing  a  tortilla  on  his  head,  sent  him  back  to 
the  king.  The  trial  took  place  in  the  presence  of  all  the  State 
grandees  ;  the  king  broke  the  whole  of  his  bundle  on  the  dwarf's 
head  without  hurting  him  in  the  least,  seeing  which  he  wished 
to  save  his  head  from  the  impending  ordeal,  but  his  word 
had  been  passed  before  his  assembled  court,  and  he  could  not 
well    refuse.      The    dwarf   struck,    and    at    the    second    blow,    the 


4o5  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

king's  skull  was  broken  to  pieces.  The  spectators  immediately 
proclaimed  the  victorious  dwarf  their  sovereign.  After  this 
the  old  woman  disappeared ;  but  in  the  village  of  Mani,  fifty 
miles  distant,  is  a  deep  well  leading  to  a  subterraneous  passage 
which  extends  as  far  as  Merida,  In  this  passage  is  an  old 
woman  sitting  on  the  bank  of  a  river  shaded  by  a  great  tree, 
havino-  a  serpent  by  her  side.  She  sells  water  in  small 
quantities,  accepting  no  money,  for  she  must  have  human  beings, 
innocent  babies,  which  are  devoured  by  the  serpent.  This  old 
woman   is  the  dwarf's  mother." 

Uxmal  is  the  only  city  where  the  monuments  are  so  grouped 
as  to  make  it  possible  to  take  a  panoramic  view,  which  the  reader 
can  follow  one  by  one  in  our  drawing.  To  the  left,  in  the 
distance,  is  the  "  Casa  de  la  Vieja,"  the  Old  Woman's  House  ; 
next  comes  the  Governor's  Palace,  sho'wing  the  west  side  and 
about  three-fourths  of  the  edifice  ;  more  in  front,  to  the  right, 
the  "  Casa  de  las  TortuQ^as,"  Turtle  House,  so  called  from  a  row 
of  turtles  occurring  at  regular  intervals  above  the  upper  cornice. 
To  the  rear,  a  great  pyramid  crowned  by  a  vast  platform,  without 
monuments,  known  as  "  Cerro  de  los  Sacrificios,"  Mound  of 
Sacrifice.  It  is  on  the  plan  of  the  Mexican  temples,  which  con- 
sisted, like  this  monument,  of  a  pyramid  with  small  wood  chapels 
containing  idols  and  the  terrible  techcatl.  The  Toltecs,  who  did 
not  practise  human  sacrifice,  had  real  temples  on  the  summits 
of  their  pyramids,  like  those  in  Yucatan,  where  they  developed 
this  kind  of  architecture.  Consequently,  if  human  sacrifices  are 
met  among  the  Mayas,  they  must  be  attributed  to  Mexican 
influence,  and  all  writers  agree  that  the  monuments  devoted  to 
this  horrible  practice  date  from  the  fifteenth  century  (1440),  and 
are  of  Aztec  origin. 

To  the  right  of  this  mound  Is  another  pyramid,  having  several 
stories   like  the  Castillo   at    Chichen,  and  similar  monuments   at 


UXMAL.  409 

Palenque  ;  it  was  crowned  by  a  beautiful  temple,  now  in  a  very 
ruined  condition.  Still  to  the  riorht,  but  more  in  front,  is  the 
curious  building  known  as  "  Casa  de  las  Palomas,"  Pigeon  House, 
owing  to  immense  peaks  terminating  the  decorative  wall,  pierced 
by  large  openings  arranged  in  horizontal  rows,  which  may  well 
have  served  as  a  pigeon-house.  It  should  be  added  that  at 
Uxmal  the  decorative  wall  is  only  found  in  the  most  dilapidated 
monuments  deficient  of  any  stucco  mouldings,  showing  an  earlier 
epoch. 

Fronting  these  buildings,  on  the  second  plan,  are  more  ruins  ; 
the  most  conspicuous  being  the  Tlachtli  or  Tennis-court,  and  the 
south  side  of  the  Nunnery  with  its  main  entrance,  which  gives 
access  to  the  inner  court,  where  traces  of  pavement  are  still  visible. 

An  official  document  given  by  Stephens  will  confirm  our 
views  respecting  these  monuments.  Stephens  found  it  among 
the  papers  of  the  Peon  family,  in  a  petition  from  Don  Lorenzo 
Evia  to  the  King  of  Spain  (1673),  praying  a  grant  of  four  leagues 
of  land  from  the  buildings  of  Uxmal,  "since,"  he  says,  "no 
injury  could  result  to  any  third  person,  but  on  the  contrary 
very  great  service  to  God  our  Lord,  because  with  that 
establishment  it  would  prevent  the  Indians  in  those  places 
from  worshipping  the  devil  in  the  ancient  buildings  which 
are  there,  having  In  them  their  idols,  to  which  they  burn  copal 
and  perform  other  detestable  sacrifices,  as  they  are  doing  every 
day  notoriously  and  publicly^  And  further:  "In  the  place 
called  the  edifices  of  Uxmal  and  Its  lands,  the  3rd  day  of  the 
month  of  January,  1688,"  etc.,*  concluding:  "In  virtue  of  the 
power  and  authority  given  me  by  the  Governor,  I  took  the  hand 
of  the  said  Lorenzo,  and  he  walked  with  me  all  over  Uxmal 
and    its  buildings,  opened   and    shut  some   doors,  cut   within   the 

*  Stephens,  "  Incidents  of  Travels  in  Yucatan,"  tome  i.  p.  323. 


4IO  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

space  some  trees,  picked  up  stones  and  threw  them  down, 
drew  water  from  one  of  the  aguados,  and  performed  other  acts 
of   possession." 

This  was  150  years  after  the  Conquest;  but  by  this  time 
the  reader  must  be  convinced  that  edifices,  notably  at  Uxmal, 
were  inhabited  before  and  after  the  coming  of  Europeans  ;  that 
they  were  recent,  and  that,  broadly  speaking,  the  monuments  of 
Yucatan  were  the  work  of  the  existing  race,  erected  at  various 
epochs  by  the  Toltec  conquerors. 

We  will  end  these  long  discussions  by  a  quotation  from  Baron 
Friedrichsthal,  regarding  the  probable  age  of  these  ruins,  showing 
that  our  theory  was  promulgated  some  forty-three  years  ago,  not 
only  by  Stephens,  but  also  by  the  illustrious  German  scholar : 
"  Historians  are  unanimous  in  ascribiuQ;  all  the  existinfj  stone 
Structures  to  the  Toltecs  or  the  Aztecs.  The  latter,  however, 
did  not  invade  New  Spain  until  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth 
century,  while  no  traces  are  found  of  their  having  migrated  south. 
Aztec  architecture  is  quite  distinct  from  the  Toltec,  which  a  com- 
parison of  Mexican  buildings  with  those  found  at  Palenque 
sufficiently  show ;  the  latter  being  generally  ascribed  to  the 
Toltecs  by  all  ancient  authorities.  The  evident  analogy  which 
exists  between  the  edifices  at  Palenque  and  the  ruins  in  Yucatan, 
favours  the  assumption  of  one  origin,  although  different  epochs 
must  be  assigned  to  each,  by  reason  of  the  progress  visible  in 
their  treatment.  To  ffx  these  epochs  with  some  show  of 
probability  seems  to  us,  if  not  impossible,  at  least  very  difficult. 
A  thorough  exploration,  supported  by  a  minute  and  exhaustive 
comparison  of  the  standing  remains,  coupled  with  a  careful  obser- 
vation of  the  causes  and  circumstances  which  have  produced  or 
contributed  to  the  state   of  dilapidation   wherein   these  ruins  are 


*  Stephens,  "  Incidents  of  I'ravels  in  Yucatan,"  tome  i.  p.  324. 


UXMAL.  41  I 

found,  could  alone  throw  some  light  across  the  darkness  which  has 
settled  over  these  monuments  for  so  many  centuries."  (This  is 
exactly  what  we  have  done.) 

"  The  solidity  of  these  edifices  is  not  equal  to  that  of  monu- 
ments of  other  nations,  which  were  built  throuo^hout  the  thickness 
of  their  walls  with  stones  of  different  size  ;  whereas  the  inside 
of  the  American  wall  is  a  rude  mixture  of  friable  mortar  and 
small  irregular  stones.  This  heterogeneous  composition  must 
have  produced  the  rupture  or  dislocation  of  the  outward  facing 
as  soon  as  the  whole  was  under  the  influence  of  atmospheric 
moisture,  and  the  rapid  infiltrations  which  were  produced  by 
its  upper  portions.  Moreover,  the  calcareous  stone  used  in 
these  buildings  is  considered  as  a  very  inferior  material,  as 
seen  by  the  progressive  decomposition  of  those  portions  of 
the  buildings  which  are  exposed  to  the  direct  influence  of 
the  north-east  wind,  and  the  consequent  action  of  the  pre- 
vailing rain.  Nor  is  this  all.  In  the  wood  used  in  almost 
all  northern  structures,  examples  are  met  of  resinous  wood 
having  lain  buried  or  submerged,  in  a  semi-state  of  petrifaction, 
over  a  thousand  years.  Now  in  the  Yucatec  ruins  the  cornices 
and  lintels  of  the  doorways,  of  zapote  wood,  were  exposed  to 
the  open  air.  This  wood,  although  very  hard,  not  being 
resinous  like  cedar,  is  attacked  by  devouring  insects.  For 
this  reason  it  does  not  seem  probable  that  these  woods  are 
more  than  six  or  seven  hundred  years  old.  If  this  supposition 
be  called  purely  hypothetical,  the  thoughtful  reader  has  a  perfect 
right  to  form  his  opinion  from  more  solid  data,  while  I  claim 
the  same  to  express  mine  ;  not  that  I  deem  myself  infallible 
— for,  says  the  German  proverb,  '  Truth  is  only  attained  after 
repeated  tumbles  on  the  rocks  of  error.'  "  * 

Baron  Friedrichsthal,  app.  to  Cogolludo,  book  iv.     Campeche,  1842. 


412  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

American  monuments,  considered  artistically,  are  but  the 
rude  manifestations  of  a  semi-barbarous  race,  which  it  were 
idle  to  endow  with  intrinsic  value,  seeing  that  their  original 
plans  are  wanting  both  in  accuracy  and  symmetry,  while  their 
materials  are  ill-cut,  their  joints  far  apart  even  in  bas-reliefs, 
where  the  intervening  spaces  are  filled  up  with  cement.  Con- 
sequently these  buildings  cannot  compare  with  Indian,  Egyptian 
or  Assyrian  monuments  ;  for  here  we  have  a  nation  who  in 
the  whole  course  of  their  political  life,  extending  over  several 
centuries,  produced  but  one  note,  emitted  but  one  sound  ; 
because  they  had  neither  traditions  nor  a  higher  civilisation 
around  them  to  draw  from.  And,  although  here  and  there 
some  happier  mood  is  seen,  whether  in  sculpture  or  cement 
modelling,  their  occurrence  is  too  rare  ever  to  have  become 
general.  The  chief  merit  of  these  buildings  lies  in  their 
interest  for  the  archaeologist  and  the  intelligent,  who  are 
necessarily  few  ;  and  this  explains  the  silence  of  the  conquerors 
respecting  them.  How  well  I  remember  my  servant's  strictures 
on  hearing  my  exclamation  of  delightful  surprise  as  I  stood 
the  first  time  before  the  Governor's  Palace:  "Well,  I  can't, 
for  my  part,  see  anything  so  wonderful  in  it ;  there  isn't  a 
French  bricklayer  who  couldn't  do  quite  as  well  and  better." 
Fran9ois,  on  his  return  home,  would  no  more  have  dreamt 
of  recounting  of  the  wonderful  buildings  he  had  seen  in  the 
New  W^orld,  than  did  the  Spaniards  three  hundred  years  before. 

It  is  with  something  of  the  feeling  which  is  experienced  at 
parting  from  a  long-cherished  friend  that  we  take  leave  of 
the  curious,  barbarous,  yet  withal  charming  ruins,  thrice  visited 
with  delight  ever  fresh,  with  interest  all  the  more  vivid  that 
I  have  succeeded  in  lifting  the  deep  shroud  which  covered 
them,  and  if  on  that  account  they  are  no  longer  surrounded 
with  mysterious  awe,  they  will  not  be  less  interesting. 


UXMAL. 


413 


We  set  out,  directing  our  march  through  Muna,  which  has 
a  fine  well,  seemingly  of  Indian  construction.  A  native  feast  is 
being  held,  and  here,  as  throughout  the  State,  it  means  a  grand 
opportunity  for  getting  drunk.  We  push  on,  sleep  at  a  broken- 
down  hovel  called  Abala,  and  the  next  day  we  are  once 
more  comfortably  setded  amonor  our  household  o-ods 


INSCRIPTION   OF   THE   GOVERNOR'S   PALACE,  UXMAL. 


CHAPTER   XXI. 

CAMPECHE    AND    TENOSIQU^. 

From  Progreso  to  Campeche — Incidents  on  Board — Carmen — Old  Acquaintances — 
Indian  Guns — Frontera — The  Grijalva — Tabasco  Pottery — Waiting — Carnival 
at  Frontera — Julian's  Success  —  Departure — Jonuta —  Monte-Cristo  —  Diffi- 
culties at  the  Custom  House — Cabecera — Tenosique — Reminiscences — 
Monteros — The  Lacandones — Our  Mules  Come — The  Usumacinta — Sea 
Fish— Setting  out  for  the  Ruins — Route — Forest  Camping — Second  Day — 
Traces  of  Monuments — A  Mule  and  a  Horse  Lost — Cortez — Arroyo  Yalchilan 
— Provisions  left  Behind — Crossing  the  Cordillera — An  Old  Montero — Traces 
of  Lacandones — Yalchilan  Pass. 

Here  we  take  our  passage  for  Campeche  on  the  Asturia,  a 
diminutive,  small  steamer,  having  but  four  Liliputian  berths ; 
luckily  enough  we  are  the  only  passengers  ;  had  it  been  otherwise, 
we  must  have  kept  on  deck  day  and  night.  The  sea  is  like 
an  immense  sheet  of  glass,  the  heavens  radiant  with  stars  ;  our 
boat  draws  very  little  water,  so  that  we  skirt  close  to  the  shore, 
and  are  able  to  follow  the  graceful  panorama  which  unfolds  before 
us ;  and  in  the  morning  early  we  cast  anchor  four  miles  off 
Campeche  because  of  the  high  surf,  but  the  outline  of  which  is 
plainly  visible. 

Campeche  was  built  on  the  site  of  an  Indian  city,  and 
visited  by  Antonio  Cordova  in  his  first  ill-fated  expedition  (15 17). 
"The   natives,"   says   Diaz,    "were  friendly,  and   took  us  to  ex- 


Cami'eciik  and  Tknosiquk.  417 

tensive  buildings  which  had  in  them  idols  and  sanctuaries.  These 
edifices  were  built  of  lime  and  sand.  On  the  walls  were  enormous 
serpents,  and  near  them  paintings  representing  their  idols,  round 
a  kind  of  altar  stained  with  drops  of  blood  still  quite  fresh.  On 
one  side  of  the  idols  were  painted  human  figures  niassed  in  the 
shape  of  a  cross.  We  were  amazed  at  the  sight  of  things  so 
strange,  as  we  watched  numbers  of  natives,  nien  and  women, 
come  in  to  get  a  sight  of  us  with  smiling,  unconcerned  counte- 
nances."* But  the  scene  soon  changes;  osier  braziers,  for 
burning  copal,  are  brought,  and  the  priests  tell  the  Spaniards 
to  leave  the  shore  immediately  under  penalty  of  death.  The 
Spaniards    sailed    away,    and    did    not    settle    at    Campeche    until 

1541- 

These  ancient  mounds,  these  temples,  with  their  ceremonial 
and  gory  priests,  carry  us  back  to  Mexico  ;  but  it  would  be 
vain  to  look  for  traces  of  such  buildino^s  alono-  the  coast,  or  in 
the  proximity  of  Spanish  settlements.  In  process  of  time 
Campeche  became  the  most  flourishing  city  of  the  peninsula, 
and  was  plundered  several  times  by  French  and  English  priva- 
teers. To  stop  these  frequent  devastations,  a  strong  wall  was 
built  around  to  enable  its  inhabitants  to  rest  in  peace.  But 
the  wall,  built  for  safety,  seems  now  to  oppress  the  town, 
which  has  outgrown  it,  and  is  spreading  outside,  where  w^ealthy 
merchants  have  "  quintas,"  in  whose  gardens  the  rich  tropical 
flora  displays  its  magnificence,  casting  a  multicoloured  belt  about 
the  town. 

Campeche,  with  its  tortuous  suburbs,  its  drawbridges,  its 
unsymmetrical  high  buildings,  is  the  least  Eastern-looking  place 
in  Mexico,  and  boasts  no  monuments  worthy  of  mention.  Our 
steamer  stopped  some  hours  here,   giving  me  the  opportunity  to 

*  Bernal  Diaz,  tome  i.  chap.  iii. 


41 8  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

pay  a  long-promised  visit  to  Don  F.  Ferrer,  a  charming 
correspondent,  under  whose  hospitable  roof  I  spent  one  of  the 
pleasantest  days  I  can  remember,  amidst  music  and  pleasant 
talk.  We  returned  to  our  steamer  en  roitte  for  Carmen  in  the 
afternoon,  and  I  looked  forward  to  having  the  whole  boat  to 
myself,  when  a  large  canoe  full  of  people  rowed  up  alongside  just 
as  we  were  settling  down  comfortably.  "Oh  dear!"  I  thought, 
"three  days'  voyage  with  a  surplus  of  eighteen  people,  not  counting 
half-a-dozen  curs  and  parrots!  If  the  7torle  gets  up,  what  is 
to  become  of  us  ? "  They  were  strolling  actors  who  had  long 
secured  all  the  available  accommodation,  so  that  we  were  given 
the  choice  of  the  deck,  and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  I  obtained 
for  Lucian,  who  was  prostrated  with  a  severe  attack  of  fever, 
a  wee  corner  below.  Presently  his  moans  attracted  the  attention 
of  the  women.  "What  is  the  matter  with  the  gentleman, 
is  it  yellow  fever  .-^ "  they  inquired.  "I  shouldn't  wonder," 
was  my  reply ;  whereupon  the  whole  band  made  off  and  left 
us  in  undisturbed  possession  of  our  berths,  where  we  slept 
the  sleep  of  the  just,  and  arrived  at  Carmen  as  fresh  as  larks. 
This  place  is  the  great  depot  for  woods  known  as  Campeche, 
and  drives  a  brisk  trade. 

I  found  my  old  friend  Don  Benito,  who  owns  an  island 
called  Chinal  on  the  Usumacinta,  having  mounds,  tombs,  or 
maybe  basements  of  temples.  Some  excavations  were  made 
in  them,  when  terra-cotta  guns,  4  feet  1 1  inches  long,  with 
bullets  likewise  of  terra-cotta,  were  brought  to  light.  I  was 
presented  with  some  bullets,  which  are  now  in  the  Trocadero. 
The  only  plausible  explanation  I  can  give  for  the  presence 
of  these  guns  in  an  Indian  mound,  is  that  after  the  great 
battle  of  Centla  in  Tabasco,  in  which  Cortez'  artillery  wrought 
so  much  destruction,  the  natives  tried  to  copy  this  new  war- 
engine,   but    being  unacquainted    either    with    iron    or  the    effect 


CaMPECIIE    and    TENOSIQUlt. 


419 


of  powder,  they  reproduced  them  in  the  material  most  famihar 
to  them,  fondly  imagining  that  the  result  would  be  the  same,  and 
buried  them  later  with  their  chief. 

The  journey  from  Carmen  to  Frontera  takes  twelve  hours, 
where  we  land  the  very  day  twelve  months  after  our  first  visit, 
and  put  up  again  at  the  detestable  fonda.      We   learn   that   small- 


HOTEL   GRIJALVA   AT   FRONTERA. 


pox  and  yellow-fever  have  decimated  and  are  decimating  the 
town,  but  nothing  daunted,  for  these  epidemics  seem  to  spare 
foreigners,  I  fill  up  the  time  I  must  wait  here  until  a  steamer 
calls,  by  collecting  ancient  pottery.  Indian  idols  are  of  frequent 
occurrence  in  Central  America,  but  up  to  the  present  time  no  one 
has  cared  to  collect  them,  and  the  Mexican  Museum  does  not 
possess  a  single  specimen.  Among  those  I  picked  up  are  various 
figures    resembling   more   or  less    those    of  the  table-land,    while 

2    E    2 


420  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


their  differences  of  style  connect  them  with  the  idols  at  Palenque. 
Our  drawing  shows  the  two  best  preserved,  and  although  very 
rude  in  make,  they  are  not  devoid  of  interest.  The  figure  to  the 
left  is  a  Quetzalcoatl,  easily  recognised  from  the  serpent  sur- 
rounding his  head,  and  is  the  facsimile  of  a  stone  idol  at  Capan  ; 
while  the  larger  to  the  right  may  have  been  meant  for  a  priest 
or  a   "  tecuhtli  "   knip-ht. 

We  are  in  full  carnival,  the  entire  population  parading  the 
streets  in  ludicrous  travesties,  making  merry  with  music,  jokes, 
and  quips.  The  Seiioritas  come  to  our  fonda  to  get  subscribers 
for  the  dance  ;  we  give  our  names  and  follow  the  stream.  The 
ball  is  kept  up  with  much  vigour,  and  Julian  is  soon  in  great 
requisition  by  all  the  pretty  Sefioritas,  to  the  annoyance  and 
mortification  of  Lucian,  who  ends,  however,  by  declaring  that  he 
can  well  forgive  his  success,  for  he  is  an  obliging  fellow  and  such 
a  hand  at  polishing  his  boots.  These  words  are  drowned  in  the 
tumult  and  cries  of  the  dancers  pressing  round  a  man  who  has 
just  been  shot  by  his  less  favoured  rival.  The  would-be 
murderer  is  taken  to  the  police  station,  while  his  victim  is  con- 
veyed home  by  his  friends  and  the  ball  goes  on  more  briskly 
than  ever. 

At  last  a  steamer  bound  for  the  Usumacinta  is  in  sight.  We 
get  on  board  with  alacrity,  and  are  soon  at  Jonuta  ;  but  here 
the  captain,  on  seeing  the  low  ebb  of  the  river,  declares  that  his 
ship  cannot  go  any  further.  After  much  parley  he  is  persuaded 
to  go  on,  but  we  are  starded  by  a  tremendous  bump  in  the  middle 
of  the  night,  and  find  that  we  are  stranded.  We  wait  for  the  day, 
when,  with  a  great  deal  of  difficulty,  we  succeed  in  getting  her 
off,  and  push  on  to  Monte-Cristo,  where  the  captain  nolens  volens 
lands  us,  protesting  that  his  ship  cannot  go  another  yard.  But 
our  troubles  do  not  end  here.  We  are  requested  to  show  our 
passes,  and  as  Monte-Cristo  is  not  mentioned,  we  are  in  danger 


Cami'eciie  and  Tenosiquk. 


421 


of  having  the  whole  of  our  property  confiscated.  Fortunately 
I  had  a  letter  from  the  Home  Minister,  recommending  me  to  all 
the  authorities  of  the  Republic.  I  took  it  to  the  Mayor,  who  gave 
me  full  leave  to  continue  my  journey  unmolested. 


TERRA-COTTA   IDOLS   OF   TABASCO. 


And  now  we  turn  our  thoughts  how  to  get  to  Tenosique  ; 
we  find  that  it  takes  four  or  five  days  by  water,  and  some 
twenty-four  hours  by  land.  W^e  procure  a  canoa,  in  which 
we  deposit  our  baggage,  under  the  management  of  our  faithful 
Julian,    who    will    follow    as    quickly    as    possible,    while     Lucian 


422  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

and  I,  with  a  guide,  take  the  road  through  the  woods.  We 
are  soon  left  behind,  and  do  not  see  our  guide  again  until 
six  hours  later,  when  we  find  him  reposing  by  the  side  of 
a  running  stream. 

"  Where  is  our  lunch  ?  "    I   roared  out. 

"What  lunch?" 

"Why,  the  parcel  we  put  up  before  we  started." 

"  Oh  !   I  didn't  know  what  it  was,  and   I  left  it  behind." 

Expostulations  were  more  than  vain,  and  we  had  to  satisfy 
the  cravinofs  of  hunger  with  a  draught  of  rum  and  water ! 

We  press  on  as  best  we  may,  and  some  hours  later  we 
reach  a  rancho  where  fresh  eggs,  poultry,  and  a  beverage 
made  of  Indian  corn,  somewhat  restore  our  jaded  frames. 
Here  we  cross  the  river  on  to  the  right  side,  and  arrive  at 
Cabecera  early  in  the  evening,  and  put  up  at  two  old  dames', 
who  regale  us  with  chicken  broth  and  fried  fish,  which,  seasoned 
by  hunger,  we  find  delicious.  The  next  day  early  we  are 
at  Tenosique,  three  miles  distant,  where  we  take  up  our 
quarters  in  a  vacant  hut,  but,  do  what  we  will  in  the  way 
of  scraping  and  sweeping,  we  cannot  get  rid  of  mosquitoes, 
garrapatas,  and  other  insects,  which  eat  us  alive.  As  to 
the  food,  an  old  man  does  his  best,  and  I  still  remember 
that  to  give  us  some  salad  he  had  recourse  to  turnip-leaves  ; 
these  naturally  enough  were  hard  to  the  bite,  and  hardly 
improved  with  bitter  orange  juice  by  way  of  vinegar.  But 
the  |learth  of  any  green  food  made  us  gulp  it  down  with  a 
will  to  like  it,   and  we  almost  succeeded. 

This  poor  hamlet  dates  back  to  1535,  when  a  Spaniard, 
Don  Gil  by  name,  settled  here.  It  seems  to  have  kept  its 
native  character  to  the  present  day ;  for  Don  Saturnino  tells 
me,  that  thirty  years  ago  it  had  still  a  cacique,  "  tropiles  "  (subs), 
and  a  picote.       Of  late  it  has    accjuired    some    importance,  from 


Campeciie  and  Tenosiquii. 


423 


its    being  the    great    entrepot  of   ebony  wood,   sought    for  in  the 
remotest  parts  of  the  State. 

We    hear    the    most    conflicting    reports    with    regard    to  the 

ruins     I     wish     to    explore,    lying    some    fifty    miles    distant  on 

the     other     side     of     the     Sierra,     on     the     left     bank     of  the 

Usumacinta.       They    were    visited    twelve    years    ago    by  the 
mayor  of  this  place,   *'  ivheii   they  luere   still  held  in  high  esteem 


A   BIT   OF   TEN0S1QU£. 


by  the  Lacandones.  A  guard  was  placed  over  the  temples 
and  on  stated  days  religious  ceremonies  were  performed,  but 
since  the  fall  of  a  favourite    idol,  whose    head  lies    now    amono" 

o 

the  rubbish,  the  building  has  been  abandoned."  Cheered  bv 
this  piece  of  good  news,  I  direct  all  my  energies  to  procure 
men,  mules,  and  horses ;  the  former  we  obtain  with  the 
promise  of  double  pay,  as  for  the  latter  we  have  to  wait 
for  their  return  from  Peten.  But  when  they  arrive  at  last 
and    I    see    their    wretched    condition,    and    the   ghastly    wounds 


424  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

which  cover  them,  I  feel  great  misgivings  as  to  their  per- 
forming the  arduous  journey  which  is  in  store  for  them. 
Their  owner  assures  me  that  with  a  week's  rest  the  animals 
will  be  all  right.  I  must  needs  accept  his  word  for  it,  hoping 
the   best,   for  there  is  nothing  else  to  be  done. 

To  reach  the  ruins,  a  space  of  some  five  leagues  of  forest 
will  have  to  be  cleared  on  the  right  side  of  the  river,  which  will 
take  us  opposite  the  ruins,  but  a  canoe  must  likewise  be  made 
to  ferry  us  across.  For  this  purpose  I  despatch  some  men  in 
advance,  while  we  fill  up  the  weary  time  of  waiting  by  trying 
to  catch  some  fish.  Curiously  enough,  a  number  of  sea-fish  is 
found  here  in  the  Usumacinta,  100  miles  from  its  mouth  ;  and 
when  swollen  by  rain  it  brings  from  distant  Guatemala  large 
quantities  of  lobsters,  together  with  pumice  stones. 

We  set  out  on  the  15th  of  March,  1882,  and  are  soon  in  a 
tangle  of  wood  and  beset  with  obstacles  of  every  kind  ;  while 
the  mules  get  unloaded,  go  astr^iy,  tarry  in  green  pastures,  and 
are  altogether  very  troublesome. 

We  have  left  behind  us  the  low  marshy  level,  and  are  near- 
Ino-  the  Cordillera,  bearing:  to  the  south-east  on  the  Peten  road. 
The  forest  seems  absolutely  interminable  with  magnificent  cedar 
and  palm-trees,  over  100  feet  high,  the  trunks  of  which  almost 
disappear  under  flowering  lianas,  while  the  broad-leaved  Palmyra 
palms  commingle  with  Brazil  wood,  and  form  boundless  domes  of 
verdure.  It  would  be  pleasant  enough  could  one  get  used  to 
being  eaten  up  by  mosquitoes  and  garrapatas.  The  stations 
where  we  encamp,  although  not  possessed  even  of  a  hut,  are 
carefully  marked  in  the  maps  for  the  benefit  of  muleteers  ; 
they  are  always  on  rising  ground,  in  the  vicinity  of  water  and 
ramon  for  the  animals,  their  staple  food  on  the  march.  Our 
day's  journey  has  told  already  on  them  ;  the  men  disperse  to 
cut  down  ramon.      Julian  is  pulling  up  our  camp-beds,  while  cook 


Campeciie  and  Ti:nosiqui^.  425 

is  busy  with  our  supper,  which  usually  consists  of  a  kind  of 
Scotch  broth,  made  of  dried  meat,  rice,  and  black  beans,  a 
round  of  biscuit,  and  a  cup  of  coffee,  except  on  days  when  our 
larder  has  been  replenished  on  the  way  by  a  wild  duck,  a  peccari, 
and  sometimes  a  monkey  ! 

In  the  evening  the  men,  grouped  round  the  fire,  indulge  in 
a  social  weed,  while  recounting  adventures  more  or  less  authentic, 
then  we  all  retire  behind  our  mosquito  curtains  and  rest  our 
weary  limbs  on  soft  green  leaves.  Our  slumbers  are  often 
interrupted  by  the  roar  of  the  wild  beast,  the  plaintive  cries 
of  nocturnal  birds,  and  howling  monkeys.  We  rise  before  day- 
break, and  what  with  breakfast,  saddling  and  loading  our  animals, 
the  sun  is  high  on  the  horizon  before  we  can  continue  our 
journey.  No  incident  breaks  the  wearisome  monotony  of  our 
progress,  but  towards  noon  I  notice  to  our  right  traces  of 
buildings,  vast  esplanades,  the  stone  edges  of  which  are  still 
intact,  whilst  the  guide  says  that  towards  the  valley  of  S.  Pedro, 
to  our  left,  are  entire  monuments  still  standing — the  town  of 
Izancanac,  perhaps.  Indeed,  the  whole  country  is  covered  with 
ruins,  to  study  which  a  lifetime  were  not  too  long. 

The  region  is  full  of  the  memory  of  the  conqueror.  He  must 
have  travelled  this  very  road  on  his  march  to  Honduras.  It 
was  in  these  woods  that,  under  pretext  of  a  conspiracy,  he  caused 
Guatemozin  to  be  executed.  The  young  Aztec  prince  displayed 
the  intrepid  spirit  of  his  better  days  ;  he  reproached  Cortez  for 
his  want  of  faith,  protesting  the  while  his  innocence.  A  tardy 
monument  has  just  been  raised  to  the  upholder  of  Indian 
independence  in  that  Tenochtitlan  which  he  defended  as  long 
as  there  was  stone  upon  stone,  whilst  not  even  a  bust  marks 
the  presence  of  his  murderer. 

The  region  we  now  traverse,  covered  with  immense  forests, 
was    cultivated    and   inhabited   before   the  Conquest ;    great  cities 


426  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

rose  in  this  trackless  labyrinth,  the  vestiges  of  which  have  been 
noticed  by  us,  whilst  frequent  mention  of  them  is  found  in  various 
authors.  On  this  route  Cortez  saw  "a  great  city,"  with  strong 
buildings  of  stone  on  the  summits  of  mounds,  just  as  at  the  present 
day.  This  city,  known  as  "  Bitza,"  had  been  abandoned  on  the 
approach  of  the  Spaniards,  but  provisions  of  all  kinds  were  left. 
When  its  inhabitants  returned,  Cortez  asked  why  they  had  fled. 

*'  Because  we  were  afraid." 

"  What  is  the  meaning  of  all  these  provisions  ?  Why  are 
all  the  crops  gathered  in  ? " 

"  Because  if  the  Lacandones,  with  whom  we  are  at  feud, 
had  come  and  conquered  us,  we  would  have  done  away  with 
everything  to  starve  them  out.  But  on  the  contrary  had  we 
prevailed,  we  would  have  given  hot  pursuit  and  lived  at  their 
expense."  '" 

Next  Cortez  passed  a  town,  the  environs  of  which  were 
peopled  with  deer  so  tame,  that  the  Spaniards  could  catch  them 
by  riding  after  them.t  The  couatry  must,  therefore,  have  been 
open  to  allow  of  the  Spanish  cavaliers  giving  chase. 

Cogolludo  calls  the  region  between  Yucatan,  Chiapas,  and 
Guatemala,  Prospero,  and  says:  "The  natives  of  Prospero  have 
their  ears  and  nostrils  bored ;  they  wear  in  the  latter  a  vanilla  pod 
or  a  carved  piece  of  wood  ;  their  hair,  of  which  they  are  vain,  is 
worn  long  and  adorned  with  feathers  ;  they  also  practise  tattooing. 
They  told  father  Simon  that  the  country  round  was  more  densely 
populated  than  Yucatan,  that  they  went  by  the  name  of  Locejzes, 
which  means  apart,  and  spoke  the  Maya  language  ;  that  the  other 
tribes  were  the  Mopanes,  Lacandones,  Ahabes,  Cihaches,  China- 
mitas,   etc.  ;   that   the    town   of   Locen   numbered    eight   hundred 

*  Villa  Gulicric  Soto  Mayor,  '•  Hist,  of  the  Conquest  of  Itza  and  the  Lacan- 
dones," chap.  V.  p.  30. 
t  Ibid.  chap.  vi.  p.  43. 


Campeciie  and  Tenosiqui';.  427 

houses  ;  that  the  inhabitants  were  known  for  their  clear  com- 
plexion, their  good  looks  ;  that  they  wore  gold  collars  round 
their  necks  ;  and,  finally,  that  many  ancient  buildings  with  stone 
idols  in  them,  were  found  in  the  Sierra."* 

Meanwhile  our  journey  becomes  more  and  more  harassing  ; 
we  have  been  obliged  to  leave  one  of  the  horses  and  a  mule  to 
the  jaguars,  and  not  to  overload  the  others,  Lucian  and  I  ride 
in  turn  the  only  remaining  horse.  We  cross  the  Arroyo 
Yalchilan  t  on  the  Guatemala  border,  not  far  from  Locen,  and 
leaving  the  Peten  road,  we  steer  to  the  south-east-south,  on  the 
path  cleared  by  our  men,  and  encamp  on  the  bank  of  the  running 
stream  in  which  we  lave  our  dust-travelled  limbs. 

The  next  day  we  climb  the  range  of  hills  which  divide  us  from 
the  upper  Usumacinta,  and  which  are  almost  impassable  for  loaded 
animals.  The  sharp  stones  destroy  the  leather  of  our  boots,  and 
cut  the  mules'  feet  to  pieces,  while  we  are  in  danger  of  being  lost 
down  the  ravines  and  precipices.  The  better  to  ease  the  mules' 
backs,  we  leave  here  such  provisions  as  we  shall  not  require,  for 
game  will  not  be  wanting  on  our  way,  and  everything  will  be 
safe  until  we  return.  A  scaffolding  supported  on  poles  fixed  to 
the  ground  is  made,  on  which  wine,  biscuit,  salt  meat,  and  beans 
are  deposited. 

Here  we  encamp  for  the  night  —  the  sixth  since  we  lelt 
Tenosique — and  the  next  day  we  begin  the  ascent  of  Mirador 
and  Aguila;  the  latter,  although  not  more  than  1,300  to  1,400  feet 
in  height,  is  exceedingly  steep  and  arduous.  We  meet  an  old 
montero,  Don  P.  Mora,  who  left  his  native  village  three  months 
since,  and  is  living  in  the  Sierra  with  two  Indians,  whose 
business    is     to     mark    mahogany    trees    ready    for    the    market. 


*  CogoUudo,  tome  i.  lib.  xii.  cap.  viii. 
t  See  note  at  end. 


428 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


Don  Pepe  has  built  himself  a  hut  on  the  Chotal  river;  he 
shoots  whatever  comes  within  the  range  of  his  muzzle,  for 
the  support  of  himself  and  his  companions.  The  poor  old 
fellow  Is  reduced  to  a  deplorable  state  by  marsh  fever;  he 
volunteers  some  valuable  hints,  which  I  repay  with  a  glass 
of  wine  and  a  few  cigars. 


THE   USUMACINTA   AT   TASO   YALCIIILAN. 


Some  hours  more  and  we  reach  the  broad  level,  and  set 
up  our  tents  on  the  Chotal,  a  tributary  of  the  Usumacinta. 
The  forest  round  Is  teeming  with  life ;  parrots  and  aras  fill 
the  air  with  their  shrill  cries,  yellow-crested  hoccos  *  move 
silently  among  the  higher  branches,  while  howling  monkeys 
peer    in(|uisitively    at    us,   and    herds    of   wild    boars    rush   madly 


*  The  Hocco,  or  Powisc  {Crox  aleclor),  is  a  bird  nearly  the  size  of  a  turkey,  and 
much  prized  for  its  delicate  flesh. — Transl. 


Campeciie  and  Tenosique. 


429 


past  us.  We  arc  in  the  country  of  the  Lacandoncs ;  here 
and  there  traces  of  cultivation  are  still  visible,  and  huts  which 
have  been  abandoned  on  the  approach  of  timber  merchants, 
plainly  show  that  they  were  inhabited  not  long  ago.  We 
raise  our  "  camp,"  en  route  for  the  Yalchilan  Pass,  and  arrive 
in  the  evening:  on  the  riofht  bank  of  the  Usuniacinta. 


DON    VtVt    MORA. 


ENCAMPMEXT   AT   PASO   YALCHILAN. 


CHAPTER    XXII. 


LORILLARD    TOWN. 


Paso  Yalchilan — Another  Mule  Lost — An  Anxious  Night^— A  Wild  Boar — En- 
campment— Upper  Usumacinta — No  Canoes — A  Difficulty — Deliverance — 
Surprise — A  Mysterious  Traveller — A  Canoe — Fever — Down  Stream — A 
Votive  Pillar — Ruins — I  Meet  with  a  Stranger — General  View  of  Lorillard  — 
A  Reminiscence — Stephens'  "Phantom  City  " — Extent  of  the  Ruins  Unknown 
— Temple — Idol — Fortress — Our  Dwelling  Palace — Great  Pyramid — Second 
Temple— Stone  Lintels  and  Two  Kinds  of  Inscriptions — Our  Return — 
Lacandones. 


Paso  Yalchilan  is  a  geographical  point,  meaning  any  given 
place  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Usumacinta,  dividing  Mexico 
from  Guatemala.  We  reached  it  so  late  that  we  had  barely 
time  to  unload  our  animals  and  get  them  some  fodder  before 
the  night  set  in.  But  now  I  discovered  that  the  mule  carrying 
the   material   for   our    squeezes    had    lagged    behind ;    but    it  was 


LoRiLLARi)  Town.  431 


too  dark,  the  men  declared,  to  Gfo  hiintino-  for  him  in  the  insecure 
forest,  next  morning  would  be  time  enough.  In  the  night  we 
were  rather  'startled  by  cries  of  "  Al  tigre  !  al  tigre  !  "  (the  tiger). 
It  turned  out  to  be  only  a  jaguar,  but  it  served  to  remind  us  to 
keep  a  fire  burning.  The  next  day  some  of  the  men  set  to 
work  at  our  cabins,  whilst  others  went  in  quest  of  the  wn^tched 
mule,  which  they  found  almost  dead  with  fatigue  and  want  of 
food.  They  also  brought  to  the  general  larder  a  nice  young 
boar,  which  was  received  with  joyful  shouts,  immediately  cut 
up,  roasted,  and  eaten  at  our  mid-day  meal  down  to  the  last 
morsel. 

Our  shots  brought  the  canoeros  I  had  sent  in  advance  to 
construct  a  canoe.  My  inquiries  as  to  the  work  done  were  met 
with  the  unsatisfactory  answer  that  nothing  was  finished  ;  they 
had  been  unlucky  in  the  choice  of  timber,  etc.  I  immediately 
set  out  to  see  how  it  was,  and  to  my  great  annoyance  I  found 
that  hardly  any  progress  had  been  made.  In  fact,  the  men 
had  taken  it  mighty  easy,  had  lived  like  lords  on  the  supplies 
I  had  given  them,  varying  their  fare  with  fish  from  the  river 
and  game  from  the  forest ;  causing  me  a  delay  which  might 
ruin  my  expedition,  for  our  supplies  would  not  last  out  if  this 
was  the  way  they  went  to  work.  I  was  returning  with  head 
downcast,  looking  at  the  broad  river,  here  over  500  feet 
across,  pondering  on  the  distance  which  divided  me  from  the 
goal  of  my  expedition,  when  I  spied  ahead  of  us  a  boat  manned 
by  a  Lacandon,  who  on  perceiving  us  veered  quickly  round. 
Fortunately  one  of  our  men  spoke  Maya  ;  he  hailed  the  man, 
promising  him  a  great  reward  if  he  would  steer  towards  us.  He 
came  to  our  encampment,  and  when  I  heard  that  he  was  a  chief, 
I  showed  him  the  presents  I  had  brought,  telling  him  they  would 
be  his  and  any  of  his  people's  he  should  bring  to  me.  We  learnt 
that    he    had  two    more   canoes    he   was   willing   to  let    us    have 


432  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


for  a  consideration,  and  I  congratulated  myself  on  being  able  to 
attain  my  end  so  easily. 

We  were  now  waiting  with  some  impatience  for  the  cayucoes, 
when  a  large  canoe  manned  by  three  white  men  loomed  in  the 
distance ;  a  horrible  suspicion  flashed  across  my  mind,  that  they 
were  men  belonging  to  another  expedition,  who  had  forestalled 
me.  The  canoe  came  near,  and  I  learnt  that  they  had  been  on 
a  foray  expedition  among  the  Lacandones,  but  had  been  unable 
to  obtain  anything  except  a  few  tomatoes,  and  were  now  returning 
to  the  ruins  to  join  their  master,  Don  Alvaredo,  and  that  their 
provisions  were  running  very  short. 

"  Have  you  another  canoe?"  I  inquired. 

"  Yes,  much  larger  than  this." 

"  Look  here,  my  good  fellows,  take  my  card  to  your  master 
with  my  compliments,  together  with  half  a  wild  pig,  salt  meat, 
rice,  biscuits,  and  in  return  ask  him  to  lend  me  his  large 
canoe,  which  these  men  I  send  with  you  will  bring." 

The  strangers  rowed  away,  and  I  began  to  prepare  for  the 
next  day's  expedition,  in  which  Lucian  and  six  men  would 
accompany  me,  leaving  the  rest  behind  to  take  care  of  our 
heavy  luggage  under  the  superintendence  of  Julian.  But  in  the 
morning  early  I  had  a  severe  attack  of  malaria,  which  threatened 
at  one  time  to  delay  our  journey.  A  few  hours'  rest,  however, 
and  a  good  dose  of  quinine,  restored  me  sufficiently  to  allow  of 
my  setting  out  for  the  long-sought,  long  wished- for  ruins,  which 
we  reached  in  three  hours,  landing  near  an  enormous  pile  of 
stones — a  kind  of  votive  pillar — rising  on  the  left  bank  of  the 
river,  which  has  withstood  the  buffeting  of  the  waters  for  several 
centuries.  This  stone  mound  was  described  to  me  at  Tenosiqu^, 
as  having  formed  part  of  an  old  bridge  which  spanned  the  river 
at  this  point.  But  what  we  know  of  the  natives'  method  of 
building    makes  this  supposition   impossible,    for  the  river  is  too 


LACANDON   CHIEF   AND   LACAiNDON   TYPEii. 


2     F 


LoRiLLARD  Town. 


435 


broad,  and  on  the  other  hand,  had  a  bridge  formerly  stood  here, 
remains  would  be  found  either  on  the  opposite  side  or  in  the 
bed  of  the  river.  There  is  very  little  doubt  that  for  all  the 
purposes  of  daily  life,  the  inhabitants  of  this  city  used  "  canoas  " 
just  as  they  do  now. 


VOTIVE   PILE  OF   LORII.LARU. 


We  had  made  but  a  short  way  among  the  ruins  lying  in  every 
direction,  when  we  were  met  by  Don  Alvaredo,  whose  fair  looks 
and  elastic  step  showed  him  to  be  an  Englishman.  We  shook 
hands  ;  he  knew  my  name,  he  told  me  his  :  Alfred  Maudslay, 
Esq.,  from  London ;  and  as  my  looks  betrayed  the  inward 
annoyance   I   felt  : 


436  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


"It's  all  right,"  he  said;  "there  is  no  reason  why  you 
should  look  so  distressed.  My  having  had  the  start  of  you  was 
a  mere  chance,  as  it  would  have  been  mere  chance  had  it  been 
the  other  way.  You  need  have  no  fear  on  my  account,  for  I 
am  only  an  amateur,  travelling  for  pleasure.  With  you  the  case 
of  course  is  different.  But  I  do  not  intend  to  publish  anything. 
Come,  I  have  had  a  place  got  ready  ;  and  as  for  the  ruins  I 
make  them  over  to  you.  You  can  name  the  town,  claim  to 
have  discovered  it,  in  fact  do  what  you  please.  I  shall  not 
interfere  with  you  in  any  way,  and  you  may  even  dispense 
with  mentioning  my  name  if  you  so  please." 

I  was  deeply  touched  with  his  kind  manner,  and  I  am  only 
too  charmed  to  share  with  him  the  glory  of  having  explored 
this  city.  We  lived  and  worked  together  like  two  brothers,  and 
we  parted  the  best  friends  in  the  world. 

This  town,  which  I  shall  call  "  Lorillard,"  in  honour  of  the 
munificent  man  who  partly  defrays  the  cost  of  the  expedition, 
rises  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Usumacinta  in  the  17th  degree  lat. 
(see  Map),  in  a  region  hitherto  unclassified,  between  Guatemala, 
Chiapas,  and  Tabasco.  (We  are  able  to  determine  approxi- 
mately its  position  from  the  bearings  we  took  along  our 
route.) 

It  was  discovered  twelve  years  ago  by  Suarez  of  Tcnosique, 
and  has  been  visited  at  different  times  by  monteros  and  by 
Balay  de  Palisada.  It  has  been  called  "  Phantom  city,"  from 
a  passage  in  Stephens'  Journal,*  in  which  he  reproduces  a  con- 
versation with  the  merry  "  Cura  "  of  Santa  Cruz  del  Quiche^,  who 
told  of  "a  great  Indian  city  four  days'  journey  from  Santa 
Cruz,  on  the  road  to  Mexico,  as  being  densely  populated,  and 
in  the  same  condition  as  other  places  of  Central   America.       He 


Stephens,  second  vol.  of  "Central  America  and  Yucatan." 


L()Kir,LAKi)  Town 


437 


I  J'INOSIOUH 


ROUTE        THROUGH       MEXICO 

FROM  TENOSIQUEtotheRUINSofLORILLARD 

tiy  Dosii-c  Cli.'irnay 
1S82 


'r  Lit]iii.sca 


Scale  nfi:n;'lish  Miles 


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^  Dry  W'atci  cotine 


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J=^fe  '-'•■X^Scao 


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V    h ^^'■''H''-''>J-os Callejoncs 

'/oSdn  X'cna)icio 


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Nortli 

f  / 


South 


MAP   TAKEN    FROM    THE   GEOGRAPHICAL   SOCIETY. 

had  heard  of  it  at  Chayul  many  years  before,  where  he  had 
ascended  the  Sierra,  whence  the  vast  panorama  of  Yucatan  and 
Tabasco    to   the   sea   could  easily  be  distinguished,   and   that   he 


43^  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

had  seen  In  the  far  distance  a  city  occupying  an  immense  space, 
its  white  towers  shininof  in  the  sun," 

I  do  not  think  that  this  mysterious  city,  if  ever  it  was  in 
existence,  is  Lorillard,  for  its  bearings  do  not  agree  with  those 
of  the  American  traveller  ;  but  there  are  many  others  in  the 
forests,  and  monteros  may  come  upon  palaces  which  will  answer 
the  description  of  the  "cura,"  who  assured  Stephens  that  the 
palaces  of  Santa  Cruz  del  Quiche,  which  in  1841  were  found 
in  an  advanced  state  of  dilapidation,  were  in  a  perfect  state  of 
preservation  thirty  years  before,  and  that  they  had  reminded 
him  of  the  buildings  of  his  own  country  ;  that  at  Coban,  in  the 
province  of  Vera  Paz,  stood  an  ancient  city  (Utatlan)  as  large 
as  Vera  Cruz,  now  deserted,  but  almost  as  perfect  as  when 
its  inhabitants  had  abandoned  it.  He  had  walked  in  the  silent 
streets,  among  its  colossal  buildings,  and  found  its  palaces  as 
entire  as  those  at  Vera  Cruz."* 

The  number  of  buildings  in  good  preservation  at  Lorillard 
was  supposed  to  be  twelve,  of  which  six  were  "  casas  cerradas," 
and  six  without  doors.  Balay  in  his  ground  plan  places 
monuments  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  these  we  were 
unable  to  discover  ;  but  we  found  more  than  twelve  monuments 
on  the  left  bank,  three  or  four  of  which  are  still  standing,  having 
no  trace  of  doors,  just  like  those  at  Palenque  where  they  were 
also  supposed  to  exist.  Owing  to  the  distance  from  all  inhabited 
centres  and  the  luxurious  vegetation  which  overruns  these  ruins, 
a  complete  exploration  of  them  is  almost  impossible.  Their 
extent  is  not  known  ;  but  to  judge  from  other  Indian  centres, 
the  number  of  the  monuments  may  be  estimated  at  fifteen  or 
twenty,  consisting  as  usual  of  temples,  palaces,  and  the  huts 
of    the    lower    orders.      These    buildings,    some    65    feet    distant 


*  Stephens,  "  Travels  in  Central  America." 


LoRiLLARD  Town. 


439 


from  the  river,  are  like  those  at  Palenque,  supported  on  terraces 
rising  in  amphitheatre  and  resting  on  natural  hills,  which  the 
builders  made  use  of  to  save  labour.  They  are,  as  usual,  faced 
with  stones,  have  a  central  flight  of  steps,  but  they  are  fewer, 
of  smaller  dimensions,  and  not  so  richly  decorated  as  similar 
edifices  at  Palenque ;  but  the  materials  employed,  the  inner 
decorations,  the  figures  on  the  bas-reliefs  with  retreating  fore- 
heads, are  the  same,  although  more  rudely  built.  The  outline, 
however,  resembles  some  of  the  Yucatec  structures.  It  should 
be  remarked  that  it  is  difficult  to  give  a  correct  description  of 
these  monuments,  for  all  trace  of  outer  decoration  has  dis- 
appeared. 


PLAN   OF   FIRST  TEMPLE  AT  LORILLARD. 


No.  I,  Entrances  with  Sculptured  Lintels  of  Stone.     Nos.  2  and  4,  Niches  with  Platforms  and  Idol. 

No.  3,  Niches.     No.  5,  Apartment. 


The  first  monument  we  study — of  which  a  drawing  and  a 
ground  plan  are  given — is  a  temple.  It  stands  at  a  distance  of 
487  feet  from  the  river,  on  a  mound  about  120  feet  high.  I  call 
it  temple  because  it  contains  a  great  stone  idol  and  niches  which 
must  have  supported  other  idols,  and  that  the  walls  are  black 
from  the  smoke  of  offerings.  The  idol's  head  is  lopped  off,  and 
lies  amidst  the  rubbish  ;  the  face  is  completely  mutilated,  which 
seems  to  show  that  in  the  frequent  inter-tribal  wars,  the  town  was 
taken  and  plundered,  the  temple  demolished,  and  the  vanquished 
gods  destroyed.  This  we  see  in  the  Mexican  manuscripts,  where 
the  defeat  of  a  nation  is  always  represented  by  a  small  edifice 
with  a  prominent  cornice,  which  is  entered  by  the  invader 
a  lighted   torch   in  his  hand. 


440 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


llHfr 


^ 


i^ife^: 


But  when  was  Lorillard  destroyed  ?  I  think  Villa  Gutierre 
Soto  Mayor  *  gives  us  an  approximate  date  when  he 
says :  "  That  the  Iztaes  of  Peten  were  at  enmity  with  the 
Lacandones ;    that    in     1694 — two    years    before    the    fall    of   the 

city  by  the  Spaniards 
— the  former  were 
making  expeditions 
with  fleets  of  canoes 
on  the  Usumacinta 
and  Rio  Tabasco, 
and  that  they  plun- 
dered and  destroyed 
the  towns  situated  on 
the  river."  But  if 
we  follow  Boyle, t  the 
destruction  of  Loril- 
lard would  be  much 
later,  for  we  read : 
"The  Lacandones 
are  of  the  same  race 
as  the  Manchtis  and 
very  numerous  ;  they 
zvere  quite  civilised  a 
htmdred  and  fifty 
years  ago  "  (1730). 
This  idol  is  very 
beautiful  and  unique  of  its  kind,  for  nothing  like  it  has  been 
found  either  in  Tabasco  or  Yucatan.  It  represents  a  figure 
sitting  cross-legged,  the  hands  resting  on  the  knees.  The 
attitude  is  placid  and  dignified,  like  a   Buddha  statue;  the  face, 

*  Villa  Gutierre  Soto  Mayor,  "  History  of  the  Conquest  of  Itza,"  p.  285. 
t  "Boyle's  Ride,"  vol.  i.  pp.  14-17,  quoted  by  Bancroft. 


SMffi 


IDOL   IN    LACANDON   TEMl'LE. 


LoRiLLARD  Town. 


443 


now  mutilated,  is  crowned  by  an  enormous  head-dress,  of  peculiar 
style,  presenting  a  fantastic  head  with  a  diadem  and  medal- 
lions, topped  by  huge  feathers  like  those  on  the  columns  at 
Tula  and  Chichen-Itza.  The  bust  is  admirably  proportioned  ; 
while  the  dress  consists  of  a  rich  cape  embroidered  with  pearls, 
a  medallion  on  each  shoulder  and  in  front,  recalling  Roman 
decorations.  The  same  ornamentation  is  seen  on  the  lower 
part  of  the  body,  having  a  much  larger  medallion  and  a  fringed 
maxtli.     The    arms    are    covered   with    heavy    bracelets.      Round 


LACANDON   VASES   FOUND   AT   LORILLARD   CITY. 


the  idol,  and  in  every  apartment  of  the  building,  are  a  number 
of  bowls  of  coarse  clay  of  some  4  or  6  inches  in  diameter  by 
2  inches  in  height.  The  borders  are  ornamented  with  masks 
representing  faces  with  flat  or  aquiline  noses,  utterly  devoid 
of  artistic  feeling.  Nevertheless  the  difference  of  type  is  note- 
worthy, and  may  point  to  two  different  races.  These  bowls 
were  used  as  censers,  for  some  are  still  filled  with  copal.  Our 
cut  shows  two  specimens.  Similar  bowls  are  found  in  all  the 
buildings  which  were  used  as  temples. 

This  temple  is  pierced  by  three  openings,  with  stone   lintels 
fairly   carved  ;    its  facade  is  about  68   feet    by    19  feet   6    inches 


444  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

long,  its  height  to  the  decorative  wall  is  17  feet  to  19  feet; 
the  latter,  of  lattice-work,  is  14  feet  high,  and  recalls  similar 
structures  at  Kabah,  and  more  particularly  the  Pigeon  House 
at  Uxmal.  The  decoration  must  have  been  very  rich,  for  in 
the  central  upper  wall  is  a  large  panel  which  was  occupied  by 
a  figure  sitting  on  a  bench  which  is  still  standing.  The  masonry 
which  formed  the  body  of  the  statue  is  yet  visible,  while  a  narrow 
long  stone  to  the  right  formed  the  shin-bone  of  the  figure's 
left  leg  ;  a  method  of  working  which  we  pointed  out  at  Palenque, 
Izamal,  and  Ake,  and  called  the  "cement  epoch."  Below  in  the 
great  frieze  forming  the  body  of  the  edifice,  three  large  panels 
were  also  occupied  by  statues,  which  were  still  standing.  In 
the  central  panel  to  the  right,  the  masonry  which  formed  the 
bodies  before  the  fall  of  the  plaster  is  still  visible  ;  while  eight 
niches,  in  groups  of  two  each,  contained  idols  of  smaller  dimensions. 

On  the  first  esplanade  of  the  pyramid  is  another  building, 
which  to  judge  from  its  inner  arrangement  was  the  priest's 
house.  This  temple  is  neither  stately  nor  ancient,  for  hardly 
any  rubbish  has  accumulated  at  the  foot  of  the  building. 

We  give  here  the  drawing  of  a  diminutive  ancient  temple  in 
terra- cotta,  to  be  seen  in  the  Trocadero,  and  which  we  found  on 
the  Uplands  of  Mexico.  It  consists  of  a  pyramid  with  three  or 
four  stories,  and  a  temple  crowning  its  summit,  with  projecting 
cornices  surmounted  by  a  decorative  wall,  pierced  by  holes 
exactly  like  the  temple  at  Lorillard,  at  Tikal,  and  the  Pigeon 
House  at  Uxmal.  The  most  prejudiced  mind  cannot  but  ac- 
knowledge the  resemblance  and  similarity  of  design  in  the 
religious  architecture  of  the  plateaux,  and  that  of  Chiapas, 
Tabasco,   Yucatan,   and  Guatemala. 

To  the  rear  of  the  temple,  on  a  much  higher  pyramid,  stands 
the  loftiest  and  largest  monument  at  Lorillard.  On  its  vast 
esplanade  were   six  palaces,    forming  a  rectangle.      One   of  these 


LoRiLLARi)  Town. 


445 


palaces,  having  stone  lintels  finely  sculptured,  is  still  partly 
standing,  but  so  decayed  that  we  could  do  nothing  with  it.  As 
for  the  othc;r  buildings,  they  are  a  ruinous  h(;ap.  The  narrow 
openings  had  stone  lintels,  while  those  of  the  large  entrances 
were  of  wood  ;  this  was  probably  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  pro- 
curing blocks  of  stone  of  sufficient  size  for  the  main  doorways. 
Remains  of  wooden  lintels  and  zapote  wood  are  still  found  in 
the  walls.  This  l)uilding,  whether  it  was  the  cacique's  residence 
or  a  fortress,  is  admirably  situ- 
ated, and  from  the  upper  terrace 
a  magnificent  view  extending 
over  boundless  woodlands  is 
obtained.  It  should  be  borne  in 
mind  that  in  an  unhealthy,  burn- 
ing climate,  dwellings  on  the 
summits  of  pyramids  were  a 
necessity  for  health,  pure  air, 
absence  of  mosquitoes  and  other 
disagreeable  insects  ;  that  is  the 
reason  why  we  invariably  find 
buildings  of  any  dimensions  sup- 
ported on  mounds  and  terraces. 
The  palace  we  inhabit  is 
below  the  temple  and  on  the  first  grade  of  the  hill  or  amphi- 
theatre. What  remains  of  its  decorations  is  like  that  of  the 
temple,  but  ruder  and  more  dilapidated.  The  doors  are 
irregular,  of  different  size,  with  slanting  or  perpendicular  jambs 
and  niches  distributed  without  any  order.  The  decorative  wall 
which  crowned  the  building  has  fallen  in  ;  the  frieze  is  but 
a  confusion  of  holes,  niches,  and  projecting  stones.  The  inner 
arrangement  is  rather  peculiar,  being  a  maze  of  narrow  passages, 
small    apartments     having    platforms    of   masonry    covered   over 


^^•^ 


MODEL   OF   AN'CIENT   TEMPLE. 


446 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


with  plaster,  which  may  have  been  used  as  beds.  Another  long 
narrow  platform,  occupying  the  centre  of  the  main  passage, 
we  thought  was  the  dining-room,  and  was  used  as  such.  To  the 
rear,  in  a  subterraneous  portion  which  is  reached  by  a  very  steep 
passage,  are  two  narrow  apartments  filled  up  to  the  ceiling,  which 
were  probably  tombs.  They  reminded  me  of  similar  chambers  at 
Palenque,  in  which  I  found  skeletons  and  vases. 


PLAN   OF   TAtACE   WE   INHABITED   AT   LORILLARD. 

No.  I,  Shafts  of  Sculptured  Columns.    No.  2,  Niches.    No.  3,  Entrances.  No.  4,  Large  Passages. 

Nos.   5  and  6,  Niches  with  Platforms.      No.  7,  Inner  Chamber.  No.  S,  Cement  Table. 

No.   9,   Sloping   Passages   leading   to   Subterraneous   Apartments.  No.    10,    Low    Walls. 
No.  II,  Filled  Tombs.     No.  12,  Altar.     No.  13,  Back  Issues. 

The  facade  of  this  building  is  65  feet  by  52  feet  long.  Two 
fragments  of  sculptured  columns,  about  2  feet  in  height,  the  use 
of  which  is  not  known,  but  which  may  have  been  altars  supporting 
household  gods,  or  pediments  for  censers,  are  found  in  the  front 
yard.  On  clearing  the  edifice  of  its  vegetation,  I  found  that  the 
average  of  concentric  circles,  showing  the  age  of  the  trees,  were 
ten  or  twelve  a  year,  just  as  at   Palenque. 


LoRiLLARD  Town.  447 


1  may  remark  that  virgin  forests  have  no  very  old  trees, 
being  destroyed  by  insects,  moisture,  Hanas,  etc.  ;  and  old 
monteros  tell  me  that  mahogany  and  cedar-trees,  which  are  most 
durable,  do  not  live  above  200  years.  In  our  passage  through 
the  forest,  even  on  days  when  there  was  not  a  breath  of  wind, 
trees  were  falling  in  every  direction.  In  a  storm  they  fall  about 
in  hundreds,  and  the  journey  is  then  most  dangerous.  Monu- 
ments cannot  be  gauged,  therefore,  from  the  size  of  the  trees 
Qfrowinsf  in  and  over  them.  Another  feature  of  viro^in  forests 
is  that  they  do  not  strike  the  mind  as  anything  particular,  and 
I  know  none  which  can  at  all  compare  with  Fontainebleau. 

To  the  south-west  of  our  residence  is  another  great  pyramid, 
having  circular  buildings,  which  must  have  been  a  temple,  for 
we  found  a  great  number  of  vases  for  perfumes,  both  on  the 
ground  floor  and  in  the  upper  portion  of  the  edifice.  The  body 
of  the  monument  is  of  the  usual  type,  but  the  first  story  (a  side 
of  which  is  shown  in  our  cut)  affords  a  new  specimen  of  the 
Indian  mode  of  building.  We  think  this  but  an  extension  of 
the  decorative  wall  ;  it  consists  of  a  narrow  apartment  and  a 
receding  passage  extending  from  end  to  end,  terminating  at  each 
extremity  with  the  peculiar  opening  seen  in  our  drawing. 

We  have  also  noticed  a  greater  variety  in  the  triangular  vaults 
(arches)  of  these  buildings,  which  are  either  straight,  concave,  or 
convex  ;  sometimes  the  latter  vault  has  no  key,  and  the  two  walls 
meet  with  an  acute  angle,  whereas  in  Tabasco  and  Yucatan,  they 
are  straight  or  concave  only.  Lintels  are  more  numerous  and 
richly  sculptured  than  in  Yucatan,  but  they  are  only  found  in 
edifices  which  we  suppose  were  temples  or  palaces.  The  best 
carved  are  small,  and  seem  to  replace  both  the  slabs  covered  with 
inscriptions,  the  rear  of  altars,  and  the  sculptured  pillars  of  the 
buildings  at  Palenque. 

The  first  we  give  occupies  the  central  door  of  the  temple,  and 


448 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


is  3  feet  9  inches  long,  by  2  feet    10  inches  wide.     Two  figures 
with  retreating  foreheads  form  the  main  subject,  having  the  usual 


SliCOND   Tii-Ml'LE   OF   LORILLARU. 


high  head-dress  of  feathers,  cape,  collar,  medallion,  and  maxtli 
like  the  idol  ;  while  their  boots  are  fastened  on  the  instep  with 
leather  strings,  as  similar  figures  at  Palenque.  They  are  of 
different   size,  and  represent    probably  a   man   and   a   woman   ])cr- 


LoRiLLARi)  Town. 


449 


forming  a  religious  ceremony  ;  the  taller  holds  in  each  hand  a 
Latin  cross,  while  the  oth(u-  carries  but  one  in  the  right  hand. 
Rosettes  form  the  branches  of  the  crosses,  a  symbolic  bird  crowns 
the  upper  portion,  whilst  twenty-three  katunes  are  scattered  about 
the  bas-relief.     We  think  this  a  symbolic  representation  of  Tlaloc, 


SCULPTURED   LINTEL   AT   LORILLARD, 


whose  chief  attribute  was  a  cross,  which  here  consists  of  palms 
or  more  probably  maize-leaves  intermingled  with  human  figures, 
recalling  to  the  memory  of  his  devotees  the  god  who  presided 
over  harvests. 

The  two  high  reliefs  which  follow  are  also  lintels  from  a  small 
ruined  edifice  at   the   foot   of  the  pyramid,  of  great  interest  and 

2    G 


450  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

marvellous  richness  of  detail,  than  which  nothing  at  Palenque  is 
so  minute.  The  first  represents  two  human  figures  surrounded 
by  a  snake  or  volute,  the  centre  of  which  is  occupied  by  a  car- 
touche containing  four  hieroglyphics.  The  figure  to  the  left 
holding  a  sceptre  in  his  right  hand,  with  an  aigret  in  his  huge 
head-dress,  similar  to  that  in  the  palace  at  Palenque,  may  be  a 
king,  or  more  probably  a  priest  of  Ouetzalcoatl.  Both  figures 
wear  the  usual  dress,  but  the  priest's  medallion  is  a  gem  of  art. 
The  inscription,  half  of  which  is  in  a  good  state  of  preserva- 
tion, is  a  series  of  characters  mixed  with  the  human  figures,  like 
the  inscriptions  in  Chiapas  and  Tabasco.  We  think  these  two 
figures  portray  a  ceremony  in  honour  of  Ouetzalcoatl ;  for  in  the 
First  Part  of  the  Troano  manuscript  (Plate  XXVI.)  as  well  as  in 
the  Second  (Plate  XVII.),  which  are  obviously  dedicated  to  this 
deity,  we  find  figures  resembling  that  on  our  slab.  It  is  by  far  the 
most  wonderful  monument  which,  up  to  the  present  time,  has  been 
found  in  America,  and  which  we  can  boldly  call  a  work  of  art. 
If  we  except  the  flat  foreheads,  everything  is  perfect  in  this 
monument ;  and  nothing  in  the  early  manifestations  of  ancient 
civilisations  is  found  more  rich  or  better  treated  than  this  ;  as 
seen  in  the  hands,  the  head-dress,  the  superb  mantle  of  the 
kneeling  figure,  the  dignified,  majestic  mien  of  the  standing  priest. 
We  said  that  this  relief,  and  the  edifice  to  which  it  belongs, 
were  dedicated  to  Cukulcan,  representing  a  religious  ceremony, 
or  rather  sacrifice ;  for  the  kneeling  priest  has  a  rope  passed 
through  his  tongue,  whilst  the  other  holds  over  him  a  huge 
palm,  encouraging  him  to  go  on  with  his  penance,  and  this  is 
corroborated  by  Sahagun,  who  says :  *  "  They  pierced  a  hole 
with  a  sharp  itzli  knife  through  the  middle  of  the  tongue,  and 
passed  a   number  of  twigs,   according  to  the  degree  of  devotion 


Sahagun,  "  Historia  Geaeral  dc  las  Cosas  de  la  Niieva  Espana," 


STONE   LINTEL,  SACRIFICE   TO   CUKULCAN,  LORILLARD   CITY. 


2    G    2 


LoRiLLARD  Town.  45, 


of  the  performer.  These  twigs  were  sometimes  fastened  the  one 
to  the  other  and  pulled  through  the  tongue  like  a  long  cord. 
They  were  also  passed  through  a  hole  in  the  ear,  and  other  parts 
of  the  body  ;  but  wherever  they  were  passed,  four  hundred  and 
even  more  were  used  by  the  penitent,  which  done,  his  sins  were 
forgiven." 

Torquemada  also  mentions  these  penances  :  "  The  priests 
of  Camaxtli  and  Cholula,  i.e.  of  Ouetzalcoatl,  under  the  super- 
intendence of  their  elder,  or  achcaiUli,  provided  themselves  with 
sticks  two  feet  long  and  the  size  of  the  fist,  and  with  them  they 
repaired  to  the  main  temple,  where  they  fasted  five  days.  Then 
carpenters  and  tool-workers  were  brought,  who  were  required  to 
fast  the  same  number  of  days,  at  the  end  of  which  they  were 
given  food  within  the  precincts  of  the  temple.  The  former  worked 
the  sticks  to  the  required  size,  whilst  the  tool-makers  made  knives 
of  obsidian,  with  which  they  cut  the  priests'  tongues  from  side  to 
side. 

"  More  prayers  followed,  when  all  the  priests  prepared  for  the 
sacrifice,  the  elders  giving  the  example  by  passing  through  their 
tongue  four  or  five  hundred  twigs,  followed  by  such  among  the 
young  who  had  sufficient  courage  to  imitate  them.  But  the 
pain  was  so  sharp  that  few  went  through  the  whole  number  ;  for 
although  the  first  twigs  were  thinned  out,  they  became  stouter 
each  time,  until  they  attained  the  size  of  a  thumb,  sometimes 
twice  as  much.  Not  unfrequently  the  achcautli  sang  a  hymn 
during  this  horrible  operation,  to  encourage  his  younger  com- 
panions in  the  pursuance  of  their  duty.  The  achcautli  was  wont 
also  to  go  about  admonishing  the  people  to  prepare  for  the 
great  feast  (sacrifices),  and  in  Ids  hand  was  cain'icd  a  large  green 
hvig.''^     This  green  twig  was  replaced  by  a  palm  in  warm  regions, 

*  Torquemada,  "  Monarquia  Indiana,"  lib.  x.  cap.  xxvi. 


454  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

as  in  our  relief,   the  leaves  of  which  rest  on   the  double  volute 
so  often  seen  about  Ouetzalcoatl's  mouth. 

We  read  in  Clavigero  that :  "  The  blood  which  flowed  from 
these  self-inflicted  wounds  was  carefully  kept  on  the  leaves  of 
a  plant  called  acxoyail,  having  a  number  of  straight  stalks  and 
large  leaves  growing  symmetrically."*  Is  there  no  connection 
between    this    plant    and   the  palm   of  our   figure  ? 

Landa  too  relates  that  these  macerations  were  common  to 
the  Mexican  and  Maya  priests  :  "  The  Mayas  offered  their  blood 
to  the  gods,  cutting  their  ears  all  round  and  allowing  the  bits 
to  hang  down  ;  sometimes  they  pierced  their  cheeks,  their  lower 
lip,  or  their  tongue,  and  passed  twigs  through  them."t 

And  at  page  9  of  Letellier's  "Codex,"  in  the  National  Library, 
we  find  opposite  the  image  of  Cukulcan,  a  painting  representing 
a  priest,  passing  a  member  of  twigs  through  his  tongue,  whilst  the 
blood  is  flowing  freely. 

We  have  seen  that  one  of  the  attributes  of  Cukulcan  was 
the  cross,  a  symbol  of  rain,  the  fertilising  element.  "The  cross," 
says  Brinton,  "  is  the  symbol  of  the  four  winds  ;  the  bird  and 
serpent,  the  rebus  of  the  air  god  (Ouetzalcoatl)  their  ruler."  J  This 
god  was  therefore  intimately  connected  with  Tlaloc  and  his  sister 
or  mate  Chalchiutlicue,  and  that  is  why  the  three  deities  are  often 
found  side  by  side,  sometimes  mixed  or  confused,  owing  probably 
to  their  festival  falling  on  the  same  day.  §  The  cult  of  Ouetzalcoatl 
and  Tlaloc  was  spread  by  the  Toltecs  in  their  long  wanderings  ; 
consequently  we  find  them  at  Lorillard  just  as  we  did  on  the 
plateaux. 

*  Clavigero,  "  Historia  Antigua,"  tome  i.  lib.  vi.  pp.  154,  171. 
t  Landa,  "Relacion  de  las  Cosas  de  Yucatan,"  sec.  xxviii.  p.  162. 
X  Brinton,  "American  Hero  Myths."     Philadelphia. 

§  Vide  also  Saliagun,  "  Historia  General  de  las  Cosas  de  la  Nueva  Espana," 
lib.  II.  cap.  i. 


LoKiLLARD  Town.  455 


We  discovered  in  another  temple  two  inscriptions  on  stone 
lintels,  like  all  the  other  bas-reliefs  at  Lorillard,  resembling 
those  given  by  Stephens  at  Chichen  and  Copan,  rather  than 
those  which  accompany  the  figures.  We  place  them  side  by 
side  in  the  next  chapter,  to  enable  the  reader  to  judge  for  him- 
self. This  is  not  the  first  time  we  have  pointed  out  a  difference 
between  the  characters  of  the  various  inscriptions  we  have  pub- 
lished ;  but  a  difference  does  not  imply  dissimilarity,  and  can  in 
no  way  invalidate  their  common  origin.  If  we  look  at  home  we 
shall  find  that  the  writing  of  the  nations  of  Europe  has  been 
greatly  modified,  and  that  the  Gothic  characters  of  the  twelfth 
century  bear  no  resemblance  to  the  Roman  type  of  the  sixteenth. 
These  inscriptions  may  belong  to  different  epochs  or  different 
dialects,  and  we  have  reason  to  believe  that  the  Toltecs  of 
Central  America  had  a  hieratic  writing  which  was  used  both 
by  the  priests  and  the  military  caste,  of  which  proof  exists  in 
the  bas-reliefs  and  the  stone  inscriptions,  where  the  figures  are 
represented  sitting  cross-legged,  whereas  in  the  inscriptions 
which  we  suppose  to  be  in  the  vulgar  tongue,  and  also  in 
the  paper  manuscripts,  the  figures  are  squatting,  their  chin 
resting  on  their  knees  Indian  fashion.  There  is  a  third 
writing,  or  symbolical  character,  which  was  used  in  the  Aztec 
manuscripts,  and  also  in  Toltec  and  Aztec  sculptures,  to  denote 
a  man  or  a  place ;  as  seen  on  the  tribal  leaves  published 
by  Lorenzana,  on  Tizoc's  stone,  and  on  the  bas-reliefs  at 
Chichen-Itza. 

We  do  not  know  Toltec  writing,  for  the  manuscripts  which 
were  read  by  Ixtlilxochitl,  those  found  by  Boturini,  and  inter- 
preted by  Veytia  (so  he  affirms),  have  disappeared ;  but  it  is 
probable  that  their  current  writing  has  been  preserved  on  the 
stone  tables  of  Central  America,  where  it  was  used  as  a  hieratic 
or  learned  language,  of  which  the  Dresden  and  Troano  MSS.  are 


45^  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

specimens,  but  that  they  adopted  the  language  of  the  regions 
where  they  estabhshed  themselves. 

Egypt  had  three  kinds  of  writing  ;  and  in  the  inscriptions  of 
the  far  East  found  at  Ciampa,  Mr.  Aymonier  has  discovered  a 
hieratic,  an  ancient  vulgar  language,  and  a  dialect  in  common 
use  at  the  present  day. 

Our  work  at  Lorillard  is  done  ;  and  it  is  high  time  that  we 
should  change  our  quarters,  for  Lucian,  my  secretary,  is  in  a 
deplorable  condition,  brought  about  by  the  too  searching  garra- 
patas  and  other  insects.  The  poor  fellow  is  one  sore  from  the 
waist,  and  it  is  a  perfect  wonder  how  he  held  out  so  long.  He 
is  unable  to  stand,  and  has  to  be  carried  on  board  our  boat  bound 
for  "  Paso  Yalchilan." 

I  quit  this  newly-found  city  with  deep  regret,  leaving  a  great 
deal  unexplored,  and  treasures,  maybe,  as  priceless  as  our 
Quetzalcoatl  bas-relief.  The  care  of  making  a  complete  ground 
plan  of  the  place,  and  bringing  to  light  the  monuments  said  to  exist 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  river,  must,  however,  devolve  on  one 
more  fortunate  than  myself. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  at  Yalchilan,  we  received  the  visit 
of  the  old  chief,  who  was  accompanied  this  time  by  his  two  wives 
and  four  young  men.  I  photographed  them,  and  with  the  inter- 
preter's help  I  succeeded  in  keeping  them  fairly  quiet.  They 
all  wear  the  same  dress,  a  kind  of  loose  white  tunic  reaching  to 
the  ankles,  made  of  coarse  calico  prepared  by  the  women.  That 
of  the  chief  and  his  wives  was  dotted  over  with  red  obtained  from 
a  berry  ;  their  hair  is  worn  long  and  loose,  and  the  women  adorn  it 
with  feathers  ;  an  enormous  collar  of  berries,  beads,  bone,  and 
coins  is  around  their  necks,  and  hangs  down  to  their  waist.  They 
hold  great  store  by  their  tunics  and  necklaces,  which  they  would 
not  be  persuaded  to  part  with  in  favour  of  European  goods  ;  this 
does  not  extend  to  their  bows  and  arrow-heads. 


LORILLARI)    TcnVN. 


457 


The  same  dress  being  common  to  both  sexes,  makes  it  some- 
times difficult  to  distinguish  men  from  women,  llie  old  chief 
looks  sharply  after  his  young  wives,  and  this  inclines  me  to  think 
that   the  young  fellows  who  accompany   him  are  bachelors,   and 


SCULPTURED   LINTEL  AT  LORILLARD. 


that  ladies  are  scarce  in  the  forest.  As  a  matter  of  fact,  women 
are  the  main  cause  of  their  dissensions,  and  we  witness  here  a 
real  struggle  for  selection. 

They  still  use  stone  implements  to  fell  trees  and  cultivate  the 
land,  so  that  on  seeinq-  the  steel  hatchets,  knives,  and  swords   I 


458  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


gave  them,  the  chief  exclaimed  in  the  words  of  the  Lystrians : 
"  These  are  gods  and  not  men,  who  give  us  such  wonderful 
things." 

The  Lacandones  wear  no  beard,  and  the  hair  that  makes 
its  appearance  is  immediately  extracted.  They  are  well  formed 
and  of  medium  size,  but  their  flesh  is  flabby,  their  teeth  decayed, 
and  they  look  anaemic,  owing  probably  to  their  forest  life. 
They  live  on  the  produce  of  the  chase,  fishing,  and  agriculture. 
I  am  told  that  their  fields  are  better  cultivated  than  those  of  the 
whites,  their  cabins  neat,  and  that  there  is  no  lack  of  tobacco, 
cotton,  maize,  and  fruit.  They  have  lost  many  useful  arts 
which  were  known  to  their  ancestors,  such  as  pottery,  which 
they  replace  by  a  variety  of  calabashes  ;  nevertheless,  they  are 
far  from  being  as  savage  as  is  supposed.  Their  cruelty  is  the 
result  of  their  hospitality  and  confidence  having  been  grossly 
abused  by  the  monteros.  I  could  learn  nothing  respecting  their 
religion,  except  that  before  the  discovery  of  the  ruins  by  the 
whites,  they  used  to  perform  their  religious  ceremonies  in  them. 
They  are  extremely  diffident,  and  will  hide  in  the  woods  at  the 
approach  of  strangers. 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 


Peten,  Tayasal,  Tikal,  and  Copax. 


Departure  from  Peten — The  River — The  Sierra— Sacluc  or  Libertad — Cortez' 
Route — Marzillo's  Story — Flores — Ancient  Tayasal — Conquest  of  Peten — 
Various  Expeditions — The  Town  Captured — The  Inhabitants  Disappear — 
Monuments  Described — Tikal — Early  Explorers — Temples — Bas-reliefs  on 
Wood — Retrospection — Bifurcation  of  the  Toltec  Column  at  Tikal — Tikal 
— Toltecs  in  Guatemala — Copan — Demolition  of  Copan — Quetzalcoatl — 
Transformation  of  Stone  Altar  Bas-reliefs  into  Monolith  Idols — End  of  an  Art 
Epoch — Map  of  Toltec  Migrations. 

Peten  can  be  reached  from  Yalchilan  either  by  going  up  the 
Usumacinta,  which  a  few  hours  beyond  takes  the  name  of  Rio  de 
la  Pasion,  or  through  the  woods  on  the  abominable  old  Indian 
road  described  by  every  traveller.  We  elect  the  latter,  which, 
although  longer,  is  easier  for  our  men,  who  will  have  mules  to 
carry  the  heavy  baggage. 

About    noon    we    come  again    upon    Pepe    Mora,    who    looks 
worse  than  ever;    but   far  from   thinking  of  leaving  his   post,  he 


460  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

has  thoughts  of  founding  a  colony  here,  and  has  begun  by 
planting  orange-trees  and  red  chermoias.  He  gives  us  a  sac 
of  smoked  dry  boar,  we  tender  our  thanks  and  bid  good-bye  to 
the  good  old  fellow,  whom  in  all  probability  we  shall  never  meet 
again,  and  about  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  reach  our  first 
encampment. 

The  small  river  which  has  been  our  guiding  mark  is  barely 
3  feet  deep,  but  its  banks  are  so  high  and  steep  that  our  mules 
will  only  venture  in  after  much  coaxing,  but  once  in  the  stream 
they  feel  so  nice  and  cool  that  they  are  persuaded  with  great 
difficulty  to  leave  it.  As  for  the  Mariposa  entrusted  with  my 
wardrobe,  notes,  and  plates,  she  laid  down  and  completely  dis- 
appeared all  but  the  head.  I  thought  it  was  all  over  with  my 
documents,  and  was  not  able  to  refrain  from  a  cry  of  horror ;  it 
was  a  false  alarm,  which,  however,  obliged  us  to  spend  the  best 
part  of  the  night  round  the  fires  to  dry  both  clothes  and  photo- 
graphs. In  the  evening  we  reached  the  spot  where  we  had  left 
some  of  our  supplies ;  everything  was  exactly  as  it  had  been 
left,  but  we  could  hear  nothing  of  the  wretched  horse  which  had 
been  abandoned. 

Next  day  we  took  the  Peten  road,  and  arrived  four  days  later 
at  Sacluc,  now  Libertad,  the  chief  town  of  Peten,  and  the  last 
inhabited  place  in  Guatemala.  It  is  but  a  wretched  village,  like 
all  we  have  seen  in  these  warm  regions  ;  it  lacks  everything,  and 
we  should  literally  have  starved,  but  for  some  clerks,  who  gave 
up  to  us  an  azotea  (flat  roof)  and  part  of  their  supplies. 

Our  road  led  east-south-east  up  to  this  point ;  but  now  its 
direction  is  north  as  far  as  Flores,  some  thirty  miles  beyond, 
which  stands  on  an  islet  of  the  lake  of  Peten.  This  road  is 
not  far  from  the  Sacpui  lagoon  mentioned  by  Bernal  Diaz  in 
his  account  of  Cortez'  expedition  to  Honduras,  when  the 
Spaniards  ''passed  a  village  surroiLiided  by  a  grcal  lake  of  fresh 


Pp:ten,  Tavasal,  Tikal,  and  Copan.  461 


luater.  Near  it  was  a  river  emptying  in  the  lake,  which  was 
used  by  the  Indians  to  go  to  the  Sacpui  lagoon  (Chaltuna)  and 
Tayasal,  capital  of  Peten-Itza. 

"  The  place,"  says  the  veteran  soldier,  "  has  white  houses 
and  temples  which  glitter  in  the  sun  and  can  be  seen  six 
miles  distant."*  It  is  clear  that  Cortez  was  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  only  important  river  discharging  itself  in  the  lake,  for 
he  dispatched  five  Spaniards  and  two  Indians  in  a  canoe  to 
require  the  cacique  of  Tayasal  to  furnish  him  with  boats  to 
cross  the  river.  It  proves  also  that  the  march  was  much 
further  south  than  Palenque,  and  that  Izancanac  was  not 
Palenque  and  still  less  Lorillard,  as  advanced  by  Maler  in 
the  "Bulletin  de  la  Societe  G^ographique,  2""  trimestre  1884," 
page  275.  His  assertion  is  all  the  more  extraordinary  that 
Diaz'  account  shows  plainly  that  Cortez  must  have  gone  up  the 
S.  Pedro  valley  to  come  upon  this  place,  the  only  one  which 
corresponds   to   Diaz'   map  and   itinerary. 

It  is  too  absurd  to  suppose  that  Cortez,  who  was  provided 
with  a  mariner's  compass,  whose  route  lay  by  Tayasal,  should 
have  abandoned  the  broad  level  and  eastern  direction  to  turn 
south  and  encounter  the  stupendous  difficulties  of  crossing  the 
abrupt  range  which  divides  S.  Pedro  from  upper  Usumacinta 
— a  detour  of  more  than  ninety  miles.  In  that  case  he  would 
have  approached  the  Sacpui  lagoon  on  the  southern  and  not 
on  the  western  side,  and  there  would  have  been  no  river  to 
cross.     We   will  give   Diaz'   own  words  : 

"The  villages  towards  which  we  steered  were  on  an  islet, 
near  a  fresh-water  lake,  which  could  only  be  reached  by  canoes. 
We  walked  round  two  miles  and  discovered  a  ford  where  the 
w^ater  was    up    to   our    waist.      Here    we    got    some   guides,   and 


*  Bernal  Diaz,  "  Historia  Verdadera  de  la  Conquista  de  la  Nueva  Espana." 


462  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


when  Cortez,  through  Dona  Marina,  asked  them  to  take  us 
to  the  towns  inhabited  by  bearded  men,  they  answered  that 
they  were  quite  ready  to  do  so.  Five  accompanied  us ;  and 
the  road,  broad  at  first,  became  ver}'  narrow,  oiving  to  a  great 
rivei'  which  discharges  itself  in  an  estuary  not  far  distant.  Here 
the  Indians  ente7'ed  their  boats  to  go  to  the  town  zve  were  dottnd 
for,  called  Tayasal."  * 

The  cacique  himself  came  forward  and  conducted  Cortez  to 
his  island,  who  left  his  wounded  horse  Marzillo  to  the  care  of 
the  Indians.  They,  after  the  general's  departure,  offered  him 
divine  honours  and  the  offerings  of  their  idols,  but  the  invalided 
animal  got  worse  under  such  fare  and  at  last  died.  The  affrighted 
Iztaes  raised  him  a  temple  and  placed  in  it  his  sculptured  image, 
worshipping  him  under  the  name  of  Izimin  Chac  ("  thunder  and 
lightning "),  because,  having  witnessed  some  of  the  cavaliers 
shooting  deer,  they  imagined  that  the  flash  of  their  guns 
proceeded  from  the  animal. f  The  name  Izimin  Chac  recalls 
the  pyramid  at  Izamal  called  Papp-hol-Chac,  "house  of  heads 
and  liorhtnino-." 

o  o 

Flores,  our  next  stage,  Is  a  lovely  place  built  on  the  site 
of  ancient  Tayasal,  beautifully  situated  on  a  great  lake  surrounded 
by  a  lofty  range  of  hills.  The  Spaniards  found  the  Iztaes,  who 
had  come  from  Yucatan,  established  here.  All  marks  of  sculp- 
ture and  architecture  have  disappeared  ;  nevertheless,  we  are  able 
to  reconstruct  its  history  and  show  that  the  monuments  were  not 
ancient. 

When  Cortez  passed  here,  the  town  still  numbered  among 
its  inhabitants  men  who  had  come  with  the  emigrant  column 
from  Yucatan,  and  this  tradition  was  current  two  centuries  later. 
They  had  preserved  the  ancient  civilisation  of  the  Toltecs,   and 

*  Bernal  Diaz,  vol.  11.  chap,  clxxiii.  p.  374. 

t  Villa  Gutierrc  Soto  Mayor,  "  Historia  de  la  Conquista  del  Itza,"  chap,  ix 


Pkten,  Tavasal,   Tikal,  and  CoI'AN.  46^ 


used  the  same  characters  to  record  their  history,  which  were 
handed  down  on  manuscripts  called  ''  Ajtalles,"  exemplified  in 
the  Yucatec  and  Mexican  manuscripts.*  "  Their  idols,"  says 
P.  Fuensalida,  "were  like  those  of  the  peninsula." 

Such  writers  as  Villa  Gutierre  Soto  Mayor,  Cogolludo, 
and  Remesal  t  mention  various  expeditions  sent  to  subdue  this 
gallant  little  people,  which  was  the  last  to  surrender  to  Spanish 
arms. 

The  expedition  from  Yucatan  was  in  161 8,  two  monks  taking 
part  in  it  to  convert  the  natives.  They  found  at  Tayasal  the 
language,  the  manners,  the  customs  and  architecture  of  Yucatan 
before  the  Conquest,  with  a  population  of  25,000  to  30,000  souls, 
which  would  incline  us  to  infer  that  the  great  cities  we  have 
visited  were  larger  and  contained  more  buildings  than  we  thought 
possible. 

"These  temples,''  says  Cogolludo,  "raised  as  usual  on 
pyramids,  were  of  the  same  dimensions  as  the  largest  churches 
in  Yucatan,  and  were  capable  of  holding  over  1,000  persons. 
In  one  of  them  stood  the  Izimin  Chac,  Cortez'  horse,  which 
seeing,  one  of  the  monks.  Padre  Juan  de  Orbita,  filled  with 
indignation,  rushed  at  the  idol  and  broke  it  with  a  huge  stone." 
But  this  ill-advised  zeal   well-nio-h    caused  the  destruction  of  the 

o 

troop,  which  was  only  saved  by  the  friendly  interference  of  the 
cacique.  % 

There  followed  a  second,  then  a  third  expedition  under  Martin 
Ursua  (1696),  who,  on  his  march  to  Peten,  found  a  place  called 
Rohbeccan,  "a  city  with  edifices  filled  with  idols." 

*  Gutierre  Soto  Mayor,  vol.  i.  p.  500.  "Their  MSS.  were  written  on  deer's 
skins  or  the  bark  of  trees  prepared  into  a  kind  of  felt  covered  over  with  a  white 
paste.     They  could  be  folded  like  a  map  and  put  in  a  case." 

t  Remesal,  "  Historia  de  la  Provincia  de  Guatemala  y  Chiapas,"  vol.  x.  chaps, 
iii.,  xi.,  xii. 

X  Cogolludo,  vol.  n.  chap.  ix. 


464  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


Tayasal  was  attacked  and  taken  on  the  2nd  of  March,  1696,'"' 
when  the  survivors  of  the  struggle  retired  to  the  inaccessible 
fastnesses  of  the  northern  islands,  their  spirit  still  unbroken. 

The  more  we  advance,  the  clearer  it  becomes  that  if  nume- 
rous towns  were  found  deserted,  it  does  not  prove  their  antiquity, 
but  rather  the  deep,  universal  hatred  of  the  natives  for  the  con- 
querors. This  city  had  twelve  temples  in  1618,  and  twenty-one 
in  1696,  so  that  nine  were  built  during  the  seventeenth  century; 
among  the  latter  was  the  finest  of  all,  described  by  Villa  Gutierre 
Soto  Mayor  in  the  following  words  :  "  The  great  temple  was 
entirely  built  of  stones,  lofty  and  square  in  shape,  with  a  fine 
balcony  of  cut  stones,  and  two  ogival  vaults,  each  side  measuring 
20  varas"  (about  60  feet).t  This,  we  think,  disposes  of  the 
prehistoric  temples  scattered  in  the  forests  of  the  peninsula. 

This  temple,  although  more  finely  built,  recalls  the  Castillo  at 
Chichen,  the  chief  features  of  which  are  reproduced  here  on  a 
larger  scale.  Is  not  this  sufficient  proof  that  the  monuments  were 
modern,  and  not  the  work  of  an  extinct  race  ?  We  find  Tayasal 
a  descendant,  a  daughter  of  Chichen- 1 tza,  just  as  Tikal  is  its 
ascendant  or  ancestress  ;  the  latter  will  give  us  the  key  to  the 
chief  cause  of  the  Toltec  migrations  in  Yucatan,  and  Vv'ill  explain 
the  Toltec  influence  visible  in  the  cities  of  Coban,  Copan,  and 
Quirigua. 

Tikal  is  forty  miles  north-east  of  Florcs,  towards  the  south 
of  the  peninsula.  Two  explorers  have  visited  it  of  late  ;  one  is 
the  Swiss  Bernouilli,  whose  labours  were  interrupted  by  death, 
but  whose  documents  upon  Tikal  are  as  priceless  as  they  are 
interesting.  They  consist  of  twelve  pieces  of  sculptured  zapot6 
wood,  which  were  appropriated  from  the  temples  and  are  now 
in  the    Basle   Museum,  where  I   was  permitted   to  take  squeezes 

*  Cogolludo,  tome  11.  lib.  x.  cap.  ii. 

t  Villa  Gutierre  Soto  Mayor,  "  Conquista  del  Itza,"'  vol.  i. 


PeTKN,    TA^■ASAL,     TiKAL,    AND    Coi'AX. 


465 


of  them  ;  many  arc  damaged  by  the  infikration  of  water  rather 
than  time,  nevertheless,  a  whole  panel  has  been  made,  which  we 
reproduce  the  better  to  elucidate  our  explanations. 

The  other  traveller  is  Alfred  Maudslay,  who  made  Guatemala 
the  main  field  of  his  interesting  and  successful  labours.  We 
borrow  from  his  photographs  and  notes  to  complete  our  descrip- 
tion. "The  buildings  at  Tikal  are  of  stone  laid  in  n\ox\.?cc  smootJicd 
over  with  plaster  (the  cement  epoch  at    Palenquc,    Lorillnrd,   and 


FLORES,   LAKE    OF    I'ETEN. 


Ake).  The  walls  are  generally  3  feet  thick  ;  the  inner  walls 
rise  perpendicularly  to  a  height  of  7  feet,  then  approach  each 
other  to  form  the  well-known  American  vault  or  pointed  arch. 
No  trace  of  true  vaults  are  found,  for  the  acute  angle  of  the 
arch,  and  the  enormous  weight  pressing  on  it,  would  not  allow 
the  walls  to  be  more  than  5  or  6  feet  distant  from  each  other  ; 
so  that  the  interior  of  the  palaces  presents  the  appearance  of 
long  passages  rather  than  apartments."  (Exactly  what  we  pointed 
out  at   Lorillard.)      "The   doors   are   square    at  the  top   and    the 


466  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

lintels  consist  of  three  or  four  pieces  of  wood.  Within  the 
apartments  are  also  pieces  of  the  same  wood,  but  smaller,  and 
placed  across  the  ceiling  5  feet  distant  from  each  other." 

Some  of  these  small  palaces  are  in  a  perfect  state  of  preser- 
vation, but  by  far  the  greater  proportion,  the  lintels  of  which 
have  disappeared,  are  a  ruinous  heap.  As  usual,  the  edifices 
are  reared  on  natural  or  artificial  plateaux,  the  sides  faced  with 
cut  stones.  The  most  important  buildings  are  the  temples, 
which  rise  on  high  pyramids,  the  sides  divided  in  receding 
ranges  or  stories,  shown  in  our  plate. 

The  facade  is  occupied  by  a  flight  of  steps  leading  to  the 
entrance  of  the  temple,  which  is  narrower  than  the  terrace  on 
which  it  stands,  whilst  the  side  of  the  pyramid  corresponding 
to  it  is  on  a  steeper  slope  than  the  fagade  and  remaining  sides. 
(This  we  pointed  out  also  at  Palenque  and  Lorillard.)  The 
pyramid  is  184  ft.  at  the  base  by  168  ft.  ;  the  staircase  is  112  ft. 
high  by  t,S  ft.  wide,  giving  the  pyramid  a  mean  altitude  of  90  ft.  ; 
the  fa9ade  is  41  ft.  by  28  ft.  long  and  about  40  ft.  high,  counting 
the  decoi^ative  zvall  hidden  by  vegetation. 

All  these  temples  are  alike ;  the  characteristic  feature  about 
them  is  the  great  thickness  of  the  walls,  the  niches  on  the  sides 
of  the  main  apartment,  and  the  gradual  narrowing  of  the  edifice 
from  front  to  rear.  The  interior  of  each  consists  of  two  or 
three  narrow  passages  running  on  a  parallel  line  on  the  sides 
and  abutting  on  the  front  corridor,  with  large  openings  and 
wooden  lintels  beautifully  sculptured.  The  inner  walls  of  the 
temples  arc  higher  than  those  of  the  palaces,  whilst  the  vault, 
also  higher,  forms  a  more  acute  angle.  This  is  owing  to  the 
great  decorative  wall  crowning  the  edifice,  the  weight  of  which 
w(ni]d  have  been  excessive,  had  not  the  builder  provided  for  it 
by  thickening  the  walls,  lengthening  the  vault,  and  ^narrowing 
the  apartment. 


PeTEN,    TaVASAL,    TlKAL,    AND    Coi'AN. 


467 


"  I  met  no  idol,  or  any  object  of  veneration  in  these  temples," 
says  Maudslay  :  a  pardonable  error,  since  he  lind   not   yet  visited 


Al.TAR   PANEL   IN   THE   TEMPLE  OF   THE   SUN   OF   TIKAI. 


Palenque  or  Lorillard,  which  would  have  enabled  him  to  see 
in  all  those  pieces  of  sculptured  wood  representations  of  religious 
ceremonies,  which  replaced  the  idols  seemingly  wanting. 


2    H    2 


468  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

"In  the  open  space  or  court  which  stands  between  the  temples, 
are  several  stones  of  the  nature  of  stelae  or  small  menhirs ; 
some  have  their  front  occupied  by  a  human  profile  and  hiero- 
glyphics on  the  sides.  On  others,  both  profiles  and  hieroglyphics 
were  of  very  hard  cement ;  the  stone  had  also  been  smoothed 
over  with  it.  In  this  court  are  likewise  several  circular  altars, 
facsimiles  of  tJiosc  at  Copan.  Some  are  scattered  among  the 
ruins,  but  they  are  generally  plain,  owing  probably  to  the  plaster 
that  composed  the  figures  having  fallen,  and  left  the  stone  surface 
bare.  Circular  openings  of  about  i  foot  9  inches  in  diameter 
occupy  the  centre  of  the  square  or  court,  giving  access  to 
circular  subterraneous  chambers  from  6  feet  to  10  feet  in  diameter. 
They  were  cisterns."  *  Our  plate  shows  one  of  the  temples 
having  these  stones  in  its  court. 

On  comparing  the  edifices  at  Lorillard  with  this  temple,  it 
is  seen  that  the  frieze  which  surmounts  the  plain  wall  at  the  base 
must  have  had  the  same  kind  of  cemented  figures,  whilst  the 
ground  plan  at  Tikal  shows  the  arrangement  of  its  monuments 
to  have  been  similar  with  those  at  Lorillard.  Thus  we  find  at 
Tikal  a  rdsutnd  of  all  that  which  we  noticed  and  studied  in  the 
various  cities  we  have  visited  ;  but  here  we  have  a  new  feature 
in  the  altars,  which  stand  in  the  open  air,  whilst  the  stelae  recall 
the  votive  pillars  at  Teotihuacan  which  develop  in  monoliths  at 
Copan  and  Ouirigua. 

This  analogy  is  plainly  seen  in  our  drawing  of  one  of  these 
stelae,  representing  a  beautifully  sculptured  figure,  in  high  relief, 
with  the  usual  dress  of  priests,  grandees,  and  idols.  A  series 
of  katunes,  like  those  at  Palenque,  Lorillard,  and  Copan,  are 
ranged  on  the  edge  of  the  stone.  Unfortunately  this  monument 
is    in  a  very   dilapidated  condition  ;    but  for  the   head,    which  is 

*  Maudslny,  "  l'".xplorations  in  Guatemala." 


PetI'X,  Tavasal,   Tikal,  and  Copan. 


469 


TEMPLE   AXD   STELA   OF   TIKAL   (FROM   ALFRED   MAUDSLAV). 


wanting,    it   would  have   been  quite   as   remarkable  as  our   high 
relief  at  Lorlllard  (see  end  of  chapter). 

If  we  come  to  details,  a  first  glance  will  show  that  the  superb 


470 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


bas-relief  on  wood  in  the  next  page,  is  a  facsimile  of  the  panels 
to  the  rear  of  the  altars  at  Palenque.  The  dimensions  are  almost 
the  same,  6  feet  high  by  7  feet  6  inches  wide  ;  it  also  represents 
two  fio-ures  in  high  relief,  having  the  peculiar  attributes  generally 
seen  on  American  sculptures.  The  hieroglyphics  on  the  sides  are 
admirably  well  preserved,  and  do  not  betoken  a  very  ancient  epoch, 
for  they  are  just  like  those  at  Palenque,  Lorillard,  and  Copan. 

Unlike    similar    reliefs    at    Pa- 
lenque,    where     the    idol     formed 
the  central  subject,  here  it   is   re- 
placed by  a  standing  human  figure, 
having    an    elaborate    head-dress 
with  fantastic  ornaments  and  huge 
feathers,    recalling     Tabasco     and 
Yucatan.       In  his  hand  is   carried 
a  sceptre  topped   by  a  bird's  tail, 
and  the  rosette  we  noticed  on  the 
crosses  at  Lorillard,  whilst  his  left 
arm  is   almost  hidden  by  a  shield  ; 
he  wears    the   usual   fringed  cape, 
.heavy  collar,  and  large  medallion  ; 
under  this   is    seen  a    rich    mantle 
reaching    almost    to    the    ground  ; 
garters    and   buckles  are  around    his  legs,    and   shoes   cover    his 
feet.     The  Buddhic  religious  cloak  is  seen  also  on  the  kneeling 
priest  at   Lorillard,   and   the   maniple    on    the  arm   is   a  facsimile 
of  one   in  the  palace  at  Kabah. 

To  the  right  below  the  inscription  are  symbolic  ornaments, 
and  towards  the  lower  extremity  two  superb  human  profiles. 
Under  the  left  inscription  is  a  figure  with  a  monstrous  head, 
sitting  on  a  stool  ornamented  with  arms,  with  a  back  of  peculiar 
shape.      Many    (jf  the   ornaments   on  this   panel   are  of  unknown 


QUETZALCOATL   AT   COrAN. 


Peten,  Tavasal,  Tikal,  and  Copan. 


471 


IDOLS  OF  COrAN  (FROM  STEPHENS). 


signification,  but  a  large  portion  is  quite  familiar  and  has  been 
already  reproduced  by  us.  The  most  important  figure  of  all 
is  that  to  the  top  of  the  bas-relief,  above  the  central  figure. 
It  is  a  mask  with    protruding  tongue   representing  the  sun,  like 


472  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


that  of  the  Mexican  calendar  and  the  central  figure  over  the 
altar  in  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Palenque.  The  flames  on 
the  sides  of  the  mask  indicate  this  plainly.  Clearly  this  mag- 
nificent bas-relief  belonged  to  a  temple  dedicated  to  that  great 
Toltec  deity. 

We  know  that  the  worship  of  the  sun  was  general  with 
all  the  American  tribes,  and  if  at  Tikal  we  call  him  the  god  of 
one  particular  race,  it  is  owing  to  the  details  which  surround 
him  ;  both  pyramids,  temples,  inscriptions,  figures,  and  emblems 
particularise  him,  and  give  us  the  right  to  connect  him  with 
the  religion  of  the  Uplands  and  call  him  Toltec. 

We  have  other  panels  consisting  of  scattered  pieces  collected 
in  various  monuments.  Some  of  the  inscriptions  are  in  perfect 
condition,  and  furnish  important  analogies.  One  is  a  human 
profile,  like  the  sculptured  figures  on  the  great  monoliths  at 
Copan  ;  another  has  fine  inscriptions  and  a  characteristic  tiger's 
head,  whilst  below  is  a  figure  of  the  usual  type  and  dress 
sitting  on  a  throne  admirably  carved.  These  reliefs  are  in  the 
Trocadero. 

To  sum  up,  Tikal  is  a  town  which  belongs  to  the  Toltec 
civilisation,  the  march  of  which  we  have  followed  from  their 
first  homes  to  Ocosingo,  Lorillard,  and  Tikal  in  Yucatan,  where 
they  met,  both  in  the  south  and  north  of  Guatemala,  the  first 
branch,  but  Tikal  being  farthest  from  the  starting-point  must 
necessarily  be  younger  than  the  cities  already  described  ;  to 
us,  however,  it  is  one  of  the  most  important  epochs  in  this 
original  civilisation,  inasmuch  as  it  is  an  intermediary  station, 
a  place  whence  the  race  branched  off,  a  fact  which  solves 
questions  and  clears  up  events  not  hitherto  unckn'stood. 

From  Tikal  the  civilisinof  column  advanced  towards  the  north 
of  the  peninsula.  Material  jjroofs  of  this  exist  in  the  cities 
ranged    on    its    line    of    march,    for    instance,    Nohbeccan,    seen 


Peten,   Tavasae,  Tikae,   and  Copan.  473 

by  Ursua,  and  also  in  the  historical  data,  which  the  reader 
may  see  in  our  chapter  on  Chichen-Itza. 

The  uniform  expression  of  the  faces  in  these  bas-reliefs  is 
generally  calm  and  pleasant,  as  at  Palenque,  where  we  pointed 
out  that  after  the  almost  total  extermination  of  their  race,  the 
Toltecs  ceased  to  be  a  warlike  nation  and  became  missionaries 
of  civilisation,  bringing  the  population  around  them  into  sub- 
mission by  their  persuasive  preaching,  like  the  priests  of  Buddha 
in  India  and  Java,  adopting  the  language  of  their  disciples, 
and  building  marvellous  temples  in  honour  of  the  gods  they 
preached.  The  bas-reliefs  at  Palenque,  Lorillard,  and  Tikal 
tell  this  story  very  plainly. 

The  arrival  of  the  Toltecs  in  the  south  of  Yucatan  is  thus 
placed  beyond  a  doubt  ;  but  the  explanation  given  of  the 
abandonment  of  Chichen  by  its  inhabitants  is  highly  unsatis- 
factory. That  exodus,  produced  by  secondary  causes,  was  deter- 
mined by  the  still  living  tradition  that  establishments  had  been 
formed  by  their  ancestors  in  the  south  of  the  peninsula,  and 
that  Tikal,  which  at  that  time  was  perhaps  still  standing,  formed 
the  chief  centre.  It  is  more  than  probable  that  the  caciques 
of  Chichen  had  kept  up  some  intercourse  with  one  of  the 
cradles  of  their  family,  and  when  they  set  their  face  in  that 
direction,  it  was  but  an  instinctive  yearning  to  return  to  Peten. 
To  the  same  Toltec  branch  is  clue  also  the  colonisation  and 
civilisation  of  the  north  of  Guatemala,  Tikal  being  the  central 
point,  whence  some  directed  their  march  north,  whilst  others 
went  south. 

If  we  are  to  believe  the  priest  of  Quiche,  "  he  saw  at  Coban 
a  great  city  which  filled  him  with  astonishment."  We  have 
heard  nothing  of  such  a  place,  nor  has  any  other  traveller ; 
but  if  we  follow  the  affiliation,  it  is  highly  probable  that  Coban 
was  a  station  of  the  Tikal-Toltec  branch,  which  from  this  point 


474  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

went  east,  where  they  founded  Copan  and  Ouirigua  in  the 
province  of  Chiquimula.  Copan  was  standing  at  the  Conquest, 
as  well  as  Utatlan,  Atitlan,  Xelahu,  Patinamit,  and  several 
other  Guatemalec  cities,  which  were  destroyed  by  Alvarado. 
Copan  was  forced  to  yield  after  a  desperate  struggle  to  Hernandez 
de  Chaves,  one  of  his  lieutenants  (1530),  and  Juarros  tells 
us  that  Fuentes  visited  it  in  1700,  when  "the  Great  Circus 
still  remained   entire." 

We  follow  Stephens*  in  the  description  and  illustration  of 
these  monuments,  and  find  that  the  most  remarkable  are  monolith 
idols,  which  are  only  the  development  of  the  stelae  and  monoliths 
at  Tikal,  and  that  the  inscriptions,  bas-reliefs,  and  idols  are 
like  those  of  the  places  we  have  already  described,  except  that 
they  seem  to  us  to  belong  to  a  later  period,  contrary  to  Stephens, 
who  assigned  an  original  civilisation  to  them.  But  Stephens 
began  at  the  wrong  end  when  he  made  Copan  the  first  scene 
of  his  investigations,  and  that  accounts  for  his  want  of  insight 
in  not  having  perceived  that  these  monuments  were  the  out- 
come of  an  old  civilisation.  Later,  his  better  informed  judgment 
enabled  him  to  grapple  with  the  difficulties,  and  arrive  at  the 
truth.     We  claim  but  to  be  his  disciple. 

The  first  drawing  is  a  finely  sculptured  head,  which  he  calls 
a  king ;  but  this  bearded  man,  whose  head  is  locked  in  a 
huge  serpent's  jaw,  whose  head-dress  consists  of  wreathed 
serpents,  or  a  Guatemalec  turban,  is  a  personification  of  Ouetzal- 
coatl,  and  though  the  type  is  somewhat  changed  the  attributes 
are  unmistakable. 

We  have  no  reliable  description  of  the  monuments  at  Copan  ; 
but  from  what  Stephens  says  of  them,  they  seem  to  differ  from 
those   we    have    explored.       Juarros'   description    of  Santa   Cruz 


Incidents  of  Travels  in  Central  America,"  vol.  i.  p.  153. 


Peten,  Tayasal,  Tikal,  and  Copan.  475 

del  Quiche,  Utatlan,  and  other  Guatemako-Toltec  centres, 
recalls  Mexican  cities,  which  may  well  be,  since  they  were 
situated  also  on  plateaux,  and  must  necessarily  have  had  a 
different  appearance  from  those  of  the  warm  regions. 

The  Toltec  branch  of  the  Pacific,  although  influenced  by  their 
surroundings,  had  preserved  the  traditions  of  Anahuac,  and 
reproduced  the  buildings  and  the  same  mode  of  living  suggested 
by  the  resemblance  of  their  present  to  that  of  their  former  homes. 
But  these  two  branches  met  for  the  first  time  at  Copan,  shown 
in  the  mixture  of  the  two  different  styles,  where  the  palaces  and 
temples  seem  to  us  Guatemalto-Toltec,  whilst  the  idols  are 
Tzendal-Toltec,  and  the  stone  bas-reliefs  of  our  temples  are 
replaced  here  and  at  Oulrigua  by  enormous  monoliths  of  12  to 
20  feet  high  by  4  wide  and  3  feet  thick. 

At  Kabah,  which  we  think  coeval  with  Copan,  we  noticed  the 
exaggerated  ornamentation  which  marks  two  different  epochs  ;  the 
same  thing  happened  here,  and  is  a  new  instance  of  a  general 
tendency,  which  may  almost  be  called  a  law  ;  nor  is  it  necessary 
to  be  an  archaeologist  to  affirm  of  these  monuments,  that  they  are 
not  the  beeinnino:  but  the  end  of  an  art,  for  here  we  see  mono- 
liths  loaded  with  all  the  ornaments  and  architectural  designs  which 
at  an  earlier  epoch  had  spread  over  idols,  bas-reliefs,  and  palaces. 

The  inscriptions  not  only  retain  the  ancient  characters,  in 
which  faces  and  human  figures  were  intermingled,  but  they 
sometimes  entirely  consist  of  human  figures  grouped  in  the  most 
violent  postures.  This  is  not  all :  the  same  idol  personifies  several 
deities,  shown  in  the  first  we  reproduce,  where  the  great  central 
figure,  having  a  woman's  head,  emerges  from  a  dragon's  jaw, 
recalling  Ouetzalcoatl ;  whilst  the  band  which  surrounds  his  loins 
consists  of  human  figures,  ranged  over  a  wreath  of  maize,  showing 
the  attributes  of  the  Tlaloc  at  Palenque,  and  also  of  Chalchi- 
uhtlicue  and  Centeotl,  the  Mexican  Ceres. 


476 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


-/?^=^i^i; 


MONOLITH    IDOL   OK   COPAN    (FROM    SIEIMIENS). 


The  dccomtivc  dcsio^ns  of  these  monuments  show  at  a  Q-lance 
their  correlation  with  the  bas-reHefs  and  monuments  introduced 
earher  in  this  work.     They  generally  consist  of  volutes,  and  the 


Peten,  Tavasal,  Tikal,  and  Copan. 


477 


head  of  a  small  monster  offered  by  one  of  the  figures  to  a  symbolic 
bird,    as    in    the   cross   at    Palenque,   and   a   similar    figure    in    the 


GUATEMALTO-TOLTEC   ALTAR   OF   COI'AN_(STEPHENS). 

Temple   of  the   Sun  ;    some  of  the  details    belong  to    Lorillard, 
whilst  others  are  like  the  wood  bas-reliefs  at  Tikal, 

But  we  will  vet  take  another  idol,  the  better  to  show  these 


OTHER   SIDE    OF   SAME    ALTAR. 


analogies.  The  figure  stands  square  instead  of  being  carved  in 
profile  ;  the  forehead,  like  that  in  the  Temple  of  the  Sun  at  Tikal, 
is  less  retreating,  whilst  the  head-dress  recalls  both  Tikal,  Yucatan, 
and  Lorillard.  The  ornaments  are  of  the  usual  type,  and  the 
petticoat  of  the  goddess  has   the  diamond  design  which  we  saw 


478  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


at  Palenque  and  in  the  Uplands.  The  sides  of  the  idol  are 
covered  with  a  series  of  characters  like  those  on  the  bas-reliefs 
at  Lorillard,  Tikal,  and  Palenque ;  the  affiliation  cannot  be 
controverted. 

Again,  let  us  take  Stephens'  interesting  altar,  6  feet  long  by 
4  feet  high.  The  top  is  divided  into  thirty-six  tablets  of  hiero- 
glyphics ;  whilst  the  sides  are  sculptured  with  human  figures  in 
profile,  seated  cross-legged  on  a  kind  of  cushion,  having  a 
turban  or  Guatemalec  head-dress,  with  the  cranial  deformation 
much  diminished,  as  in  the  idols.  These  new  types,  mixed 
with  others  familiar  to  us,  are  due  to  the  immigrant  Toltec 
tribes  who  met  after  two  centuries  of  wandering,  so  that  this 
monument  shows  both :  the  figures  being  Quiche-Toltec  or 
Guatemalto-Toltec,  whilst  the  symbolical  characters  are  pure 
Toltec ;  the  latter,  be  they  near  the  figure,  on  his  dress,  or 
his  seat,  give  the  names  and  titles  of  the  beings  they  serve  to 
decorate. 

Palacio  recognised  the  Toltec  civilisation  at  Copan,  since  in 
a  letter  to  Philip  II.  {1576),  "he  found  these  monuments  in  ruins, 
but  superior  to  any  edifice  of  the  same  nature  built  by  the  inhabi- 
tants of  these  regions."  Their  traditions  make  them  attribute 
these  edifices  to  emigrants  from  Ytuatan,  which  he  thinks 
probable,  "  because  of  the  resemblance  between  these  monuments 
and  those  he  met  in  Yucatan  and  Tabasco."  *  Consequently  we 
see  at  Copan  the  end  of  an  old  art  mixed  with  another  equally 
old,  the  combination  of  which  produces  a  new  manifestation  in 
the  American  civilisation.  It  is  idle  to  speculate  how  it  would 
have  developed  had  it  not  been  stopped  in  its  inspiration  and 
destroyed  by  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards. 


*  Bancroft   says   that   Palacio    "had   heard  of    monuments    in    Yucatan   and 
Tabasco." 


Pkten,  Ta\asal,  Tikal,  and  Coi'an. 


479 


We  follow  Veytia  in  tracing  the  migratory  movements  of 
the  Toltecs  from  the  north-west  as  far  as  Tula  :  but  from  this 
point  we  mark  their  march  towards  the  south  after  the  breaking 
up  of  their  empire.      Torquemada  mentions  a  sub-division,  which 


ALTAR    INSCRTTTION   OF   COPAN. 


fell  back  on  Huaxteca,  whilst  the  main  body  coasted  the  seaboard 
of  the  Mexican  Gulf,  building  Blasillo,  where  palaces  and  temples 
are  still  standing,  and  Comalcalco  (Centla).  Here  they  divided  ; 
some  following  the  Carmen  lagoon  entered  Yucatan  by  Patonchan, 


INSCRIPTION    OF   LORILLARD   CITY. 


of  which  the  chief  or  reigning  family  were  the  Cocomes  ;  Ake, 
Izamal,  Mayapan,  etc.,  were  built  by  this  branch. 

The  others  directed  their  march  towards  the  south  and 
founded  Palenque  and  Ocosingo,  then  falling  back  on  the 
Usumacinta,  setded  at  Lorillard  and  the  more  distant  Tikal. 
Here  took  place  the  branching  off  which  we  mentioned  above  ; 
one   division,   from  which   the  Tutulxius    were  descended,  going 


480 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


north,  founded  Nohbeccan,  Itiirbide,  Labna,  Kabah,  Uxmal, 
and  Chichen  ;  whilst  the  other  built  Coban,  Copan,  and  Ouirigua, 
where  they  met  and  amalgamated  with  the  branch  which  had 
followed  the  Pacific  coast.  The  latter,  after  they  had  traversed 
the  region  inhabited  by  the  Zapotecs  (Oaxaca),  tarried  at  Tehuan- 


Y^TZ^^ 


Z'. 


c 


STELA    01"   TIKAL   (FROM    A.  MAUDSLAV). 


tepee,  then  resumed  their  march  towards  Guatemala,  where  they 
laid  the  foundations  of  Utatlan,  Xelahu,  Atitlan,  Patinamit,  etc., 
and  joined  the  northern  branch  at  Copan. 

As  will  be  seen,  this  is  but  a  broad  outline  which  leaves  out 
a  number  of  localities  we  could  name,  and  many  others  which 
we  do  not  know,  but  which  we  hope  will  be  discovered  some  day. 


Peten,  Tayasal,  Tikal,  and  Coi'an.  481 

We  have  also  traced  in   our  map  the  return  march  of  the   Iztas 
(or  Iztaes)  from  Chichen  to  Tayasal. 

The  line  in  our  Map  which  to  the  north  goes  into  Huaxteca,  shows  the  course 
pursued  by  the  ToUec  branch  mentioned  by  Ixtlilxochitl  and  Torquemada;  and 
the  monuments  in  that  region,  which  all  bear  a  resemblance  with  those  of  Tabasco 
and  Yucatan,  are  the  works  of  the  Toltecs  just  as  much  as  those  of  the  above- 
mentioned  states.  We  wish  also  to  point  out  that  the  towns  in  this  region,  as 
yet  unexplored,  were  inhabited  and  the  monuments  standing  at  the  time  of  the 
Conquest,  and  that  a  few  years  sufficed  to  dilapidate  and  deface  them. 

Nicholas  de  Witt,  who  visited  Huaxteca  in  1543,  in  a  letter  (1554)  published 
by  Ternaux  Campan,  says  that  the  region  contained  great  cities  and  was  more 
thickly  populated  than  any  other,  but  that  when  he  visited  it,  tiveniy  years  after  the 
Conquest,  it  was  deserted  and  covered  with  ruins ;  because  some  years  before,  the 
Spaniards  had  basely  massacred  the  inhabitants.  They  had  invited  all  the  chiefs 
to  a  conference  in  a  large  wooden  house,  and  burnt  them  alive.  After  this  cruel 
act,  the  Huaxtccs  abandoned  their  iojon  and  retired  in  the  7voods. 


2    I 


INTERIOR   OF   AN    APARTMENT    IN    THE    GRAND    PALACE   OF    MITI.A-OAXACA 


CHAPTER    XXIV. 


TUMBALA.       S.    CRISTOBAL.       MITLA. 

Return  to  Tenosiqu6 — S.  Domingo  del  Palenque  Revisited — Departure  for  S. 
Cristobal — First  Halt — No  Tamenes — Setting  out  alone  for  Nopa — Bad  Roads 
— No  Food — Monkeys — Three  Days  Waiting  at  S.  Pedro — The  Cabildo — 
Hostile  Attitude  of  the  Natives — The  Porters  Arrive — They  make  off  in  the 
Night — From  S.  Pedro  to  Tumbala — Two  Nights  in  the  Forest — Tumbala — The 
Cura — Jajalun — Chilon — Citala — A  Dominican  Friar — Cankuk — Tenejapa — 
S.  Cristobal — Valley  of  Chiapas — Bullocks — Tuxtla — Santa  Lucia — Marimba 
— Tehuantepec — Totolapa — Oaxaca — Santa  Maria  del  Tule — Ruins  of  Mitla. 

There  is  positively  nothing  new  to  say  about  the  long,  wearisome 
journey  from  Co[jan  to  Tenosique  ;  it  is  the  usual  road  through 
forest,  with  no  incidents  to  mark  it  from  former  journeys,  which 
besides  we  performed  in  Stephens'  and  Maudslay's  company 
from  whom  we  borrow  both  descriptions  and  monuments.  We 
will  therefore  start  from  Tenosique,  where  our  personal  explorations 
bc;gin. 


TUMHALA.        S.     CrISTOISAL.        MiTLA.  483 


In  order  to  avoid  going  ])y  Frontcra,  which  I  had  visited 
several  times,  I  returned  to  Palenque,  crossed  the  Sierra  of 
Chiapas,  that  I  might  see  S.  Cristobal,  Tehuantepec,  and  the 
various  Indian  villages  which  are  found  along  that  road  way 
to  us. 

As  it  was  a  long  distance,  offering  many  difficulties  over  almost 
impassable  mountain  paths,  which  at  times  are  almost  perpen- 
dicular, I  dismissed  my  men  and  sent  Lucian  and  one  of  my  two 
servants  to  wait  for  us  at  Mexico,  whilst  Julian  and  I.  with  our 
arms  and  photograph  apparatus,  set  out  for  S.  Domingo  del 
Palenque,  where  I  engaged  six  m(Mi  to  convey  our  baggage  over 
the  Sierra  to  S.  Cristobal. 

I  had  been  duly  instructed  upon  the  route  I  was  to  follow- 
by  the  alcalde,  so  that  leaving  our  men  to  come  after  us,  which 
we  were  assured  would  be  done  immediately,  Julian  and  I 
mounted  our  horses,  and  we  were  soon  galloping  in  the  direction 
of  the  rancho,  which  we  reached  towards  ten  o'clock  ;  here  our 
guide  wished  to  return  to  Palenque,  but  I  required  him  to  await 
the  arrival  of  the  tamenes,  who  were  not  yet  in  sight,  and  with 
whom  I  could  not  communicate  without  his  help.  But  the  whole 
clay  passed  in  fruitless  expectations,  all  the  more  disagreeable  that 
they  had  all  the  supplies,  and  w^e  were  reduced  to  a  large  ball  of 
posole,^  not  much  for  empty  stomachs,  so  towards  evening  the 
o^uide  went  alono:  the  river's  banks  in  search  of  snails,  and  we 
had  to  content  ourselves  with  them  for  our  supper. 

The  following  day  I  sauntered  in  the  wood  to  do  something, 
and  found  a  tortoise  of  8  or  lo  inches  long,  having  its  lower  shell 
furnished  at  both  ends  with  two  appendices,  which  enabled  the 
fellow  to  shut  himself  up  and  defy  all  enemies,  a  true  snuff-box 
tortoise.      I   thought  at   first  of  keeping  it ;   but,  alas   for  human 

*  Posole  is  like   cooked  hominy  ;  it  is  mixed  in  water  and  forms  a  cool  and 
nutritious  drink. 


484 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


resolve  !  by  noon  it  was  in  the  pot  fast  turning  into  delicious 
soup. 

Two  men  who  were  returning  from  Palenque,  brought  us 
news  at  last  of  our  porters  ;  they  had  got  drunk  on  the  money 
which,  according  to  custom,  they  had  received  in  advance  from 
us,  an  affray  had  followed,  they  had  been  handed  over  to  the 
police  and  shut  up  in  jail ;  they  were,  however,  to  be  released 
on  that  very  day,  and  a  few  hours  would  bring  them  to  us. 

The  guide,  who  was  anxious  to  go  home,  exchanged  a  few 


SNUFF-BOX   TORTOISE  {Ciuosteiiioii  Leiicostomitiii) 


words  with  the  men  which  I  could  not  understand,  then  informed 
me  that  they  were  willing  to  carry  my  luggage  to  S.  Pedro,  where 
we  should  find  ample  accommodation,  plenty  of  supplies,  and  that 
it  would  be  a  better  place  to  wait  for  our  tamenes.  I  agreed,  and 
we  were  soon  winding  up  the  sierra,  which,  at  first  gradual,  soon 
became  precipitous,  obliging  us  to  throw  off  our  clothes  and  to  retain 
only  our  nether  garments,  and  even  these  we  cut  above  the  knee 
to  facilitate  our  movements.  The  men  carried  everything,  but  far 
from  finding  the  weight  i)ut  upon  them,  they  seemed  to  have  wings 
to  their  feet,  and  left   us  far  behind   to  toil   up  as   best  we  might. 


TUMBALA.        S.    CkISTOIUL.        MlTLA.  485 

At  last  wc  halted  by  the  side  of  a  stream,  where  our  much 
reduced  posolc  was  entirely  consumed  amongst  us  all.  Somewhat 
refreshed  with  the  rest  and  food,  we  resumed  our  ascent,  but 
towards  evening  the  cravings  of  the  stomach  were  again  felt,  and 
our  sluggish  legs  refused  to  carry  us  much  further.  The  porters 
had  indeed  drawn  our  attention  to  some  hoccos  hovering  among 
the  branches,  but  1  had  missed  one  at  a  few  yards'  distance,  and 
the  scarcity  of  ammunition,  the  bulk  of  which  was  w^ith  the  missing 
tamenes,  made  me  unwilling  to  venture  on  another  shot  unless 
I  was  sure  of  it. 

Poor  Julian  was  fast  losing  heart ;  fortunately  just  then  we 
heard  cries  of  monkeys  quite  near,  and  deviating  to  one  side  we 
came  upon  a  whole  tribe  of  them  perched  in  the  queerest  attitudes, 
which  our  approach  did  not  seem  to  scare  in  the  least,  giving  me 
ample  time  to  take  aim  at  a  fine  powerful  fellow  some  fifty  or 
sixty  feet  overhead,  which  I  brought  down  with  one  single  shot. 

We  had  now  reached  a  broad  expanse  of  several  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  were  only  a  few  yards  from 
the  rancho  Nopa,  built  for  the  use  of  travellers  ;  the  night  was 
drawing  near,  and  we  were  glad  to  get  some  kind  of  shelter. 
Meanwhile  the  female  monkey  had  followed  us  with  her  two 
young  ones,  uttering  the  most  lamentable  cries  ;  they  had  perched 
on  a  tree  quite  close,  and  the  mother  was  now  watching  with 
mournful  eyes  her  late  lord  being  cut  up. 

But,  alas  for  human  sympathy  !  far  from  being  touched  at 
this  mark  of  conjugal  devotion,  I  only  thought  of  the  substantial 
meal  we  should  make  after  our  long  fast,  and  that  the  animal 
was  large  enough  to  last  over  the  next  day  for  our  breakfast, 
when  with  renewed  strength  we  set  out  again,  and  after  hours 
of  w^earisome  toiling,  we  came  upon  a  large  river  not  marked  on 
the  map,  which  we  crossed  in  a  pirogue,  and  two  hours  more 
brought  us  in  view  of  S.   Pedro,  an    Indian  village  consisting  of 


486  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

about  a  hundred  huts,  scattered  over  some  of  the  hillocks  with 
which  the  plain  is  dotted.  No  admixture  of  white  blood  is  seen 
here,  and  nothing  but  Indian  is  spoken. 

I  directed  my  steps  towards  the  centre  of  the  village,  hoping 
to  find  a  hut  in  which  to  rest  our  weary  limbs  ;  but  the  first 
I  ventured  into  was  occupied  by  women,  who  shrieked  with 
terror  on  perceiving  me  and  rushed  out,  whether  at  the  arms 
I  carried,  or  because  I  was  white,  must  remain  a  mystery  to 
the  end  of  time.  Their  cries  brought  the  whole  female  population 
into  the  street  (the  men  were  at  the  milpa),  glaring  at  me  and 
scampering  away  the  moment  I  tried  to  get  near. 

My  repeated  inquiries  for  "el  Gobernador "  (the  alcalde  is 
so  styled  here),  at  last  induced  the  boldest  in  the  crowd  to 
point  to  a  large  building  to  our  right  ;  I  went  in  and  found 
some  young  girls,  clad  from  the  waist  in  a  cotton  garment, 
engaged  in  breaking  Indian  corn  on  nictates,  whilst  an  elderly 
woman  similarlv  attired  was  stirring  a  kind  of  Scotch  broth,  boilino- 
on  the  hearth,  the  smell  of  which  was  so  appetising  that  I  imme- 
diately pantomimed  to  the  old  dame  to  give  me  some,  showing  at 
the  same  time  a  shining  real  in  my  open  palm  to  help  my  eloquence. 
But  the  virago,  brandishing  her  spoon  in  my  direction,  advanced 
to  prevent  my  further  ingress,  pouring  out  a  volley  of  questions 
and  vituperations  the  while,  which,  of  course,  I  could  not 
understand,  but  which  plainly  meant  that  she  was  not  to  be 
persuaded  by  such  means,  and  that  the  sooner  I  vacated  the 
place  the  better  for  me. 

I  hesitated  what  I  should  do  ;  but,  redectinof  that  I  was  In 
the  stronghold,  with  no  better  chance  of  a  welcome  anywhere, 
I  determined  to  stand  my  ground,  and  going  into  the  yard 
I  seized  the  first  fowl  within  my  reach,  wrung  its  neck,  and 
holding  it  up  to  the  woman,  signed  to  her  to  cook  it,  presenting 
her  with  three  reals. 


TuMBALA.     S.  Cristobal.     Mitla.  487 

The  fowl  had  been  eaten,  and  I  was  fast  asleep  under  the 
verandah,  when  I  was  aroused  out  of  my  slumbers  by  the-  owners 
of  the  hut,  who  had  just  returned  from  the  fields,  and  were  now 
standinor  before  me  with  hatred  in  their  looks  and  demeanour. 
They  were  soon  joined  by  others,  and  all  signed  to  me  to  leave 
the  place  immediately  ;  I  thought  it  no  disgrace  to  yield  before 
such  numbers  and  to  go  to  the  cabildo,  "  common  room,"  filled 
already  with  natives  from  various  parts  of  the  sierra  on  their 
way  to  or  from  "las  playas."  Here  fortunately  I  found  a  meztizo 
who  spoke  Spanish  and  was  civil  enough  to  arrange  with  an  old 
couple  to  provide  me  with  some  food  twice  a  day,  and  who  pro- 
mised besides  to  hurry  on  my  tamenes  as  soon  as  he  met  them. 

Shall  I  ever  forget  the  first  night  I  spent  in  this  horrible 
cabildo,  where  all  the  abominations  which  are  inseparable  from 
barbarians  seemed  to  have  concentrated  in  it :  the  atmosphere 
was  such  as  could  be  expected  in  a  room  overflowing  with  un- 
washed, unkempt,  uncared-for  humanity,  alive  with  dirt !  Sleep 
was  of  course  out  of  the  question  ;  whilst  a  tropical  rain  precluded 
our  sleeping  in  the  open  air. 

We  had  three  days  of  this  nameless,  indescribable  horror ;  on 
the  fourth  the  tamenes  arrived  looking  rather  foolish,  displaying 
their  bruises  to  account  in  some  way  for  their  delay.  I  was  too 
thankful  to  have  some  clean  clothes  and  a  hammock  in  which 
to  sleep,  away  from  the  filth  of  the  last  days,  to  think  of  repri- 
mandino;  them,  and  I  was  so  worn-out  with  the  unrest  of  the 
preceding  nights,  that  I  slept  on  until  broad  daylight. 

When  I  opened  my  eyes,  I  saw  indeed  my  packages  arranged 
as  they  were  the  evening  before,  but  no  tamene  was  standing 
by  them.  A  horrible  suspicion  crossed  my  mind.  I  rushed  out 
followed  by  Julian  to  look  for  them,  but  ere  long  I  had  to  con- 
vince myself  that  they  had  made  off  in  the  night  to  save 
themselves  another  toilsome  journey. 


488  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

Armed  with  gun  and  revolver,  I  went  round  the  village  to 
find  other  porters,  but  my  offers  were  met  everywhere  with  jeers 
and  defiant  looks,  until  at  last,  disheartened  and  hardly  knowing 
what  to  do,  I  bethought  me  of  the  old  Indian  couple  that  had 
cooked  my  dinner  and  had  betrayed  some  signs  of  sympathy  at 
our  mishaps,  and  begged  them  to  take  care  of  my  luggage  until 
I  should  send  for  it  from  S.  Cristobal,  Then  provided  with  only 
what  I  thought  strictly  necessary  for  three  days'  march  (rugs,  water- 
proofs, shot,  a  posole  cake,  and  some  ham),  which  I  made  into  two 
bundles,  one  for  Julian  and  the  other  for  myself,  we  took  the  road 
to  Tumbala,  fervently  hoping  never  to  set  foot  in  S.  Pedro  again. 

I  cannot  say  much  for  our  first  attempts  at  turning  tamenes  : 
the  straps  supporting  our  burdens  cut  into  our  flesh,  we  advanced 
slowly  and  with  great  difficulty,  and  although  it  was  compara- 
tively cool  in  the  forest,  I  felt  hot  to  suffocation ;  we  stopped 
every  five  minutes  to  take  breath  and  ease  ourselves  of  our 
burdens,  but  after  a  while  we  got  used  to  our  new  mode  of  life, 
which  was  not  so  bad  after  all,  for  we  found  plenty  of  water  on 
the  road,  and  towards  noon  we  sat  down  by  the  side  of  a  running 
stream  to  eat  our  ham  and  posole,  when  Julian  felt  so  exhilarated 
by  his  present  comfort,  as  to  indulge  in  small  jokes  about  our 
late  sad  experiences. 

Still  holding  our  course  up  the  sierra,  at  night  we  encamped 
at  a  considerable  height,  not  far  from  a  spring,  round  which 
we  cleared  a  kind  of  green  tent,  lighted  a  good  fire,  which  we 
took  in  turns  to  keep  alive,  as  a  protection  against  moisture 
and  wild  beasts.  As  day  broke  I  heard  a  cock  crow,  showing 
that  we  were  close  to  sonie  habitation,  but  according  to  my 
calculations  we  should  reach  Tumbala  in  a  few  hours,  and  having 
enough  for  our  immediate  wants,  we  only  thought  of  pressing 
on  to  the  end  of  our  journey,  where  I  knew  we  were  expected, 
when  everything  would  be  made  right. 


TUM1',ALA.        S.     CurSTOl'.AL.       Mill, A.  489 


And  now  the  forest  was  truly  grand,  glowing  in  all  the 
splendour  of  a  tropical  vegetation  ;  some  of  the  arborescent  ferns 
rising  to  a  height  of  40  feet,  with  far-spreading  leaves,  whilst 
the  branches  of  the  stately  trees  were  gaily  festooned  with  the 
entire  family  of  orchids  and  other  flowering  parasites  of  the  most 
brilliant  hues.  Long  processions  of  arrieras  (ants),  laden  with 
bits  of  foliage  which  they  tilted  up  like  a  sail,  gave  them  the 
appearance  of  a  green  moving  belt. 

Towards  evening  we  met  an  Indian  on  his  way  home  from  "las 
playas,"  of  whom  we  bought  some  maize-bread,  and  at  night  we 
encamped  like  the  evening  before  in  the  forest.  But  a  heavy 
storm  arose  ;  the  driving  rain  and  hail  penetrated  our  waterproofs, 
drenched  our  garments,  and  threatened  to  put  out  the  hre  as  well  ; 
the  trees  were  cracking  and  falling  about  us  like  hail.  By-and-by 
the  rain  ceased,  and  we  could  hear  the  hard  breathing  of  a  jaguar 
quite  close  to  us  ;  but  the  wood,  thoroughly  saturated  with  the 
rain,  smouldered  on  without  burning  up  ;  so  that,  in  darkness 
which  could  be  felt,  I  discharged  at  random  the  contents  of 
my  revolver,  but  the  brute  kept  his  ground  until  the  first 
morning  light,  thus  preventing  our  having  any  rest. 

We  rose  with  the  lark,  and,  resuming  our  march,  came  in 
sight  of  Tumbala  towards  ten  o'clock,  having  employed  three 
days  over  forty-two  miles !  The  cura  was  out,  and  our  clothes 
soiled  with  mud,  rain,  and  adhering  brambles,  gave  us  such 
a  sorry  appearance,  that  the  housekeeper  at  first  refused  us 
admittance.  After  a  while  the  cura  returned  ;  he  was  a  man  of 
about  thirty  years  of  age,  with  a  benevolent  countenance,  full 
of  kindness  and  sympathy  over  our  hardships. 

"  Leave  the  tamenes  to  me  to  be  dealt  with  as  they  deserve 
for   their    breach    of   contract  ;    although    the    rogues    are    likely 
to   keep  away  until  they  know   you  are  out  of  the   district." 
Meanwhile   the  dinner,    to   my  deep  satisfaction,    was    placed 


490  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


on  the  table ;  I  did  ample  justice  to  the  viands,  which  were 
well  cooked  and  neady  served,  the  wine  generous  and  the 
Comitan  brandy  excellent,  but  my  late  harassing  life  had  so 
weakened  me  that  when  I  tried  to  get  up  I  could  not  steady 
myself,  so  I  went  to  lie  down,  and  slept  on  until  noon  of  the 
following  day,  when  I  felt  completely  restored  and  myself  again. 
The  priest  lent  me  some  clothes  till  mine  came,  which,  by  his 
care,  had  been  sent  for  ;  and  thus  accoutred,  I  went  about 
with   him  fully   enjoying  my  return  to  civilised  life. 

Tumbala  has  nothing  to  distinguish  it  from  other  Indian 
towns  ;  it  stands  on  one  of  the  highest  levels  of  the  Sierra  Madre, 
girt  with  a  dark  belt  of  pines  and  long  lines  of  shadowy  hills, 
stretching  away  in  the  far  distance.  The  population  numbers 
about  12,000  inhabitants,  who  live  in  the  forest  rather  than  in 
their  mud  cabins,  so  that  the  pastor  is  sometimes  three  months 
without  seeing  the  male  portion  of  his  congregation. 

A  taxation  of  six  shillings  per  head  a  year  is  the  only  act  of  sub- 
mission to  the  State  exacted  from  this  semi-barbarous  but  almost 
independent  people.  The  Governor,  generally  a  native,  collects 
the  taxes,  but  in  all  other  matters  he  is  the  humble  servant  of 
the  padre,  in  whom  are  vested  all  powers  both  civil  and  spiritual  ; 
on  the  whole  he  makes  very  good  use  of  his  immense  influence, 
in  curbing  and  directing  these  childish,  untutored,  ignorant 
people. 

Crimes  are  punished  by  jail  or  the  bastinado ;  if  the  treatment 
is  primitive,  it  suffices  in  all  cases,  which  may  well  be,  for  the 
number  of  strokes  varies  from  twelve  to  one  himdred  and  fifty. 

Whilst  I  was  here,  I  witnessed  a  curious  incident  :  one  day 
a  woman  came  to  the  cura  demanding  justice  against  her  son, 
who  had  been  wanting  in  respect  to  her.  The  son,  a  big,  tall 
fellow  of  five-and-twenty,  was  with  her  ;  both  were  the  worse  for 
drink.     The  priest   remonstrated   with   the  mother,   but   she  was 


TuMBALA.     S.   Cristobal.     Mitla.  491 

obdurate  ;  the  law  allowed  her  twelve  strokes,  and  twelve  strokes 
she  would  have.  "  Never  mind,  Sefior  Padre,  I  know  I  don't 
deserve  them,  but  she  is  my  mother,  and  since  it  pleases  her,  I 
may  well  consent  to  it."  He  got  his  twelve  strokes  "-pro  forma" 
after  which  they  fell  into  each  other's  arms  perfecdy  happy.  On 
another  occasion  two  brothers  preferred  receiving  twelve  strokes 
rather  than  make  friends. 

They  own  no  money  except  what  they  earn  as  tamenes  for 
the  whites  of  the  districts  round  about  S.  Cristobal.  They  still 
retain  the  character  of  the  old  tamenes,  who  followed  armies  and 
merchants  in  their  distant  expeditions  ;  they  begin  their  appren- 
ticeship at  eight  years  of  age,  when  they  accompany  their  elders, 
carrying,  like  ^^sop,  the  supplies  of  the  company  ;  their  load  is 
increased  from  year  to  year  until  it  sometimes  reaches  two  hundred 
pounds.  Their  avocation  Is  so  ingrained  in  their  habits,  that 
they  fancy  they  cannot  walk  unless  they  carry  some  weight,  so 
that  on  their  return  journey  they  generally  have  a  few  stones  at 
their  back. 

But  the  larger  proportion  of  their  earnings  finds  its  way  to 
the  padre  ;  for  marriages,  christenings,  confessions,  burials,  masses, 
etc.,  have  all  to  be  paid  for,  so  that  the  priest  of  Tumbala  is  not 
badly  off,  but  he  shares  with  his  bishop,  who  must  have  a  well- 
feathered  nest.  Besides  this,  the  simple  natives  give  in  kind 
of  all  they  have ;  they  are  proud  when  they  are  required  to 
repair  their  pastor's  house,  to  run  his  errands,  or  carry  him  over 
the  sierra  when  he  travels  ;  they  consult  him  in  all  things,  fully 
believing  that  the  cura  is  able  to  help  and  see  them  out  of  all 
their  troubles. 

My  luggage  arrived  at  last,  and  as  there  was  nothing  to  keep 
me  any  longer  at  Tumbala,  I  took  leave  of  the  hospitable  priest, 
amply  provided  with  food  and  letters  of  Introduction  to  all  the 
curas  along  the  road,  and  set  out  for  Jajalun,  only  a  few  hours 


492  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


distant,  on  foot,  for  the   simple  reason   that  no   horses  or  mules 
could  be  obtained. 

Jajalun  stands  on  the  declivities  of  the  Cordillera,  sloping 
down  towards  the  Pacific  ;  the  hills  are  clad  with  dark  forests  of 
pines,  whilst  fields  show  signs  of  careful  cultivation,  where  black 
beans  intervene  with  golden  harvests  of  maize.  The  population 
has  a  good  sprinkling  of  half-castes  or  meztizos,  who  speak  Spanish 
and  live  like  the  ancient  aborigines,  in  houses  built  with  mud 
coated  over  with  plaster ;  their  manners  are  those  of  the  villages 
of  the  Mexican  plateaux,  rather  than  of  the  settlements  we  have 
just  visited.  Antcdurros,  "  tapirs,"  people  the  forests  and  the 
streams. 

We  were  received  in  the  same  kind  manner  by  the  cura  as 
we  had  been  at  Tumbala,  and  having  thoroughly  rested  mind  and 
body,  we  did  not  much  mind  having  again  to  perform  our  next 
journey  on  foot.  The  road  was  good,  and  lay  across  level  ground, 
we  were  well  provided  with  all  the  necessaries  of  life,  so  that  there 
was  little  to  complain  of;  indeed,  Julian  was  so  set  up  with  the 
good  cheer  and  the  kind  attentions  of  the  women  during  the 
last  few  weeks  that,  in  his  desire  to  entertain  me,  he  sang 
nearly  all  the  way  what  was  meant  to  be  a  comic  song. 

At  Chilon  we  found  horses  which  carried  us  comfortably 
to  Citala,  where  a  Dominican  friar,  for  the  time  being  cura  of 
the  place,  received  us  in  his  house  and  entertained  us  most 
hospitably.  I  found  him  a  remarkably  agreeable,  well-bred  man, 
of  far  greater  culture  than  is  generally  the  case  with  his  brethren. 
Some  years  before  he  had  published  his  views  upon  religious 
reform,  and  this  had  brought  him  in  bad  odour  with  his  superiors. 
He  was  by  nature  of  a  sensitive,  proud  disposition,  and  he  felt 
keenly  the  slur  cast  upon  him  by  his  banishment  in  which  the 
best  years  of  liis  life  were  frittered  away,  and  his  health  under- 
mined by    the    unhealthy    climate    and   the   absence   of  all    social 


TuMBALA.     S.  Cristobal.     Mitla.  493 


intercourse.  The  d.iys  I  spent  in  the  society  of  this  genial, 
superior  man,  seemed  to  flit  by  unheeded  ;  whilst  I  was  given 
opportunities  of  noting  down  new  traits  in  the  character  of  the 
natives. 

One  day  I  happened  to  be  in  the  church,  whilst  the  friar 
was  in  his  confessional,  and,  to  my  surprise,  I  saw  him  con- 
fess two  persons  at  the  same  time,  each  speaking  loud 
enough  to  be  heard  at  some  distance.  Naturally  enough  I 
expressed  my  surprise  to  the  padre.  "Oh!  it  is  the  custom 
here  ;  they  do  not  think  anything  of  it,  and  it  not  unfrequently 
happens  that  I  confess  husband  and  wife  at  the  same  time. 
You  are  aware  that  the  seventh  commandment  is  utterly  dis- 
regarded by  these  people  ;  so  that  when  they  happen  to  confess 
together,  they  of  course  hear  of  each  other's  delinquencies,  and 
the  two  culprits  look  daggers  at  each  other  across  the  grating. 
They  are  imposed  a  penance,  which  is  always  observed,  are  both 
absolved  on  their  promise  to  go  and  sin  no  more,  and  the  couple 
return  peacefully  to  their  home.  It  was  a  confession  made  in 
the  presence  of  God,  who  has  forgiven,  therefore  the  husband 
has  nothing  to  complain  of;  but  if  he  found  out  the  backslidings 
of  his  wife  through  any  other  means,  it  would  go  hard  with  her. 
Do  not  hurry  away,"  said  the  padre,  "to-morrow  I  join  twenty 
couples  in  holy  matrimony  ;  it  is  a  saving  of  time  and  drunkenness, 
for  one  entertainment  will  do  for  all." 

I  was  much  interested  in  a  pretty  patriarchal  custom  here, 
which  consists  in  the  female  population  coming  up  every  evening 
to  kiss  their  pastor's  hand  and  ask  for  his  blessing.  I  came  in 
for  my  share,  and  had  then  the  opportunity  to  notice  that  they 
are  not  remarkable  for  good  looks  ;  and,  as  the  priest  said,  there 
is  small  merit  in  resisting  the  devil. 

We  wished  the  friar  farewell,  and  continued  our  course  to 
Cankuk  ;  where  the  kindly  "padre"  procured  some  men  to  carry 


494  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


us  some  twent^^-seven  miles  of  such  bad  road,  that  even  the 
Indians  do  not  trust  their  animals  on  it.  It  is  the  usual  mode  of 
travelling  in  this  part  of  the  sierra,  but  an  uncomfortable  feeling 
of  the  unfitness  of  things  is  experienced,  in  subjecting  a  fellow- 
creature  to  become  a  beast  of  burden  on  your  account.  However, 
the  feeling  soon  wears  off,  for  they  do  not  seem  to  mind  it  them- 
selves, and  they  handle  you  about  as  they  would  a  bale  of  cotton, 
and  have  a  disagreeable  way  of  nourishing  you  over  fathomless 
abysses,  which  I  found  so  trying  that  I  deemed  it  prudent  to 
perform  the  precipitous  descent  on  foot. 

This  gave  me  the  opportunity  of  stopping  at  my  leisure  to 
admire  the  grand  prospect  which  from  time  to  time  opened  out 
before  us  ;  the  valley  with  its  gay  confusion  of  cultivated  fields, 
and  the  houses  of  S.  Cristobal  shining  in  the  sun.  The  ancient 
capital  of  Chiapas  rises  on  a  narrow  plateau  more  than  7,000  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  with  a  population  of  some  12,000 
inhabitants  ;  its  climate  is  colder  and  damper  than  that  of  Mexico, 
and  if  we  except  the  church  of  S.  Domingo,  possesses  no  edifice 
of  interest.  The  houses  are  all  built  on  the  same  pattern,  and 
few  are  more  than  one  story  high,  with  no  outer  ornamentation 
of  any  kind.      It  looks  what  it  really  is,  a  poor,  miserable  place. 

The  market  of  S.  Cristobal  is  the  only  one  in  Mexico  where 
bacrs  of  cocoa  are  still  used  as  currency,  as  in  the  time  of 
Montezuma.  The  clergy  of  Chiapas,  formerly  so  wealthy,  has 
been  deprived,  like  that  of  M(^xico,  of  its  emoluments  and  glebe 
lands,  and  the  religious  orders  have  also  been  suppressed. 

We  next  follow  the  circuitous  road  to  Chiapas,  through  a 
wild  and  dreary  country,  intersected  by  torrents,  barrancas,  and 
precipices  of  two  or  three  thousand  feet.  We  passed  Ystapa, 
where  the;  priest  wished  to  know  if  T^rance  was  a  sea-port  like 
Vera  Cruz  ;  and  pressing  on  we  reached  the  broad  level  of 
Chiapas,  covered  with   sombre   forests,  bounded  to  the  rear  by  the 


TuMBALA.     S.  Cristobal.     Mitla.  495 

hills  of  Tuxtla,  whilst  to  the  right  and  left  the  eye  travels  over 
a  boundless  distance.  Along  the  river  which  traverses  the  jjlain, 
specks  of  white  show  where  the  town  lies. 

We  only  stopped  at  Chiapas  the  time  necessary  to  change 
horses,  and  pushed  on  to  Tuxtla,  twenty  miles  beyond,  now  the 
capital  of  the  province,  where  no  mules  could  be  hired,  and  we 
were  obliged  to  buy  horses  to  take  us  on  to  Oaxaca.  No  danger 
was  to  be  apprehended,  for  the  country  was  quiet ;  we  were, 
moreover,  fully  armed  and  provided  with  a  good  map. 

Osocantla,  our  first  stage,  exhibits  abundant  traces  of  volcanic 
action.  We  hold  our  course  across  great  rolling  plains,  dotted  with 
forests  and  patches  of  cultivation,  intersected  by  broad  rivers,  and 
pass  Santa  Lucia,  the  finest  hacienda  in  these  parts,  surrounded 
by  huts  occupied  by  the  labourers  employed  on  the  property ;  it 
possesses  a  sugar-mill,  and  a  granary  for  corn  and  maize,  whilst 
the  woods  are  peopled  with  wild  turkeys,  pheasants,  numerous  red 
aras,  green  parrots,  and  clouds  of  gaudy  butterflies,  rivalling  the 
beauty  of  the  vegetable  creation  nowhere  so  brilliant  as  here, 
where  the  river,  with  its  interminable  windings,  casts  across  this 
privileged  land  a  perpetual  green  and  variegated  mantle. 

Life  here  is  primitive  and  patriarchal  :  In  the  evening-  after 
prayers,  the  servants  come  round  to  take  their  orders  for  the 
next  day,  kiss  the  master's  hand  and  wish  him  good  night ;  then 
they  all  collect  in  the  yard  to  enjoy,  what  they  are  pleased  to  call, 
an  hour's  rest,  which  consists  in  games,  singing  and  dancing,  some 
accompanying  the  singers  on  the  iiia^^imba,  a  kind  of  piano  which 
is  played  with  small  sticks  topped  by  india-rubber  paddings,  an 
instrument  found  also  in  South  Africa,  where  it  bears  the  same 
name,  whence  in  all  probability  it  was  imported  to  America  by 
negroes  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest. 

We  resume  our  march,  and  pass  successively  Llano  Grande, 
Casa   Blanca,   S.  Pedro,  and   La  Gineta  ;  the  latter  is  one  of  the 


496  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


highest  peaks  of  the  sierra,  clad  with  forests  on  the  eastern  side, 
but  is  only  carpeted  with  grass  towards  the  Pacific.  We  toil  up 
its  lono-  winding  ascent,  but  when  we  reach  its  summit,  one  of  the 
grandest  panoramas  unfolds  before  our  enraptured  gaze.  Looking 
back  to  the  north,  which  we  have  just  left,  is  the  Cordillera, 
gradually  sloping  down  from  the  high  plateaux  of  Chiapas,  to  its 
deep,  sombre  valleys  ;  whilst  beyond  are  vast  plains,  and  in  the 
far  distance  the  Q-HmmerinQ-  lio-ht  of  the  Mexican  Gulf;  before  us, 
to  the  south,  is  the  verdant  Gineta  ;  lower  down,  the  rich  plain 
of  Tehuantepec,  bound  on  the  horizon  by  the  broad  sheet  of  the 
Pacific.  The  pass  of  the  Gineta  is  very  dangerous  in  winter, 
owing  to  the  violent  winds  which  then  prevail,  carrying  off  both 
man  and  beast. 

As  we  advance  haciendas  disappear,  and  we  find  the  sides 
of  the  roads  dotted  with  villages  as  in  Mexico.  The  population 
seems  indolent  and  inert,  content  to  pinch  or  starve  rather  than 
exert  themselves  beyond  what  they  have  been  accustomed. 
Villages  are  usually  built  near  running  streams,  in  which  women 
are  seen  the  whole  day  bathing  ;  but,  unlike  Diana,  they  do  not 
mind  being  looked  upon,  contenting  themselves  with  turning  their 
backs  upon  the  intruder. 

We  steered  our  course  safely  through  Zanatepec,  Miltepec, 
but  at  Yaltepec  we  lost  our  way,  and  wandered  about  some  time 
in  the  woods  before  we  could  find  the  main  road,  approaching 
Tehuantepec  about  nightfall,  celebrated  for  its  fair  women,  the 
handsomest  in  the  State.  They  are  cast  in  noble  proportions, 
and  have  a  dignified,  erect  carriage.  Their  dress  consists  of  a 
short  petticoat  reaching  the  ankles,  a  jacket  which  leaves  neck 
and  arms  bare  ;  a  uipil  embroidered  with  gold  and  silver  covers 
their  head,  whilst  their  small  feet  are  incased  in  dainty  little  shoes. 
Hieir  dresses  sometimes  cost  a  hundred  pounds,  a  large  sum  in 
this  part  of  the  world. 


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TEHUANTEPEC   WOMEN. 


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TuMBALA.     S.  Cristobal.     Mitla.  499 

In  Tehuantepec  arc  met  the  peculiar  people  known  as  pintos, 
"  painted,"  no  misnomer,  for  they  are  covered  with  sickly  white 
patches  extendinc^-  sometimes  over  the  whole  body.  The  effect 
of  these  patches  over  their  swarthy  skin  is  most  repulsive,  and 
gives  them  the  ghastly  appearance  of  lepers. 

There  is  little  or  nothing  to  be  said  upon  our  next  journey, 
except  that  after  S.  Juan  we  enter  once  more  the  region  of 
cactuses  in  all  their  variety,  and  arrive  at  Oaxaca  dust-travelled 
and  weary.  This  region  enjoys  a  delicious  climate,  whilst  its  soil 
is  most  productive.  Ancient  ruins  are  numerous,  but  they  are 
little  known  and  still  less  studied,  owing  probably  to  the  fact  that 
they  bear  no  resemblance  to  those  that  are  known,  and  that  no 
historians  have  mentioned  them.  Nevertheless,  I  should  ascribe 
a  Toltec  origin  to  the  very  interesting  ruins  of  Monte  Alban, 
some  miles  distant  from  the  town  of  Oaxaca,  rising  to  a  height 
of  4.930  feet,  terminating  by  a  partially  artificial  plateau,  extending 
over  one  half  square  league,  covered  with  masses  of  stones  and 
mortar,  forts,  esplanades,  narrow  subterraneous  passages,  and 
immense  sculptured  blocks.  The  arches  or  vaults  of  these 
passages  are  formed  by  large  inclined  blocks  of  stone  over- 
lapping one  another,  and  sculptured  with  human  faces  in  profile, 
resembling  the  bas-reliefs  and  figures  lately  discovered  at  Santa 
Lucia  Cosumaluapa  in  Guatemala. 

The  grandest  ruins  are  to  the  south  end  of  the  plateau,  con- 
sisting mostly  of  truncated  pyramids  about  25  feet  high,  having 
steep  sides.  Enormous  masses  of  masonry  show  where  palaces 
and  teocalli  once  stood.  The  plateau  is  covered  with  fragments 
of  lime,  very  fine  pottery,  on  which  a  brilliant  red  glazing  is 
observable.  An  Italian  explorer,  some  years  ago,  opened  some 
of  the  mounds,  and  found  necklaces  of  agate,  fragments  of  worked 
obsidian,  and  golden  ornaments  of  fine  workmanship. 

These  monuments  are  different  from  other  ruins  in  the  valley 


500  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


or  at  Mitla,  both  in  their  architecture  and  materials,  which  consist 
of  stones  laid  in  mortar,  whereas  at  Mitla,  clay  was  used  with 
large  pebbles,  faced  with  irregular  stones,  varying  in  size 
in  different  parts  of  the  walls.  The  walls  of  the  temples  were 
perpendicular,  and  the  ceilings  flat ;  whilst  at  Monte  x'\lban,  we 
have  the  bovcda,  or  overlapping  vault. 

Our  explorations  take  us  next  to  Mitla,  leaving  to  our  left  the 
fine  cemetery  called  the  Pantheon ;  we  pass  Santa  Lucia,  where 
cock-fiofhtinof  still  forms  the  chief  amusement  of  its  inhabitants, 
and  six  miles  further  we  come  in  sight  of  the  charming  settlement 
of  Santa  Maria  del  Tule,  peeping  out  from  among  groves  of 
pomegranate,  chermoias,  and  goyavias. 

In  the  open  space  fronting  the  chapel,  stands  the  old  tree 
called  Sabino,  an  object  of  great  veneration  on  the  part  of  the 
natives,  who  come  from  all  parts  of  Central  America  to  see  it. 
Its  greatest  girth  measures  14  paces  or  y^  feet,  to  the  height 
of  20  feet,  where  it  divides,  carrying  its  vigorous  branches  100 
feet  beyond.  Some  travellers  have  supposed  that  three  stems 
had  united  to  form  its  colossal  trunk,  but  I  was  unable  to  discover 
more  than  one  shoot,  and  its  vigour  is  such,  that  several  centuries 
more  may  safely  be  predicted  for  it. 

We  resume  our  march,  steerinof  towards  the  east  where  the 
valley  becomes  very  narrow  ;  we  pass  Tlacolula,  following  the 
spur  of  the  hills,  where  open  quarries  still  show  half-hewn  blocks 
left  by  the  ancient  builders  of  Mitla,  and  bearing  to  the  right 
we  reach  S.  Dionysio,  the  last  place  in  the  valley  ;  and  now 
Tatapala  is  fast  disappearing  in  our  rear,  and  bending  to  the  left 
we  approach  an  almost  uncultivated  valley  with  bare  hills,  where 
stand  the  funereal  palaces  of  Mitla.  Its  sandy  soil  supports  no 
vegetation,  save  a  few  pitahayas,  yielding  a  delicious  fruit  the  size 
of  a  swan's  egg,  having  a  strawberry  flavour. 

The  ruins  of  Mitla,  which  at  the  time  of  the  Conquest  occupied 


TUMBALA.       S.    CrISTOIJAL.       MiTLA.  5OI 


a  wide  space,  are  now  reduced  to  six  palaces  and  three  ruined 
pyramids.  In  the  square  of  the  vilhige  stands  an  oblong  edifice, 
98  feet  long  by  13  feet  wide,  faced  with  unsculptured  blocks  of 
stone,  with  only  one  opening  at  the  side. 

The  next,  in  our  general  view  of  Mida,  is  the  first  edifice 
to  the  north  on  the  slope  of  the  hill,  consisting  of  a  confusion 
of  courts,  buildincrs,  and  mosaic  work  in  relief  of  beautiful  and 
graceful  patterns.  Below  are  found  traces  of  very  primitive 
paintings,  representing  rude  figures  of  idols  and  lines  forming 
meanders,  the  meanincj  of  which  is  unknown.  The  same  rude 
paintings  are  found  throughout  the  palace  in  sheltered  places 
which  have  escaped  the  ravages  of  time.  That  such  immature 
drawings  should  be  found  in  palaces  of  beautiful  architecture, 
decorated  with  panels  of  exquisite  mosaic  work,  are  facts  which, 
at  first  sight,  make  it  difficult  to  ascribe  them  to  the  same 
people. 

I  have  called  the  first  ruin  the  cura's  house,  because  the 
venerable  man,  who  has  occupied  it  for  the  last  fifty  years,  used 
the  walls  of  the  ancient  edifice  to  build  himself  a  spacious  and 
comfortable  house.  The  church  adjoining  it  is  also  constructed 
with  the  material  taken  from  the  ancient  palace. 

Below,  to  the  left,  is  a  truncated  pyramid,  built  with  adobes, 
ascended  by  a  stone  staircase,  having  a  Christian  chapel  on  its 
summit.  The  Spaniards  cleared  it  so  completely  of  the  ancient 
temple  that  no  trace  remains.  The  great  palace,  the  walls  of 
which  are  still  entire,  consists  of  a  vast  edifice  in  the  shape  of 
a  Tau;  the  main  fa9ade  faces  south,  and  is  the  best  preserved 
of  all  the  monuments  at  Mitla,  measuring  130  feet,  with  an 
apartment  corresponding  to  it  of  the  same  dimensions,  and  six 
monolith  columns  which  supported  the  roof  now  fallen  in.  Three 
large  doorways  gave  access  to  the  apartment,  having  a  pavement 
covered  with  cement. 


;o2 


The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


Both  Torquemada  and  Clavigero,  who  wrote  of  these 
monuments  from  hearsay,  erroneously  ascribe  30  feet  and  80  feet 
respectively  to  these  columns. 

The  only  entrance  to  the  inner  court  on  the  right,  which   is 


PLAN    OF   CHIEF   PALACE   OF   MITLA. 


also  cemented,  is  through  a  dark  narrow  passage,  having  the 
walls  and  the  main  facade  covered  with  mosaic  work  in  panels, 
framed  with  stones.  The  court  is  square,  and  opens  into  four 
narrow  long  apartments  covered  from  top  to  bottom  with  mosaic 
work  in  relief,  arranged  in  varied  parallel  bands,  extending  to 
the  roof.     The   lintels  over   the  doorways  were   formed   of  huge 


TuMiiALA.     S.   Cristobal.      Mitla. 


o^o 


J 


blocks  of  stone  from    i6  feet  to  i8  feet.     We  give  a  ground  plan 
of  the  palace,  and  a  cut  of  the  great  hall  or  apartment,  together 


SECTION    OF   PRINCIPAL   HALL   OF  THE   PALACE, 


with  a  cut  of  the  same  hall  restored  by  Viollet-le-Duc,  who  says 
of  this  monument : 

"  The  three  doorways,  opening  into  the  great  apartment  with 
columns,  were  partly  walled  up  after  the  erection  of  the  building, 


o"-^'^      ''^-cs^-^ 


GREAT    HAI.L    RESTORED    (MITLA). 

but  are  plainly  visible.  Over  the  doorways  are  four  round  holes, 
into  which  were  probably  fixed  hooks  supporting  a  portiere. 
The  monuments  of  Greece  and  Rome,  in  their  best  time,  can 
alone  compare  with  the  splendour  of  this  great  edifice.  The 
ornamentation  is  arranged  with  perfect  symmetry,  the  joints  are 
carefully  cut,  the  beds  and  arris  of  the  cornices  faultless,  showing 


504  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

that  the  builders  were  masters  of  their  art.  The  hntels  in  this 
monument  consist,  Hke  those  of  Greece  and  Rome,  of  large 
blocks  of  stone  ;  the  ornamentation  is  a  series  of  varied  panels, 
set  in  elegant  frames,  composed  of  small  stones  beautifully  cut, 
arranged  in  meanders,  trellis-work,  and  diversified  in  their  com- 
binations." The  distinguished  architect  ascribes  these  monuments, 
as  also  those  of  Yucatan  and  lower  Mexico,  to  a  branch  of  the 
southern  civilisation  (Malays),  separated  from  the  parent  stock, 
and  crossed  many  times  with  whites. 

It  will  be  apparent  to  the  reader,  that  the  ruins  at  Mitla 
bear  no  resemblance  with  those  of  Mexico  or  Yucatan,  either 
in  their  ornamentation  or  mode  of  building  ;  the  interiors  have 
no  longer  the  overlapping  vault,  but  generally  consist  of  perpen- 
dicular walls,  supporting  flat  ceilings,  so  that  it  seems  almost 
inpossible  to  class  these  monuments  with  those  of  Central 
America.  Nevertheless,  there  are  details  which  recall  Toltec 
influence,  as  we  shall  show  later. 

The  second  palace  is  the  most  dilapidated  of  those  which 
are  still  standing.  The  door,  the  sculptured  lintel,  and  two  inner 
columns,  are  the  only  remains  which  serve  to  show  that  the 
same  arrangement  was  observed  here,  as  in  the  great  hall  already 
described.  The  fourth  palace  is  occupied  on  its  southern  facade, 
which  we  reproduce,  by  much  more  oblong  panels,  having  three 
human  figures  or  caryatides.  Four  other  palaces,  to  the  south, 
are  almost  level  with  the  ground,  the  walls  only  rising  3  or  4  feet 
above  it  ;  but  the  enormous  blocks  of  stone  forming  the  base- 
ment, give  them  a  massive  appearance  which  is  not  observable 
in  the  palaces  that  are  still  standing. 

The  natives  make  use  of  them  as  dwelling-places.  Subter- 
raneous passages,  which  were  o[;ened  some  years  ago,  extend 
under  these  ruins  ;  but  the  hostile  attitude  of  the  Indians  caused 
them     to     be    closed    up     again    Ijefore     they    could    be    properly 


TuMBALA.     S.  Cristobal.     Mitla.  507 

explored.  The  ruins  arc  fast  falling  into  decay,  hastened  by  the 
natives  who  resort  hither  from  all  parts,  and  in  their  ignorance 
take  awav  the  small  stones  formincf  the  mosaic  work,  with  the 
idea  that  they  will  turn  into  gold.  The  local  government  could 
easily  stop  such  Vandalism,  but  it  does  not  seem  to  care. 

We  do  not  know  the  precise  date  of  these  monuments,  except 
that  they  had  long  been  in  a  state  of  ruin  at  the  time  of  the 
Conquest,  and  Orozco  y  Berra""  thinks  that  they  were  de- 
stroyed some  time  between  1490- 1500,  in  the  fierce  contests 
between  the  Zapotecs  and  the  invading  Aztecs,  a  fact  which 
would  make  them  but  little  older  than  those  we  have  described 
in  the  course  of  this  work. 

If  there  seems  but  little  resemblance  in  the  general  outline 
between  these  monuments  and  those  of  the  Toltecs  or  Mexicans, 
it  must  be  evident  to  any  one  that  some  of  the  details,  such  as 
the  masks  and  the  small  terra-cotta  figures,  are  exactly  like  those 
at  Teotihuacan  ;  whilst  the  small  crosses  on  the  panels  of  the 
great  palace,  and  those  on  the  facade  of  the  fourth,  are  facsimiles 
of  those  on  the  priest  of  Ouetzalcoatl  at  Lorillard— assuredly  a 
most  important  analogy,  t 

Torquemada  ascribes  a  Toltec  origin  to  these  monuments,  for 
he  says  :  "  i\fter  Ouetzalcoatl  had  established  himself  at  Cholula, 
in  order  to  carry  on  there  his  work  of  civilisation,  he  built  the 
celebrated  palaces  of  Mitla." 

According  to  Burgoa,j  Ouetzalcoatl  was  worshipped  at 
Acihuitla ;  and  in  the  great  sanctuary  of  that  town  was  an  idol 
called  the  "  Heart  of  the  people.  It  consisted  of  a  large 
emerald  the  size  of  a  Chili  pepper,  surmounted  by  a  sculptured 


*  Orozco  y  Berra,  "Historia  de  la  Conquista  de  Mejico,"  vol.  ii.  p.  377. 

t  Torquemada,  "  Monarquia  Indiana,"  lib.  ni.  cap.  iii. 

X  Burgoa,  "Description  Geographique,"  chaps,  xxviii.,  xxxix.,  and  liii. 


5o8  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 

bird  of  exquisite  workmanship,  wreathed  by  a  serpent.  It  was 
a  gem  of  great  antiquity,  and  so  transparent  that  it  shone  like 
a  flame ;  but  the  origin  of  the  cult  which  surrounded  it  was 
forgotten."  Orozco  y  Berra  thinks  that  the  snake  represented 
Quetzalcoatl,  and  was  a  Toltec  reminiscence. 

The  Zapotecs  and  Miztecs  beheved  themselves  autochthones  ; 
they  were  ignorant  of  their  origin,  and  had  preserved  no  record 
of  the  time  when  they  established  themselves  in  the  country 
of  which  Teozapotlan  was  the  capital.  The  original  name  of 
Mitla  seems  to  have  been  Liobaa  or  Yobaa,  "the  place  of  tombs," 
called  by  the  Aztecs  Midlan,  or  Mitla,  place  of  sadness,  hell, 
dwelling  of  the  dead,  a  holy  place  devoted  to  the  burial  of  the 
kings  of  Teozapotlan.* 

The  edifices  consisted  of  four  upper  apartments  finely 
sculptured,  corresponding  to  an  equal  number  in  the  lower  or 
ground  story.  The  upper  story  was  divided  between  the  high 
priest,  whose  apartment  was  the  best  furnished  of  all,  the  king, 
who  retired  here  on  the  death  of  a  relation,  his  retinue,  and  the 
levites.  In  the  lower  story,  the  sanctuary  formed  the  central 
apartment,  having  a  large  slab  which  served  as  an  altar,  on 
which  were  placed  the  images  of  the  various  deities  ;  the  side 
apartments  were  devoted  one  for  the  king's  burial,  the  other 
for  the  priests  ;  the  fourth,  which  is  supposed  to  have  been  the 
largest,  extended  far  out  under  ground,  and  was  supported  by 
columns  like  those  of  the  main  upper  apartment  or  hall,  having 
an  entrance  which  was  closed  by  a  large  slab.  In  this  vast 
enclosure  were  thrown  the  bodies  of  the  victims  and  the  military 
chiefs  who  had  died  in  battle.  Besides  these,  there  were  those 
who  consecrated  themselves  to  the  gods,  when  they  were  led 
to  the  mouth  of  this  necropolis  by  a  priest,  the  slab  was  raised, 


*  Burgoa,  "  Description  Gcographicjue,"  chap.  Iviii. 


i^h 


TuMi'.ALA.     S.   Cristohal.     Mitla. 


511 


and  the  self-devoted  victim  suffered  to  pass  out  in  the  abode 
of  the  dead. 

^•'  *.The  high  priest  was  called  ''  Huiyatoo,'  the  great  sentinel, 
he  who  sees  all  ;  his  power,  which  was  absolute,  was  even  greater 
than   the   king's.     No  person  of  low  degree  could  see  his  face 


SOUTH   SIDE  OF   FOURTH   PALACE   OF   MITLA. 


and  live.      He  was  the  sole  mediator  between  man  and  the  gods  ; 
from  him  tlowed  all  good  gifts,  both  temporal  and  spiritual.* 

It  is  probable  that  Burgoa  never  visited  Mitla,  for  he  only 
mentions  one  palace,  whereas  eight  were  still  standing  in  his 
time.  It  seems  strange  that  the  Mexican  Government  should 
not  undertake  the  exploration  of  these  ruins,  which,  as  they  were 


*  Burgoa,  "Description  Geographique." 


512  The  Ancient  Cities  of  the  New  World. 


the  burial  place  of  kings  and  priests,  must  contain  costly  robes, 
jewels,  arms,  etc.,  perhaps  even  manuscripts  that  would  be  most 
valuable  for  a  comparative  history  of  the  Zapotecs  and  Aztecs. 
This  is  all  the  more  to  be  regretted,  that  there  is  a  stir  in  the 
learned  world  respecting  American  ruins  and  American  antiquities. 

"In  a  word,"  says  Orozco,  "great  divergence  is  found 
between  the  Zapotec  and  Toltec  civilisation ;  they  seem  to 
spring  from  a  common  source,  their  calendar  is  the  same,  and 
their  writing  nearly  so  ;  both  had  made  great  progress  in  archi- 
tecture and  ceramic  art.  But  these  differences,  seemingly  slight, 
deepen  with  a  maturer  study  :  although  based  on  the  same  prin- 
ciples, Zapotec  writing  has  different  characters,  and  objects  assume 
other  conventional  forms ;  colours  are  more  glaring,  and  at  a 
first  glance  it  is  impossible  to  confound  a  Miztec  with  a  Toltec, 
Acolhuan,  or  Mexican  manuscript."* 

To  conclude,  although  we  have  visited  the  ruins  of  Mitla 
more  than  once,  we  have  not  made  so  careful  a  study  of  them, 
as  of  those  in  Yucatan  and  Central  America ;  nevertheless  it 
has  been  shown  that  both  Torquemada  and  Orozco  see  a  Toltec 
influence  in  these  monuments. 


Orozco,  "  Hist.  Antigua  de  la  Conquista  de  Mejico,"  tome  ii.  part  n.  chap.  iv. 


the  end. 


CHARLES   DICKENS   AND    EVANS,    CRYSTAL    I'ALACE   PRESS. 


NOTES. 


Page  269. — Henequen. — Annual  fires  are  run  over  the  country  to  clear  the 
ground  for  the  labourers,  who  then  dig  holes  in  the  rocky  soil  and  set  out  the 
henequen  plants.  When  of  sufficient  size,  the  leaves  are  cut  and  carried  to  the 
"  scrai)ing  machine,"  which  consists  of  a  large  fly-wheel,  with  strong,  blunt  knives 
carried  around  on  the  rapidly  revolving  wheel.  The  leaves  are  pressed  by  means 
of  a  curved  lever,  in  such  a  way  that  the  pulpy  portion  is  scraped  off,  leaving  the 
fibre.  The  men  feed  the  machine  with  astonishing  rapidity,  pressing  the  leaf 
between  the  knives  and  lever  with  a  motion  of  the  leg. 

Page  284. — Ijidians. — The  great  uprising  of  the  Indians  began  in  182 1,  when 
Mexico  separated  from  Spain.  The  large  landed  proprietors  were  everywhere 
opposed  to  separation  from  the  mother  country,  whilst  the  bulk  of  the  people,  who 
owned  no  property,  were  in  favour  of  it.  Later  the  country  was  divided  in  two 
parties,  in  which  one  wished  for  an  amalgamation  with  Mexico,  whilst  the  other 
was  against  it.  The  aborigines  cast  in  their  lot  with  the  latter,  receiving  arms  and 
promises  of  independence.  After  the  struggle  was  over  and  the  Mexicans  expelled, 
the  Indians  were  dismissed  to  their  homes,  and  the  promises  made  to  them  were 
not  kept. 

In  1S46  the  Indians  saw  their  opportunity;  they  swept  the  eastern  coast  with 
fire  and  sword,  and  ravaged  the  country  throughout.  At  last  Mexico,  having  con- 
cluded peace  with  the  United  States,  sent  an  army,  and  the  rebels  were  very  slowly 
driven  back.  But  it  was  years  ere  peace  was  restored,  and  even  now  a.nnual  risings 
take  place,  whilst  thousands  of  square  miles  are  desolate,  and  hundreds  of  towns 
lie  in  ruins. 

By  calling  in  the  aid  of  Mexico,  Yucatan  lost  her  autonomy,  and  became  one  of 

the  Confederate  States  of  the  Republic. 

2  L 


514  Notes. 

Page  296. — Stephens  ("Incidents  and  Travels  in  Yucatan,"  vol.  ii.  p.  441) 
says  of  the  third  monument,  known  as  the  Palacio— palace— the  ascent  is  on  the 
south  side  by  an  immense  staircase,  137  feet  wide,  forming  an  approach  of  rude 
grandeur,  each  step  4  feet  5  inches  long,  and  i  foot  5  inches  in  height. 

Page  427. — It  is  urged  that  Yalchilan  should  be  written  either  A'alchilan  or 
Jalchilan,  x  and  J  being  convertible  letters  having  a  strong  aspirate;  but  as 
doctors  are  not  agreed,  the  name  is  suffered  to  stand  as  in  the  text. 


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